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  #1   Report Post  
John B
 
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Default Gas Range smelly gas problem.

You're not telling us much. Does the gas leak all the time, or just when
you try to turn on the oven?
Your situation could be dangerous. Don't trivialize this.
"Russell" wrote in message
...

I'm a long way from a repair guy, they charge 2 hours travel time.
I have a gas leak in the oven.
I know the igniter is bad because it takes a long time to light the oven,

but do
igniters leak gas
I was told there is a valve in the oven as well that might be leaking.
The stove is a Magic Chef in great shape but at least 12 years old.
I would replace the igniter if I was pretty sure it was the cause of the

leak.
If I have to replace the valve as well I would probably replace the stove.
I never use the broiler. Is it possible to use the broiler igniter in the

oven?

Thanks for any pointers guys.



  #2   Report Post  
David Martel
 
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Default

Russell,

You have a continuous, dangerous situation. Turn off the gas at the main
valve and call a qualified gas plumber or stove repairman. If you use gas
for heating then move the family to a motel until this is fixed and hope
that your pipes don't freeze before it is repaired.

Good luck,
Dave M.


  #3   Report Post  
Joseph Meehan
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Russell wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 08:51:44 -0800, "John B" wrote:

You're not telling us much. Does the gas leak all the time, or just
when you try to turn on the oven?


All the time. In fact, according to neighbors, the previous owners
used it like that for years.


I would consider this a serious situation. I don't believe there is any
way the igniter could be causing a leak. It should not take a pro long to
discover and fix the leak. He should also be able to fix the slow start
issue.


Your situation could be dangerous. Don't trivialize this.
"Russell" wrote in message
...

I'm a long way from a repair guy, they charge 2 hours travel time.
I have a gas leak in the oven.
I know the igniter is bad because it takes a long time to light the
oven, but do igniters leak gas
I was told there is a valve in the oven as well that might be
leaking. The stove is a Magic Chef in great shape but at least 12
years old.
I would replace the igniter if I was pretty sure it was the cause
of the leak. If I have to replace the valve as well I would
probably replace the stove. I never use the broiler. Is it possible
to use the broiler igniter in the oven?

Thanks for any pointers guys.


--
Joseph Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math


  #4   Report Post  
Ed
 
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Default

An ignitor can't leak, it doesn't carry any gas.

A weak ignitor can cause a gas odor but only when you're trying to use the
oven.
It the odor is continuous and shutting off the gas valve behind the stove
stops it then your problem is most likely between that shut-off valve and
the stove. It's almost always the plumbing but you could have a leak within
the stove itself. It can also be the shut-off valve itself when it's in the
open position.

"Russell" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 17:08:43 GMT, "David Martel"
wrote:

Russell,

You have a continuous, dangerous situation.


There is no gas leak now and hasn't been for weeks.
The valve behind the stove is off.

I'm a bachelor and don't require the stove that much.
I have a full size microwave/convention oven.

Turn off the gas at the main


Why? There is a valve behind the stove already off.

valve and call a qualified gas plumber or stove repairman.


No, travel time is charged at $120 on top of labor.
And he will also charge me for the igniter EVEN if it doesn't fix the
leak.

I can replace the igniter, no problem, but if that is not the cause of the
leak
then I'm out a $120 part.
I need to know if an igniter can leak, or will I likely have to replace
both the
igniter and the valve in the oven.
If an igniter can leak then I'll order one and install it.
If both then I'll replace the stove.

If you use gas
for heating then move the family to a motel until this is fixed and hope
that your pipes don't freeze before it is repaired.

Good luck,
Dave M.




  #5   Report Post  
John B
 
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Default

Just go buy a new gas range/oven or whatever. If you've got a drop-in
range, then you have a big problem, like my family has, in that it seems to
be irreplaceable. But at $120 per hour, you will have paid for a new oven,
delivered and installed, very quickly.
Any chance this is the landlord's problem?
"Russell" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 17:08:43 GMT, "David Martel"

wrote:

Russell,

You have a continuous, dangerous situation.


There is no gas leak now and hasn't been for weeks.
The valve behind the stove is off.

I'm a bachelor and don't require the stove that much.
I have a full size microwave/convention oven.

Turn off the gas at the main


Why? There is a valve behind the stove already off.

valve and call a qualified gas plumber or stove repairman.


No, travel time is charged at $120 on top of labor.
And he will also charge me for the igniter EVEN if it doesn't fix the

leak.

I can replace the igniter, no problem, but if that is not the cause of the

leak
then I'm out a $120 part.
I need to know if an igniter can leak, or will I likely have to replace

both the
igniter and the valve in the oven.
If an igniter can leak then I'll order one and install it.
If both then I'll replace the stove.

If you use gas
for heating then move the family to a motel until this is fixed and hope
that your pipes don't freeze before it is repaired.

Good luck,
Dave M.






  #6   Report Post  
John B
 
Posts: n/a
Default

You are not qualified to repair that oven yourself. And if you have an
electronic igniter problem, they are expensive to replace anyway.
"Russell" wrote in message
...

I'm a long way from a repair guy, they charge 2 hours travel time.
I have a gas leak in the oven.
I know the igniter is bad because it takes a long time to light the oven,

but do
igniters leak gas

Does this thing have an igniter, or just a pilot light?



  #7   Report Post  
David Martel
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Russell,

If it's going to cost $120 in travel, plus parts, plus labor to fix the
leak and replace the faulty igniter plus any other problems the guy notices
during his visit then a new stove may make sense economically.
You can determine if the broiler igniter can be used in the oven by
looking up the part numbers on an on-line appliance parts web-site. Same
part number indicates interchangeability. This will not fix the leak. You
can hunt for the leak by using soapy water on all the joints and valves. I
really think you should replace the stove or have a pro out. It sounds as if
you've been using your stove while it is leaking gas. This may not be a good
idea. I urge you strongly not to continue this practice.
Have you thought about taking the stove into the shop rather than having
the guy come out?

Dave M.


  #8   Report Post  
John B
 
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Default

So hire a hauler, equipped with truck and big muscles, and have him take
your old oven to a repair guy. Reserve the right to dispose of the oven, if
the cost of repairs is not sensible.
Are you in a high-rise in New York City?? $120/hour? Can't you shop better
than that?
You are not qualified to fix this oven, personally.

"Russell" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 11:18:43 -0800, "John B" wrote:

Just go buy a new gas range/oven or whatever. If you've got a drop-in
range, then you have a big problem, like my family has, in that it seems

to
be irreplaceable. But at $120 per hour, you will have paid for a new

oven,
delivered and installed, very quickly.
Any chance this is the landlord's problem?


Only if I sell the place.

I can haul it into town for a once over in a shop for free but it is a

heavy
slug.
The $120 is for TWO hours of travel time, if the tech has to come to me.
I know I need an igniter, but I'm not going to buy one if I also need the

valve
in the oven.
Together they are too costly.
A new stove is $800 plus.


"Russell" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 17:08:43 GMT, "David Martel"


wrote:

Russell,

You have a continuous, dangerous situation.

There is no gas leak now and hasn't been for weeks.
The valve behind the stove is off.

I'm a bachelor and don't require the stove that much.
I have a full size microwave/convention oven.

Turn off the gas at the main

Why? There is a valve behind the stove already off.

valve and call a qualified gas plumber or stove repairman.

No, travel time is charged at $120 on top of labor.
And he will also charge me for the igniter EVEN if it doesn't fix the

leak.

I can replace the igniter, no problem, but if that is not the cause of

the
leak
then I'm out a $120 part.
I need to know if an igniter can leak, or will I likely have to replace

both the
igniter and the valve in the oven.
If an igniter can leak then I'll order one and install it.
If both then I'll replace the stove.

If you use gas
for heating then move the family to a motel until this is fixed and

hope
that your pipes don't freeze before it is repaired.

Good luck,
Dave M.






  #9   Report Post  
John B
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I recently replaced an electronic igniter in a forced-air furnace. It cost
me about $150 for the materials.

"Russell" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 11:21:10 -0800, "John B" wrote:

You are not qualified to repair that oven yourself. And if you have an
electronic igniter problem, they are expensive to replace anyway.


I've installed igniters in the past. It's not that big a deal.

I installed a 30 foot gas line for my barbecue in my last place.
Inspector said I did a perfect job.


"Russell" wrote in message
.. .

I'm a long way from a repair guy, they charge 2 hours travel time.
I have a gas leak in the oven.
I know the igniter is bad because it takes a long time to light the

oven,
but do
igniters leak gas

Does this thing have an igniter, or just a pilot light?





  #10   Report Post  
Ed
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Russell" wrote

I can haul it into town for a once over in a shop for free but it is a
heavy
slug.
The $120 is for TWO hours of travel time, if the tech has to come to me.
I know I need an igniter, but I'm not going to buy one if I also need the
valve
in the oven.
Together they are too costly.
A new stove is $800 plus.


If you don't use it much, don't spend too much.
Sear's has two standard clean models for $300
8 more for $400 or less.
Self clean models are $600 and up.




  #11   Report Post  
John B
 
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Default

Bought the place?
And how long has this been?
Doesn't your buyer-protection insurance cover your appliance
repair/replacement costs for at least a year?
"Russell" wrote

Not true at all.
Stove has been off since 3 days after I bought the place.



  #12   Report Post  
John Harlow
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thanks for any pointers guys.

Get a new friggin stove, why don't you? Yours is obviously defective and
you seem to cheap to have it fixed properly.


  #13   Report Post  
John B
 
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Default

Their inability to smell the gas is irrelevant. And so is their status as
nice old people. They sold you a defect, and they should make good on it,
unless you waived your rights.
This can be done politely. It happens all the time.

"Russell" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 12:00:55 -0800, "John B" wrote:

Bought the place?
And how long has this been?
Doesn't your buyer-protection insurance cover your appliance
repair/replacement costs for at least a year?


No. Private deal.
And I happen to like the old folks who sold me the place.
They couldn't smell the leak, neither could I until the place was closed

up
empty for two weeks before I moved in.
Coming into the place empty the gas smell was obvious, but you had to have

a
good nose. My dad couldn't smell it either.



  #14   Report Post  
Goedjn
 
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The $120 is for TWO hours of travel time, if the tech has to come to me.
I know I need an igniter, but I'm not going to buy one if I also need the valve
in the oven.
Together they are too costly.
A new stove is $800 plus.


A used stove is $300 minus If you're going to be a tightwad, be
consistant about it.
  #15   Report Post  
Stormin Mormon
 
Posts: n/a
Default

It's my understanding that an igniter is something th at works after the gas
valve is open -- ignites the gas.

Makes me wonder if one of the pilot lights has blown out. I'd suggest you
look under the range drip pans, and also under the bottom pan of the oven.

I've got an old range and oven, sometimes one of the two pilots for the
range blows out. I've got to lift the cooktop, and touch a match or lighter
to it, to get it relit.

I'm not there to beep it, but that's my first guess. Gas smell is never a
good thing -- needs to be fixed promply somehow. If it isn't a pilot out,
might be a leaky connection some where. Then, you might consider calling an
appliance guy who has a gas detector beeper to find the leak.

Let us know how it works out.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Russell" wrote in message
...

I'm a long way from a repair guy, they charge 2 hours travel time.
I have a gas leak in the oven.
I know the igniter is bad because it takes a long time to light the oven,
but do
igniters leak gas
I was told there is a valve in the oven as well that might be leaking.
The stove is a Magic Chef in great shape but at least 12 years old.
I would replace the igniter if I was pretty sure it was the cause of the
leak.
If I have to replace the valve as well I would probably replace the stove.
I never use the broiler. Is it possible to use the broiler igniter in the
oven?

Thanks for any pointers guys.




  #16   Report Post  
DOUGLAS
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Russell" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 17:55:54 -0500, Goedjn wrote:


The $120 is for TWO hours of travel time, if the tech has to come to me.
I know I need an igniter, but I'm not going to buy one if I also need the
valve
in the oven.
Together they are too costly.
A new stove is $800 plus.


A used stove is $300 minus If you're going to be a tightwad, be
consistant about it.


Another village idiot. Is this group have a competition?

There isn't a used gas range for sale within 150 miles of me. I checked.
In fact only ONE place within 150 miles of me sells them at all, IF they
get
them.



You can easily check for gas leaks in that stove by coating every connection
with soapy water and watch for bubbles.
Use a paint brush and start at the the shutoff valve, temporarily turning it
on. Then go to each connection in turn, including the flex hose connectors,
the regulator fittings, the burner valves, etc.
It's easy and safe.

After all the wild advise you've been getting, you may simply find that you
a a small gas leak in one of the fittings.

Doug



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