[Ewald Böhm]

I use the bar oil from Lowes, which is thick and syrupy, but I can't help
but think that thinner 30 weight motor oil should work.

I realize the motor oil might get flung off, but so does bar oil if you
ask me.

Anyway, has anyone ever RUINED a chainsaw by substituting motor oil for
bar oil, or is it just not something you've risked testing?

[Ralph Mowery]

The main reason for 'chain saw oil' is it is biodegradeable.

Some saws recommend 30 weight motor oil.

I bought an electric pole chain saw a few months ago and it recoomends 30
wt. motor oil.


"Ewald Böhm" wrote in message
...
I use the bar oil from Lowes, which is thick and syrupy, but I can't help
but think that thinner 30 weight motor oil should work.

I realize the motor oil might get flung off, but so does bar oil if you
ask me.

Anyway, has anyone ever RUINED a chainsaw by substituting motor oil for
bar oil, or is it just not something you've risked testing?

[Ewald Böhm]

On Wed, 16 Sep 2015 23:07:47 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:

The main reason for 'chain saw oil' is it is biodegradeable.

That's unexpected!

Really?

[[email protected]]

On Thu, 17 Sep 2015 04:40:40 +0000 (UTC), Ewald Böhm
wrote:

On Wed, 16 Sep 2015 23:07:47 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:

The main reason for 'chain saw oil' is it is biodegradeable.

That's unexpected!

Really?

SOME chain saw oil is biodegradable but far from all. The eco friendly
oil is basically canola or some other vegetable oil. It is more
expensive but it seems to work about the same without putting an oil
slick on ponds and rivers when you are cutting trees there..

[gregz]

Ewald Böhm wrote:
I use the bar oil from Lowes, which is thick and syrupy, but I can't help
but think that thinner 30 weight motor oil should work.

I realize the motor oil might get flung off, but so does bar oil if you
ask me.

Anyway, has anyone ever RUINED a chainsaw by substituting motor oil for
bar oil, or is it just not something you've risked testing?

I usually make sure oil is getting flung off to make sure it's flowing.
Always used bar oil.

Greg

[harry k]

On Wednesday, September 16, 2015 at 7:32:26 PM UTC-7, Ewald Böhm wrote:
I use the bar oil from Lowes, which is thick and syrupy, but I can't help
but think that thinner 30 weight motor oil should work.

I realize the motor oil might get flung off, but so does bar oil if you
ask me.

Anyway, has anyone ever RUINED a chainsaw by substituting motor oil for
bar oil, or is it just not something you've risked testing?

The only real difference between motor oil and bar oil is the addition of 'tacky stuff' to help it stick to the chain...and yes, it does sling off. Back in the day (and that was some 70 years ago) the professionals used motor oil, most times used motor oil. Of course that was back when chain saws were all gear drive and the chain didn't move at warp speed.


Harry K

[Stormin Mormon[_10_]]

On 9/16/2015 10:32 PM, Ewald Böhm wrote:
I use the bar oil from Lowes, which is thick and syrupy, but I can't help
but think that thinner 30 weight motor oil should work.

I realize the motor oil might get flung off, but so does bar oil if you
ask me.

Anyway, has anyone ever RUINED a chainsaw by substituting motor oil for
bar oil, or is it just not something you've risked testing?


A couple decades ago, a friend of mine mentioned
a neighbor who saved a lot of money by using used
crank case motor oil in his chainsaw bar. However,
he wore out bars and chains more rapidly, and that
took all the fun out of it. As to new oil, I'm not
sure.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

[Ralph Mowery]

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...

A couple decades ago, a friend of mine mentioned
a neighbor who saved a lot of money by using used
crank case motor oil in his chainsaw bar. However,
he wore out bars and chains more rapidly, and that
took all the fun out of it. As to new oil, I'm not
sure.

The used oil is already worn out and also full of bits of metal. That
equates to not much lube and lots of abrasive material.

Used oil of any kind should not be used with maybe the exception of some
that is used for cooling such as out of a large transformer.

[Bob_Villa]

On Thursday, September 17, 2015 at 8:57:48 AM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:

The used oil is already worn out and also full of bits of metal. That
equates to not much lube and lots of abrasive material.

Oil change (hopefully) is done before the oil is worn out. And the filter removes the bits...but I would *stick* with bar oil too.

[Oren[_2_]]

On Thu, 17 Sep 2015 01:07:40 -0400, wrote:

SOME chain saw oil is biodegradable but far from all. The eco friendly
oil is basically canola or some other vegetable oil. It is more
expensive but it seems to work about the same without putting an oil
slick on ponds and rivers when you are cutting trees there..

Would used cooking oil work, given it is strained through a cloth?

[harry k]

On Wednesday, September 16, 2015 at 7:32:26 PM UTC-7, Ewald Böhm wrote:
I use the bar oil from Lowes, which is thick and syrupy, but I can't help
but think that thinner 30 weight motor oil should work.

I realize the motor oil might get flung off, but so does bar oil if you
ask me.

Anyway, has anyone ever RUINED a chainsaw by substituting motor oil for
bar oil, or is it just not something you've risked testing?

Why not use bar/chain oil? Face it, none of us cut that much wood so the expense is not a bank buster. I do up to 10 cord/yr and stick with bar/chain oil.

Harry K

[dpb]

On 09/16/2015 9:32 PM, Ewald Böhm wrote:
I use the bar oil from Lowes, which is thick and syrupy, but I can't help
but think that thinner 30 weight motor oil should work.

I realize the motor oil might get flung off, but so does bar oil if you
ask me.

Anyway, has anyone ever RUINED a chainsaw by substituting motor oil for
bar oil, or is it just not something you've risked testing?

Saw vendors generally recommend SAE30/20 for summer/winter as acceptable
if specific bar oil isn't available.

I've used the old tractor oil (5W40 CF+) with an addition of about 1:4
to 1:6 STP or the like as a "sticky-ifier" for 20 yr or more. Seems
just fine.

I do filter the oil through paper filter when storing and let set and
decant the top for use to minimize any particulates.

I have (and do on occasion still) buy/use a commercial bar oil if happen
to run across a buy, but when a tractor change (on 100-hr intervals on
some) is 18 qt or more, seems a real waste for such low pressure usage
to just toss it...

--

[Oren[_2_]]

On Thu, 17 Sep 2015 07:31:16 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

A couple decades ago, a friend of mine mentioned
a neighbor who saved a lot of money by using used
crank case motor oil in his chainsaw bar. However,
he wore out bars and chains more rapidly, and that
took all the fun out of it.

Yeah. That oil may have metal shavings and dirt grit in it. Eats the
chain up. Rub the oil twixt yer fangers to test it

[Stormin Mormon[_10_]]

On 9/17/2015 4:45 PM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 17 Sep 2015 07:31:16 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

A couple decades ago, a friend of mine mentioned
a neighbor who saved a lot of money by using used
crank case motor oil in his chainsaw bar. However,
he wore out bars and chains more rapidly, and that
took all the fun out of it.

Yeah. That oil may have metal shavings and dirt grit in it. Eats the
chain up. Rub the oil twixt yer fangers to test it


Six sharp shavings slits six thick thumbs.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

[Ewald Böhm]

On Thu, 17 Sep 2015 10:50:06 -0700, Harry K wrote:

Why not use bar/chain oil? Face it, none of us cut that much wood so
the expense is not a bank buster. I do up to 10 cord/yr and stick with
bar/chain oil.

In a pinch, I want to know my options.

[Ewald Böhm]

On Thu, 17 Sep 2015 13:27:02 -0500, dpb wrote:

I do filter the oil through paper filter when storing and let set and
decant the top for use to minimize any particulates.

I am amazed at the number of folks utilizing "used" motor oil.
If used oil works, I'm sure the new stuff I was contemplating will work.

[Terry Coombs[_2_]]

Ewald Böhm wrote:
On Thu, 17 Sep 2015 10:50:06 -0700, Harry K wrote:

Why not use bar/chain oil? Face it, none of us cut that much wood so
the expense is not a bank buster. I do up to 10 cord/yr and stick
with bar/chain oil.

In a pinch, I want to know my options.

In a pinch almost any oil will do . I don't cut as much wood as Harry ,
but I do a few cords a year and I use chain oil . Cheaper than replacing
worn out bars and stretched chains . TIP: a sharp chain will run cooler ,
stretch less , and last longer in addition to cutting faster . If I touch
rock or something I put that saw away until I have time to check it out -
that's why all 3 saws go out with me when I'm cutting .

--
Snag

[[email protected]]

On Thu, 17 Sep 2015 20:16:26 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Ewald Böhm wrote:
On Thu, 17 Sep 2015 10:50:06 -0700, Harry K wrote:

Why not use bar/chain oil? Face it, none of us cut that much wood so
the expense is not a bank buster. I do up to 10 cord/yr and stick
with bar/chain oil.

In a pinch, I want to know my options.

In a pinch almost any oil will do . I don't cut as much wood as Harry ,
but I do a few cords a year and I use chain oil . Cheaper than replacing
worn out bars and stretched chains . TIP: a sharp chain will run cooler ,
stretch less , and last longer in addition to cutting faster . If I touch
rock or something I put that saw away until I have time to check it out -
that's why all 3 saws go out with me when I'm cutting .

A battery operated Dremel tool with the chain saw stone in it is a
must if you go out in the woods with your saw.
You can sharpen a chain that was in the sand in a couple minutes.

[Ralph Mowery]

"Ewald Böhm" wrote in message
...
In a pinch, I want to know my options.



Try reading the manual. Stihl recommends 10 to 30 wt. oil depending on the
temperature if not using regular bar oil.

[Ewald Böhm]

On Thu, 17 Sep 2015 22:28:04 -0400, gfretwell wrote:

You can sharpen a chain that was in the sand in a couple minutes.

I find it cheaper to just replace the chain, than to sharpen it myself.
It costs about $25 to replace. About $30 to have sharpened.

[Ralph Mowery]

"Ewald Böhm" wrote in message
...
.

I find it cheaper to just replace the chain, than to sharpen it myself.
It costs about $25 to replace. About $30 to have sharpened.


Harbor Freight has an electric sharpener on sale for around $ 30 or $ 40
that you can shapren a chain within a few moments. The chains can be
sharpened severl times.

While not heavy duty, it works fine for the average home owner.

[[email protected]]

On Fri, 18 Sep 2015 03:36:06 +0000 (UTC), Ewald Böhm
wrote:

On Thu, 17 Sep 2015 22:28:04 -0400, gfretwell wrote:

You can sharpen a chain that was in the sand in a couple minutes.

I find it cheaper to just replace the chain, than to sharpen it myself.
It costs about $25 to replace. About $30 to have sharpened.

I would rather spend a few minutes with my Dremel than spend $25 and
take the saw apart every time I cut a palm tree.
Sometimes you may be sharpening twice on one tree.

[harry k]

On Thursday, September 17, 2015 at 6:15:41 PM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Ewald Böhm wrote:
On Thu, 17 Sep 2015 10:50:06 -0700, Harry K wrote:

Why not use bar/chain oil? Face it, none of us cut that much wood so
the expense is not a bank buster. I do up to 10 cord/yr and stick
with bar/chain oil.

In a pinch, I want to know my options.

In a pinch almost any oil will do . I don't cut as much wood as Harry ,
but I do a few cords a year and I use chain oil . Cheaper than replacing
worn out bars and stretched chains . TIP: a sharp chain will run cooler ,
stretch less , and last longer in addition to cutting faster . If I touch
rock or something I put that saw away until I have time to check it out -
that's why all 3 saws go out with me when I'm cutting .

--
Snag

I carry my toolbox with at least 2 chains for every saw I have on the truck.. Usually 3 but the other day I found I had 5 and used every one of them (small stihl 192t to large Stihl 441. More just to give them some work than needing them.

Harry K

[harry k]

On Thursday, September 17, 2015 at 8:36:10 PM UTC-7, Ewald Böhm wrote:
On Thu, 17 Sep 2015 22:28:04 -0400, gfretwell wrote:

You can sharpen a chain that was in the sand in a couple minutes.

I find it cheaper to just replace the chain, than to sharpen it myself.
It costs about $25 to replace. About $30 to have sharpened.

!!! You are being ripped off. Highest I ever paid was $10 and usually several dollars under that. I almost always sharpen myself but sometimes I get lazy.

Harry K

[Ewald Böhm]

On Fri, 18 Sep 2015 14:28:23 -0700, Harry K wrote:

I carry my toolbox with at least 2 chains for every saw I have on the
truck.

I have the Husky 445 which uses a pixel microthin bar (I don't know why
they bother) but it takes a special chain, unfortunately.

A normal chain is too thick for the bar.

[Terry Coombs[_2_]]

Harry K wrote:
On Thursday, September 17, 2015 at 6:15:41 PM UTC-7, Terry Coombs
wrote:
Ewald Böhm wrote:
On Thu, 17 Sep 2015 10:50:06 -0700, Harry K wrote:

Why not use bar/chain oil? Face it, none of us cut that much wood
so the expense is not a bank buster. I do up to 10 cord/yr and
stick with bar/chain oil.

In a pinch, I want to know my options.

In a pinch almost any oil will do . I don't cut as much wood as
Harry , but I do a few cords a year and I use chain oil . Cheaper
than replacing worn out bars and stretched chains . TIP: a sharp
chain will run cooler , stretch less , and last longer in addition
to cutting faster . If I touch rock or something I put that saw away
until I have time to check it out - that's why all 3 saws go out
with me when I'm cutting .

--
Snag

I carry my toolbox with at least 2 chains for every saw I have on the
truck. Usually 3 but the other day I found I had 5 and used every
one of them (small stihl 192t to large Stihl 441. More just to give
them some work than needing them.

Harry K

I'm pretty careful to keep the bar out of the dirt . I'd rather switch saws
then swap or sharpen the chains when I'm done for the day . I only have one
spare for each saw , but I keep them sharp in case I get stupid . Around
here if you touch dirt there's a pretty good chance there's a rock there ...
there is a reason they called it Stone County .

--
Snag

[harry k]

On Friday, September 18, 2015 at 2:58:57 PM UTC-7, Ewald Böhm wrote:
On Fri, 18 Sep 2015 14:28:23 -0700, Harry K wrote:

I carry my toolbox with at least 2 chains for every saw I have on the
truck.

I have the Husky 445 which uses a pixel microthin bar (I don't know why
they bother) but it takes a special chain, unfortunately.

A normal chain is too thick for the bar.

Any dealer should be able to either get or make up a chain for it.

Harry K

[harry k]

On Saturday, September 19, 2015 at 5:33:41 AM UTC-7, Terry Coombs wrote:
Harry K wrote:
On Thursday, September 17, 2015 at 6:15:41 PM UTC-7, Terry Coombs
wrote:
Ewald Böhm wrote:
On Thu, 17 Sep 2015 10:50:06 -0700, Harry K wrote:

Why not use bar/chain oil? Face it, none of us cut that much wood
so the expense is not a bank buster. I do up to 10 cord/yr and
stick with bar/chain oil.

In a pinch, I want to know my options.

In a pinch almost any oil will do . I don't cut as much wood as
Harry , but I do a few cords a year and I use chain oil . Cheaper
than replacing worn out bars and stretched chains . TIP: a sharp
chain will run cooler , stretch less , and last longer in addition
to cutting faster . If I touch rock or something I put that saw away
until I have time to check it out - that's why all 3 saws go out
with me when I'm cutting .

--
Snag

I carry my toolbox with at least 2 chains for every saw I have on the
truck. Usually 3 but the other day I found I had 5 and used every
one of them (small stihl 192t to large Stihl 441. More just to give
them some work than needing them.

Harry K

I'm pretty careful to keep the bar out of the dirt . I'd rather switch saws
then swap or sharpen the chains when I'm done for the day . I only have one
spare for each saw , but I keep them sharp in case I get stupid . Around
here if you touch dirt there's a pretty good chance there's a rock there ....
there is a reason they called it Stone County .

--
Snag

A few years ago I was cutting up a large branch laying on a gravel road. I was very carful but finished a cut and saw a line in the dirt. didn't even try another rcut, just got out the tool box and changed chains.

Harry K