i've got a large but skinny exterior window just to the right of my front
entrance door. The bottom sill sticks out more than the rest (design
element) and of course holds water when it rains....

so - the bottom left corner of frame (where the left panel meets the bottom
sill) has gotten soft. I've read about 2 part products that contain a wood
petrifier to solidify the wood (when the majority of the crappy rotted wood
has been removed) and then an epoxy based putty that you use to "replace"
the wood with.

has anybody had experience with this type of product? any opinions? i'm
looking to do some springtime repairs and would like this to be one of them.

b

"Hamilton Audio" wrote in message
news:JKmEd.39919$Xk.29554@pd7tw3no...
i've got a large but skinny exterior window just to the right of my front
entrance door. The bottom sill sticks out more than the rest (design
element) and of course holds water when it rains....

so - the bottom left corner of frame (where the left panel meets the
bottom
sill) has gotten soft. I've read about 2 part products that contain a
wood
petrifier to solidify the wood (when the majority of the crappy rotted
wood
has been removed) and then an epoxy based putty that you use to "replace"
the wood with.

has anybody had experience with this type of product? any opinions? i'm
looking to do some springtime repairs and would like this to be one of
them.


Not sure what you have read.

I have used the "West Systems" 2 part epoxy product with great success.
Once you dig out the really rotten stuff it will petrify the remainder. You
really have to see this to believe it. I was so impressed I even treated
another window sill on the same side of the house that was just a little
spongy.

For the one that had the really rotten section I filled the void with bondo
( a fiberglass product used in automotive repairs). This was easy to shape
and sand to conform to the existing wood profile. Once sanded and primed you
could not tell where the repaired area was. In this case I replaced about
20% of the exterior portion of an old wooden window sill.

I used this process based on information provided by people who should know
what they were doing. It has only been 18 months since I did it so I have
no long term results to report. At this point it still looks great.

Colbyt

"Hamilton Audio" wrote in message
news:JKmEd.39919$Xk.29554@pd7tw3no...
i've got a large but skinny exterior window just to the right of my front
entrance door. The bottom sill sticks out more than the rest (design
element) and of course holds water when it rains....

so - the bottom left corner of frame (where the left panel meets the
bottom sill) has gotten soft. I've read about 2 part products that
contain a wood petrifier to solidify the wood (when the majority of the
crappy rotted wood has been removed) and then an epoxy based putty that
you use to "replace" the wood with.

has anybody had experience with this type of product? any opinions? i'm
looking to do some springtime repairs and would like this to be one of
them.

b


read somewhere the "git" stuff doesn't work

heard bondo (car body filler) can be used on rotted wood to some effect,
don't know if it works or advisability of it

"effi" wrote in message
...
"Hamilton Audio" wrote in message
news:JKmEd.39919$Xk.29554@pd7tw3no...
i've got a large but skinny exterior window just to the right of my front
entrance door. The bottom sill sticks out more than the rest (design
element) and of course holds water when it rains....

so - the bottom left corner of frame (where the left panel meets the
bottom sill) has gotten soft. I've read about 2 part products that
contain a wood petrifier to solidify the wood (when the majority of the
crappy rotted wood has been removed) and then an epoxy based putty that
you use to "replace" the wood with.

has anybody had experience with this type of product? any opinions? i'm
looking to do some springtime repairs and would like this to be one of
them.

b


read somewhere the "git" stuff doesn't work

heard bondo (car body filler) can be used on rotted wood to some effect,
don't know if it works or advisability of it

on side of bondo can:
"WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the state of California
to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm."

I've used two different brands of epoxy for this kind of work.
Used correctly, they are first rate.
They have to be mixed exactly and applied with care.

The wood has to be dry. That takes time.

We used some on an exterior wood coulumn and didn't account for water
penetration above the fix. The epoxy trapped the water in the column.

One worker got creative with the proportions and ruined one job.
I would use the consolidant and the filler from the same company.

TB

I would add that there are several webpages devoted to this subject,
complete with pictures. Do a search for them.

In article , effi wrote:
...snipped...
on side of bondo can:
"WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the state of California
to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm."



I have the same warning on a package of DRILL BITS!


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

However you fix the wood, it remains true that the
bottom sill shoudn't be ponding water. You should
fill so that the sill slopes out.

"Lawrence Wasserman" wrote in message
...
In article , effi
wrote:
...snipped...
on side of bondo can:
"WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the state of
California
to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm."

I have the same warning on a package of DRILL BITS!
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland


wonder what's on the drill bits?

though the bondo can doesn't specify, the offensive material in bondo
resulting in its smell and the warning appears to be styrene (same
carcinogenic stuff found on styrofoam plates, cups, or food containers -
yummy

http://www.petitiononline.com/5706esp/petition.html

"please make that order to go in one of your posionous styrofoam food
containers"

On Mon, 10 Jan 2005 03:36:09 GMT, "Hamilton Audio"
wrote:

i've got a large but skinny exterior window just to the right of my front
entrance door. The bottom sill sticks out more than the rest (design
element) and of course holds water when it rains....

so - the bottom left corner of frame (where the left panel meets the bottom
sill) has gotten soft. I've read about 2 part products that contain a wood
petrifier to solidify the wood (when the majority of the crappy rotted wood
has been removed) and then an epoxy based putty that you use to "replace"
the wood with.

has anybody had experience with this type of product? any opinions? i'm
looking to do some springtime repairs and would like this to be one of them.

b



Here's what I'd do. Cut out the sill portion of the window and any
soft wood. Cutting away the sill may reveal additional damage that
will need to be removed. Use an ice pick or awl to test for soft
wood. Using white oak (white oak is an excellent outdoor wood) make a
replacement sill that slopes away from the window. Seal the wood,
especially the end-grain portions. Use a waterproof glue such as
Waterproof Elmer's Carpenter's Glue to fasten wood to wood. Lots of
patience (trial and error) will give a good fit. Nail or glue into
place. Prime, caulk, and paint.

You can use epoxy auto body fillers. I find this more difficult to
shape than wood, but that's my opinion.

has anybody had experience with this type of product?

Used the repair kit from MinWax, works pretty well. There is also a step by
step article in a "This Old House" magazine a while back.
Commercial body fillers (bondo type) work very well if the substrate is decent.
They are usually applied and shaped wirh a cheese grater file while partially
cured. The final shaping is then relatively easy to do.
HTH

Joe

Joe Bobst wrote:

has anybody had experience with this type of product?

Used the repair kit from MinWax, works pretty well. There is also a step by
step article in a "This Old House" magazine a while back.
Commercial body fillers (bondo type) work very well if the substrate is decent.
....

The Minwax kit is Bondo at roughly 3x the price...

I checked the MDS some time ago as part of a discussion on the FWW
board...they share the same one.

On Mon, 10 Jan 2005 03:36:09 GMT, "Hamilton Audio"
wrote:

Last year late summer, I started to repaired and paint all rotting woods. It
took me 3 weeks to removed and replace section of rotting woods with new lumber
on three windows. I decided it's too costly and time consuming, I went to HD
talk to the people in the paint section. I asked about various putty. I bought a
16 oz "Durham's" Rock Hard Water Putty and 1Qt "Custom Exterior Spackling
Paste".

'Durham" cost more than "Custom..". dries faster. "Custom.." is equally Hard and
waterproof. Looking at both finished after he first snow fall late last year. I
came to the conclusion "Custom" seem to be better than Durham putty. I will
continue with the repairs in spring using both Durham and Custom. on small rots
I will use Durham and bigger ones I will use Custom Exterior Spackling Paste.

I think for your skinny exterior windows, Durham should be a better choice.

i've got a large but skinny exterior window just to the right of my front
entrance door. The bottom sill sticks out more than the rest (design
element) and of course holds water when it rains....

so - the bottom left corner of frame (where the left panel meets the bottom
sill) has gotten soft. I've read about 2 part products that contain a wood
petrifier to solidify the wood (when the majority of the crappy rotted wood
has been removed) and then an epoxy based putty that you use to "replace"
the wood with.

has anybody had experience with this type of product? any opinions? i'm
looking to do some springtime repairs and would like this to be one of them.

b

Durham wont last 10 yrs it is a wood-cellolose base product, it will
lloosen and pop up ,bondo is best.

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 18:48:15 -0600, (m Ransley) wrote:

If what you say it is true, and if we properly seal and paint the repaired
sections. I believe it should last .......??

Durham wont last 10 yrs it is a wood-cellolose base product, it will
lloosen and pop up ,bondo is best.

I used to paint for a living , comming upon repaints of say 10 yrs
Durhams never laster the 10. Ive seen it to many times, even if primed
and painted it just wont last, it lifts and pops up. Durhams was the
only option for years till plastics came into use. For interior use it
is OK

Jim B wrote:

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 18:48:15 -0600, (m Ransley) wrote:

If what you say it is true, and if we properly seal and paint the repaired
sections. I believe it should last .......??

Durham wont last 10 yrs it is a wood-cellolose base product, it will
lloosen and pop up ,bondo is best.

I'll second Jim B's observation--don't know the other product, but
unless it is in an area well protected from weather (like a window
behind a storm window, say) it simply will not last more than 5 years or
a little longer, depending on the severity of the climate (temperature
swings, water, etc.). I'd still not use it for permanent exterior
work.

Thanks for sharing your valuable experience.
"m Ransley" wrote in message
...
I used to paint for a living , comming upon repaints of say 10 yrs
Durhams never laster the 10. Ive seen it to many times, even if primed
and painted it just wont last, it lifts and pops up. Durhams was the
only option for years till plastics came into use. For interior use it
is OK

I had a rotted door plate, caused by porch sloping the wrong way. Plate was
salvageable, fortunately, though heavily eaten by termites. I removed all
soft wood, termite droppings, and anything loose; shop vac helped. I
injected a termiticide and let it dry; couldn't tell if termite droppings
post-dated fumigation of 4 years ago. Then I used Bondo. I also redesigned
the porch to remedy the water-collection problem.
"Joe Bobst" wrote in message
...
has anybody had experience with this type of product?

Used the repair kit from MinWax, works pretty well. There is also a step
by
step article in a "This Old House" magazine a while back.
Commercial body fillers (bondo type) work very well if the substrate is
decent.
They are usually applied and shaped wirh a cheese grater file while
partially
cured. The final shaping is then relatively easy to do.
HTH

Joe