Currently have the walls open on second floor of hundred year
old balloon framed house. With the walls open I have access to
most of the stud bays on the first floor. looking for
suggestions to insulate the outside walls of the first floor
from the opening on the second floor.

wrote:
On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 08:44:38 GMT, old hifi guy
wrote:

Currently have the walls open on second floor of hundred year
old balloon framed house. With the walls open I have access to
most of the stud bays on the first floor. looking for
suggestions to insulate the outside walls of the first floor
from the opening on the second floor.

Balloon framed??????
What the f____ are you talking about?

In balloon framing the studs are continuous up the side of the home and
the opening between studs is open from the first floor to the attic. The
second floor floor is attached to the studs not sitting on the top of an 8
foot stud wall.


I hope no one ever sticks a pin in your walls !!!!
That could be real dangerous......
* B O O M *

--
Joseph Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

old hifi guy wrote:
Currently have the walls open on second floor of hundred year
old balloon framed house. With the walls open I have access to
most of the stud bays on the first floor. looking for
suggestions to insulate the outside walls of the first floor
from the opening on the second floor.

I would ask for a couple of bids from local insulation companies. They
should have the experience and equipment to make the job go quick and easy.
I would guess they will blow in insulation. Some of the newer types will
not settle after the fact.

I will add that in my opinion it is important to fill those stud bays,
not just to make your home more energy efficient and quieter, but reduce the
fire hazard.

--
Joseph Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

Many years ago, longer beams used to be available. Baloon frame means that
there is an open channel through the walls from the cellar to the attic.

Firemen hate this kind of house, cause a fire in the cellar can turn into a
fire in the attic is very little time.

I'd suggest you consider blown cellulose insullation. And firestops on the
bottom end of the walls (which will be the highest reaches of the cellar).
Of course, you are likely to get better advice than this from folks who are
in the insullation trade.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


wrote in message
...
On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 08:44:38 GMT, old hifi guy
wrote:

Currently have the walls open on second floor of hundred year
old balloon framed house. With the walls open I have access to
most of the stud bays on the first floor. looking for
suggestions to insulate the outside walls of the first floor
from the opening on the second floor.

Balloon framed??????
What the f____ are you talking about?

I hope no one ever sticks a pin in your walls !!!!
That could be real dangerous......
* B O O M *

Right.... fire in the cellar pops out in the attic...

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...


I will add that in my opinion it is important to fill those stud bays,
not just to make your home more energy efficient and quieter, but reduce the
fire hazard.

--
Joseph Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

Cellulose is what alot of contractors do, but in a 100 yr old house that
the basement is not sealed well, Do Not do it. Cellulose is paper and is
dusty. You will have a permanent dust problem of chemicaly treated dust
in your house. Fibergass blown in is better, but best is foam. Icynene
foam will seal, not turn to dust and insulate more effectivly because it
is cured solid to the wood and is a moisture barrier. Icynene is R 3.5 -
4.5.per inch or so. A poly urethane can be used but it needs some time
to outgass. But it is a much higher R value than Icynene foam.
Cellulose = dust. Your old house is not sealed well, I know people who
now have major dust problems from cellulose. Cellulose is paper that
deteriorates to dust when used dry. There are new types of Cellulose
aplications that use a glue binder and go in wet. But in rehab it can
mold before it is cured, in new construction it is OK. Foam costs more
but the payback will be quicker and worth the cost and future
cleanliness . Dont jump into it, research it your self.

On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 08:49:56 -0600, (m Ransley)
wrote:

Cellulose is what alot of contractors do, but in a 100 yr old house that
the basement is not sealed well, Do Not do it. Cellulose is paper and is
dusty. You will have a permanent dust problem of chemicaly treated dust
in your house. Fibergass blown in is better, but best is foam. Icynene
foam will seal, not turn to dust and insulate more effectivly because it
is cured solid to the wood and is a moisture barrier. Icynene is R 3.5 -
4.5.per inch or so. A poly urethane can be used but it needs some time
to outgass. But it is a much higher R value than Icynene foam.
Cellulose = dust. Your old house is not sealed well, I know people who
now have major dust problems from cellulose. Cellulose is paper that
deteriorates to dust when used dry. There are new types of Cellulose
aplications that use a glue binder and go in wet. But in rehab it can
mold before it is cured, in new construction it is OK. Foam costs more
but the payback will be quicker and worth the cost and future
cleanliness . Dont jump into it, research it your self.

IMHO,

Just another 2 cents into the pot, foam(icynene) should not settle out
over time like cellulose can. This way you maintain your wall's
insulational protection for years to come.

later,

Tom @ www.URLBee.com

wrote:


-snip-
Just another 2 cents into the pot, foam(icynene) should not settle out
over time like cellulose can. This way you maintain your wall's
insulational protection for years to come.

Foam doesn't settle, it 'out-gasses' leaving a chunk of useless foam
with an air space around which wind can blow.

I'm still partial to cellulose. If properly installed it *doesn't*
settle. It is also treated with ?borax? which makes it an
inhospitable place for insects or rodents to live. I've never found
rodent nests in my walls that are filled with cellulose-- but finding
them in the fiberglass filled walls is relatively common.

Jim

Jim Elbrecht wrote:

wrote:


-snip-

Just another 2 cents into the pot, foam(icynene) should not settle out
over time like cellulose can. This way you maintain your wall's
insulational protection for years to come.


Foam doesn't settle, it 'out-gasses' leaving a chunk of useless foam
with an air space around which wind can blow.

I'm still partial to cellulose. If properly installed it *doesn't*
settle. It is also treated with ?borax? which makes it an
inhospitable place for insects or rodents to live. I've never found
rodent nests in my walls that are filled with cellulose-- but finding
them in the fiberglass filled walls is relatively common.

If you spray foam into an existing wall, it will likely push the wall
board off the studs.

Icynene outgasses in 30 minutes. But blowing out walls is the issue,
Final payment and his insurance Co. is your insurance, Reaearch
these..