I'm working on a project, using "something" plastic for a float on salt
water. Am contemplating using one of the low, rectangular plastic
storage containers if I can cement it closed to make it water-tight.
Don't know what kind of plastic they are typically made of -
polystyrene, polypropylene? Hubby and I like to engineer small,
inconsequential projects ) Trying to rig a small, floating platform
to store kayak out of the water. Any helpful suggestions appreciated.
Since it's almost Christmas, you're welcome to make fun, as well )

I'd head to a place like Home Depot and choose some type of silicone sealer
that's designed for clinging to smooth surfaces like tile, tubs or glass.
Since you'll need a lot, focus on the tubes that fit into a caulking gun.
I'd use sandpaper to rough up all the plastic surfaces, and then wipe them
clean with rubbing alcohol. First, apply the sealer to the top edge of the
box where it touches the lid. Give it a day to dry (no matter WHAT the
instructions say about how it cures in 4 hours). Then, flip the box upside
down and load the sealer heavily into the seam under the lip of the lid.

Make sure that kayak's tied to something on land, just in case...... :-)

"Norminn" wrote in message
...
I'm working on a project, using "something" plastic for a float on salt
water. Am contemplating using one of the low, rectangular plastic
storage containers if I can cement it closed to make it water-tight.
Don't know what kind of plastic they are typically made of -
polystyrene, polypropylene? Hubby and I like to engineer small,
inconsequential projects ) Trying to rig a small, floating platform
to store kayak out of the water. Any helpful suggestions appreciated.
Since it's almost Christmas, you're welcome to make fun, as well )

HDPE and PP are the common plastics used for storage containers. These
materials are not easily or reliably glued. Most reliable joining is by plastic
hot air welding or similar techniques.
One old idea is filling up the space with ping pong balls or old tennis balls
for flotation. You might also find a source of industrial waste and look for
the blue plastic barrels that liquid materials are shipped in. These would not
need modification to float. Another way that works is to prepare a polystyrene
foam block of the shape you want and fiberglass it with an epoxy resin.
Polyester resins will dissolve the foam but epoxies don't. These materials are
usually found in boat shops. Another cheap source of containers might be
plastic gas tanks from a auto salvage yard. Sealing them up could be possible
using a heat source like a soldering iron.
Hope this helps...

Joe

"Norminn" wrote in message
...
I'm working on a project, using "something" plastic for a float on salt
water. Am contemplating using one of the low, rectangular plastic storage
containers if I can cement it closed to make it water-tight. Don't know
what kind of plastic they are typically made of - polystyrene,
polypropylene? Hubby and I like to engineer small, inconsequential
projects ) Trying to rig a small, floating platform to store kayak out
of the water. Any helpful suggestions appreciated. Since it's almost
Christmas, you're welcome to make fun, as well )

I was just helping a friend install a printer that was a replacement unit.
The packing technique might work for you.

Instead of foam inserts, the packing material was simply good size plastic
bags full of those foamed peanuts. The bags were packed just loosely enough
to allow them to be fitted to the printer and having the peanuts bagged kept
them from the usual mess.

See what kind of very strong bags you can find. As they say "whatever floats
your boat".

Charlie

"Norminn" wrote in message
...
I'm working on a project, using "something" plastic for a float on salt
water. Am contemplating using one of the low, rectangular plastic storage
containers if I can cement it closed to make it water-tight. Don't know
what kind of plastic they are typically made of - polystyrene,
polypropylene? Hubby and I like to engineer small, inconsequential
projects ) Trying to rig a small, floating platform to store kayak out
of the water. Any helpful suggestions appreciated. Since it's almost
Christmas, you're welcome to make fun, as well )

I would try construction adhesive. Sticks to almost everything. Comes in
small and large tubes. W W

On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 16:57:46 GMT, Norminn
wrote:

I'm working on a project, using "something" plastic for a float on salt
water. Am contemplating using one of the low, rectangular plastic
storage containers if I can cement it closed to make it water-tight.
Don't know what kind of plastic they are typically made of -
polystyrene, polypropylene? Hubby and I like to engineer small,
inconsequential projects ) Trying to rig a small, floating platform
to store kayak out of the water. Any helpful suggestions appreciated.
Since it's almost Christmas, you're welcome to make fun, as well )


How about PVC? You can use plastic ends. The parts are readily
available, inexpensive, and cut easily.

"Norminn" wrote in message
...
I'm working on a project, using "something" plastic for a float on salt
water. Am contemplating using one of the low, rectangular plastic storage
containers if I can cement it closed to make it water-tight. Don't know
what kind of plastic they are typically made of - polystyrene,
polypropylene?

The materials used for those containers are difficult to adhere anything to.
Some can be heat welded.

I'd try to get a block of foam to be sure it will not crack, fill, leak, or
fall apart. I sold block of expandable polystyrene foam will support 62
pounds for every cubic foot of foam. .

why not just use styrofoam that already floats, doesnt need the top glued
on, and is cheap if not free...

randy

"Norminn" wrote in message
...
I'm working on a project, using "something" plastic for a float on salt
water. Am contemplating using one of the low, rectangular plastic storage
containers if I can cement it closed to make it water-tight. Don't know
what kind of plastic they are typically made of - polystyrene,
polypropylene? Hubby and I like to engineer small, inconsequential
projects ) Trying to rig a small, floating platform to store kayak out
of the water. Any helpful suggestions appreciated. Since it's almost
Christmas, you're welcome to make fun, as well )

"xrongor" wrote in message
...
why not just use styrofoam that already floats, doesnt need the top glued
on, and is cheap if not free...

falls apart in the sun

randy

"Norminn" wrote in message
...
I'm working on a project, using "something" plastic for a float on salt
water. Am contemplating using one of the low, rectangular plastic
storage containers if I can cement it closed to make it water-tight.
Don't know what kind of plastic they are typically made of - polystyrene,
polypropylene? Hubby and I like to engineer small, inconsequential
projects ) Trying to rig a small, floating platform to store kayak out
of the water. Any helpful suggestions appreciated. Since it's almost
Christmas, you're welcome to make fun, as well )

wheres waldo...

"Charles Spitzer" wrote in message
...

"xrongor" wrote in message
...
why not just use styrofoam that already floats, doesnt need the top glued
on, and is cheap if not free...

falls apart in the sun

randy

"Norminn" wrote in message
...
I'm working on a project, using "something" plastic for a float on salt
water. Am contemplating using one of the low, rectangular plastic
storage containers if I can cement it closed to make it water-tight.

so will the plastic containers.

Don't know what kind of plastic they are typically made of -
polystyrene, polypropylene? Hubby and I like to engineer small,
inconsequential projects ) Trying to rig a small, floating platform
to store kayak out of the water. Any helpful suggestions appreciated.
Since it's almost Christmas, you're welcome to make fun, as well )

On 14-Dec-2004, Norminn wrote:

Don't know what kind of plastic they are typically made of -
polystyrene, polypropylene?

Look for the recycling mark. There should be a triangle of arrows
with a number inside and some initials below. The initials identify
the type of material. For example:

PP - Polypropylene
PS - Polystyrene
PE - Polyethylene

etc.

Then you can determine which glue to use. Plastics like polypropylene
have a low surface energy and are very difficult to glue. There are
glues available, from companies like 3M and Locktite, but they are
very expensive - like $25/oz. What you need to find is a high surface
energy plastic that is easy to glue. Polystyrene is an example, but it
tends to be brittle.

You also have to consider what properties are appropriate - toughness,
UV resistance etc. Do a web search on the properties of plastics
and you'll find something. Don't get your hopes up for the low plastic
containers like Rubbermaid makes - they are likely polypropylene and
will not be glued easily.

Mike

Doug Kanter wrote:
I'd head to a place like Home Depot and choose some type of silicone sealer
that's designed for clinging to smooth surfaces like tile, tubs or glass.
Since you'll need a lot, focus on the tubes that fit into a caulking gun.
I'd use sandpaper to rough up all the plastic surfaces, and then wipe them
clean with rubbing alcohol. First, apply the sealer to the top edge of the
box where it touches the lid. Give it a day to dry (no matter WHAT the
instructions say about how it cures in 4 hours). Then, flip the box upside
down and load the sealer heavily into the seam under the lip of the lid.

Make sure that kayak's tied to something on land, just in case...... :-)


Yer talkin' to someone in the "Land of Four Hurricanes". Heck, yes, we tie
things down ) All except for the 15'x5' skylight that few over onto the
top of a palm tree )

Plan on keeping it at front end of boat slip, tied to dock
and seawall.Does your advice to use silicone sealer come with a guarantee?
Does anyone know how to compute how many 12x24" (bottom dimensions) I
will need to float a 50# kayak and a couple of 1x6 pressure treated
boards? Plan to build very simple framework that will just lay onto the
plastic containers, with longitudinal boards protruding above the
lateral members so's the kayak will slide up onto it; probably bevel
long. members on one end to help it along.

Phisherman wrote:
On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 16:57:46 GMT, Norminn
wrote:


I'm working on a project, using "something" plastic for a float on salt
water. Am contemplating using one of the low, rectangular plastic
storage containers if I can cement it closed to make it water-tight.
Don't know what kind of plastic they are typically made of -
polystyrene, polypropylene? Hubby and I like to engineer small,
inconsequential projects ) Trying to rig a small, floating platform
to store kayak out of the water. Any helpful suggestions appreciated.
Since it's almost Christmas, you're welcome to make fun, as well )



How about PVC? You can use plastic ends. The parts are readily
available, inexpensive, and cut easily.

We originally intended to use fat PVC, but it's pretty heavy and I don't
know how to figure out how much flotation is needed to hold up the wood
frame and the kayak.

clipped

You also have to consider what properties are appropriate - toughness,
UV resistance etc. Do a web search on the properties of plastics
and you'll find something. Don't get your hopes up for the low plastic
containers like Rubbermaid makes - they are likely polypropylene and
will not be glued easily.

Mike

I don't want to get into either rocket science or the properties of
plastic. May buy a couple of slabs of styro, a heavy tarp and some duck
tape. ) Hubby is thinking of 5 gal water jugs, fill with expandable
foam, and seal with that plastic goop you dip wires into to insulate )

On 14-Dec-2004, Norminn wrote:

I don't
know how to figure out how much flotation is needed to hold up the wood
frame and the kayak.

The weight of the stuff supported has to be less than the weight of the
volume of water displaced by the containers. Sea water density is
dependent on the temperature and salinity, but you can use an average
of 64 lb/cu.ft. Take the weight of what you want to support (deck,
people, objects etc) and divide by 64. That tells you how many cubic
feet of volume you need in containers underwater. Be conservative
and make sure you have more flotation than you think you need.

Mike

"Charlie Bress" Here-I-am-at-the-last-moment.com wrote in
:




Instead of foam inserts, the packing material was simply good size
plastic bags full of those foamed peanuts. The bags were packed just
loosely enough to allow them to be fitted to the printer and having
the peanuts bagged kept them from the usual mess.

Most importantly,this also keeps the protected item from sinking to the
bottom of the container and not having any protection,while the loose
peanuts float on top.I've seen many expensive electronic units damaged by
improper packing using loose styro peanuts.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net

"Charles Spitzer" wrote in message
...

"xrongor" wrote in message
...
why not just use styrofoam that already floats, doesnt need the top glued
on, and is cheap if not free...

falls apart in the sun

Oh, not really. Over many years the UV will break it down some, but we're
talking years, not months. You can always put a coating of latex paint on
it. Entire companies have been in the business of supplying the molded foam
for use in mooring buoys, lobster markers, etc. Not to mention pool
accessories, floating chairs, surf boards, etc.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

"Norminn" wrote in message

I don't want to get into either rocket science or the properties of
plastic. May buy a couple of slabs of styro, a heavy tarp and some duck
tape. ) Hubby is thinking of 5 gal water jugs, fill with expandable
foam, and seal with that plastic goop you dip wires into to insulate )

Either one will work.

Go get some 30 gallon plastic drums and be done with it.

On 14-Dec-2004, Gino wrote:

2 jugs filled with foam support almost 100 pounds.

1 US gallon milk jugs weight 50lb each from the store?

Mike

"Gino" wrote in message
...
If you have a recycle bin close by you can get plastic 1 gallon milk jugs
free.
Bleach bottles or any gallon jug will work but I understand that the
plastic in
milk jugs will last for decades.
Or check your local auto repair shop and pickup jugs from oil and
antifreeze.
These can pollute so milk jugs are better.
2 jugs filled with foam support almost 100 pounds.

is that how dolly parton stays up?



build a frame under your deck to hold the bottles fill the frame and then
cover
with galvanized fencing.
This will hold the bottles in place.
Once the dock is in the water the bottles tight against the bottom.

This will be cheap as hell and last for years.

Actually my buddy told me I'm in error. They calculated each jug to support
25
pounds, so 4 jugs to 100 pounds. I believe Dolly only has two.


A pint's a pound the world around. A gallon of sea water is about 8 pounds. You
will get a significant part of that in bouyancy with a jug of foam.
So about 13 jugs for 100 lbs.
As someone who actively participates in beach and bay cleanup I will also say a
garden variety milk jug won't last that long in the sun and salt water. They
will get brittle and crumble within a year.
The standard float for people who don't want to buy the real dock floats is the
poly drum. They even make hardware to fasten them to the structure.

Things that work "out on the lake" (like that galvanized fence idea) will not
hold up in the southern sun and salt water. By the end of the summer that 16ga
galvanized wire will be a rusty mess. You also may have to deal with some
"named" weather ;-)

"Norminn" wrote in message
...


Phisherman wrote:
On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 16:57:46 GMT, Norminn
wrote:


I'm working on a project, using "something" plastic for a float on salt
water. Am contemplating using one of the low, rectangular plastic
storage containers if I can cement it closed to make it water-tight.
Don't know what kind of plastic they are typically made of - polystyrene,
polypropylene? Hubby and I like to engineer small, inconsequential
projects ) Trying to rig a small, floating platform to store kayak out
of the water. Any helpful suggestions appreciated. Since it's almost
Christmas, you're welcome to make fun, as well )



How about PVC? You can use plastic ends. The parts are readily
available, inexpensive, and cut easily.

We originally intended to use fat PVC, but it's pretty heavy and I don't
know how to figure out how much flotation is needed to hold up the wood
frame and the kayak.

if the weight of the water displaced by the object as it settles in the
water, weighs more than the object, it will float. find the weight of the
kayak, estimate the weight of the float, add some to cover your butt,
convert that weight to gallons of water and you have some idea of the
displacement required.

randy

"Greg" wrote in message
...
Actually my buddy told me I'm in error. They calculated each jug to
support
25
pounds, so 4 jugs to 100 pounds. I believe Dolly only has two.


A pint's a pound the world around. A gallon of sea water is about 8
pounds. You
will get a significant part of that in bouyancy with a jug of foam.
So about 13 jugs for 100 lbs.

bouyancy is determined by how much water is displaced and a foam filled
gallon jug displaces just as much as one that isnt filled when submerged,
assuming no crushing occurs. the only reason to fill them with foam is for
durability.

randy

clipped

The standard float for people who don't want to buy the real dock floats is the
poly drum. They even make hardware to fasten them to the structure.

What is a "poly drum" and where does one buy them and the fasteners?

Things that work "out on the lake" (like that galvanized fence idea) will not
hold up in the southern sun and salt water. By the end of the summer that 16ga
galvanized wire will be a rusty mess. You also may have to deal with some
"named" weather ;-)

I would have passed on the galvanized, but sure appreciate all the
input. I believe that sheets of PVC are used to wrap pilings to deter
barnacles ... is there a "paint on" coating of PVC? Believe I've read
of PVC in paint? Would be nice to find an inexpensive material that
also doesn't grow barnacles )

Norminn wrote:

We originally intended to use fat PVC, but it's pretty heavy and I
don't know how to figure out how much flotation is needed to hold up
the wood frame and the kayak.

To determine cubic inches of PVC interior per running foot...
(square of radius in inches ) * 3.14 * 12
-OR-
http://grapevine.abe.msstate.edu/~ft.../cylinder.html

A cubic foot of dead air will support around 60+ pounds. There are
1,728 cubic inches in a cubic foot.

Weigh what you want to support and go from there. Keep in mind that a
wood platform floats by itself and that the PVC has weight too (which
needs supporting)..

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.05...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Gino wrote:
2 jugs filled with foam support almost 100 pounds.

Good trick since an empty, sealed one gallon container will only support
a bit over eight pounds. Adding foam doesn't increase the weight
supported, diminishes it a bit actually.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.05...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"Norminn" wrote in message
...


Doug Kanter wrote:
I'd head to a place like Home Depot and choose some type of silicone
sealer
that's designed for clinging to smooth surfaces like tile, tubs or
glass.
Since you'll need a lot, focus on the tubes that fit into a caulking
gun.
I'd use sandpaper to rough up all the plastic surfaces, and then wipe
them
clean with rubbing alcohol. First, apply the sealer to the top edge of
the
box where it touches the lid. Give it a day to dry (no matter WHAT the
instructions say about how it cures in 4 hours). Then, flip the box
upside
down and load the sealer heavily into the seam under the lip of the lid.

Make sure that kayak's tied to something on land, just in case......
:-)


Yer talkin' to someone in the "Land of Four Hurricanes". Heck, yes, we
tie
things down ) All except for the 15'x5' skylight that few over onto the
top of a palm tree )

Plan on keeping it at front end of boat slip, tied to dock
and seawall.Does your advice to use silicone sealer come with a guarantee?
Does anyone know how to compute how many 12x24" (bottom dimensions) I
will need to float a 50# kayak and a couple of 1x6 pressure treated
boards? Plan to build very simple framework that will just lay onto the
plastic containers, with longitudinal boards protruding above the
lateral members so's the kayak will slide up onto it; probably bevel
long. members on one end to help it along.


No guarantees whatsoever! Having followed the thread, some of the other
suggestions sound better than mine, particularly those which involve blocks
of styrofoam, and construction adhesive.

"Norminn" wrote in message
...
I'm working on a project, using "something" plastic for a float
on salt
water. Am contemplating using one of the low, rectangular
plastic
storage containers if I can cement it closed to make it
water-tight.
Don't know what kind of plastic they are typically made of -
polystyrene, polypropylene? Hubby and I like to engineer
small,
inconsequential projects ) Trying to rig a small, floating
platform
to store kayak out of the water. Any helpful suggestions
appreciated.
Since it's almost Christmas, you're welcome to make fun, as
well )

Those plastic storage containers are likely to become brittle and
crack after very many months of being outside in the sun. Yhey're
not designed for such use. They same is true of the kayak if it
is plastic. (Fiberglass survives sun better) I store my kayaks in
the garage out of the sun. I've seen kayaks stored outside that
crack on any impact. And, I've got "plastic storage boxes" that
are falling apart from being outside.

Bob

(Greg) wrote in news:20041214203201.06298.00001662@mb-
m18.aol.com:

Go get some 30 gallon plastic drums and be done with it.

I was just commenting on how people will take an expensive item to be
shipped,and toss it into a box and fill the box with loose styro peanuts
and consider it good enough for shipping.Then they are amazed to hear that
it had been damaged beyond repair because it was packed poorly.

This time of year when people are shipping Xmas presents,the "pillow-of-
peanuts" technique of packing items is good to know.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net

On 15-Dec-2004, Gino wrote:

On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 06:00:39 GMT, "Michael Daly" wrote:

On 14-Dec-2004, Gino wrote:

2 jugs filled with foam support almost 100 pounds.

1 US gallon milk jugs weight 50lb each from the store?

Perhaps you should lay of the Christmas nog before posting.

The maximum weight that a floating object can support is the weight
of the water that it displaces. In a milk jug, then that is pretty
much the weight of the jug filled with water. Milk and water are
very close in density. Therefore, if a milk jug will support
50lb, then it will weigh 50lb when filled with water. How do you
explain the 50lb number you posted?

Mike

there's 231 cubic inches per gallon of water and a gallon of water weighs
8.35 pounds
As someone else suggested, I would use two lengths of the lighter weight PVC
(used
for yard drainage and a similar product with holes is used for foundation
drainage).
They are only about $5 for 10' and the common pvc cements in the plumbing
department
make a reliable seal. Each 10' length would lift about 53 pounds.
If you want to get really high tech, rig up a valve system to flood the
tubes (to launch the
kayak) and a simple air pump to force the water out and lift the kayak out
of the water.
A commercial version of this is called a hydrahoist.
bill

"Norminn" wrote in message
...
I'm working on a project, using "something" plastic for a float on salt
water. Am contemplating using one of the low, rectangular plastic storage
containers if I can cement it closed to make it water-tight. Don't know
what kind of plastic they are typically made of - polystyrene,
polypropylene? Hubby and I like to engineer small, inconsequential
projects ) Trying to rig a small, floating platform to store kayak out
of the water. Any helpful suggestions appreciated. Since it's almost
Christmas, you're welcome to make fun, as well )

Gino wrote in
:

On 15 Dec 2004 16:32:23 GMT, Jim Yanik . wrote:

(Greg) wrote in
news:20041214203201.06298.00001662@mb- m18.aol.com:

Go get some 30 gallon plastic drums and be done with it.

I was just commenting on how people will take an expensive item to be
shipped,and toss it into a box and fill the box with loose styro
peanuts and consider it good enough for shipping.Then they are amazed
to hear that it had been damaged beyond repair because it was packed
poorly.

This time of year when people are shipping Xmas presents,the
"pillow-of- peanuts" technique of packing items is good to know.

Up here in Canada Futureshop is now using little bags (like sandwich
bags) filled with air instead of peanuts.

Those bags could be punctured and deflate.Or have a slow leak and
deflate.That means no protection.Even bubble wrap has MANY cells,so loss of
a few does not matter.

Puncture all the peanut-pillows and it doesn't matter;No effect.


My telescope came packed in a solid block of brown expanded foam.
We have a local high end chromer who uses a white expanded foam to
ship his stuff.
They do a lot of custom motorcycle chrome work.


We had custom expanding foam packing(InstaPak) at my TEK field offices,and
there always was the possibility of foam sticking to the item,permanently
ruining it,or too much foam crushing the item upon expansion,or it
squirting out any opening in the box,or splitting the box.It's messy stuff
to work with.
We received lots of packages with loose peanuts,so making peanut-pillows
was a great way of recycling them,and cheaper than using the expanding
foam,or cutting pieces of regular foam to fit.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net

bill a wrote:
there's 231 cubic inches per gallon of water and a gallon of water
weighs 8.35 pounds
As someone else suggested, I would use two lengths of the lighter weight
PVC (used
for yard drainage and a similar product with holes is used for
foundation drainage).
They are only about $5 for 10' and the common pvc cements in the
plumbing department
make a reliable seal. Each 10' length would lift about 53 pounds.
If you want to get really high tech, rig up a valve system to flood the
tubes (to launch the
kayak) and a simple air pump to force the water out and lift the kayak
out of the water.
A commercial version of this is called a hydrahoist.
bill

If my hubby heard this suggestion, he would require $200 worth of
electronics to operate the valves ) I'm thinking about bevening one
end of the "rails" so the kayak slides on and a couple of rope handles
to push off. Looks good on paper )

clipped

Those plastic storage containers are likely to become brittle and
crack after very many months of being outside in the sun. Yhey're
not designed for such use. They same is true of the kayak if it
is plastic. (Fiberglass survives sun better) I store my kayaks in
the garage out of the sun. I've seen kayaks stored outside that
crack on any impact. And, I've got "plastic storage boxes" that
are falling apart from being outside.

Bob



By the time the kayak rots, I'll be too old to worry about it ) And if
I had a garage, we would not be having this conversation )

If my hubby heard this suggestion, he would require $200 worth of
electronics to operate the valves )

but that's why they invented flea markets and garage sales, no?

Gino wrote in
:

On 16 Dec 2004 02:19:42 GMT, Jim Yanik . wrote:




We had custom expanding foam packing(InstaPak) at my TEK field
offices,and there always was the possibility of foam sticking to the
item,permanently ruining it,or too much foam crushing the item upon
expansion,or it squirting out any opening in the box,or splitting the
box.It's messy stuff to work with.

My 10" Dob telescope (pretty big) was wrapped in plastic with the foam
on the outside.

Soemtimes the foam found it's way through a tear or missed opening in the
plastic and it sticks REALLY good to things,nearly impossible to remove
without damage to the item.

The scope tube would be easy to crush if too much foam was used.

We occasionally received bad batches of foam components(2-part foam),and
the foam would not expand immediately as it should,and we had a hard time
with it,putting too much foam into the boxes and then it would begin
expanding uncontrollably.It made terrible messes.



--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net