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-   -   What tool to use to cut stair nose? (https://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/77216-what-tool-use-cut-stair-nose.html)

someone November 17th 04 09:20 PM

What tool to use to cut stair nose?
 

I am thinking to put some 5/16" hardwood floor on my stairs.
I have to cut off the nose from the 1" ply treads in order
to put the hardwood nose on it.

Some web site I visited suggested to cut the nose with a
circular saw. But I did some cutting with a cheap ($40) Sears
Craftsman circular saw before,and I never cut anything straight,
both horizontally and vertically. I wonder if it would make a
difference with a more expensive one. And I would avoid to use
the circular saw if I can.

Would a cheap reuter or recip saw cut the 1" ply nose? I don't
have much experience with wordwork. But I can't find a contractor
just doing that.

I may also need that tool for a sink cutout on the kitchen counter.

Thanks for any help.




Colbyt November 17th 04 10:12 PM


"someone" wrote in message
...

I am thinking to put some 5/16" hardwood floor on my stairs.
I have to cut off the nose from the 1" ply treads in order
to put the hardwood nose on it.

Some web site I visited suggested to cut the nose with a
circular saw. But I did some cutting with a cheap ($40) Sears
Craftsman circular saw before,and I never cut anything straight,
both horizontally and vertically. I wonder if it would make a
difference with a more expensive one. And I would avoid to use
the circular saw if I can.

Would a cheap reuter or recip saw cut the 1" ply nose? I don't
have much experience with wordwork. But I can't find a contractor
just doing that.



Of the tools you mentioned, the circ saw with a rip guide, sharp blade and
slow motion will cut the straightest line. I take it these are open stairs?
I ask because a circ saw is going to stop cutting about 1.25" from a
perpendicular wall or obstruction.

Colbyt



someone November 17th 04 10:29 PM

Colbyt wrote:
"someone" wrote in message
...

I am thinking to put some 5/16" hardwood floor on my stairs.
I have to cut off the nose from the 1" ply treads in order
to put the hardwood nose on it.

Some web site I visited suggested to cut the nose with a
circular saw. But I did some cutting with a cheap ($40) Sears
Craftsman circular saw before,and I never cut anything straight,
both horizontally and vertically. I wonder if it would make a
difference with a more expensive one. And I would avoid to use
the circular saw if I can.

Would a cheap reuter or recip saw cut the 1" ply nose? I don't
have much experience with wordwork. But I can't find a contractor
just doing that.




Of the tools you mentioned, the circ saw with a rip guide, sharp blade and
slow motion will cut the straightest line. I take it these are open stairs?
I ask because a circ saw is going to stop cutting about 1.25" from a
perpendicular wall or obstruction.

Colbyt




Thanks.

The stair I have is not open. There are stringers on both sides.

Aside from being a bit nervious on circular saw, I am also concerned
that I might cut into a riser below when cutting the nose off.

Do a good curcular saw ($100+) and the cheap one I have ($40) make big
difference for this job? What is the difference between them anyway?


Roger November 18th 04 12:58 AM


I am thinking to put some 5/16" hardwood floor on my stairs.
I have to cut off the nose from the 1" ply treads in order
to put the hardwood nose on it.

Some web site I visited suggested to cut the nose with a
circular saw. But I did some cutting with a cheap ($40) Sears
Craftsman circular saw before,and I never cut anything straight,
both horizontally and vertically. I wonder if it would make a
difference with a more expensive one. And I would avoid to use
the circular saw if I can.


rec.woodworking is a good newsgroup for this kind of question.



Bob K 207 November 18th 04 05:51 AM


I am thinking to put some 5/16" hardwood floor on my stairs.
I have to cut off the nose from the 1" ply treads in order
to put the hardwood nose on it.



Every power tool I can think of will stop cutting when the body of the runs
into the side of the stairs. A good circular saw is a good choice; forget the
recip saw.

You could rough cut it with the cheap circular saw & then finish up with a
flush cutting router bit that has bearing to guide against the lower riser.

You still have to contend with the "un-cut" section at each end of the tread.

Sharp chisel & patience could do the end work. How many treads? 12?

since you're covering the treads with flooring, could you pull out the treads &
rip the nose off on a table saw & re-install?

Bob

Charles Spitzer November 18th 04 04:42 PM


"Bob K 207" wrote in message
...

I am thinking to put some 5/16" hardwood floor on my stairs.
I have to cut off the nose from the 1" ply treads in order
to put the hardwood nose on it.



Every power tool I can think of will stop cutting when the body of the
runs
into the side of the stairs. A good circular saw is a good choice; forget
the
recip saw.

You could rough cut it with the cheap circular saw & then finish up with a
flush cutting router bit that has bearing to guide against the lower
riser.

You still have to contend with the "un-cut" section at each end of the
tread.

Sharp chisel & patience could do the end work. How many treads? 12?

since you're covering the treads with flooring, could you pull out the
treads &
rip the nose off on a table saw & re-install?

Bob


rough cut it, then shape using a belt sander. they make sanders that can get
very close to edges (using a very small front roller). be prepared for an
immense amount of dust.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az



someone November 18th 04 05:11 PM

Charles Spitzer wrote:
"Bob K 207" wrote in message
...

I am thinking to put some 5/16" hardwood floor on my stairs.
I have to cut off the nose from the 1" ply treads in order
to put the hardwood nose on it.



Every power tool I can think of will stop cutting when the body of the
runs
into the side of the stairs. A good circular saw is a good choice; forget
the
recip saw.

You could rough cut it with the cheap circular saw & then finish up with a
flush cutting router bit that has bearing to guide against the lower
riser.

You still have to contend with the "un-cut" section at each end of the
tread.

Sharp chisel & patience could do the end work. How many treads? 12?

since you're covering the treads with flooring, could you pull out the
treads &
rip the nose off on a table saw & re-install?

Bob



rough cut it, then shape using a belt sander. they make sanders that can get
very close to edges (using a very small front roller). be prepared for an
immense amount of dust.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az



I am dealing with a ply stair, so I can't chisel. Sanding out that last
part is not easy, I guess.

What I was thinking is use a drill bit (drill saw) and cut through the
parts near the stringers. Then sand off the rough part.

I have 12 treads. This is a stair to the basement.If this is successful,
I'll try to rip out the carpet on the stair leading to the upper floor,
and put the hardwood in.

What kind of router do you think I should get, considering this is one
or two time job? I am still trying to avoid using a circular saw for
this job.

Do you think 5/16" hardwoord at:
http://www.ifloor.com/productdisplay...101499&N=3+138
is a good choice for stair?

Thanks.

y.


Joe Bobst November 18th 04 05:30 PM

a circ saw is going to stop cutting about 1.25" from a
perpendicular wall or obstruction.

Finish it off with a flush cut handsaw, HTH

Joe


max November 18th 04 06:33 PM

Why don't you take some 3/4 stock and use a 3/4 ball bit and route the curve
of the bullnose in reverse and then nail and glue it on and then sand it
flat.
max
Charles Spitzer wrote:
"Bob K 207" wrote in message
...

I am thinking to put some 5/16" hardwood floor on my stairs.
I have to cut off the nose from the 1" ply treads in order
to put the hardwood nose on it.



Every power tool I can think of will stop cutting when the body of the
runs
into the side of the stairs. A good circular saw is a good choice; forget
the
recip saw.

You could rough cut it with the cheap circular saw & then finish up with a
flush cutting router bit that has bearing to guide against the lower
riser.

You still have to contend with the "un-cut" section at each end of the
tread.

Sharp chisel & patience could do the end work. How many treads? 12?

since you're covering the treads with flooring, could you pull out the
treads &
rip the nose off on a table saw & re-install?

Bob



rough cut it, then shape using a belt sander. they make sanders that can get
very close to edges (using a very small front roller). be prepared for an
immense amount of dust.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az



I am dealing with a ply stair, so I can't chisel. Sanding out that last
part is not easy, I guess.

What I was thinking is use a drill bit (drill saw) and cut through the
parts near the stringers. Then sand off the rough part.

I have 12 treads. This is a stair to the basement.If this is successful,
I'll try to rip out the carpet on the stair leading to the upper floor,
and put the hardwood in.

What kind of router do you think I should get, considering this is one
or two time job? I am still trying to avoid using a circular saw for
this job.

Do you think 5/16" hardwoord at:
http://www.ifloor.com/productdisplay...101499&N=3+138
is a good choice for stair?

Thanks.

y.



Dave jackson November 18th 04 11:02 PM

Bosch makes a real nice flush trimming saw....

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...?v=glance&s=hi

I love the thing, it can boldly go where no saw has gone before. Although
i've never tried it on stair nosing, it has been used to cut hundreds of
factory interior window sills out to make way for our custom sills. Nice
clean even
cuts flush to the jamb. I use it for undercutting casing / doorjambs to
make way for tile or hardwood floors to. Check it out, it's a
eeper! --dave

"someone" wrote in message
...
Charles Spitzer wrote:
"Bob K 207" wrote in message
...

I am thinking to put some 5/16" hardwood floor on my stairs.
I have to cut off the nose from the 1" ply treads in order
to put the hardwood nose on it.



Every power tool I can think of will stop cutting when the body of the
runs
into the side of the stairs. A good circular saw is a good choice;
forget the
recip saw.

You could rough cut it with the cheap circular saw & then finish up with
a
flush cutting router bit that has bearing to guide against the lower
riser.

You still have to contend with the "un-cut" section at each end of the
tread.

Sharp chisel & patience could do the end work. How many treads? 12?

since you're covering the treads with flooring, could you pull out the
treads &
rip the nose off on a table saw & re-install?

Bob



rough cut it, then shape using a belt sander. they make sanders that can
get very close to edges (using a very small front roller). be prepared
for an immense amount of dust.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az



I am dealing with a ply stair, so I can't chisel. Sanding out that last
part is not easy, I guess.

What I was thinking is use a drill bit (drill saw) and cut through the
parts near the stringers. Then sand off the rough part.

I have 12 treads. This is a stair to the basement.If this is successful,
I'll try to rip out the carpet on the stair leading to the upper floor,
and put the hardwood in.

What kind of router do you think I should get, considering this is one or
two time job? I am still trying to avoid using a circular saw for this
job.

Do you think 5/16" hardwoord at:
http://www.ifloor.com/productdisplay...101499&N=3+138
is a good choice for stair?

Thanks.

y.




mp November 18th 04 11:15 PM

I love the thing, it can boldly go where no saw has gone before. Although
i've never tried it on stair nosing, it has been used to cut hundreds of
factory interior window sills out to make way for our custom sills. Nice
clean even
cuts flush to the jamb. I use it for undercutting casing / doorjambs to
make way for tile or hardwood floors to. Check it out, it's a
eper! --dave


They look pretty good. What kind of life do you get out of the blades?



Dave jackson November 18th 04 11:47 PM

The blades are about $10 and do last a while- I can cut about 40+
windowsills out before replacing it. Although, being a fine thin kerfed
blade they are somewhat like a Japanese pull saw in the fact that one nail
can really do some damage to the teeth in short order. Get a few extra
blades when you find them. They are not the easiest things to find (at
least in my area) --dave
"mp" wrote in message
...
I love the thing, it can boldly go where no saw has gone before.
Although i've never tried it on stair nosing, it has been used to cut
hundreds of factory interior window sills out to make way for our custom
sills. Nice clean even
cuts flush to the jamb. I use it for undercutting casing / doorjambs to
make way for tile or hardwood floors to. Check it out, it's a
per! --dave


They look pretty good. What kind of life do you get out of the blades?




mp November 19th 04 01:59 AM

The blades are about $10 and do last a while- I can cut about 40+
windowsills out before replacing it. Although, being a fine thin kerfed
blade they are somewhat like a Japanese pull saw in the fact that one nail
can really do some damage to the teeth in short order. Get a few extra
blades when you find them. They are not the easiest things to find (at
least in my area) --dave


Thanks. The reason I was asking is that one of the local stores sells the
blades for $18 and at that price I'd hope they last a while. I always shop
local if I can but sometimes the stores get a bit greedy.



Keith[_19_] August 30th 16 10:44 PM

What tool to use to cut stair nose?
 
replying to mp, Keith wrote:
The cheapest and best way I've found is : either borrow or buy a sawsall with
a course blade. Cut in the middle of the riser and angle your saw to the right
or left which ever you want to start, and just follow your stair tread to the
end, now, when you get to the end bring the handle DOWN slowly and use the tip
or end of the blade to finish the cut. Then turn around and do the same on the
other end of the nose. Don't make something simple hard. IF you move away from
your riser a little you can trim it closer with the sawzall OR use you
circular saw to trim it flush.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...se-568353-.htm



Keith[_19_] August 30th 16 10:44 PM

What tool to use to cut stair nose?
 
replying to mp, Keith wrote:
The best way I've found, is borrow or buy a sawzall with a course wood cutting
blade, look at the face of the overhang and make a cut toward the riser and
angle your cut left or right which ever way your starting untill you come to
the riser and follow it to the end or as close as you can get, then lower the
handle of your saw and use the tip of the blade to finish the cut. Then turn
around and do the same of the other half of the nose. Don't worry yourself if
your not completely flush with the riser, you can go back either with you
sawzall, circular saw or jigsaw and flush it up, by then you'll be able to see
exactly how much to take off to make things flush. I would start at the bottom
step so if there is a small mistake it won't be noticeable.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...se-568353-.htm



Uncle Monster[_2_] August 30th 16 11:06 PM

What tool to use to cut stair nose?
 
On Tuesday, August 30, 2016 at 3:44:05 PM UTC-5, Keith wrote:
replying to mp, Keith wrote:
The best way I've found, is borrow or buy a sawzall with a course wood cutting
blade, look at the face of the overhang and make a cut toward the riser and
angle your cut left or right which ever way your starting untill you come to
the riser and follow it to the end or as close as you can get, then lower the
handle of your saw and use the tip of the blade to finish the cut. Then turn
around and do the same of the other half of the nose. Don't worry yourself if
your not completely flush with the riser, you can go back either with you
sawzall, circular saw or jigsaw and flush it up, by then you'll be able to see
exactly how much to take off to make things flush. I would start at the bottom
step so if there is a small mistake it won't be noticeable.
--


Unfortunately, 12 years ago, mp borrowed a saw and while he was using it to cut some wood, the saw got away from him and cut his head off. It was a terrible tragedy. He was survived by a wife, 4 ex-wives, 22 children and 847 gerbils. The gerbils missed him so much that they all committed suicide by jumping one by one into a meat grinder. It was a tragic mess. 8-(

[8~{} Uncle Sad Monster

FrozenNorth[_9_] August 30th 16 11:22 PM

What tool to use to cut stair nose?
 
On 2016-08-30 5:06 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Tuesday, August 30, 2016 at 3:44:05 PM UTC-5, Keith wrote:
replying to mp, Keith wrote:
The best way I've found, is borrow or buy a sawzall with a course wood cutting
blade, look at the face of the overhang and make a cut toward the riser and
angle your cut left or right which ever way your starting untill you come to
the riser and follow it to the end or as close as you can get, then lower the
handle of your saw and use the tip of the blade to finish the cut. Then turn
around and do the same of the other half of the nose. Don't worry yourself if
your not completely flush with the riser, you can go back either with you
sawzall, circular saw or jigsaw and flush it up, by then you'll be able to see
exactly how much to take off to make things flush. I would start at the bottom
step so if there is a small mistake it won't be noticeable.
--


Unfortunately, 12 years ago, mp borrowed a saw and while he was using it to cut some wood, the saw got away from him and cut his head off. It was a terrible tragedy. He was survived by a wife, 4 ex-wives, 22 children and 847 gerbils. The gerbils missed him so much that they all committed suicide by jumping one by one into a meat grinder. It was a tragic mess. 8-(

But his nose rail looks fabulous. :-)


--
Froz....

Ed M[_3_] March 30th 17 10:14 PM

What tool to use to cut stair nose?
 
replying to someone, Ed M wrote:
How about if you first scribe a line where you want to make your cut, nail a
temporary straight edge to the tread as a circular saw guide. Slowly lower
your circular saw onto the cutting line and cut as far as you can toward the
wall. Finish the cut with an oscillating tool.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...se-568353-.htm



DerbyDad03 March 31st 17 05:09 AM

What tool to use to cut stair nose?
 
On Thursday, March 30, 2017 at 4:14:05 PM UTC-4, Ed M wrote:
replying to someone, Ed M wrote:
How about if you first scribe a line where you want to make your cut, nail a
temporary straight edge to the tread as a circular saw guide. Slowly lower
your circular saw onto the cutting line and cut as far as you can toward the
wall. Finish the cut with an oscillating tool.


13 years later, we have an answer. I'm sure the OP will be very happy to
finally get the job completed.


gene morgan April 15th 18 05:14 PM

What tool to use to cut stair nose?
 
replying to Dave jackson, gene morgan wrote:
I would consider just applying the thin hardwood on the risers after
refinishing the treads if you are determined to use the hardwood( in my
opinion stairs look better with stained treads and painted risers ) just
saying ... And stairs always look better with a bull nose on the front even
when they are carpeted ... Old retired finish carpenter!

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...se-568353-.htm



Graciez May 6th 18 08:14 AM

What tool to use to cut stair nose?
 
replying to DerbyDad03, Graciez wrote:
Would a dremel ultra saw do the job with flush cuts along the riser and
against the wall at the end?

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...se-568353-.htm




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