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Chuck
 
Posts: n/a
Default Help. Furnace improperly installed?

My 7 month old high-efficiency gas furnace recently broke down. I
awoke to hear the motor running, but the furnace wouldn't ignite. I
called a repairman.

The guy blew some water out of the air switch and told me that the
furnace had been installed wrong. The furnace was tilted away from the
drain. Somehow, this was causing condensation from the heat exchanger
to enter the air switch.

He didn't stop there.

He noted that the furnace was relighting before the cycle was
complete. He told me that the heat exchanger was in danger of
over-heating. His explanation:
when the furnace was installed, a rear filter cabinet was used. The
manual confirms that this particular furnace should have a bottom or
side filter cabinet. Since a rear FT was used, the air flow is being
restricted by a "squirrel cage???" in the back that blocks most of the
area in front of the filter. He went on the say that in addition to
flooded air-switches and broken heat-exchangers, this is gobbling up
lots of gas and also explains why my second floor doesn't receive much
heat.

Does this sound right??

I don't trust this guy. In addition to trying to avoid giving me a
receipt and asking that his check be made out to "CASH", he also won't
keep his promise to write up a description of the problem for my
realitor (she had the furnace replaced, and needs this before she is
willing to act).

Regardless, I don't know if he's lying about the furnace. Thanks in
advance for advice.

Furnace is: Crown Boiler model UCA 108 NH5R High-efficiency upflow
furnace.
  #2   Report Post  
PrecisionMachinisT
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Chuck" wrote in message
om...
My 7 month old high-efficiency gas furnace recently broke down. I
awoke to hear the motor running, but the furnace wouldn't ignite. I
called a repairman.

The guy blew some water out of the air switch and told me that the
furnace had been installed wrong. The furnace was tilted away from the
drain. Somehow, this was causing condensation from the heat exchanger
to enter the air switch.

He didn't stop there.

He noted that the furnace was relighting before the cycle was
complete. He told me that the heat exchanger was in danger of
over-heating. His explanation:
when the furnace was installed, a rear filter cabinet was used. The
manual confirms that this particular furnace should have a bottom or
side filter cabinet. Since a rear FT was used, the air flow is being
restricted by a "squirrel cage???" in the back that blocks most of the
area in front of the filter. He went on the say that in addition to
flooded air-switches and broken heat-exchangers, this is gobbling up
lots of gas and also explains why my second floor doesn't receive much
heat.

Does this sound right??

I don't trust this guy. In addition to trying to avoid giving me a
receipt and asking that his check be made out to "CASH", he also won't
keep his promise to write up a description of the problem for my
realitor (she had the furnace replaced, and needs this before she is
willing to act).

Regardless, I don't know if he's lying about the furnace. Thanks in
advance for advice.

Furnace is: Crown Boiler model UCA 108 NH5R High-efficiency upflow
furnace.


This is one of the more dumber ones I seen here in a while--no disrespect,
but you only had it installed for seven months and there are already
problems.........who in the hell put the system in, who sold it to them and
who is listed on the warranty paperwork ???

Talk to the installer, not some hack off the street.

--

SVL





  #3   Report Post  
HeatMan
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"PrecisionMachinisT" wrote in message
...

"Chuck" wrote in message
om...
My 7 month old high-efficiency gas furnace recently broke down. I
awoke to hear the motor running, but the furnace wouldn't ignite. I
called a repairman.

The guy blew some water out of the air switch and told me that the
furnace had been installed wrong. The furnace was tilted away from the
drain. Somehow, this was causing condensation from the heat exchanger
to enter the air switch.

He didn't stop there.

He noted that the furnace was relighting before the cycle was
complete. He told me that the heat exchanger was in danger of
over-heating. His explanation:
when the furnace was installed, a rear filter cabinet was used. The
manual confirms that this particular furnace should have a bottom or
side filter cabinet. Since a rear FT was used, the air flow is being
restricted by a "squirrel cage???" in the back that blocks most of the
area in front of the filter. He went on the say that in addition to
flooded air-switches and broken heat-exchangers, this is gobbling up
lots of gas and also explains why my second floor doesn't receive much
heat.

Does this sound right??

I don't trust this guy. In addition to trying to avoid giving me a
receipt and asking that his check be made out to "CASH", he also won't
keep his promise to write up a description of the problem for my
realitor (she had the furnace replaced, and needs this before she is
willing to act).

Regardless, I don't know if he's lying about the furnace. Thanks in
advance for advice.

Furnace is: Crown Boiler model UCA 108 NH5R High-efficiency upflow
furnace.


This is one of the more dumber ones I seen here in a while--no disrespect,
but you only had it installed for seven months and there are already
problems.........who in the hell put the system in, who sold it to them

and
who is listed on the warranty paperwork ???

Talk to the installer, not some hack off the street.



Problem is, this hack or his company may have installed the boiler. Or is
it a FA furnace?


  #4   Report Post  
HeatMan
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Chuck" wrote in message
om...
My 7 month old high-efficiency gas furnace recently broke down. I
awoke to hear the motor running, but the furnace wouldn't ignite. I
called a repairman.

The guy blew some water out of the air switch and told me that the
furnace had been installed wrong. The furnace was tilted away from the
drain. Somehow, this was causing condensation from the heat exchanger
to enter the air switch.

He didn't stop there.

He noted that the furnace was relighting before the cycle was
complete. He told me that the heat exchanger was in danger of
over-heating. His explanation:
when the furnace was installed, a rear filter cabinet was used. The
manual confirms that this particular furnace should have a bottom or
side filter cabinet. Since a rear FT was used, the air flow is being
restricted by a "squirrel cage???" in the back that blocks most of the
area in front of the filter. He went on the say that in addition to
flooded air-switches and broken heat-exchangers, this is gobbling up
lots of gas and also explains why my second floor doesn't receive much
heat.

Does this sound right??

I don't trust this guy. In addition to trying to avoid giving me a
receipt and asking that his check be made out to "CASH", he also won't
keep his promise to write up a description of the problem for my
realitor (she had the furnace replaced, and needs this before she is
willing to act).

Regardless, I don't know if he's lying about the furnace. Thanks in
advance for advice.

Furnace is: Crown Boiler model UCA 108 NH5R High-efficiency upflow
furnace.


http://www.crownboiler.com/products/warm_gas/90up2.asp

First off, I didn't know Crown made FA furnaces. You learn something new
every day.

Some units can't use the rear returns. I don't have the manual and can't
open it on this computer.

I have seen water in the pressure switches before and it does cause a
problem.

Finally, I wouldn't think much of a guy for a check made out to cash. He's
a crook or a hack. Find the installer.


  #5   Report Post  
Chuck
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"PrecisionMachinisT" wrote in message ...
"Chuck" wrote in message
om...
My 7 month old high-efficiency gas furnace recently broke down. I
awoke to hear the motor running, but the furnace wouldn't ignite. I
called a repairman.

The guy blew some water out of the air switch and told me that the
furnace had been installed wrong. The furnace was tilted away from the
drain. Somehow, this was causing condensation from the heat exchanger
to enter the air switch.

He didn't stop there.

He noted that the furnace was relighting before the cycle was
complete. He told me that the heat exchanger was in danger of
over-heating. His explanation:
when the furnace was installed, a rear filter cabinet was used. The
manual confirms that this particular furnace should have a bottom or
side filter cabinet. Since a rear FT was used, the air flow is being
restricted by a "squirrel cage???" in the back that blocks most of the
area in front of the filter. He went on the say that in addition to
flooded air-switches and broken heat-exchangers, this is gobbling up
lots of gas and also explains why my second floor doesn't receive much
heat.

Does this sound right??

I don't trust this guy. In addition to trying to avoid giving me a
receipt and asking that his check be made out to "CASH", he also won't
keep his promise to write up a description of the problem for my
realitor (she had the furnace replaced, and needs this before she is
willing to act).

Regardless, I don't know if he's lying about the furnace. Thanks in
advance for advice.

Furnace is: Crown Boiler model UCA 108 NH5R High-efficiency upflow
furnace.


This is one of the more dumber ones I seen here in a while--no disrespect,
but you only had it installed for seven months and there are already
problems.........who in the hell put the system in, who sold it to them and
who is listed on the warranty paperwork ???

Talk to the installer, not some hack off the street.


The reason I didn't go back to the installer is because after the guy
installed the furnace (I hadn't moved in yet, and was still out of
state), I asked if he could come back and go over his work with me.
He bluntly told me he was busy and unused to having to come back and
explain how furnaces work.

Since the guy was such an insulting dick, I didn't want the asshole
back in my house.

Besides, if he came back, he would justify his own work, and possibly
endanger me and my family to avoid having to do free work.

I feel I did the right thing by seeking an independent opinion. I
just didn't count on the next guy being as big an asshole as the first
guy.

Before I made my next move, I wanted to seek some information from
people more knowledgeable about furnaces than I am.

So, now, please tell me why my question is so dumb.


  #6   Report Post  
Chuck
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"HeatMan" wrote in message news:KRMdd.38579
http://www.crownboiler.com/products/warm_gas/90up2.asp

First off, I didn't know Crown made FA furnaces. You learn something new
every day.


Yup. Model UCA 108 NH5R.

Some units can't use the rear returns. I don't have the manual and can't
open it on this computer.


I have the manual. It says a bottom or side filter cabinet is the way
to go, but it doesn't mention what NOT to get, so I don't know if a
rear filter cabinet CAN'T be used.

I have seen water in the pressure switches before and it does cause a
problem.


Is this problem usually due to a furnace being tilted away from the
drain, or are there other explanations for this?
  #7   Report Post  
PrecisionMachinisT
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Chuck" wrote in message
om...
"PrecisionMachinisT" wrote in message

...
"Chuck" wrote in message
om...
My 7 month old high-efficiency gas furnace recently broke down. I
awoke to hear the motor running, but the furnace wouldn't ignite. I
called a repairman.

The guy blew some water out of the air switch and told me that the
furnace had been installed wrong. The furnace was tilted away from the
drain. Somehow, this was causing condensation from the heat exchanger
to enter the air switch.

He didn't stop there.

He noted that the furnace was relighting before the cycle was
complete. He told me that the heat exchanger was in danger of
over-heating. His explanation:
when the furnace was installed, a rear filter cabinet was used. The
manual confirms that this particular furnace should have a bottom or
side filter cabinet. Since a rear FT was used, the air flow is being
restricted by a "squirrel cage???" in the back that blocks most of the
area in front of the filter. He went on the say that in addition to
flooded air-switches and broken heat-exchangers, this is gobbling up
lots of gas and also explains why my second floor doesn't receive much
heat.

Does this sound right??

I don't trust this guy. In addition to trying to avoid giving me a
receipt and asking that his check be made out to "CASH", he also won't
keep his promise to write up a description of the problem for my
realitor (she had the furnace replaced, and needs this before she is
willing to act).

Regardless, I don't know if he's lying about the furnace. Thanks in
advance for advice.

Furnace is: Crown Boiler model UCA 108 NH5R High-efficiency upflow
furnace.


This is one of the more dumber ones I seen here in a while--no

disrespect,
but you only had it installed for seven months and there are already
problems.........who in the hell put the system in, who sold it to them

and
who is listed on the warranty paperwork ???

Talk to the installer, not some hack off the street.


The reason I didn't go back to the installer is because after the guy
installed the furnace (I hadn't moved in yet, and was still out of
state), I asked if he could come back and go over his work with me.
He bluntly told me he was busy and unused to having to come back and
explain how furnaces work.

Since the guy was such an insulting dick, I didn't want the asshole
back in my house.

Besides, if he came back, he would justify his own work, and possibly
endanger me and my family to avoid having to do free work.

I feel I did the right thing by seeking an independent opinion. I
just didn't count on the next guy being as big an asshole as the first
guy.

Before I made my next move, I wanted to seek some information from
people more knowledgeable about furnaces than I am.

So, now, please tell me why my question is so dumb.


Okay, with this explanation, now it doesnt seem so dumb anymore.

I know little to nothing about boilers my self, but if you arent comfortable
with the second guy, then I suggest you should get a third guy in to look at
it pronto, and correct any safety issues that might exist.

Good luck.

--

SVL




  #8   Report Post  
HeatMan
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Chuck" wrote in message
om...
"PrecisionMachinisT" wrote in message

...
"Chuck" wrote in message
om...
My 7 month old high-efficiency gas furnace recently broke down. I
awoke to hear the motor running, but the furnace wouldn't ignite. I
called a repairman.

The guy blew some water out of the air switch and told me that the
furnace had been installed wrong. The furnace was tilted away from the
drain. Somehow, this was causing condensation from the heat exchanger
to enter the air switch.

He didn't stop there.

He noted that the furnace was relighting before the cycle was
complete. He told me that the heat exchanger was in danger of
over-heating. His explanation:
when the furnace was installed, a rear filter cabinet was used. The
manual confirms that this particular furnace should have a bottom or
side filter cabinet. Since a rear FT was used, the air flow is being
restricted by a "squirrel cage???" in the back that blocks most of the
area in front of the filter. He went on the say that in addition to
flooded air-switches and broken heat-exchangers, this is gobbling up
lots of gas and also explains why my second floor doesn't receive much
heat.

Does this sound right??

I don't trust this guy. In addition to trying to avoid giving me a
receipt and asking that his check be made out to "CASH", he also won't
keep his promise to write up a description of the problem for my
realitor (she had the furnace replaced, and needs this before she is
willing to act).

Regardless, I don't know if he's lying about the furnace. Thanks in
advance for advice.

Furnace is: Crown Boiler model UCA 108 NH5R High-efficiency upflow
furnace.


This is one of the more dumber ones I seen here in a while--no

disrespect,
but you only had it installed for seven months and there are already
problems.........who in the hell put the system in, who sold it to them

and
who is listed on the warranty paperwork ???

Talk to the installer, not some hack off the street.


The reason I didn't go back to the installer is because after the guy
installed the furnace (I hadn't moved in yet, and was still out of
state), I asked if he could come back and go over his work with me.
He bluntly told me he was busy and unused to having to come back and
explain how furnaces work.

Since the guy was such an insulting dick, I didn't want the asshole
back in my house.

Besides, if he came back, he would justify his own work, and possibly
endanger me and my family to avoid having to do free work.


And the hack job he has done already isn't endangering anyone? .


  #9   Report Post  
HeatMan
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Chuck" wrote in message
om...
"HeatMan" wrote in message news:KRMdd.38579
http://www.crownboiler.com/products/warm_gas/90up2.asp

First off, I didn't know Crown made FA furnaces. You learn something

new
every day.


Yup. Model UCA 108 NH5R.


Hey, I went to the Crown website and saw it.


Some units can't use the rear returns. I don't have the manual and

can't
open it on this computer.


I have the manual. It says a bottom or side filter cabinet is the way
to go, but it doesn't mention what NOT to get, so I don't know if a
rear filter cabinet CAN'T be used.


Well, call Crown and talk to them. Ask them if a rear return can be used.

I have seen water in the pressure switches before and it does cause a
problem.


Is this problem usually due to a furnace being tilted away from the
drain, or are there other explanations for this?


Never heard of that as an explanation....


  #10   Report Post  
TURTLE
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Chuck" wrote in message
om...
My 7 month old high-efficiency gas furnace recently broke down. I
awoke to hear the motor running, but the furnace wouldn't ignite. I
called a repairman.

The guy blew some water out of the air switch and told me that the
furnace had been installed wrong. The furnace was tilted away from the
drain. Somehow, this was causing condensation from the heat exchanger
to enter the air switch.

He didn't stop there.

He noted that the furnace was relighting before the cycle was
complete. He told me that the heat exchanger was in danger of
over-heating. His explanation:
when the furnace was installed, a rear filter cabinet was used. The
manual confirms that this particular furnace should have a bottom or
side filter cabinet. Since a rear FT was used, the air flow is being
restricted by a "squirrel cage???" in the back that blocks most of the
area in front of the filter. He went on the say that in addition to
flooded air-switches and broken heat-exchangers, this is gobbling up
lots of gas and also explains why my second floor doesn't receive much
heat.

Does this sound right??

I don't trust this guy. In addition to trying to avoid giving me a
receipt and asking that his check be made out to "CASH", he also won't
keep his promise to write up a description of the problem for my
realitor (she had the furnace replaced, and needs this before she is
willing to act).

Regardless, I don't know if he's lying about the furnace. Thanks in
advance for advice.

Furnace is: Crown Boiler model UCA 108 NH5R High-efficiency upflow
furnace.


This is Turtle.

Well after reading the first thing the service tech said. I will say this . He
is full of it. The pressure switch does not fill up because the furnace is
tilted at any direction. It is cause by the pressure switch installed below the
vent blower housing and not above it where it is suppose to be installed. The
pressure switch comes in one place and has 3 or 4 options of place to install it
for it to be above the vent blower assembly. Install the pressure switch above
the vent blower assembly and shorten the tube to not let water form in it. If he
did not change the possion of the pressure switch you need to get the installer
or another real hvac tech out to set it where it is suppose to be at.

If a service tech starts out lying , i don't want to hear anything else he has
got to say.

These furnace if installed anywhere normally the way they are suppose to be.
They are very safe to operate.

TURTLE




  #11   Report Post  
Chuck
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"TURTLE" wrote in message ...

This is Turtle.

Well after reading the first thing the service tech said. I will say this . He
is full of it. The pressure switch does not fill up because the furnace is
tilted at any direction. It is cause by the pressure switch installed below the
vent blower housing and not above it where it is suppose to be installed. The
pressure switch comes in one place and has 3 or 4 options of place to install it
for it to be above the vent blower assembly. Install the pressure switch above
the vent blower assembly and shorten the tube to not let water form in it. If he
did not change the possion of the pressure switch you need to get the installer
or another real hvac tech out to set it where it is suppose to be at.

If a service tech starts out lying , i don't want to hear anything else he has
got to say.

These furnace if installed anywhere normally the way they are suppose to be.
They are very safe to operate.

TURTLE



Thanks. I didn't know about the pressure switch having to be above
the vent blower housing.
  #12   Report Post  
TURTLE
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Chuck" wrote in message
om...
"TURTLE" wrote in message
...

This is Turtle.

Well after reading the first thing the service tech said. I will say this .
He
is full of it. The pressure switch does not fill up because the furnace is
tilted at any direction. It is cause by the pressure switch installed below
the
vent blower housing and not above it where it is suppose to be installed. The
pressure switch comes in one place and has 3 or 4 options of place to install
it
for it to be above the vent blower assembly. Install the pressure switch
above
the vent blower assembly and shorten the tube to not let water form in it. If
he
did not change the possion of the pressure switch you need to get the
installer
or another real hvac tech out to set it where it is suppose to be at.

If a service tech starts out lying , i don't want to hear anything else he
has
got to say.

These furnace if installed anywhere normally the way they are suppose to be.
They are very safe to operate.

TURTLE



Thanks. I didn't know about the pressure switch having to be above
the vent blower housing.


This is Turtle.

The Pressure switch should be mounted above the vent blower housing for if any
moisture forms in the tube leading to it. When the furnace cuts off the water
will drain back into the vent blower wheel area to not plug the tubeing line up
with water. If the switch is below the blower housing water will not drain back
out from the switch and just fill up with water and stop working.

Read your installation instruction on all brands and it will tell you this to
do.

TURTLE


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