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Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
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#1
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Garage Door Opener Questions
My garage door is acting strange, and it's about 14 years old, so I plan to
replace it. Can someone help with the following questions? 1. What brands do you recommend? 2. Where's the best place to buy (Cosco, Home Depot, Sears, etc)? 3. How many horsepower do I need? I have a 2-car garage, with a door that rolls up, sheet metal, no insulation. In case anybody recommends fixing a 14 year old garage door rather than replacing, here's the symptoms (it's a Stanley brand opener with chain drive): A couple of days ago, the door started not shutting all the way. The first day it left a 1" gap, then the 2nd day about 2". On the 3rd day, when I was closing it, it only closed half way and then opened again, and it opened beyond the stop and the door actually hit the drive mechanism but I stopped it before it damaged the door. Can this type of problem be a simple re-calibration problem? I doubt it, and i'm afraid i'll damage the door or cause an unsafe situation if i just try to mess with it until it "seems" to work. thanks! Paul |
#2
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Krystonia5 wrote:
My garage door is acting strange, and it's about 14 years old, so I plan to replace it. Can someone help with the following questions? 1. What brands do you recommend? 2. Where's the best place to buy (Cosco, Home Depot, Sears, etc)? 3. How many horsepower do I need? I have a 2-car garage, with a door that rolls up, sheet metal, no insulation. In case anybody recommends fixing a 14 year old garage door rather than replacing, here's the symptoms (it's a Stanley brand opener with chain drive): A couple of days ago, the door started not shutting all the way. The first day it left a 1" gap, then the 2nd day about 2". On the 3rd day, when I was closing it, it only closed half way and then opened again, and it opened beyond the stop and the door actually hit the drive mechanism but I stopped it before it damaged the door. Can this type of problem be a simple re-calibration problem? I doubt it, and i'm afraid i'll damage the door or cause an unsafe situation if i just try to mess with it until it "seems" to work. thanks! Paul Hi, over the 14 years, have you done anything? Limit switches, chain streches over time, lubrication, etc. Also check the sprockets, and springs. Tony |
#4
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Chalk up another one for Chamberlain and those that it sells under other names,
listed here. This is what my door man said to me when I asked him the same thing. He gave me a thumbs down on extra horsepower openers (I guess provided you have a fairly normal sized door) if your opener and door were set up correctly. He gave a thumbs up to belt drive units and a thumbs down to Genie screw drive (it is a screw drive that they offer, correct?) He didn't like Genie in particular in all models, especially the screw drive models, citing noise developing on these as they aged. Hope this helps, Danny "G. Morgan" wrote: On 21 Oct 2004 01:12:38 GMT "Krystonia5" used 22 lines of text to write in newsgroup: alt.home.repair A couple of days ago, the door started not shutting all the way. The first day it left a 1" gap, then the 2nd day about 2". On the 3rd day, when I was closing it, it only closed half way and then opened again, and it opened beyond the stop and the door actually hit the drive mechanism but I stopped it before it damaged the door. Can this type of problem be a simple re-calibration problem? I doubt it, and i'm afraid i'll damage the door or cause an unsafe situation if i just try to mess with it until it "seems" to work. Those Stanley operators are junk. The tube rail was a bad idea then, and still is. The best opener is made by Chamberlain (lift-Master, Craftsman). The Lift-Master is preferable because it has a one piece rail. It sounds like the limit mechanism in your Stanley is toast. -Graham Remove the 'snails' from my email |
#5
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Danny wrote:
Chalk up another one for Chamberlain and those that it sells under other names, listed here. This is what my door man said to me when I asked him the same thing. He gave me a thumbs down on extra horsepower openers (I guess provided you have a fairly normal sized door) if your opener and door were set up correctly. He gave a thumbs up to belt drive units and a thumbs down to Genie screw drive (it is a screw drive that they offer, correct?) He didn't like Genie in particular in all models, especially the screw drive models, citing noise developing on these as they aged. Hope this helps, Danny "G. Morgan" wrote: On 21 Oct 2004 01:12:38 GMT "Krystonia5" used 22 lines of text to write in newsgroup: alt.home.repair A couple of days ago, the door started not shutting all the way. The first day it left a 1" gap, then the 2nd day about 2". On the 3rd day, when I was closing it, it only closed half way and then opened again, and it opened beyond the stop and the door actually hit the drive mechanism but I stopped it before it damaged the door. Can this type of problem be a simple re-calibration problem? I doubt it, and i'm afraid i'll damage the door or cause an unsafe situation if i just try to mess with it until it "seems" to work. Those Stanley operators are junk. The tube rail was a bad idea then, and still is. The best opener is made by Chamberlain (lift-Master, Craftsman). The Lift-Master is preferable because it has a one piece rail. It sounds like the limit mechanism in your Stanley is toast. -Graham Remove the 'snails' from my email Hmmm, My screw drive opener is 11 years old and still going strong. Never needed repair. Just spraying liquid wrench on the drive screw twice a year. Tony |
#6
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Some people put them in and forget them.
The noise they make as their lubrication fails reminds them that routine lube is a good thing. Might also apply to their sex life too. "Danny" wrote in message ... He didn't like Genie in particular in all models, especially the screw drive models, citing noise developing on these as they aged. |
#7
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But doesn't the liquid wrench sling onto the exterior of the door,I'll bet
it does leave a grease trail on the door. Tom "Tony Hwang" wrote in message news:7pp1e.808108$8l.721793@pd7tw1no... Danny wrote: Chalk up another one for Chamberlain and those that it sells under other names, listed here. This is what my door man said to me when I asked him the same thing. He gave me a thumbs down on extra horsepower openers (I guess provided you have a fairly normal sized door) if your opener and door were set up correctly. He gave a thumbs up to belt drive units and a thumbs down to Genie screw drive (it is a screw drive that they offer, correct?) He didn't like Genie in particular in all models, especially the screw drive models, citing noise developing on these as they aged. Hope this helps, Danny "G. Morgan" wrote: On 21 Oct 2004 01:12:38 GMT "Krystonia5" used 22 lines of text to write in newsgroup: alt.home.repair A couple of days ago, the door started not shutting all the way. The first day it left a 1" gap, then the 2nd day about 2". On the 3rd day, when I was closing it, it only closed half way and then opened again, and it opened beyond the stop and the door actually hit the drive mechanism but I stopped it before it damaged the door. Can this type of problem be a simple re-calibration problem? I doubt it, and i'm afraid i'll damage the door or cause an unsafe situation if i just try to mess with it until it "seems" to work. Those Stanley operators are junk. The tube rail was a bad idea then, and still is. The best opener is made by Chamberlain (lift-Master, Craftsman). The Lift-Master is preferable because it has a one piece rail. It sounds like the limit mechanism in your Stanley is toast. -Graham Remove the 'snails' from my email Hmmm, My screw drive opener is 11 years old and still going strong. Never needed repair. Just spraying liquid wrench on the drive screw twice a year. Tony |
#8
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He said he puts the Liquid Wrench on the screw drive. Nowhere close to the
door. I use lithium grease in exactly the same fashion, and I give a squirt into the outside locks at the same time. "twfsa" wrote in message news:7Qz1e.13080$%d7.220@lakeread03... But doesn't the liquid wrench sling onto the exterior of the door,I'll bet it does leave a grease trail on the door. Tom "Tony Hwang" wrote in message news:7pp1e.808108$8l.721793@pd7tw1no... Danny wrote: Chalk up another one for Chamberlain and those that it sells under other names, listed here. This is what my door man said to me when I asked him the same thing. He gave me a thumbs down on extra horsepower openers (I guess provided you have a fairly normal sized door) if your opener and door were set up correctly. He gave a thumbs up to belt drive units and a thumbs down to Genie screw drive (it is a screw drive that they offer, correct?) He didn't like Genie in particular in all models, especially the screw drive models, citing noise developing on these as they aged. Hope this helps, Danny "G. Morgan" wrote: On 21 Oct 2004 01:12:38 GMT "Krystonia5" used 22 lines of text to write in newsgroup: alt.home.repair A couple of days ago, the door started not shutting all the way. The first day it left a 1" gap, then the 2nd day about 2". On the 3rd day, when I was closing it, it only closed half way and then opened again, and it opened beyond the stop and the door actually hit the drive mechanism but I stopped it before it damaged the door. Can this type of problem be a simple re-calibration problem? I doubt it, and i'm afraid i'll damage the door or cause an unsafe situation if i just try to mess with it until it "seems" to work. Those Stanley operators are junk. The tube rail was a bad idea then, and still is. The best opener is made by Chamberlain (lift-Master, Craftsman). The Lift-Master is preferable because it has a one piece rail. It sounds like the limit mechanism in your Stanley is toast. -Graham Remove the 'snails' from my email Hmmm, My screw drive opener is 11 years old and still going strong. Never needed repair. Just spraying liquid wrench on the drive screw twice a year. Tony |
#9
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Our 7 year screw drive Genie works well but I found Genie lube in
small tube at HD. Annual application sparingly. On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 03:04:35 GMT, Tony Hwang wrote: Danny wrote: Chalk up another one for Chamberlain and those that it sells under other names, listed here. This is what my door man said to me when I asked him the same thing. He gave me a thumbs down on extra horsepower openers (I guess provided you have a fairly normal sized door) if your opener and door were set up correctly. He gave a thumbs up to belt drive units and a thumbs down to Genie screw drive (it is a screw drive that they offer, correct?) He didn't like Genie in particular in all models, especially the screw drive models, citing noise developing on these as they aged. Hope this helps, Danny "G. Morgan" wrote: On 21 Oct 2004 01:12:38 GMT "Krystonia5" used 22 lines of text to write in newsgroup: alt.home.repair A couple of days ago, the door started not shutting all the way. The first day it left a 1" gap, then the 2nd day about 2". On the 3rd day, when I was closing it, it only closed half way and then opened again, and it opened beyond the stop and the door actually hit the drive mechanism but I stopped it before it damaged the door. Can this type of problem be a simple re-calibration problem? I doubt it, and i'm afraid i'll damage the door or cause an unsafe situation if i just try to mess with it until it "seems" to work. Those Stanley operators are junk. The tube rail was a bad idea then, and still is. The best opener is made by Chamberlain (lift-Master, Craftsman). The Lift-Master is preferable because it has a one piece rail. It sounds like the limit mechanism in your Stanley is toast. -Graham Remove the 'snails' from my email Hmmm, My screw drive opener is 11 years old and still going strong. Never needed repair. Just spraying liquid wrench on the drive screw twice a year. Tony |
#10
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On Sat, 26 Mar 2005 20:56:12 -0500, Danny
wrote: Chalk up another one for Chamberlain and those that it sells under other names, listed here. This is what my door man said to me when I asked him the same thing. He gave me a thumbs down on extra horsepower openers (I guess provided you have a fairly normal sized door) if your opener and door were set up correctly. He gave a thumbs up to belt drive units and a thumbs down to Genie screw drive (it is a screw drive that they offer, correct?) He didn't like Genie in particular in all models, especially the screw drive models, citing noise developing on these as they aged. Hope this helps, Danny "G. Morgan" wrote: On 21 Oct 2004 01:12:38 GMT "Krystonia5" used 22 lines of text to write in newsgroup: alt.home.repair A couple of days ago, the door started not shutting all the way. The first day it left a 1" gap, then the 2nd day about 2". On the 3rd day, when I was closing it, it only closed half way and then opened again, and it opened beyond the stop and the door actually hit the drive mechanism but I stopped it before it damaged the door. Can this type of problem be a simple re-calibration problem? I doubt it, and i'm afraid i'll damage the door or cause an unsafe situation if i just try to mess with it until it "seems" to work. Those Stanley operators are junk. The tube rail was a bad idea then, and still is. The best opener is made by Chamberlain (lift-Master, Craftsman). The Lift-Master is preferable because it has a one piece rail. It sounds like the limit mechanism in your Stanley is toast. -Graham Remove the 'snails' from my email Faced with the same situation a few years ago I opted to go with OverHead Door's "Phantom" units (perhaps owned/made by Alliance). These units are the belt drive units and I can honestly say they are the quietes door openers I've ever heard. Our doors are located directly under the master bedroom and I can actually sneak out in the early AM without waking my spouse. |
#11
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"Bob_M" wrote in message ... Faced with the same situation a few years ago I opted to go with OverHead Door's "Phantom" units (perhaps owned/made by Alliance). These units are the belt drive units and I can honestly say they are the quietes door openers I've ever heard. You ain't heard nothing yet until you have heard a Marantec "MacLift" opener. My new house has one and it is silent. DC motor with programmable acceleration/deceleration rates, LED troubleshooting, etc. This is one damn nice opener! |
#12
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Yeh, but as the door raises, it comes with in 20 inches of the screw drive
when the door is up or fully opened. Tom "Michael Baugh" wrote in message . .. He said he puts the Liquid Wrench on the screw drive. Nowhere close to the door. I use lithium grease in exactly the same fashion, and I give a squirt into the outside locks at the same time. "twfsa" wrote in message news:7Qz1e.13080$%d7.220@lakeread03... But doesn't the liquid wrench sling onto the exterior of the door,I'll bet it does leave a grease trail on the door. Tom "Tony Hwang" wrote in message news:7pp1e.808108$8l.721793@pd7tw1no... Danny wrote: Chalk up another one for Chamberlain and those that it sells under other names, listed here. This is what my door man said to me when I asked him the same thing. He gave me a thumbs down on extra horsepower openers (I guess provided you have a fairly normal sized door) if your opener and door were set up correctly. He gave a thumbs up to belt drive units and a thumbs down to Genie screw drive (it is a screw drive that they offer, correct?) He didn't like Genie in particular in all models, especially the screw drive models, citing noise developing on these as they aged. Hope this helps, Danny "G. Morgan" wrote: On 21 Oct 2004 01:12:38 GMT "Krystonia5" used 22 lines of text to write in newsgroup: alt.home.repair A couple of days ago, the door started not shutting all the way. The first day it left a 1" gap, then the 2nd day about 2". On the 3rd day, when I was closing it, it only closed half way and then opened again, and it opened beyond the stop and the door actually hit the drive mechanism but I stopped it before it damaged the door. Can this type of problem be a simple re-calibration problem? I doubt it, and i'm afraid i'll damage the door or cause an unsafe situation if i just try to mess with it until it "seems" to work. Those Stanley operators are junk. The tube rail was a bad idea then, and still is. The best opener is made by Chamberlain (lift-Master, Craftsman). The Lift-Master is preferable because it has a one piece rail. It sounds like the limit mechanism in your Stanley is toast. -Graham Remove the 'snails' from my email Hmmm, My screw drive opener is 11 years old and still going strong. Never needed repair. Just spraying liquid wrench on the drive screw twice a year. Tony |
#13
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the genie screwdrives need to be lubed a bit after a while (I did it
after a year) This makes them a lot more quiet. they sell kits at HD with cold and hot weather grease and a spraycan for the hinges. On Sat, 26 Mar 2005 20:56:12 -0500, Danny wrote: Chalk up another one for Chamberlain and those that it sells under other names, listed here. This is what my door man said to me when I asked him the same thing. He gave me a thumbs down on extra horsepower openers (I guess provided you have a fairly normal sized door) if your opener and door were set up correctly. He gave a thumbs up to belt drive units and a thumbs down to Genie screw drive (it is a screw drive that they offer, correct?) He didn't like Genie in particular in all models, especially the screw drive models, citing noise developing on these as they aged. Hope this helps, Danny "G. Morgan" wrote: On 21 Oct 2004 01:12:38 GMT "Krystonia5" used 22 lines of text to write in newsgroup: alt.home.repair A couple of days ago, the door started not shutting all the way. The first day it left a 1" gap, then the 2nd day about 2". On the 3rd day, when I was closing it, it only closed half way and then opened again, and it opened beyond the stop and the door actually hit the drive mechanism but I stopped it before it damaged the door. Can this type of problem be a simple re-calibration problem? I doubt it, and i'm afraid i'll damage the door or cause an unsafe situation if i just try to mess with it until it "seems" to work. Those Stanley operators are junk. The tube rail was a bad idea then, and still is. The best opener is made by Chamberlain (lift-Master, Craftsman). The Lift-Master is preferable because it has a one piece rail. It sounds like the limit mechanism in your Stanley is toast. -Graham Remove the 'snails' from my email Remove NO-SPAM from email address when replying |
#14
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I got Genie lube for the screw drive at HD and use minimal amount
annually. At same time the pivot points in the door hardware get lubed also. Noisless. On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 17:21:15 -0700, RT wrote: the genie screwdrives need to be lubed a bit after a while (I did it after a year) This makes them a lot more quiet. they sell kits at HD with cold and hot weather grease and a spraycan for the hinges. |
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