The PVC toilet waste flange is now way too low with the new
floor/tile. How can I raise it an inch without cutting the PVC and
gluing a new flange (it's not accessible, so I can't cut it)? Should
I buy one of those extenders from HD and push it on? Won't that make
the waste hole thinner than 3"? Are they reliable? They say they
don't need a wax ring -- do I believe that, or should I place one on
top of it anyway? Is there a neat tool which I could use the cut the
PVC from the inside, then slide on a new PVC and glue it?
Thanks!

GeekBoy wrote:

The PVC toilet waste flange is now way too low with the new
floor/tile. How can I raise it an inch without cutting the PVC and
gluing a new flange (it's not accessible, so I can't cut it)? Should
I buy one of those extenders from HD and push it on? Won't that make
the waste hole thinner than 3"? Are they reliable? They say they
don't need a wax ring -- do I believe that, or should I place one on
top of it anyway? Is there a neat tool which I could use the cut the
PVC from the inside, then slide on a new PVC and glue it?
Thanks!

There is indeed a neat tool to cut the pipe from inside.
You'll probably have to ask at a plumbing supply house.
There is also a flange with an extended "neck" available
so that you can slip it right over the now shortened pipe.

I don't like to see closet connectors less than 3" used,
although 2" has been done successfully and many new toilets have
narrowed outlets.

There are "flange extenders" (Oatey) which you can layer on top
of the existing flange as another possible solution.

Jim

Speedy Jim wrote:
GeekBoy wrote:

The PVC toilet waste flange is now way too low with the new
floor/tile. How can I raise it an inch without cutting the PVC and
gluing a new flange (it's not accessible, so I can't cut it)? Should
I buy one of those extenders from HD and push it on? Won't that make
the waste hole thinner than 3"? Are they reliable? They say they
don't need a wax ring -- do I believe that, or should I place one on
top of it anyway? Is there a neat tool which I could use the cut the
PVC from the inside, then slide on a new PVC and glue it?
Thanks!

There is indeed a neat tool to cut the pipe from inside.
You'll probably have to ask at a plumbing supply house.
There is also a flange with an extended "neck" available
so that you can slip it right over the now shortened pipe.

I don't like to see closet connectors less than 3" used,
although 2" has been done successfully and many new toilets have
narrowed outlets.

There are "flange extenders" (Oatey) which you can layer on top
of the existing flange as another possible solution.

Jim

I recently had this same problem after laying tile. Lowe's had a flange
extender (just the collar without the short section of pipe attached)
for a few dollars. I found that you should also get a second wax gasket
and put it between the original flange and the extender. Run the bolts
up from the ORIGINAL flange, through the wax, through the extender to
secure the stool. Use the second wax gasket on the stool horn as per
the directions.

You may also, optionally, line up the screw holes on both flanges to
secure both of them to the subfloor. However this is not necessary as
the t-bolts will hold the whole thing tight.

Nary a leak has been found.

Chris

On Wed, 7 Jul 2004 22:20:10 +0000 (UTC), Chris
wrote:


I recently had this same problem after laying tile. Lowe's had a flange
extender (just the collar without the short section of pipe attached)
for a few dollars. I found that you should also get a second wax gasket
and put it between the original flange and the extender. Run the bolts
up from the ORIGINAL flange, through the wax, through the extender to
secure the stool. Use the second wax gasket on the stool horn as per
the directions.

You may also, optionally, line up the screw holes on both flanges to
secure both of them to the subfloor. However this is not necessary as
the t-bolts will hold the whole thing tight.

Nary a leak has been found.

Chris

I did something similar, but I put a thick bead of silicone
calk/adhesive between the two flanges. I also made sure to wipe any
caulk that oozed out between the flanges. In my case, the holes from
the new flange were not set at the same position as the new flange, so
I drilled new holes through the old flange and used long brass screws
to secure the new flange to the floor.


Gary Dyrkacz

Radio Control Aircraft/Paintball Physics/Paintball for 40+
http://home.attbi.com/~dyrgcmn/