The previous owner of my home in Southeastern Mass. did a
quickie-to-sell paint job on the cedar shingles of my home. The side
that gets sun and wind all day has turned into a checkboard of peeling
latex Benjamin Moore stain. The areas that were primed seem to be
adhering to the shingles. The peeling stain shows no primer and lots
of wood fibres. Not sure if the shingles were dirty or wet or too hot
or all of the above when painted. The clapboard side is fine and the
mostly shaded, non-windy side of the house has held up very well.

What I would like is to turn back the clock and apply Cabot Semi solid
in Cape Cod gray. But, alas it's not possible.

We are powerwashing and scraping and sanding where possible. We
expect to continue to have a peeling problem forever and have accepted
the idea of touch ups in the future. Top concern for us is peeling.
Fading away of color and product would be preferable to peeling.

Cost of the paint is neglible so with that would you......
Prep by using Wood brightener products, powerwashing and sanding then

a) Cabots Oil primer and Solid Acrylic stain
or
b) Sherwin Williams Acrylic Woodscapes directly to the shingles
or
c) Sikkens Rubbol directly on the shingles

Please no ranting about powerwashing. We can't get sandblasters in
our area which would be the optimal way of handling this problem.

THANKs in advance for any advice or ranting. I am really obsessing
over this and have been for awhile.


-Terri

You dont prime under stain, Cedar shingles should not be painted. Are
you sure its paint. Hot surfaces are the worst to paint on. that may be
your failure or freezing. Olympic is getting the highest ratings , read
Consumer reports. If you can remove all loose product stain it . Old
unpreped oxidised wood can peel. Are shingles rotting at bottom lip.
They only last so long. Its a PIA . I have cedar shingles also.

"TwinsMom"penned:
The previous owner of my home in Southeastern Mass. did a
quickie-to-sell paint job on the cedar shingles of my home. ...
....
What I would like is to turn back the clock and apply Cabot Semi solid
in Cape Cod gray. But, alas it's not possible.

We are powerwashing and scraping and sanding where possible. We
expect to continue to have a peeling problem forever and have accepted
the idea of touch ups in the future. Top concern for us is peeling.
Fading away of color and product would be preferable to peeling.
....

How 'bout just plain ole replacement? A point is reached where ya just
can't get there from here.

G

"Guido" wrote in message ...
"TwinsMom"penned:
The previous owner of my home in Southeastern Mass. did a
quickie-to-sell paint job on the cedar shingles of my home. ...
...
What I would like is to turn back the clock and apply Cabot Semi solid
in Cape Cod gray. But, alas it's not possible.

We are powerwashing and scraping and sanding where possible. We
expect to continue to have a peeling problem forever and have accepted
the idea of touch ups in the future. Top concern for us is peeling.
Fading away of color and product would be preferable to peeling.
...

How 'bout just plain ole replacement? A point is reached where ya just
can't get there from here.

G
__________________________________________

Noooo
Say it ain't so. You are right re-siding would make the most sense in
the long run. I just don't have enough money to do that right now.

-Terri

(m Ransley) wrote in message ...
You dont prime under stain, Cedar shingles should not be painted. Are
you sure its paint. Hot surfaces are the worst to paint on. that may be
your failure or freezing. Olympic is getting the highest ratings , read
Consumer reports. If you can remove all loose product stain it . Old
unpreped oxidised wood can peel. Are shingles rotting at bottom lip.
They only last so long. Its a PIA . I have cedar shingles also.

________________________

I might be able to justify spending the money on new shingles if they
were rotting. When they are powerwashed and sanded they look brand
new. I have not found any rotting ones. Thanks for the tip on
Olympic. BTW, what do you do with your shingles? Why the do people
put color on them in the first place? I just don't get it.

-Terri

They turn almost black or a deep brown that isnt even and looks bad ,
worn. Me I stain, but I have rott and some replacements are necessary.
New cedar sealed with transparent stain can look good for years, but its
alot of work . Eventualy solid color stain is the best option. Paint
peels and holds water stain doesnt, when shakes peel its a real PIA to
scrape properly.

On 23 Jun 2004 04:56:25 -0700, (TwinsMom) wrote
(with possible editing):

(m Ransley) wrote in message ...
You dont prime under stain, Cedar shingles should not be painted. Are
you sure its paint. Hot surfaces are the worst to paint on. that may be
your failure or freezing. Olympic is getting the highest ratings , read
Consumer reports. If you can remove all loose product stain it . Old
unpreped oxidised wood can peel. Are shingles rotting at bottom lip.
They only last so long. Its a PIA . I have cedar shingles also.

________________________

I might be able to justify spending the money on new shingles if they
were rotting. When they are powerwashed and sanded they look brand
new. I have not found any rotting ones. Thanks for the tip on
Olympic. BTW, what do you do with your shingles? Why the do people
put color on them in the first place? I just don't get it.

-Terri

Well, fwiw & imho, the only way to stain shingles effectively is to
dip them before applying them. Paint never seems to work.

Just a thought - if moisture appears to be the problem, perhaps adding
vent plugs at the bottom might help. Basically, these are 1" holes
drilled on the outside just above the plate and plugged with vents.
These allow air behind the insulation. It should flow upwards and out
the top of the assembly into the soffit cavity, where it rises to the
top of the roof in proper (?) vent where it exits through a ridge
vent. This sometimes will cure a less-than-perfect job of applying a
vapor barrier over the interior of the studs below the sheetrock.
--

Larry
Email to rapp at lmr dot com

From my experience with shakes/shingles, I agree. Nothing uglier than
streaky black & cedar colored shingles. Also agree that solid stain is the
best answer.
One thing I have found - there is an underlayment now for cedar
shakes/shingles that lets air circulate behind & under the shingle so they
dry out much quicker and are far less prone to the black mold and green
mildew so common in those applied directly to a plywood underlayment panel.


"m Ransley" wrote in message
...
They turn almost black or a deep brown that isnt even and looks bad ,
worn. Me I stain, but I have rott and some replacements are necessary.
New cedar sealed with transparent stain can look good for years, but its
alot of work . Eventualy solid color stain is the best option. Paint
peels and holds water stain doesnt, when shakes peel its a real PIA to
scrape properly.