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Adjusting Anderson crank window
I've got an Anderson crank-out casement window in the bathroom that won't
close all the way. It comes to about a half inch of closing but stays open far enough that the latches won't catch. If I take off the screen and grab it with my finger, it's ok. Is there a way to adjust this? We moved into the house in the winter so it hasn't been a problem but now with the nicer weather, I need to get this operational. Thanks |
Adjusting Anderson crank window
OK wrote: I've got an Anderson crank-out casement window in the bathroom that won't close all the way. It comes to about a half inch of closing but stays open far enough that the latches won't catch. If I take off the screen and grab it with my finger, it's ok. Is there a way to adjust this? We moved into the house in the winter so it hasn't been a problem but now with the nicer weather, I need to get this operational. Thanks There isn't much operator leverage working for you when the window is nearly closed. Friction between the window and it's frame can be enough to cause what you are experiencing. Try disconnecting the operating arm from the window. There's usually a wide spot in the track on the window put there so you can spring the arm stud out of the track. Then feel the window and see if it gets hard to move just before it's fully closed. If that's the problem you'll have to free up whatever is causing the windo to drag, or learn to live with the problem. Good luck, Jeff -- Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "If you can smile when things are going wrong, you've thought of someone to blame it on." |
Adjusting Anderson crank window
A fairly common problem with Andersen windows is incorrect installation.
The wood siding should not touch the exterior frame of the window. The siding overlays the attached flashing but should stop about 1.9" short of touching the casing. The problem that occurs is that when the siding is applied without this gap, as wood swells from moisture changing it will press against the casing and cause it to bind when the window is operated. You can frequently see the arc created in the casing, especially at the top and bottom by placing a long straight edge along the casing's exterior top and bottom edges. Another maintenance item is to remove the casement window' operating mechanism every few years and clean (wash with water and detergent), dry, lubricate and re-install. It makes the window work much better and isn't very difficult to do. RB Jeff Wisnia wrote: OK wrote: I've got an Anderson crank-out casement window in the bathroom that won't close all the way. It comes to about a half inch of closing but stays open far enough that the latches won't catch. If I take off the screen and grab it with my finger, it's ok. Is there a way to adjust this? We moved into the house in the winter so it hasn't been a problem but now with the nicer weather, I need to get this operational. Thanks There isn't much operator leverage working for you when the window is nearly closed. Friction between the window and it's frame can be enough to cause what you are experiencing. Try disconnecting the operating arm from the window. There's usually a wide spot in the track on the window put there so you can spring the arm stud out of the track. Then feel the window and see if it gets hard to move just before it's fully closed. If that's the problem you'll have to free up whatever is causing the windo to drag, or learn to live with the problem. Good luck, Jeff |
Adjusting Anderson crank window
"RB" wrote in message ... A fairly common problem with Andersen windows is incorrect installation. and they are NOT as good as they use to be. The wood siding should not touch the exterior frame of the window. The siding overlays the attached flashing but should stop about 1.9" short of touching the casing. 1.9"....what the hell is that? don't you mean 1/8"? The problem that occurs is that when the siding is applied without this gap, as wood swells from moisture changing it will press against the casing and cause it to bind when the window is operated. You can frequently see the arc created in the casing, especially at the top and bottom by placing a long straight edge along the casing's exterior top and bottom edges. Another maintenance item is to remove the casement window' operating mechanism every few years and clean (wash with water and detergent), dry, lubricate and re-install. It makes the window work much better and isn't very difficult to do. RB Jeff Wisnia wrote: OK wrote: I've got an Anderson crank-out casement window in the bathroom that won't close all the way. It comes to about a half inch of closing but stays open far enough that the latches won't catch. If I take off the screen and grab it with my finger, it's ok. Is there a way to adjust this? We moved into the house in the winter so it hasn't been a problem but now with the nicer weather, I need to get this operational. Thanks There isn't much operator leverage working for you when the window is nearly closed. Friction between the window and it's frame can be enough to cause what you are experiencing. Try disconnecting the operating arm from the window. There's usually a wide spot in the track on the window put there so you can spring the arm stud out of the track. Then feel the window and see if it gets hard to move just before it's fully closed. If that's the problem you'll have to free up whatever is causing the windo to drag, or learn to live with the problem. Good luck, Jeff |
Adjusting Anderson crank window
"OK" wrote in message . com... I've got an Anderson crank-out casement window in the bathroom that won't close all the way. It comes to about a half inch of closing but stays open far enough that the latches won't catch. If I take off the screen and grab it with my finger, it's ok. Is there a way to adjust this? We moved into the house in the winter so it hasn't been a problem but now with the nicer weather, I need to get this operational. Thanks replace the cranking mechanism it is probably stripped from years of use. or maybe there is something obstructing the window from closing (check for debris along the hinged side) |
Adjusting Anderson crank window
"Glenn" wrote in message ... "OK" wrote in message . com... I've got an Anderson crank-out casement window in the bathroom that won't close all the way. It comes to about a half inch of closing but stays open far enough that the latches won't catch. If I take off the screen and grab it with my finger, it's ok. Is there a way to adjust this? We moved into the house in the winter so it hasn't been a problem but now with the nicer weather, I need to get this operational. Thanks replace the cranking mechanism it is probably stripped from years of use. or maybe there is something obstructing the window from closing (check for debris along the hinged side) Been there, done that. It may be the mechanicals getty sloppy and/or gunked up, but a real likely cause is swollen/rotted wood from the paint wearing off the edges that rub and moisture getting in. My Grandmother's house had same problem from years of neglected upkeep and her habit of leaving windows open in the rain. Never did get them all working perfectly before selling the place. And it was hell tracking down replacement crank/latch parts, which she had broken from forcing stuck windows, and no, they were not as high in quality. (She was hell on faucet seats, too. I swear that old bat could break an anvil.) aem sends.... |
Adjusting Anderson crank window
Jeff Wisnia wrote in message ...
OK wrote: I've got an Anderson crank-out casement window in the bathroom that won't close all the way. It comes to about a half inch of closing but stays open far enough that the latches won't catch. If I take off the screen and grab it with my finger, it's ok. Is there a way to adjust this? We moved into the house in the winter so it hasn't been a problem but now with the nicer weather, I need to get this operational. Thanks There isn't much operator leverage working for you when the window is nearly closed. Friction between the window and it's frame can be enough to cause what you are experiencing. Try disconnecting the operating arm from the window. There's usually a wide spot in the track on the window put there so you can spring the arm stud out of the track. Then feel the window and see if it gets hard to move just before it's fully closed. If that's the problem you'll have to free up whatever is causing the windo to drag, or learn to live with the problem. Good luck, Jeff And if you can't get it to close all the way with the crank, you could run a string through the screen (very small hole in corner) to avoid having to remove the screen to close it. Harry K |
Adjusting Anderson crank window
Glenn wrote: "RB" wrote in message ... A fairly common problem with Andersen windows is incorrect installation. and they are NOT as good as they use to be. Agreed. The wood siding should not touch the exterior frame of the window. The siding overlays the attached flashing but should stop about 1.9" short of touching the casing. 1.9"....what the hell is that? don't you mean 1/8"? Yes, 1/8" The problem that occurs is that when the siding is applied without this gap, as wood swells from moisture changing it will press against the casing and cause it to bind when the window is operated. You can frequently see the arc created in the casing, especially at the top and bottom by placing a long straight edge along the casing's exterior top and bottom edges. Another maintenance item is to remove the casement window' operating mechanism every few years and clean (wash with water and detergent), dry, lubricate and re-install. It makes the window work much better and isn't very difficult to do. RB Jeff Wisnia wrote: OK wrote: I've got an Anderson crank-out casement window in the bathroom that won't close all the way. It comes to about a half inch of closing but stays open far enough that the latches won't catch. If I take off the screen and grab it with my finger, it's ok. Is there a way to adjust this? We moved into the house in the winter so it hasn't been a problem but now with the nicer weather, I need to get this operational. Thanks There isn't much operator leverage working for you when the window is nearly closed. Friction between the window and it's frame can be enough to cause what you are experiencing. Try disconnecting the operating arm from the window. There's usually a wide spot in the track on the window put there so you can spring the arm stud out of the track. Then feel the window and see if it gets hard to move just before it's fully closed. If that's the problem you'll have to free up whatever is causing the windo to drag, or learn to live with the problem. Good luck, Jeff |
Adjusting Anderson crank window
By the way, Andersen says that if the window is in a brick wall the gap at
the sill is supposed to be 1/2 inch of caulk. Pretty ugly. But now I know why...... if you have their vinyl clad windows and a sill is damaged, they sell replacement sill covers and you need that gap of removable caulk to install them otherwise you are going to have to call a mason. "RB" wrote in message ... Glenn wrote: "RB" wrote in message ... A fairly common problem with Andersen windows is incorrect installation. and they are NOT as good as they use to be. Agreed. The wood siding should not touch the exterior frame of the window. The siding overlays the attached flashing but should stop about 1.9" short of touching the casing. 1.9"....what the hell is that? don't you mean 1/8"? Yes, 1/8" The problem that occurs is that when the siding is applied without this gap, as wood swells from moisture changing it will press against the casing and cause it to bind when the window is operated. You can frequently see the arc created in the casing, especially at the top and bottom by placing a long straight edge along the casing's exterior top and bottom edges. Another maintenance item is to remove the casement window' operating mechanism every few years and clean (wash with water and detergent), dry, lubricate and re-install. It makes the window work much better and isn't very difficult to do. RB Jeff Wisnia wrote: OK wrote: I've got an Anderson crank-out casement window in the bathroom that won't close all the way. It comes to about a half inch of closing but stays open far enough that the latches won't catch. If I take off the screen and grab it with my finger, it's ok. Is there a way to adjust this? We moved into the house in the winter so it hasn't been a problem but now with the nicer weather, I need to get this operational. Thanks There isn't much operator leverage working for you when the window is nearly closed. Friction between the window and it's frame can be enough to cause what you are experiencing. Try disconnecting the operating arm from the window. There's usually a wide spot in the track on the window put there so you can spring the arm stud out of the track. Then feel the window and see if it gets hard to move just before it's fully closed. If that's the problem you'll have to free up whatever is causing the windo to drag, or learn to live with the problem. Good luck, Jeff |
Adjusting Anderson crank window
Take off handle
Take off cover Tighten screws... Reattach cover then handle. You will need a phillips head screw driver. |
Adjusting Anderson crank window
On Wednesday, October 21, 2015 at 3:54:47 PM UTC-6, wrote:
Take off handle Take off cover Tighten screws... Reattach cover then handle. You will need a phillips head screw driver. Thanks, That worked. I hope Glen's grandmother cut him out of her will. |
Adjusting Anderson crank window
On Saturday, March 27, 2004 at 7:01:30 PM UTC-6, OK wrote:
I've got an Anderson crank-out casement window in the bathroom that won't close all the way. It comes to about a half inch of closing but stays open far enough that the latches won't catch. If I take off the screen and grab it with my finger, it's ok. Is there a way to adjust this? We moved into the house in the winter so it hasn't been a problem but now with the nicer weather, I need to get this operational. Thanks I had the identical problem and I just moved the entire crank mechanism over slightly and now it works and locks perfectly!!!!! |
Adjusting Anderson crank window
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