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kenmore 90 series washer - lid switch removal secrets (for changing it)?



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 13th 04, 02:19 AM
bill yohler
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Default kenmore 90 series washer - lid switch removal secrets (for changing it)?

ok, guys, our just under three yr old kenmore 'series 90' washer
stopped running, abouut 10 days back. I figured 'uh-huh, clock in
timer dead-replace timer', bought new timer (order it/$100@sears),
installed it, now the washer will fill and agitate, but NOT spin or
drain, even if manually advanced click by click and tried, even if
manually adavanced even to another entire 'style' of wash cyle.

....dread setting in now...

read an old thread here, got '2 votes for bad lid switch' in that
thread, checked it, found lid switch actually electrically 'good', but
plastic bracket that holds it in place is broken (making it
unfunctional, because 'lid spike' couldn't push switch far enough down
to actuate it/switch was too loose).

washer is a kenmore series 90, model 110.20922991, serial # CL
0715366, type 111. that lid switch is somewhat 'graspable' but not
removeable from above the tub. are there two leads to it? is there a
'plug-in' connector on the switch itself, or are the pigtails of the
switch hard-wired TO the switch? are the other ends of the lid switch
the two leads 'by themselves' at the middle rear left of the timer?
the _other_ two (much bigger) timer connectors are what I call
"massive complexie" models, each of them having approx 12 to 14 leads
per connector, in 2 rows per, as I recall...

I need to 'extract' that lid switch to either repair the plastic 'base
bracket' to it, or replace it entirely...so, do I have to pull the
back off the control panel again? anything else? are the switch wires
'clipped in place' mid-way in their run from the switch TO the main
controller? do the switch leads (as they run toward the back of the
machine/dashboard area) gotta be 'fished thru' a tight spot in there,
or thru a rubber grommet, or something?

thanks for tips and clues :-)

BTW, right now I'm "running a low-price special" on your choice:
either a BRAND new main control timer, complete with box and
paperwork/receipt, or a "known good" just under three yr old
timer...for the same machine (& possibly others)
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  #2  
Old March 13th 04, 02:28 AM
jim
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Posts: n/a
Default kenmore 90 series washer - lid switch removal secrets (for changing it)?

bill yohler wrote:

ok, guys, our just under three yr old kenmore 'series 90' washer
stopped running, abouut 10 days back. I figured 'uh-huh, clock in
timer dead-replace timer', bought new timer (order it/$100@sears),
installed it, now the washer will fill and agitate, but NOT spin or
drain, even if manually advanced click by click and tried, even if
manually adavanced even to another entire 'style' of wash cyle.

...dread setting in now...

read an old thread here, got '2 votes for bad lid switch' in that
thread, checked it, found lid switch actually electrically 'good', but
plastic bracket that holds it in place is broken (making it
unfunctional, because 'lid spike' couldn't push switch far enough down
to actuate it/switch was too loose).

washer is a kenmore series 90, model 110.20922991, serial # CL
0715366, type 111. that lid switch is somewhat 'graspable' but not
removeable from above the tub. are there two leads to it? is there a
'plug-in' connector on the switch itself, or are the pigtails of the
switch hard-wired TO the switch? are the other ends of the lid switch
the two leads 'by themselves' at the middle rear left of the timer?
the _other_ two (much bigger) timer connectors are what I call
"massive complexie" models, each of them having approx 12 to 14 leads
per connector, in 2 rows per, as I recall...

I need to 'extract' that lid switch to either repair the plastic 'base
bracket' to it, or replace it entirely...so, do I have to pull the
back off the control panel again? anything else? are the switch wires
'clipped in place' mid-way in their run from the switch TO the main
controller? do the switch leads (as they run toward the back of the
machine/dashboard area) gotta be 'fished thru' a tight spot in there,
or thru a rubber grommet, or something?

thanks for tips and clues :-)

BTW, right now I'm "running a low-price special" on your choice:
either a BRAND new main control timer, complete with box and
paperwork/receipt, or a "known good" just under three yr old
timer...for the same machine (& possibly others)

on my sears washer i just take the two screws out the console(back top
part) and rock it back and then you see two metal clips on the top lid
back area and i use needle nose pliers to grab the gold colored cips and
remove them and then the whole top and front comes off and move it to
the side and then you can get at the lid switch... but first you unplug
it after you remove the console, there is a plug in there that comes out
so you can take off the whole cabinet in one piece....on mine the switch
seemed to not work.. so i messed with it by pressing on it with a screw
driver and it would engage... like the prick that goes down from the lid
was not long enough... well i tried it and was even gonna make a longer
prick to get in there... i then got a new lid switch and found out that
my old one was in pretty bad shape and did not even realize it..... with
the one one the prick(barb) did its job great...... the new lid switch
comes with some pretty long leads(wires ) on it.. and thy just plug in..
no pig tailing needed......
  #3  
Old March 13th 04, 04:19 PM
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default kenmore 90 series washer - lid switch removal secrets (for changing it)?

Or just jam a chunk of wood in the hole so the switch is always on.
Just dont lift the lid when it's spinning, or at least not stick your
arm in there. That's all it's for is to prevent idiots from sticking
their arms, legs, heads, or other bodily organs in there during the
spin cycle.

-------------


On 13 Mar 2004 05:23:44 -0800, (jeff) wrote:

(bill yohler) wrote in message om...
ok, guys, our just under three yr old kenmore 'series 90' washer
stopped running, abouut 10 days back. I figured 'uh-huh, clock in
timer dead-replace timer', bought new timer (order it/$100@sears),
installed it, now the washer will fill and agitate, but NOT spin or
drain, even if manually advanced click by click and tried, even if
manually adavanced even to another entire 'style' of wash cyle.

...dread setting in now...

read an old thread here, got '2 votes for bad lid switch' in that
thread, checked it, found lid switch actually electrically 'good', but
plastic bracket that holds it in place is broken (making it
unfunctional, because 'lid spike' couldn't push switch far enough down
to actuate it/switch was too loose).

washer is a kenmore series 90, model 110.20922991, serial # CL
0715366, type 111. that lid switch is somewhat 'graspable' but not
removeable from above the tub. are there two leads to it? is there a
'plug-in' connector on the switch itself, or are the pigtails of the
switch hard-wired TO the switch? are the other ends of the lid switch
the two leads 'by themselves' at the middle rear left of the timer?
the _other_ two (much bigger) timer connectors are what I call
"massive complexie" models, each of them having approx 12 to 14 leads
per connector, in 2 rows per, as I recall...

I need to 'extract' that lid switch to either repair the plastic 'base
bracket' to it, or replace it entirely...so, do I have to pull the
back off the control panel again? anything else? are the switch wires
'clipped in place' mid-way in their run from the switch TO the main
controller? do the switch leads (as they run toward the back of the
machine/dashboard area) gotta be 'fished thru' a tight spot in there,
or thru a rubber grommet, or something?

thanks for tips and clues :-)

BTW, right now I'm "running a low-price special" on your choice:
either a BRAND new main control timer, complete with box and
paperwork/receipt, or a "known good" just under three yr old
timer...for the same machine (& possibly others)


Hi,

Removing the cabinet to access the switch helps....

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html
How to take apart - Cabinet off, cabinet on, checking or replacing a
lid switch, replace the pump, replace motor coupling or motor.

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=547225
Lid switch assembly for your model#.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/


 




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