I am building a new house and I have to work with the developers
subcontracotors. The electrician is going to be charging me an arm
and a leg for electrical work. Of course they are giving me a basic
min required. For the bedrooms, living, family rooms, they are going
to have one switch with one outlet that is switchable. In the
kitchen, garage and dining rooms, one light in the ceiling and a
switch.

I have 2 stories, Living area downstairs and bedrooms upstairs with a
basement as well. I have a bunch of quetions and I appreciate if you
can help answer them.

1. I intend to install a fan in each bedroom and family room. At
minimum I like a light with a switch. Can I later on install a light
in the ceiling easily from the power comming to the outlets? What
Would I need to get done? He is asking me $95 for a fan box and $50
for a switch in each room.

2. Eventually, I want the fan and the light to be operated with the
same switch ( I think, can this be done?

3. In the kitchen I like to install recessed lights, but the chage is
$110 each with $50 for a switch. Can I easily install recessed light
later on in the kitchen? The other option is to install track
lighting later on and is that something that I can do easily later on?

4. In the bathroooms, I will ahve one switch and light. i like to
install a vanity light as well and of couse he is charging me $85 for
it. I think this is a real ripoff, since he just has to install few
feet of cable and attach a light bulb to it. I think eventually, I am
going to want to install an exaust fan which currently will cost me
$295 +50 for the fan and additional $200 for the venting.

5. In the garage they are going to install a light with one switch.
I like him to install a switch at the other end of the garage as well
($50) and a light on the outside of the garage.

I am assuming since, there will be outlets all over the house, I can
use the power or the cabling comming through them to do some of this.

I am also going to install 2 PVC conduits so that I can take wires
from basement to attic easily.

BTW, all he gives me is a light bulb at those ceiling lights.

Please help me figur out what I can do later on fairly easily and cut
the costs out. Also, If you can point me to where I can readup on how
to do someof this myself would be great.

Sorry for the long post.

Here is an earlier posting from someone who already did what you propose:


Just wondering here from other home owners...

I bought a brand new house (now about a year and a half old), and even
though I regret it completely now, I skimped on some stuff as I was building
to save money thinking I could do it cheaper later. For example, the builder
was charging $600 / 4 recessed lights when I saw ads in the paper daily for
people doing it for half that or less.

Little did I realize at the time, that I would pay more then that in drywall
repair. Either that, or I didn't think I would find such lazy retrofit
electricians who refused to cleanly snake wires rather then cut holes.

Anyways, if I haven't bored you yet , I had recessed lights put in 3
bedrooms, downstairs in the living/family room, bathroom fans installed and
rear surround in-ceiling speakers and a cable outlet moved.

This resulted in a hole in my bedroom wall, a hole in one of the walls of
the office and a hole in one of the bathrooms and TEN holes in my living
room wall and ceiling.

The electricians recommended "great" drywall guys and said I wouldn't even
notice the patch work.

Of course the patch work is quite obvious, the textures don't match, some of
the patches are horrible, etc. and the patches were spot painted, so the
paint job stands out.

So now that I am done with all the electrical stuff, I wanted to bring in a
pro to skim coat the damaged walls and ceilings and prime and paint
everything to match.

I had wanted to do this to 4 or 5 walls and a one or two ceilings. I
expected a ball park figure of about $1500 to $2000 and a 2 or 3 day job.
And was quite happy to pay that to fix all the damage since it was driving
me nuts.

ANYWAYS... I brought someone in this morning to give me an estimate, and
when he saw the damage I wanted to repair he basically said I was wasting
his time, picking the job apart and that I wouldn't be happy with any job
they did, and he refused to even give an estimate and walked out.

Is what I want to do "done"? Am I being too picky or would other home owners
in the same boat do the same? I talked to a few friends at work, some said
it would drive them crazy too, others said I was being picky. But no one new
if this was a normal thing to do???

My feeling is the guy was unprofessional to put down what I wanted to do
even if he didn't agree. If I want to pay him $2000 to waste his time for 3
days, he should shut up and let it be wasted.

I have another guy coming in for an estimate on Wed. and I will take a
different approach with him... I will not point out anything. I will just
say I want this,, this, etc retextured... how much?

I have tried two drywall guys and both were horrible. I figured just pay the
two thousand, have a perfect texture and move on with my life.

I am not expecting the entire house to match perfectly and be flawless,
since the whole point of orange peel texture is to hide the flaws of lazy /
sloppy construction, but I don't think I am "out of my mind" as this
contractor put it, to expect wall surfaces to have a matched texture across
the entire surface...


"tweety" wrote in message
m...
I am building a new house and I have to work with the developers
subcontracotors. The electrician is going to be charging me an arm
and a leg for electrical work. Of course they are giving me a basic
min required. For the bedrooms, living, family rooms, they are going
to have one switch with one outlet that is switchable. In the
kitchen, garage and dining rooms, one light in the ceiling and a
switch.

I have 2 stories, Living area downstairs and bedrooms upstairs with a
basement as well. I have a bunch of quetions and I appreciate if you
can help answer them.

1. I intend to install a fan in each bedroom and family room. At
minimum I like a light with a switch. Can I later on install a light
in the ceiling easily from the power comming to the outlets? What
Would I need to get done? He is asking me $95 for a fan box and $50
for a switch in each room.

2. Eventually, I want the fan and the light to be operated with the
same switch ( I think, can this be done?

3. In the kitchen I like to install recessed lights, but the chage is
$110 each with $50 for a switch. Can I easily install recessed light
later on in the kitchen? The other option is to install track
lighting later on and is that something that I can do easily later on?

4. In the bathroooms, I will ahve one switch and light. i like to
install a vanity light as well and of couse he is charging me $85 for
it. I think this is a real ripoff, since he just has to install few
feet of cable and attach a light bulb to it. I think eventually, I am
going to want to install an exaust fan which currently will cost me
$295 +50 for the fan and additional $200 for the venting.

5. In the garage they are going to install a light with one switch.
I like him to install a switch at the other end of the garage as well
($50) and a light on the outside of the garage.

I am assuming since, there will be outlets all over the house, I can
use the power or the cabling comming through them to do some of this.

I am also going to install 2 PVC conduits so that I can take wires
from basement to attic easily.

BTW, all he gives me is a light bulb at those ceiling lights.

Please help me figur out what I can do later on fairly easily and cut
the costs out. Also, If you can point me to where I can readup on how
to do someof this myself would be great.

Sorry for the long post.

Don't plan on doing any of that later. It will cost you twice or more
than it will cost you now. Work your best deal with the one doing the work
now and get it done right and get it done now.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math



tweety wrote:
I am building a new house and I have to work with the developers
subcontracotors. The electrician is going to be charging me an arm
and a leg for electrical work. Of course they are giving me a basic
min required. For the bedrooms, living, family rooms, they are going
to have one switch with one outlet that is switchable. In the
kitchen, garage and dining rooms, one light in the ceiling and a
switch.

I have 2 stories, Living area downstairs and bedrooms upstairs with a
basement as well. I have a bunch of quetions and I appreciate if you
can help answer them.

1. I intend to install a fan in each bedroom and family room. At
minimum I like a light with a switch. Can I later on install a light
in the ceiling easily from the power comming to the outlets? What
Would I need to get done? He is asking me $95 for a fan box and $50
for a switch in each room.

2. Eventually, I want the fan and the light to be operated with the
same switch ( I think, can this be done?

3. In the kitchen I like to install recessed lights, but the chage is
$110 each with $50 for a switch. Can I easily install recessed light
later on in the kitchen? The other option is to install track
lighting later on and is that something that I can do easily later on?

4. In the bathroooms, I will ahve one switch and light. i like to
install a vanity light as well and of couse he is charging me $85 for
it. I think this is a real ripoff, since he just has to install few
feet of cable and attach a light bulb to it. I think eventually, I am
going to want to install an exaust fan which currently will cost me
$295 +50 for the fan and additional $200 for the venting.

5. In the garage they are going to install a light with one switch.
I like him to install a switch at the other end of the garage as well
($50) and a light on the outside of the garage.

I am assuming since, there will be outlets all over the house, I can
use the power or the cabling comming through them to do some of this.

I am also going to install 2 PVC conduits so that I can take wires
from basement to attic easily.

BTW, all he gives me is a light bulb at those ceiling lights.

Please help me figur out what I can do later on fairly easily and cut
the costs out. Also, If you can point me to where I can readup on how
to do someof this myself would be great.

Sorry for the long post.

"tweety" wrote in message
m...
I am building a new house and I have to work with the developers
subcontracotors. The electrician is going to be charging me an arm
and a leg for electrical work. Of course they are giving me a basic
min required. For the bedrooms, living, family rooms, they are going
to have one switch with one outlet that is switchable. In the
kitchen, garage and dining rooms, one light in the ceiling and a
switch.

I have 2 stories, Living area downstairs and bedrooms upstairs with a
basement as well. I have a bunch of quetions and I appreciate if you
can help answer them.

1. I intend to install a fan in each bedroom and family room. At
minimum I like a light with a switch. Can I later on install a light
in the ceiling easily from the power comming to the outlets? What
Would I need to get done? He is asking me $95 for a fan box and $50
for a switch in each room.

2. Eventually, I want the fan and the light to be operated with the
same switch ( I think, can this be done?

3. In the kitchen I like to install recessed lights, but the chage is
$110 each with $50 for a switch. Can I easily install recessed light
later on in the kitchen? The other option is to install track
lighting later on and is that something that I can do easily later on?

4. In the bathroooms, I will ahve one switch and light. i like to
install a vanity light as well and of couse he is charging me $85 for
it. I think this is a real ripoff, since he just has to install few
feet of cable and attach a light bulb to it. I think eventually, I am
going to want to install an exaust fan which currently will cost me
$295 +50 for the fan and additional $200 for the venting.

5. In the garage they are going to install a light with one switch.
I like him to install a switch at the other end of the garage as well
($50) and a light on the outside of the garage.

I am assuming since, there will be outlets all over the house, I can
use the power or the cabling comming through them to do some of this.

I am also going to install 2 PVC conduits so that I can take wires
from basement to attic easily.

BTW, all he gives me is a light bulb at those ceiling lights.

Please help me figur out what I can do later on fairly easily and cut
the costs out. Also, If you can point me to where I can readup on how
to do someof this myself would be great.

Sorry for the long post.

Check your contract with the builder. You MAY have the ability to do some
work yourself though in my experience is it limited to low voltage only.
They will get pretty ****y about this.

Your going to want 3 wire ( 2 hots, neutral and a ground) to the ceiling
boxes, and a double switch at the very least. If you add a switched outlet
then you going to need 3 gang box.

The kitchen already has a switch, unless your adding an 3 way.

No fart fans? If you do not have windows they are required. Seems pricey to
me.


God help you if it is KB Homes, but that is another long post.

From:


I am building a new house and I have to work with the developers
subcontracotors. The electrician is going to be charging me an arm
and a leg for electrical work. Of course they are giving me a basic
min required. For the bedrooms, living, family rooms, they are going
to have one switch with one outlet that is switchable. In the
kitchen, garage and dining rooms, one light in the ceiling and a
switch.

I have 2 stories, Living area downstairs and bedrooms upstairs with a
basement as well. I have a bunch of quetions and I appreciate if you
can help answer them.

1. I intend to install a fan in each bedroom and family room. At
minimum I like a light with a switch. Can I later on install a light
in the ceiling easily from the power comming to the outlets? What
Would I need to get done? He is asking me $95 for a fan box and $50
for a switch in each room.

That's chump change. Pay them to do it now. Tell them you want 2 switchlegs in
each fan box and a 2-gang switchbox by the door.


2. Eventually, I want the fan and the light to be operated with the
same switch ( I think, can this be done?

Ideally, you want the fan on a speed control, and the light seperately switched
or on a seperate dimmer, unless you want to lock yourself in always having both
either on or off.

3. In the kitchen I like to install recessed lights, but the chage is
$110 each with $50 for a switch. Can I easily install recessed light
later on in the kitchen? The other option is to install track
lighting later on and is that something that I can do easily later on?

4. In the bathroooms, I will ahve one switch and light. i like to
install a vanity light as well and of couse he is charging me $85 for
it. I think this is a real ripoff, since he just has to install few
feet of cable and attach a light bulb to it.



You're obviously clueless as to the world of business other than your own, I'll
leave you with that thought, transmit what I've wasted my time on already, and
be gone.

I think eventually, I am
going to want to install an exaust fan which currently will cost me
$295 +50 for the fan and additional $200 for the venting.

5. In the garage they are going to install a light with one switch.
I like him to install a switch at the other end of the garage as well
($50) and a light on the outside of the garage.

I am assuming since, there will be outlets all over the house, I can
use the power or the cabling comming through them to do some of this.

I am also going to install 2 PVC conduits so that I can take wires
from basement to attic easily.

BTW, all he gives me is a light bulb at those ceiling lights.

Please help me figur out what I can do later on fairly easily and cut
the costs out. Also, If you can point me to where I can readup on how
to do someof this myself would be great.

Sorry for the long post.

In article ,
(tweety) wrote:

(snip)

1. I intend to install a fan in each bedroom and family room. At
minimum I like a light with a switch. Can I later on install a light
in the ceiling easily from the power comming to the outlets? What
Would I need to get done? He is asking me $95 for a fan box and $50
for a switch in each room.

Are you saying that you only have the choice of putting a room light in
the ceiling or a fan, and you're going with the fan? If that's correct,
how do you plan on seeing anything at night -- by candlelight and oil
lamp?

Why go thru all that ceiling light-fan separation rigamarole when they
make some pretty spiffy ceiling fans with room lights built in to them?
Fan and room light all in one package; convenience doesn't get any
better than that. But otherwise, yes, a ceiling light can be installed
later; it just gets wired into a new two-switch wall switch that'll
replace the original single switch.


2. Eventually, I want the fan and the light to be operated with the
same switch ( I think, can this be done?

Matter of fact, you can even put a lighted fan on a slide dimmer wall
switch. It's got the normal off-on flip switch with a tiny little slider
(which operates the dimmer and, consequently, make the fan itself run
slower or faster as you dim down or turn up). We've got one of these in
our bedroom on a single wall switch and it's pretty peachy keen.


3. In the kitchen I like to install recessed lights, but the chage is
$110 each with $50 for a switch. Can I easily install recessed light
later on in the kitchen? The other option is to install track
lighting later on and is that something that I can do easily later on?

"Easily" is a relative term. It's easiEST to just have them installed by
the builder when the house gets built and the ceilings are wide open.
Otherwise, "easy" depends on how equipped you are to cut holes in your
ceiling for the cans, nail the cans up to the joist spaces, run conduit,
and wire the whole thing into your circuit panel. And do it without
burning your house down or electrocuting yourself or something.

Personally, I don't screw with anything in my house that has pretty good
potential to kill me, and electrical work is one of 'em.


4. In the bathroooms, I will ahve one switch and light. i like to
install a vanity light as well and of couse he is charging me $85 for
it. I think this is a real ripoff, since he just has to install few
feet of cable and attach a light bulb to it. I think eventually, I am
going to want to install an exaust fan which currently will cost me
$295 +50 for the fan and additional $200 for the venting.

Unless your bathroom is going to be huge, it might be bathroom lighting
overkill, IMO. Vanity lights throw off a ton of light on their own
without needing any help from a ceiling light. Otherwise, unless you
know how to wire it all up yourself and properly to code, $85 might not
be the ripoff you suspect.

Also, you mean to say you intend to build a new house without an exhaust
fan venting to the outside of the house in the plan? Moisture is a
home's worst enemy, and showers and baths put up a rainforest's worth of
it every single time.

Unless of course you just happen to be a big fan of mold, mildew, and
peeling paint. Then nevermind.


5. In the garage they are going to install a light with one switch.
I like him to install a switch at the other end of the garage as well
($50) and a light on the outside of the garage.

I am assuming since, there will be outlets all over the house, I can
use the power or the cabling comming through them to do some of this.

I'm no electrician, but seems to me that a better practice would be to
feed off the circuit/run of the first switch instead of sucking juice
off an interior outlet. Tying into an outlet that serves and entirely
different part of the house just doesn't seem to be the best way to do
it.


(snip)

BTW, all he gives me is a light bulb at those ceiling lights.

They only do that for their cheapskate buyers. Just kidding. That's
pretty much what all builders everywhere give ya. People who spring for
the million-dollar homes probably get better than that, but even there
it wouldn't surprise me if they didn't.


Please help me figur out what I can do later on fairly easily and cut
the costs out. Also, If you can point me to where I can readup on how
to do someof this myself would be great.

Dude, there's a reason they invented the phrase, "Pay me now or pay me
more later." You'll almost certainly pay far more to add on later -- or
have a pro fix what you screw up because you dont know what you're doing
-- than you will to just bite the bullet, have it done when the place is
going up, and get on with your life.

AJS

On 02/24/04 04:08 pm AJScott put fingers to keyboard and launched the
following message into cyberspace:

1. I intend to install a fan in each bedroom and family room. At
minimum I like a light with a switch. Can I later on install a light
in the ceiling easily from the power comming to the outlets? What
Would I need to get done? He is asking me $95 for a fan box and $50
for a switch in each room.


Are you saying that you only have the choice of putting a room light in
the ceiling or a fan, and you're going with the fan? If that's correct,
how do you plan on seeing anything at night -- by candlelight and oil
lamp?

Our bedrooms have neither lights nor fans on the ceilings. But there are
plenty of duplex wall outlets, one outlet of each pair being controlled
by the wall switch and the other always live. IOW, ceilings aren't the
only place to have lights.

I do agree, howver, that if the OP wants both lights and fans, it will
be cheaper and more convenient (and probably prettier) to do it now than
to do it later.

MB

In article ,
(HA HA Budys Here) wrote:

You're obviously clueless as to the world of business other than your own,
I'll
leave you with that thought, transmit what I've wasted my time on already,
and
be gone.

Actually, I'm waiting for the developer to tell the fellow to go build
his own damn house somewhere else and find someone else's subs to nickel
and dime to death

AJS

I am also building new house.

Electrical work is a racket. Installing $7 HALO light cost $100
My builder claims that outlet on the dust ledge in MB must be GFI so $150
charge.
Microwave has to have dedicated curcuit, but when builder install own MW it
doesn't.

First get the Code book and read requirements. My builder also claimed if I
don't pay for
dedicated circuit for a basement, they will connect basement to kitchen, or
living room,
or even waterheater. Yeah.... I would like to see them passing electrical
inspection
with basement outlets wired to waterheater. Talk to city/county inspectors,
they are the
good guys. See a problem let them know...

Beat builders at they own game...
1) Wire the second floor that can be accessed via attic is easy.

1a) I would not mess with cathedral, my new house will have some places 40+
feet tall.
If electrician wants money that bad, $100 for light that high up is well
worth it.

2) First floor, instead of wasting $100/light x 6 lights pay prewire and
tell them were to poke a hole in the drywall,
my builder charges $50 and that includes a switch (dinky one).

3) If you need to install more than 6 recessed lights pay for another
prewire.

4) L shaped recessed lights can be installed later. Canisters are pretty
large,
so when you cut hole for one you can get drill to make hole in the joist for
wires going to next light.

5) Sneak in additional wires after electrical inspection.

6) Make holes for existing wires large to allow for additional wires. Add
small string to allow pull
new wires to outlets. Pre-drill holes in the joists, I would not use small
bit, so closing them be time
wasting exercise for builder.

7) Get clip-on electrical boxes.

I would have had to spent about $5000 to get wiring, and a 3 pairs of stupid
cheap ass no name wall
speakers, and three $7 volume controls. ( Premium theater package ). Plus 2k
alarm and automation wires.

No thanks.

Mike J wrote:
I am also building new house.

Electrical work is a racket. Installing $7 HALO light cost $100
My builder claims that outlet on the dust ledge in MB must be GFI so
$150 charge.
Microwave has to have dedicated curcuit, but when builder install own
MW it doesn't.

First get the Code book and read requirements. My builder also
claimed if I don't pay for
dedicated circuit for a basement, they will connect basement to
kitchen, or living room,
or even waterheater. Yeah.... I would like to see them passing
electrical inspection
with basement outlets wired to waterheater. Talk to city/county
inspectors, they are the
good guys. See a problem let them know...

Beat builders at they own game...
1) Wire the second floor that can be accessed via attic is easy.

1a) I would not mess with cathedral, my new house will have some
places 40+ feet tall.
If electrician wants money that bad, $100 for light that high up is
well worth it.

2) First floor, instead of wasting $100/light x 6 lights pay prewire
and tell them were to poke a hole in the drywall,
my builder charges $50 and that includes a switch (dinky one).

3) If you need to install more than 6 recessed lights pay for another
prewire.

4) L shaped recessed lights can be installed later. Canisters are
pretty large,
so when you cut hole for one you can get drill to make hole in the
joist for wires going to next light.

5) Sneak in additional wires after electrical inspection.

6) Make holes for existing wires large to allow for additional wires.
Add small string to allow pull
new wires to outlets. Pre-drill holes in the joists, I would not use
small bit, so closing them be time
wasting exercise for builder.

7) Get clip-on electrical boxes.

I would have had to spent about $5000 to get wiring, and a 3 pairs of
stupid cheap ass no name wall
speakers, and three $7 volume controls. ( Premium theater package ).
Plus 2k alarm and automation wires.

No thanks.

Rather than hacking the job and avoiding/violating the code and
inspections, why not just get a good contractor or tell him flat out that if
he wants the job, he will need to do the job right at the right price. If
your contractor will not do the electrical right at a fair price, what makes
you think the plumbing, heating, roofing etc are any better?

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

tweety wrote:

I am building a new house and I have to work with the developers
subcontracotors. The electrician is going to be charging me an arm
and a leg for electrical work. Of course they are giving me a basic
min required. For the bedrooms, living, family rooms, they are going
to have one switch with one outlet that is switchable. In the
kitchen, garage and dining rooms, one light in the ceiling and a
switch.

I have 2 stories, Living area downstairs and bedrooms upstairs with a
basement as well. I have a bunch of quetions and I appreciate if you
can help answer them.

1. I intend to install a fan in each bedroom and family room. At
minimum I like a light with a switch. Can I later on install a light
in the ceiling easily from the power comming to the outlets? What
Would I need to get done? He is asking me $95 for a fan box and $50
for a switch in each room.

2. Eventually, I want the fan and the light to be operated with the
same switch ( I think, can this be done?

3. In the kitchen I like to install recessed lights, but the chage is
$110 each with $50 for a switch. Can I easily install recessed light
later on in the kitchen? The other option is to install track
lighting later on and is that something that I can do easily later on?

4. In the bathroooms, I will ahve one switch and light. i like to
install a vanity light as well and of couse he is charging me $85 for
it. I think this is a real ripoff, since he just has to install few
feet of cable and attach a light bulb to it. I think eventually, I am
going to want to install an exaust fan which currently will cost me
$295 +50 for the fan and additional $200 for the venting.

5. In the garage they are going to install a light with one switch.
I like him to install a switch at the other end of the garage as well
($50) and a light on the outside of the garage.

I am assuming since, there will be outlets all over the house, I can
use the power or the cabling comming through them to do some of this.

I am also going to install 2 PVC conduits so that I can take wires
from basement to attic easily.

BTW, all he gives me is a light bulb at those ceiling lights.

Please help me figur out what I can do later on fairly easily and cut
the costs out. Also, If you can point me to where I can readup on how
to do someof this myself would be great.

Sorry for the long post.
dont bother with all these rip off artist, just tell them you dont want
electricity and you gonna use candles.. save even more money... save the
wax from the candles when the melt and buy new string and make your own
candles.. that will fix them....

From: "Mike J" thespam


I am also building new house.

Electrical work is a racket. Installing $7 HALO light cost $100

Even a Halo trim is more than 7.00.


My builder claims that outlet on the dust ledge in MB must be GFI so $150
charge.

All receptacles in a Master Bath must be GFCI, Including a dust ledge.

Microwave has to have dedicated curcuit, but when builder install own MW it
doesn't.

So let the builder install it.

First get the Code book and read requirements. My builder also claimed if I
don't pay for
dedicated circuit for a basement, they will connect basement to kitchen, or
living room,
or even waterheater. Yeah.... I would like to see them passing electrical
inspection
with basement outlets wired to waterheater. Talk to city/county inspectors,
they are the
good guys. See a problem let them know...

That is if you're capable of detecting a problem. Obviously you are not. A
basement requires a 15a convenience outlet GFCI protected. That is all. There
is no provision in the code requiring it be "dedicated." You'll likely get that
outlet connected to a front and rear outdoor outlet and a garage outlet all on
the same circuit, protected by 1 GFCI or a GFCI circuit breaker.

The laundry area would require it's own circuit(s) for those appliances only.

Beat builders at they own game...
1) Wire the second floor that can be accessed via attic is easy.

1a) I would not mess with cathedral, my new house will have some places 40+
feet tall.
If electrician wants money that bad, $100 for light that high up is well
worth it.

An additional light or lights is work. 100.00 is getting off easy no matter
what the height.

2) First floor, instead of wasting $100/light x 6 lights pay prewire and
tell them were to poke a hole in the drywall,
my builder charges $50 and that includes a switch (dinky one).

I've never known a builder or sub to even offer "pre-wire."


3) If you need to install more than 6 recessed lights pay for another
prewire.

4) L shaped recessed lights can be installed later. Canisters are pretty
large,
so when you cut hole for one you can get drill to make hole in the joist for
wires going to next light.

If the next light is in the next joist bay.


5) Sneak in additional wires after electrical inspection.

Usually, before the sheetrock goes up the electrican does a once-over.
Especially in a development.

6) Make holes for existing wires large to allow for additional wires. Add
small string to allow pull
new wires to outlets. Pre-drill holes in the joists, I would not use small
bit, so closing them be time
wasting exercise for builder.

7) Get clip-on electrical boxes.

I would have had to spent about $5000 to get wiring, and a 3 pairs of stupid
cheap ass no name wall
speakers, and three $7 volume controls. ( Premium theater package ). Plus 2k
alarm and automation wires.

No thanks.

From: "Joseph Meehan"


Mike J wrote:
I am also building new house.

Electrical work is a racket. Installing $7 HALO light cost $100
My builder claims that outlet on the dust ledge in MB must be GFI so
$150 charge.
Microwave has to have dedicated curcuit, but when builder install own
MW it doesn't.

First get the Code book and read requirements. My builder also
claimed if I don't pay for
dedicated circuit for a basement, they will connect basement to
kitchen, or living room,
or even waterheater. Yeah.... I would like to see them passing
electrical inspection
with basement outlets wired to waterheater. Talk to city/county
inspectors, they are the
good guys. See a problem let them know...

Beat builders at they own game...
1) Wire the second floor that can be accessed via attic is easy.

1a) I would not mess with cathedral, my new house will have some
places 40+ feet tall.
If electrician wants money that bad, $100 for light that high up is
well worth it.

2) First floor, instead of wasting $100/light x 6 lights pay prewire
and tell them were to poke a hole in the drywall,
my builder charges $50 and that includes a switch (dinky one).

3) If you need to install more than 6 recessed lights pay for another
prewire.

4) L shaped recessed lights can be installed later. Canisters are
pretty large,
so when you cut hole for one you can get drill to make hole in the
joist for wires going to next light.

5) Sneak in additional wires after electrical inspection.

6) Make holes for existing wires large to allow for additional wires.
Add small string to allow pull
new wires to outlets. Pre-drill holes in the joists, I would not use
small bit, so closing them be time
wasting exercise for builder.

7) Get clip-on electrical boxes.

I would have had to spent about $5000 to get wiring, and a 3 pairs of
stupid cheap ass no name wall
speakers, and three $7 volume controls. ( Premium theater package ).
Plus 2k alarm and automation wires.

No thanks.

Rather than hacking the job and avoiding/violating the code and
inspections, why not just get a good contractor or tell him flat out that if
he wants the job, he will need to do the job right at the right price. If
your contractor will not do the electrical right at a fair price, what makes
you think the plumbing, heating, roofing etc are any better?

--
Joseph E. Meehan

You're being misled by the O.P. For some strange reason, people who put a
deposit on a developer's house *think* they're the ones building it.

HA HA Budys Here wrote:
From: "Joseph Meehan"
....

Rather than hacking the job and avoiding/violating the code and
inspections, why not just get a good contractor or tell him flat out
that if he wants the job, he will need to do the job right at the
right price. If your contractor will not do the electrical right at
a fair price, what makes you think the plumbing, heating, roofing
etc are any better?

--
Joseph E. Meehan

You're being misled by the O.P. For some strange reason, people who
put a deposit on a developer's house *think* they're the ones
building it.

Very true. If you are buying in a development from a developer and not
hiring the contractor yourself, you must remember that the developer is
going to build a home to sell. Anything that does not fit into his idea of
what will sell in a home, is not desirable for him. This is a real business
decision for him. He has likely been stuck with homes before that were
customized in a way that made them less desirable than basic I don't blame
them for charging what they do.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

"HA HA Budys Here" wrote in message
...
From: "Mike J" thespam
I am also building new house.
Electrical work is a racket. Installing $7 HALO light cost $100
Even a Halo trim is more than 7.00.

You are wrong. HD (at least here) sells contractors pack 10 lights + 10
trims for $69

My builder claims that outlet on the dust ledge in MB must be GFI so $150
charge.
All receptacles in a Master Bath must be GFCI, Including a dust ledge.

Darn I meant MB as Master Bedroom, i don't see any water near by, or can
find any code
that requires that.

Microwave has to have dedicated curcuit, but when builder install own MW
it doesn't.
So let the builder install it.

While dumoW works hard to ship my job to India, I'll not waste money to
maximize
dumbo's economy, or builders proffits.

That is if you're capable of detecting a problem. Obviously you are not.
A
basement requires a 15a convenience outlet GFCI protected. That is all.
There
is no provision in the code requiring it be "dedicated." You'll likely get
that
outlet connected to a front and rear outdoor outlet and a garage outlet
all on
the same circuit, protected by 1 GFCI or a GFCI circuit breaker.

Fine, can it be connected to water heater as builder claims? I don't see a
big
deal if it connected to outside outlet.

An additional light or lights is work. 100.00 is getting off easy no
matter
what the height.

Not when You install six of them, or more. They are very easy to wire and
install.
The issue at bay one can do it, w/o wasting $1000s ! No need to call
electrican.

I've never known a builder or sub to even offer "pre-wire."

Ours does. Switch + wire = $50
And they are one of top 5 builders in US.

5) Sneak in additional wires after electrical inspection.
Usually, before the sheetrock goes up the electrican does a once-over.

Not true... Contractor get's paid per job. I spend a lot of time at the
site.
I think contractors started to think I am one of them. On all other houses
electrican had one visit. He does pretty good job, I never seen him fail
inspection

From: "Mike J" thespam



"HA HA Budys Here" wrote in message
...
From: "Mike J" thespam
I am also building new house.
Electrical work is a racket. Installing $7 HALO light cost $100
Even a Halo trim is more than 7.00.

You are wrong. HD (at least here) sells contractors pack 10 lights + 10
trims for $69

I've seen 6-packs for 69.00 and not HALO brand, but the HD house brand.

Even if the hi hat was free, you still have to pay for the wiring. A extra
standard ceiling light only costs about 2.50 for the cheep-o fixture they
provide, it's the outlet, switch and labor of installing the boxes, measuring,
drilling holes etc that you're paying for.


My builder claims that outlet on the dust ledge in MB must be GFI so $150
charge.
All receptacles in a Master Bath must be GFCI, Including a dust ledge.

Darn I meant MB as Master Bedroom, i don't see any water near by, or can
find any code
that requires that.

It would need AFCI protection then, in a bedroom. If it's just there for
convenience though it could be on the regular bedroom circuit.

Microwave has to have dedicated curcuit, but when builder install own MW
it doesn't.

So let the builder install it.

While dumoW works hard to ship my job to India, I'll not waste money to
maximize
dumbo's economy, or builders proffits.

That's entirely up to you, however, don't blame the subs for wanting extra
money and profit for doing extra work.

In the 80's I wired houses and they were paying 175.00 for EACH extra Hi-Hat
back then. 4 in each a room and 8 or 9 in livingrooms and dens was typical.
These houses were typically larger and not uncommon to see people either went
for it or went for nothing extra at all.

So to hear electricians are charging only 100.00 now is quite a shock to me.

That is if you're capable of detecting a problem. Obviously you are not.
A
basement requires a 15a convenience outlet GFCI protected. That is all.
There
is no provision in the code requiring it be "dedicated." You'll likely get
that
outlet connected to a front and rear outdoor outlet and a garage outlet
all on
the same circuit, protected by 1 GFCI or a GFCI circuit breaker.

Fine, can it be connected to water heater as builder claims?

No it can't and it wouldn't. It sounds to me like the "builder" is really a
salesman.

I don't see a
big
deal if it connected to outside outlet.

An additional light or lights is work. 100.00 is getting off easy no
matter
what the height.

Not when You install six of them, or more. They are very easy to wire and
install.

It's not rocket science and never was. It's still labor and materials and
profit. Usually it'll require more circuits as well especially when one uses
them in every room.

The issue at bay one can do it, w/o wasting $1000s ! No need to call
electrican.

I've never known a builder or sub to even offer "pre-wire."

Ours does. Switch + wire = $50
And they are one of top 5 builders in US.

5) Sneak in additional wires after electrical inspection.
Usually, before the sheetrock goes up the electrican does a once-over.

Not true... Contractor get's paid per job. I spend a lot of time at the
site.
I think contractors started to think I am one of them. On all other houses
electrican had one visit. He does pretty good job, I never seen him fail
inspection

From: "Mike J" thespam
[stuff about being ****ed off at his builder's electrical
wiring/installation prices]

You seem to be forgetting that even though this sort of work may not
require a lot of expensive parts or technical expertise along the
lines of computer programming, it (like plumbing) takes a lot of time.
Time is money. Get a grip.

"HA HA Budys Here" wrote in message

I've seen 6-packs for 69.00 and not HALO brand, but the HD house brand.

It is most definetly HALO. I got two packs. That is only one of the few
reasons
to ever visit HD vs Lowes.

Even if the hi hat was free, you still have to pay for the wiring. A extra
standard ceiling light only costs about 2.50 for the cheep-o fixture they
provide, it's the outlet, switch and labor of installing the boxes,
measuring,
drilling holes etc that you're paying for.

I understand. I have BS EE.

I made an effort to talk to electrician. He b*tched that builder is paying
$19/hour.
And this is not full day job... Lets see if he is willing to work
"overtime"...

I see a lot of good wiring coming....

Thanks