The only problem with this approach is that if you notch at the end you
have lost the benefit of the height of the joist. Notching a 2 x10 by
1/2 inch at the ends is a 28% loss in resistance to bending.

RB

donald girod wrote:
It's basically a pain to do it. If the existing joist is sound on the ends,
you are better off scabbing a new joist onto the side of the existing joist,
fastening securely to the ends. I have used glue as well as nails or
screws. If you have to replace the joist, you should notch it half an inch
or so on the ends where it rests on the beam or foundation so that you can
get it up on the support without too much interference from the floor above.
If there is a lot of sag in the floor already, you may have to jack up the
adjacent joists to get some clearance. Once you have it in place and
resting on the ends, you can jack it up until it is pushing up on the floor
and then drive shims in under the ends. Finally, try to toenail it to the
beam (it will be hard to swing a hammer, not much room) and bridge it to the
neighboring joists.


"Betty" wrote in message
...

I have searched the web and can't seem to find much on the replacement of
floor joist. My question is, does anyone on these newgroups know where I
can look or even if there is a video or book that could help.

I appreciate your help.

Betty

RB wrote:

The only problem with this approach is that if you notch at the end you
have lost the benefit of the height of the joist. Notching a 2 x10 by
1/2 inch at the ends is a 28% loss in resistance to bending.

I don't think that's true.. The stiffness of the joist isn't
particularly affected by what's happening at the very ends,
and notching a joist or beam to fit over a ledger isn't
particularly uncommon. A notch in the MIDDLE
of the span will weaken the joist all out of proportion
to the size of the cut.

--Goedjn