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Tony Hwang
 
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Default Seeking garage door advice



Dave wrote:

I have a 2-car garage with a wood door on the front. The opener was
replaced within the past year, but the door is old.

Within the past week or so, since the weather turned colder (20F as a
high), the door begins to close and then reverses itself. This
happens at various points, so I do not believe it to be something
directly in the track itself. There does not appear to be anything
inside the garage that is tripping the sensor (i.e., at first we
thought the car bumper was in the way or something like that), however
when viewing the door close from the outside, it looks like maybe the
wood is bulging at a seam and is squeezed just enough to trip the
opener.

If you gently push on the door as it is going down, it closes. By
"gently," I mean you can basically just put your hand on it without
much effort to push it down.

Does the cold air expand the wood and/or is this typical for a wood
door?

On a side note, we have been thinking of replacing the door anyway.
The garage is not heated, but the current door has a bulge where the
opener attaches and does not seem to help much other than keeping the
direct wind and elements from the cars. I have not looked into
pricing yet, but what would you recommend...when we decide to replace
the door, would you stick with wood?

Thank you,
Dave

Hi,
Disengage opener and manually open/close door to see if it feely moves
up/down. The spring tension is almost in neutral so you should be
able to open of close the door with touch of your hand. No
pushing/pulling needed really. I replaced wooden sectional door with
Steelcraft foam core insulated door. It has a baked on painting matched
to house color, has better rubber seals between sections and at the
bottom. Cost of the door was ~900.00.
Tony

  #2   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seeking garage door advice


"Dave" wrote in message

it looks like maybe the
wood is bulging at a seam and is squeezed just enough to trip the
opener.


Does the cold air expand the wood and/or is this typical for a wood
door?


Cold usually shrinks. If it is moisture staurated, freezing water will
expand it.


On a side note, we have been thinking of replacing the door anyway.
The garage is not heated, but the current door has a bulge where the
opener attaches and does not seem to help much other than keeping the
direct wind and elements from the cars. I have not looked into
pricing yet, but what would you recommend...when we decide to replace
the door, would you stick with wood?


A few years back I replaced our wood door with an insulated metal one. The
salesman though I was nuts to spend the extra $ for an insulated door or an
unheated detached garage. Things change though. The insulated door was
more rigid, thus one big decision maker. I've since converted the garage to
a workshop and I do heat with propane when I'm out there I'm not sorry I
spent the extra. I've also added other insulation. The paint is supposed to
last 20+ years and it does not swell like wood. The brand I bought was from
Overhead Door, but there are other well made doors out there.
Ed

http://pages.cthome.net/edhome


  #3   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seeking garage door advice


"Dave" wrote in message

it looks like maybe the
wood is bulging at a seam and is squeezed just enough to trip the
opener.


Does the cold air expand the wood and/or is this typical for a wood
door?


Cold usually shrinks. If it is moisture staurated, freezing water will
expand it.


On a side note, we have been thinking of replacing the door anyway.
The garage is not heated, but the current door has a bulge where the
opener attaches and does not seem to help much other than keeping the
direct wind and elements from the cars. I have not looked into
pricing yet, but what would you recommend...when we decide to replace
the door, would you stick with wood?


A few years back I replaced our wood door with an insulated metal one. The
salesman though I was nuts to spend the extra $ for an insulated door or an
unheated detached garage. Things change though. The insulated door was
more rigid, thus one big decision maker. I've since converted the garage to
a workshop and I do heat with propane when I'm out there I'm not sorry I
spent the extra. I've also added other insulation. The paint is supposed to
last 20+ years and it does not swell like wood. The brand I bought was from
Overhead Door, but there are other well made doors out there.
Ed

http://pages.cthome.net/edhome


  #4   Report Post  
Steve
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seeking garage door advice

It does sound like you have some binding in the door section or against the
jam..

Try operating the door without the opener attached.. If it operates freely,
the binding is being caused by the opener..

If the binding is only minor and you aren't able to correct it a the source
and you are not ready to replace the door right now, try adjusting the the
opener force sense cut out.. On my previous Sears this adjustment was a
screw inside a hole in the back of the unit..

As much as I like wooden doors, I opted for a metal door since I now live in
the Pac. NW where it is very damp.. All of the wooden doors I see, that are
several years old, are saging, bulging or are deformed in some way..


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve


  #5   Report Post  
Steve
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seeking garage door advice

It does sound like you have some binding in the door section or against the
jam..

Try operating the door without the opener attached.. If it operates freely,
the binding is being caused by the opener..

If the binding is only minor and you aren't able to correct it a the source
and you are not ready to replace the door right now, try adjusting the the
opener force sense cut out.. On my previous Sears this adjustment was a
screw inside a hole in the back of the unit..

As much as I like wooden doors, I opted for a metal door since I now live in
the Pac. NW where it is very damp.. All of the wooden doors I see, that are
several years old, are saging, bulging or are deformed in some way..


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve




  #6   Report Post  
tflfb
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seeking garage door advice

Replace the door with a steel insulated, if you decide to.

Tom
"Steve" wrote in message
...
It does sound like you have some binding in the door section or against

the
jam..

Try operating the door without the opener attached.. If it operates

freely,
the binding is being caused by the opener..

If the binding is only minor and you aren't able to correct it a the

source
and you are not ready to replace the door right now, try adjusting the the
opener force sense cut out.. On my previous Sears this adjustment was a
screw inside a hole in the back of the unit..

As much as I like wooden doors, I opted for a metal door since I now live

in
the Pac. NW where it is very damp.. All of the wooden doors I see, that

are
several years old, are saging, bulging or are deformed in some way..


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve




  #7   Report Post  
tflfb
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seeking garage door advice

Replace the door with a steel insulated, if you decide to.

Tom
"Steve" wrote in message
...
It does sound like you have some binding in the door section or against

the
jam..

Try operating the door without the opener attached.. If it operates

freely,
the binding is being caused by the opener..

If the binding is only minor and you aren't able to correct it a the

source
and you are not ready to replace the door right now, try adjusting the the
opener force sense cut out.. On my previous Sears this adjustment was a
screw inside a hole in the back of the unit..

As much as I like wooden doors, I opted for a metal door since I now live

in
the Pac. NW where it is very damp.. All of the wooden doors I see, that

are
several years old, are saging, bulging or are deformed in some way..


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve




  #8   Report Post  
SQLit
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seeking garage door advice


"Dave" wrote in message
om...
I have a 2-car garage with a wood door on the front. The opener was
replaced within the past year, but the door is old.

Within the past week or so, since the weather turned colder (20F as a
high), the door begins to close and then reverses itself. This
happens at various points, so I do not believe it to be something
directly in the track itself. There does not appear to be anything
inside the garage that is tripping the sensor (i.e., at first we
thought the car bumper was in the way or something like that), however
when viewing the door close from the outside, it looks like maybe the
wood is bulging at a seam and is squeezed just enough to trip the
opener.

If you gently push on the door as it is going down, it closes. By
"gently," I mean you can basically just put your hand on it without
much effort to push it down.

Does the cold air expand the wood and/or is this typical for a wood
door?

On a side note, we have been thinking of replacing the door anyway.
The garage is not heated, but the current door has a bulge where the
opener attaches and does not seem to help much other than keeping the
direct wind and elements from the cars. I have not looked into
pricing yet, but what would you recommend...when we decide to replace
the door, would you stick with wood?

Thank you,
Dave


look on your opener.... are there adjustments for force? up and down....
turn the knob 1/4 turn if there are.

Lube all the moving parts with Triflow, or some silicone lube that works in
low temps.


  #9   Report Post  
SQLit
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seeking garage door advice


"Dave" wrote in message
om...
I have a 2-car garage with a wood door on the front. The opener was
replaced within the past year, but the door is old.

Within the past week or so, since the weather turned colder (20F as a
high), the door begins to close and then reverses itself. This
happens at various points, so I do not believe it to be something
directly in the track itself. There does not appear to be anything
inside the garage that is tripping the sensor (i.e., at first we
thought the car bumper was in the way or something like that), however
when viewing the door close from the outside, it looks like maybe the
wood is bulging at a seam and is squeezed just enough to trip the
opener.

If you gently push on the door as it is going down, it closes. By
"gently," I mean you can basically just put your hand on it without
much effort to push it down.

Does the cold air expand the wood and/or is this typical for a wood
door?

On a side note, we have been thinking of replacing the door anyway.
The garage is not heated, but the current door has a bulge where the
opener attaches and does not seem to help much other than keeping the
direct wind and elements from the cars. I have not looked into
pricing yet, but what would you recommend...when we decide to replace
the door, would you stick with wood?

Thank you,
Dave


look on your opener.... are there adjustments for force? up and down....
turn the knob 1/4 turn if there are.

Lube all the moving parts with Triflow, or some silicone lube that works in
low temps.


  #10   Report Post  
jim
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seeking garage door advice

Dave wrote:

I have a 2-car garage with a wood door on the front. The opener was
replaced within the past year, but the door is old.

Within the past week or so, since the weather turned colder (20F as a
high), the door begins to close and then reverses itself. This
happens at various points, so I do not believe it to be something
directly in the track itself. There does not appear to be anything
inside the garage that is tripping the sensor (i.e., at first we
thought the car bumper was in the way or something like that), however
when viewing the door close from the outside, it looks like maybe the
wood is bulging at a seam and is squeezed just enough to trip the
opener.

If you gently push on the door as it is going down, it closes. By
"gently," I mean you can basically just put your hand on it without
much effort to push it down.

Does the cold air expand the wood and/or is this typical for a wood
door?

On a side note, we have been thinking of replacing the door anyway.
The garage is not heated, but the current door has a bulge where the
opener attaches and does not seem to help much other than keeping the
direct wind and elements from the cars. I have not looked into
pricing yet, but what would you recommend...when we decide to replace
the door, would you stick with wood?

Thank you,
Dave

we had a similar problem with a single garage door, when it got cold the
sears garage door would not open it.. it needed some help to bring it up
by hand.. as the sun came up and beat on the door at 11-12 noon the door
opened and closed fine.. found out it was the dirt/grease on the screw
drive.. took the screw drive down and cleaned it up with spray on auto
brake cleaner and a wire brush.. the dirt/old grease was on there like a
putty.. it really held the door back.. after the cleaning it worked
fine... never had any problems with it since.. look to see if you have
that problem or it might be the expansion or contraction of something
else with the cold weather(with me it only got down to about 40 degrees,
but that was cold in the south...hope this helps.)


  #11   Report Post  
jim
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seeking garage door advice

Dave wrote:

I have a 2-car garage with a wood door on the front. The opener was
replaced within the past year, but the door is old.

Within the past week or so, since the weather turned colder (20F as a
high), the door begins to close and then reverses itself. This
happens at various points, so I do not believe it to be something
directly in the track itself. There does not appear to be anything
inside the garage that is tripping the sensor (i.e., at first we
thought the car bumper was in the way or something like that), however
when viewing the door close from the outside, it looks like maybe the
wood is bulging at a seam and is squeezed just enough to trip the
opener.

If you gently push on the door as it is going down, it closes. By
"gently," I mean you can basically just put your hand on it without
much effort to push it down.

Does the cold air expand the wood and/or is this typical for a wood
door?

On a side note, we have been thinking of replacing the door anyway.
The garage is not heated, but the current door has a bulge where the
opener attaches and does not seem to help much other than keeping the
direct wind and elements from the cars. I have not looked into
pricing yet, but what would you recommend...when we decide to replace
the door, would you stick with wood?

Thank you,
Dave

we had a similar problem with a single garage door, when it got cold the
sears garage door would not open it.. it needed some help to bring it up
by hand.. as the sun came up and beat on the door at 11-12 noon the door
opened and closed fine.. found out it was the dirt/grease on the screw
drive.. took the screw drive down and cleaned it up with spray on auto
brake cleaner and a wire brush.. the dirt/old grease was on there like a
putty.. it really held the door back.. after the cleaning it worked
fine... never had any problems with it since.. look to see if you have
that problem or it might be the expansion or contraction of something
else with the cold weather(with me it only got down to about 40 degrees,
but that was cold in the south...hope this helps.)
  #12   Report Post  
despondent
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seeking garage door advice

Within the past week or so, since the weather turned colder (20F as a
high), the door begins to close and then reverses itself. This
happens at various points, so I do not believe it to be something
directly in the track itself. There does not appear to be anything
inside the garage that is tripping the sensor (i.e., at first we
thought the car bumper was in the way or something like that), however
when viewing the door close from the outside, it looks like maybe the
wood is bulging at a seam and is squeezed just enough to trip the
opener.


Search for the recent thread (started by me) titled "Another Craftsman
Garage OPener Start/Stop Problem with Partial Solution".

In my case, when I disconnected the door, the opener still stopped and
started. This ruled out a door resistance problem. Throwing the
up/down forces to high or max made the door work again but didn't fix
the root cause. Lubing the chain with white lithium grease spray and
spraying the gear assembly with same solved the problem... door goes
up and down fine at low force.

The spray can be had from Home Depot for three bucks or so... do a
search at homedepot.com for it.
  #13   Report Post  
despondent
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seeking garage door advice

Within the past week or so, since the weather turned colder (20F as a
high), the door begins to close and then reverses itself. This
happens at various points, so I do not believe it to be something
directly in the track itself. There does not appear to be anything
inside the garage that is tripping the sensor (i.e., at first we
thought the car bumper was in the way or something like that), however
when viewing the door close from the outside, it looks like maybe the
wood is bulging at a seam and is squeezed just enough to trip the
opener.


Search for the recent thread (started by me) titled "Another Craftsman
Garage OPener Start/Stop Problem with Partial Solution".

In my case, when I disconnected the door, the opener still stopped and
started. This ruled out a door resistance problem. Throwing the
up/down forces to high or max made the door work again but didn't fix
the root cause. Lubing the chain with white lithium grease spray and
spraying the gear assembly with same solved the problem... door goes
up and down fine at low force.

The spray can be had from Home Depot for three bucks or so... do a
search at homedepot.com for it.
  #14   Report Post  
Ace
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seeking garage door advice

I think your problem is with your old door. You said it is an old wooden
door. I bet it weighs a ton and is a real strain on your opener. The newer
doors are much lighter in weight. I would replace the door if it were me.
Those who complain about Sears openers I believe are wrong. They are
Chamberlain openers and are not made by Sears. Chamberlain sells the most
openers in the industry and have numerous brand names put on them. I think
they even make them for Stanley.

"despondent" wrote in message
...
Within the past week or so, since the weather turned colder (20F as a
high), the door begins to close and then reverses itself. This
happens at various points, so I do not believe it to be something
directly in the track itself. There does not appear to be anything
inside the garage that is tripping the sensor (i.e., at first we
thought the car bumper was in the way or something like that), however
when viewing the door close from the outside, it looks like maybe the
wood is bulging at a seam and is squeezed just enough to trip the
opener.


Search for the recent thread (started by me) titled "Another Craftsman
Garage OPener Start/Stop Problem with Partial Solution".

In my case, when I disconnected the door, the opener still stopped and
started. This ruled out a door resistance problem. Throwing the
up/down forces to high or max made the door work again but didn't fix
the root cause. Lubing the chain with white lithium grease spray and
spraying the gear assembly with same solved the problem... door goes
up and down fine at low force.

The spray can be had from Home Depot for three bucks or so... do a
search at homedepot.com for it.



  #15   Report Post  
Ace
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seeking garage door advice

I think your problem is with your old door. You said it is an old wooden
door. I bet it weighs a ton and is a real strain on your opener. The newer
doors are much lighter in weight. I would replace the door if it were me.
Those who complain about Sears openers I believe are wrong. They are
Chamberlain openers and are not made by Sears. Chamberlain sells the most
openers in the industry and have numerous brand names put on them. I think
they even make them for Stanley.

"despondent" wrote in message
...
Within the past week or so, since the weather turned colder (20F as a
high), the door begins to close and then reverses itself. This
happens at various points, so I do not believe it to be something
directly in the track itself. There does not appear to be anything
inside the garage that is tripping the sensor (i.e., at first we
thought the car bumper was in the way or something like that), however
when viewing the door close from the outside, it looks like maybe the
wood is bulging at a seam and is squeezed just enough to trip the
opener.


Search for the recent thread (started by me) titled "Another Craftsman
Garage OPener Start/Stop Problem with Partial Solution".

In my case, when I disconnected the door, the opener still stopped and
started. This ruled out a door resistance problem. Throwing the
up/down forces to high or max made the door work again but didn't fix
the root cause. Lubing the chain with white lithium grease spray and
spraying the gear assembly with same solved the problem... door goes
up and down fine at low force.

The spray can be had from Home Depot for three bucks or so... do a
search at homedepot.com for it.



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