I have recently purchased a 1975 singlewide mobile home (2x4
construction with aluminum panel siding). The unit has a Coleman
electric furnace (no heat pump), storm windows and rather minimal
insulation throughout. I am trying to decide what improvements
(if any) would be justified. The trailer is located in the
Seattle area where temperatures rarely get below the high 20's
and air conditioning is considered to be a (rarely necessary)
luxury.

A heat pump is probably out of the question due to cost.

I am considering re-insulating the floor, removing the original
"rodent barrier" and R-7 (more/less) insulation, replacing same
with R-19 stuffed between joists plus duct insulation, etc. I've
figured the cost of materials at around $400.

I've also been told (but haven't confirmed) that it would be
possible to add "blown in" insulation to the ceiling for around
$300. I haven't determined the current insulation up there, but
it is probably R-13 or R-19.

I'm planning to replace both doors (hollow core) with current
R-5 (or better) models.

I have also thought about looking at a NEW electric furnace/air
handler. However, I've received mixed reviews as to whether newer
units are really any more efficient than the originals. (However,
a new one would likely be QUIETER.)

I would greatly appreciate comments on these issues or any other
suggestions that might yield improvement. Do-it-yourself
approaches are most likely to be implemented. grin

Thanks!

MTW

"Michael T Wing CPA" wrote in message
...
I have recently purchased a 1975 singlewide mobile home (2x4
construction with aluminum panel siding). The unit has a Coleman
electric furnace (no heat pump), storm windows and rather minimal
insulation throughout. I am trying to decide what improvements
(if any) would be justified. The trailer is located in the
Seattle area where temperatures rarely get below the high 20's
and air conditioning is considered to be a (rarely necessary)
luxury.

A heat pump is probably out of the question due to cost.

In the long run it may be the cheapest solution, especially in your
area. You also gain a very effiecent air conditioner.


I am considering re-insulating the floor, removing the original
"rodent barrier" and R-7 (more/less) insulation, replacing same
with R-19 stuffed between joists plus duct insulation, etc. I've
figured the cost of materials at around $400.

Seems a little high for materials, but it may be right. If done right
it is a good idea.


I've also been told (but haven't confirmed) that it would be
possible to add "blown in" insulation to the ceiling for around
$300. I haven't determined the current insulation up there, but
it is probably R-13 or R-19.

If you are up to 19 now I would not bother, I doubt if you can get it up
far from there.


I'm planning to replace both doors (hollow core) with current
R-5 (or better) models.

I have also thought about looking at a NEW electric furnace/air
handler. However, I've received mixed reviews as to whether newer
units are really any more efficient than the originals. (However,
a new one would likely be QUIETER.)

No help here. Any direct electirc (not a heat pump) will be exactly the
same efficency, 100% Heat pumps can go over 100% and in your area they will
operate over 100% almost all the time, often far over.


I would greatly appreciate comments on these issues or any other
suggestions that might yield improvement. Do-it-yourself
approaches are most likely to be implemented. grin

Thanks!

MTW



--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

Where a greatest percentage of heat is lost is up, If possible look into
foam roofing, R 35 is minimum R 50 best for your area. You will have
to figure an extension for the sides , but look into it , see if
trailers do it. I take it you have cheap hydro elec. .05 kwh . If
not consider gas. im 0.125 kwh , double the cost of gas. For most US
elec is double that of gas. Whatever your upgrades you will will
benefit and yes more insulation is better, as standards in place are
obsolete and far from optimum. The US is cheap energy compared to most
of the world, But its going up.

m Ransley wrote:

I take it you have
cheap hydro elec. .05 kwh . If not consider gas. im 0.125
kwh , double the cost of gas. For most US elec is double that
of gas.

Yes, the electric rate here is a little over .06/kwh. Gas is a
~little~ cheaper, but not enough so to justify the cost of
converting.

Thanks for the comments,

MTW

Joseph Meehan wrote:

A heat pump is probably out of the question due to cost.

In the long run it may be the cheapest solution,
especially in your area. You also gain a very effiecent air
conditioner.

You are probably correct. The local electric company claims that
a heat pump can cut the cost of straight electric heating by
about half. Not bad, but since this savings is only in the winter
months (summer might actually REVERSE the trend if you start
relying heavily on air conditioning), the payback period is
rather long. By the same token, major insulation projects, such
as those I mentioned, might have equally lengthy paybacks.

Thanks for the comments,

MTW

Payback ? Utilitie rates will go up, and so will the value of your
property. And a mental payback is not paying as much, it feels good to
not pay high utilities

Michael T Wing CPA wrote:

Joseph Meehan wrote:

A heat pump is probably out of the question due to cost.

In the long run it may be the cheapest solution,
especially in your area. You also gain a very effiecent air
conditioner.

You are probably correct. The local electric company claims that
a heat pump can cut the cost of straight electric heating by
about half. Not bad, but since this savings is only in the winter
months (summer might actually REVERSE the trend if you start
relying heavily on air conditioning), the payback period is
rather long. By the same token, major insulation projects, such
as those I mentioned, might have equally lengthy paybacks.

Thanks for the comments,

MTW

Glad you said "local" as the overall efficiency depends on
where you live. The milder the winter, the higher the
efficiency. If you live where it is really cold, the
efficiency will approach 1:1 compared to straight resistance
heating.