I had seen a usenet article here about a month or two ago about what I also
wanted to do but I cannot locate the article/thread any more.

The thread was about adding a door sill/threshhold to a doorway between the
basement and garage. The floor beneath the wood door was concrete. I
believe the poster asked if a wood or aluminum sill would be better and also
asked for thoughts on how to install it (anchoring it, sealing it, etc.).

I have almost this exact same task to do (I have a solid wood door too) and
was hoping someone could either point me to the original post/thread or give
me similar answers/ideas on doing this job myself. i.e. how to ancor it in
the concrete, what to use for sealant, etc. I know I'll have to shorten the
wood door by a bit and I would use a portable circulat saw for this - do I
need a specific blade to cut the door (# teeth, etc.)?

The wood door sills I've seen at Home Depot are either 3 5/8" or 4 5/8"
width. Does this matter or is it a personal preference thing? I could
replace the wood door with a steel door but then I'd have to replace the
whole wood framing too so I'd prefer not to.

Thanks!
Ron

I didn't see the post but the job is relatively straight-forward.

I'd use a wooden sill if energy conservation is an issue, aluminum conducts
heat/cold (not a biggee if you are in a moderate climate). Seal the sill
with any good-quality exterior caulking (a couple of beads under it before
final install to prevent air/water penetration).

There are a number of different concrete fastening devices available at any
home store or hardware. Most require drilling a hole with a masonry bit in
the concrete and then insetting some sort of plastic/lead or fiber plug
which the screw fits into. Start by cutting the threshold to length first
then mark through the mounting holes with a pencil, remove and drill the
holes on the marks.

You shouldn't need to cut the door shorter if you get the type of threshold
that the door butts up to. If you want the type that the door goes over top
of, there is also generally a seal that fastens on the bottom of the door so
the length of the door is more critical.

If you do need to cut the door, mark the line by scribing from the floor
with a compass, pull out the hinge-pins, remove the door and cut with a
fine-tooth blade. Scoring the line on both sides with a straight-edge and
razor-blade knife will prevent chipping.

John

"Ron Rosen" wrote in message
t...
I had seen a usenet article here about a month or two ago about what I
also
wanted to do but I cannot locate the article/thread any more.

The thread was about adding a door sill/threshhold to a doorway between
the
basement and garage. The floor beneath the wood door was concrete. I
believe the poster asked if a wood or aluminum sill would be better and
also
asked for thoughts on how to install it (anchoring it, sealing it, etc.).

I have almost this exact same task to do (I have a solid wood door too)
and
was hoping someone could either point me to the original post/thread or
give
me similar answers/ideas on doing this job myself. i.e. how to ancor it
in
the concrete, what to use for sealant, etc. I know I'll have to shorten
the
wood door by a bit and I would use a portable circulat saw for this - do I
need a specific blade to cut the door (# teeth, etc.)?

The wood door sills I've seen at Home Depot are either 3 5/8" or 4 5/8"
width. Does this matter or is it a personal preference thing? I could
replace the wood door with a steel door but then I'd have to replace the
whole wood framing too so I'd prefer not to.

Thanks!
Ron

I didn't see the post but the job is relatively straight-forward.

I'd use a wooden sill if energy conservation is an issue, aluminum conducts
heat/cold (not a biggee if you are in a moderate climate). Seal the sill
with any good-quality exterior caulking (a couple of beads under it before
final install to prevent air/water penetration).

There are a number of different concrete fastening devices available at any
home store or hardware. Most require drilling a hole with a masonry bit in
the concrete and then insetting some sort of plastic/lead or fiber plug
which the screw fits into. Start by cutting the threshold to length first
then mark through the mounting holes with a pencil, remove and drill the
holes on the marks.

You shouldn't need to cut the door shorter if you get the type of threshold
that the door butts up to. If you want the type that the door goes over top
of, there is also generally a seal that fastens on the bottom of the door so
the length of the door is more critical.

If you do need to cut the door, mark the line by scribing from the floor
with a compass, pull out the hinge-pins, remove the door and cut with a
fine-tooth blade. Scoring the line on both sides with a straight-edge and
razor-blade knife will prevent chipping.

John

"Ron Rosen" wrote in message
t...
I had seen a usenet article here about a month or two ago about what I
also
wanted to do but I cannot locate the article/thread any more.

The thread was about adding a door sill/threshhold to a doorway between
the
basement and garage. The floor beneath the wood door was concrete. I
believe the poster asked if a wood or aluminum sill would be better and
also
asked for thoughts on how to install it (anchoring it, sealing it, etc.).

I have almost this exact same task to do (I have a solid wood door too)
and
was hoping someone could either point me to the original post/thread or
give
me similar answers/ideas on doing this job myself. i.e. how to ancor it
in
the concrete, what to use for sealant, etc. I know I'll have to shorten
the
wood door by a bit and I would use a portable circulat saw for this - do I
need a specific blade to cut the door (# teeth, etc.)?

The wood door sills I've seen at Home Depot are either 3 5/8" or 4 5/8"
width. Does this matter or is it a personal preference thing? I could
replace the wood door with a steel door but then I'd have to replace the
whole wood framing too so I'd prefer not to.

Thanks!
Ron

I've never seen this type of sill. My local home depot only has the under
door sill.
How would this other type work if the floor surface is completely flat on
both sides of the door?

Thanks,
Ron.
"John" wrote in message
...
I didn't see the post but the job is relatively straight-forward.

I'd use a wooden sill if energy conservation is an issue, aluminum
conducts
heat/cold (not a biggee if you are in a moderate climate). Seal the sill
with any good-quality exterior caulking (a couple of beads under it before
final install to prevent air/water penetration).

There are a number of different concrete fastening devices available at
any
home store or hardware. Most require drilling a hole with a masonry bit
in
the concrete and then insetting some sort of plastic/lead or fiber plug
which the screw fits into. Start by cutting the threshold to length first
then mark through the mounting holes with a pencil, remove and drill the
holes on the marks.

You shouldn't need to cut the door shorter if you get the type of
threshold
that the door butts up to. If you want the type that the door goes over
top
of, there is also generally a seal that fastens on the bottom of the door
so
the length of the door is more critical.

If you do need to cut the door, mark the line by scribing from the floor
with a compass, pull out the hinge-pins, remove the door and cut with a
fine-tooth blade. Scoring the line on both sides with a straight-edge and
razor-blade knife will prevent chipping.

John

"Ron Rosen" wrote in message
t...
I had seen a usenet article here about a month or two ago about what I
also
wanted to do but I cannot locate the article/thread any more.

The thread was about adding a door sill/threshhold to a doorway between
the
basement and garage. The floor beneath the wood door was concrete. I
believe the poster asked if a wood or aluminum sill would be better and
also
asked for thoughts on how to install it (anchoring it, sealing it,
etc.).

I have almost this exact same task to do (I have a solid wood door too)
and
was hoping someone could either point me to the original post/thread or
give
me similar answers/ideas on doing this job myself. i.e. how to ancor it
in
the concrete, what to use for sealant, etc. I know I'll have to shorten
the
wood door by a bit and I would use a portable circulat saw for this - do
I
need a specific blade to cut the door (# teeth, etc.)?

The wood door sills I've seen at Home Depot are either 3 5/8" or 4 5/8"
width. Does this matter or is it a personal preference thing? I could
replace the wood door with a steel door but then I'd have to replace the
whole wood framing too so I'd prefer not to.

Thanks!
Ron

I've never seen this type of sill. My local home depot only has the under
door sill.
How would this other type work if the floor surface is completely flat on
both sides of the door?

Thanks,
Ron.
"John" wrote in message
...
I didn't see the post but the job is relatively straight-forward.

I'd use a wooden sill if energy conservation is an issue, aluminum
conducts
heat/cold (not a biggee if you are in a moderate climate). Seal the sill
with any good-quality exterior caulking (a couple of beads under it before
final install to prevent air/water penetration).

There are a number of different concrete fastening devices available at
any
home store or hardware. Most require drilling a hole with a masonry bit
in
the concrete and then insetting some sort of plastic/lead or fiber plug
which the screw fits into. Start by cutting the threshold to length first
then mark through the mounting holes with a pencil, remove and drill the
holes on the marks.

You shouldn't need to cut the door shorter if you get the type of
threshold
that the door butts up to. If you want the type that the door goes over
top
of, there is also generally a seal that fastens on the bottom of the door
so
the length of the door is more critical.

If you do need to cut the door, mark the line by scribing from the floor
with a compass, pull out the hinge-pins, remove the door and cut with a
fine-tooth blade. Scoring the line on both sides with a straight-edge and
razor-blade knife will prevent chipping.

John

"Ron Rosen" wrote in message
t...
I had seen a usenet article here about a month or two ago about what I
also
wanted to do but I cannot locate the article/thread any more.

The thread was about adding a door sill/threshhold to a doorway between
the
basement and garage. The floor beneath the wood door was concrete. I
believe the poster asked if a wood or aluminum sill would be better and
also
asked for thoughts on how to install it (anchoring it, sealing it,
etc.).

I have almost this exact same task to do (I have a solid wood door too)
and
was hoping someone could either point me to the original post/thread or
give
me similar answers/ideas on doing this job myself. i.e. how to ancor it
in
the concrete, what to use for sealant, etc. I know I'll have to shorten
the
wood door by a bit and I would use a portable circulat saw for this - do
I
need a specific blade to cut the door (# teeth, etc.)?

The wood door sills I've seen at Home Depot are either 3 5/8" or 4 5/8"
width. Does this matter or is it a personal preference thing? I could
replace the wood door with a steel door but then I'd have to replace the
whole wood framing too so I'd prefer not to.

Thanks!
Ron

Ron:

They are called "bumper thresholds" and they sit on the floor on the side of
the door opposite to the direction it opens. When the door shuts, it butts
up against a seal on the threshold.

They are quite common around here (available at any building center) and
easy to install.

Here's a link with some pictures of various styles.

http://www.draftseal.com/commercial/...sholdalum.html

John

"Ron Rosen" wrote in message
et...
I've never seen this type of sill. My local home depot only has the under
door sill.
How would this other type work if the floor surface is completely flat on
both sides of the door?

Thanks,
Ron.
"John" wrote in message
...
I didn't see the post but the job is relatively straight-forward.

I'd use a wooden sill if energy conservation is an issue, aluminum
conducts
heat/cold (not a biggee if you are in a moderate climate). Seal the
sill
with any good-quality exterior caulking (a couple of beads under it
before
final install to prevent air/water penetration).

There are a number of different concrete fastening devices available at
any
home store or hardware. Most require drilling a hole with a masonry bit
in
the concrete and then insetting some sort of plastic/lead or fiber plug
which the screw fits into. Start by cutting the threshold to length
first
then mark through the mounting holes with a pencil, remove and drill the
holes on the marks.

You shouldn't need to cut the door shorter if you get the type of
threshold
that the door butts up to. If you want the type that the door goes over
top
of, there is also generally a seal that fastens on the bottom of the
door
so
the length of the door is more critical.

If you do need to cut the door, mark the line by scribing from the floor
with a compass, pull out the hinge-pins, remove the door and cut with a
fine-tooth blade. Scoring the line on both sides with a straight-edge
and
razor-blade knife will prevent chipping.

John

"Ron Rosen" wrote in message
t...
I had seen a usenet article here about a month or two ago about what I
also
wanted to do but I cannot locate the article/thread any more.

The thread was about adding a door sill/threshhold to a doorway
between
the
basement and garage. The floor beneath the wood door was concrete. I
believe the poster asked if a wood or aluminum sill would be better
and
also
asked for thoughts on how to install it (anchoring it, sealing it,
etc.).

I have almost this exact same task to do (I have a solid wood door
too)
and
was hoping someone could either point me to the original post/thread
or
give
me similar answers/ideas on doing this job myself. i.e. how to ancor
it
in
the concrete, what to use for sealant, etc. I know I'll have to
shorten
the
wood door by a bit and I would use a portable circulat saw for this -
do
I
need a specific blade to cut the door (# teeth, etc.)?

The wood door sills I've seen at Home Depot are either 3 5/8" or 4
5/8"
width. Does this matter or is it a personal preference thing? I
could
replace the wood door with a steel door but then I'd have to replace
the
whole wood framing too so I'd prefer not to.

Thanks!
Ron

Ron:

They are called "bumper thresholds" and they sit on the floor on the side of
the door opposite to the direction it opens. When the door shuts, it butts
up against a seal on the threshold.

They are quite common around here (available at any building center) and
easy to install.

Here's a link with some pictures of various styles.

http://www.draftseal.com/commercial/...sholdalum.html

John

"Ron Rosen" wrote in message
et...
I've never seen this type of sill. My local home depot only has the under
door sill.
How would this other type work if the floor surface is completely flat on
both sides of the door?

Thanks,
Ron.
"John" wrote in message
...
I didn't see the post but the job is relatively straight-forward.

I'd use a wooden sill if energy conservation is an issue, aluminum
conducts
heat/cold (not a biggee if you are in a moderate climate). Seal the
sill
with any good-quality exterior caulking (a couple of beads under it
before
final install to prevent air/water penetration).

There are a number of different concrete fastening devices available at
any
home store or hardware. Most require drilling a hole with a masonry bit
in
the concrete and then insetting some sort of plastic/lead or fiber plug
which the screw fits into. Start by cutting the threshold to length
first
then mark through the mounting holes with a pencil, remove and drill the
holes on the marks.

You shouldn't need to cut the door shorter if you get the type of
threshold
that the door butts up to. If you want the type that the door goes over
top
of, there is also generally a seal that fastens on the bottom of the
door
so
the length of the door is more critical.

If you do need to cut the door, mark the line by scribing from the floor
with a compass, pull out the hinge-pins, remove the door and cut with a
fine-tooth blade. Scoring the line on both sides with a straight-edge
and
razor-blade knife will prevent chipping.

John

"Ron Rosen" wrote in message
t...
I had seen a usenet article here about a month or two ago about what I
also
wanted to do but I cannot locate the article/thread any more.

The thread was about adding a door sill/threshhold to a doorway
between
the
basement and garage. The floor beneath the wood door was concrete. I
believe the poster asked if a wood or aluminum sill would be better
and
also
asked for thoughts on how to install it (anchoring it, sealing it,
etc.).

I have almost this exact same task to do (I have a solid wood door
too)
and
was hoping someone could either point me to the original post/thread
or
give
me similar answers/ideas on doing this job myself. i.e. how to ancor
it
in
the concrete, what to use for sealant, etc. I know I'll have to
shorten
the
wood door by a bit and I would use a portable circulat saw for this -
do
I
need a specific blade to cut the door (# teeth, etc.)?

The wood door sills I've seen at Home Depot are either 3 5/8" or 4
5/8"
width. Does this matter or is it a personal preference thing? I
could
replace the wood door with a steel door but then I'd have to replace
the
whole wood framing too so I'd prefer not to.

Thanks!
Ron

Here's a link to one that Ace Hardware sells:

http://www.brandnametools.biz/hardwa...s/_1295175.htm

and another:

http://www.cornerhardware.com/produc...502&SID=328045

John

"John" wrote in message
...
Ron:

They are called "bumper thresholds" and they sit on the floor on the side
of
the door opposite to the direction it opens. When the door shuts, it
butts
up against a seal on the threshold.

They are quite common around here (available at any building center) and
easy to install.

Here's a link with some pictures of various styles.

http://www.draftseal.com/commercial/...sholdalum.html

John

"Ron Rosen" wrote in message
et...
I've never seen this type of sill. My local home depot only has the
under
door sill.
How would this other type work if the floor surface is completely flat
on
both sides of the door?

Thanks,
Ron.
"John" wrote in message
...
I didn't see the post but the job is relatively straight-forward.

I'd use a wooden sill if energy conservation is an issue, aluminum
conducts
heat/cold (not a biggee if you are in a moderate climate). Seal the
sill
with any good-quality exterior caulking (a couple of beads under it
before
final install to prevent air/water penetration).

There are a number of different concrete fastening devices available
at
any
home store or hardware. Most require drilling a hole with a masonry
bit
in
the concrete and then insetting some sort of plastic/lead or fiber
plug
which the screw fits into. Start by cutting the threshold to length
first
then mark through the mounting holes with a pencil, remove and drill
the
holes on the marks.

You shouldn't need to cut the door shorter if you get the type of
threshold
that the door butts up to. If you want the type that the door goes
over
top
of, there is also generally a seal that fastens on the bottom of the
door
so
the length of the door is more critical.

If you do need to cut the door, mark the line by scribing from the
floor
with a compass, pull out the hinge-pins, remove the door and cut with
a
fine-tooth blade. Scoring the line on both sides with a straight-edge
and
razor-blade knife will prevent chipping.

John

"Ron Rosen" wrote in message
t...
I had seen a usenet article here about a month or two ago about what
I
also
wanted to do but I cannot locate the article/thread any more.

The thread was about adding a door sill/threshhold to a doorway
between
the
basement and garage. The floor beneath the wood door was concrete.
I
believe the poster asked if a wood or aluminum sill would be better
and
also
asked for thoughts on how to install it (anchoring it, sealing it,
etc.).

I have almost this exact same task to do (I have a solid wood door
too)
and
was hoping someone could either point me to the original post/thread
or
give
me similar answers/ideas on doing this job myself. i.e. how to
ancor
it
in
the concrete, what to use for sealant, etc. I know I'll have to
shorten
the
wood door by a bit and I would use a portable circulat saw for
this -
do
I
need a specific blade to cut the door (# teeth, etc.)?

The wood door sills I've seen at Home Depot are either 3 5/8" or 4
5/8"
width. Does this matter or is it a personal preference thing? I
could
replace the wood door with a steel door but then I'd have to replace
the
whole wood framing too so I'd prefer not to.

Thanks!
Ron

Here's a link to one that Ace Hardware sells:

http://www.brandnametools.biz/hardwa...s/_1295175.htm

and another:

http://www.cornerhardware.com/produc...502&SID=328045

John

"John" wrote in message
...
Ron:

They are called "bumper thresholds" and they sit on the floor on the side
of
the door opposite to the direction it opens. When the door shuts, it
butts
up against a seal on the threshold.

They are quite common around here (available at any building center) and
easy to install.

Here's a link with some pictures of various styles.

http://www.draftseal.com/commercial/...sholdalum.html

John

"Ron Rosen" wrote in message
et...
I've never seen this type of sill. My local home depot only has the
under
door sill.
How would this other type work if the floor surface is completely flat
on
both sides of the door?

Thanks,
Ron.
"John" wrote in message
...
I didn't see the post but the job is relatively straight-forward.

I'd use a wooden sill if energy conservation is an issue, aluminum
conducts
heat/cold (not a biggee if you are in a moderate climate). Seal the
sill
with any good-quality exterior caulking (a couple of beads under it
before
final install to prevent air/water penetration).

There are a number of different concrete fastening devices available
at
any
home store or hardware. Most require drilling a hole with a masonry
bit
in
the concrete and then insetting some sort of plastic/lead or fiber
plug
which the screw fits into. Start by cutting the threshold to length
first
then mark through the mounting holes with a pencil, remove and drill
the
holes on the marks.

You shouldn't need to cut the door shorter if you get the type of
threshold
that the door butts up to. If you want the type that the door goes
over
top
of, there is also generally a seal that fastens on the bottom of the
door
so
the length of the door is more critical.

If you do need to cut the door, mark the line by scribing from the
floor
with a compass, pull out the hinge-pins, remove the door and cut with
a
fine-tooth blade. Scoring the line on both sides with a straight-edge
and
razor-blade knife will prevent chipping.

John

"Ron Rosen" wrote in message
t...
I had seen a usenet article here about a month or two ago about what
I
also
wanted to do but I cannot locate the article/thread any more.

The thread was about adding a door sill/threshhold to a doorway
between
the
basement and garage. The floor beneath the wood door was concrete.
I
believe the poster asked if a wood or aluminum sill would be better
and
also
asked for thoughts on how to install it (anchoring it, sealing it,
etc.).

I have almost this exact same task to do (I have a solid wood door
too)
and
was hoping someone could either point me to the original post/thread
or
give
me similar answers/ideas on doing this job myself. i.e. how to
ancor
it
in
the concrete, what to use for sealant, etc. I know I'll have to
shorten
the
wood door by a bit and I would use a portable circulat saw for
this -
do
I
need a specific blade to cut the door (# teeth, etc.)?

The wood door sills I've seen at Home Depot are either 3 5/8" or 4
5/8"
width. Does this matter or is it a personal preference thing? I
could
replace the wood door with a steel door but then I'd have to replace
the
whole wood framing too so I'd prefer not to.

Thanks!
Ron