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Woodstove Hearth, Flush to Floor?
On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 15:36:17 -0000, HerHusband
wrote: We will be installing a new woodstove in our new home and are trying to plan the hearth (more accurately the hearth protection pad beneath the stove). We know we'll be using 1/2" backerboard, covered with tile. However, because the stove is located close to the entrance of a hallway, we are concerned about a raised hearth becoming a tripping hazzard as people try to "cut the corner" on their way to the hall. So, we would like to make the hearth flush with the floor. With that in mind, we are thinking of using the same 1/2" backerboard and the same tile throughout the room the woodstove will be in. Essentially we'll just be extending the hearth pad out to cover the entire floor. The woodstove would then essentially just sit on the floor of the room. Are there any problems with an arrangement like this (assuming all required clearances are followed)? You might want to consider the stoking height of the stove. Mine is installed in a workshop and by code must be 18" off the floor (in case of leaking fuel, etc.), but I glad to have that high--makes lighting, adding fuel, and removing ashes much easier. And provides a better view of the flames through the glass-paneled door! --JWW |
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Woodstove Hearth, Flush to Floor?
On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 15:36:17 +0000, HerHusband wrote:
We will be installing a new woodstove in our new home and are trying to plan the hearth (more accurately the hearth protection pad beneath the stove). We know we'll be using 1/2" backerboard, covered with tile. Just a thought. Tile may be suitable as fireproofing, but make sure you pick a very durable tile. I've been known to accidently drop a log or two when loading my stove. |
#3
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Woodstove Hearth, Flush to Floor?
On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 15:36:17 +0000, HerHusband wrote:
We will be installing a new woodstove in our new home and are trying to plan the hearth (more accurately the hearth protection pad beneath the stove). We know we'll be using 1/2" backerboard, covered with tile. Just a thought. Tile may be suitable as fireproofing, but make sure you pick a very durable tile. I've been known to accidently drop a log or two when loading my stove. |
#4
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Woodstove Hearth, Flush to Floor?
that would not be up to code--
maybe a classey brass rail? "HerHusband" wrote in message ... We will be installing a new woodstove in our new home and are trying to plan the hearth (more accurately the hearth protection pad beneath the stove). We know we'll be using 1/2" backerboard, covered with tile. However, because the stove is located close to the entrance of a hallway, we are concerned about a raised hearth becoming a tripping hazzard as people try to "cut the corner" on their way to the hall. So, we would like to make the hearth flush with the floor. With that in mind, we are thinking of using the same 1/2" backerboard and the same tile throughout the room the woodstove will be in. Essentially we'll just be extending the hearth pad out to cover the entire floor. The woodstove would then essentially just sit on the floor of the room. Are there any problems with an arrangement like this (assuming all required clearances are followed)? Anthony |
#5
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Woodstove Hearth, Flush to Floor?
that would not be up to code--
maybe a classey brass rail? "HerHusband" wrote in message ... We will be installing a new woodstove in our new home and are trying to plan the hearth (more accurately the hearth protection pad beneath the stove). We know we'll be using 1/2" backerboard, covered with tile. However, because the stove is located close to the entrance of a hallway, we are concerned about a raised hearth becoming a tripping hazzard as people try to "cut the corner" on their way to the hall. So, we would like to make the hearth flush with the floor. With that in mind, we are thinking of using the same 1/2" backerboard and the same tile throughout the room the woodstove will be in. Essentially we'll just be extending the hearth pad out to cover the entire floor. The woodstove would then essentially just sit on the floor of the room. Are there any problems with an arrangement like this (assuming all required clearances are followed)? Anthony |
#6
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Woodstove Hearth, Flush to Floor?
Bob,
One issue that many folks miss is the combustibility of the walls. We'll be following the manufacturers recommendation for the distance to the combustible walls at the rear and side of the wood stove (probably adding a little extra just to be safe). A 400lb stove placed in the center of a span will certainly test those limits. The floor is constructed of 2x10 floor joists, 16" OC, spanning a distance of 12'. That is covered with 3/4" T&G OSB plywood subfloor. The woodstove only weighs 270 pounds, and will sit right at the end of the span (The wall behind the stove is the bearing wall). You can tile over an acceptable thickness of plywood without the backerboard/cementboard/whatever Since we need the backerboard for the hearth protection, it makes sense to use the same method for the rest of the floor. Thanks for the feedback! Anthony |
#7
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Woodstove Hearth, Flush to Floor?
Bob,
One issue that many folks miss is the combustibility of the walls. We'll be following the manufacturers recommendation for the distance to the combustible walls at the rear and side of the wood stove (probably adding a little extra just to be safe). A 400lb stove placed in the center of a span will certainly test those limits. The floor is constructed of 2x10 floor joists, 16" OC, spanning a distance of 12'. That is covered with 3/4" T&G OSB plywood subfloor. The woodstove only weighs 270 pounds, and will sit right at the end of the span (The wall behind the stove is the bearing wall). You can tile over an acceptable thickness of plywood without the backerboard/cementboard/whatever Since we need the backerboard for the hearth protection, it makes sense to use the same method for the rest of the floor. Thanks for the feedback! Anthony |
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Woodstove Hearth, Flush to Floor?
Joe,
that would not be up to code-- maybe a classey brass rail? Can you provide more information as to which part of my plan would not meet code? Anthony We will be installing a new woodstove in our new home and are trying to plan the hearth (more accurately the hearth protection pad beneath the stove). We know we'll be using 1/2" backerboard, covered with tile. However, because the stove is located close to the entrance of a hallway, we are concerned about a raised hearth becoming a tripping hazzard as people try to "cut the corner" on their way to the hall. So, we would like to make the hearth flush with the floor. With that in mind, we are thinking of using the same 1/2" backerboard and the same tile throughout the room the woodstove will be in. Essentially we'll just be extending the hearth pad out to cover the entire floor. The woodstove would then essentially just sit on the floor of the room. |
#9
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Woodstove Hearth, Flush to Floor?
Joe,
that would not be up to code-- maybe a classey brass rail? Can you provide more information as to which part of my plan would not meet code? Anthony We will be installing a new woodstove in our new home and are trying to plan the hearth (more accurately the hearth protection pad beneath the stove). We know we'll be using 1/2" backerboard, covered with tile. However, because the stove is located close to the entrance of a hallway, we are concerned about a raised hearth becoming a tripping hazzard as people try to "cut the corner" on their way to the hall. So, we would like to make the hearth flush with the floor. With that in mind, we are thinking of using the same 1/2" backerboard and the same tile throughout the room the woodstove will be in. Essentially we'll just be extending the hearth pad out to cover the entire floor. The woodstove would then essentially just sit on the floor of the room. |
#11
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Woodstove Hearth, Flush to Floor?
Larry Caldwell wrote: ('nuther Bob) writes: [One issue that many folks miss is the combustibility of the walls. You can't make a combustible wall non-combustible by placing non combustible products in front of it. However, there are ways to use a non combustible product in front of a wall with the proper air gap behind it to create a less combustible wall and thereby reduce the stove to wall clearance. Be sure to pay strict attention to the manufacturers stove clearances and install any heat shields required to get those clearances.] I have also seen people carefully shield the wood stove, but neglect a bare stove pipe, which gets just as hot or hotter. A bare metal stove pipe should be at least 3' from any combustible surface, and that includes the ceiling. I suppose you mean a horizontal run, since it would be pretty hard to penetrate a ceiling if you can get within 3 feet. -- http://home.teleport.com/~larryc |
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