Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Mark & Shauna
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?



ississauga wrote:
I recently started finishing basements and find painting the trim for
baseboard and doors is very labour intensive. Has someone invented a
machine for painting these things?, like you insert the trim and pull
it thru betwen two rollers and some paint gets into it via one of the
rollers...or something like that.

Since they are very narrow, only a few inches in width, I felt a
machine would be simple. If no machine exists have you made one
yourself?


In my opinion you cant do a quality job pre-staining or pre-painting
anything with regards to trim. It always results in a substandard end
result. We, and our painting subs, always painted after installation
because you need to run a _tiny_ bead of caulk between the trim and the
plaster (or other surface) and then tape, or hand cut, rolling your wall
color slightly onto the trim, and I mean SLIGHTLY.
The only labor saving step is, which ever you choose to paint first
(wall or trim) can get onto the other surface and you only tape once. We
would most always opt to paint trim first with the progression being:
install trim
prime walls and trim
caulk all trim/wall joints
paint trim (getting trim color on wall doesnt matter so can be sprayed
or brushed)
tape trim allowing wall paint to roll _ever so slightly_ onto trim
burnish tape
paint walls
remove tape

For stained trim it would be:
Install trim
stain trim (stain gets on wall)
urethane trim (urethane gets on wall)
caulk trim
tape
burnish
prime (but dont prime right to tape as you will see the edge of the
prime coat when you remove the tape)
paint
remove tape

Whenever you stain/urethane/paint your trim first it is inevetable that
you will be left with gaps somewhere between the wall and trim. This is
especially the case if you use tape&joint drywall but is an issue with
all situations.
In our opinion the end result is far superior to any other option and
take very little extra time.
For doors we spray everything except stain. Paint is sprayed with
airless and urethane with HVLP.

Mark

  #2   Report Post  
ississauga
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Mark & Shauna wrote in message ...
caulk all trim/wall joints

Thanks for your detailed reply, can you detail what material is needed
to do the above task.

tape trim allowing wall paint to roll _ever so slightly_ onto trim

So a thin band of wall paint falls onto the trim? How wide should this
band be?

burnish tape

That means what exactly?
  #3   Report Post  
ississauga
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Mark & Shauna wrote in message ...
caulk all trim/wall joints

Thanks for your detailed reply, can you detail what material is needed
to do the above task.

tape trim allowing wall paint to roll _ever so slightly_ onto trim

So a thin band of wall paint falls onto the trim? How wide should this
band be?

burnish tape

That means what exactly?
  #4   Report Post  
Unisaw A100
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Mark & Shauna wrote:
In my opinion you cant do a quality job pre-staining or pre-painting
anything with regards to trim. It always results in a substandard end
result.


In the architectural woodworking industry (the
business I'm in) we shop finish everything. It's
anything but substandard.

http://www.awinet.org

UA100
  #5   Report Post  
Unisaw A100
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Mark & Shauna wrote:
In my opinion you cant do a quality job pre-staining or pre-painting
anything with regards to trim. It always results in a substandard end
result.


In the architectural woodworking industry (the
business I'm in) we shop finish everything. It's
anything but substandard.

http://www.awinet.org

UA100


  #6   Report Post  
Mark & Shauna
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

ississauga wrote:
Mark & Shauna wrote in message ...

caulk all trim/wall joints


Thanks for your detailed reply, can you detail what material is needed
to do the above task.


Any paintable latex caulk is fine. We used white phenoseal but whatever
you like best will work. Cut the tip as small as you can get caulk to
flow out of, run a bead, wipe with a wet rag wrapped over your finger.



tape trim allowing wall paint to roll _ever so slightly_ onto trim


So a thin band of wall paint falls onto the trim? How wide should this
band be?


As small as you can make it. The reason for one color rolling onto the
other is merely because you cant tape in the tiny radius left by the
caulking. Its easier to tape on the flat just below the radius. It can
be tricky on some trims which have a small detail right at the edge but
still doable.


burnish tape


That means what exactly?


If you ever use tape and you just apply it and perhaps press it down
with your finger you will get paint bleeding under the tape where the
tape wasnt adhered tightly to the surface. Burnishing is when you go
along the edge of the tape with something (we used the corner of a putty
knife) and rub it down adhering it tightly to the trim. If you dont do
this cleaning up the bleeding is impossible. Also remember to remove the
tape as soon as you are done with your last coat. If you wait til the
paint is dry you risk the chance of peeling/chipping the edge of the
paint leaving an ugly edge.

Mark


  #7   Report Post  
Mark & Shauna
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

ississauga wrote:
Mark & Shauna wrote in message ...

caulk all trim/wall joints


Thanks for your detailed reply, can you detail what material is needed
to do the above task.


Any paintable latex caulk is fine. We used white phenoseal but whatever
you like best will work. Cut the tip as small as you can get caulk to
flow out of, run a bead, wipe with a wet rag wrapped over your finger.



tape trim allowing wall paint to roll _ever so slightly_ onto trim


So a thin band of wall paint falls onto the trim? How wide should this
band be?


As small as you can make it. The reason for one color rolling onto the
other is merely because you cant tape in the tiny radius left by the
caulking. Its easier to tape on the flat just below the radius. It can
be tricky on some trims which have a small detail right at the edge but
still doable.


burnish tape


That means what exactly?


If you ever use tape and you just apply it and perhaps press it down
with your finger you will get paint bleeding under the tape where the
tape wasnt adhered tightly to the surface. Burnishing is when you go
along the edge of the tape with something (we used the corner of a putty
knife) and rub it down adhering it tightly to the trim. If you dont do
this cleaning up the bleeding is impossible. Also remember to remove the
tape as soon as you are done with your last coat. If you wait til the
paint is dry you risk the chance of peeling/chipping the edge of the
paint leaving an ugly edge.

Mark


  #8   Report Post  
Mark & Shauna
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Unisaw A100 wrote:
In the architectural woodworking industry (the
business I'm in) we shop finish everything. It's
anything but substandard.

http://www.awinet.org

UA100


I dont care what industry it is. Unless you have a way, in the field,
to pull the casing/trim _dead tight_ against every millimeter of its
length along the mating surface you will be left with small gaps which,
as I stated, to me make for a substandard end result.
When applying almost any trim to even the best skim coat plaster job,
wood, metal, whatever, there will be inconsistancies in both the trim
and the wall which will make for these gaps. They are especially
undesireable with light colors as they show like a sore thumb. They are
even worse when the trim is not caulked and in time the joints open up
leaving a tiny jagged edge where the paint failed to bridge the tiny crack.
Unless you have a way, and desire, to fasten the trim every couple
inches, "sucking" a piece of trim in dead tight along its entire length
is a very rare instance, at least it was for us and in time it may open
even if you got it tight on instal. Perhaps your millwork is shop
finished, then the painters who mate up to it in the field caulk the
gaps you leave when finished. I would venture to guess they do.
Perhaps you have someone hand plane each piece of trim to meet the
inconsistancies of the wall and the trim itself, I dont know. For us the
bead of caulk provided a tight finish with very little time and effort.

Mark

  #9   Report Post  
Mark & Shauna
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Unisaw A100 wrote:
In the architectural woodworking industry (the
business I'm in) we shop finish everything. It's
anything but substandard.

http://www.awinet.org

UA100


I dont care what industry it is. Unless you have a way, in the field,
to pull the casing/trim _dead tight_ against every millimeter of its
length along the mating surface you will be left with small gaps which,
as I stated, to me make for a substandard end result.
When applying almost any trim to even the best skim coat plaster job,
wood, metal, whatever, there will be inconsistancies in both the trim
and the wall which will make for these gaps. They are especially
undesireable with light colors as they show like a sore thumb. They are
even worse when the trim is not caulked and in time the joints open up
leaving a tiny jagged edge where the paint failed to bridge the tiny crack.
Unless you have a way, and desire, to fasten the trim every couple
inches, "sucking" a piece of trim in dead tight along its entire length
is a very rare instance, at least it was for us and in time it may open
even if you got it tight on instal. Perhaps your millwork is shop
finished, then the painters who mate up to it in the field caulk the
gaps you leave when finished. I would venture to guess they do.
Perhaps you have someone hand plane each piece of trim to meet the
inconsistancies of the wall and the trim itself, I dont know. For us the
bead of caulk provided a tight finish with very little time and effort.

Mark

  #10   Report Post  
Unisaw A100
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Shauna wrote:
I dont care what industry it is. Unless you have a way, in the field,
to pull the casing/trim _dead tight_ against every millimeter of its
length along the mating surface you will be left with small gaps which,
as I stated, to me make for a substandard end result.


So what do you do about all the crap that settles on your
fresh site finish?

snippage...
For us the bead of caulk provided a tight finish with very little time and effort.


OK, but I stand by my earlier statement that a shop finish
is not a substandard.

UA100


  #11   Report Post  
Unisaw A100
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Shauna wrote:
I dont care what industry it is. Unless you have a way, in the field,
to pull the casing/trim _dead tight_ against every millimeter of its
length along the mating surface you will be left with small gaps which,
as I stated, to me make for a substandard end result.


So what do you do about all the crap that settles on your
fresh site finish?

snippage...
For us the bead of caulk provided a tight finish with very little time and effort.


OK, but I stand by my earlier statement that a shop finish
is not a substandard.

UA100
  #12   Report Post  
Mark & Shauna
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Unisaw A100 wrote:
So what do you do about all the crap that settles on your
fresh site finish?


In a well orchestrated job there is very little "crap" that settles on
the "fresh site finish". This is why, many times, the painters will have
a floor or the whole house to themselves. How do you think homes get
hardwood floors that looking like a bowling alley and better? Granted
its not a "clean room" spray booth atmosphere but when you can get a
smooth as glass coat of oil urethane (8 hour or more dry time) on a
hardwood floor (site finish) I am surely not concered about the paint
which is dry in an hour or so worst case for latex, a bit longer for oil
which is my choice for millwork.

OK, but I stand by my earlier statement that a shop finish
is not a substandard.


I didnt say the shop finish was substandard, my statement was in
relation to the installation of shop finished millwork in the context of
the original post. For the average person installing prefinished trim
and casing the end result would be substandard as the concensus is that
you would get to paint the walls without having to cut anything in then
just smack your trim up and you are done. I would imagine this was what
the OP was hoping for. A way to paint roughly around all the doors,
windows, floors, etc. and then just come in and smack up the trim
already painted hence saving the tedium of cutting in. This equals
substandard.

Thicken up your skin... I am sure the millwork your industry produces is
impecable, your job is safe.

Mark

  #13   Report Post  
Mark & Shauna
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Unisaw A100 wrote:
So what do you do about all the crap that settles on your
fresh site finish?


In a well orchestrated job there is very little "crap" that settles on
the "fresh site finish". This is why, many times, the painters will have
a floor or the whole house to themselves. How do you think homes get
hardwood floors that looking like a bowling alley and better? Granted
its not a "clean room" spray booth atmosphere but when you can get a
smooth as glass coat of oil urethane (8 hour or more dry time) on a
hardwood floor (site finish) I am surely not concered about the paint
which is dry in an hour or so worst case for latex, a bit longer for oil
which is my choice for millwork.

OK, but I stand by my earlier statement that a shop finish
is not a substandard.


I didnt say the shop finish was substandard, my statement was in
relation to the installation of shop finished millwork in the context of
the original post. For the average person installing prefinished trim
and casing the end result would be substandard as the concensus is that
you would get to paint the walls without having to cut anything in then
just smack your trim up and you are done. I would imagine this was what
the OP was hoping for. A way to paint roughly around all the doors,
windows, floors, etc. and then just come in and smack up the trim
already painted hence saving the tedium of cutting in. This equals
substandard.

Thicken up your skin... I am sure the millwork your industry produces is
impecable, your job is safe.

Mark

  #14   Report Post  
Mark & Shauna
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Mary Shafer wrote:

Why would you do that? I can get caulk that matches my wall paint
exactly. No need to paint the caulk at all.

Mary


It is my opinion that painting the caulk is a better and more seamless
job. If caulking after the fact with a custom mixed caulk floats your
boat then keep right on paddling. Its not an option we have ever chosen
nor one we would ever.

Mark


  #15   Report Post  
Mark & Shauna
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Mary Shafer wrote:

Why would you do that? I can get caulk that matches my wall paint
exactly. No need to paint the caulk at all.

Mary


It is my opinion that painting the caulk is a better and more seamless
job. If caulking after the fact with a custom mixed caulk floats your
boat then keep right on paddling. Its not an option we have ever chosen
nor one we would ever.

Mark




  #16   Report Post  
Mark & Shauna
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Like I said, keep on paddling....

Mark

Mary Shafer wrote:
On Fri, 25 Jul 2003 19:47:13 -0400, Mark & Shauna wrote:


Mary Shafer wrote:


Why would you do that? I can get caulk that matches my wall paint
exactly. No need to paint the caulk at all.



It is my opinion that painting the caulk is a better and more seamless
job. If caulking after the fact with a custom mixed caulk floats your
boat then keep right on paddling. Its not an option we have ever chosen
nor one we would ever.



It's not exactly custom mixed. It's a standard caulk color. The guys
who put in our shutters said they get it in 55-gal drums. I buy it
off the shelf in a somewhat smaller put-up.

I think it looks pretty nice, to be honest. No gap, no color change,
minor texture change, uniform bead. It seems to handle temperature
change better than paint does, too.

Mary


  #17   Report Post  
Mark & Shauna
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Like I said, keep on paddling....

Mark

Mary Shafer wrote:
On Fri, 25 Jul 2003 19:47:13 -0400, Mark & Shauna wrote:


Mary Shafer wrote:


Why would you do that? I can get caulk that matches my wall paint
exactly. No need to paint the caulk at all.



It is my opinion that painting the caulk is a better and more seamless
job. If caulking after the fact with a custom mixed caulk floats your
boat then keep right on paddling. Its not an option we have ever chosen
nor one we would ever.



It's not exactly custom mixed. It's a standard caulk color. The guys
who put in our shutters said they get it in 55-gal drums. I buy it
off the shelf in a somewhat smaller put-up.

I think it looks pretty nice, to be honest. No gap, no color change,
minor texture change, uniform bead. It seems to handle temperature
change better than paint does, too.

Mary


  #18   Report Post  
Unisaw A100
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Shauna wrote:
Thicken up your skin...


Heh, heh, heh...

I am sure the millwork your industry produces is
impecable, your job is safe.


Thanks Shauna. Now, what about my raise?

UA100
  #19   Report Post  
Unisaw A100
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Shauna wrote:
Thicken up your skin...


Heh, heh, heh...

I am sure the millwork your industry produces is
impecable, your job is safe.


Thanks Shauna. Now, what about my raise?

UA100
  #20   Report Post  
Unisaw A100
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Shauna wrote:
If you are so far into it that you cant make these connections on your
own you need to schedule an appointment "on the couch" _or_ go back and
do a couple "non-high end" jobs to regain some perspective.


Now Tom, before you go off and begin typing something so
fast and furious that your toaster goes up in flames let's
try and put this in perspective. Remember the Craftsman
apologist Captain Art and his Turd Barge Sears? Remember
how he could never be wrong? Remember the puckering sound
his sphincter made when anyone said anything contrary to his
rulings? Remember the carnage?

sigh... The halcyon daze of old.

Shauna may just be reacting badly to your reply onna 'count
of your agreeing with me. Perhaps she had a bad day this
week onna 'count of the guys at the job site were making fun
of her tutu clashing with her steel tips. Don't know for
sure but I'd hate to see you get dragged into this onna
'count of me.

Remember the turd barge.

UA100, who thinks Bay Area Dave and Shauna oughtta meet up
for the ultimate love connection...


  #21   Report Post  
Unisaw A100
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?

Shauna wrote:
If you are so far into it that you cant make these connections on your
own you need to schedule an appointment "on the couch" _or_ go back and
do a couple "non-high end" jobs to regain some perspective.


Now Tom, before you go off and begin typing something so
fast and furious that your toaster goes up in flames let's
try and put this in perspective. Remember the Craftsman
apologist Captain Art and his Turd Barge Sears? Remember
how he could never be wrong? Remember the puckering sound
his sphincter made when anyone said anything contrary to his
rulings? Remember the carnage?

sigh... The halcyon daze of old.

Shauna may just be reacting badly to your reply onna 'count
of your agreeing with me. Perhaps she had a bad day this
week onna 'count of the guys at the job site were making fun
of her tutu clashing with her steel tips. Don't know for
sure but I'd hate to see you get dragged into this onna
'count of me.

Remember the turd barge.

UA100, who thinks Bay Area Dave and Shauna oughtta meet up
for the ultimate love connection...
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1200 degree High heat spray paint stinks, literally Dan Musicant Metalworking 11 August 21st 20 02:03 PM
Color NOT to paint a machine tool.... Gunner Metalworking 17 October 22nd 03 07:13 AM
Zanussi washing machine - blown program selector Mat UK diy 1 July 9th 03 02:09 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:10 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"