I'm working with some church guys on a roof shingle
project. The compressor is in the garage, at the
power socket. There is air hose going to the air
nailer, which is in use on the roof.

A couple times, the hose was not long enough to
reach. The question was raised, should we get more
hose, or an extension cord and move the compressor?

There can be problems with air flow. There is also
voltage drop in extension cords. Which should we use?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 09:27:22 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

I'm working with some church guys on a roof shingle
project. The compressor is in the garage, at the
power socket. There is air hose going to the air
nailer, which is in use on the roof.

A couple times, the hose was not long enough to
reach. The question was raised, should we get more
hose, or an extension cord and move the compressor?

There can be problems with air flow. There is also
voltage drop in extension cords. Which should we use?

Neither. Move the roof closer to the compressor thereby eliminating
the concern of air flow reductions or voltage drop.

Any time you need my help all you have to do is ask. :-)

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
I'm working with some church guys on a roof shingle
project. The compressor is in the garage, at the
power socket. There is air hose going to the air
nailer, which is in use on the roof.

A couple times, the hose was not long enough to
reach. The question was raised, should we get more
hose, or an extension cord and move the compressor?

There can be problems with air flow. There is also
voltage drop in extension cords. Which should we use?


Go with the air hose. It is probably less expensive. As you are probably
using nail guns there is very little air used at one time. I worked in a
large plant and the air line were ran for over 1000 feet to some of the
equipment with no problems.
Just get some air hose that is reasonable size and not the 1/4 inch type.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm working with some church guys on a roof shingle
project. The compressor is in the garage, at the
power socket. There is air hose going to the air
nailer, which is in use on the roof.

A couple times, the hose was not long enough to
reach. The question was raised, should we get more
hose, or an extension cord and move the compressor?

There can be problems with air flow. There is also
voltage drop in extension cords. Which should we use?

I have a 200 foot reel of 3/8" hose on my 5 HP compressor and routinely add
another 50' to reach my rental house next door for tree spraying or blowing out
the gutters. Extension cords can damage compressors. Not so, extra hose.

If you're really concerned, get a primary length of larger hose, and use regular
hose from it to the roof, but I don't think that will be an issue.

On 9/1/2015 10:15 AM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 09:27:22 -0400, Stormin Mormon
There can be problems with air flow. There is also
voltage drop in extension cords. Which should we use?

Neither. Move the roof closer to the compressor thereby eliminating
the concern of air flow reductions or voltage drop.

Any time you need my help all you have to do is ask. :-)


I can be so dense, some times. What would I
ever do without you? You are so kind.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 9/1/2015 10:33 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
Go with the air hose. It is probably less expensive. As you are probably
using nail guns there is very little air used at one time. I worked in a
large plant and the air line were ran for over 1000 feet to some of the
equipment with no problems.
Just get some air hose that is reasonable size and not the 1/4 inch type.


I've got two length of Harbor Freight hose. One is
3/8, other is 1/4.

The green vinyl hose is twisty, and looks to be PIA.
The black rubber hose is much more workable.

How about the quick connect couplers? I'd guess that
to thread the hoses together with out the couplers
would be a bit of work, but would also provide better
air flow. Need a 1/4 pipe thread coupler or union.

Quick connects are convenient, but they can't be
full flow.

In a plant, seems like it should be possible to run
rigid tubing, maybe half inch galvanized. That would
help with the air flow.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 9/1/2015 10:42 AM, Bob F wrote:
I have a 200 foot reel of 3/8" hose on my 5 HP compressor and routinely add
another 50' to reach my rental house next door for tree spraying or blowing out
the gutters. Extension cords can damage compressors. Not so, extra hose.

If you're really concerned, get a primary length of larger hose, and use regular
hose from it to the roof, but I don't think that will be an issue.


Sounds like real life experience. Thank you. I've
got two length of hose to bring along tonight. See
how that goes.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 07:42:51 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm working with some church guys on a roof shingle
project. The compressor is in the garage, at the
power socket. There is air hose going to the air
nailer, which is in use on the roof.

A couple times, the hose was not long enough to
reach. The question was raised, should we get more
hose, or an extension cord and move the compressor?

There can be problems with air flow. There is also
voltage drop in extension cords. Which should we use?

I have a 200 foot reel of 3/8" hose on my 5 HP compressor and routinely add
another 50' to reach my rental house next door for tree spraying or blowing out
the gutters. Extension cords can damage compressors. Not so, extra hose.

If you're really concerned, get a primary length of larger hose, and use regular
hose from it to the roof, but I don't think that will be an issue.


I have extended my air using a commercial grade garden hose. That will
have no problem handling the 80-100 PSI recommended for air nailers.
YMMV if you use a cheap vinyl one.
It was easy for me because my compressor uses the same fitting to get
to the piping in my shop but you can make up adapters.

On 9/1/2015 11:32 AM, wrote:
I have extended my air using a commercial grade garden hose. That will
have no problem handling the 80-100 PSI recommended for air nailers.
YMMV if you use a cheap vinyl one.
It was easy for me because my compressor uses the same fitting to get
to the piping in my shop but you can make up adapters.


The garden hose with the larger diameter will
also hold more air (between the compressor
and the nailer). That would help provide a
bit of buffer space.

I do have some garden hose. Not really needed
at present. With the air hose I have and what
is on site, we're good. I'll remember that for
future moments, when a longer run of air hose
is needed.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 10:57:52 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/1/2015 10:15 AM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 09:27:22 -0400, Stormin Mormon
There can be problems with air flow. There is also
voltage drop in extension cords. Which should we use?

Neither. Move the roof closer to the compressor thereby eliminating
the concern of air flow reductions or voltage drop.

Any time you need my help all you have to do is ask. :-)


I can be so dense, some times. What would I
ever do without you? You are so kind.

-

I believe that Gordon was being facetious. There is no way to move the roof closer to the compressor. That's just silly.

However, you could bring the shingles and nails to the compressor, shoot the nails, and then bring them back up to the roof. That would be a lot easier.

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 10:12:20 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 10:57:52 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/1/2015 10:15 AM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 09:27:22 -0400, Stormin Mormon
There can be problems with air flow. There is also
voltage drop in extension cords. Which should we use?

Neither. Move the roof closer to the compressor thereby eliminating
the concern of air flow reductions or voltage drop.

Any time you need my help all you have to do is ask. :-)


I can be so dense, some times. What would I
ever do without you? You are so kind.

-

I believe that Gordon was being facetious. There is no way to move the roof closer to the compressor. That's just silly.

However, you could bring the shingles and nails to the compressor, shoot the nails, and then bring them back up to the roof. That would be a lot easier.
Sure as long as you bring the plywood too.

On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 2:15:59 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 10:12:20 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 10:57:52 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/1/2015 10:15 AM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 09:27:22 -0400, Stormin Mormon
There can be problems with air flow. There is also
voltage drop in extension cords. Which should we use?

Neither. Move the roof closer to the compressor thereby eliminating
the concern of air flow reductions or voltage drop.

Any time you need my help all you have to do is ask. :-)


I can be so dense, some times. What would I
ever do without you? You are so kind.

-

I believe that Gordon was being facetious. There is no way to move the roof closer to the compressor. That's just silly.

However, you could bring the shingles and nails to the compressor, shoot the nails, and then bring them back up to the roof. That would be a lot easier.
Sure as long as you bring the plywood too.

....which can be brought down in easy to manage sections, such as 17" x 17".

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 11:29:17 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 2:15:59 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 10:12:20 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 10:57:52 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/1/2015 10:15 AM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 09:27:22 -0400, Stormin Mormon
There can be problems with air flow. There is also
voltage drop in extension cords. Which should we use?

Neither. Move the roof closer to the compressor thereby eliminating
the concern of air flow reductions or voltage drop.

Any time you need my help all you have to do is ask. :-)


I can be so dense, some times. What would I
ever do without you? You are so kind.

-

I believe that Gordon was being facetious. There is no way to move the roof closer to the compressor. That's just silly.

However, you could bring the shingles and nails to the compressor, shoot the nails, and then bring them back up to the roof. That would be a lot easier.
Sure as long as you bring the plywood too.

...which can be brought down in easy to manage sections, such as 17" x 17".

You guys are making this way too complicated. Use a sky-crane, lower
the roof to the ground, affix the shingles and then lift the roof back
in place with the crane. Sheesh

On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 9:27:25 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm working with some church guys on a roof shingle
project. The compressor is in the garage, at the
power socket. There is air hose going to the air
nailer, which is in use on the roof.

A couple times, the hose was not long enough to
reach. The question was raised, should we get more
hose, or an extension cord and move the compressor?

There can be problems with air flow. There is also
voltage drop in extension cords. Which should we use?

--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

OK...serious comment:

Everyone is recommending a longer air hose as opposed to an extension cord, yet no one knows anything about the circuit that the compressor is currently plugged in to.

For all we know it's 14g wire, 5000' feet from the source. The voltage drop could already be huge. Let's say you used a 10' 12g extension cord to move the compressor. Would there really be much more of a drop, enough to make any difference?

This may be one of those cases where we don't know enough about the current (pun intended) situation to really offer a definitive answer. For all we know, there is another receptacle that is physically farther from the roof but electrically closer to the source such that even after adding a decent extension cord there may be less overall voltage drop than you're getting now.

Just sayin'

On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 8:27:25 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm working with some church guys on a roof shingle
project. The compressor is in the garage, at the
power socket. There is air hose going to the air
nailer, which is in use on the roof.

A couple times, the hose was not long enough to
reach. The question was raised, should we get more
hose, or an extension cord and move the compressor?

There can be problems with air flow. There is also
voltage drop in extension cords. Which should we use?
--
.

I'm surprised nobody mentioned the simplest solution. Drill a big fraking hole in the roof and ceiling then run the hose through the ceiling and attic. Geez! ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Air Monster

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/1/2015 11:32 AM, wrote:
I have extended my air using a commercial grade garden hose. That
will have no problem handling the 80-100 PSI recommended for air
nailers. YMMV if you use a cheap vinyl one.
It was easy for me because my compressor uses the same fitting to get
to the piping in my shop but you can make up adapters.


The garden hose with the larger diameter will
also hold more air (between the compressor
and the nailer). That would help provide a
bit of buffer space.

I do have some garden hose. Not really needed
at present. With the air hose I have and what
is on site, we're good. I'll remember that for
future moments, when a longer run of air hose
is needed.

Trying to use garden hose for high pressure air hose seems really silly.

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 13:23:27 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 9:27:25 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm working with some church guys on a roof shingle
project. The compressor is in the garage, at the
power socket. There is air hose going to the air
nailer, which is in use on the roof.

A couple times, the hose was not long enough to
reach. The question was raised, should we get more
hose, or an extension cord and move the compressor?

There can be problems with air flow. There is also
voltage drop in extension cords. Which should we use?

--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

OK...serious comment:

Everyone is recommending a longer air hose as opposed to an extension cord, yet no one knows anything about the circuit that the compressor is currently plugged in to.

For all we know it's 14g wire, 5000' feet from the source. The voltage drop could already be huge. Let's say you used a 10' 12g extension cord to move the compressor. Would there really be much more of a drop, enough to make any difference?

This may be one of those cases where we don't know enough about the current (pun intended) situation to really offer a definitive answer. For all we know, there is another receptacle that is physically farther from the roof but electrically closer to the source such that even after adding a decent extension cord there may be less overall voltage drop than you're getting now.

Just sayin'

I have a 1HP (13a FLA) compressor and it would not start on a 200'
10ga cord.

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 20:05:35 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/1/2015 11:32 AM, wrote:
I have extended my air using a commercial grade garden hose. That
will have no problem handling the 80-100 PSI recommended for air
nailers. YMMV if you use a cheap vinyl one.
It was easy for me because my compressor uses the same fitting to get
to the piping in my shop but you can make up adapters.


The garden hose with the larger diameter will
also hold more air (between the compressor
and the nailer). That would help provide a
bit of buffer space.

I do have some garden hose. Not really needed
at present. With the air hose I have and what
is on site, we're good. I'll remember that for
future moments, when a longer run of air hose
is needed.

Trying to use garden hose for high pressure air hose seems really silly.


Why? They should be rated at 100 PSI minimum. City water is nominally
80 or more. Your roof nailer will run best at ~80 unless it is really
worn out.
A lot depends on the hose tho. Note that I did say "commercial grade".

On 9/1/2015 8:27 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm working with some church guys on a roof shingle
project. The compressor is in the garage, at the
power socket. There is air hose going to the air
nailer, which is in use on the roof.

A couple times, the hose was not long enough to
reach. The question was raised, should we get more
hose, or an extension cord and move the compressor?

There can be problems with air flow. There is also
voltage drop in extension cords. Which should we use?


I'd go with a 1/4 inch hose, easier to deal with and won't matter
with a nail gun. And if you don't have a palm nailer, you ought to get
one, those are pretty handy.
Cut and pasted..............
The reason that one would want a large sized hose for certain types of
air tools has to do with mass flow rate. For a given pressure
differential (whatever is in the compressor tank and zero at the air
tool's exhaust), the larger the hose, the higher the airflow.

For something like a nail gun, this typically has no effect on the force
that is applied to a given nailing stroke. The diameter of the cylinder
in the gun that applies the force to the nail head and the static air
pressure determines this force.

However, what a larger hose will do is to allow the gun to come back to
the ultimate static pressure in the system faster. So theoretically, one
could use more cycles per minute from the gun with a 3/8" hose and
connectors than one could with a 1/4" hose.

This might matter if you're nailing down T&G flooring, but generally
doesn't matter in a furniture shop.

There are other air-powered tools where the flowrate is critical to the
tool's performance - among them, spray guns and power sanders and grinders.

On 9/1/2015 1:12 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 10:57:52 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/1/2015 10:15 AM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
Neither. Move the roof closer to the compressor thereby eliminating
the concern of air flow reductions or voltage drop.

Any time you need my help all you have to do is ask. :-)


I can be so dense, some times. What would I
ever do without you? You are so kind.

-

I believe that Gordon was being facetious. There is
no way to move the roof closer to the compressor.
That's just silly.

However, you could bring the shingles and nails to
the compressor, shoot the nails, and then bring them
back up to the roof. That would be a lot easier.


What's worse, is that I had emergency work call
last night. I went to the work call with my
extension cord and air hose in the back of my
truck (call was east of me, work project was
west). I could not even stop by the house, drop
off the hose and cord and pick it up on the way
back. I telephone two men I knew would be there,
neither answered or called back. Don't even know
if the job is done. I don't get no respect. Guess
my friends are RIGHT HERE. Thank you.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 9/1/2015 2:15 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 10:12:20 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

I believe that Gordon was being facetious. There is no way to move the roof closer to the compressor. That's just silly.

However, you could bring the shingles and nails to the compressor, shoot the nails, and then bring them back up to the roof. That would be a lot easier.
Sure as long as you bring the plywood too.


Now, this is really taking shape.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 9/1/2015 4:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

OK...serious comment:

Everyone is recommending a longer air hose as opposed to
an extension cord, yet no one knows anything about the
circuit that the compressor is currently plugged in to.

For all we know it's 14g wire, 5000' feet from the source.
The voltage drop could already be huge. Let's say you used
a 10' 12g extension cord to move the compressor. Would there
really be much more of a drop, enough to make any difference?

This may be one of those cases where we don't know enough
about the current (pun intended) situation to really offer a
definitive answer. For all we know, there is another receptacle
that is physically farther from the roof but electrically closer
to the source such that even after adding a decent extension
cord there may be less overall voltage drop than you're
getting now.

Just sayin'


I've not been in the house, don't know where is the panel
box. The recepticle we've been using is a two socket
grounded one in the garage. I'd dare to guess it's
probably wired 14 GA on a 15 breaker. But, that's just
guessing. Might even be fuse panel. We don't know.

If I were in charge, I'd have opened a living room window
and plug in at the living room. But, I'm just the foreman
(really; I signed up to be the foreman). No one gives me
any respect.

I don't even know if the job is done, had emergency call
in the other direction. I've not been to the job site
yesterday.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 9/1/2015 7:39 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:

I'm surprised nobody mentioned the simplest solution.
Drill a big fraking hole in the roof and ceiling then
run the hose through the ceiling and attic. Geez! ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Air Monster


Not so simple, we'd have to drill through several
interior walls. But, it would be a more direct route.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 9/1/2015 11:05 PM, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I do have some garden hose. Not really needed
at present. With the air hose I have and what
is on site, we're good. I'll remember that for
future moments, when a longer run of air hose
is needed.

Trying to use garden hose for high pressure
air hose seems really silly.



Well, that's what redneck country coon ass do.
BTW, it's not silly if it works.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 9/2/2015 7:22 AM, Since You Axed wrote:
However, what a larger hose will do is to allow the gun to come back to
the ultimate static pressure in the system faster. So theoretically, one
could use more cycles per minute from the gun with a 3/8" hose and
connectors than one could with a 1/4" hose.

This might matter if you're nailing down T&G flooring, but generally
doesn't matter in a furniture shop.

There are other air-powered tools where the flowrate is critical to the
tool's performance - among them, spray guns and power sanders and grinders.

I didn't look at the name plates, but the two compressors
being used this week were possibly six gal tanks. Some how,
the men were able to bang nails in at a rapid rate, and the
compressors kept up.

My 3 gal oilless compressor did not have enough to power
a pistol style impact wrench. I tried.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 8:27:25 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'm working with some church guys on a roof shingle
project. The compressor is in the garage, at the
power socket. There is air hose going to the air
nailer, which is in use on the roof.

A couple times, the hose was not long enough to
reach. The question was raised, should we get more
hose, or an extension cord and move the compressor?

There can be problems with air flow. There is also
voltage drop in extension cords. Which should we use?
--
.

On a serious note, have you looked into renting a small trailer mounted air compressor or one you can put in the bed of a pickup? You can pull it around to the side of the building you're working on and the air line or lines may not have to be pulled that far. You could ask the rental store for a break since it's for work being done on a church. Around here, vendors will often donate things for work being done on churches since most of them aren't multimillion dollar mega churches. I've donated time and material for repairs to "small" churches of different faiths that I don't share simply because the members are nice people. Perhaps someone will loan you a gasoline/diesel powered air compressor? ^_^

http://tinyurl.com/nvl7btn

[8~{} Uncle Compressor Monster

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/1/2015 11:05 PM, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I do have some garden hose. Not really needed
at present. With the air hose I have and what
is on site, we're good. I'll remember that for
future moments, when a longer run of air hose
is needed.

Trying to use garden hose for high pressure
air hose seems really silly.



Well, that's what redneck country coon ass do.
BTW, it's not silly if it works.

I'm probably one of the most frugal people I've EVER met, and I'm not that
cheap. Air hoses are not that hard to find used at thrift shops or yard sales.

I came home recently to see a hose/nozzle I'd mistakenly left on, spraying water
all over the place. I checked, and the house water was up to 76 psi. It used to
be 70. Seems they've upped it, and the old hose couldn't take it. Expecting a
garden hose to handle 90-100 psi just seems to pushing it too far.

On 9/2/2015 10:23 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:

On a serious note, have you looked into renting a small
trailer mounted air compressor or one you can put in the
bed of a pickup? You can pull it around to the side of
the building you're working on and the air line or lines
may not have to be pulled that far. You could ask the
rental store for a break since it's for work being done
on a church. Around here, vendors will often donate
things for work being done on churches since most of
them aren't multimillion dollar mega churches. I've
donated time and material for repairs to "small" churches
of different faiths that I don't share simply because
the members are nice people. Perhaps someone will loan
you a gasoline/diesel powered air compressor? ^_^

http://tinyurl.com/nvl7btn

[8~{} Uncle Compressor Monster


Yesterday I had a rush emergency call, about an
hour east of here. I went, and by the time I got
back, it was nearly sun down.

I asked several people, finally one briefly emailed
back "all set, Chris". So, it's all gone for the
moment.

The trailer mounted compressor is a great idea. I'll
call around next time, maybe.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Wednesday, September 2, 2015 at 1:58:44 PM UTC-5, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/1/2015 11:05 PM, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I do have some garden hose. Not really needed
at present. With the air hose I have and what
is on site, we're good. I'll remember that for
future moments, when a longer run of air hose
is needed.

Trying to use garden hose for high pressure
air hose seems really silly.



Well, that's what redneck country coon ass do.
BTW, it's not silly if it works.

I'm probably one of the most frugal people I've EVER met, and I'm not that
cheap. Air hoses are not that hard to find used at thrift shops or yard sales.

I came home recently to see a hose/nozzle I'd mistakenly left on, spraying water
all over the place. I checked, and the house water was up to 76 psi. It used to
be 70. Seems they've upped it, and the old hose couldn't take it. Expecting a
garden hose to handle 90-100 psi just seems to pushing it too far.

I've installed/replaced a lot of water pressure regulators on the water supply for homes and businesses. The regulators are factory set at 50psi and are usually installed on the indoor supply only and the lines to the outdoor faucets are not pressure regulated. Keeping the water pressure regulated to 50psi for indoor fixtures protects the valves in the sinks, bath, toilet tank, washing machine, refrigerator, dishwasher and the water heater. Water pressure spikes on an unregulated city water service can overwhelm the TP valve on the water heater and blow the seals out of pluming fixtures and damage solenoid valves on appliances. Regulators can last for many years and if you suspect that it has failed, you can purchase an inexpensive pressure gauge one of the big box stores. Test the pressure first on an outdoor faucet then check the pressure indoors at the washing machine, water heater drain or basement mop sink if it has a garden hose thread or adapter. If you see a pressure over 50psi and it spikes to 100psi or more, you need a regulator. ^_^

http://www.watts.com/pages/_products...s.asp?pid=6805

http://www.lowes.com/pd_122812-74985-91130_0__

[8~{} Uncle Water Monster

On Wed, 2 Sep 2015 11:58:37 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/1/2015 11:05 PM, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I do have some garden hose. Not really needed
at present. With the air hose I have and what
is on site, we're good. I'll remember that for
future moments, when a longer run of air hose
is needed.

Trying to use garden hose for high pressure
air hose seems really silly.



Well, that's what redneck country coon ass do.
BTW, it's not silly if it works.

I'm probably one of the most frugal people I've EVER met, and I'm not that
cheap. Air hoses are not that hard to find used at thrift shops or yard sales.

I came home recently to see a hose/nozzle I'd mistakenly left on, spraying water
all over the place. I checked, and the house water was up to 76 psi. It used to
be 70. Seems they've upped it, and the old hose couldn't take it. Expecting a
garden hose to handle 90-100 psi just seems to pushing it too far.


You have a cheap hose. A real commercial grade hose will easily handle
200 PSI.
This was also a one time use.the way I read it

On Wed, 2 Sep 2015 17:22:23 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Wednesday, September 2, 2015 at 1:58:44 PM UTC-5, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/1/2015 11:05 PM, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I do have some garden hose. Not really needed
at present. With the air hose I have and what
is on site, we're good. I'll remember that for
future moments, when a longer run of air hose
is needed.

Trying to use garden hose for high pressure
air hose seems really silly.



Well, that's what redneck country coon ass do.
BTW, it's not silly if it works.

I'm probably one of the most frugal people I've EVER met, and I'm not that
cheap. Air hoses are not that hard to find used at thrift shops or yard sales.

I came home recently to see a hose/nozzle I'd mistakenly left on, spraying water
all over the place. I checked, and the house water was up to 76 psi. It used to
be 70. Seems they've upped it, and the old hose couldn't take it. Expecting a
garden hose to handle 90-100 psi just seems to pushing it too far.

I've installed/replaced a lot of water pressure regulators on the water supply for homes and businesses. The regulators are factory set at 50psi and are usually installed on the indoor supply only and the lines to the outdoor faucets are not pressure regulated. Keeping the water pressure regulated to 50psi for indoor fixtures protects the valves in the sinks, bath, toilet tank, washing machine, refrigerator, dishwasher and the water heater. Water pressure spikes on an unregulated city water service can overwhelm the TP valve on the water heater and blow the seals out of pluming fixtures and damage solenoid valves on appliances. Regulators can last for many years and if you suspect that it has failed, you can purchase an inexpensive pressure gauge one of the big box stores. Test the pressure first on an outdoor faucet then check the pressure indoors at the washing machine, water heater drain or basement mop sink if it has a garden hose thread or adapter. If you see a pressure over
50psi and it spikes to 100psi or more, you need a regulator. ^_^

http://www.watts.com/pages/_products...s.asp?pid=6805

http://www.lowes.com/pd_122812-74985-91130_0__


A 3GPM faucet or shower head is rated 3GPM at 80 PSI.
At 50 PSI these are more like 2GPM

On Wednesday, September 2, 2015 at 2:58:44 PM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/1/2015 11:05 PM, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I do have some garden hose. Not really needed
at present. With the air hose I have and what
is on site, we're good. I'll remember that for
future moments, when a longer run of air hose
is needed.

Trying to use garden hose for high pressure
air hose seems really silly.



Well, that's what redneck country coon ass do.
BTW, it's not silly if it works.

I'm probably one of the most frugal people I've EVER met, and I'm not that
cheap. Air hoses are not that hard to find used at thrift shops or yard sales.

I came home recently to see a hose/nozzle I'd mistakenly left on, spraying water
all over the place. I checked, and the house water was up to 76 psi. It used to
be 70. Seems they've upped it, and the old hose couldn't take it. Expecting a
garden hose to handle 90-100 psi just seems to pushing it too far.

If your garden hose can't handle 76psi, you need to buy better hoses. Your bursting may not have been caused by an increase in pressure.

I have a hose on a hose reel at the back of my house. I used it Sunday morning with no issues and then rolled it back up. A few minutes later I came around the side of the house to see water gushing from inside the rolled up hose. It had simply wore out. The internal hose had split. Luckily it was only about 5 feet from the end, so I just cut off the bad part and added a new end which, luckily again, I had in my shop.

Now, I'll admit that I didn't test the pressure, but I can be pretty sure they didn't do anything to it at 7AM on a Sunday morning.