I live in NW Washington. It rains a lot here, 69 inches so far this year, so
my firewood never gets real dry. Consequently, it produces a lot of smoke.
Compounding the problem is the length of the chimney; the distance from the
top of the stove to the top of the chimney above the roof is almost 25 feet.
I clean the chimney at least once every year and sometimes twice. Opening
the stove door almost always allows some smoke to escape unless the fire is
really hot and often a really hot fire is not necessary. So I'm stuck with a
smoky house. Is there some way (mechanical or otherwise) of creating a good
draft when it's necessary to open the stove door?

On Thu, 23 Oct 2014 12:56:59 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I live in NW Washington. It rains a lot here, 69 inches so far this year, so
my firewood never gets real dry. Consequently, it produces a lot of smoke.
Compounding the problem is the length of the chimney; the distance from the
top of the stove to the top of the chimney above the roof is almost 25 feet.
I clean the chimney at least once every year and sometimes twice. Opening
the stove door almost always allows some smoke to escape unless the fire is
really hot and often a really hot fire is not necessary. So I'm stuck with a
smoky house. Is there some way (mechanical or otherwise) of creating a good
draft when it's necessary to open the stove door?


Do you stack the wood on a rack, keep it off the ground and cover it
with a tarpaulin while it seasons? That enhances moisture removal so
it burns more efficiently, less smoke, and better BTU.

wrote in message
...

I live in NW Washington. It rains a lot here, 69 inches so far this year,
so
my firewood never gets real dry. Consequently, it produces a lot of smoke.
Compounding the problem is the length of the chimney; the distance from
the
top of the stove to the top of the chimney above the roof is almost 25
feet.

Simple cures:
1. Season firewood before you burn it, most easily done
by stacking it (after splitting) on wood pallets (off the ground)
under a rainproof roof, leaving the sides open to the wind
(which dries firewood more than it dampens it.) Do not
burn firewood until it is wholly dry to the touch and has
developed drying cracks at both ends of each log.
2. You need a positive draught up he chimney. This is
normally regulated by a trapdoor in the stove below the
level of the fire. If your stove lacks this and you do not
want to replace it, you could try extending the chimney
a couple of feet higher. Be warned that genuinely airtight
houses can inhibit the draught up the chimney.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

On 10/23/2014 2:56 PM, wrote:
I live in NW Washington. It rains a lot here, 69 inches so far this year, so
my firewood never gets real dry. Consequently, it produces a lot of smoke.
Compounding the problem is the length of the chimney; the distance from the
top of the stove to the top of the chimney above the roof is almost 25 feet.
I clean the chimney at least once every year and sometimes twice. Opening
the stove door almost always allows some smoke to escape unless the fire is
really hot and often a really hot fire is not necessary. So I'm stuck with a
smoky house. Is there some way (mechanical or otherwise) of creating a good
draft when it's necessary to open the stove door?

Generally the problem is that now houses are insulated and sealed so
tightly you don't have enough air in leakage to get a good draft
established. To check this hypothesis, open a window in the room w/ the
stove a crack and see if the issue isn't resolve...if so, then you have
to decide which is the lesser evil...

--

On 10/23/2014 03:19 PM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 23 Oct 2014 12:56:59 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


snip
ecessary to open the stove door?


Do you stack the wood on a rack, keep it off the ground and cover it
with a tarpaulin while it seasons? That enhances moisture removal so
it burns more efficiently, less smoke, and better BTU.




Absolutely right


also:

Do you have a flat stone chimney cap?


I've seen at least one house where it was just at such a height as to
cause positive pressure under it if the wind was coming from a certain
position.

All they had to do was raise it a bit to solve the problem

On 10/23/2014 4:41 PM, dpb wrote:
Generally the problem is that now houses are insulated and sealed so
tightly you don't have enough air in leakage to get a good draft
established. To check this hypothesis, open a window in the room w/ the
stove a crack and see if the issue isn't resolve...if so, then you have
to decide which is the lesser evil...

I'd have worded that "Open a window near the wood stove
a minute before opening the stove. See if there is
less smoke that leaks out."

If that helps, you may wish to run a pipe from
out doors to right behind your stove, to let
"combustion air" in.


-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/23/2014 4:53 PM, philo wrote:
Do you stack the wood on a rack, keep it off the ground and cover it
with a tarpaulin while it seasons? That enhances moisture removal so
it burns more efficiently, less smoke, and better BTU.

Absolutely right


I've seen people stock a fire box inside
the house, near the wood stove. The heat
from the stove helps dry the wood, and
also slightly humidify the house.


-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/23/2014 03:56 PM, wrote:
I live in NW Washington. It rains a lot here, 69 inches so far this year, so
my firewood never gets real dry. Consequently, it produces a lot of smoke.
Compounding the problem is the length of the chimney; the distance from the
top of the stove to the top of the chimney above the roof is almost 25 feet.
I clean the chimney at least once every year and sometimes twice. Opening
the stove door almost always allows some smoke to escape unless the fire is
really hot and often a really hot fire is not necessary. So I'm stuck with a
smoky house. Is there some way (mechanical or otherwise) of creating a good
draft when it's necessary to open the stove door?


Are you drying your firewood for a year in a wood shed?

On 10/23/14, 3:56 PM, wrote:
I live in NW Washington. It rains a lot here, 69 inches so far this year, so
my firewood never gets real dry. Consequently, it produces a lot of smoke.
Compounding the problem is the length of the chimney; the distance from the
top of the stove to the top of the chimney above the roof is almost 25 feet.
I clean the chimney at least once every year and sometimes twice. Opening
the stove door almost always allows some smoke to escape unless the fire is
really hot and often a really hot fire is not necessary. So I'm stuck with a
smoky house. Is there some way (mechanical or otherwise) of creating a good
draft when it's necessary to open the stove door?


I had a similar problem about 30 years ago. A hot fire worked, so I
knew adequate air was getting into the house.

The problem was that when the fire wasn't pulling much air, cold air
would flow down into the 8" flue. A balloon needs hot air to lift off,
and a chimney needs a "stack" of hot air to draw.

In a couple of minutes I bent some aluminum flashing into a sort of
dunce cap for the flue, reducing it from an 8" square (64 sq in) to a 3"
circle (7 sq in). Kind of like a hose nozzle.

That made the "muzzle velocity" 9 times faster, to keep cold air from
sneaking in. It was the start of a windy, rainy weekend, but that jury
rig stayed in place. There was plenty of draft with the stove door open
and a big fire, and there was still a draft after letting it burn low
for hours. Keeping the chimney warmer also reduced creosote and helped
warm the house.

On 10/23/14, 6:30 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/23/2014 4:53 PM, philo wrote:
Do you stack the wood on a rack, keep it off the ground and cover it
with a tarpaulin while it seasons? That enhances moisture removal so
it burns more efficiently, less smoke, and better BTU.

Absolutely right


I've seen people stock a fire box inside
the house, near the wood stove. The heat
from the stove helps dry the wood, and
also slightly humidify the house.



I've done that. Depending on the wood you choose, you can fill the
house with the fragrance of your choice.

It wouldn't work nowadays. Somebody walks by, his cell phone rings,
there's a spark, and all that dry wood goes up in flames!

On Thursday, October 23, 2014 3:30:24 PM UTC-7, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/23/2014 4:53 PM, philo wrote:
Do you stack the wood on a rack, keep it off the ground and cover it
with a tarpaulin while it seasons? That enhances moisture removal so
it burns more efficiently, less smoke, and better BTU.

Absolutely right


I've seen people stock a fire box inside
the house, near the wood stove. The heat
from the stove helps dry the wood, and
also slightly humidify the house.

Air for the stove is brought in through a 3" pipe from outside the house.
The top of the chimney is about a foot above the highest part of the roof.
The wood I burn is stacked in a covered shed open on three sides, off the
ground, for about a year or longer.

Your suggestion of stacking wood inside the house is a good one. I do that
to some extent but I don't have room for very much wood.

On 10/24/2014 6:05 PM, J Burns wrote:
I've seen people stock a fire box inside
the house, near the wood stove. The heat
from the stove helps dry the wood, and
also slightly humidify the house.

I've done that. Depending on the wood you choose, you can fill the
house with the fragrance of your choice.

It wouldn't work nowadays. Somebody walks by, his cell phone rings,
there's a spark, and all that dry wood goes up in flames!

You're so right! And all those exploding boilers,
and propane trucks, and oh, gosh, it's so terrible.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/24/2014 06:05 PM, J Burns wrote:
[snip] Somebody walks by, his cell phone rings, there's a spark, and all that dry wood goes up in flames!

Exactly! The pilot of the Hindenburg got a call on his cell and we all know what happened next. Oh, the humanity!

On 10/25/2014 9:11 AM, Brock O'Bama wrote:
On 10/24/2014 06:05 PM, J Burns wrote:
[snip] Somebody walks by, his cell phone rings, there's a spark, and
all that dry wood goes up in flames!

Exactly! The pilot of the Hindenburg got a call on his cell and we all
know what happened next. Oh, the humanity!

"I'll be home soon, honey. I'm just pulling
into the GAS station.... "

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/25/2014 09:16 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/25/2014 9:11 AM, Brock O'Bama wrote:
On 10/24/2014 06:05 PM, J Burns wrote:
[snip] Somebody walks by, his cell phone rings, there's a spark, and
all that dry wood goes up in flames!

Exactly! The pilot of the Hindenburg got a call on his cell and we all
know what happened next. Oh, the humanity!

"I'll be home soon, honey. I'm just pulling
into the GAS station.... "


Would you mind stopping at the grocery store on the way home? I'm in the mood for Shish Kabob Flambe.

On 10/23/14, 4:19 PM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 23 Oct 2014 12:56:59 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I live in NW Washington. It rains a lot here, 69 inches so far this year, so
my firewood never gets real dry. Consequently, it produces a lot of smoke.
Compounding the problem is the length of the chimney; the distance from the
top of the stove to the top of the chimney above the roof is almost 25 feet.
I clean the chimney at least once every year and sometimes twice. Opening
the stove door almost always allows some smoke to escape unless the fire is
really hot and often a really hot fire is not necessary. So I'm stuck with a
smoky house. Is there some way (mechanical or otherwise) of creating a good
draft when it's necessary to open the stove door?


Do you stack the wood on a rack, keep it off the ground and cover it
with a tarpaulin while it seasons? That enhances moisture removal so
it burns more efficiently, less smoke, and better BTU.

If it's under an overhang on the sunny side of a building, the sun and
wind can help drying. If on two or three occasions when you reach into
the wood pile, you get a little bite and don't know what it was, take
care. The fourth time, the copperhead may run out of patience.

On 10/24/2014 5:19 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, October 23, 2014 3:30:24 PM UTC-7, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/23/2014 4:53 PM, philo wrote:
Do you stack the wood on a rack, keep it off the ground and cover it
with a tarpaulin while it seasons? That enhances moisture removal so
it burns more efficiently, less smoke, and better BTU.

Absolutely right


I've seen people stock a fire box inside
the house, near the wood stove. The heat
from the stove helps dry the wood, and
also slightly humidify the house.

Air for the stove is brought in through a 3" pipe from outside the house.
The top of the chimney is about a foot above the highest part of the roof.
The wood I burn is stacked in a covered shed open on three sides, off the
ground, for about a year or longer.

Your suggestion of stacking wood inside the house is a good one. I do that
to some extent but I don't have room for very much wood.



Out of curiosity: How high does the chimney extent above the roof where
it comes out of the roof? My thought is the chimney *might* not be
exposed to enough cold air. We used to get smoke in the house when it
wasn't cold enough outside to get the chimney cold enough to create a
good draft. Apologies if you've already addressed this. I haven't read
all of the responses. I guess another question could be: How cold is it
outside when you fire up your fireplace? Is it blustery cold or just
cool outside? I could only use my wood burning stove when it was really
cold. Otherwise it would smoke up the place, but my chimney was only
about 4 feet above the roof line. On *really* cold nights it worked
fine. But it wouldn't get really cold until late November. I wouldn't
think of using it in October.

gonjah wrote:
Out of curiosity: How high does the chimney extent above the roof
where it comes out of the roof? My thought is the chimney *might* not
be exposed to enough cold air. We used to get smoke in the house when
it wasn't cold enough outside to get the chimney cold enough to
create a good draft. Apologies if you've already addressed this. I
haven't read all of the responses. I guess another question could be:
How cold is it outside when you fire up your fireplace? Is it
blustery cold or just cool outside? I could only use my wood burning
stove when it was really cold. Otherwise it would smoke up the place,
but my chimney was only about 4 feet above the roof line. On *really*
cold nights it worked fine. But it wouldn't get really cold until
late November. I wouldn't think of using it in October.

CAn you explain to me why having a cold upper chimney would increase the draft?
I can understand whay having cold air outside might, but it seems that a cold
chimney itself would just cool the exhaust, and lessen the draft, since the
draft is produced by the lesser density of HOT gasses.

J Burns wrote:
On 10/23/14, 4:19 PM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 23 Oct 2014 12:56:59 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I live in NW Washington. It rains a lot here, 69 inches so far this
year, so my firewood never gets real dry. Consequently, it produces
a lot of smoke. Compounding the problem is the length of the
chimney; the distance from the top of the stove to the top of the
chimney above the roof is almost 25 feet. I clean the chimney at
least once every year and sometimes twice. Opening the stove door
almost always allows some smoke to escape unless the fire is really
hot and often a really hot fire is not necessary. So I'm stuck with
a smoky house. Is there some way (mechanical or otherwise) of
creating a good draft when it's necessary to open the stove door?

Do you stack the wood on a rack, keep it off the ground and cover it
with a tarpaulin while it seasons? That enhances moisture removal so
it burns more efficiently, less smoke, and better BTU.

If it's under an overhang on the sunny side of a building, the sun and
wind can help drying. If on two or three occasions when you reach
into the wood pile, you get a little bite and don't know what it was,
take care. The fourth time, the copperhead may run out of patience.

Copperheads are not a major problem in NW Washington.

OP, you do have some kind of cover over the wood to prevent direct rainfall on
it, don't you? I built a frame with corrugated metal over mine and my wood gets
very dry here in Seattle.

On Sat, 25 Oct 2014 11:33:47 -0400, J Burns
wrote:

On 10/23/14, 4:19 PM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 23 Oct 2014 12:56:59 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I live in NW Washington. It rains a lot here, 69 inches so far this year, so
my firewood never gets real dry. Consequently, it produces a lot of smoke.
Compounding the problem is the length of the chimney; the distance from the
top of the stove to the top of the chimney above the roof is almost 25 feet.
I clean the chimney at least once every year and sometimes twice. Opening
the stove door almost always allows some smoke to escape unless the fire is
really hot and often a really hot fire is not necessary. So I'm stuck with a
smoky house. Is there some way (mechanical or otherwise) of creating a good
draft when it's necessary to open the stove door?


Do you stack the wood on a rack, keep it off the ground and cover it
with a tarpaulin while it seasons? That enhances moisture removal so
it burns more efficiently, less smoke, and better BTU.

If it's under an overhang on the sunny side of a building, the sun and
wind can help drying. If on two or three occasions when you reach into
the wood pile, you get a little bite and don't know what it was, take
care. The fourth time, the copperhead may run out of patience.

We don't burn wood now, but I do have Black Widow spiders. You can
bring in termites and other critters from fire wood. I burned Maple
while in the Adirondack Mts. of NY. I'd bring some seasoned wood into
the basement so it would dry further, removed from the rack outside,
and allowed some more drying out.

OP never mentioned what wood he burns.

On 10/25/2014 1:32 PM, Bob F wrote:
gonjah wrote:
Out of curiosity: How high does the chimney extent above the roof
where it comes out of the roof? My thought is the chimney *might* not
be exposed to enough cold air. We used to get smoke in the house when
it wasn't cold enough outside to get the chimney cold enough to
create a good draft. Apologies if you've already addressed this. I
haven't read all of the responses. I guess another question could be:
How cold is it outside when you fire up your fireplace? Is it
blustery cold or just cool outside? I could only use my wood burning
stove when it was really cold. Otherwise it would smoke up the place,
but my chimney was only about 4 feet above the roof line. On *really*
cold nights it worked fine. But it wouldn't get really cold until
late November. I wouldn't think of using it in October.

CAn you explain to me why having a cold upper chimney would increase the draft?
I can understand whay having cold air outside might, but it seems that a cold
chimney itself would just cool the exhaust, and lessen the draft, since the
draft is produced by the lesser density of HOT gasses.




Probly not and make any since. I know it was recommended I have about 4'
more chimney exposed. But I only had the one section. It worked but it
had to be cold outside. A wood stove chimney isn't the same as a trad
fireplace. It comes like:

http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Majest...FeQRMwodTmwAgw

I'm not sure what the OP has. Not following the rest of the thread.
Maybe someone can bail me out, least I be the fool.

On 10/25/2014 9:36 AM, Brock O'Bama wrote:
[snip] Somebody walks by, his cell phone rings, there's a spark, and
all that dry wood goes up in flames!

Exactly! The pilot of the Hindenburg got a call on his cell and we all
know what happened next. Oh, the humanity!

"I'll be home soon, honey. I'm just pulling
into the GAS station.... "


Would you mind stopping at the grocery store on the way home? I'm in the
mood for Shish Kabob Flambe.

The English are coming over. Get some sterno pots
for the tea setup.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

In ,
gonjah typed:
On 10/24/2014 5:19 PM, wrote:

Air for the stove is brought in through a 3" pipe from outside the
house. The top of the chimney is about a foot above the highest part
of the roof. . . . ,

Out of curiosity: How high does the chimney extent above the roof
where it comes out of the roof? My thought is the chimney *might* not
be exposed to enough cold air. We used to get smoke in the house when
it wasn't cold enough outside to get the chimney cold enough to
create a good draft. Apologies if you've already addressed this. I
haven't read all of the responses. I guess another question could be:
How cold is it outside when you fire up your fireplace? Is it
blustery cold or just cool outside? I could only use my wood burning
stove when it was really cold. Otherwise it would smoke up the place,
but my chimney was only about 4 feet above the roof line. On *really*
cold nights it worked fine. But it wouldn't get really cold until
late November. I wouldn't think of using it in October.

I am fairly certain that the code regarding the height of the chimney is
determined, in part, by the type of roof (sloped or flat) and how far the
top of the chimney is "HORIZONTALLY" from the nearest point on the roof or a
wall or other obstruction.

Basically, I think that if the top of the chimney is above the top of the
roof line, it is supposed to be at least 2 feet above the top of the roof
line. This also assumes that there is no wall or side of a building within
about 10 feet of the chimney.

For a sloped roof, where the top of the chimney is not above the top of the
roof line, the HORIZONTAL distance from the top of the chimney to the roof
is supposed to be at least 10 feet (again assuming that there is no
additional wall or side of a building near the chimney).

There are exceptions for chimneys where the only fuel being used from the
furnace and/or hot water heater below is natural gas and the chimney itself
that is coming through the roof made of what they call "B-vent".

One concept is to prevent a "down draft" down into the chimney caused by
wind across the roof.

And, I think that another concept is to have the chimney be such that it is
somewhat insulated from the outside cold air (which is one role of B-vent)
so the gases remain hot enough to continue to rise up and out of the chimney
and without causing water condensation inside the chimney.

On Sat, 25 Oct 2014 11:32:21 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

CAn you explain to me why having a cold upper chimney would increase the draft?
I can understand whay having cold air outside might, but it seems that a cold
chimney itself would just cool the exhaust, and lessen the draft, since the
draft is produced by the lesser density of HOT gasses.

I'd start the draft with a wad on burning newspaper... YMMV.

"gonjah" wrote in message
...
On 10/25/2014 1:32 PM, Bob F wrote:
gonjah wrote:
Out of curiosity: How high does the chimney
extent above the roof
where it comes out of the roof? My thought is
the chimney *might* not
be exposed to enough cold air. We used to get
smoke in the house when
it wasn't cold enough outside to get the
chimney cold enough to
create a good draft. Apologies if you've
already addressed this. I
haven't read all of the responses. I guess
another question could be:
How cold is it outside when you fire up your
fireplace? Is it
blustery cold or just cool outside? I could
only use my wood burning
stove when it was really cold. Otherwise it
would smoke up the place,
but my chimney was only about 4 feet above the
roof line. On *really*
cold nights it worked fine. But it wouldn't
get really cold until
late November. I wouldn't think of using it in
October.

CAn you explain to me why having a cold upper
chimney would increase the draft?
I can understand whay having cold air outside
might, but it seems that a cold
chimney itself would just cool the exhaust, and
lessen the draft, since the
draft is produced by the lesser density of HOT
gasses.




Probly not and make any since. I know it was
recommended I have about 4' more chimney
exposed. But I only had the one section. It
worked but it had to be cold outside. A wood
stove chimney isn't the same as a trad
fireplace. It comes like:

http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Majest...FeQRMwodTmwAgw

I'm not sure what the OP has. Not following the
rest of the thread. Maybe someone can bail me
out, least I be the fool.

You never want a cold chimney, period. The change
in
draft is normal with changes in the weather. That
hot
column of air rising out of the chimney will rise
faster
in cold air than in warm air. And the hotter that
column
of air is the better the draft. When it's warm out
the fire
is laid low so the air column is cool. When the
weather
cools the stove is cranked up so the exhaust is
hotter.
Simple as that.

"A hot house has a clean chimney"

On 10/23/14, 3:56 PM, wrote:
I live in NW Washington. It rains a lot here, 69 inches so far this year, so
my firewood never gets real dry. Consequently, it produces a lot of smoke.
Compounding the problem is the length of the chimney; the distance from the
top of the stove to the top of the chimney above the roof is almost 25 feet.
I clean the chimney at least once every year and sometimes twice. Opening
the stove door almost always allows some smoke to escape unless the fire is
really hot and often a really hot fire is not necessary. So I'm stuck with a
smoky house. Is there some way (mechanical or otherwise) of creating a good
draft when it's necessary to open the stove door?


I believe you need a chimney cap.

Decades ago, I helped my BIL build a new chimney in a house he owned.
My parents lived there. They’d had a lot of trouble with smoke and
being unable to keep the stove going all night.

The new chimney was no better. He’d read that the problem was cold air
flowing in from the top. I said all the masonry chimneys I’d used had
had a slab on top. I thought that restriction would keep cold air out.
It was a proven method, but he claimed it would restrict the draft.

I thought about it. Industrial smokestacks were actually funnels. The
cross-section at the top was typically 1/3 that at the base. Ship
smokestacks were called funnels for good reason. The stacks on the
Titanic looked like cylinders 25 feet wide, but in fact, the flues were
only 30 inches in diameter at the top. That meant the cross section at
the top was about 1% of what it appeared to be. A funnel could keep
cold air out while presenting very little restriction.

I said a metal funnel on top might work. He said it wouldn’t. I tested
it on a cold, rainy, windy Friday afternoon in November. The fire was
easier to start than before, and there was plenty of draft when I opened
the door with a roaring fire. I continued the test for three nights.
No smoke ever came out, and fires would burn all night.

He wouldn’t have it because he’d said it wouldn’t work. He bought a cap
that looked like a bird feeder, a steel frame that supported a steel
roof about 6 inches above the flue. It probably would have worked
better if the gap had been only 2 inches, as seems typical of slab
covers. Even so, it was an improvement over no cover. By keeping the
flue gases from shooting straight up, it reduced the downflow of cold
air into the flue.

You’ve gotten me interested. I see stoves are tested to find the minimum
size flues they need. The chimney could be the size of the stove
collar, but a rectangular flue needs a bigger cross section because it’s
less efficient. With a 25-foot height, you might do fine with a smaller
flue.

The BTU/hour is used to determine the minimum flue size for a gas
burner. There’s also a maximum size. If the cross section of the flue
is 7 times bigger than the minimum for the appliance, draft may be
inadequate because the appliance won’t produce enough flue gas to keep
the flue warm.

That’s the problem with wood stoves! Idling, they may lose draft
because they don’t produce enough flue gas to keep the flue warm. I’ve
found that a suitable cap can make a big difference.

On 10/26/2014 7:56 AM, J Burns wrote:

It was a proven method, but he claimed
it would restrict the draft.


I read years ago, that scientists proved
that a humming bird (or was it bumble bee)
could not fly. It's proven method, but
technology says it's not possible. No
convincing some people, after scientists
say

* Ebola is hard to catch
* Freon and carbon dioxide lead to global warming
* Weak dollar is good for the US economy
* The rich are under taxed
* Ethanol in gasoline is good for the nation
* Butter is not healthy, switch to margarine
* Chesterfields cure throat scratch


-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/25/2014 6:37 PM, Phil Kangas wrote:
"gonjah" wrote in message
...
On 10/25/2014 1:32 PM, Bob F wrote:
gonjah wrote:
Out of curiosity: How high does the chimney
extent above the roof
where it comes out of the roof? My thought is
the chimney *might* not
be exposed to enough cold air. We used to get
smoke in the house when
it wasn't cold enough outside to get the
chimney cold enough to
create a good draft. Apologies if you've
already addressed this. I
haven't read all of the responses. I guess
another question could be:
How cold is it outside when you fire up your
fireplace? Is it
blustery cold or just cool outside? I could
only use my wood burning
stove when it was really cold. Otherwise it
would smoke up the place,
but my chimney was only about 4 feet above the
roof line. On *really*
cold nights it worked fine. But it wouldn't
get really cold until
late November. I wouldn't think of using it in
October.

CAn you explain to me why having a cold upper
chimney would increase the draft?
I can understand whay having cold air outside
might, but it seems that a cold
chimney itself would just cool the exhaust, and
lessen the draft, since the
draft is produced by the lesser density of HOT
gasses.




Probly not and make any since. I know it was
recommended I have about 4' more chimney
exposed. But I only had the one section. It
worked but it had to be cold outside. A wood
stove chimney isn't the same as a trad
fireplace. It comes like:

http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Majest...FeQRMwodTmwAgw

I'm not sure what the OP has. Not following the
rest of the thread. Maybe someone can bail me
out, least I be the fool.

You never want a cold chimney, period. The change
in
draft is normal with changes in the weather. That
hot
column of air rising out of the chimney will rise
faster
in cold air than in warm air. And the hotter that
column
of air is the better the draft. When it's warm out
the fire
is laid low so the air column is cool. When the
weather
cools the stove is cranked up so the exhaust is
hotter.
Simple as that.

"A hot house has a clean chimney"




I wasn't advocating a cold chimney. That was Bob F that brought that up.
I didn't address that part of his question because "I don't know". To be
honest, I don't know why it was recommended I have 4 more feet extended
on my wood stove chimney. My questions were more out of curiosity. All I
said was the chimney worked better on cold nights.

"gonjah" wrote in message
...
On 10/25/2014 6:37 PM, Phil Kangas wrote:

I wasn't advocating a cold chimney. That was Bob F that brought that up. I
didn't address that part of his question because "I don't know". To be
honest, I don't know why it was recommended I have 4 more feet extended on
my wood stove chimney. My questions were more out of curiosity. All I said
was the chimney worked better on cold nights.

Maybe you ran the fire hotter on the cold nights to keep the house as warm
and had the draft opened up more.



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On 10/26/2014 9:18 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"gonjah" wrote in message
...
On 10/25/2014 6:37 PM, Phil Kangas wrote:

I wasn't advocating a cold chimney. That was Bob F that brought that up. I
didn't address that part of his question because "I don't know". To be
honest, I don't know why it was recommended I have 4 more feet extended on
my wood stove chimney. My questions were more out of curiosity. All I said
was the chimney worked better on cold nights.

Maybe you ran the fire hotter on the cold nights to keep the house as warm
and had the draft opened up more.



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It may have been I just needed more chimney and *I thought* it was we
needed more exposed chimney. As I recall we had about 16' of chimney.
Maybe the recommended amount was 20'.

On 10/26/2014 10:05 AM, gonjah wrote:

I didn't address that part of his question because "I don't know". To be
honest, I don't know why it was recommended I have 4 more feet extended
on my wood stove chimney. My questions were more out of curiosity. All I
said was the chimney worked better on cold nights.

You need more for at least one of two reasons

1. better draft
2. Code. I forget the rule, but the chimney must be X feet avove
anything within X feet of it.

OK, I looked it up
https://www.englanderstoves.com/help...tove/10-2.html
2 feet above anything within 10 feet.

In ,
Ed Pawlowski typed:
On 10/26/2014 10:05 AM, gonjah wrote:

I didn't address that part of his question because "I don't know".
To be honest, I don't know why it was recommended I have 4 more feet
extended on my wood stove chimney. My questions were more out of
curiosity. All I said was the chimney worked better on cold nights.

You need more for at least one of two reasons

1. better draft
2. Code. I forget the rule, but the chimney must be X feet above
anything within X feet of it.

OK, I looked it up
https://www.englanderstoves.com/help...tove/10-2.html
2 feet above anything within 10 feet.

I agree. That is basically what I was trying to explain in my earlier post
for gonjah. But the link that you provided explains it better.

Gonjah is wondering why someone suggested adding 4 more feet to the existing
chimney, and my guess is that the extra 4 feet would bring the chimney into
code and prevent down drafts by placing the top of the chimney at least 2
feet higher that anything within 10 feet of the chimney.