[Existential Angst[_2_]]

Awl --

Thanks to Bob Haller -- and other input, of course -- I found a dert simple
way to do this, with no ill effects to the car's pyooter or anything else.

Rather than fool with the pressurized supply line (the shrader valve bob
spoke of), I found the *return line* to the gas tank, and used that line.
You can distinguish the two by squeezing either with a pliers -- the supply
line (to the engine) will shut down the engine in very short order, while
the return line back to the tank does not. In fact, squeezing the return
line speeds the engine up slightly, which makes sense.

Now, in this scenario (running the engine), you wouldn't want to use the
supply line to the engine, bec you could easily starve the engine of fuel in
this transfer process, whereas the return line to the tank does not affect
the engine one whit.
However, if you are careful, you might have better results from the
pressurized supply line, being watchful of the engine idle. I opted for the
"safer" return line.

So I cut the return line (the short section that is rubber), turned on the
engine, and lo and behold, boucou fuel -- on the order of a quart in about
20 secs. For the benefit of the Butt Bros George and JoeBlow, dats 3 qts
per min, 3/4 gal/min, or about 45 gals/hr -- not too bad. I hope the Butt
Bros were able to follow that.....

Now, the other scenario is, if you are able to jump the fuel pump (which
seems to operate off a relay), then you can tap into either line, cuz you
don't need to turn the engine on. You may get a higher flow rate by using
the supply line with the engine off. And some cars may start the fuel pump
just with the ignition on, which would be nice for this.

So after filling a qt, I hose-clamped the tube together with a barbed
coupling, until I can put in a T + ball valve.
This hose is hose-clamped at either end to metal tubing anyway, no fancy
fittings like on the pressureized supply.
If I can jump the fuel pump relay, I might fool around with the pressurized
side, but the fittings on the end are pretty substantial, so the hose may
not be amenable to simple hose-clamping -- altho both the supply and return
hoses appear to be the same type of hose.

So this is a really elegant solution to transfering gas, at least from the
truck to some other vessel. I'll figger out a way to nicely transfer stored
gas to the truck, and it seems like a submersible automotive fuel pump would
be a safe way to go, altho manual pumps are certainly viable.

If this works out, I may bump up my li'l doomsday storage depot to mebbe
1,000 gals.....
The Butt Bros on Doomsday: Please, Sir, may I have more gas from your
return line?????
--
EA

[NotMe]

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...

snip

If I can jump the fuel pump relay,

Proceed carefully with jumping relays as that is part of the cut off system
in the event of an accident.

[bob haller]

On Jan 26, 3:35*pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Thanks to Bob Haller -- and other input, of course -- I found a dert simple
way to do this, with no ill effects to the car's pyooter or anything else..

Rather than fool with the pressurized supply line (the shrader valve bob
spoke of), I found the *return line* to the gas tank, and used that line.
You can distinguish the two by squeezing either with a pliers -- the supply
line (to the engine) will shut down the engine in very short order, while
the return line back to the tank does not. *In fact, squeezing the return
line speeds the engine up slightly, which makes sense.

Now, in this scenario (running the engine), you wouldn't want to use the
supply line to the engine, bec you could easily starve the engine of fuel in
this transfer process, whereas the return line to the tank does not affect
the engine one whit.
However, if you are careful, you might have better results from the
pressurized supply line, being watchful of the engine idle. *I opted for the
"safer" return line.

So I cut the return line (the short section that is rubber), turned on the
engine, and lo and behold, boucou fuel -- on the order of a quart in about
20 secs. *For the benefit of the Butt Bros George and JoeBlow, dats 3 qts
per min, *3/4 gal/min, or about 45 gals/hr -- not too bad. *I hope the Butt
Bros were able to follow that.....

Now, the other scenario is, if you are able to jump the fuel pump (which
seems to operate off a relay), then you can tap into either line, cuz you
don't need to turn the engine on. *You may get a higher flow rate by using
the supply line with the engine off. *And some cars may start the fuel pump
just with the ignition on, which would be nice for this.

So after filling a qt, I hose-clamped the tube together with a barbed
coupling, until I can put in a T + ball valve.
This hose is hose-clamped at either end to metal tubing anyway, no fancy
fittings like on the pressureized supply.
If I can jump the fuel pump relay, I might fool around with the pressurized
side, but the fittings on the end are pretty substantial, so the hose may
not be amenable to simple hose-clamping -- altho both the supply and return
hoses appear to be the same type of hose.

So this is a really elegant solution to transfering gas, at least from the
truck to some other vessel. *I'll figger out a way to nicely transfer stored
gas to the truck, and it seems like a submersible automotive fuel pump would
be a safe way to go, altho manual pumps are certainly viable.

If this works out, I may bump up my li'l doomsday storage depot to mebbe
1,000 gals.....
The Butt Bros on Doomsday: * *Please, Sir, may I have more gas from your
return line?????
--
EA

all the vehcles I ever owned with pumps in the tank turn the pump on
when you turn the ignition key on, after all fuel must be at the
engine at start up....

get in your vehicle, turn key, you will hear noise for a moment till
the fuel is up. its a normal part of vehicle operation..... once the
pressure gets up the pump shuts off........ all automatically.

you could probably buy a fuel pump tester with the schrader valve and
cut the pressure gauge off, and use that hose for a fuel line

[Existential Angst[_2_]]

"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Jan 26, 3:35 pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Thanks to Bob Haller -- and other input, of course -- I found a dert
simple
way to do this, with no ill effects to the car's pyooter or anything else.

Rather than fool with the pressurized supply line (the shrader valve bob
spoke of), I found the *return line* to the gas tank, and used that line.
You can distinguish the two by squeezing either with a pliers -- the
supply
line (to the engine) will shut down the engine in very short order, while
the return line back to the tank does not. In fact, squeezing the return
line speeds the engine up slightly, which makes sense.

Now, in this scenario (running the engine), you wouldn't want to use the
supply line to the engine, bec you could easily starve the engine of fuel
in
this transfer process, whereas the return line to the tank does not affect
the engine one whit.
However, if you are careful, you might have better results from the
pressurized supply line, being watchful of the engine idle. I opted for
the
"safer" return line.

So I cut the return line (the short section that is rubber), turned on the
engine, and lo and behold, boucou fuel -- on the order of a quart in about
20 secs. For the benefit of the Butt Bros George and JoeBlow, dats 3 qts
per min, 3/4 gal/min, or about 45 gals/hr -- not too bad. I hope the Butt
Bros were able to follow that.....

Now, the other scenario is, if you are able to jump the fuel pump (which
seems to operate off a relay), then you can tap into either line, cuz you
don't need to turn the engine on. You may get a higher flow rate by using
the supply line with the engine off. And some cars may start the fuel pump
just with the ignition on, which would be nice for this.

So after filling a qt, I hose-clamped the tube together with a barbed
coupling, until I can put in a T + ball valve.
This hose is hose-clamped at either end to metal tubing anyway, no fancy
fittings like on the pressureized supply.
If I can jump the fuel pump relay, I might fool around with the
pressurized
side, but the fittings on the end are pretty substantial, so the hose may
not be amenable to simple hose-clamping -- altho both the supply and
return
hoses appear to be the same type of hose.

So this is a really elegant solution to transfering gas, at least from the
truck to some other vessel. I'll figger out a way to nicely transfer
stored
gas to the truck, and it seems like a submersible automotive fuel pump
would
be a safe way to go, altho manual pumps are certainly viable.

If this works out, I may bump up my li'l doomsday storage depot to mebbe
1,000 gals.....
The Butt Bros on Doomsday: Please, Sir, may I have more gas from your
return line?????
--
EA

all the vehcles I ever owned with pumps in the tank turn the pump on
when you turn the ignition key on, after all fuel must be at the
engine at start up....

get in your vehicle, turn key, you will hear noise for a moment till
the fuel is up. its a normal part of vehicle operation..... once the
pressure gets up the pump shuts off........ all automatically.

you could probably buy a fuel pump tester with the schrader valve and
cut the pressure gauge off, and use that hose for a fuel line
================================================== =

The pump was f'sure not turning on with the ignition, but mebbe that was
because the line was already pressurized from earlier startups.

I'll test this by just separating the hoses relieving any pressure, and see
if the pump runs on ignition only.
I might have to cut the supply side to make this work, tho. But hopefully
it will work on the return side as well -- will proly depend on what/where
is supplying the back pressure.
--
EA

[The Daring Dufas[_8_]]

On 1/26/2013 3:43 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Jan 26, 3:35 pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Thanks to Bob Haller -- and other input, of course -- I found a dert
simple
way to do this, with no ill effects to the car's pyooter or anything else.

Rather than fool with the pressurized supply line (the shrader valve bob
spoke of), I found the *return line* to the gas tank, and used that line.
You can distinguish the two by squeezing either with a pliers -- the
supply
line (to the engine) will shut down the engine in very short order, while
the return line back to the tank does not. In fact, squeezing the return
line speeds the engine up slightly, which makes sense.

Now, in this scenario (running the engine), you wouldn't want to use the
supply line to the engine, bec you could easily starve the engine of fuel
in
this transfer process, whereas the return line to the tank does not affect
the engine one whit.
However, if you are careful, you might have better results from the
pressurized supply line, being watchful of the engine idle. I opted for
the
"safer" return line.

So I cut the return line (the short section that is rubber), turned on the
engine, and lo and behold, boucou fuel -- on the order of a quart in about
20 secs. For the benefit of the Butt Bros George and JoeBlow, dats 3 qts
per min, 3/4 gal/min, or about 45 gals/hr -- not too bad. I hope the Butt
Bros were able to follow that.....

Now, the other scenario is, if you are able to jump the fuel pump (which
seems to operate off a relay), then you can tap into either line, cuz you
don't need to turn the engine on. You may get a higher flow rate by using
the supply line with the engine off. And some cars may start the fuel pump
just with the ignition on, which would be nice for this.

So after filling a qt, I hose-clamped the tube together with a barbed
coupling, until I can put in a T + ball valve.
This hose is hose-clamped at either end to metal tubing anyway, no fancy
fittings like on the pressureized supply.
If I can jump the fuel pump relay, I might fool around with the
pressurized
side, but the fittings on the end are pretty substantial, so the hose may
not be amenable to simple hose-clamping -- altho both the supply and
return
hoses appear to be the same type of hose.

So this is a really elegant solution to transfering gas, at least from the
truck to some other vessel. I'll figger out a way to nicely transfer
stored
gas to the truck, and it seems like a submersible automotive fuel pump
would
be a safe way to go, altho manual pumps are certainly viable.

If this works out, I may bump up my li'l doomsday storage depot to mebbe
1,000 gals.....
The Butt Bros on Doomsday: Please, Sir, may I have more gas from your
return line?????
--
EA

all the vehcles I ever owned with pumps in the tank turn the pump on
when you turn the ignition key on, after all fuel must be at the
engine at start up....

get in your vehicle, turn key, you will hear noise for a moment till
the fuel is up. its a normal part of vehicle operation..... once the
pressure gets up the pump shuts off........ all automatically.

you could probably buy a fuel pump tester with the schrader valve and
cut the pressure gauge off, and use that hose for a fuel line
================================================== =

The pump was f'sure not turning on with the ignition, but mebbe that was
because the line was already pressurized from earlier startups.

I'll test this by just separating the hoses relieving any pressure, and see
if the pump runs on ignition only.
I might have to cut the supply side to make this work, tho. But hopefully
it will work on the return side as well -- will proly depend on what/where
is supplying the back pressure.


I had to drop the huge plastic gas tank on my 89 Dodge van last year to
clean the filter sock on the intake of the fuel pump which is electric
and feeds the TBI system. I found that there was an extra line capped
off that was hooked to a tube going to the bottom of the fuel tank which
I guessed was a design feature to allow mechanics to pump all the fuel
out of the gas tank before removing the tank. It was easily reached from
under the van which led me to believe what I had guessed. The return
line is designed to swirl the fuel around the pickup of the fuel pump to
prevent debris from collecting in the low spot. It's an interesting
design. I figured that drain line would be a good place to install a
pump for getting fuel or hooking up an auxiliary tank with a transfer
pump like an aircraft has. ^_^

TDD

[bob haller]

On Jan 26, 5:49*pm, The Daring Dufas the-daring-du...@stinky-
finger.net wrote:
On 1/26/2013 3:43 PM, Existential Angst wrote:





"bob haller" wrote in message
....
On Jan 26, 3:35 pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Thanks to Bob Haller -- and other input, of course -- I found a dert
simple
way to do this, with no ill effects to the car's pyooter or anything else.

Rather than fool with the pressurized supply line (the shrader valve bob
spoke of), I found the *return line* to the gas tank, and used that line.
You can distinguish the two by squeezing either with a pliers -- the
supply
line (to the engine) will shut down the engine in very short order, while
the return line back to the tank does not. In fact, squeezing the return
line speeds the engine up slightly, which makes sense.

Now, in this scenario (running the engine), you wouldn't want to use the
supply line to the engine, bec you could easily starve the engine of fuel
in
this transfer process, whereas the return line to the tank does not affect
the engine one whit.
However, if you are careful, you might have better results from the
pressurized supply line, being watchful of the engine idle. I opted for
the
"safer" return line.

So I cut the return line (the short section that is rubber), turned on the
engine, and lo and behold, boucou fuel -- on the order of a quart in about
20 secs. For the benefit of the Butt Bros George and JoeBlow, dats 3 qts
per min, 3/4 gal/min, or about 45 gals/hr -- not too bad. I hope the Butt
Bros were able to follow that.....

Now, the other scenario is, if you are able to jump the fuel pump (which
seems to operate off a relay), then you can tap into either line, cuz you
don't need to turn the engine on. You may get a higher flow rate by using
the supply line with the engine off. And some cars may start the fuel pump
just with the ignition on, which would be nice for this.

So after filling a qt, I hose-clamped the tube together with a barbed
coupling, until I can put in a T + ball valve.
This hose is hose-clamped at either end to metal tubing anyway, no fancy
fittings like on the pressureized supply.
If I can jump the fuel pump relay, I might fool around with the
pressurized
side, but the fittings on the end are pretty substantial, so the hose may
not be amenable to simple hose-clamping -- altho both the supply and
return
hoses appear to be the same type of hose.

So this is a really elegant solution to transfering gas, at least from the
truck to some other vessel. I'll figger out a way to nicely transfer
stored
gas to the truck, and it seems like a submersible automotive fuel pump
would
be a safe way to go, altho manual pumps are certainly viable.

If this works out, I may bump up my li'l doomsday storage depot to mebbe
1,000 gals.....
The Butt Bros on Doomsday: Please, Sir, may I have more gas from your
return line?????
--
EA

all the vehcles I ever owned with pumps in the tank turn the pump on
when you turn the ignition key on, after all fuel must be at the
engine at start up....

get in your vehicle, turn key, you will hear noise for a moment till
the fuel is up. its a normal part of vehicle operation..... once the
pressure gets up the pump shuts off........ all automatically.

you could probably buy a fuel pump tester with the schrader valve and
cut the pressure gauge off, and use that hose for a fuel line
================================================== =

The pump was f'sure not turning on with the ignition, but mebbe that was
because the line was already pressurized from earlier startups.

I'll test this by just separating the hoses relieving any pressure, and see
if the pump runs on ignition only.
I might have to cut the supply side to make this work, tho. *But hopefully
it will work on the return side as well -- will proly depend on what/where
is supplying the back pressure.

I had to drop the huge plastic gas tank on my 89 Dodge van last year to
clean the filter sock on the intake of the fuel pump which is electric
and feeds the TBI system. I found that there was an extra line capped
off that was hooked to a tube going to the bottom of the fuel tank which
I guessed was a design feature to allow mechanics to pump all the fuel
out of the gas tank before removing the tank. It was easily reached from
under the van which led me to believe what I had guessed. The return
line is designed to swirl the fuel around the pickup of the fuel pump to
prevent debris from collecting in the low spot. It's an interesting
design. I figured that drain line would be a good place to install a
pump for getting fuel or hooking up an auxiliary tank with a transfer
pump like an aircraft has. ^_^

TDD

Dodge REALLY needed to put a access cover in the rear of the vehicles
to access the fuel pumps.. Dropping the tank would be
unnecessary........

Just as a note DONT RUN YOU GAS TANKS WITH LOW FUEL LEVELS.....

The gasoline also cools the pumps and lots of running with low fuel
levels leads to replacing the pump

This can easily cost 4 hundred to 5 hundred dollars

[[email protected]]

On Sat, 26 Jan 2013 13:25:47 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

On Jan 26, 3:35*pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Thanks to Bob Haller -- and other input, of course -- I found a dert simple
way to do this, with no ill effects to the car's pyooter or anything else.

Rather than fool with the pressurized supply line (the shrader valve bob
spoke of), I found the *return line* to the gas tank, and used that line.
You can distinguish the two by squeezing either with a pliers -- the supply
line (to the engine) will shut down the engine in very short order, while
the return line back to the tank does not. *In fact, squeezing the return
line speeds the engine up slightly, which makes sense.

Now, in this scenario (running the engine), you wouldn't want to use the
supply line to the engine, bec you could easily starve the engine of fuel in
this transfer process, whereas the return line to the tank does not affect
the engine one whit.
However, if you are careful, you might have better results from the
pressurized supply line, being watchful of the engine idle. *I opted for the
"safer" return line.

So I cut the return line (the short section that is rubber), turned on the
engine, and lo and behold, boucou fuel -- on the order of a quart in about
20 secs. *For the benefit of the Butt Bros George and JoeBlow, dats 3 qts
per min, *3/4 gal/min, or about 45 gals/hr -- not too bad. *I hope the Butt
Bros were able to follow that.....

Now, the other scenario is, if you are able to jump the fuel pump (which
seems to operate off a relay), then you can tap into either line, cuz you
don't need to turn the engine on. *You may get a higher flow rate by using
the supply line with the engine off. *And some cars may start the fuel pump
just with the ignition on, which would be nice for this.

So after filling a qt, I hose-clamped the tube together with a barbed
coupling, until I can put in a T + ball valve.
This hose is hose-clamped at either end to metal tubing anyway, no fancy
fittings like on the pressureized supply.
If I can jump the fuel pump relay, I might fool around with the pressurized
side, but the fittings on the end are pretty substantial, so the hose may
not be amenable to simple hose-clamping -- altho both the supply and return
hoses appear to be the same type of hose.

So this is a really elegant solution to transfering gas, at least from the
truck to some other vessel. *I'll figger out a way to nicely transfer stored
gas to the truck, and it seems like a submersible automotive fuel pump would
be a safe way to go, altho manual pumps are certainly viable.

If this works out, I may bump up my li'l doomsday storage depot to mebbe
1,000 gals.....
The Butt Bros on Doomsday: * *Please, Sir, may I have more gas from your
return line?????
--
EA

all the vehcles I ever owned with pumps in the tank turn the pump on
when you turn the ignition key on, after all fuel must be at the
engine at start up....

get in your vehicle, turn key, you will hear noise for a moment till
the fuel is up. its a normal part of vehicle operation..... once the
pressure gets up the pump shuts off........ all automatically.

It is not pressure dependent - it is timer - in most cases 3 seconds

you could probably buy a fuel pump tester with the schrader valve and
cut the pressure gauge off, and use that hose for a fuel line

[Stormin Mormon[_7_]]

On my 89 Blazer, I used a sawzall to change the pump from the top.

Low fuel caution is very important. Also, don't buy the high sulfur fuel
from Shell, which destroys fuel gage sending units.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"bob haller" wrote in message
...

Dodge REALLY needed to put a access cover in the rear of the vehicles
to access the fuel pumps.. Dropping the tank would be
unnecessary........

Just as a note DONT RUN YOU GAS TANKS WITH LOW FUEL LEVELS.....

The gasoline also cools the pumps and lots of running with low fuel
levels leads to replacing the pump

This can easily cost 4 hundred to 5 hundred dollars

[Stanley Schaefer]

On Jan 26, 6:43*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 26 Jan 2013 13:25:47 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:





On Jan 26, 3:35*pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Thanks to Bob Haller -- and other input, of course -- I found a dert simple
way to do this, with no ill effects to the car's pyooter or anything else.

Rather than fool with the pressurized supply line (the shrader valve bob
spoke of), I found the *return line* to the gas tank, and used that line.
You can distinguish the two by squeezing either with a pliers -- the supply
line (to the engine) will shut down the engine in very short order, while
the return line back to the tank does not. *In fact, squeezing the return
line speeds the engine up slightly, which makes sense.

Now, in this scenario (running the engine), you wouldn't want to use the
supply line to the engine, bec you could easily starve the engine of fuel in
this transfer process, whereas the return line to the tank does not affect
the engine one whit.
However, if you are careful, you might have better results from the
pressurized supply line, being watchful of the engine idle. *I opted for the
"safer" return line.

So I cut the return line (the short section that is rubber), turned on the
engine, and lo and behold, boucou fuel -- on the order of a quart in about
20 secs. *For the benefit of the Butt Bros George and JoeBlow, dats 3 qts
per min, *3/4 gal/min, or about 45 gals/hr -- not too bad. *I hope the Butt
Bros were able to follow that.....

Now, the other scenario is, if you are able to jump the fuel pump (which
seems to operate off a relay), then you can tap into either line, cuz you
don't need to turn the engine on. *You may get a higher flow rate by using
the supply line with the engine off. *And some cars may start the fuel pump
just with the ignition on, which would be nice for this.

So after filling a qt, I hose-clamped the tube together with a barbed
coupling, until I can put in a T + ball valve.
This hose is hose-clamped at either end to metal tubing anyway, no fancy
fittings like on the pressureized supply.
If I can jump the fuel pump relay, I might fool around with the pressurized
side, but the fittings on the end are pretty substantial, so the hose may
not be amenable to simple hose-clamping -- altho both the supply and return
hoses appear to be the same type of hose.

So this is a really elegant solution to transfering gas, at least from the
truck to some other vessel. *I'll figger out a way to nicely transfer stored
gas to the truck, and it seems like a submersible automotive fuel pump would
be a safe way to go, altho manual pumps are certainly viable.

If this works out, I may bump up my li'l doomsday storage depot to mebbe
1,000 gals.....
The Butt Bros on Doomsday: * *Please, Sir, may I have more gas from your
return line?????
--
EA

all the vehcles I ever owned with pumps in the tank turn the pump on
when you turn the ignition key on, after all fuel must be at the
engine at start up....

get in your vehicle, turn key, you will hear noise for a moment till
the fuel is up. its a normal part of vehicle operation..... once the
pressure gets up the pump shuts off........ all automatically.

It is not pressure dependent - it is timer - in most cases 3 seconds



Timer AND engine not turning over. Keeps the pump from barbequeing
the occupants if there's an accident and the one or more of the fuel
lines is cut. One reason NOT to mess with the fuel pump relay. Also,
messing with a safety-related system will probably void your car
insurance. Proceed with caution.

Stan

[Existential Angst[_2_]]

"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Jan 26, 5:49 pm, The Daring Dufas the-daring-du...@stinky-
finger.net wrote:
On 1/26/2013 3:43 PM, Existential Angst wrote:





"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Jan 26, 3:35 pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Thanks to Bob Haller -- and other input, of course -- I found a dert
simple
way to do this, with no ill effects to the car's pyooter or anything
else.

Rather than fool with the pressurized supply line (the shrader valve
bob
spoke of), I found the *return line* to the gas tank, and used that
line.
You can distinguish the two by squeezing either with a pliers -- the
supply
line (to the engine) will shut down the engine in very short order,
while
the return line back to the tank does not. In fact, squeezing the
return
line speeds the engine up slightly, which makes sense.

Now, in this scenario (running the engine), you wouldn't want to use
the
supply line to the engine, bec you could easily starve the engine of
fuel
in
this transfer process, whereas the return line to the tank does not
affect
the engine one whit.
However, if you are careful, you might have better results from the
pressurized supply line, being watchful of the engine idle. I opted for
the
"safer" return line.

So I cut the return line (the short section that is rubber), turned on
the
engine, and lo and behold, boucou fuel -- on the order of a quart in
about
20 secs. For the benefit of the Butt Bros George and JoeBlow, dats 3
qts
per min, 3/4 gal/min, or about 45 gals/hr -- not too bad. I hope the
Butt
Bros were able to follow that.....

Now, the other scenario is, if you are able to jump the fuel pump
(which
seems to operate off a relay), then you can tap into either line, cuz
you
don't need to turn the engine on. You may get a higher flow rate by
using
the supply line with the engine off. And some cars may start the fuel
pump
just with the ignition on, which would be nice for this.

So after filling a qt, I hose-clamped the tube together with a barbed
coupling, until I can put in a T + ball valve.
This hose is hose-clamped at either end to metal tubing anyway, no
fancy
fittings like on the pressureized supply.
If I can jump the fuel pump relay, I might fool around with the
pressurized
side, but the fittings on the end are pretty substantial, so the hose
may
not be amenable to simple hose-clamping -- altho both the supply and
return
hoses appear to be the same type of hose.

So this is a really elegant solution to transfering gas, at least from
the
truck to some other vessel. I'll figger out a way to nicely transfer
stored
gas to the truck, and it seems like a submersible automotive fuel pump
would
be a safe way to go, altho manual pumps are certainly viable.

If this works out, I may bump up my li'l doomsday storage depot to
mebbe
1,000 gals.....
The Butt Bros on Doomsday: Please, Sir, may I have more gas from your
return line?????
--
EA

all the vehcles I ever owned with pumps in the tank turn the pump on
when you turn the ignition key on, after all fuel must be at the
engine at start up....

get in your vehicle, turn key, you will hear noise for a moment till
the fuel is up. its a normal part of vehicle operation..... once the
pressure gets up the pump shuts off........ all automatically.

you could probably buy a fuel pump tester with the schrader valve and
cut the pressure gauge off, and use that hose for a fuel line
================================================== =

The pump was f'sure not turning on with the ignition, but mebbe that was
because the line was already pressurized from earlier startups.

I'll test this by just separating the hoses relieving any pressure, and
see
if the pump runs on ignition only.
I might have to cut the supply side to make this work, tho. But
hopefully
it will work on the return side as well -- will proly depend on
what/where
is supplying the back pressure.

I had to drop the huge plastic gas tank on my 89 Dodge van last year to
clean the filter sock on the intake of the fuel pump which is electric
and feeds the TBI system. I found that there was an extra line capped
off that was hooked to a tube going to the bottom of the fuel tank which
I guessed was a design feature to allow mechanics to pump all the fuel
out of the gas tank before removing the tank. It was easily reached from
under the van which led me to believe what I had guessed. The return
line is designed to swirl the fuel around the pickup of the fuel pump to
prevent debris from collecting in the low spot. It's an interesting
design. I figured that drain line would be a good place to install a
pump for getting fuel or hooking up an auxiliary tank with a transfer
pump like an aircraft has. ^_^

TDD

Dodge REALLY needed to put a access cover in the rear of the vehicles
to access the fuel pumps.. Dropping the tank would be
unnecessary........

Just as a note DONT RUN YOU GAS TANKS WITH LOW FUEL LEVELS.....

The gasoline also cools the pumps and lots of running with low fuel
levels leads to replacing the pump

This can easily cost 4 hundred to 5 hundred dollars
================================================== =====

Excellent info!!!! I tend to do that, and would have never thought of
this!
No more running below E for me.

Here is some info on the Frontier fuel pump:
http://treperformance.com/i-826-niss...1998-2004.html

I seem to be measuring a higher flow rate than 110 lpm (about 180?), but
will have to time this more accurately to be sure.
Note the psi, 43 psi -- high enough that I proly won't fool around with the
pressurized supply side. The return line is working fine, does not seem to
affect the engine at all when filling a container.
--
EA

[Existential Angst[_2_]]

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
On my 89 Blazer, I used a sawzall to change the pump from the top.

Low fuel caution is very important. Also, don't buy the high sulfur fuel
from Shell, which destroys fuel gage sending units.

How did you come by this info??
--
EA



Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"bob haller" wrote in message
...

Dodge REALLY needed to put a access cover in the rear of the vehicles
to access the fuel pumps.. Dropping the tank would be
unnecessary........

Just as a note DONT RUN YOU GAS TANKS WITH LOW FUEL LEVELS.....

The gasoline also cools the pumps and lots of running with low fuel
levels leads to replacing the pump

This can easily cost 4 hundred to 5 hundred dollars

[Existential Angst[_2_]]

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...
On 1/26/2013 3:43 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Jan 26, 3:35 pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Thanks to Bob Haller -- and other input, of course -- I found a dert
simple
way to do this, with no ill effects to the car's pyooter or anything
else.

Rather than fool with the pressurized supply line (the shrader valve bob
spoke of), I found the *return line* to the gas tank, and used that
line.
You can distinguish the two by squeezing either with a pliers -- the
supply
line (to the engine) will shut down the engine in very short order,
while
the return line back to the tank does not. In fact, squeezing the return
line speeds the engine up slightly, which makes sense.

Now, in this scenario (running the engine), you wouldn't want to use the
supply line to the engine, bec you could easily starve the engine of
fuel
in
this transfer process, whereas the return line to the tank does not
affect
the engine one whit.
However, if you are careful, you might have better results from the
pressurized supply line, being watchful of the engine idle. I opted for
the
"safer" return line.

So I cut the return line (the short section that is rubber), turned on
the
engine, and lo and behold, boucou fuel -- on the order of a quart in
about
20 secs. For the benefit of the Butt Bros George and JoeBlow, dats 3 qts
per min, 3/4 gal/min, or about 45 gals/hr -- not too bad. I hope the
Butt
Bros were able to follow that.....

Now, the other scenario is, if you are able to jump the fuel pump (which
seems to operate off a relay), then you can tap into either line, cuz
you
don't need to turn the engine on. You may get a higher flow rate by
using
the supply line with the engine off. And some cars may start the fuel
pump
just with the ignition on, which would be nice for this.

So after filling a qt, I hose-clamped the tube together with a barbed
coupling, until I can put in a T + ball valve.
This hose is hose-clamped at either end to metal tubing anyway, no fancy
fittings like on the pressureized supply.
If I can jump the fuel pump relay, I might fool around with the
pressurized
side, but the fittings on the end are pretty substantial, so the hose
may
not be amenable to simple hose-clamping -- altho both the supply and
return
hoses appear to be the same type of hose.

So this is a really elegant solution to transfering gas, at least from
the
truck to some other vessel. I'll figger out a way to nicely transfer
stored
gas to the truck, and it seems like a submersible automotive fuel pump
would
be a safe way to go, altho manual pumps are certainly viable.

If this works out, I may bump up my li'l doomsday storage depot to mebbe
1,000 gals.....
The Butt Bros on Doomsday: Please, Sir, may I have more gas from your
return line?????
--
EA

all the vehcles I ever owned with pumps in the tank turn the pump on
when you turn the ignition key on, after all fuel must be at the
engine at start up....

get in your vehicle, turn key, you will hear noise for a moment till
the fuel is up. its a normal part of vehicle operation..... once the
pressure gets up the pump shuts off........ all automatically.

you could probably buy a fuel pump tester with the schrader valve and
cut the pressure gauge off, and use that hose for a fuel line
================================================== =

The pump was f'sure not turning on with the ignition, but mebbe that was
because the line was already pressurized from earlier startups.

I'll test this by just separating the hoses relieving any pressure, and
see
if the pump runs on ignition only.
I might have to cut the supply side to make this work, tho. But
hopefully
it will work on the return side as well -- will proly depend on
what/where
is supplying the back pressure.


I had to drop the huge plastic gas tank on my 89 Dodge van last year to
clean the filter sock on the intake of the fuel pump which is electric
and feeds the TBI system. I found that there was an extra line capped
off that was hooked to a tube going to the bottom of the fuel tank which
I guessed was a design feature to allow mechanics to pump all the fuel out
of the gas tank before removing the tank. It was easily reached from
under the van which led me to believe what I had guessed. The return line
is designed to swirl the fuel around the pickup of the fuel pump to
prevent debris from collecting in the low spot. It's an interesting
design. I figured that drain line would be a good place to install a pump
for getting fuel or hooking up an auxiliary tank with a transfer pump like
an aircraft has. ^_^

I will check that out whenever I can get under the truck. Would be handy if
the Frontier has that, another alternative.
--
EA



TDD

[The Daring Dufas[_8_]]

On 1/27/2013 2:48 AM, Existential Angst wrote:
"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

********Trim The Fat********


I had to drop the huge plastic gas tank on my 89 Dodge van last year to
clean the filter sock on the intake of the fuel pump which is electric
and feeds the TBI system. I found that there was an extra line capped
off that was hooked to a tube going to the bottom of the fuel tank which
I guessed was a design feature to allow mechanics to pump all the fuel out
of the gas tank before removing the tank. It was easily reached from
under the van which led me to believe what I had guessed. The return line
is designed to swirl the fuel around the pickup of the fuel pump to
prevent debris from collecting in the low spot. It's an interesting
design. I figured that drain line would be a good place to install a pump
for getting fuel or hooking up an auxiliary tank with a transfer pump like
an aircraft has. ^_^

I will check that out whenever I can get under the truck. Would be handy if
the Frontier has that, another alternative.


I know a lot of trucks have an option for extra tanks and the factory
probably installs a fitting or connection in all of them that would
allow a dealer to easily install an auxiliary tank. ^_^

TDD

[dpb]

On 1/27/2013 2:43 AM, Existential Angst wrote:
....

Just as a note DONT RUN YOU GAS TANKS WITH LOW FUEL LEVELS.....

The gasoline also cools the pumps and lots of running with low fuel
levels leads to replacing the pump

....

Excellent info!!!! I tend to do that, and would have never thought of
this!
....

Excepting for it's nonsense folklore--they sit in a well or a can that
holds fuel around them...

--

[[email protected]]

On Sat, 26 Jan 2013 22:11:56 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

On my 89 Blazer, I used a sawzall to change the pump from the top.

Low fuel caution is very important. Also, don't buy the high sulfur fuel
from Shell, which destroys fuel gage sending units.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


You cannot buy the fuel that USED to damage SOME fuel guage senders
any more. It was an additive thing - not sulphur levels in particular.
That's been fixed for about 4 or 5 years.

[[email protected]]

On Sun, 27 Jan 2013 09:11:11 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 1/27/2013 2:43 AM, Existential Angst wrote:
...

Just as a note DONT RUN YOU GAS TANKS WITH LOW FUEL LEVELS.....

The gasoline also cools the pumps and lots of running with low fuel
levels leads to replacing the pump

...

Excellent info!!!! I tend to do that, and would have never thought of
this!
...

Excepting for it's nonsense folklore--they sit in a well or a can that
holds fuel around them...
The well helps on those cars that have it - and not nearly all do.
It holds fuel around the pump in straight and level driving - but with
a low tank, turns, accelleration and decelleration can allow the fuel
to slop out of the "can" - and the pump can possibly overheat. It can
also "suck air" which does not help the life of the pump any.( and can
cause the vehicle to stop and be terribly hard to restart). In MOST
cases, fuel flows THROUGH the pump motor, so unless it sucks too much
air it is still being cooled.

So on SOME CARS this IS an issue. Not "nonsemse folklore".
Running with blocked fuel filters can cause the same kind of problems
ON SOME CARS. My recommendation, as a mechanic, is consider anything
less than 1/8 tank as time to fill up, and change the fuel filter, if
so equipped, according to the maintenance schedule. Some more recent
cars do not have a replaceable or serviceable fuel filter - and on
"dead end" systems (no recirculating regulator / return line) it is
not an issue.

[Existential Angst[_2_]]

"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Jan 26, 5:49 pm, The Daring Dufas the-daring-du...@stinky-
finger.net wrote:
On 1/26/2013 3:43 PM, Existential Angst wrote:





"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Jan 26, 3:35 pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Thanks to Bob Haller -- and other input, of course -- I found a dert
simple
way to do this, with no ill effects to the car's pyooter or anything
else.

Rather than fool with the pressurized supply line (the shrader valve
bob
spoke of), I found the *return line* to the gas tank, and used that
line.
You can distinguish the two by squeezing either with a pliers -- the
supply
line (to the engine) will shut down the engine in very short order,
while
the return line back to the tank does not. In fact, squeezing the
return
line speeds the engine up slightly, which makes sense.

Now, in this scenario (running the engine), you wouldn't want to use
the
supply line to the engine, bec you could easily starve the engine of
fuel
in
this transfer process, whereas the return line to the tank does not
affect
the engine one whit.
However, if you are careful, you might have better results from the
pressurized supply line, being watchful of the engine idle. I opted for
the
"safer" return line.

So I cut the return line (the short section that is rubber), turned on
the
engine, and lo and behold, boucou fuel -- on the order of a quart in
about
20 secs. For the benefit of the Butt Bros George and JoeBlow, dats 3
qts
per min, 3/4 gal/min, or about 45 gals/hr -- not too bad. I hope the
Butt
Bros were able to follow that.....

Now, the other scenario is, if you are able to jump the fuel pump
(which
seems to operate off a relay), then you can tap into either line, cuz
you
don't need to turn the engine on. You may get a higher flow rate by
using
the supply line with the engine off. And some cars may start the fuel
pump
just with the ignition on, which would be nice for this.

So after filling a qt, I hose-clamped the tube together with a barbed
coupling, until I can put in a T + ball valve.
This hose is hose-clamped at either end to metal tubing anyway, no
fancy
fittings like on the pressureized supply.
If I can jump the fuel pump relay, I might fool around with the
pressurized
side, but the fittings on the end are pretty substantial, so the hose
may
not be amenable to simple hose-clamping -- altho both the supply and
return
hoses appear to be the same type of hose.

So this is a really elegant solution to transfering gas, at least from
the
truck to some other vessel. I'll figger out a way to nicely transfer
stored
gas to the truck, and it seems like a submersible automotive fuel pump
would
be a safe way to go, altho manual pumps are certainly viable.

If this works out, I may bump up my li'l doomsday storage depot to
mebbe
1,000 gals.....
The Butt Bros on Doomsday: Please, Sir, may I have more gas from your
return line?????
--
EA

all the vehcles I ever owned with pumps in the tank turn the pump on
when you turn the ignition key on, after all fuel must be at the
engine at start up....

get in your vehicle, turn key, you will hear noise for a moment till
the fuel is up. its a normal part of vehicle operation..... once the
pressure gets up the pump shuts off........ all automatically.

you could probably buy a fuel pump tester with the schrader valve and
cut the pressure gauge off, and use that hose for a fuel line
================================================== =

The pump was f'sure not turning on with the ignition, but mebbe that was
because the line was already pressurized from earlier startups.

I'll test this by just separating the hoses relieving any pressure, and
see
if the pump runs on ignition only.
I might have to cut the supply side to make this work, tho. But
hopefully
it will work on the return side as well -- will proly depend on
what/where
is supplying the back pressure.

I had to drop the huge plastic gas tank on my 89 Dodge van last year to
clean the filter sock on the intake of the fuel pump which is electric
and feeds the TBI system. I found that there was an extra line capped
off that was hooked to a tube going to the bottom of the fuel tank which
I guessed was a design feature to allow mechanics to pump all the fuel
out of the gas tank before removing the tank. It was easily reached from
under the van which led me to believe what I had guessed. The return
line is designed to swirl the fuel around the pickup of the fuel pump to
prevent debris from collecting in the low spot. It's an interesting
design. I figured that drain line would be a good place to install a
pump for getting fuel or hooking up an auxiliary tank with a transfer
pump like an aircraft has. ^_^

TDD

Dodge REALLY needed to put a access cover in the rear of the vehicles
to access the fuel pumps.. Dropping the tank would be
unnecessary........

Just as a note DONT RUN YOU GAS TANKS WITH LOW FUEL LEVELS.....

The gasoline also cools the pumps and lots of running with low fuel
levels leads to replacing the pump

This can easily cost 4 hundred to 5 hundred dollars
================================================== ============

Since I've cut the return fuel line (in the rubberized portion), would it be
a good idea to stick in an in-line fuel filter here?
I don't see one, am not sure if there is one at the gas tank -- which would
be pretty inaccessible. Nissan Frontier, '04, basic 6 cyl.
--
EA

[The Daring Dufas[_8_]]

On 1/27/2013 3:21 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Jan 26, 5:49 pm, The Daring Dufas the-daring-du...@stinky-
finger.net wrote:
On 1/26/2013 3:43 PM, Existential Angst wrote:





"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Jan 26, 3:35 pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Thanks to Bob Haller -- and other input, of course -- I found a dert
simple
way to do this, with no ill effects to the car's pyooter or anything
else.

Rather than fool with the pressurized supply line (the shrader valve
bob
spoke of), I found the *return line* to the gas tank, and used that
line.
You can distinguish the two by squeezing either with a pliers -- the
supply
line (to the engine) will shut down the engine in very short order,
while
the return line back to the tank does not. In fact, squeezing the
return
line speeds the engine up slightly, which makes sense.

Now, in this scenario (running the engine), you wouldn't want to use
the
supply line to the engine, bec you could easily starve the engine of
fuel
in
this transfer process, whereas the return line to the tank does not
affect
the engine one whit.
However, if you are careful, you might have better results from the
pressurized supply line, being watchful of the engine idle. I opted for
the
"safer" return line.

So I cut the return line (the short section that is rubber), turned on
the
engine, and lo and behold, boucou fuel -- on the order of a quart in
about
20 secs. For the benefit of the Butt Bros George and JoeBlow, dats 3
qts
per min, 3/4 gal/min, or about 45 gals/hr -- not too bad. I hope the
Butt
Bros were able to follow that.....

Now, the other scenario is, if you are able to jump the fuel pump
(which
seems to operate off a relay), then you can tap into either line, cuz
you
don't need to turn the engine on. You may get a higher flow rate by
using
the supply line with the engine off. And some cars may start the fuel
pump
just with the ignition on, which would be nice for this.

So after filling a qt, I hose-clamped the tube together with a barbed
coupling, until I can put in a T + ball valve.
This hose is hose-clamped at either end to metal tubing anyway, no
fancy
fittings like on the pressureized supply.
If I can jump the fuel pump relay, I might fool around with the
pressurized
side, but the fittings on the end are pretty substantial, so the hose
may
not be amenable to simple hose-clamping -- altho both the supply and
return
hoses appear to be the same type of hose.

So this is a really elegant solution to transfering gas, at least from
the
truck to some other vessel. I'll figger out a way to nicely transfer
stored
gas to the truck, and it seems like a submersible automotive fuel pump
would
be a safe way to go, altho manual pumps are certainly viable.

If this works out, I may bump up my li'l doomsday storage depot to
mebbe
1,000 gals.....
The Butt Bros on Doomsday: Please, Sir, may I have more gas from your
return line?????
--
EA

all the vehcles I ever owned with pumps in the tank turn the pump on
when you turn the ignition key on, after all fuel must be at the
engine at start up....

get in your vehicle, turn key, you will hear noise for a moment till
the fuel is up. its a normal part of vehicle operation..... once the
pressure gets up the pump shuts off........ all automatically.

you could probably buy a fuel pump tester with the schrader valve and
cut the pressure gauge off, and use that hose for a fuel line
================================================== =

The pump was f'sure not turning on with the ignition, but mebbe that was
because the line was already pressurized from earlier startups.

I'll test this by just separating the hoses relieving any pressure, and
see
if the pump runs on ignition only.
I might have to cut the supply side to make this work, tho. But
hopefully
it will work on the return side as well -- will proly depend on
what/where
is supplying the back pressure.

I had to drop the huge plastic gas tank on my 89 Dodge van last year to
clean the filter sock on the intake of the fuel pump which is electric
and feeds the TBI system. I found that there was an extra line capped
off that was hooked to a tube going to the bottom of the fuel tank which
I guessed was a design feature to allow mechanics to pump all the fuel
out of the gas tank before removing the tank. It was easily reached from
under the van which led me to believe what I had guessed. The return
line is designed to swirl the fuel around the pickup of the fuel pump to
prevent debris from collecting in the low spot. It's an interesting
design. I figured that drain line would be a good place to install a
pump for getting fuel or hooking up an auxiliary tank with a transfer
pump like an aircraft has. ^_^

TDD

Dodge REALLY needed to put a access cover in the rear of the vehicles
to access the fuel pumps.. Dropping the tank would be
unnecessary........

Just as a note DONT RUN YOU GAS TANKS WITH LOW FUEL LEVELS.....

The gasoline also cools the pumps and lots of running with low fuel
levels leads to replacing the pump

This can easily cost 4 hundred to 5 hundred dollars
================================================== ============

Since I've cut the return fuel line (in the rubberized portion), would it be
a good idea to stick in an in-line fuel filter here?
I don't see one, am not sure if there is one at the gas tank -- which would
be pretty inaccessible. Nissan Frontier, '04, basic 6 cyl.


The fuel filter on my old van is actually underneath attached to the
frame on the line coming from the in-tank pump. The pump itself has a
fine mesh sock at the pickup end to catch any large debris that may be
in the tank. I had to drop my tank and remove the pump assembly because
someone who previously worked on it had folded the sock over so that the
pump was picking up fuel through a one inch sized circle of screen which
easily stopped up with crud causing my van to quit running at odd times.
After removing the pump and unfolding the filter sock, I've had
no more mystery stalls. My friend LM helped me at his shop where we used
his fork lift and it was a such a pain in the tuckus that we never
want to go through that again. ^_^

TDD

[[email protected]]

On Sun, 27 Jan 2013 16:43:29 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 1/27/2013 3:21 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Jan 26, 5:49 pm, The Daring Dufas the-daring-du...@stinky-
finger.net wrote:
On 1/26/2013 3:43 PM, Existential Angst wrote:





"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Jan 26, 3:35 pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

Thanks to Bob Haller -- and other input, of course -- I found a dert
simple
way to do this, with no ill effects to the car's pyooter or anything
else.

Rather than fool with the pressurized supply line (the shrader valve
bob
spoke of), I found the *return line* to the gas tank, and used that
line.
You can distinguish the two by squeezing either with a pliers -- the
supply
line (to the engine) will shut down the engine in very short order,
while
the return line back to the tank does not. In fact, squeezing the
return
line speeds the engine up slightly, which makes sense.

Now, in this scenario (running the engine), you wouldn't want to use
the
supply line to the engine, bec you could easily starve the engine of
fuel
in
this transfer process, whereas the return line to the tank does not
affect
the engine one whit.
However, if you are careful, you might have better results from the
pressurized supply line, being watchful of the engine idle. I opted for
the
"safer" return line.

So I cut the return line (the short section that is rubber), turned on
the
engine, and lo and behold, boucou fuel -- on the order of a quart in
about
20 secs. For the benefit of the Butt Bros George and JoeBlow, dats 3
qts
per min, 3/4 gal/min, or about 45 gals/hr -- not too bad. I hope the
Butt
Bros were able to follow that.....

Now, the other scenario is, if you are able to jump the fuel pump
(which
seems to operate off a relay), then you can tap into either line, cuz
you
don't need to turn the engine on. You may get a higher flow rate by
using
the supply line with the engine off. And some cars may start the fuel
pump
just with the ignition on, which would be nice for this.

So after filling a qt, I hose-clamped the tube together with a barbed
coupling, until I can put in a T + ball valve.
This hose is hose-clamped at either end to metal tubing anyway, no
fancy
fittings like on the pressureized supply.
If I can jump the fuel pump relay, I might fool around with the
pressurized
side, but the fittings on the end are pretty substantial, so the hose
may
not be amenable to simple hose-clamping -- altho both the supply and
return
hoses appear to be the same type of hose.

So this is a really elegant solution to transfering gas, at least from
the
truck to some other vessel. I'll figger out a way to nicely transfer
stored
gas to the truck, and it seems like a submersible automotive fuel pump
would
be a safe way to go, altho manual pumps are certainly viable.

If this works out, I may bump up my li'l doomsday storage depot to
mebbe
1,000 gals.....
The Butt Bros on Doomsday: Please, Sir, may I have more gas from your
return line?????
--
EA

all the vehcles I ever owned with pumps in the tank turn the pump on
when you turn the ignition key on, after all fuel must be at the
engine at start up....

get in your vehicle, turn key, you will hear noise for a moment till
the fuel is up. its a normal part of vehicle operation..... once the
pressure gets up the pump shuts off........ all automatically.

you could probably buy a fuel pump tester with the schrader valve and
cut the pressure gauge off, and use that hose for a fuel line
================================================== =

The pump was f'sure not turning on with the ignition, but mebbe that was
because the line was already pressurized from earlier startups.

I'll test this by just separating the hoses relieving any pressure, and
see
if the pump runs on ignition only.
I might have to cut the supply side to make this work, tho. But
hopefully
it will work on the return side as well -- will proly depend on
what/where
is supplying the back pressure.

I had to drop the huge plastic gas tank on my 89 Dodge van last year to
clean the filter sock on the intake of the fuel pump which is electric
and feeds the TBI system. I found that there was an extra line capped
off that was hooked to a tube going to the bottom of the fuel tank which
I guessed was a design feature to allow mechanics to pump all the fuel
out of the gas tank before removing the tank. It was easily reached from
under the van which led me to believe what I had guessed. The return
line is designed to swirl the fuel around the pickup of the fuel pump to
prevent debris from collecting in the low spot. It's an interesting
design. I figured that drain line would be a good place to install a
pump for getting fuel or hooking up an auxiliary tank with a transfer
pump like an aircraft has. ^_^

TDD

Dodge REALLY needed to put a access cover in the rear of the vehicles
to access the fuel pumps.. Dropping the tank would be
unnecessary........

Just as a note DONT RUN YOU GAS TANKS WITH LOW FUEL LEVELS.....

The gasoline also cools the pumps and lots of running with low fuel
levels leads to replacing the pump

This can easily cost 4 hundred to 5 hundred dollars
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Since I've cut the return fuel line (in the rubberized portion), would it be
a good idea to stick in an in-line fuel filter here?
I don't see one, am not sure if there is one at the gas tank -- which would
be pretty inaccessible. Nissan Frontier, '04, basic 6 cyl.

It would act a bit like a bypass oil filter - not terribly effective
in this case.


The fuel filter on my old van is actually underneath attached to the
frame on the line coming from the in-tank pump. The pump itself has a
fine mesh sock at the pickup end to catch any large debris that may be
in the tank. I had to drop my tank and remove the pump assembly because
someone who previously worked on it had folded the sock over so that the
pump was picking up fuel through a one inch sized circle of screen which
easily stopped up with crud causing my van to quit running at odd times.
After removing the pump and unfolding the filter sock, I've had
no more mystery stalls. My friend LM helped me at his shop where we used
his fork lift and it was a such a pain in the tuckus that we never
want to go through that again. ^_^

TDD