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Default Keeping door latches from freezing

Have you ever found some sort of spray or grease that will keep stuff
from freezing? We got rain yesterday, and a deep freeze right
afterwards. Last night both push button door handles on my F-150 truck
were frozen. The push botton door latch on the house storm door and a
slide bolt on my toolshed door was also frozen.

Anyhow, have any of you ever found anything that will keep stuff like
that from freezing? I was wondering about silicone spray? Maybe
vaseline on the slide bolt, but that wont work on the truck? Any other
ideas?



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Default Keeping door latches from freezing

On Mon, 12 Nov 2012 15:42:24 -0600, wrote:

Any other
ideas?


Sure. Stop nym-shifting.
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Default Keeping door latches from freezing



wrote in message ...

Have you ever found some sort of spray or grease that will keep stuff
from freezing? We got rain yesterday, and a deep freeze right
afterwards. Last night both push button door handles on my F-150 truck
were frozen. The push botton door latch on the house storm door and a
slide bolt on my toolshed door was also frozen.

Anyhow, have any of you ever found anything that will keep stuff like
that from freezing? I was wondering about silicone spray? Maybe
vaseline on the slide bolt, but that wont work on the truck? Any other
ideas?
*****

Try this
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=stop+car+locks+from+freezing


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Default Keeping door latches from freezing

wrote:
Have you ever found some sort of spray or grease that will keep stuff
from freezing? We got rain yesterday, and a deep freeze right
afterwards. Last night both push button door handles on my F-150 truck
were frozen. The push botton door latch on the house storm door and a
slide bolt on my toolshed door was also frozen.

Anyhow, have any of you ever found anything that will keep stuff like
that from freezing? I was wondering about silicone spray? Maybe
vaseline on the slide bolt, but that wont work on the truck? Any other
ideas?


WD -40

Bic

Spray antifreeze, don't get on paint, I think.

My one boss used to free the lock mechanism with bic.

I use silicone on the rubber window runners.

Greg


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Default Keeping door latches from freezing

One trick someone suggested is:
Hold the key in a flame till it is quite hot, then stick it into the
frozen lock.

I used to own a car in a place where it got cold enough to try that.
I remember that it worked, but I can't remember whether it _always_ worked.

--
Wes Groleau

"What progress we are making! In the Middle Ages, they would have
burnt me; nowadays they are content with burning my books.€
€” Sigmund Freud, 1933
"He was never to know that even that was only an illusory progress,
that ten years later they would have burned his body as well.€
€” Ernest Jones, 1953

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What I do is just keep plenty of methanol (also called "methyl hydrate") on hand along with suitable applicators to get the alcohol into the space where it's needed. Methyl hydrate dissolves ice.

Most often, when a lock freezes, what's happened is that capillary pressure has drawn water into the tiny gaps around the tumblers and around the lock cylinder. When that water freezes, it prevents the tumbers from moving up and down and the cylinder from turning, so even if you can get your key in, you can't rotate the cylinder to unlock the car door.

By having some methanol available in a spray bottle or squeeze bottle designed to fit into a keyway, you can squirt methanol into the lock to dissolve the ice. Once you do that, the lock will work normally.

Methyl hydrate evaporates completely without leaving a residue.

PS: Never use an oil or a grease in a lock. Airborne dirt and dust will stick to the oil and grease, causing that lubricant to gum up the operation of the lock. It's best to use graphite powder in locks because airborne dirt and dust won't stick to graphite. The "dry graphite" aerosol sprays you buy at hardware stores for lubricating locks and light machinery are so named because they use a propellant that evaporates completely, leaving behind only the dry graphite powder.

Last edited by nestork : November 13th 12 at 06:50 AM
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Default Keeping door latches from freezing

On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 04:27:03 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

wrote:
Have you ever found some sort of spray or grease that will keep stuff
from freezing? We got rain yesterday, and a deep freeze right
afterwards. Last night both push button door handles on my F-150 truck
were frozen. The push botton door latch on the house storm door and a
slide bolt on my toolshed door was also frozen.

Anyhow, have any of you ever found anything that will keep stuff like
that from freezing? I was wondering about silicone spray? Maybe
vaseline on the slide bolt, but that wont work on the truck? Any other
ideas?


WD -40

Bic

Spray antifreeze, don't get on paint, I think.

My one boss used to free the lock mechanism with bic.

I use silicone on the rubber window runners.

Greg


WD-40 will evaporate real fast. I dont see that working for any length
of time.

What is BIC?

I've used silicone spray on the rubber gaskets around a car door. It
does help to keep the door from freeing to the gasket. I have not found
anything to work on the metal door buttons or latches yet. I plan to
get another can of silicone and try it as soon as I buy one, unless
someone on here has a better solution.

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Default Keeping door latches from freezing

I've not known of graphite to be a water displacer.

Is there article on the web that describes this? Send URL?

Christopher A. Young
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"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
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Hmm,
Graphite spray.


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Default Keeping door latches from freezing

wrote:

What is BIC?


A cigarette lighter




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Default Keeping door latches from freezing

On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 01:26:22 -0600, wrote:

On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 04:27:03 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

wrote:
Have you ever found some sort of spray or grease that will keep stuff
from freezing? We got rain yesterday, and a deep freeze right
afterwards. Last night both push button door handles on my F-150 truck
were frozen. The push botton door latch on the house storm door and a
slide bolt on my toolshed door was also frozen.

Anyhow, have any of you ever found anything that will keep stuff like
that from freezing? I was wondering about silicone spray? Maybe
vaseline on the slide bolt, but that wont work on the truck? Any other
ideas?


WD -40

Bic

Spray antifreeze, don't get on paint, I think.

My one boss used to free the lock mechanism with bic.

I use silicone on the rubber window runners.

Greg


WD-40 will evaporate real fast. I dont see that working for any length
of time.

What is BIC?

I've used silicone spray on the rubber gaskets around a car door. It
does help to keep the door from freeing to the gasket. I have not found
anything to work on the metal door buttons or latches yet. I plan to
get another can of silicone and try it as soon as I buy one, unless
someone on here has a better solution.


WD-40 protection is gone by the time you walk 20 feet.
Silicone spray works for door seals.
GM has some stuff that works pretty good, Super-Lube I think.
A white lithium or silicone is sometimes recommended for latches.
I've used it, and it's mediocre. The grease is difficult for
penetrating tight places, and the aerosol isn't much better than
WD-40. Maybe only 40-50 times better.
What I have used most successfully for every metal latch/handle/hinge,
car or house, is clean 10w40 motor oil, any brand, out of a dimple or
pump oil can with a small nozzle. Squirt, work the moving parts a few
times, wipe off excess.

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Default Keeping door latches from freezing

On Nov 13, 7:44*am, willshak wrote:
wrote the following on 11/13/2012 2:26 AM (ET):





On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 04:27:03 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:


wrote:
Have you ever found some sort of spray or grease that will keep stuff
from freezing? *We got rain yesterday, and a deep freeze right
afterwards. *Last night both push button door handles on my F-150 truck
were frozen. *The push botton door latch on the house storm door and a
slide bolt on my toolshed door was also frozen.


Anyhow, have any of you ever found anything that will keep stuff like
that from freezing? *I was wondering about silicone spray? *Maybe
vaseline on the slide bolt, but that wont work on the truck? *Any other
ideas?
WD -40


Bic


Spray antifreeze, don't get on paint, I think.


My one boss used to free the lock mechanism with bic.


I use silicone on the rubber window runners.


Greg


WD-40 will evaporate real fast. *I dont see that working for any length
of time.


What is BIC?


Cigarette lighter?



I've used silicone spray on the rubber gaskets around a car door. *It
does help to keep the door from freeing to the gasket. *I have not found
anything to work on the metal door buttons or latches yet. *I plan to
get another can of silicone and try it as soon as I buy one, unless
someone on here has a better solution.


--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


BIC is a manufacturer of a cigarette lighter. The suggestions was to
use a BIC to heat up the key, so that when inserted into the lock, the
heat would transfer to the lock causing it to thaw out. If you don't
have a cigarette lighter, you can also use a propane torch, a welding
torch or any other device that produces a controlable flame.
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Default Keeping door latches from freezing

On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 08:57:22 -0800 (PST), rlz wrote:


BIC is a manufacturer of a cigarette lighter. The suggestions was to
use a BIC to heat up the key, so that when inserted into the lock, the
heat would transfer to the lock causing it to thaw out. If you don't
have a cigarette lighter, you can also use a propane torch, a welding
torch or any other device that produces a controlable flame.


Ok, I knew about those lighters, but thought the guy was referring to
some spray or something like a lubricant. In my case, there is no key.
Just the push buttons on the truck door, nad slide bolt on the shed and
house screen door. Another thing to mention is that most of the time
when these things freeze, it's during severe weather, which means wind.
Goodluck trying to use a cig lighter in wind. A propane torch would
work better, but I'd not want to use that on the slide bolt which is
screwed to flammable wood. Even if the wood is not set on fire, the
paint will be ruined, and minutes later the latch will be frozen again.

Since I open my toolshed often in winter, and that slide bolt keeps
freezing, I'll just have to find some other way to latch the door. Till
then, I keep and old hammer next to the door (outside) to pound it loose
when it freezes. That's a pain in the ass to do when it's freezing
cold.

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I've seen people cut some plastic (from a milk jug?), or rubber from inner
tube. Staple or nail that over the bolt. That keeps the rain off the bolt.

Christopher A. Young
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wrote in message
...

Since I open my toolshed often in winter, and that slide bolt keeps
freezing, I'll just have to find some other way to latch the door. Till
then, I keep and old hammer next to the door (outside) to pound it loose
when it freezes. That's a pain in the ass to do when it's freezing
cold.



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On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 17:30:38 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've seen people cut some plastic (from a milk jug?), or rubber from inner
tube. Staple or nail that over the bolt. That keeps the rain off the bolt.

Christopher A. Young


Not a bad idea, in fact I like it.....


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Seems to work for old time country folk.

Christopher A. Young
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wrote in message
...
On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 17:30:38 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've seen people cut some plastic (from a milk jug?), or rubber from inner
tube. Staple or nail that over the bolt. That keeps the rain off the bolt.

Christopher A. Young


Not a bad idea, in fact I like it.....




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Default Keeping Siberian homes from freezing

The article says the only way to regulate the indoor temp is by opening
windows. To my way of thinking, if they covered parts of the radiators, it
would reduce the heat input into the room. The heat would go back to the
plant, and reduce the fuel consumption. Uncover as more heat is needed.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
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"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

Whenever I wonder about how to cope with problems due to very cold
weather, I always look at what the Russians in Siberia do to cope. ^_^

http://rbth.ru/articles/2012/01/04/s...now_14073.html

http://tinyurl.com/c7lebrh

TDD




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Default Keeping fat boy from freezing

Maybe that's the secret. I need a fur coat,a nd to blubber more?

(blubbering) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3y6gmt97J4g

Christopher A. Young
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"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

Whenever I wonder about how to cope with problems due to very cold
weather, I always look at what the Russians in Siberia do to cope. ^_^

http://rbth.ru/articles/2012/01/04/s...now_14073.html

http://tinyurl.com/c7lebrh

TDD


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Default Keeping door latches from freezing


wrote in message
...
Have you ever found some sort of spray or grease that will keep stuff
from freezing? We got rain yesterday, and a deep freeze right
afterwards. Last night both push button door handles on my F-150 truck
were frozen. The push botton door latch on the house storm door and a
slide bolt on my toolshed door was also frozen.

Anyhow, have any of you ever found anything that will keep stuff like
that from freezing? I was wondering about silicone spray? Maybe
vaseline on the slide bolt, but that wont work on the truck? Any other
ideas?

For key holes use a commercial prepared lubricant designed to keep water
out, and make sure the little flap over the key hole is working, it won't
freeze if you keep the water out.

For push buttons, use a white grease around the button and work it in, again
to keep water out so it won't freeze. Freezing rain will still build up over
the button (and the key hole) making it difficult to use, but there is
nothing you can do about it, other than keeping water from entering and
freezing inside the mechanism.


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HeyBub wrote:
wrote:

What is BIC?


A cigarette lighter

Or ball pen.
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Born In Covenant. (Mormon term.)

Christopher A. Young
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"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
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HeyBub wrote:
wrote:

What is BIC?


A cigarette lighter

Or ball pen.


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Default Keeping Siberian homes from freezing

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
The article says the only way to regulate the indoor temp is by opening
windows. To my way of thinking, if they covered parts of the radiators, it
would reduce the heat input into the room. The heat would go back to the
plant, and reduce the fuel consumption. Uncover as more heat is needed.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

Whenever I wonder about how to cope with problems due to very cold
weather, I always look at what the Russians in Siberia do to cope. ^_^

http://rbth.ru/articles/2012/01/04/s...now_14073.html

http://tinyurl.com/c7lebrh

TDD


Please explain the physics behind the heat returning to the plant if the
radiator is partially covered.

First tell us what kind of radiators they have and how you would cover them
to accomplish your goal.


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Physics: If the circulating water is in insulated tube like the delivery
system, the water retains the heat, rather than radiating it. If the water
is in uninsulated metal such as a radiator, the heat radiates. If the
radiator is insulated, the heat stays in the water, and the returning water
is hotter, and needs less heating.

I've not been to Russia, and don't know the details. The article also didn't
say. I'm guessing it's water circulation. Cast iron radiators. And, to "turn
down the heat" would be to partly cover the radiators with something like
fiberglass insulation, or a blanket.

Christopher A. Young
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"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
The article says the only way to regulate the indoor temp is by opening
windows. To my way of thinking, if they covered parts of the radiators, it
would reduce the heat input into the room. The heat would go back to the
plant, and reduce the fuel consumption. Uncover as more heat is needed.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

http://rbth.ru/articles/2012/01/04/s...now_14073.html

http://tinyurl.com/c7lebrh

TDD


Please explain the physics behind the heat returning to the plant if the
radiator is partially covered.

First tell us what kind of radiators they have and how you would cover them
to accomplish your goal.


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On Nov 15, 8:38*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Physics: If the circulating water is in insulated tube like the delivery
system, the water retains the heat, rather than radiating it. If the water
is in uninsulated metal *such as a radiator, the heat radiates. If the
radiator is insulated, the heat stays in the water, and the returning water
is hotter, and needs less heating.

I've not been to Russia, and don't know the details. The article also didn't
say. I'm guessing it's water circulation. Cast iron radiators. And, to "turn
down the heat" would be to partly cover the radiators with something like
fiberglass insulation, or a blanket.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

...





"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
The article says the only way to regulate the indoor temp is by opening
windows. To my way of thinking, if they covered parts of the radiators, it
would reduce the heat input into the room. The heat would go back to the
plant, and reduce the fuel consumption. Uncover as more heat is needed.


Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.


http://rbth.ru/articles/2012/01/04/s...now_14073.html


http://tinyurl.com/c7lebrh


TDD


Please explain the physics behind the heat returning to the plant if the
radiator is partially covered.

First tell us what kind of radiators they have and how you would cover them
to accomplish your goal.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


So let's say you and I live in the same building. Just my family and
yours for the sake of the discussion. My radiators are before yours in
the system. I decide to cover 1/2 of my radiators to keep the heat
down.

Wouldn't your apartment be hotter than before I covered my radiators?
Based on your explanation - which I am not necessarily doubting - the
water reaching your radiators would be hotter, therefore your
radiators would radiate more heat, which would mean that you would
have to cover more of your radiators than I did to maintain the same
heat, right?

Then the outside temperature goes down and I want more heat, so I
uncover 1/2 of the 1/2 I had covered. Now the water reaching your
radiators is cooler, so you need more heat for 2 reasons: 1, it's
colder outside and 2, the water reaching your radiator is cooler
because more of the heat is radiating into my apartment. Therefore you
have to uncover more of your radiator.

Now, extrapolate that out to 10 apartments or 50 or more. That seems
like a lot of constant covering and uncovering to maintain a
comfortable temperature in each apartment. Everytime someone makes a
change, the whole building is affected.

I think I'd stick with opening and closing windows which only impact
single apartments, or even single rooms within each apartment.
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On 11/15/2012 2:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Nov 15, 8:38 am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Physics: If the circulating water is in insulated tube like the delivery
system, the water retains the heat, rather than radiating it. If the water
is in uninsulated metal such as a radiator, the heat radiates. If the
radiator is insulated, the heat stays in the water, and the returning water
is hotter, and needs less heating.

I've not been to Russia, and don't know the details. The article also didn't
say. I'm guessing it's water circulation. Cast iron radiators. And, to "turn
down the heat" would be to partly cover the radiators with something like
fiberglass insulation, or a blanket.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

...





"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
The article says the only way to regulate the indoor temp is by opening
windows. To my way of thinking, if they covered parts of the radiators, it
would reduce the heat input into the room. The heat would go back to the
plant, and reduce the fuel consumption. Uncover as more heat is needed.


Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


http://rbth.ru/articles/2012/01/04/s...now_14073.html


http://tinyurl.com/c7lebrh


TDD


Please explain the physics behind the heat returning to the plant if the
radiator is partially covered.

First tell us what kind of radiators they have and how you would cover them
to accomplish your goal.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


So let's say you and I live in the same building. Just my family and
yours for the sake of the discussion. My radiators are before yours in
the system. I decide to cover 1/2 of my radiators to keep the heat
down.

Wouldn't your apartment be hotter than before I covered my radiators?
Based on your explanation - which I am not necessarily doubting - the
water reaching your radiators would be hotter, therefore your
radiators would radiate more heat, which would mean that you would
have to cover more of your radiators than I did to maintain the same
heat, right?

Then the outside temperature goes down and I want more heat, so I
uncover 1/2 of the 1/2 I had covered. Now the water reaching your
radiators is cooler, so you need more heat for 2 reasons: 1, it's
colder outside and 2, the water reaching your radiator is cooler
because more of the heat is radiating into my apartment. Therefore you
have to uncover more of your radiator.

Now, extrapolate that out to 10 apartments or 50 or more. That seems
like a lot of constant covering and uncovering to maintain a
comfortable temperature in each apartment. Everytime someone makes a
change, the whole building is affected.

I think I'd stick with opening and closing windows which only impact
single apartments, or even single rooms within each apartment.


multiple loops. they're not all on the same loop. your example doesn't
hold up.


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Default Keeping Siberian homes from freezing

Lets say you're in apartment building with a lot of units. You're in the
first apartment. You want the room colder, so you open the window. The room
now has colder air, so there is greater delta T from the room to the
radiator. The radiator loses heat faster, and cools to a lower temp (lower
room temp) so the next guy gets colder water. And, the water going back to
the heating plant is colder, also. So they use more fuel. See? Opening
windows does at least two bad things. One of which is to cool the water that
the later apartments need.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
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..

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...


So let's say you and I live in the same building. Just my family and
yours for the sake of the discussion. My radiators are before yours in
the system. I decide to cover 1/2 of my radiators to keep the heat
down.

Wouldn't your apartment be hotter than before I covered my radiators?
Based on your explanation - which I am not necessarily doubting - the
water reaching your radiators would be hotter, therefore your
radiators would radiate more heat, which would mean that you would
have to cover more of your radiators than I did to maintain the same
heat, right?

Then the outside temperature goes down and I want more heat, so I
uncover 1/2 of the 1/2 I had covered. Now the water reaching your
radiators is cooler, so you need more heat for 2 reasons: 1, it's
colder outside and 2, the water reaching your radiator is cooler
because more of the heat is radiating into my apartment. Therefore you
have to uncover more of your radiator.

Now, extrapolate that out to 10 apartments or 50 or more. That seems
like a lot of constant covering and uncovering to maintain a
comfortable temperature in each apartment. Everytime someone makes a
change, the whole building is affected.

I think I'd stick with opening and closing windows which only impact
single apartments, or even single rooms within each apartment.


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Opening windows requires more fuel at the plant, regardless of the number of
loops.

Christopher A. Young
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..

"chaniarts"
wrote in message ...
On 11/15/2012 2:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:


I think I'd stick with opening and closing windows which only impact
single apartments, or even single rooms within each apartment.


multiple loops. they're not all on the same loop. your example doesn't
hold up.





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Opening windows requires more fuel at the plant, regardless of the number of
loops.

Christopher A. Young
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"chaniarts"
wrote in message ...
On 11/15/2012 2:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:


I think I'd stick with opening and closing windows which only impact
single apartments, or even single rooms within each apartment.


multiple loops. they're not all on the same loop. your example doesn't
hold up.



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Default Keeping Siberian homes from freezing

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...

So let's say you and I live in the same building. Just my family and
yours for the sake of the discussion. My radiators are before yours in
the system. I decide to cover 1/2 of my radiators to keep the heat
down.

Wouldn't your apartment be hotter than before I covered my radiators?

CY:Yep.

Based on your explanation - which I am not necessarily doubting - the
water reaching your radiators would be hotter, therefore your
radiators would radiate more heat, which would mean that you would
have to cover more of your radiators than I did to maintain the same
heat, right?

CY: Yep.

Then the outside temperature goes down and I want more heat, so I
uncover 1/2 of the 1/2 I had covered. Now the water reaching your
radiators is cooler, so you need more heat for 2 reasons: 1, it's
colder outside and 2, the water reaching your radiator is cooler
because more of the heat is radiating into my apartment. Therefore you
have to uncover more of your radiator.

CY: True.

Now, extrapolate that out to 10 apartments or 50 or more. That seems
like a lot of constant covering and uncovering to maintain a
comfortable temperature in each apartment. Everytime someone makes a
change, the whole building is affected.

CY: Yes, very possible.

I think I'd stick with opening and closing windows which only impact
single apartments, or even single rooms within each apartment.

CY: If covering radiators affects other apartments, do you think that super
cooling the rads by exposing them to outdoor air will affect other
apartments? I enjoy this technical discussion, and hope we can bounce the
ideas back and forth. Pong! Coming your way....



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Default Keeping Siberian homes from freezing

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

Lets say you're in apartment building with a lot of units. You're in
the first apartment. You want the room colder, so you open the
window. The room now has colder air, so there is greater delta T from
the room to the radiator. The radiator loses heat faster, and cools to
a lower temp (lower room temp) so the next guy gets colder water. And,
the water going back to the heating plant is colder, also. So they use
more fuel. See? Opening windows does at least two bad things. One of
which is to cool the water that the later apartments need.


This assumes there is 1 continous loop. Highly unlikely, don't you
think? Probably the loops are for individual units, from a main central
loop. So your return (colder) water does NOT have to heat someone else's
unit. But the same reasoning for covering the radiator rather than
opening a window still holds - total heat loss is less, and so operation
is more economical.

--
Best regards
Han
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Default Keeping Siberian homes from freezing

Han wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

Lets say you're in apartment building with a lot of units. You're in
the first apartment. You want the room colder, so you open the
window. The room now has colder air, so there is greater delta T from
the room to the radiator. The radiator loses heat faster, and cools to
a lower temp (lower room temp) so the next guy gets colder water. And,
the water going back to the heating plant is colder, also. So they use
more fuel. See? Opening windows does at least two bad things. One of
which is to cool the water that the later apartments need.


This assumes there is 1 continous loop. Highly unlikely, don't you
think? Probably the loops are for individual units, from a main central
loop. So your return (colder) water does NOT have to heat someone else's
unit. But the same reasoning for covering the radiator rather than
opening a window still holds - total heat loss is less, and so operation
is more economical.



So what are they missing in Siberia? Why are they still opening windows and
not issuing radiator covers to all comrades? Maybe someone in the politburo
should subscribe to usenet and start reading a.h.r.
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Default Keeping Siberian homes from freezing

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:

Han wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

Lets say you're in apartment building with a lot of units. You're in
the first apartment. You want the room colder, so you open the
window. The room now has colder air, so there is greater delta T
from the room to the radiator. The radiator loses heat faster, and
cools to a lower temp (lower room temp) so the next guy gets colder
water. And, the water going back to the heating plant is colder,
also. So they use more fuel. See? Opening windows does at least two
bad things. One of which is to cool the water that the later
apartments need.


This assumes there is 1 continous loop. Highly unlikely, don't you
think? Probably the loops are for individual units, from a main
central loop. So your return (colder) water does NOT have to heat
someone else's unit. But the same reasoning for covering the
radiator rather than opening a window still holds - total heat loss
is less, and so operation is more economical.



So what are they missing in Siberia? Why are they still opening
windows and not issuing radiator covers to all comrades? Maybe someone
in the politburo should subscribe to usenet and start reading a.h.r.


I hope you aren't literally asking me to asnwer that question grin.
Perhaps it is because such a steam(?)-powered system is very efficient
and cheap to operate (there are systems like that in other places too,
such as parts of NY City). Perhaps it is there, and the fuel is rather
cheap (Russia is an oil- and gas-exporting country, big time).

--
Best regards
Han
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Default Keeping Siberian homes from freezing


Now, extrapolate that out to 10 apartments or 50 or more. That seems
like a lot of constant covering and uncovering to maintain a
comfortable temperature in each apartment. Everytime someone makes a
change, the whole building is affected.

I think I'd stick with opening and closing windows which only impact
single apartments, or even single rooms within each apartment.


multiple loops. they're not all on the same loop. your example doesn't
hold up.


Even if they were, the example assumes (1) the tenants care about other
tenants and (2) they have half a clue about the effect of their actions.

--
Wes Groleau

€œMissing a train is only painful if you run after it!€
€” Nassim Nicholas Taleb

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Simple way to prevent latches from freezing is to apply Petroleum jelly or Vaseline.
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Default Keeping Siberian homes from freezing

Wes Groleau wrote:
Now, extrapolate that out to 10 apartments or 50 or more. That seems
like a lot of constant covering and uncovering to maintain a
comfortable temperature in each apartment. Everytime someone makes a
change, the whole building is affected.

I think I'd stick with opening and closing windows which only impact
single apartments, or even single rooms within each apartment.


multiple loops. they're not all on the same loop. your example doesn't
hold up.


Even if they were, the example assumes (1) the tenants care about other
tenants and (2) they have half a clue about the effect of their actions.


The example makes no such assumption. It discusses nothing more than cause
and effect.
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