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New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start



 
 
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  #31  
Old June 3rd 12, 01:32 AM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 8,604
Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 15:37:46 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote:

On 6/2/2012 1:34 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 08:32:55 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 06/02/2012 07:31 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 06:59:33 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:



I bought a USED Homelite chainsaw (a cheap, Chinese-made, underpowered
big-box version) last year to cut up a stump. It was used by the
previous owner to the point where the paint was worn off of the bar.


If you are a professional and need professional-grade gear, then yeah,
you need to step up, but my cheap, used cheap-Chinese Homelite product
is working just fine for my homeowner needs.

Jon

Want to buy my Homelite? It had less than ten hours and was worn out.
You certainly got lucky, but that is a rare exception. Ask at any
small engine service shop.

Already got one, but thanks.

One thing you have to realize is that they typical Homelite purchaser is
not going to be an experienced two-cycle engine user. They will be less
likely to properly mix the gas, they might keep it too long (ie, not use
the mix within a month), they will be more likely to leave gas sitting
in the tank, and they will be more likely to forego the routine
maintenance (air filter and spark plug) that any two-cycle motor requires.


Use gas within a month? Who does that? ...particularly 2-cycle mix (I was
lucky to use a gallon in a year, so bought a 4-cycle trimmer).

Yes, they are cheaply built, but how much saw can you reasonably expect
for $80? Despite that, I've had good luck with mine using it for
intermittent household-duty work, paying attention to proper maintenance.

Jon


Hello? the four cycle trimmers (at least the STIHLS) which is the only
brand i would consider. Still use mix fuel.


Hello? Not everyone is a Stihl shill. Mine doesn't use mix, rather has an
oil pan. You really gotta get out more.

Ads
  #32  
Old June 3rd 12, 03:06 AM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,609
Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 15:36:50 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote:


that guy that loves his probably doesn't have near 10 hours on it.
LMAO! Try 12 or 14 a DAY 100 or so days a year.... think STIHL.


You might do it differently if you run a landscape service.
But I've been using my 90 buck Craftsman for about 8 years.
Probably put no more than a couple hours run time on it each season.
Maybe less than 2 hours. That's all I need.
Never drained the tank. Never pulled the plug.
Always started with a few yanks after sitting all winter, always with
old gas in it. In fact, I bought the gas I that was in it at the
start of this season about 4 years ago.
Wouldn't start this year, so I drained the tank and turned it upside
down for a couple days. Bought new gas for the mix, primed it and it
started with a few yanks.
Kind of disappointed me. Was looking to get a new one, with 2
strings.
Anyway, it's always had touchy choking. If not fully choked and at
half-throttle, it won't fire. You'd think it was purely dead.
Then as soon as it fires, you have open the choke quickly, or it dies.
And I mean quick. Like 2 seconds quick.
Then it runs like a banshee.
So tricky choking causes some engines to seem dead.
I've seen the same on car/truck carbed engines, but on 2 strokes it
shows up much more.
Always check the choke first, then move to spark.

--
Vic



  #33  
Old June 3rd 12, 04:28 AM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 198
Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

On Jun 2, 1:01*pm, "
wrote:
On Jun 2, 12:50*pm, Greg wrote:





On 6/2/2012 11:52 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:


The idle adjustment screw is easily accessible and quickly fixes that
problem; if you had read the fine manual you would discovered this for
yourself. They are purposely set too low to keep the EPA happy, as well
as to make DAMN SURE that there is ZERO CHANCE of the clutch engaging
when someone sets the saw down next to the baby when they go in the
house for another crackhit (you can thank the lawyers for that one).


A harder adjustment is increasing the mixture screws to be richer,
because they have a limiter on each screw which allows them to only be
turned leaner (again, thanks to the EPA for that one). This can cause a
problem if the saw is running too lean at WOT, and will burn it up in
short order.


As in most limiter screws, it is easily bypassed if you are somewhat
handy (I removed the limiters on mine).


I have to agree with the other posters, Stihl is the best!


You can make excuses and blame lawyers and EPA all you want but I've
never had to do any of those things to get my Stihl 2-strokes to run.


FWIW, I do use Stihl MotoMix exclusively so that I don't have to worry
about ethanol fuel decay and resultant damage. I just keep everything
fueled up with MotoMix and ready to go. They always start easily and run
great.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


On a related question, I have a 2 cycle weed whacker
that would not start. *I sprayed carb cleaner in it and
now it starts just fine, will run with the choke off, but
as soon as you give it about 50%+ throttle it starts
to stall. *And at that point even quickly backing off on
the throttle, it will not recover, it just dies out.

While cleaning and looking at it I noticed one thing
that doesn's seem right. *When I pump the bulb I
see solid gas going into the carb, but some bubbles
are there in the return line. *Even pumping many
times makes no difference.

So, my current theory is that there is a leak at the
carb that is allowing air to get sucked in? *And
that it isn't a problem at lower power but causes
fuel starvation at higher power? * Next thing I'm
going to do is see what the return fuel line does
when it running and the problem occurs. *Any
other thoughts?


Bulb could have a small crack that you can't see and it don't leak
because you have your finger over the crack, or fuel line has crack,
or you need to put gas in it.

I woud replace the fuel line. This is the most common problem. Then
replace the primer bulb ( less than $5). One or the other should solve
your problem.

Hank
  #34  
Old June 3rd 12, 06:00 AM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,738
Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

On 6/2/2012 6:32 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 15:37:46 -0500, Steve
wrote:

On 6/2/2012 1:34 PM,
zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 08:32:55 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 06/02/2012 07:31 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 06:59:33 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:



I bought a USED Homelite chainsaw (a cheap, Chinese-made, underpowered
big-box version) last year to cut up a stump. It was used by the
previous owner to the point where the paint was worn off of the bar.


If you are a professional and need professional-grade gear, then yeah,
you need to step up, but my cheap, used cheap-Chinese Homelite product
is working just fine for my homeowner needs.

Jon

Want to buy my Homelite? It had less than ten hours and was worn out.
You certainly got lucky, but that is a rare exception. Ask at any
small engine service shop.

Already got one, but thanks.

One thing you have to realize is that they typical Homelite purchaser is
not going to be an experienced two-cycle engine user. They will be less
likely to properly mix the gas, they might keep it too long (ie, not use
the mix within a month), they will be more likely to leave gas sitting
in the tank, and they will be more likely to forego the routine
maintenance (air filter and spark plug) that any two-cycle motor requires.

Use gas within a month? Who does that? ...particularly 2-cycle mix (I was
lucky to use a gallon in a year, so bought a 4-cycle trimmer).

Yes, they are cheaply built, but how much saw can you reasonably expect
for $80? Despite that, I've had good luck with mine using it for
intermittent household-duty work, paying attention to proper maintenance.

Jon


Hello? the four cycle trimmers (at least the STIHLS) which is the only
brand i would consider. Still use mix fuel.


Hello? Not everyone is a Stihl shill. Mine doesn't use mix, rather has an
oil pan. You really gotta get out more.


are we talking string trimmer? With a crank case full of oil? What
brand is that? It must be heavy. How's it work upside down? I really
don't need to get out more. I have stihl products, no need to go out
anymore at all.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
  #35  
Old June 3rd 12, 06:21 AM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 8,604
Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 23:00:16 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote:

On 6/2/2012 6:32 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 15:37:46 -0500, Steve
wrote:

On 6/2/2012 1:34 PM,
zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 08:32:55 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 06/02/2012 07:31 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 06:59:33 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:



I bought a USED Homelite chainsaw (a cheap, Chinese-made, underpowered
big-box version) last year to cut up a stump. It was used by the
previous owner to the point where the paint was worn off of the bar.


If you are a professional and need professional-grade gear, then yeah,
you need to step up, but my cheap, used cheap-Chinese Homelite product
is working just fine for my homeowner needs.

Jon

Want to buy my Homelite? It had less than ten hours and was worn out.
You certainly got lucky, but that is a rare exception. Ask at any
small engine service shop.

Already got one, but thanks.

One thing you have to realize is that they typical Homelite purchaser is
not going to be an experienced two-cycle engine user. They will be less
likely to properly mix the gas, they might keep it too long (ie, not use
the mix within a month), they will be more likely to leave gas sitting
in the tank, and they will be more likely to forego the routine
maintenance (air filter and spark plug) that any two-cycle motor requires.

Use gas within a month? Who does that? ...particularly 2-cycle mix (I was
lucky to use a gallon in a year, so bought a 4-cycle trimmer).

Yes, they are cheaply built, but how much saw can you reasonably expect
for $80? Despite that, I've had good luck with mine using it for
intermittent household-duty work, paying attention to proper maintenance.

Jon

Hello? the four cycle trimmers (at least the STIHLS) which is the only
brand i would consider. Still use mix fuel.


Hello? Not everyone is a Stihl shill. Mine doesn't use mix, rather has an
oil pan. You really gotta get out more.


are we talking string trimmer?


At least some of us are, though it's hard sometimes to know exactly what
you're talking about, other than shilling for Stihl.

With a crank case full of oil?


Certainly.

What brand is that?


Mine is a Troy Bilt, but there are others.

It must be heavy.


Wrong.

How's it work upside down?


Quite well. Well, it's right side up, for the trimmer.

I really don't need to get out more.


Wrong, obviously.

I have stihl products, no need to go out anymore at all.


No doubt about it, you're just a Stihl shill. Fool.

  #36  
Old June 3rd 12, 02:21 PM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,405
Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

On Jun 2, 10:28*pm, Hank wrote:
On Jun 2, 1:01*pm, "
wrote:





On Jun 2, 12:50*pm, Greg wrote:


On 6/2/2012 11:52 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:


The idle adjustment screw is easily accessible and quickly fixes that
problem; if you had read the fine manual you would discovered this for
yourself. They are purposely set too low to keep the EPA happy, as well
as to make DAMN SURE that there is ZERO CHANCE of the clutch engaging
when someone sets the saw down next to the baby when they go in the
house for another crackhit (you can thank the lawyers for that one)..


A harder adjustment is increasing the mixture screws to be richer,
because they have a limiter on each screw which allows them to only be
turned leaner (again, thanks to the EPA for that one). This can cause a
problem if the saw is running too lean at WOT, and will burn it up in
short order.


As in most limiter screws, it is easily bypassed if you are somewhat
handy (I removed the limiters on mine).


I have to agree with the other posters, Stihl is the best!


You can make excuses and blame lawyers and EPA all you want but I've
never had to do any of those things to get my Stihl 2-strokes to run.


FWIW, I do use Stihl MotoMix exclusively so that I don't have to worry
about ethanol fuel decay and resultant damage. I just keep everything
fueled up with MotoMix and ready to go. They always start easily and run
great.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


On a related question, I have a 2 cycle weed whacker
that would not start. *I sprayed carb cleaner in it and
now it starts just fine, will run with the choke off, but
as soon as you give it about 50%+ throttle it starts
to stall. *And at that point even quickly backing off on
the throttle, it will not recover, it just dies out.


While cleaning and looking at it I noticed one thing
that doesn's seem right. *When I pump the bulb I
see solid gas going into the carb, but some bubbles
are there in the return line. *Even pumping many
times makes no difference.


So, my current theory is that there is a leak at the
carb that is allowing air to get sucked in? *And
that it isn't a problem at lower power but causes
fuel starvation at higher power? * Next thing I'm
going to do is see what the return fuel line does
when it running and the problem occurs. *Any
other thoughts?


Bulb could have a small crack that you can't see and it don't leak
because you have your finger over the crack, or fuel line has crack,
or you need to put gas in it.


If it were the bulb, there would be air in the sending line as well
as the return line. Also, I've never seen a bulb with an air leak
where fuel was not leaking out when it's pressed.




I woud replace the fuel line. This is the most common problem. Then
replace the primer bulb ( less than $5). One or the other should solve
your problem.

Hank- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


It might be a leak right where the return line joins the carb. But
that's
where it would have to be because the bubbles are showing up right
where it leaves the carb. Again, no bubbles going in the carb, only
bubbles coming out.
  #37  
Old June 3rd 12, 04:53 PM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 198
Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

On Jun 3, 8:21*am, "
wrote:
On Jun 2, 10:28*pm, Hank wrote:





On Jun 2, 1:01*pm, "
wrote:


On Jun 2, 12:50*pm, Greg wrote:


On 6/2/2012 11:52 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:


The idle adjustment screw is easily accessible and quickly fixes that
problem; if you had read the fine manual you would discovered this for
yourself. They are purposely set too low to keep the EPA happy, as well
as to make DAMN SURE that there is ZERO CHANCE of the clutch engaging
when someone sets the saw down next to the baby when they go in the
house for another crackhit (you can thank the lawyers for that one).


A harder adjustment is increasing the mixture screws to be richer,
because they have a limiter on each screw which allows them to only be
turned leaner (again, thanks to the EPA for that one). This can cause a
problem if the saw is running too lean at WOT, and will burn it up in
short order.


As in most limiter screws, it is easily bypassed if you are somewhat
handy (I removed the limiters on mine).


I have to agree with the other posters, Stihl is the best!


You can make excuses and blame lawyers and EPA all you want but I've
never had to do any of those things to get my Stihl 2-strokes to run.

  #38  
Old June 4th 12, 02:12 PM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,405
Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

On Jun 3, 10:53*am, Hank wrote:
On Jun 3, 8:21*am, "
wrote:





On Jun 2, 10:28*pm, Hank wrote:


On Jun 2, 1:01*pm, "
wrote:


On Jun 2, 12:50*pm, Greg wrote:


On 6/2/2012 11:52 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:


The idle adjustment screw is easily accessible and quickly fixes that
problem; if you had read the fine manual you would discovered this for
yourself. They are purposely set too low to keep the EPA happy, as well
as to make DAMN SURE that there is ZERO CHANCE of the clutch engaging
when someone sets the saw down next to the baby when they go in the
house for another crackhit (you can thank the lawyers for that one).


A harder adjustment is increasing the mixture screws to be richer,
because they have a limiter on each screw which allows them to only be
turned leaner (again, thanks to the EPA for that one). This can cause a
problem if the saw is running too lean at WOT, and will burn it up in
short order.


As in most limiter screws, it is easily bypassed if you are somewhat
handy (I removed the limiters on mine).


I have to agree with the other posters, Stihl is the best!


You can make excuses and blame lawyers and EPA all you want but I've
never had to do any of those things to get my Stihl 2-strokes to run.


FWIW, I do use Stihl MotoMix exclusively so that I don't have to worry
about ethanol fuel decay and resultant damage. I just keep everything
fueled up with MotoMix and ready to go. They always start easily and run
great.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


On a related question, I have a 2 cycle weed whacker
that would not start. *I sprayed carb cleaner in it and
now it starts just fine, will run with the choke off, but
as soon as you give it about 50%+ throttle it starts
to stall. *And at that point even quickly backing off on
the throttle, it will not recover, it just dies out.


While cleaning and looking at it I noticed one thing
that doesn's seem right. *When I pump the bulb I
see solid gas going into the carb, but some bubbles
are there in the return line. *Even pumping many
times makes no difference.


So, my current theory is that there is a leak at the
carb that is allowing air to get sucked in? *And
that it isn't a problem at lower power but causes
fuel starvation at higher power? * Next thing I'm
going to do is see what the return fuel line does
when it running and the problem occurs. *Any
other thoughts?


Bulb could have a small crack that you can't see and it don't leak
because you have your finger over the crack, or fuel line has crack,
or you need to put gas in it.


If it were the bulb, there would be air in the sending line as well
as the return line. *Also, I've never seen a bulb with an air leak
where fuel was not leaking out when it's pressed.


I woud replace the fuel line. This is the most common problem. Then
replace the primer bulb ( less than $5). One or the other should solve
your problem.


Hank- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


It might be a leak right where the return line joins the carb. *But
that's
where it would have to be because the bubbles are showing up right
where it leaves the carb. *Again, no bubbles going in the carb, only
bubbles coming out.


Obviously your experiences are different than mine. If I were to
repair his trimmer, the first thing I would do, with the symptoms he
gave, is to replace all fuel lines and primer bulb and spark plug.


I was not telling him what to do. I was asking about what to do
with MY problem, which is different.




This takes care of 90% of the problems. If he is too cheap to fork out
the $5-$10 to replace these parts, he is just wasting his time trying
to find out which one it is.

I have repaired unknown numbers of trimmers and 2 stroke equipment for
30+ years in a shop.

Hank- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Then I would think that you would agree that air bubbles in the return
line
from the carb, with no air bubbles in the supply line
from the tank and priming bulb can't be due to a leaking bulb, or a
leak in the fuel line from the tank to the bulb, right? If there is a
leak,
it would seem to me that it would have to be right where the supply
fuel line connects to the carb or else in the carb itself. And if
it's
leaking at the connection to the carb, wouldn't there typically be
some fuel leaking visibly when the priming bulb is pushed? It's
forcing fuel into the carb, so if there was a leak, wouldn't some
fuel come out under pressure?

One basic question is should there ever be air bubbles in the fuel
return
line after priming it say 10 times?
  #39  
Old June 4th 12, 07:42 PM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 289
Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

Don't think so. This is almost brand new.




On Sat, 2 Jun 2012 19:28:08 -0700 (PDT), Hank
wrote:

On Jun 2, 1:01*pm, "
wrote:
On Jun 2, 12:50*pm, Greg wrote:





On 6/2/2012 11:52 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:


The idle adjustment screw is easily accessible and quickly fixes that
problem; if you had read the fine manual you would discovered this for
yourself. They are purposely set too low to keep the EPA happy, as well
as to make DAMN SURE that there is ZERO CHANCE of the clutch engaging
when someone sets the saw down next to the baby when they go in the
house for another crackhit (you can thank the lawyers for that one).


A harder adjustment is increasing the mixture screws to be richer,
because they have a limiter on each screw which allows them to only be
turned leaner (again, thanks to the EPA for that one). This can cause a
problem if the saw is running too lean at WOT, and will burn it up in
short order.


As in most limiter screws, it is easily bypassed if you are somewhat
handy (I removed the limiters on mine).


I have to agree with the other posters, Stihl is the best!


You can make excuses and blame lawyers and EPA all you want but I've
never had to do any of those things to get my Stihl 2-strokes to run.


FWIW, I do use Stihl MotoMix exclusively so that I don't have to worry
about ethanol fuel decay and resultant damage. I just keep everything
fueled up with MotoMix and ready to go. They always start easily and run
great.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


On a related question, I have a 2 cycle weed whacker
that would not start. *I sprayed carb cleaner in it and
now it starts just fine, will run with the choke off, but
as soon as you give it about 50%+ throttle it starts
to stall. *And at that point even quickly backing off on
the throttle, it will not recover, it just dies out.

While cleaning and looking at it I noticed one thing
that doesn's seem right. *When I pump the bulb I
see solid gas going into the carb, but some bubbles
are there in the return line. *Even pumping many
times makes no difference.

So, my current theory is that there is a leak at the
carb that is allowing air to get sucked in? *And
that it isn't a problem at lower power but causes
fuel starvation at higher power? * Next thing I'm
going to do is see what the return fuel line does
when it running and the problem occurs. *Any
other thoughts?


Bulb could have a small crack that you can't see and it don't leak
because you have your finger over the crack, or fuel line has crack,
or you need to put gas in it.

I woud replace the fuel line. This is the most common problem. Then
replace the primer bulb ( less than $5). One or the other should solve
your problem.

Hank


  #40  
Old June 4th 12, 09:11 PM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 289
Default New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

Thank you all for your kind advice. Sorry to take so long in getting
back. I had filled the tank with fresh fuel and left this project
alone for several days.
Today I bought a spark tester (easier than attempting to ground
the plug while pulling the start cord.) Recall I had guessed a bad
spark earlier. The spark was perfect!
Without choking, I depressed the throttle and the engine started
immediately.
So it appears Hank and some others were right. The engine must
have been severely flooded.
Initially in desperation I must have choked the engine more than I
thought. I feel very stupid about this and am sorry if I may have
misled you. I simply could not understand with the use of starting
fluid why I couldn't even get a sputter.
The cautionary tale here is this: Always follow starting
instructions exactly and be patient.
Just a word or two in defense of Homelite. For about 20 years I
had a string trimmer that started and ran flawlessly, only giving
trouble very recently. It had years of stale gas (I'm more careful
now) and never complained. I liked it because it had no centrifugal
clutch and didn't require being run at light speed. Also simply
speeding the engine momentarily to full throttle advanced the line- no
need to bump or insert line stubs manually.
So I have no problems with Homelite. And it turns out this problem
wasn't theirs!
Once again thank you all. I intend to do penance by running the
trimmer against my bare leg for one-half hour.
Frank
 




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