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Default Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??

On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:55:00 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Jul 1, 9:58*am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 07:22:22 -0700 (PDT), Harry K

wrote:
On Jun 30, 9:12 am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:


Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?


A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.


Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only diameter
matters.


Because friction in the pipe will reduce pressure by a bunch.


A "bunch"... is that universally recognized scientific nomenclature?
Internal turbulence does not occur to any appreciable degree in
typical hard pipe, especially not with smooth plastic irrigation
tubing. *Fire hose is coarsely woven cloth so is rough and does cause
turbulence but still reduction in volume is negligible considering the
very high pressure pumps used for fire fighting... were it presenting
a water volume problem you could bet your bippee that fire fighters
would use something else. *I can't imagine anyone using fire hose to
water their garden. *However gals like fire fighters watering their
gardens because of their big rough hoses with all their volume and
high pressure... and especially how they fold up so neatly for storage
in their drawers. LOL-LOL


Stretch out 500 ft of hose under 60psi and see what you have at the
end when the water is running.


I've done that occasionally... just as much volume exits 100' 200',
300' 400' as 500' or more, so long as the hose is not kinked/flattened
or otherwise constricted or run up hill whatever volume enters
exits... I'm positive you've never actually done what you suggest,
except tinkling with your tiny 2" fuse. What people don't realize is
that their hose bib valve is what dictates volume.. if your hose bib
is supplied by 1/2" copper using 5/8" hose won't supply any more
volume than a 1/2" hose, except for the first couple seconds untill
the little more volume in the larger hose is expelled, kinda like the
first burst or pressure from a pressurized hose laying out in the hot
sun... a very brief surge. And most folks do have 1/2" domestic water
plumbing in their homes to each outlet... then the only benefits of
using 5/8' garden hose is that its larger diameter and wall thickness
is much less prone to kinking/collapsing and has a longer life than
1/2" hose. It's silly to buy 3/4" garden hose for the typical
residence, it offers no benefit, it won't produce more volume and will
be heavy/clumsy, and will quickly fill your hose reel, not to mention
being more costly for nothing... 3/4" hose probably can't be coiled
into a small enough diameter to fit the typical home owner's hose reel
anyway... 3/4' hose is meant for commercial applications. One can
increase pressure at the discharge by limiting exit diameter, by
adjusting a nozzle, but that reduces volume... volume can't be
increased past what is supplied from the source. There is only so
much volume available from the typical residential water supply,
that's why sprinker systems are installed with several zones...
without separate zones if all the heads were run at once they'd
dribble n' drip like your widdle impotent peepee. It's plain
silliness installing a grid of piping over a six acre property and
then supply it from a residential well, one would still need to walk
about opening one valve at a time and stand there like a putz watering
for however long before moving on to the next area. MUCH easier
hauling water to the various plants... leave a bucket with a hole in
it by each plant, and just refill from your hauled buckets as needed,
less than 30 seconds per plant. Many large commercial nurserys use
this system, wastes far, FAR less water... many sink a few 3' lenghts
of 4" perforated poly pipe into the ground around each newly planted
sapling, then periodically pass by hauling a water tank with watering
wand in hand, don't even need to get down from the tractor to fill the
irrigators.
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Default Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??

On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:56:51 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Jun 30, 8:36*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?


A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.


it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


Didn't know you could even buy w5/8" polyi or pvc. That's mighty
small hole to push water that far. There is a reason why plumbing
tables increase pipe size for distance.


Nope, plumbing tables increase pipe diameter by how many taps branch
off... there is no benefit to increasing diameter for just point to
point. You obviously don't own your own home.
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Default Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??

On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:59:12 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Jul 1, 7:16*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 7/1/2011 8:28 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I've seen 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4. What other sizes have you
found, for garden hose?


it also comes in 1"

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


I hardly think anyone would classify a 1" hose as a 'garden hose'.


Why not, that's what it's called... not everyone has a widdle
garden... many commercial nurserys use 1" garden hose, enables them to
shoot greater volume further.
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Default Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??

On Sat, 2 Jul 2011 00:09:53 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jul 1, 12:58*pm, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 07:22:22 -0700 (PDT), Harry K

wrote:
On Jun 30, 9:12 am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:


Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?


A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.


Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only diameter
matters.


Because friction in the pipe will reduce pressure by a bunch.


A "bunch"... is that universally recognized scientific nomenclature?
Internal turbulence does not occur to any appreciable degree in
typical hard pipe, especially not with smooth plastic irrigation
tubing. *Fire hose is coarsely woven cloth so is rough and does cause
turbulence but still reduction in volume is negligible considering the
very high pressure pumps used for fire fighting... were it presenting
a water volume problem you could bet your bippee that fire fighters
would use something else. *I can't imagine anyone using fire hose to
water their garden. *However gals like fire fighters watering their
gardens because of their big rough hoses with all their volume and
high pressure... and especially how they fold up so neatly for storage
in their drawers. LOL-LOL


I hook up 50 ft of 5/8" garden hose to the sill cock at my house and
measure the water that flows out over 1 minute. I do the same thing
with 500 ft of the same hose. According to what you're claiming when
I measure it over 1 minute, the same amount of water will flow. You
have much experience here on planet Earth?


You've never done that, you don't have anymore 5/8" hose than your one
50' length or you could actually try it... I have many 100' lengths of
5/8" hose and have actually done what you suggest... whatever volume
goes in one end comes out the other end... or do you mean when your
mommy pinches your widdle peepee while changing your nappy.
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Default Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??

On Sat, 2 Jul 2011 17:30:45 +1000, "David Hare-Scott"
wrote:

James wrote:
Thanks David, and the others. First, I don't know what a "nym" is,
but sorry....


You started of as James Nipper now you are just James


My faucets at the cabin are based on the cabin water system, which is
a well, with a pressure tank in the basement. I get good pressure (60
psi), and the poly pipe will not go uphill.

As for drilling a new well, come on guys, I am talking about watering
a few plants and bushes, I just dont' want to constantly drag hoses
around. That is all that this is about. I do appreciate all the
help, and I think that the polypipe is my best bet, although David's
last comments may make me consider smaller, perhaps 3/4 inch. BTW, I
don't need much pressure at the end, just enough to do some
light watering.
James


I was suggesting that 1" could be too small not too big. 3/4" will flatten
and kink more than 1" and has about half the capacity. It's the area of the
pipe cross section that is important so the capacity varies as the square of
the diameter. Go see that irrigation specialist.


All an irrigation specialist needs to know is his well capacity and
exit pipe diameter.. I seriously doubt his little cabin's water system
can accomodate more than 3/4" outlet piping.


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Default Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??

On Jul 2, 10:50*am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jul 2011 00:09:53 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Jul 1, 12:58 pm, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 07:22:22 -0700 (PDT), Harry K


wrote:
On Jun 30, 9:12 am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:


Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?


A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.


Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only diameter
matters.


Because friction in the pipe will reduce pressure by a bunch.


A "bunch"... is that universally recognized scientific nomenclature?
Internal turbulence does not occur to any appreciable degree in
typical hard pipe, especially not with smooth plastic irrigation
tubing. Fire hose is coarsely woven cloth so is rough and does cause
turbulence but still reduction in volume is negligible considering the
very high pressure pumps used for fire fighting... were it presenting
a water volume problem you could bet your bippee that fire fighters
would use something else. I can't imagine anyone using fire hose to
water their garden. However gals like fire fighters watering their
gardens because of their big rough hoses with all their volume and
high pressure... and especially how they fold up so neatly for storage
in their drawers. LOL-LOL


I hook up 50 ft of 5/8" garden hose to the sill cock at my house and
measure the water that flows out over 1 minute. *I do the same thing
with 500 ft of the same hose. *According to what you're claiming when
I measure it over 1 minute, the same amount of water will flow. *You
have much experience here on planet Earth?


You've never done that, you don't have anymore 5/8" hose than your one
50' length or you could actually try it... I have many 100' lengths of
5/8" hose and have actually done what you suggest... whatever volume
goes in one end comes out the other end... or do you mean when your
mommy pinches your widdle peepee while changing your nappy.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Of course whatever volume goes in one end comes out the other.
That has nothing to do with what you claimed, which is that the
volume of water flowing through a pipe depends ONLY ON THE
DIAMETER. The volume of water flowing through a pipe depends
on the diameter, length, and pressure. The narrower the pipe the
more resistance to flow if has. The longer the pipe the more
resistance to flow it has. That's how the laws of
physics apply here on planet Earth. So if you connect 50 ft
of garden hose to your home which has a water pressure of
50lbs you're going to get MORE water coming out the other
end than if you connect 250 ft of hose. And if you connect a
long enough length of hose you will get zero flow because
50 lbs isn't enough pressure to overcome the total resistance.
Capiche?


And for someone so obviously ignorant, I would not be
taking cheap shots at others here.
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On Jul 2, 10:38*am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:56:51 -0700 (PDT), Harry K





wrote:
On Jun 30, 8:36 pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:


Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?


A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.


it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


Didn't know you could even buy w5/8" polyi or pvc. *That's mighty
small hole to push water that far. *There is a reason why plumbing
tables increase pipe size for distance.


Nope, plumbing tables increase pipe diameter by how many taps branch
off... there is no benefit to increasing diameter for just point to
point. *You obviously don't own your own home.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Tell that to oil companies. I guess they are just stupid to build
the Alaskan pipeline, for example, which is 4 ft in diameter and
runs point to point. They should have consulted you and done it
with a pipe 2" in diameter.
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On Jul 2, 10:57*am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jul 2011 17:30:45 +1000, "David Hare-Scott"





wrote:
James wrote:
Thanks David, and the others. *First, I don't know what a *"nym" is,
but sorry....


You started of as James Nipper now you are just James


My faucets at the cabin are based on the cabin water system, which is
a well, with a pressure tank in the basement. *I get good pressure (60
psi), and the poly pipe will not go uphill.


As for drilling a new well, come on guys, I am talking about watering
a few plants and bushes, I just dont' want to constantly drag hoses
around. That is all that this is about. * I do appreciate all the
help, and I think that the polypipe is my best bet, although David's
last comments may make me consider smaller, perhaps *3/4 *inch. * BTW, I
don't need much pressure at the end, just enough to do some
light watering.
James


I was suggesting that 1" could be too small not too big. *3/4" will flatten
and kink more than 1" and has about half the capacity. *It's the area of the
pipe cross section that is important so the capacity varies as the square of
the diameter. *Go see that irrigation specialist.


All an irrigation specialist needs to know is his well capacity and
exit pipe diameter.. I seriously doubt his little cabin's water system
can accomodate more than 3/4" outlet piping.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


You are such a complete moron it isn't even funny. Have you seen
many wells with a 3/4 inch connection?
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On 7/2/2011 10:38 AM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:56:51 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Jun 30, 8:36 pm, Steve wrote:
On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


Didn't know you could even buy w5/8" polyi or pvc. That's mighty
small hole to push water that far. There is a reason why plumbing
tables increase pipe size for distance.


Nope, plumbing tables increase pipe diameter by how many taps branch
off... there is no benefit to increasing diameter for just point to
point. You obviously don't own your own home.


Sounds like someone is an "expert" who doesn't understand both basic
physics and standard practice that results from it..
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wrote:
On Jul 2, 10:50 am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jul 2011 00:09:53 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Jul 1, 12:58 pm, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 07:22:22 -0700 (PDT), Harry K


wrote:
On Jun 30, 9:12 am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:


Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?


A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.


Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only
diameter matters.


Because friction in the pipe will reduce pressure by a bunch.


A "bunch"... is that universally recognized scientific
nomenclature? Internal turbulence does not occur to any
appreciable degree in typical hard pipe, especially not with
smooth plastic irrigation tubing. Fire hose is coarsely woven
cloth so is rough and does cause turbulence but still reduction in
volume is negligible considering the very high pressure pumps used
for fire fighting... were it presenting a water volume problem you
could bet your bippee that fire fighters would use something else.
I can't imagine anyone using fire hose to water their garden.
However gals like fire fighters watering their gardens because of
their big rough hoses with all their volume and high pressure...
and especially how they fold up so neatly for storage in their
drawers. LOL-LOL


I hook up 50 ft of 5/8" garden hose to the sill cock at my house and
measure the water that flows out over 1 minute. I do the same thing
with 500 ft of the same hose. According to what you're claiming when
I measure it over 1 minute, the same amount of water will flow. You
have much experience here on planet Earth?


You've never done that, you don't have anymore 5/8" hose than your
one 50' length or you could actually try it... I have many 100'
lengths of 5/8" hose and have actually done what you suggest...
whatever volume
goes in one end comes out the other end... or do you mean when your
mommy pinches your widdle peepee while changing your nappy.- Hide
quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Of course whatever volume goes in one end comes out the other.
That has nothing to do with what you claimed, which is that the
volume of water flowing through a pipe depends ONLY ON THE
DIAMETER. The volume of water flowing through a pipe depends
on the diameter, length, and pressure. The narrower the pipe the
more resistance to flow if has. The longer the pipe the more
resistance to flow it has. That's how the laws of
physics apply here on planet Earth. So if you connect 50 ft
of garden hose to your home which has a water pressure of
50lbs you're going to get MORE water coming out the other
end than if you connect 250 ft of hose. And if you connect a
long enough length of hose you will get zero flow because
50 lbs isn't enough pressure to overcome the total resistance.
Capiche?


And for someone so obviously ignorant, I would not be
taking cheap shots at others here.


He's a know-it-all, who doesn't. Ho's obviously never done the tests he claims
he has, as the reported results are physically impossible. OR, his water supply
is so limited that it can't show him real world results.




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Steve Barker wrote:
On 7/1/2011 7:13 PM, Bob F wrote:
Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/30/2011 11:00 PM, Bob F wrote:
Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.



it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.

Exactly. That's why you use larger poly or PVC than the common
garden hose.

OR you could use a larger garden hose. duh.


Do you have a 1" or 1.5" garden hose?



Have some 1". yes.


The largest "garden hose" I've ever seen is 3/4", and that's hard to find. Most
is 1/2" or 5/8". My long garden hose is two 3/4" hoses together, a 75' and a
50'. 3/4" is because with that length, smaller hose just won't get enough water
through to run large volume sprinklers the way I need.


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Steve Barker wrote:
On 7/1/2011 8:28 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've seen 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4. What other sizes have you
found, for garden hose?



http://www.factorydirecthose.com/sit...2/page/3845476

http://www.gemplers.com/product/1258...en-Garden-Hose

http://www.nextag.com/1-inch-water-hose/products-html

http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CGgQ8wIwBA


Not cheap, is it. Also, not the kind of thing you find in big city box stores.

I'd like to find someone throwing away a couple hundred feet of that hose.


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George wrote:
On 7/2/2011 10:38 AM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:56:51 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Jun 30, 8:36 pm, Steve wrote:
On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Didn't know you could even buy w5/8" polyi or pvc. That's mighty
small hole to push water that far. There is a reason why plumbing
tables increase pipe size for distance.


Nope, plumbing tables increase pipe diameter by how many taps branch
off... there is no benefit to increasing diameter for just point to
point. You obviously don't own your own home.


Sounds like someone is an "expert" who doesn't understand both basic
physics and standard practice that results from it..


He's funny. Not even a basic understanding of fluid flows. A classic
know-it-all.

Notice that "length" is one of the factors in calculating flow rates.
http://www.efunda.com/formulae/fluid...e_friction.cfm


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FarmI wrote:
"Colbyt" wrote in message
...

"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
message ...
First thing comes to mind, is sunlight and the UV rays. So,
what you use should be UV resistant.

White PVC tubing might work for a while.

I have black polypipe that's been in the sunlight for up to 20
years. The biggest danger to my black polypipe has been from my
garden fork and frost popping the connectors off.


quoteBlack HDPE pipe containing 2 to 2.5% carbon black can be
safely stored outside in the sun without damage from UV exposure.
/quote source: http://www.polymoldproducts.com/PE_PIPES.htm

Some poly pipe can take it and some apparently can not.


It'd be as useless as tits on a man's back if it couldnt' be used out
in the sun in Australia.


Even in Seattle?


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Brooklyn1 wrote:
I ran 1" PVC about a 1/4 mile buried in 1976. Still in service today
with no leaks. Same for all my sprinkler lines. Only leak I have
had was one fitting where I made the misstake of using a female
PVC/male Iron fitting. NEVER do that! Always use a malepvc/female
iron. Much fun as it broke in the middle of winter and I had to shut
off the the entire line until spring so I could dig it up.


Where do you live that you're irrigating in winter... and if you live
in a warm clime where one irrigates all year WTF mention winter, and
if it's warm enough to irrigate WTF would you need to wait until
spring to dig... are you fibbing? From reading your posts you're just
making it ALL up... "iron" irrigation fittings your ass.


Iron - maybe "galvanized iron" pipe would help you understand.

You really are full of it aren't you. The more you talk, the better we can see
that you know nothing. There are plenty of possible reasons to need water during
the winter.

It is common knowledge that Female PVC fittings don't hold up well, whether the
male fitting is PVC, iron pipe, or even brass. The Female fittings tend to leak,
until you tighten them down enough, then they split.




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On 2011-07-02, George wrote:

Sounds like someone is an "expert" who doesn't understand both basic
physics and standard practice that results from it..


Heh.... George, meet Sheldon, or Shellshock, or jes plain shelly. He
never lets the facts get in the way of an opinionated and/or colorful
post.

nb
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wrote:
On Jul 2, 10:57 am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jul 2011 17:30:45 +1000, "David Hare-Scott"





wrote:
James wrote:
Thanks David, and the others. First, I don't know what a "nym" is,
but sorry....


You started of as James Nipper now you are just James


My faucets at the cabin are based on the cabin water system, which
is a well, with a pressure tank in the basement. I get good
pressure (60 psi), and the poly pipe will not go uphill.


As for drilling a new well, come on guys, I am talking about
watering a few plants and bushes, I just dont' want to constantly
drag hoses around. That is all that this is about. I do appreciate
all the help, and I think that the polypipe is my best bet,
although David's last comments may make me consider smaller,
perhaps 3/4 inch. BTW, I don't need much pressure at the end, just
enough to do some
light watering.
James


I was suggesting that 1" could be too small not too big. 3/4" will
flatten and kink more than 1" and has about half the capacity. It's
the area of the pipe cross section that is important so the
capacity varies as the square of the diameter. Go see that
irrigation specialist.


All an irrigation specialist needs to know is his well capacity and
exit pipe diameter.. I seriously doubt his little cabin's water
system can accomodate more than 3/4" outlet piping.- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -


You are such a complete moron it isn't even funny. Have you seen
many wells with a 3/4 inch connection?


You are so wrong! It is funny!

My sprinkler pump has a 1" outlet. And that's a small pump.


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Steve B wrote:
I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of
about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the
name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from
that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the
woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during
winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a
drain screw or valve or something.


Investigate underground piping, and associated valves. There is one
that opens a valve in the ground below freezing level, and when the
water is turned off, drains the water in the stand pipe to keep it
from freezing. No need to totally drain the lines if you put them in
deep enough. Not sure of their name, but I have seen lots of them in
freezing country. They are red, and have a crooked handle top.


Frost proof "yard hydrants" work as you describe. There are also spprinkler
drain valve that open when the pressure drops after the water supply is turned
off to allow the properly installed pipes to drain before winter. They are
installed at the low spot (or spots) of each zone.


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On Jul 2, 7:28*am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:55:00 -0700 (PDT), Harry K





wrote:
On Jul 1, 9:58*am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 07:22:22 -0700 (PDT), Harry K


wrote:
On Jun 30, 9:12 am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:


Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?


A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.


Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only diameter
matters.


Because friction in the pipe will reduce pressure by a bunch.


A "bunch"... is that universally recognized scientific nomenclature?
Internal turbulence does not occur to any appreciable degree in
typical hard pipe, especially not with smooth plastic irrigation
tubing. *Fire hose is coarsely woven cloth so is rough and does cause
turbulence but still reduction in volume is negligible considering the
very high pressure pumps used for fire fighting... were it presenting
a water volume problem you could bet your bippee that fire fighters
would use something else. *I can't imagine anyone using fire hose to
water their garden. *However gals like fire fighters watering their
gardens because of their big rough hoses with all their volume and
high pressure... and especially how they fold up so neatly for storage
in their drawers. LOL-LOL


Stretch out 500 ft of hose under 60psi and see what you have at the
end when the water is running.


I've done that occasionally... just as much volume exits 100' 200',
300' 400' as 500' or more, so long as the hose is not kinked/flattened
or otherwise constricted or run up hill whatever volume enters
exits... I'm positive you've never actually done what you suggest,
except tinkling with your tiny 2" fuse. *What people don't realize is
that their hose bib valve is what dictates volume.. if your hose bib
is supplied by 1/2" copper using 5/8" hose won't supply any more
volume than a 1/2" hose, except for the first couple seconds untill
the little more volume in the larger hose is expelled, kinda like the
first burst or pressure from a pressurized hose laying out in the hot
sun... a very brief surge. *And most folks do have 1/2" domestic water
plumbing in their homes to each outlet... then the only benefits of
using 5/8' garden hose is that its larger diameter and wall thickness
is much less prone to kinking/collapsing and has a longer life than
1/2" hose. *It's silly to buy 3/4" garden hose for the typical
residence, it offers no benefit, it won't produce more volume and will
be heavy/clumsy, and will quickly fill your hose reel, not to mention
being more costly for nothing... 3/4" hose probably can't be coiled
into a small enough diameter to fit the typical home owner's hose reel
anyway... 3/4' hose is meant for commercial applications. *One can
increase pressure at the discharge by limiting exit diameter, by
adjusting a nozzle, but that reduces volume... volume can't be
increased past what is supplied from the source. *There is only so
much volume available from the typical residential water supply,
that's why sprinker systems are installed with several zones...
without separate zones if all the heads were run at once they'd
dribble n' drip like your widdle impotent peepee. *It's plain
silliness installing a grid of piping over a six acre property and
then supply it from a residential well, one would still need to walk
about opening one valve at a time and stand there like a putz watering
for however long before moving on to the next area. * MUCH easier
hauling water to the various plants... leave a bucket with a hole in
it by each plant, and just refill from your hauled buckets as needed,
less than 30 seconds per plant. *Many large commercial nurserys use
this system, wastes far, FAR less water... many sink a few 3' lenghts
of 4" perforated poly pipe into the ground around each newly planted
sapling, then periodically pass by hauling a water tank with watering
wand in hand, don't even need to get down from the tractor to fill the
irrigators.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Try telling all that to any plumber or irrigation specialisst.
Prepare for them to laugh in your face.

Harry K
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Default Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??

On Jul 2, 7:38*am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:56:51 -0700 (PDT), Harry K





wrote:
On Jun 30, 8:36 pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:


Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?


A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.


it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


Didn't know you could even buy w5/8" polyi or pvc. *That's mighty
small hole to push water that far. *There is a reason why plumbing
tables increase pipe size for distance.


Nope, plumbing tables increase pipe diameter by how many taps branch
off... there is no benefit to increasing diameter for just point to
point. *You obviously don't own your own home.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Geez. Did you totally fail every class involving physics?

Getting a bit tired of your juvenile cheap shots. So far all of them
addressed to me and other have proven to be as wrong as your knowledge
of hydraulics.

I not onlyi own my own home it has been paid for for over 30 years and
sits on 2 acres (half no longer irrigated).

Harry K



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On Jul 2, 5:15*am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:52:35 -0700 (PDT), Harry K





wrote:
On Jul 1, 5:37*pm, SMS wrote:
On 7/1/2011 5:23 PM, Bob F wrote:


Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 22:42:57 -0700,
wrote:


On 6/29/2011 4:30 PM, James Nipper wrote:


Any ideas of what I should look for, *or use ? *Any general ideas
of how to accomplish what I am trying to do ?


Remember that PVC pipe deteriorates in the sun unless painted.


Buy 20' lengths of 1" PVC at an irrigation supply house, don't go to
Home Depot or Lowe's.


For a large job such as described by the OP 20' lenghts will cause
lots of leaking problems, and short lengths can't be laid by
machine... Home Depot, Lowes, and any plumbing supply emporium sells
tubing in spools of several hundred feet. *You can buy 300' rolls of
1" PVC from Amazon with free shipping:
http://www.amazon.com/Genova-Product...rrigation/dp/B...


Would still be easier and less costly to haul water as needed.


That's poly, not PVC.


I would definitely avoid the poly unless he wants to be replacing it
every couple of years.


If you glue couplers properly there will be no leaks.


It's UV deterioration that he needs to worry about. When PVC is
installed exposed to the sun it needs to be painted.


Flexible PVC would also work, but it's not intended to be under pressure
all the time, and it's for non-potable water. 100' lengths. It's pretty
expensive though. It'd be the easiest to install.


I often see very long runs of pipe in state parks where they are running
water to a campground. It's always iron pipe.


http://flexpvc.com/-Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


I ran 1" PVC about a 1/4 mile buried in 1976. *Still in service today
with no leaks. *Same for all my sprinkler lines. *Only leak I have had
was one fitting where I made the misstake of using a female PVC/male
Iron fitting. *NEVER do that! Always use a malepvc/female iron. Much
fun as it broke in the middle of winter and I had to shut off the the
entire line until spring so I could dig it up.


Where do you live that you're irrigating in winter... and if you live
in a warm clime where one irrigates all year WTF mention winter, and
if it's warm enough to irrigate WTF would you need to wait until
spring to dig... are you fibbing? *From reading your posts you're just
making it ALL up... "iron" irrigation fittings your ass.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


WTH? Where did I say I irrigate in winter? The system was my new
well. the line that broke was an irrigation line used in summer.
Where do I live? In Wa State.

Why don't you just give up? You have proven to be an utter moron,

Harry K

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On Jul 2, 10:40*am, "Bob F" wrote:
Brooklyn1 wrote:
I ran 1" PVC about a 1/4 mile buried in 1976. *Still in service today
with no leaks. *Same for all my sprinkler lines. *Only leak I have
had was one fitting where I made the misstake of using a female
PVC/male Iron fitting. *NEVER do that! Always use a malepvc/female
iron. Much fun as it broke in the middle of winter and I had to shut
off the the entire line until spring so I could dig it up.


Where do you live that you're irrigating in winter... and if you live
in a warm clime where one irrigates all year WTF mention winter, and
if it's warm enough to irrigate WTF would you need to wait until
spring to dig... are you fibbing? *From reading your posts you're just
making it ALL up... "iron" irrigation fittings your ass.


Iron - maybe "galvanized iron" pipe would help you understand.


I fully doubt that. Nothing seems to sink into that head of his. At
first I thought he was just another no-nothing, now I am sure he could
be certified as a moron by a psychiatrist.



You really are full of it aren't you. The more you talk, the better we can see
that you know nothing. There are plenty of possible reasons to need water during
the winter.

It is common knowledge that Female PVC fittings don't hold up well, whether the
male fitting is PVC, iron pipe, or even brass. The Female fittings tend to leak,
until you tighten them down enough, then they split.


Exactly what happened to my line. I laid it in the fall and the leak
(massive) surfaced in January. Had to shut down my well and re-open
the community well line that I gave up on by drilling my own well. I
had wound up being the unpaid maintenance man on the community well.
Had enough of that after 10 years.

Harry K
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On Jul 2, 8:49*am, "
wrote:
On Jul 2, 10:57*am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:





On Sat, 2 Jul 2011 17:30:45 +1000, "David Hare-Scott"


wrote:
James wrote:
Thanks David, and the others. *First, I don't know what a *"nym" is,
but sorry....


You started of as James Nipper now you are just James


My faucets at the cabin are based on the cabin water system, which is
a well, with a pressure tank in the basement. *I get good pressure (60
psi), and the poly pipe will not go uphill.


As for drilling a new well, come on guys, I am talking about watering
a few plants and bushes, I just dont' want to constantly drag hoses
around. That is all that this is about. * I do appreciate all the
help, and I think that the polypipe is my best bet, although David's
last comments may make me consider smaller, perhaps *3/4 *inch. * BTW, I
don't need much pressure at the end, just enough to do some
light watering.
James


I was suggesting that 1" could be too small not too big. *3/4" will flatten
and kink more than 1" and has about half the capacity. *It's the area of the
pipe cross section that is important so the capacity varies as the square of
the diameter. *Go see that irrigation specialist.


All an irrigation specialist needs to know is his well capacity and
exit pipe diameter.. I seriously doubt his little cabin's water system
can accomodate more than 3/4" outlet piping.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


You are such a complete moron it isn't even funny. *Have you seen
many wells with a 3/4 inch connection?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I don't think he has seen _any_ plumbing except the spigot next to his
trailer house.

Harry K
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On 7/1/2011 11:56 PM, Harry K wrote:
On Jun 30, 8:36 pm, Steve wrote:
On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?


A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.


it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


Didn't know you could even buy w5/8" polyi or pvc. That's mighty
small hole to push water that far. There is a reason why plumbing
tables increase pipe size for distance.

Harry K


I don't have or use any 5/8 garden hose. That'd be worthless.

--
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On 7/2/2011 9:28 AM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:55:00 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Jul 1, 9:58 am, Brooklyn1Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 07:22:22 -0700 (PDT), Harry K

wrote:
On Jun 30, 9:12 am, Brooklyn1Gravesend1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only diameter
matters.

Because friction in the pipe will reduce pressure by a bunch.

A "bunch"... is that universally recognized scientific nomenclature?
Internal turbulence does not occur to any appreciable degree in
typical hard pipe, especially not with smooth plastic irrigation
tubing. Fire hose is coarsely woven cloth so is rough and does cause
turbulence but still reduction in volume is negligible considering the
very high pressure pumps used for fire fighting... were it presenting
a water volume problem you could bet your bippee that fire fighters
would use something else. I can't imagine anyone using fire hose to
water their garden. However gals like fire fighters watering their
gardens because of their big rough hoses with all their volume and
high pressure... and especially how they fold up so neatly for storage
in their drawers. LOL-LOL


Stretch out 500 ft of hose under 60psi and see what you have at the
end when the water is running.


I've done that occasionally... just as much volume exits 100' 200',
300' 400' as 500' or more, so long as the hose is not kinked/flattened
or otherwise constricted or run up hill whatever volume enters
exits... I'm positive you've never actually done what you suggest,
except tinkling with your tiny 2" fuse. What people don't realize is
that their hose bib valve is what dictates volume.. if your hose bib
is supplied by 1/2" copper using 5/8" hose won't supply any more
volume than a 1/2" hose, except for the first couple seconds untill
the little more volume in the larger hose is expelled, kinda like the
first burst or pressure from a pressurized hose laying out in the hot
sun... a very brief surge. And most folks do have 1/2" domestic water
plumbing in their homes to each outlet... then the only benefits of
using 5/8' garden hose is that its larger diameter and wall thickness
is much less prone to kinking/collapsing and has a longer life than
1/2" hose. It's silly to buy 3/4" garden hose for the typical
residence, it offers no benefit, it won't produce more volume and will
be heavy/clumsy, and will quickly fill your hose reel, not to mention
being more costly for nothing... 3/4" hose probably can't be coiled
into a small enough diameter to fit the typical home owner's hose reel
anyway... 3/4' hose is meant for commercial applications. One can
increase pressure at the discharge by limiting exit diameter, by
adjusting a nozzle, but that reduces volume... volume can't be
increased past what is supplied from the source. There is only so
much volume available from the typical residential water supply,
that's why sprinker systems are installed with several zones...
without separate zones if all the heads were run at once they'd
dribble n' drip like your widdle impotent peepee. It's plain
silliness installing a grid of piping over a six acre property and
then supply it from a residential well, one would still need to walk
about opening one valve at a time and stand there like a putz watering
for however long before moving on to the next area. MUCH easier
hauling water to the various plants... leave a bucket with a hole in
it by each plant, and just refill from your hauled buckets as needed,
less than 30 seconds per plant. Many large commercial nurserys use
this system, wastes far, FAR less water... many sink a few 3' lenghts
of 4" perforated poly pipe into the ground around each newly planted
sapling, then periodically pass by hauling a water tank with watering
wand in hand, don't even need to get down from the tractor to fill the
irrigators.


Have you ever heard of frictional losses?

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


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On 7/1/2011 11:59 PM, Harry K wrote:
On Jul 1, 7:16 pm, Steve wrote:
On 7/1/2011 8:28 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I've seen 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4. What other sizes have you
found, for garden hose?


it also comes in 1"

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


I hardly think anyone would classify a 1" hose as a 'garden hose'.

Harry K


that's what the people who make and sell them call them.


--
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On 7/2/2011 6:14 AM, Steve B wrote:
I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about
500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the
current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main
line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use,
I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could
get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something.


Investigate underground piping, and associated valves. There is one that
opens a valve in the ground below freezing level, and when the water is
turned off, drains the water in the stand pipe to keep it from freezing. No
need to totally drain the lines if you put them in deep enough. Not sure of
their name, but I have seen lots of them in freezing country. They are red,
and have a crooked handle top.

Steve



They are called Frost Free Yard Hydrant. You have to remember to
surround the bottom of them with coarse rock to give the water someplace
to drain.

http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-YH-5L.../dp/B002RO73HU


--
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On 7/2/2011 11:58 AM, Bob F wrote:
Steve Barker wrote:
On 7/1/2011 7:13 PM, Bob F wrote:
Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/30/2011 11:00 PM, Bob F wrote:
Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.



it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.

Exactly. That's why you use larger poly or PVC than the common
garden hose.

OR you could use a larger garden hose. duh.

Do you have a 1" or 1.5" garden hose?



Have some 1". yes.


The largest "garden hose" I've ever seen is 3/4", and that's hard to find. Most
is 1/2" or 5/8". My long garden hose is two 3/4" hoses together, a 75' and a
50'. 3/4" is because with that length, smaller hose just won't get enough water
through to run large volume sprinklers the way I need.




ok. well that's what YOU've seen. I happen to have SEEN 1" and have
some also. I posted several links to purchase 1" garden hose.

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Steve Barker wrote:
On 7/2/2011 11:58 AM, Bob F wrote:
Steve Barker wrote:
On 7/1/2011 7:13 PM, Bob F wrote:
Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/30/2011 11:00 PM, Bob F wrote:
Steve Barker wrote:
On 6/30/2011 9:22 AM, Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.



it'll pass as much water as a same sized poly or pvc.

Exactly. That's why you use larger poly or PVC than the common
garden hose.

OR you could use a larger garden hose. duh.

Do you have a 1" or 1.5" garden hose?



Have some 1". yes.


The largest "garden hose" I've ever seen is 3/4", and that's hard to
find. Most is 1/2" or 5/8". My long garden hose is two 3/4" hoses
together, a 75' and a 50'. 3/4" is because with that length, smaller
hose just won't get enough water through to run large volume
sprinklers the way I need.



ok. well that's what YOU've seen. I happen to have SEEN 1" and have
some also. I posted several links to purchase 1" garden hose.


As I said elsewhere, it is not available in any of the usual retail stores where
I live, and persoanlly, I have never once seen 1" garden hoses in a retail
store. It's hard to even find 3/4" in most stores. I never denied it could
exist, but it is certainly a specialty item.


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Harry K wrote:
Iron - maybe "galvanized iron" pipe would help you understand.


I fully doubt that. Nothing seems to sink into that head of his. At
first I thought he was just another no-nothing, now I am sure he could
be certified as a moron by a psychiatrist.



You really are full of it aren't you. The more you talk, the better
we can see that you know nothing. There are plenty of possible
reasons to need water during the winter.

It is common knowledge that Female PVC fittings don't hold up well,
whether the male fitting is PVC, iron pipe, or even brass. The
Female fittings tend to leak, until you tighten them down enough,
then they split.


Exactly what happened to my line. I laid it in the fall and the leak
(massive) surfaced in January. Had to shut down my well and re-open
the community well line that I gave up on by drilling my own well. I
had wound up being the unpaid maintenance man on the community well.
Had enough of that after 10 years.


FWIW, one possible way to improve the performance of female threaded PVC fitting
is to tighten a hose clamp around the threaded portion before screwing in the
male thread. It keeps the fitting from splitting nearly so easy.




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On Jul 2, 1:11*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 7/1/2011 11:59 PM, Harry K wrote:

On Jul 1, 7:16 pm, Steve *wrote:
On 7/1/2011 8:28 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:


I've seen 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4. What other sizes have you
found, for garden hose?


it also comes in 1"


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


I hardly think anyone would classify a 1" hose as a 'garden hose'.


Harry K


that's what the people who make and sell them call them.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email


Yes they do but the average person doesn't.

Harry K
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"Bob F" wrote in message
FarmI wrote:
"Colbyt" wrote in message
...

"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
message ...
First thing comes to mind, is sunlight and the UV rays. So,
what you use should be UV resistant.

White PVC tubing might work for a while.

I have black polypipe that's been in the sunlight for up to 20
years. The biggest danger to my black polypipe has been from my
garden fork and frost popping the connectors off.


quoteBlack HDPE pipe containing 2 to 2.5% carbon black can be
safely stored outside in the sun without damage from UV exposure.
/quote source: http://www.polymoldproducts.com/PE_PIPES.htm

Some poly pipe can take it and some apparently can not.


It'd be as useless as tits on a man's back if it couldnt' be used out
in the sun in Australia.


Even in Seattle?


Seattle isn't in Australia. And from my limited knowledge of Seattle, I
thought it got lots of rain??????


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"Bob F" wrote in message
...
Brooklyn1 wrote:
I ran 1" PVC about a 1/4 mile buried in 1976. Still in service today
with no leaks. Same for all my sprinkler lines. Only leak I have
had was one fitting where I made the misstake of using a female
PVC/male Iron fitting. NEVER do that! Always use a malepvc/female
iron. Much fun as it broke in the middle of winter and I had to shut
off the the entire line until spring so I could dig it up.


Where do you live that you're irrigating in winter... and if you live
in a warm clime where one irrigates all year WTF mention winter, and
if it's warm enough to irrigate WTF would you need to wait until
spring to dig... are you fibbing? From reading your posts you're just
making it ALL up... "iron" irrigation fittings your ass.


Iron - maybe "galvanized iron" pipe would help you understand.

You really are full of it aren't you. The more you talk, the better we can
see that you know nothing. There are plenty of possible reasons to need
water during the winter.


Yep. I'm in mid winter now in the sthn hemisphere and since it's been the
driest June for decades, I've currently got my low pressure sprinkers
running on my asparagus bed.


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Default Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??

In article ,
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote:

"Bob F" wrote in message
FarmI wrote:
"Colbyt" wrote in message
...

"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
u...
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
message ...
First thing comes to mind, is sunlight and the UV rays. So,
what you use should be UV resistant.

White PVC tubing might work for a while.

I have black polypipe that's been in the sunlight for up to 20
years. The biggest danger to my black polypipe has been from my
garden fork and frost popping the connectors off.


quoteBlack HDPE pipe containing 2 to 2.5% carbon black can be
safely stored outside in the sun without damage from UV exposure.
/quote source: http://www.polymoldproducts.com/PE_PIPES.htm

Some poly pipe can take it and some apparently can not.

It'd be as useless as tits on a man's back if it couldnt' be used out
in the sun in Australia.


Even in Seattle?


Seattle isn't in Australia. And from my limited knowledge of Seattle, I
thought it got lots of rain??????


Only 9 months out of the year. Summer (the other season) is dry-ish.
--
- Billy

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of the American political landscape.

America is not broke. The country is awash in wealth and cash.
It's just that it's not in your hands. It has been transferred, in the
greatest heist in history, from the workers and consumers to the banks
and the portfolios of the uber-rich.
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