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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?

I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of "stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?


http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg

http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg





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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?

On Apr 16, 3:39*pm, "CraigT" wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. * Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of *"stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. *Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg

http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg



Craig:

I only see ONE thing you need an access panel installed for...

Your furnace duct vent dampers shouldn't need to be adjusted
unless you install a new furnace fan with a different performance
curve than the one in place now... (subtract 7 access panels)

The water shut off for your refrigerator ice maker and filtered
water dispenser should be relocated above the floor behind
the appliance if you are going to finish the ceiling below --
then it is accessible... (subtract 1 access panel)

Now for your electrical boxes... Those can be extended
and or moved by a qualified electrician with no problems...
You did want to have lights in the basement after you
finished the ceiling ? Or are there actually more electrical
boxes just being used for lighting ? Anyway, they are
not immovable objects just because you can't seem to
figure out how to do it... (subtract 3 access panels)

BTW: were you planning to seal the smoke detector
and its box in above the ceiling ?

Let's see, the only thing left that would be a true pain
to relocate would be the gas shut off... So that is the
only thing that truly needs an access panel...

Your furnace is only going to be replaced fairly infrequently
so if you need to re-balance the duct system after that
happens then it is worth cutting into the sheet rock ceiling
to do that, but installing 7 access panels or a drop
ceiling just in case you ever need to make an adjustment
is foolish and would require quite a bit of extra labor or
losing several inches of finished height in the room...

So it is just a matter of doing the job the right way and
moving those things which are movable, realizing what
things can be concealed and installing a panel for the
one thing which you would actually need to get at above
the ceiling...

~~ Evan

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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?

On Apr 16, 4:23*pm, Evan wrote:
On Apr 16, 3:39*pm, "CraigT" wrote:

I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. * Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of *"stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. *Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?


http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg


http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg


Craig:

I only see ONE thing you need an access panel installed for...

Your furnace duct vent dampers shouldn't need to be adjusted
unless you install a new furnace fan with a different performance
curve than the one in place now... *(subtract 7 access panels)

The water shut off for your refrigerator ice maker and filtered
water dispenser should be relocated above the floor behind
the appliance if you are going to finish the ceiling below --
then it is accessible... *(subtract 1 access panel)

Now for your electrical boxes... *Those can be extended
and or moved by a qualified electrician with no problems...
You did want to have lights in the basement after you
finished the ceiling ? *Or are there actually more electrical
boxes just being used for lighting ? *Anyway, they are
not immovable objects just because you can't seem to
figure out how to do it... *(subtract 3 access panels)

BTW: were you planning to seal the smoke detector
and its box in above the ceiling ?

Let's see, the only thing left that would be a true pain
to relocate would be the gas shut off... *So that is the
only thing that truly needs an access panel...

Your furnace is only going to be replaced fairly infrequently
so if you need to re-balance the duct system after that
happens then it is worth cutting into the sheet rock ceiling
to do that, but installing 7 access panels or a drop
ceiling just in case you ever need to make an adjustment
is foolish and would require quite a bit of extra labor or
losing several inches of finished height in the room...

So it is just a matter of doing the job the right way and
moving those things which are movable, realizing what
things can be concealed and installing a panel for the
one thing which you would actually need to get at above
the ceiling...

~~ Evan


DROP CIELING IS FAR BETTER, stuff comes up requiring basement
access.

dont seal it up, and you can get drop cielings with just a inch of
panel move space
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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?


"Evan" wrote in message
...
On Apr 16, 3:39 pm, "CraigT" wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement
that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of "stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg

http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg



Now for your electrical boxes... Those can be extended
and or moved by a qualified electrician with no problems...
You did want to have lights in the basement after you
finished the ceiling ? Or are there actually more electrical
boxes just being used for lighting ? Anyway, they are
not immovable objects just because you can't seem to
figure out how to do it... (subtract 3 access panels)

** So what psychic ability do you possess that you can determine from the
little information furnished, how easy or difficult it will be to relocate
the electrical boxes. From where I sit, I can't determine what type of
boxes, number of cables in each, length and direction each cable travels,
etc, etc. There is no question that eliminating them from their present
location is possible, but there are sure a lot of possibilities that may
make it impractical.


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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?

Hi,

CraigT wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of "stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

Hi,
I think you answered your own question. It may cost more but I always
prefered drop ceiling. There are many choices for panels. My vote is
drop ceiling on condition you have enough head room. My basement ceiling
was 9 feet high before it was finished.


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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?

On 4/16/2011 7:34 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Hi,

CraigT wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement
that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of "stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

Hi,
I think you answered your own question. It may cost more but I always
prefered drop ceiling. There are many choices for panels. My vote is
drop ceiling on condition you have enough head room. My basement ceiling
was 9 feet high before it was finished.


IMHO, 8.5 feet between finish slab and bottom of centerline beam, should
be a code requirement. My father always encouraged owners to spring for
the extra foot of hole and course of block, as he was walking them
through the design phase. The additional cost is relatively trivial,
and it makes finishing out the basement SO much easier, without ending
up with the usual finished basement look of a 7.5' ceiling and a
head-banger running down the middle. He also encouraged putting the
furnace toward the dead corner of the basement, behind the stairwell
wall (he never did floating stairs), to maximize the easily finishable
space while still leaving a large enough mechanical room for easy
service and eventual furnace/WH replacement. (It sucks to have to demo
a basement wall to change the water heater.)

--
aem sends....


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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?


"Evan" wrote in message
...
On Apr 16, 3:39 pm, "CraigT" wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement
that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of "stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg

http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg



Craig:

I only see ONE thing you need an access panel installed for...

Your furnace duct vent dampers shouldn't need to be adjusted
unless you install a new furnace fan with a different performance
curve than the one in place now... (subtract 7 access panels)

The water shut off for your refrigerator ice maker and filtered
water dispenser should be relocated above the floor behind
the appliance if you are going to finish the ceiling below --
then it is accessible... (subtract 1 access panel)

Now for your electrical boxes... Those can be extended
and or moved by a qualified electrician with no problems...
You did want to have lights in the basement after you
finished the ceiling ? Or are there actually more electrical
boxes just being used for lighting ? Anyway, they are
not immovable objects just because you can't seem to
figure out how to do it... (subtract 3 access panels)

BTW: were you planning to seal the smoke detector
and its box in above the ceiling ?

Let's see, the only thing left that would be a true pain
to relocate would be the gas shut off... So that is the
only thing that truly needs an access panel...

Your furnace is only going to be replaced fairly infrequently
so if you need to re-balance the duct system after that
happens then it is worth cutting into the sheet rock ceiling
to do that, but installing 7 access panels or a drop
ceiling just in case you ever need to make an adjustment
is foolish and would require quite a bit of extra labor or
losing several inches of finished height in the room...

So it is just a matter of doing the job the right way and
moving those things which are movable, realizing what
things can be concealed and installing a panel for the
one thing which you would actually need to get at above
the ceiling...

~~ Evan


Moving those electrical boxes might not be as easy as you think. This is a
2400 sq. foot quad level home. Most of those boxes have four wire runs
coming from them. On two of the runs, I'll have to find the where they go
and install longer wire, unless I can break into a wall on the main floor
and install yet another (exposed) box to extend the wire. If I were to
hire it out I'm sure the cost would exceed $500 vs. the cost and look of
access panels.

I did not include the electrical boxes used for lighting, because they are
of no concern and will be converted to can lighting which have integrated
boxes.

As for the water shutoff for the fridge, if I were to move it behind the
fridge it would likely cause the fridge to move out into the room more than
the 1" of clearance my pantry door now has as it clears the front of the
fridge.

As for the dampers on the ducting, I usually rebalance the system as the
seasons change from heating to cooling, directing more airflow to the upper
floors during cooling and more to the lower floors during heating season.
It seems more efficient that way.

And, no, I wasn't going to put the smoke detector behind the access panel.



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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?


"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
On 4/16/2011 7:34 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Hi,

CraigT wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement
that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access
panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18'
X
27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of "stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

Hi,
I think you answered your own question. It may cost more but I always
prefered drop ceiling. There are many choices for panels. My vote is
drop ceiling on condition you have enough head room. My basement ceiling
was 9 feet high before it was finished.


IMHO, 8.5 feet between finish slab and bottom of centerline beam, should
be a code requirement. My father always encouraged owners to spring for
the extra foot of hole and course of block, as he was walking them through
the design phase. The additional cost is relatively trivial, and it makes
finishing out the basement SO much easier, without ending up with the
usual finished basement look of a 7.5' ceiling and a head-banger running
down the middle. He also encouraged putting the furnace toward the dead
corner of the basement, behind the stairwell wall (he never did floating
stairs), to maximize the easily finishable space while still leaving a
large enough mechanical room for easy service and eventual furnace/WH
replacement. (It sucks to have to demo a basement wall to change the water
heater.)

--
aem sends....

As it stands now if I put in a drop ceiling, it'll be 7' 6" and that will be
below the beam. If I wanted to go higher and box in the beam I'd also have
to box in the large square heat vent and the large square cold air return
along with two six foot long round vent runs that snake down into that space
then go back up again. I think I'll live with a dead flat 7' 6" ceiling.



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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?

CraigT wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout
basement that if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12
access
panels for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area
18' X 27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of
"stuff" I need access to and what it might look like with all the panels.
Would I just be better off going with a drop ceiling?


Why not both?

A drop ceiling with drywall panels.

The fire-retardant properties of drywall make it worth considering.


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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?

On Sat, 16 Apr 2011 21:18:36 -0500, "HeyBub" wrote:

CraigT wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout
basement that if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12
access
panels for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area
18' X 27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of
"stuff" I need access to and what it might look like with all the panels.
Would I just be better off going with a drop ceiling?


Why not both?

A drop ceiling with drywall panels.


Unless you do something with the edges I don't think it'll last long. It'll
be some PITA to get in without making a major mess.

The fire-retardant properties of drywall make it worth considering.


Without tape, I'd think a fire would go right around it. Aluminum rails
aren't going to stop much of a fire.


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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?

On Apr 16, 1:39*pm, "CraigT" wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. * Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of *"stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. *Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg

http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg

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The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com


==
Having installed a drop ceiling for an entire basement, I would say
that it would be my choice. I used fiberglass drop panels and the
whole thing turned out great. There is a good choice of colors and
finishes available. One can use either the plastic or metal hangers
and rails. I chose the plastic...not only cheaper but easier to work
with. Follow the instructions...VERY IMPORTANT.
==
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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?

On Apr 17, 12:52*am, Roy wrote:
On Apr 16, 1:39*pm, "CraigT" wrote:





I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. * Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of *"stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. *Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?


http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg


http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg


__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 6047 (20110416) __________


The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.


http://www.eset.com


==
Having installed a drop ceiling for an entire basement, I would say
that it would be my choice. I used fiberglass drop panels and the
whole thing turned out great. There is a good choice of colors and
finishes available. One can use either the plastic or metal hangers
and rails. I chose the plastic...not only cheaper but easier to work
with. Follow the instructions...VERY IMPORTANT.
==- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


For the abitilty to have future access, I'd always go with the drop
ceiling, as long as you have the extra few inches to work with.
There's a lot of stuff running down there and you never know
when you will want to run an extra circuit, water line, gas line,
etc. With drop ceiling, that's easy.

I've been helping a friend who bought a 4 year old house where
the owner drywalled the basement. Already, it's limited options
of how we could add things without tearing up the drywall. And
the guy who did this job should go in the Guiness book. He
drywalled around everything. Like I think all of us here would
wall off the area that contains the furnace and water heater
and create a utility room with a door. But he drywalled around
all of that, around each duct, water pipe, vent pipe, etc. Must
have taken forever. And in other areas of the basement, there
are drops of 2 or 3" where he went around ceiling areas instead
of just dropping the whole area the 2 or 3" and making it uniform.
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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?

CraigT wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout
basement that if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12
access
panels for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area
18' X 27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of
"stuff" I need access to and what it might look like with all the panels.
Would I just be better off going with a drop ceiling?


http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg

http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg


If you do decide to do a drop ceiliing, you may want to take a look at this
style that I saw at Home Depot:

http://www.armstrong.com/resclgam/na...itemId=44650.0 .

They are Armstrong 1201 Prestige 2'x2' ceiling tiles and they look pretty
good to me -- at least not like typical ceiling tiles. They are 2'x2'
panels, but each 2'x2' panel contains four 1'x1' recessed square-pattern
tiles.

The price was $8.68 per 2'x2' tile, or $2.17 per square foot. And, the
tiles seem solid so they won't sag etc.




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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?

CraigT wrote the following:
"aemeijers" wrote in message
...

On 4/16/2011 7:34 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Hi,

CraigT wrote:

I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement
that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access
panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18'
X
27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of "stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?


Hi,
I think you answered your own question. It may cost more but I always
prefered drop ceiling. There are many choices for panels. My vote is
drop ceiling on condition you have enough head room. My basement ceiling
was 9 feet high before it was finished.

IMHO, 8.5 feet between finish slab and bottom of centerline beam, should
be a code requirement. My father always encouraged owners to spring for
the extra foot of hole and course of block, as he was walking them through
the design phase. The additional cost is relatively trivial, and it makes
finishing out the basement SO much easier, without ending up with the
usual finished basement look of a 7.5' ceiling and a head-banger running
down the middle. He also encouraged putting the furnace toward the dead
corner of the basement, behind the stairwell wall (he never did floating
stairs), to maximize the easily finishable space while still leaving a
large enough mechanical room for easy service and eventual furnace/WH
replacement. (It sucks to have to demo a basement wall to change the water
heater.)

--
aem sends....


As it stands now if I put in a drop ceiling, it'll be 7' 6" and that will be
below the beam. If I wanted to go higher and box in the beam I'd also have
to box in the large square heat vent and the large square cold air return
along with two six foot long round vent runs that snake down into that space
then go back up again. I think I'll live with a dead flat 7' 6" ceiling.

My drop ceiling in the basement is 7' 3" from the floor. There's also a
boxed in beam across the ceiling that is 6' 6" from the
floor. The only problem I have with the dropped ceiling, is that I am 6'
2" and I can't do jumping jacks. :-)
I have removed panels many times over the years to install new
electrical or cat5 wiring and even Pex tubing.
I also had to remove some panels along the edge of the outside wall to
replace a frost proof sill cock
(it didn't freeze, just broke).

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?

CraigT wrote the following:
"aemeijers" wrote in message
...

On 4/16/2011 7:34 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Hi,

CraigT wrote:

I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement
that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access
panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18'
X
27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of "stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?


Hi,
I think you answered your own question. It may cost more but I always
prefered drop ceiling. There are many choices for panels. My vote is
drop ceiling on condition you have enough head room. My basement ceiling
was 9 feet high before it was finished.

IMHO, 8.5 feet between finish slab and bottom of centerline beam, should
be a code requirement. My father always encouraged owners to spring for
the extra foot of hole and course of block, as he was walking them through
the design phase. The additional cost is relatively trivial, and it makes
finishing out the basement SO much easier, without ending up with the
usual finished basement look of a 7.5' ceiling and a head-banger running
down the middle. He also encouraged putting the furnace toward the dead
corner of the basement, behind the stairwell wall (he never did floating
stairs), to maximize the easily finishable space while still leaving a
large enough mechanical room for easy service and eventual furnace/WH
replacement. (It sucks to have to demo a basement wall to change the water
heater.)

--
aem sends....


As it stands now if I put in a drop ceiling, it'll be 7' 6" and that will be
below the beam. If I wanted to go higher and box in the beam I'd also have
to box in the large square heat vent and the large square cold air return
along with two six foot long round vent runs that snake down into that space
then go back up again. I think I'll live with a dead flat 7' 6" ceiling.

My drop ceiling in the basement is 7' 3" from the floor. There's also a
boxed in beam across the ceiling that is 6' 6" from the
floor. The only problem I have with the dropped ceiling, is that I am 6'
2" and I can't do jumping jacks. :-)
I have removed panels many times over the years to install new
electrical or cat5 wiring and even Pex tubing.
I also had to remove some panels along the edge of the outside wall to
replace a frost proof sill cock
(it didn't freeze, just broke).

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @


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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?

On Apr 16, 2:39*pm, "CraigT" wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. * Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of *"stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. *Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg

http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg

__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 6047 (20110416) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com


A drop ceiling provides the access you want and I would go with it.
When we built our new house we only finished about 2/3 of the
basement. We did sheet rock most of the finished area, but with a
little planning and consulting with our plumber, we kept nearly all of
the plumbing runs in the unfinished area. The main exception was the
guest bath which was directly beneath the kitchen and edge of the
upstairs was room. We opted to put a drop ceiling in that bath. The
only two upstairs pluming runs not accessible from the basement are
15' of hose bib run and some gas line.

So it stands to reason one of these is going to shoot craps. Hope it
ain't the gas line!

RonB
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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?

On Apr 16, 3:39*pm, "CraigT" wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. * Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of *"stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. *Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg

http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg

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The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

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WHAT ELSE IS THERE??? YOU CAN ALWAYS LEAVE A MADCAP OPEN CEILING WITH
EVERYTHING TACKED UP AND ROUTED CAREFULLY...WHAT DO I KNOW ABOUT THOSE
THINGS EVERYPOINTS BEEN COVERED, I JUST FLOAT RIGHT THROUGH ANY OF
THEM ANYWAY ;/
I HATE PLASTER BOARD THOUGH, ALL THE DUST AT ONE POINT OR ANOTHER
MAKES ME VISIBLE.
REMEMBER., WHATEVER CAN GO WRONG, WILL GO WRONG .

PATECUM
TGITM

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Default Drop ceiling or drywall ceiling?

On May 10, 10:36*pm, RonB wrote:
On Apr 16, 2:39*pm, "CraigT" wrote:



I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. * Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of *"stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. *Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?


http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg


http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg


__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 6047 (20110416) __________


The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.


http://www.eset.com


A drop ceiling provides the access you want and I would go with it.
When we built our new house we only finished about 2/3 of the
basement. *We did sheet rock most of the finished area, but with a
little planning and consulting with our plumber, we kept nearly all of
the plumbing runs in the unfinished area. *The main exception was the
guest bath which was directly beneath the kitchen and edge of the
upstairs was room. *We opted to put a drop ceiling in that bath. *The
only two upstairs pluming runs not accessible from the basement are
15' of hose bib run and some gas line.

So it stands to reason one of these is going to shoot craps. *Hope it
ain't the gas line!

RonB



Which is why if you were that concerned about such things
you would supply your home's water with Pex tubing used
in a home-run/manifold configuration with a separate line
feeding each point of use and use flexible gas tubing, neither
of which would have any connections made in a concealed and
inaccessible location...

If the piping itself fails (not at a connection between two
segments) then you will know with water or gas, the leaking
area will be wet with a water leak and you would smell the
gas leak...

Leaving your ceiling unfinished in a basement won't make
the piping any more or less likely to fail in the exposed and
totally accessible area... That is where the elements of
chance and luck factor in...

~~ Evan
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