I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of "stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?


http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg

http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg





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On Apr 16, 3:39*pm, "CraigT" wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. * Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of *"stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. *Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg

http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg


Craig:

I only see ONE thing you need an access panel installed for...

Your furnace duct vent dampers shouldn't need to be adjusted
unless you install a new furnace fan with a different performance
curve than the one in place now... (subtract 7 access panels)

The water shut off for your refrigerator ice maker and filtered
water dispenser should be relocated above the floor behind
the appliance if you are going to finish the ceiling below --
then it is accessible... (subtract 1 access panel)

Now for your electrical boxes... Those can be extended
and or moved by a qualified electrician with no problems...
You did want to have lights in the basement after you
finished the ceiling ? Or are there actually more electrical
boxes just being used for lighting ? Anyway, they are
not immovable objects just because you can't seem to
figure out how to do it... (subtract 3 access panels)

BTW: were you planning to seal the smoke detector
and its box in above the ceiling ?

Let's see, the only thing left that would be a true pain
to relocate would be the gas shut off... So that is the
only thing that truly needs an access panel...

Your furnace is only going to be replaced fairly infrequently
so if you need to re-balance the duct system after that
happens then it is worth cutting into the sheet rock ceiling
to do that, but installing 7 access panels or a drop
ceiling just in case you ever need to make an adjustment
is foolish and would require quite a bit of extra labor or
losing several inches of finished height in the room...

So it is just a matter of doing the job the right way and
moving those things which are movable, realizing what
things can be concealed and installing a panel for the
one thing which you would actually need to get at above
the ceiling...

~~ Evan

On Apr 16, 4:23*pm, Evan wrote:
On Apr 16, 3:39*pm, "CraigT" wrote:

I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. * Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of *"stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. *Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg

http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg

Craig:

I only see ONE thing you need an access panel installed for...

Your furnace duct vent dampers shouldn't need to be adjusted
unless you install a new furnace fan with a different performance
curve than the one in place now... *(subtract 7 access panels)

The water shut off for your refrigerator ice maker and filtered
water dispenser should be relocated above the floor behind
the appliance if you are going to finish the ceiling below --
then it is accessible... *(subtract 1 access panel)

Now for your electrical boxes... *Those can be extended
and or moved by a qualified electrician with no problems...
You did want to have lights in the basement after you
finished the ceiling ? *Or are there actually more electrical
boxes just being used for lighting ? *Anyway, they are
not immovable objects just because you can't seem to
figure out how to do it... *(subtract 3 access panels)

BTW: were you planning to seal the smoke detector
and its box in above the ceiling ?

Let's see, the only thing left that would be a true pain
to relocate would be the gas shut off... *So that is the
only thing that truly needs an access panel...

Your furnace is only going to be replaced fairly infrequently
so if you need to re-balance the duct system after that
happens then it is worth cutting into the sheet rock ceiling
to do that, but installing 7 access panels or a drop
ceiling just in case you ever need to make an adjustment
is foolish and would require quite a bit of extra labor or
losing several inches of finished height in the room...

So it is just a matter of doing the job the right way and
moving those things which are movable, realizing what
things can be concealed and installing a panel for the
one thing which you would actually need to get at above
the ceiling...

~~ Evan

DROP CIELING IS FAR BETTER, stuff comes up requiring basement
access.

dont seal it up, and you can get drop cielings with just a inch of
panel move space

"Evan" wrote in message
...
On Apr 16, 3:39 pm, "CraigT" wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement
that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of "stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg

http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg


Now for your electrical boxes... Those can be extended
and or moved by a qualified electrician with no problems...
You did want to have lights in the basement after you
finished the ceiling ? Or are there actually more electrical
boxes just being used for lighting ? Anyway, they are
not immovable objects just because you can't seem to
figure out how to do it... (subtract 3 access panels)

** So what psychic ability do you possess that you can determine from the
little information furnished, how easy or difficult it will be to relocate
the electrical boxes. From where I sit, I can't determine what type of
boxes, number of cables in each, length and direction each cable travels,
etc, etc. There is no question that eliminating them from their present
location is possible, but there are sure a lot of possibilities that may
make it impractical.

Hi,

CraigT wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of "stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

Hi,
I think you answered your own question. It may cost more but I always
prefered drop ceiling. There are many choices for panels. My vote is
drop ceiling on condition you have enough head room. My basement ceiling
was 9 feet high before it was finished.

On 4/16/2011 7:34 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Hi,

CraigT wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement
that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of "stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

Hi,
I think you answered your own question. It may cost more but I always
prefered drop ceiling. There are many choices for panels. My vote is
drop ceiling on condition you have enough head room. My basement ceiling
was 9 feet high before it was finished.

IMHO, 8.5 feet between finish slab and bottom of centerline beam, should
be a code requirement. My father always encouraged owners to spring for
the extra foot of hole and course of block, as he was walking them
through the design phase. The additional cost is relatively trivial,
and it makes finishing out the basement SO much easier, without ending
up with the usual finished basement look of a 7.5' ceiling and a
head-banger running down the middle. He also encouraged putting the
furnace toward the dead corner of the basement, behind the stairwell
wall (he never did floating stairs), to maximize the easily finishable
space while still leaving a large enough mechanical room for easy
service and eventual furnace/WH replacement. (It sucks to have to demo
a basement wall to change the water heater.)

--
aem sends....

"Evan" wrote in message
...
On Apr 16, 3:39 pm, "CraigT" wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement
that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18' X
27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of "stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

http://oi53.tinypic.com/2ry1y6x.jpg

http://oi55.tinypic.com/334nj2f.jpg


Craig:

I only see ONE thing you need an access panel installed for...

Your furnace duct vent dampers shouldn't need to be adjusted
unless you install a new furnace fan with a different performance
curve than the one in place now... (subtract 7 access panels)

The water shut off for your refrigerator ice maker and filtered
water dispenser should be relocated above the floor behind
the appliance if you are going to finish the ceiling below --
then it is accessible... (subtract 1 access panel)

Now for your electrical boxes... Those can be extended
and or moved by a qualified electrician with no problems...
You did want to have lights in the basement after you
finished the ceiling ? Or are there actually more electrical
boxes just being used for lighting ? Anyway, they are
not immovable objects just because you can't seem to
figure out how to do it... (subtract 3 access panels)

BTW: were you planning to seal the smoke detector
and its box in above the ceiling ?

Let's see, the only thing left that would be a true pain
to relocate would be the gas shut off... So that is the
only thing that truly needs an access panel...

Your furnace is only going to be replaced fairly infrequently
so if you need to re-balance the duct system after that
happens then it is worth cutting into the sheet rock ceiling
to do that, but installing 7 access panels or a drop
ceiling just in case you ever need to make an adjustment
is foolish and would require quite a bit of extra labor or
losing several inches of finished height in the room...

So it is just a matter of doing the job the right way and
moving those things which are movable, realizing what
things can be concealed and installing a panel for the
one thing which you would actually need to get at above
the ceiling...

~~ Evan


Moving those electrical boxes might not be as easy as you think. This is a
2400 sq. foot quad level home. Most of those boxes have four wire runs
coming from them. On two of the runs, I'll have to find the where they go
and install longer wire, unless I can break into a wall on the main floor
and install yet another (exposed) box to extend the wire. If I were to
hire it out I'm sure the cost would exceed $500 vs. the cost and look of
access panels.

I did not include the electrical boxes used for lighting, because they are
of no concern and will be converted to can lighting which have integrated
boxes.

As for the water shutoff for the fridge, if I were to move it behind the
fridge it would likely cause the fridge to move out into the room more than
the 1" of clearance my pantry door now has as it clears the front of the
fridge.

As for the dampers on the ducting, I usually rebalance the system as the
seasons change from heating to cooling, directing more airflow to the upper
floors during cooling and more to the lower floors during heating season.
It seems more efficient that way.

And, no, I wasn't going to put the smoke detector behind the access panel.



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The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
On 4/16/2011 7:34 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Hi,

CraigT wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout basement
that
if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12 access
panels
for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area 18'
X
27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of "stuff" I
need access to and what it might look like with all the panels. Would I
just be better off going with a drop ceiling?

Hi,
I think you answered your own question. It may cost more but I always
prefered drop ceiling. There are many choices for panels. My vote is
drop ceiling on condition you have enough head room. My basement ceiling
was 9 feet high before it was finished.

IMHO, 8.5 feet between finish slab and bottom of centerline beam, should
be a code requirement. My father always encouraged owners to spring for
the extra foot of hole and course of block, as he was walking them through
the design phase. The additional cost is relatively trivial, and it makes
finishing out the basement SO much easier, without ending up with the
usual finished basement look of a 7.5' ceiling and a head-banger running
down the middle. He also encouraged putting the furnace toward the dead
corner of the basement, behind the stairwell wall (he never did floating
stairs), to maximize the easily finishable space while still leaving a
large enough mechanical room for easy service and eventual furnace/WH
replacement. (It sucks to have to demo a basement wall to change the water
heater.)

--
aem sends....

As it stands now if I put in a drop ceiling, it'll be 7' 6" and that will be
below the beam. If I wanted to go higher and box in the beam I'd also have
to box in the large square heat vent and the large square cold air return
along with two six foot long round vent runs that snake down into that space
then go back up again. I think I'll live with a dead flat 7' 6" ceiling.



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The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com

CraigT wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout
basement that if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12
access
panels for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area
18' X 27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of
"stuff" I need access to and what it might look like with all the panels.
Would I just be better off going with a drop ceiling?


Why not both?

A drop ceiling with drywall panels.

The fire-retardant properties of drywall make it worth considering.

On Sat, 16 Apr 2011 21:18:36 -0500, "HeyBub" wrote:

CraigT wrote:
I know everyone wants a drywall ceiling, but I have a walkout
basement that if I were to put a drywall ceiling in I'd have to put in 12
access
panels for electrical boxes, water shutoffs, vent dampers, etc. in an area
18' X 27'. Here are couple pictures of what I've got in the way of
"stuff" I need access to and what it might look like with all the panels.
Would I just be better off going with a drop ceiling?


Why not both?

A drop ceiling with drywall panels.

Unless you do something with the edges I don't think it'll last long. It'll
be some PITA to get in without making a major mess.

The fire-retardant properties of drywall make it worth considering.

Without tape, I'd think a fire would go right around it. Aluminum rails
aren't going to stop much of a fire.