[Notat Home]

Thanks to information from this group, I had installed a gravity powered
recirculating loop in my hot water line, with a brass check valve
(flapper type) to prevent backflow. It worked very well for years, but
now the check valve appears to be stuck in the closed position,
preventing circulation, and we have to wait for hot water again.

Is there a good way to fix this valve, short of replacing it? It has a
cap on top, but apparently they put that on at the factory so tightly
that it cannot be removed. I tried some gentle tapping, then some more
vigorous tapping, but that didn't help. I thought of applying heat, but
I don't want to undo the soldering.

[[email protected][_2_]]

On May 9, 3:48*pm, Notat Home wrote:
Thanks to information from this group, I had installed a gravity powered
recirculating loop in my hot water line, with a brass check valve
(flapper type) to prevent backflow. *It worked very well for years, but
now the check valve appears to be stuck in the closed position,
preventing circulation, and we have to wait for hot water again.

Is there a good way to fix this valve, short of replacing it? *It has a
cap on top, but apparently they put that on at the factory so tightly
that it cannot be removed. *I tried some gentle tapping, then some more
vigorous tapping, but that didn't help. *I thought of applying heat, but
I don't want to undo the soldering.

If it's a cap that's screwed on, using two good size wrenches
with one backing up the valve to keep it from twisting should
work.

[hr(bob) [email protected]]

On May 9, 2:48*pm, Notat Home wrote:
Thanks to information from this group, I had installed a gravity powered
recirculating loop in my hot water line, with a brass check valve
(flapper type) to prevent backflow. *It worked very well for years, but
now the check valve appears to be stuck in the closed position,
preventing circulation, and we have to wait for hot water again.

Is there a good way to fix this valve, short of replacing it? *It has a
cap on top, but apparently they put that on at the factory so tightly
that it cannot be removed. *I tried some gentle tapping, then some more
vigorous tapping, but that didn't help. *I thought of applying heat, but
I don't want to undo the soldering.

Tap while you're applying the wrenches.

[Steve B[_10_]]

"Notat Home" wrote in message
...
Thanks to information from this group, I had installed a gravity powered
recirculating loop in my hot water line, with a brass check valve (flapper
type) to prevent backflow. It worked very well for years, but now the
check valve appears to be stuck in the closed position, preventing
circulation, and we have to wait for hot water again.

Is there a good way to fix this valve, short of replacing it? It has a
cap on top, but apparently they put that on at the factory so tightly that
it cannot be removed. I tried some gentle tapping, then some more
vigorous tapping, but that didn't help. I thought of applying heat, but I
don't want to undo the soldering.

Investigate changing it using Shark Bites. You will not have to undo the
soldering, use any heat, and the Sharkbites work well. You may have to
sweat nipples into the valve first, or buy nipples threaded on one end to
avoid any sweating on the valve. Make your cuts on the pipe very clean,
square and true. If you can get to it with a copper tubing cutter, come
down on it very very slowly, giving each tightening a few turns of the
cutter afterwards to insure it has cut to its maximum depth. Crunching too
far at one time causes deformation or crushing, and then the Shark Bites
won't work.

When you do the post mortem on the valve, you will probably see that it is
so gunged up that there is nothing other to do than to replace it.

Steve

[DD_BobK]

On May 9, 2:52*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
"Notat Home" wrote in message

...

Thanks to information from this group, I had installed a gravity powered
recirculating loop in my hot water line, with a brass check valve (flapper
type) to prevent backflow. *It worked very well for years, but now the
check valve appears to be stuck in the closed position, preventing
circulation, and we have to wait for hot water again.

Is there a good way to fix this valve, short of replacing it? *It has a
cap on top, but apparently they put that on at the factory so tightly that
it cannot be removed. *I tried some gentle tapping, then some more
vigorous tapping, but that didn't help. *I thought of applying heat, but I
don't want to undo the soldering.

Investigate changing it using Shark Bites. *You will not have to undo the
soldering, use any heat, and the Sharkbites work well. *You may have to
sweat nipples into the valve first, or buy nipples threaded on one end to
avoid any sweating on the valve. *Make your cuts on the pipe very clean,
square and true. *If you can get to it with a copper tubing cutter, come
down on it very very slowly, giving each tightening a few turns of the
cutter afterwards to insure it has cut to its maximum depth. *Crunching too
far at one time causes deformation or crushing, and then the Shark Bites
won't work.

When you do the post mortem on the valve, you will probably see that it is
so gunged up that there is nothing other to do than to replace it.

Steve

OP-

Remove the check valve as suggested by Steve B. Soak the check valve
& tube assembly in CLR (or equal).
I've cleaned malfunctioning check valves like this before.

cheers
Bob

[Steve B[_10_]]

I wrote:

Make your cuts on the pipe very clean,
square and true. If you can get to it with a copper tubing cutter, come
down on it very very slowly, giving each tightening a few turns of the
cutter afterwards to insure it has cut to its maximum depth. Crunching too
far at one time causes deformation or crushing, and then the Shark Bites
won't work.
Steve

Please let me rewrite this. When using a tubing cutter, of the kind that
has a wheel you tighten to make the blade come in contact with the tubing, I
meant to write COME DOWN VERY SLOWLY ON THE WHEEL THAT MAKES THE CUTTER
BLADE ADVANCE. Get the cutter on the tubing, and tighten it only tight
enough to make contact. Then tighten it about half a turn and swing the
cutter around about three times in a three sixty. Avoid the impulse to give
it any back and forth action, but make complete circles. When you feel the
resistance fade, the blade has cut as deep as it is going to. Then tighten
up the cutter again just to snug, and repeat with three or four full turns,
feeling for when it has cut its maximum depth. Repeat this until it cuts,
avoiding the impulse to increase the number of turns on the cutting blade
tightener when you think it is about to finish cutting. LET IT CUT UNTIL
FINISHED, DOING JUST A LITTLE AT A TIME. Whether you are using Shark bites,
compression fittings, sweating, whatever, you will end up with a piece of
pipe that will fit better, and need minimal inside reaming or cleaning. Do
it slowly, just a little at a time.

There, that's better.

Steve

[Notat Home]

Steve B wrote:
I wrote:

Make your cuts on the pipe very clean,
square and true. If you can get to it with a copper tubing cutter, come
down on it very very slowly, giving each tightening a few turns of the
cutter afterwards to insure it has cut to its maximum depth. Crunching too
far at one time causes deformation or crushing, and then the Shark Bites
won't work.
Steve

Please let me rewrite this. When using a tubing cutter, of the kind that
has a wheel you tighten to make the blade come in contact with the tubing, I
meant to write COME DOWN VERY SLOWLY ON THE WHEEL THAT MAKES THE CUTTER
BLADE ADVANCE. Get the cutter on the tubing, and tighten it only tight
enough to make contact. Then tighten it about half a turn and swing the
cutter around about three times in a three sixty. Avoid the impulse to give
it any back and forth action, but make complete circles. When you feel the
resistance fade, the blade has cut as deep as it is going to. Then tighten
up the cutter again just to snug, and repeat with three or four full turns,
feeling for when it has cut its maximum depth. Repeat this until it cuts,
avoiding the impulse to increase the number of turns on the cutting blade
tightener when you think it is about to finish cutting. LET IT CUT UNTIL
FINISHED, DOING JUST A LITTLE AT A TIME. Whether you are using Shark bites,
compression fittings, sweating, whatever, you will end up with a piece of
pipe that will fit better, and need minimal inside reaming or cleaning. Do
it slowly, just a little at a time.

There, that's better.

Steve


Shark bites is a new term to me. What are they?

[Steve B[_10_]]

"Notat Home" wrote

Shark bites is a new term to me. What are they?

It is a brand name for slip on fittings that work like a quick connect on an
air hose. I have used them, particularly for a dangerous hard to reach
place for sweating in a new piece of burst pipe. They work, and are a cinch
to take off. If you can measure and cut straight, they are great. They are
spendy, and best for use where it is really hard to get to, or there's a
fire hazard. So far no one here has reported a failure that I know of?

Anyone?

Steve

[Stormin Mormon]

Ask in several years when the little bites have chance to
corrode off.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Steve B" wrote in message
...

It is a brand name for slip on fittings that work like a
quick connect on an
air hose. I have used them, particularly for a dangerous
hard to reach
place for sweating in a new piece of burst pipe. They work,
and are a cinch
to take off. If you can measure and cut straight, they are
great. They are
spendy, and best for use where it is really hard to get to,
or there's a
fire hazard. So far no one here has reported a failure that
I know of?

Anyone?

Steve

[Stormin Mormon]

Totally no idea. And if someone told me, I would not know
how to process the data. Some things like thalidomide, grey
Tylenol, and that grey water tubing, didn't work after many
years. Agent orange, asbestos, and that stuff that was
supposed to be the cure all for morphine addiction. You
know, Heroin.

Being middle age (I'll live to 100? Really?) I've seen
enough whiz bang ideas that didn't last many years.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 May 2011 17:21:07 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Ask in several years when the little bites have chance to
corrode off.

What grade stainless steel are those "little bites"?

[harry]

On May 11, 3:30*am, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 10 May 2011 18:14:35 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

wrote:
Totally no idea. And if someone told me, I would not know
how to process the data.

I've been telling you that for years. Will you ever catch up?

Top Posting sucks !!

He's just attention seeking. A Mormon thing.