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leaking p-trap joint



 
 
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  #1  
Old January 24th 11, 04:44 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 627
Default leaking p-trap joint

The P-trap under my kitchen sink disintegrated the day after
Christmas. Simple DIY repair. No big deal.

I replaced the metal trap with a PVC trap, figuring it wouldn't rust
out or leak ever again...

I can't get the joint where the P-trap enters the copper drain stack
to stop leaking. It's leaking out around the sealing washer, NOT the
threads.

Tightened the nut. Still drips.

Replaced the PVC nut with a metal nut and rubber washer. Still drips.

Do I need to go back to a metal trap?
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  #2  
Old January 24th 11, 05:31 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 1,582
Default leaking p-trap joint

On Jan 24, 11:44*am, wrote:
The P-trap under my kitchen sink disintegrated the day after
Christmas. Simple DIY repair. No big deal.

I replaced the metal trap with a PVC trap, figuring it wouldn't rust
out or leak ever again...

I can't get the joint where the P-trap enters the copper drain stack
to stop leaking. It's leaking out around the sealing washer, NOT the
threads.

Tightened the nut. Still drips.

Replaced the PVC nut with a metal nut and rubber washer. Still drips.

Do I need to go back to a metal trap?


The washer is the seal not the threads so that is suppose dotbe where
it leaks. You really have a copper drain? That's pretty unusual.

I'd check the condition of the surfaces where the gasket goes. I'm
guessing that one of the surfaces is patr of the original plumbing.
You may need to clean it up a bit with some sand paper.
  #3  
Old January 24th 11, 05:44 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 627
Default leaking p-trap joint

On Jan 24, 12:31*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
The washer is the seal not the threads so that is suppose dotbe where
it leaks. *You really have a copper drain? *That's pretty unusual.

I'd check the condition of the surfaces where the gasket goes. *I'm
guessing that one of the surfaces is patr of the original plumbing.
You may need to clean it up a bit with some sand paper.


Yes, the washer is definitely not sealing. Water's coming out from
between the washer and PVC pipe, no matter how much I tighten it.

It's definitely a soldered COPPER drain stack. The guy that built this
house certainly had some odd preferences.
  #4  
Old January 24th 11, 05:58 PM posted to alt.home.repair
Joe
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Posts: 2,842
Default leaking p-trap joint

On Jan 24, 11:44*am, wrote:

snip



It's definitely a soldered COPPER drain stack. The guy that built this
house certainly had some odd preferences.


Not odd at all. That was code back in the 1950's and earlier.

Consider making the copper pipe round again by using a common tailpipe
expander such as auto shops use. Odds are it is oval right now and
further tightening just isn't going to work. You may have to cut off
the oval section and solder in a coupling and new round section. If
you do, try to find some Type K heavy wall for replacement. Good luck.

Joe
  #5  
Old January 24th 11, 06:10 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 561
Default leaking p-trap joint

On Jan 24, 11:44*am, wrote:
The P-trap under my kitchen sink disintegrated the day after
Christmas. Simple DIY repair. No big deal.

I replaced the metal trap with a PVC trap, figuring it wouldn't rust
out or leak ever again...

I can't get the joint where the P-trap enters the copper drain stack
to stop leaking. It's leaking out around the sealing washer, NOT the
threads.

Tightened the nut. Still drips.

Replaced the PVC nut with a metal nut and rubber washer. Still drips.

Do I need to go back to a metal trap?


Probably the old nut you took off had a built-in washer. I too have
copper drains and the nut that goes on the end has a thin piece built-
in that hits the tapered portion inside the drain pipe and gets forced
against the inserted pipe. If the fitting on the inside end of your
copper drain is cone shaped (gets smaller as goes in) the plastic
tapered washers and the flat rubber washers are going to be tough to
get a seal. You may need to dig through the trash and find the old
nut. They still sell those fittings at the Borg and any plumbing
supply house.

I've on occasion had to trim the 'seam' on the PVC pipes with a
utilitly knife. Sometimes they stick out just enought to prevent the
washer from sealing against the side of the pipe.

There is also a pipe dope specifically made for PVC pipes that helps
them slide easier and seal better. If you go this route make sure the
stuff you get is OK for use with PVC.
  #6  
Old January 24th 11, 07:34 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 627
Default leaking p-trap joint

On Jan 24, 1:10*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
Probably the old nut you took off had a built-in washer. *I too have
copper drains and the nut that goes on the end has a thin piece built-
in that hits the tapered portion inside the drain pipe and gets forced
against the inserted pipe. *If the fitting on the inside end of your
copper drain is cone shaped (gets smaller as goes in) the plastic
tapered washers and the flat rubber washers are going to be tough to
get a seal. *You may need to dig through the trash and find the old
nut. *


Ah, that may be the problem...

Unfortunately, the nut was seized on to the copper fitting, I couldn't
move it with an 18" pipe wrench, so I had to split it off. The nut is
no more.
  #8  
Old January 24th 11, 10:28 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 10,942
Default leaking p-trap joint

On 24 Jan 2011 21:43:07 GMT, ddl@danlan.*com (Dan Lanciani) wrote:

In article , writes:
| On Jan 24, 1:10=A0pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
| Probably the old nut you took off had a built-in washer. =A0I too have
| copper drains and the nut that goes on the end has a thin piece built-
| in that hits the tapered portion inside the drain pipe and gets forced
| against the inserted pipe. =A0If the fitting on the inside end of your
| copper drain is cone shaped (gets smaller as goes in) the plastic
| tapered washers and the flat rubber washers are going to be tough to
| get a seal. =A0You may need to dig through the trash and find the old
| nut. =A0
|
| Ah, that may be the problem...
|
| Unfortunately, the nut was seized on to the copper fitting, I couldn't
| move it with an 18" pipe wrench, so I had to split it off. The nut is
| no more.

You could cut off the fitting and use a Fernco coupler. They make a special
one just for copper to tubular: the 3010-150. Or you could solder on a new
Marvel adapter. I was surprised to see that Home Depot actually carries
these in bronze. You might even be able to use the nut from one.

Dan Lanciani
ddl@danlan.*com

You need to remeber these "joints" are just REAL CRAPPY compression
fittings. If the copper pipe is nor perfectly round and smooth, and if
it is not VERY close to the same diameter as the plastic pipe the
coupling is made for, it WILL leak. I believe there is a special
coupling made to connect to copper - and there is definitely a
copper/brass fitting made to transition to ABS - which needs to be
soldered on. The "fernco" is also an option, of course, but it will
alwoys look like a "band-aid" solution.
 




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