leaking p-trap joint
 

The P-trap under my kitchen sink disintegrated the day after
Christmas. Simple DIY repair. No big deal.

I replaced the metal trap with a PVC trap, figuring it wouldn't rust
out or leak ever again...

I can't get the joint where the P-trap enters the copper drain stack
to stop leaking. It's leaking out around the sealing washer, NOT the
threads.

Tightened the nut. Still drips.

Replaced the PVC nut with a metal nut and rubber washer. Still drips.

Do I need to go back to a metal trap?

leaking p-trap joint
 

On Jan 24, 11:44*am, wrote:
The P-trap under my kitchen sink disintegrated the day after
Christmas. Simple DIY repair. No big deal.

I replaced the metal trap with a PVC trap, figuring it wouldn't rust
out or leak ever again...

I can't get the joint where the P-trap enters the copper drain stack
to stop leaking. It's leaking out around the sealing washer, NOT the
threads.

Tightened the nut. Still drips.

Replaced the PVC nut with a metal nut and rubber washer. Still drips.

Do I need to go back to a metal trap?

The washer is the seal not the threads so that is suppose dotbe where
it leaks. You really have a copper drain? That's pretty unusual.

I'd check the condition of the surfaces where the gasket goes. I'm
guessing that one of the surfaces is patr of the original plumbing.
You may need to clean it up a bit with some sand paper.

leaking p-trap joint
 

On Jan 24, 12:31*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
The washer is the seal not the threads so that is suppose dotbe where
it leaks. *You really have a copper drain? *That's pretty unusual.

I'd check the condition of the surfaces where the gasket goes. *I'm
guessing that one of the surfaces is patr of the original plumbing.
You may need to clean it up a bit with some sand paper.

Yes, the washer is definitely not sealing. Water's coming out from
between the washer and PVC pipe, no matter how much I tighten it.

It's definitely a soldered COPPER drain stack. The guy that built this
house certainly had some odd preferences.

leaking p-trap joint
 

On Jan 24, 11:44*am, wrote:

snip


It's definitely a soldered COPPER drain stack. The guy that built this
house certainly had some odd preferences.

Not odd at all. That was code back in the 1950's and earlier.

Consider making the copper pipe round again by using a common tailpipe
expander such as auto shops use. Odds are it is oval right now and
further tightening just isn't going to work. You may have to cut off
the oval section and solder in a coupling and new round section. If
you do, try to find some Type K heavy wall for replacement. Good luck.

Joe

leaking p-trap joint
 

On Jan 24, 11:44*am, wrote:
The P-trap under my kitchen sink disintegrated the day after
Christmas. Simple DIY repair. No big deal.

I replaced the metal trap with a PVC trap, figuring it wouldn't rust
out or leak ever again...

I can't get the joint where the P-trap enters the copper drain stack
to stop leaking. It's leaking out around the sealing washer, NOT the
threads.

Tightened the nut. Still drips.

Replaced the PVC nut with a metal nut and rubber washer. Still drips.

Do I need to go back to a metal trap?

Probably the old nut you took off had a built-in washer. I too have
copper drains and the nut that goes on the end has a thin piece built-
in that hits the tapered portion inside the drain pipe and gets forced
against the inserted pipe. If the fitting on the inside end of your
copper drain is cone shaped (gets smaller as goes in) the plastic
tapered washers and the flat rubber washers are going to be tough to
get a seal. You may need to dig through the trash and find the old
nut. They still sell those fittings at the Borg and any plumbing
supply house.

I've on occasion had to trim the 'seam' on the PVC pipes with a
utilitly knife. Sometimes they stick out just enought to prevent the
washer from sealing against the side of the pipe.

There is also a pipe dope specifically made for PVC pipes that helps
them slide easier and seal better. If you go this route make sure the
stuff you get is OK for use with PVC.

leaking p-trap joint
 

On Jan 24, 1:10*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
Probably the old nut you took off had a built-in washer. *I too have
copper drains and the nut that goes on the end has a thin piece built-
in that hits the tapered portion inside the drain pipe and gets forced
against the inserted pipe. *If the fitting on the inside end of your
copper drain is cone shaped (gets smaller as goes in) the plastic
tapered washers and the flat rubber washers are going to be tough to
get a seal. *You may need to dig through the trash and find the old
nut. *

Ah, that may be the problem...

Unfortunately, the nut was seized on to the copper fitting, I couldn't
move it with an 18" pipe wrench, so I had to split it off. The nut is
no more.

leaking p-trap joint
 

In article , writes:
| On Jan 24, 1:10=A0pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
| Probably the old nut you took off had a built-in washer. =A0I too have
| copper drains and the nut that goes on the end has a thin piece built-
| in that hits the tapered portion inside the drain pipe and gets forced
| against the inserted pipe. =A0If the fitting on the inside end of your
| copper drain is cone shaped (gets smaller as goes in) the plastic
| tapered washers and the flat rubber washers are going to be tough to
| get a seal. =A0You may need to dig through the trash and find the old
| nut. =A0
|
| Ah, that may be the problem...
|
| Unfortunately, the nut was seized on to the copper fitting, I couldn't
| move it with an 18" pipe wrench, so I had to split it off. The nut is
| no more.

You could cut off the fitting and use a Fernco coupler. They make a special
one just for copper to tubular: the 3010-150. Or you could solder on a new
Marvel adapter. I was surprised to see that Home Depot actually carries
these in bronze. You might even be able to use the nut from one.

Dan Lanciani
ddl@danlan.*com

leaking p-trap joint
 

On 24 Jan 2011 21:43:07 GMT, ddl@danlan.*com (Dan Lanciani) wrote:

In article , writes:
| On Jan 24, 1:10=A0pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
| Probably the old nut you took off had a built-in washer. =A0I too have
| copper drains and the nut that goes on the end has a thin piece built-
| in that hits the tapered portion inside the drain pipe and gets forced
| against the inserted pipe. =A0If the fitting on the inside end of your
| copper drain is cone shaped (gets smaller as goes in) the plastic
| tapered washers and the flat rubber washers are going to be tough to
| get a seal. =A0You may need to dig through the trash and find the old
| nut. =A0
|
| Ah, that may be the problem...
|
| Unfortunately, the nut was seized on to the copper fitting, I couldn't
| move it with an 18" pipe wrench, so I had to split it off. The nut is
| no more.

You could cut off the fitting and use a Fernco coupler. They make a special
one just for copper to tubular: the 3010-150. Or you could solder on a new
Marvel adapter. I was surprised to see that Home Depot actually carries
these in bronze. You might even be able to use the nut from one.

Dan Lanciani
ddl@danlan.*com
You need to remeber these "joints" are just REAL CRAPPY compression
fittings. If the copper pipe is nor perfectly round and smooth, and if
it is not VERY close to the same diameter as the plastic pipe the
coupling is made for, it WILL leak. I believe there is a special
coupling made to connect to copper - and there is definitely a
copper/brass fitting made to transition to ABS - which needs to be
soldered on. The "fernco" is also an option, of course, but it will
alwoys look like a "band-aid" solution.

leaking p-trap joint
 

On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 17:28:38 -0500, wrote:

The "fernco" is also an option, of course, but it will
alwoys look like a "band-aid" solution.

Would something like this replace the band-aid look?

pic:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/d7/d74cb048-d70f-4f75-b631-f8b21b845a5a_400.jpg

leaking p-trap joint
 

Oren wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 17:28:38 -0500, wrote:

The "fernco" is also an option, of course, but it will
alwoys look like a "band-aid" solution.

Would something like this replace the band-aid look?

pic:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/d7/d74cb048-d70f-4f75-b631-f8b21b845a5a_400.jpg

Hi,
I wonder if the pipe joint(s) are stressed due to something moved or
moving, If this the case it';; spring a leak again. Try to find why
it is leaking.

leaking p-trap joint
 

On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 08:44:17 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

Replaced the PVC nut with a metal nut and rubber washer. Still drips.


Were the former washers also rubber?

Do I need to go back to a metal trap?

Were those washers white vinyl (conical shape?)?

Another thing... check for close alignment. Some little bit of bind
might just cause a leak...

leaking p-trap joint
 

On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 16:03:34 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 17:28:38 -0500, wrote:

The "fernco" is also an option, of course, but it will
alwoys look like a "band-aid" solution.

Would something like this replace the band-aid look?

pic:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/d7/d74cb048-d70f-4f75-b631-f8b21b845a5a_400.jpg
I've used rubber traps in the past - they work, they don't break if
you bump them, and they scream "ugh!!", to me. They DO need to be the
right size, and it is still a good idea to have a good clean sealing
surface.
One of the rubber traps I installed always had a minor leak - untill I
got around to replacing it with a proper ABS trap, properly glued
together with the correct adapter fittings.

leaking p-trap joint
 

On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 08:44:17 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

The P-trap under my kitchen sink disintegrated the day after
Christmas. Simple DIY repair. No big deal.

I replaced the metal trap with a PVC trap, figuring it wouldn't rust
out or leak ever again...

I can't get the joint where the P-trap enters the copper drain stack
to stop leaking. It's leaking out around the sealing washer, NOT the
threads.

Tightened the nut. Still drips.

Replaced the PVC nut with a metal nut and rubber washer. Still drips.

Do I need to go back to a metal trap?

If you get a good firm fit with the nut, I'd just dope it up where
it's leaking.
There's no pressure, and any waterproof dope that dries flexible will
work.
I used to use something called Liquid Rubber for troublesome drains,
and it always worked easily. Came in a small tube that lasted
forever. Don't see it around now. Probably butyl rubber.
White silicone bathtub caulk works too but it isn't as sticky as the
Liquid Rubber so you need a wider bead, and you should let it cure
before using the drain.

Some of these PVC fittings aren't formed to fit older metal fittings
well, or even other non-matched PVC fittings.
The washers are different thickness and shape depending on what pack
you grab, etc.
Flanges are different thicknesses too.
Just did my concrete basement tub and the PVC tailpiece flange and the
washer combined were way too thick for the nut to grab enough threads,
so I had to go pick up a metal tailpiece.
Didn't have to use dope, but I wouldn't have hesitated.

--Vic

leaking p-trap joint
 

On Jan 24, 7:34*pm, wrote:
On Jan 24, 1:10*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:

Probably the old nut you took off had a built-in washer. *I too have
copper drains and the nut that goes on the end has a thin piece built-
in that hits the tapered portion inside the drain pipe and gets forced
against the inserted pipe. *If the fitting on the inside end of your
copper drain is cone shaped (gets smaller as goes in) the plastic
tapered washers and the flat rubber washers are going to be tough to
get a seal. *You may need to dig through the trash and find the old
nut. *

Ah, that may be the problem...

Unfortunately, the nut was seized on to the copper fitting, I couldn't
move it with an 18" pipe wrench, so I had to split it off. The nut is
no more.

If you tried and failed with so much force, the copper pipe is
probably distorted and will not seal with the "rubber" seal any more.
I would glue on a PVC connector to the copper pipe with one of the
resin glues. You will need a thorough clean up on the pipe.

leaking p-trap joint
 

On Jan 24, 7:11*pm, Tony Hwang wrote:
Oren wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 17:28:38 -0500, wrote:

The "fernco" is also an option, of course, but it will
alwoys look like a "band-aid" solution.

Would something like this replace the band-aid look?

pic:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/d7/d74cb048-d70f-4....

Hi,
I wonder if the pipe joint(s) are stressed due to something moved or
moving, If this the case it';; spring a leak again. Try to find why
it is leaking.

Thanks guys, but my problem isn't with the trap itself.

It's where the trap enters the drain stack in the wall.

The leg of the P-trap enters the copper drain stack through a tee
fitting. A compression nut threads on the copper tee fitting to seal
the two together.

Originally, I had this sealed with the vinyl washer and plastic nut
threaded on to the copper tee. Leaked a steady stream, no matter how
tight I made it.

The metal nut with soft rubber washer is better, but it still drips.

leaking p-trap joint
 

On Jan 25, 11:41*am, wrote:
On Jan 24, 7:11*pm, Tony Hwang wrote:





Oren wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 17:28:38 -0500, wrote:

The "fernco" is also an option, of course, but it will
alwoys look like a "band-aid" solution.

Would something like this replace the band-aid look?

pic:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/d7/d74cb048-d70f-4....

Hi,
I wonder if the pipe joint(s) are stressed due to something moved or
moving, If this the case it';; spring a leak again. Try to find why
it is leaking.

Thanks guys, but my problem isn't with the trap itself.

It's where the trap enters the drain stack in the wall.

The leg of the P-trap enters the copper drain stack through a tee
fitting. A compression nut threads on the copper tee fitting to seal
the two together.

Originally, I had this sealed with the vinyl washer and plastic nut
threaded on to the copper tee. Leaked a steady stream, no matter how
tight I made it.

The metal nut with soft rubber washer is better, but it still drips.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If I understand you the plastic pipe goes inside the copper and the
rubber is being compressed into the copper and against the plastic
pipe? I would install just that joint and test how firm that rubber
washer is being compressed by trying to pull on the plastic piece.

If it pulls out easily then the rubber is not beeing compressed enough
and you could try to find something to put behind the rubber so that
it gets compressed further.

If it is hard to pull out then surface irregularities may be your
problem. Make sure the copper is smooth and clean where the rubber
goes up against it. Same for the plastic.

As a last resort you could coat the rubber washer with some pipe dope
before installing. Let it sit a day before trying.

leaking p-trap joint
 

wrote in
:

On Jan 24, 7:11*pm, Tony Hwang wrote:
Oren wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 17:28:38 -0500, wrote:

The "fernco" is also an option, of course, but it will
alwoys look like a "band-aid" solution.

Would something like this replace the band-aid look?

pic:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...d74cb048-d70f-
4..
.

Hi,
I wonder if the pipe joint(s) are stressed due to something moved or
moving, If this the case it';; spring a leak again. Try to find why
it is leaking.

Thanks guys, but my problem isn't with the trap itself.

It's where the trap enters the drain stack in the wall.

The leg of the P-trap enters the copper drain stack through a tee
fitting. A compression nut threads on the copper tee fitting to seal
the two together.

Originally, I had this sealed with the vinyl washer and plastic nut
threaded on to the copper tee. Leaked a steady stream, no matter how
tight I made it.

The metal nut with soft rubber washer is better, but it still drips.

Roofing cement works. Trust me.