[Ray]

We have brown metal downspouts, but these feed into connectors that come
about two feet off the ground. These connectors are some kind of heavy
plastic-type material and are white.

Dumb question, but you never know these days when you might do something
wrong:

If I prime these pipes thoroughly, can I paint them brown?

[JoeSpareBedroom[_3_]]

"Ray" wrote in message
...
We have brown metal downspouts, but these feed into connectors that come
about two feet off the ground. These connectors are some kind of heavy
plastic-type material and are white.

Dumb question, but you never know these days when you might do something
wrong:

If I prime these pipes thoroughly, can I paint them brown?


Of course. If you really want to be picky about it, remove them, scrub them,
and get the appropriate Rustoleum products (primer & paint). If they're
riveted in place, this gives you a good reason to add a rivet gun to your
tool collection, if you don't already have one. Fancy breather mask, too,
since you may want to do the spray painting in the garage.

[zek]

On Jan 11, 11:20*am, "Ray" wrote:
We have brown metal downspouts, but these feed into connectors that come
about two feet off the ground. These connectors are some kind of heavy
plastic-type material and are white.

Dumb question, but you never know these days when you might do something
wrong:

If I prime these pipes thoroughly, can I paint them brown?

Sand, clean, paint. Should work well. A primer would be best.
You could probably use most any type of paint.

NEVER use citrus degreasers. They leave oil.

[Red Green]

"Ray" wrote in news:Rq%Wo.10241$111.5759
@newsfe12.iad:

We have brown metal downspouts, but these feed into connectors that come
about two feet off the ground. These connectors are some kind of heavy
plastic-type material and are white.

Dumb question, but you never know these days when you might do something
wrong:

If I prime these pipes thoroughly, can I paint them brown?


Your post implies you want to paint the downspouts which are already brown.
Sounds like what you want to paint brown is the white plastic pipe it feeds
to. That's just white PVC drain I'm guessing. I've painted indoor ones many
times.

Can't say if it will flake off over time. Clean them good with sandpaper.
Use a good primer. Oil base better I would GUESS. If you had some
"bonding" primer laying around, that would be awesome. Stuff ain't cheap
15-20/qt. Good for wood and metal. Don't know about PVC.

[hr(bob) [email protected]]

On Jan 11, 12:58*pm, Red Green wrote:
"Ray" wrote in news:Rq%Wo.10241$111.5759
@newsfe12.iad:

We have brown metal downspouts, but these feed into connectors that come
about two feet off the ground. These connectors are some kind of heavy
plastic-type material and are white.

Dumb question, but you never know these days when you might do something
wrong:

If I prime these pipes thoroughly, can I paint them brown?

Your post implies you want to paint the downspouts which are already brown.

[willshak]

Ray wrote the following:
We have brown metal downspouts, but these feed into connectors that
come about two feet off the ground. These connectors are some kind of
heavy plastic-type material and are white.

Dumb question, but you never know these days when you might do
something wrong:

If I prime these pipes thoroughly, can I paint them brown?


Yep. I have white downspouts and I used pieces of green plastic sewer
pipes going down into the ground to divert the rainwater away from the
house.
I painted those pipes white with Rustoleum plastic spray paint.
I

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

[David Nebenzahl]

On 1/11/2011 11:47 AM hr(bob) spake thus:

On Jan 11, 12:58 pm, Red Green wrote:

"Ray" wrote in
news:Rq%Wo.10241$111.5759 @newsfe12.iad:

We have brown metal downspouts, but these feed into connectors
that come about two feet off the ground. These connectors are
some kind of heavy plastic-type material and are white.

Dumb question, but you never know these days when you might do
something wrong:

If I prime these pipes thoroughly, can I paint them brown?

Your post implies you want to paint the downspouts which are
already brown. Sounds like what you want to paint brown is the
white plastic pipe it feeds to. That's just white PVC drain I'm
guessing. I've painted indoor ones many times.

Can't say if it will flake off over time. Clean them good with
sandpaper. Use a good primer. Oil base better I would GUESS. If you
had some "bonding" primer laying around, that would be awesome.
Stuff ain't cheap 15-20/qt. Good for wood and metal. Don't know
about PVC.

Use a paint meant for plastic, like the spray paint for refinisheing
plastic lawn/garden chairs,

Absolutely no need for that.

Use any good ordinary oil-based primer. Not going to hurt any kind of
plastic used for that kind of stuff (ABS, PVC, etc.).


--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:

To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.

[WW[_2_]]

"Ray" wrote in message
...
We have brown metal downspouts, but these feed into connectors that come
about two feet off the ground. These connectors are some kind of heavy
plastic-type material and are white.

Dumb question, but you never know these days when you might do something
wrong:

If I prime these pipes thoroughly, can I paint them brown?

I use Krylon plastic paint and no primer. Clean pipe first. WW

[hr(bob) [email protected]]

On Jan 11, 4:17*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 1/11/2011 11:47 AM hr(bob) spake thus:





On Jan 11, 12:58 pm, Red Green wrote:

"Ray" wrote in
news:Rq%Wo.10241$111.5759 @newsfe12.iad:

We have brown metal downspouts, but these feed into connectors
that come about two feet off the ground. These connectors are
some kind of heavy plastic-type material and are white.

Dumb question, but you never know these days when you might do
something wrong:

If I prime these pipes thoroughly, can I paint them brown?

Your post implies you want to paint the downspouts which are
already brown. Sounds like what you want to paint brown is the
white plastic pipe it feeds to. That's just white PVC drain I'm
guessing. I've painted indoor ones many times.

Can't say if it will flake off over time. Clean them good with
sandpaper. Use a good primer. Oil base better I would GUESS. If you
had some "bonding" primer laying around, that would be awesome.
Stuff ain't cheap 15-20/qt. Good for wood and metal. Don't know
about PVC.

Use a paint meant for plastic, like the spray paint for refinisheing
plastic lawn/garden chairs,

Absolutely no need for that.

Use any good ordinary oil-based primer. Not going to hurt any kind of
plastic used for that kind of stuff (ABS, PVC, etc.).

--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:

* *To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
* *who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
* *that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The paint for use on plastic has better adherence characteristics and
also seems to expand better with the temperature expansion of plastic
which is quite high.

[RicodJour]

On Jan 11, 5:17*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 1/11/2011 11:47 AM hr(bob) spake thus:

Use a paint meant for plastic, like the spray paint for refinisheing
plastic lawn/garden chairs,

Absolutely no need for that.

Why is there absolutely no need to use a paint that is formulated to
go on a particular material?

Use any good ordinary oil-based primer. Not going to hurt any kind of
plastic used for that kind of stuff (ABS, PVC, etc.).

It's not a question about hurting the plastic, it's about bonding to
the plastic so the OP won't be doing it again in a couple of years.
Why in the world would you want to double the amount of time...excuse
me, double the amount of _application_ time (probably 10x or 20x the
total time if you include drying time for typical paints like you're
suggesting) instead of using a paint meant for plastic?

I'm guessing you've never used paints meant for plastics. Fusion by
Krylon works great, comes in a spray can which eliminates cleanup and
makes painting non-planar objects far easier, and dries in fifteen
minutes. It also bonds well to glass and ceramic tile - let's see a
"good ordinary oil-based primer" do that.

The OP should buy a couple of cans, spend half an hour spraying and
use the rest of the time writing a post about why using a one-step
paint was so much simpler than mucking about with different paints and
cleanup.

R

[Jules Richardson]

On Tue, 11 Jan 2011 18:58:03 +0000, Red Green wrote:
Can't say if it will flake off over time.

I did our septic tank caps a year or so ago, and they're flaking quite
badly. I just gave those a quick spray (with a view to doing something
better if needed) and figured I'd see how it went; the answer seems to be
"not well" :-)

Like you say, some surface prep - light sanding and then primer - is
probably a good idea.

cheers

Jules

[Red Green]

RicodJour wrote in news:1fecf427-e8b2-4b37-
:

On Jan 11, 5:17*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 1/11/2011 11:47 AM hr(bob) spake thus:

Use a paint meant for plastic, like the spray paint for refinisheing
plastic lawn/garden chairs,

Absolutely no need for that.

Why is there absolutely no need to use a paint that is formulated to
go on a particular material?

Use any good ordinary oil-based primer. Not going to hurt any kind of
plastic used for that kind of stuff (ABS, PVC, etc.).

It's not a question about hurting the plastic, it's about bonding to
the plastic so the OP won't be doing it again in a couple of years.
Why in the world would you want to double the amount of time...excuse
me, double the amount of _application_ time (probably 10x or 20x the
total time if you include drying time for typical paints like you're
suggesting) instead of using a paint meant for plastic?

I'm guessing you've never used paints meant for plastics. Fusion by
Krylon works great, comes in a spray can which eliminates cleanup and
makes painting non-planar objects far easier, and dries in fifteen
minutes. It also bonds well to glass and ceramic tile - let's see a
"good ordinary oil-based primer" do that.

The OP should buy a couple of cans, spend half an hour spraying and
use the rest of the time writing a post about why using a one-step
paint was so much simpler than mucking about with different paints and
cleanup.

R

You replied to another but points taken. As I said, never painted PVC
that was outdoors for use.

Also,

I'm guessing you've never used paints meant for plastics.

Ding ding ding.

[RicodJour]

On Jan 12, 2:17*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 1/11/2011 9:58 PM RicodJour spake thus:
On Jan 11, 5:17 pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 1/11/2011 11:47 AM hr(bob) spake thus:

Use a paint meant for plastic, like the spray paint for
refinisheing plastic lawn/garden chairs,

Absolutely no need for that.

Why is there absolutely no need to use a paint that is formulated to
go on a particular material?

Because it's overkill? Because other ordinary products work just as well?

Using the correct paint is overkill - interesting.

Use any good ordinary oil-based primer. Not going to hurt any kind of
plastic used for that kind of stuff (ABS, PVC, etc.).

It's not a question about hurting the plastic, it's about bonding to
the plastic so the OP won't be doing it again in a couple of years.
Why in the world would you want to double the amount of time...excuse
me, double the amount of _application_ time (probably 10x or 20x *the
total time if you include drying time for typical paints like you're
suggesting) instead of using a paint meant for plastic?

I don't see excessive application time as a problem he in fact, my
method, applying oil-based primer with a *brush*, is probably faster.

Excessive to me means unnecessary. I don't recall the OP asking how
he could paint slowly. He'll stick a piece of cardboard behind the
pipe and spray away. Two coats in half an hour and he's done. It's
also extremely unlikely that the OP just happens to have a _dark
brown_ paint on hand, right? He'll have to get a quart tinted and
even at the Borg that's as much as a can or two of spray paint. And
he still has to buy the primer.

I find it odd that you think that one coat of oil-primer (minimum
drying time for oil primers is usually an hour (unless you've given up
on the idea that the OP has the correct oil primer on hand and buys
some speedy dry stuff (which make it not ordinary))) and two coats of
paint (how fast do your theoretical paints dry BTW?) would be faster
than spraying two coats of 15 minute and dry paint.

Now I'll concede that the purpose-made plastic paint may be better for
painting plastic. However, being a spray can, this requires either
disassembling the downspout, or a lot of masking off to avoid painting
what you don't want painted.

A funny thing about a spray can, or any sprayer for that matter - it
only takes one hand. He'll stick a piece of cardboard behind the pipe
and hold another one in his hand to prevent overspray. He wouldn't be
spraying with a compressor.

I'm guessing you've never used paints meant for plastics.

Not true at all. In my modelmaking mode I use paints formulated for
painting plastic (primarily styrene), although I also often forgo them
and just use regular oil-based paints.

I worked for a year in a professional model making shop in Carnegie
Hall that specialized in large scale architectural models. $50K
models were not unusual. What sort of stuff do you do?

I've also painted outdoor "plumbing" with oil-based primer and ordinary
house paint, and have seen that it lasts for years.

Not all oil-based primers are recommended by their manufacturers for
use on exterior plastic. Some are okay with using their primer on
plastic only if it's interior. I suppose it is possible that the OP
has some oil-based primer on hand, but I'd bet you a box of donuts he
doesn't have one where it is recommended.

So, to sum up, either the OP uses a one step spray and saves on
application time, drying/waiting time, spends the same amount of money
or less, and follows the manufacturers directions, or he follows your
advice, spends more time, money and effort, and possibly ignores the
manufacturer's directions on your say so. The choice seems obvious.

R

[David Nebenzahl]

On 1/12/2011 1:00 PM RicodJour spake thus:

On Jan 12, 2:17 pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 1/11/2011 9:58 PM RicodJour spake thus:

I'm guessing you've never used paints meant for plastics.

Not true at all. In my modelmaking mode I use paints formulated for
painting plastic (primarily styrene), although I also often forgo
them and just use regular oil-based paints.

I worked for a year in a professional model making shop in Carnegie
Hall that specialized in large scale architectural models. $50K
models were not unusual. What sort of stuff do you do?

[Meant to answer this earlier but never got a round tuit]

Certainly nothing like what you mentioned. I'm a mostly model-railroad
hobbyist, so I've built a fair number of structure kits, mostly styrene,
and decorated them (painting, signage, etc.). But my current obsession
is scratchbuilding models of actual local structures, mostly out of
paper. I just finished a local commercial building front, and am
finishing up a model of a long-gone small train depot (at Lands End in
San Francisco). The first building came out very nicely.

Some pics of the comml. building model (haven't got pictures of the
finished piece yet):

http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y.../1918MLK-1.jpg (photo
of building)
http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...to/1918MLK.gif (working
drawing)
http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...odelstate1.jpg
(1st phase of construction)

So what kind of stuff did you do? At the prices you mentioned, it must
have been quite a bit more extensive that my little projects.


--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:

To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.

[RicodJour]

On Jan 17, 6:11*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 1/12/2011 1:00 PM RicodJour spake thus:

On Jan 12, 2:17 pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 1/11/2011 9:58 PM RicodJour spake thus:

I'm guessing you've never used paints meant for plastics.

Not true at all. In my modelmaking mode I use paints formulated for
*painting plastic (primarily styrene), although I also often forgo
them and just use regular oil-based paints.

I worked for a year in a professional model making shop in Carnegie
Hall that specialized in large scale architectural models. *$50K
models were not unusual. *What sort of stuff do you do?

[Meant to answer this earlier but never got a round tuit]

Certainly nothing like what you mentioned. I'm a mostly model-railroad
hobbyist, so I've built a fair number of structure kits, mostly styrene,
and decorated them (painting, signage, etc.). But my current obsession
is scratchbuilding models of actual local structures, mostly out of
paper. I just finished a local commercial building front, and am
finishing up a model of a long-gone small train depot (at Lands End in
San Francisco). The first building came out very nicely.

Some pics of the comml. building model (haven't got pictures of the
finished piece yet):

http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...LK-1.jpg(photo
of building)http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...LK.gif(working
drawing)http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...8MLKmodelstate...
(1st phase of construction)

So what kind of stuff did you do? At the prices you mentioned, it must
have been quite a bit more extensive that my little projects.

On Jan 17, 6:11 pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 1/12/2011 1:00 PM RicodJour spake thus:

On Jan 12, 2:17 pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 1/11/2011 9:58 PM RicodJour spake thus:

I'm guessing you've never used paints meant for plastics.

Not true at all. In my modelmaking mode I use paints formulated for
painting plastic (primarily styrene), although I also often forgo
them and just use regular oil-based paints.

I worked for a year in a professional model making shop in Carnegie
Hall that specialized in large scale architectural models. $50K
models were not unusual. What sort of stuff do you do?

[Meant to answer this earlier but never got a round tuit]

No problem. I'm always getting pulled in different directions, too.

Certainly nothing like what you mentioned. I'm a mostly model-railroad
hobbyist, so I've built a fair number of structure kits, mostly styrene,
and decorated them (painting, signage, etc.). But my current obsession
is scratchbuilding models of actual local structures, mostly out of
paper. I just finished a local commercial building front, and am
finishing up a model of a long-gone small train depot (at Lands End in
San Francisco). The first building came out very nicely.

Some pics of the comml. building model (haven't got pictures of the
finished piece yet):

http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...LK-1.jpg(photo
of building)http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...LK.gif(working
drawing)http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...8MLKmodelstate...
(1st phase of construction)

Interesting. Nice that you're doing real buildings - why did you pick
that particular one? Any special significance?

The dentist I went to when I was growing up was a big time railroad
model guy. He had three daughters and no sons, and whenever I'd go
over there, he'd take a break and we'd go up to the attic where it was
completely filled with a layout. He had an electrical engineer friend
who took care of the electric end of things, but as he was a truly
gifted man with his hands (ergo dentistry) he didn't need help with
the rest of the model. Really top notch stuff.

So what kind of stuff did you do? At the prices you mentioned, it must
have been quite a bit more extensive that my little projects.

Most of the models I built back then were for architects working on
commercial projects. Office buildings, civic centers, malls, that
sort of thing. The model shop owner was also a bit of an inventor
with a money-guy backing him, and I was their prototype guy. I wish I
knew then what I know now. We turned out some good stuff, but my
skill set is much, much better now. Except for the vision. Back then
my eyes were something like 20/15 in one eye and 20/10 in the other.
Now I see blurry letters if I'm not wearing my glasses.

I haven't built any big time models in a while, but this is one we
built the model for:
http://www.cityofrochester.gov/artic...?id=8589941255
I've never been to Rochester and it's funny to see the place. I
haven't seen it since we packed up the model and shipped it out 30
years ago, but I still feel like I've seen the place in person.

The owner of the model shop was a _real_ perfectionist. Certifiable,
and he wouldn't let models leave until they were ready. That didn't
always sit well with the clients. One time there were six of us
working on a model for maybe a month or six weeks, and he kept putting
off the client. Finally, the client called up and said, "George, we
don't need the model anymore. You can keep it." Ouch! So he ate a
many thousand dollar model. But I still admired his care in his work.

R