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Default How much power does a 120v 15A lighted switch use anyway?

Nonny wrote:

Interesting observation. I know that when a single lead from a neon
light touches a hot wire, the neon light will glow if there is almost
anything touching the other lead. Was used as a voltage checker long
before the IC devices were available. If the neon's lead was touching a
hot wire and the other a ground/neutral, then the lamp glowed brightly,
otherwise, there was a lesser glow.

This leads me to the conclusion that neon lighted switches take
advantage of this ability and do NOT require a lead to ground or neutral
to achieve the low level glow seen in a lighted switch. Perhaps an LED
lighted switch would require a grounded/neutral other lead to work,
together with diode to convert the AC to DC.


If the switch is lighted when off, the neon lamp (and series resistor)
are connected across the switch. The small current through the neon lamp
flows through the load on the switch. For a 3-way switch, the lamp is
connected across the travelers.

For a switch that is lighted (neon) when the switch is on, the switch
probably has a neutral connection. There is a resistor from each side of
the switch to the neon lamp, with the other side the lamp connected to
the neutral.

LEDs could operate essentially the same, probably with an extra diode.

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On 5/19/2010 5:58 AM keith spake thus:

On May 18, 9:17 pm, Smitty Two wrote:

In article ,

"HeyBub" wrote:

It's gonna get more expensive soon. Arizona provides about 30% of
California's power, and Arizona is ****ed.


If they won't give us power, we'll send them our illegal aliens.


Actually, Arizona is well on the way to sending you their illegals.


Fine. We'll happily accept them here.


--
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with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)
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Default How much power does a 120v 15A lighted switch use anyway?

On May 19, 12:06*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 5/19/2010 5:58 AM keith spake thus:



On May 18, 9:17 pm, Smitty Two wrote:


In article ,


*"HeyBub" wrote:


It's gonna get more expensive soon. Arizona provides about 30% of
California's power, and Arizona is ****ed.


If they won't give us power, we'll send them our illegal aliens.


Actually, Arizona is well on the way to sending you their illegals.


Fine. We'll happily accept them here.

That's good, because you're getting them in any case.
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I noticed something funny about the neon light on my Dad's basement
light switch. When I put my finger anywhere even NEAR the tip of the
switch, the neon light appears to *JUMP* away from the end back towards
the base of the switch. I assume there is something of a charge on my
hand, and that is causing the neon gas 'plasma' or whatever you call it
to move away? I never really investigated this, but found it very
interesting.
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In ,
keith wrote:

On May 17, 8:53*pm, Glenda Copeland gscopel...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Address.invalid wrote:
Just bought a dozen Leviton decora single pole 15A 120VAC lighted rocker
switches (model 5611, aka model 105-05611-21S).

Nothing on the box says how much power each of the lighted bulb uses when
the switch is in the off position.

Do you know how much power a lighted switch uses?


It's likely either an NE2 or an NE2H, which a quick web search shows
are rated for .03W and .09W, respectively. The right answer is
"fagetabooutit".


Some sort of spec sheet for several neon lamps, including NE-2H, by CML
Technologies (formerly Chicago Miniature Lamps):

http://www.cml-it.com/pdf/5-4.pdf

Design current of NE-2H is 1.9 milliamps. Multiply that by 120V and
the result is .23 watt.

In Philadelphia and nearby suburbs in Pennsylvania, that currently
amounts to 28-29 or so cents per year, likely to go up at least 10% in
January 2011, assuming 24 hour per day operation. (USA national average
would be more like 22 cents now.)

This does sound small. However, I would rather consider how much that
adds up to over the life of the neon lamp, knock it down slightly due to
paying-later while investments likely have rate-of-return exceeding
inflation in electricity cost, and consider it to be part of the switch.
Would you still buy the switch at that rate?

--
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Default How much power does a 120v 15A lighted switch use anyway?

Ohioguy wrote:

I noticed something funny about the neon light on my Dad's basement
light switch. When I put my finger anywhere even NEAR the tip of the
switch, the neon light appears to *JUMP* away from the end back
towards the base of the switch. I assume there is something of a
charge on my hand, and that is causing the neon gas 'plasma' or
whatever you call it to move away?


Most likely it isnt connected properly and thats not a problem
because the very low current gets thru the small capacitace fine.

I never really investigated this, but found it very interesting.



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In ,
terry wrote:

On May 18, 3:16*pm, Glenda Copeland gscopel...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Address.invalid wrote:
On Tue, 18 May 2010 06:17:06 -0700 (PDT), keith wrote:
It's likely either an NE2 or an NE2H, which a quick web search shows
are rated for .03W and .09W, respectively. *The right answer is
"fagetabooutit".


Using 0.1W, and averaging my electric rates (35¢/KW) for a dozen switches I
get about 25¢/month or $3.00/year.


Ok on all those numbers but the spec I found showed each neon
indicator using about 0.04 watts per hour.


Make that .04 watts, or .04 watt-hours per hour.

Based on 0.3 milliamps at 115 volts. Thus wattage = current times
voltage or (0.3 x 115)/1000 = 0.0345 watts per hour.


I have a lot of experience with a lighted switch at my "day job", and
it is obvious to me that the neon lamp there is a "high intensity" type,
probably C2A (NE-2H) or A1C ("mini NE2H").

http://www.cml-it.com/pdf/5-4.pdf says design current for NE-2H is 1.9
milliamps. Multiply by 120V, that means .228 watt. Since neon lamps
don't conduct at less than 50-60V, I seem to think that average voltage
used to push electrons through from 120 VAC is closer to 130V. That would
mean closer to .25 watt.

Per month that would be 24 x30 x 0.0345 = 24.84 watt/hours.

And at ten cents per 1000 watt hours (i.e. per kilowatt/hour) that'd
cost 24.84/1000 x $0.1 = approx 0.25 cents
At 35 cents per kilowatt hour it would be 0.75 cents, per month.
And for a dozen switches 0.75 x 12 = about 3 cents or of the order of
36 cents per year.
Since we are all presuming, it seems, that the indicator light inside
the switches will be off whenever whatever the switch controls is 'on'
the indicators will cost even less than that. In other words if one is
using electric lights, negligible!


35 cents per KWH does sound to me high. I thought Philadelphia was bad
at around 14-15 cents per KWH. Chicago and NYC are close to Philadelphia
in electricity cost as of last time I checked.

Meanwhile, I would balance lighted switches against another slice or two
of pizza per year or a few more newspapers per year.

--
- Don Klipstein )
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In , Glenda Copeland wrote:
On Tue, 18 May 2010 02:25:44 +0000 (UTC), Don Klipstein wrote:

Figure about 1/4 watt for those, which means around 2.2 KWH per year
times 1/100 of the percentage of the time that the neon lamp is on.


I don't understand the 1/100th the percentage (figure 98% of the time the
switch is off so the neon bulb is on).

What's the 1/100 for?


1/100 of 98 is .98. That would mean KWH per year is 2.2 times .98,
which is 2.156.

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In ,
Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
"HeyBub" wrote:

It's gonna get more expensive soon. Arizona provides about 30% of
California's power, and Arizona is ****ed.


If they won't give us power, we'll send them our illegal aliens.


I seem to think that if such a "p!$$ing contest" develops along with
ability to ship out illegal aliens, I would think that Arizona would send
them back to California, Freight Collect. Maybe along with some of their
own - especially if expelling illegal aliens from a state is legally
easier of not forcing them to cross or dragging them across an
international border.

If California gains competence and allowance at state level of
government expelling illegal aliens, it appears to me that CA would do
better to send them back outside USA as a whole. If not, I seem to think
that CA is not in really good shape to tick off AZ.

--
- Don Klipstein )


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In ,
Mark wrote:

On May 18, 2:56*pm, keith wrote:
On May 18, 12:14*pm, Glenda Copeland gscopel...@Use-Author-Supplied-

Address.invalid wrote:
On Tue, 18 May 2010 04:57:45 -0700 (PDT), Jack Hammer wrote:
It is negligible regardless what's in there, neon or LED.
I'prefer LED, neon emits electric noise.


more lumen/watt from led then neon.


It looks like it's costing 25¢/month for the dozen neon-lit switches.


What noise would I be worried about? I have the normal stuff (phones,
computer, router, etc.) Which would the neon affect and how?


AM radio, close to the lamp tuned to a very weak station, maybe.



BTW, I didn't see ANY LED illuminated switches at ACE or OSH in town! - Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


there is NO significant RF noise radiated or conducted at all from a
tiny NE-2 neon lamp..
Note, we are NOT talking about neon store window signs that operate at
25kV.


Although I agree with your point, I would like to nit-pick that the
highest common voltage for a neon sign transformer is 15 KV and most are
12KV or less, and less still when loaded down by the neon sign.

--
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In article , Ohioguy wrote:

I noticed something funny about the neon light on my Dad's basement
light switch. When I put my finger anywhere even NEAR the tip of the
switch, the neon light appears to *JUMP* away from the end back towards
the base of the switch. I assume there is something of a charge on my
hand, and that is causing the neon gas 'plasma' or whatever you call it
to move away? I never really investigated this, but found it very
interesting.


It is common for neon lamps to be operated with the cathode/negative
glow not completely covering an electrode. In any given glow discharge
lamp, this glow layer has some sort of natural current density in mA per
square centimeter. If the current is low enough to incompletely cover the
electrodes at that current density "rate", then the electrodes are
incompletely covered by glow.

And, it is easy to cause the glow to move around. In some neon lamps
operated with glow incompletely covering their eectrodes, the
cathode/negative glow layer even jumps around on its own. The best
example of this is "flicker flame" neon lamps.

With AC, some trace of current can flow through insulators (such as the
glass bulb) due to "capacitive coupling". Each electrode has to re-fire
60 times per second with usual AC in North America (50 times per second in
Europe). It sounds to me plausible for touching some neon lamps to cause
their glow pattern to shift.

--
- Don Klipstein )
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there is NO significant RF noise radiated or conducted at all from a
tiny NE-2 neon lamp..


Note, we are NOT talking about neon store window signs that operate at
25kV.


* Although I agree with your point, I would like to nit-pick that the
highest common voltage for a neon sign transformer is 15 KV and most are
12KV or less, and less still when loaded down by the neon sign.

--
*- Don Klipstein )


Don..
ok point taken...thanks :-) Mark

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On 5/19/2010 9:29 PM Smitty Two spake thus:

In article ,
(Don Klipstein) wrote:

In ,
Smitty Two wrote:

In article ,
"HeyBub" wrote:

It's gonna get more expensive soon. Arizona provides about 30% of
California's power, and Arizona is ****ed.

If they won't give us power, we'll send them our illegal aliens.


I seem to think that if such a "p!$$ing contest" develops along with
ability to ship out illegal aliens, I would think that Arizona would send
them back to California, Freight Collect. Maybe along with some of their
own - especially if expelling illegal aliens from a state is legally
easier of not forcing them to cross or dragging them across an
international border.

If California gains competence and allowance at state level of
government expelling illegal aliens, it appears to me that CA would do
better to send them back outside USA as a whole. If not, I seem to think
that CA is not in really good shape to tick off AZ.


Some billionaire woman is buying herself the governorship of CA, and she
doesn't like illegal aliens anymore than AZ does.


You shoulda written "is *trying to buy*" the governator's seat. Meg
Whitman's popularity has plummeted from 61% to 39% since March (just saw
it on the teevee news tonight).


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (
http://antiwar.com)


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Well it is no problem if there is just *one* and it is only on for one hour.
But there are hundreds of these little lights around a home and they are on
24 hours a day 365 days a year...

As with everything else when being frugal, things add up! Learn to add.

These little power on lights are in everything these days. Try to find a
power strip without any lights in it. GFCI outlets have little lights in
them now. Everything has little lights.

I know electronics and electrical wiring, so I was able to disconnect all of
these lights around my home (the green light in a GFCI was the straw - I
said Enough!). With the GFCI's, I rewired my house so these outlets are now
on 20 amp switches. They are off when not in use.

A good example are outside outlets which are GFCI. Maybe used once or twice
a year in my case, but the GFCI for that is always on and using a little
electricity.

My electric bill went down $2.50 a month after doing this. (GFCI's also
always use electricity even if they don't have any lights.)

That is a $30 a year savings. I need that money a lot more than my electric
company does.

My neighbors on the other hand (who can't add), buy things everyday which
cost $1 or $2. They say it is just $1. And they do this several times a day.
Buy soda pop, coffee at the stand (it is just $2.50), etc.

Then by the end of the month, they are a couple of hundred dollars short and
don't have enough for their bills.

Learn to add. Little things add up...

Note: I don't suggest that people go out an hire an electrician to modify
their existing wiring, that would be silly. I can do these things for almost
nothing, so that is a different situation. But if you are rewiring your
kitchen for example, place a couple of extra switches next to the light
switch - have those switches turn off the counter top outlets. This will
remove power to the GFCI's and to parasitic loads (like appliances which
always use electricity). Just flip several switches and everything is off in
the kitchen!

On parasitic loads...
Leaking Electricity: Individual Field Measurement of Consumer Electronics -
Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory
http://enduse.lbl.gov/info/ACEEE-Leaking.pdf


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Default How much power does a 120v 15A lighted switch use anyway?

On Tue, 18 May 2010 17:08:57 +0000 (UTC), Glenda Copeland
wrote:

On Mon, 17 May 2010 21:04:51 -0700 (PDT), hr(bob) wrote:

Much less than the stand-by power a wall-wart uses


What is a wall wart?


It's one of those things on the end of a power cord, that's bigger
than a plug. Makes it look like some sort of fungus is growing on the
wall. These are usually power supplies, but can be other things like
remote controls and GFCI adapters.
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On Tue, 18 May 2010 17:20:53 +0000 (UTC), Glenda Copeland
wrote:

On Tue, 18 May 2010 07:02:52 -0700 (PDT), terry wrote:

The neon glows when the switch is 'off'.


Yes.

At ten cents per k.watt.hr


The only "problem" is that our energy here in sunny California is nowhere
near 10¢ per KWh. I'm going to get my bill and come back with the actual
numbers, but the first KWh is about 12¢ but that only lasts for a
"baseline" which is about a week. Then the next week is double, then
triple, then more than four times that when you get to the last week.

I'm figuring easily that it's 35¢/KWh here in California. Any other
Californians out there that can help me on the math?


That's a big difference. It's about 8¢ here in east Texas (figuring
from actual electric bills, NOT company ads).

[snip]
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"At one point in time, many of us actually had Jesus as our personal
lord and saviour. Unfortunately, we later had to dismiss him for
incompetence, gross negligence, misconduct and consistent failure to

show up for work."
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On Jun 6, 7:54*pm, Mark Lloyd wrote:
On Tue, 18 May 2010 17:20:53 +0000 (UTC), Glenda Copeland





wrote:
On Tue, 18 May 2010 07:02:52 -0700 (PDT), terry wrote:


The neon glows when the switch is 'off'.


Yes.


At ten cents per k.watt.hr


The only "problem" is that our energy here in sunny California is nowhere
near 10 per KWh. I'm going to get my bill and come back with the actual
numbers, but the first KWh is about 12 but that only lasts for a
"baseline" which is about a week. Then the next week is double, then
triple, then more than four times that when you get to the last week.


I'm figuring easily that it's 35 /KWh here in California. Any other
Californians out there that can help me on the math?


That's a big difference. It's about 8 here in east Texas (figuring
from actual electric bills, NOT company ads).

[snip]
--
Mark Lloydhttp://notstupid.us

"At one point in time, many of us actually had Jesus as our personal
lord and saviour. *Unfortunately, we later had to dismiss him for
incompetence, gross negligence, misconduct and consistent failure to

show up for work."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Maybe OK in principle but ............ Problem is that based on $2,50
per month ($30.00 per year), if indeed it is that much? That just over
8 cents per-day is inconsequential in the overall cost of operating a
North American home. (Less than 1% of energy bill).
Eight cents per day is here (NE Canada) about 8/10ths of 1000 watt
hours during one day, or the equivalent of leaving one 34 watt
fluorescent tube light fixture on all the time!.
Since we have a 9 'LED strip above our sink that uses ONE watt
(total), which we leave on all the time, it's hard to perceive 'All
the little indicator lights' adding up to anything significant!'
Also recall that after WWII, in the UK, neon 'night lights' became
available and my grandfather saying, with some delight, that he turned
off everything in the house except the night light and 'The meter
didn't even move'!
As posted here previously, mains voltage neons use a milliamp or two,
at 120 or 240 volts, LEDs probably less!
And since all/most electrical energy entering a home ends up as heat
within the house envelope anyway .................. !
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In ,
terry wrote:

SNIP previously quoted stuff on power consumption of neon indicator lamps

Maybe OK in principle but ............ Problem is that based on $2,50
per month ($30.00 per year), if indeed it is that much? That just over
8 cents per-day is inconsequential in the overall cost of operating a
North American home. (Less than 1% of energy bill).


1% here, a fraction of a percent there and other places, half a percent
in a couple more, another % in each of a couple other places... That
often adds up to something significant.

Eight cents per day is here (NE Canada) about 8/10ths of 1000 watt
hours during one day, or the equivalent of leaving one 34 watt
fluorescent tube light fixture on all the time!.
Since we have a 9 'LED strip above our sink that uses ONE watt
(total), which we leave on all the time, it's hard to perceive 'All
the little indicator lights' adding up to anything significant!'
Also recall that after WWII, in the UK, neon 'night lights' became
available and my grandfather saying, with some delight, that he turned
off everything in the house except the night light and 'The meter
didn't even move'!


As posted here previously, mains voltage neons use a milliamp or two,
at 120 or 240 volts, LEDs probably less!


LEDs usually take more. Few get less than 2 mA, and 10 mA is typical.
Keep in mind that most indcator LEDs even now have chip chemistries that
were available in the mid to late 1970's. That is done ecause they cost
less than more efficient more modern ones.
With an average supply voltage that LED power comes from likely being
around 5 volts in consumer products other than power strips, along with
losses in the power supply, I would expect typical power consumption by
and associated with each LED glowing in the house to be ~.07 watt. What
if there's a lot of those?

However, I would worry more about wallwarts being plugged in all the
time and computers, monitors, TVs etc. drawing a few watts each when they
are plugged in but "off", and 4-7W incandescent nightlights that can be
replaced by 1/3-watt to 1-watt LED ones.

And since all/most electrical energy entering a home ends up as heat
within the house envelope anyway .................. !


Which in most places costs more per BTU than natural gas, fuel oil
and heat pumps do. And when it's not heating season, the electricity cost
does not offset anything. And when it's air conditioning season, the cost
is compounded.

--
- Don Klipstein )


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Default How much power does a 120v 15A lighted switch use anyway?

On 06/06/10 10:04 PM, terry wrote:

snip

As posted here previously, mains voltage neons use a milliamp or two,
at 120 or 240 volts, LEDs probably less!


Indicator LEDs are about 2mA at 2VDV, so at 120VAC the losses in the
transformer and rectifiers are far more than the power actually drawn by
the LED. A neon lamp might actually be more efficient to run off of AC
since you don't have all the losses of the magnetics. You could run an
LED off low voltage AC and it would just illuminate on half of each
cycle (some cyclists do this when they connect an LED directly to their
dynamo without using a rectifier).
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On 17/05/10 6:53 PM, Glenda Copeland wrote:
Just bought a dozen Leviton decora single pole 15A 120VAC lighted rocker
switches (model 5611, aka model 105-05611-21S).

Nothing on the box says how much power each of the lighted bulb uses when
the switch is in the off position.

Do you know how much power a lighted switch uses?


These have an NE-2 neon bulb which draws about 0.6mA, so at 120V it's
around 0.07 watts. So 1000 lighted switches would be a little less than
a 75 watt light bulb.

Suffice it to say, the watt-hours you'd save with even 50 unlighted
versus lighted switches would barely be measurable, even over the course
of a year.

Some people unplug things like phone chargers when not in use. I.e. an
iPhone charger draws 0.2W even when the phone is not connected, close to
3X what a lighted switch draws, but still a trivial amount.

You can buy power strips with individual switches to avoid unplugging
wall warts all the time. But you'd probably never recover the cost of
the power strip in saved electricity.
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On 07/06/10 12:07 PM, Don Klipstein wrote:
In , SMS wrote:
On 17/05/10 6:53 PM, Glenda Copeland wrote:

I snip a bit to edit for space

Do you know how much power a lighted switch uses?


These have an NE-2 neon bulb which draws about 0.6mA, so at 120V it's
around 0.07 watts. So 1000 lighted switches would be a little less than
a 75 watt light bulb.


My experience with a lighted switch is that its neon lamp is either
an A1C ("mini-NE-2H") or a C2A (NE-2H). Those get more like 2 mA.


I was going by the NE-2, which actually is about 0.03W at 120V, but an
NE-2H is about 0.2W, and an A1C is about 0.14W. So if the light switch
was never turned on, and it was an NE-2H, it would be about 1.7KWH per
year, so you're right, about 2KW a year if it's an NE-2H.
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Default How much power does a 120v 15A lighted switch use anyway?

On Jun 9, 11:30*am, SMS wrote:
On 07/06/10 12:07 PM, Don Klipstein wrote:

In , SMS wrote:
On 17/05/10 6:53 PM, Glenda Copeland wrote:

I snip a bit to edit for space


Do you know how much power a lighted switch uses?


These have an NE-2 neon bulb which draws about 0.6mA, so at 120V it's
around 0.07 watts. So 1000 lighted switches would be a little less than
* a 75 watt light bulb.


* *My experience with a lighted switch is that its neon lamp is either
an A1C ("mini-NE-2H") or a C2A (NE-2H). *Those get more like 2 mA.


I was going by the NE-2, which actually is about 0.03W at 120V, but an
NE-2H is about 0.2W, and an A1C is about 0.14W. So if the light switch
was never turned on, and it was an NE-2H, it would be about 1.7KWH per
year, so you're right, about 2KW a year if it's an NE-2H.


==
Which is negligible...not to worry about...not to budget for...not to
have ulcers over. In other words...forget it.
==
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Default How much power does a 120v 15A lighted switch use anyway?

On 09/06/10 1:22 PM, Roy wrote:
On Jun 9, 11:30 am, wrote:
On 07/06/10 12:07 PM, Don Klipstein wrote:

In , SMS wrote:
On 17/05/10 6:53 PM, Glenda Copeland wrote:
I snip a bit to edit for space


Do you know how much power a lighted switch uses?


These have an NE-2 neon bulb which draws about 0.6mA, so at 120V it's
around 0.07 watts. So 1000 lighted switches would be a little less than
a 75 watt light bulb.


My experience with a lighted switch is that its neon lamp is either
an A1C ("mini-NE-2H") or a C2A (NE-2H). Those get more like 2 mA.


I was going by the NE-2, which actually is about 0.03W at 120V, but an
NE-2H is about 0.2W, and an A1C is about 0.14W. So if the light switch
was never turned on, and it was an NE-2H, it would be about 1.7KWH per
year, so you're right, about 2KW a year if it's an NE-2H.


==
Which is negligible...not to worry about...not to budget for...not to
have ulcers over. In other words...forget it.


I agree, probably 25 cents per switch per year. But didn't someone claim
that they'd reduced their electric bill by $2.50 a month by getting rid
of a bunch of these sorts of loads? I doubt if it was true.



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Default How much power does a 120v 15A lighted switch use anyway?

On 06/10/2010 05:38 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 09 Jun 2010 14:59:45 -0700,
wrote:

On 09/06/10 1:22 PM, Roy wrote:
On Jun 9, 11:30 am, wrote:
On 07/06/10 12:07 PM, Don Klipstein wrote:

In , SMS wrote:
On 17/05/10 6:53 PM, Glenda Copeland wrote:
I snip a bit to edit for space

Do you know how much power a lighted switch uses?

These have an NE-2 neon bulb which draws about 0.6mA, so at 120V it's
around 0.07 watts. So 1000 lighted switches would be a little less than
a 75 watt light bulb.

My experience with a lighted switch is that its neon lamp is either
an A1C ("mini-NE-2H") or a C2A (NE-2H). Those get more like 2 mA.

I was going by the NE-2, which actually is about 0.03W at 120V, but an
NE-2H is about 0.2W, and an A1C is about 0.14W. So if the light switch
was never turned on, and it was an NE-2H, it would be about 1.7KWH per
year, so you're right, about 2KW a year if it's an NE-2H.

==
Which is negligible...not to worry about...not to budget for...not to
have ulcers over. In other words...forget it.


I agree, probably 25 cents per switch per year. But didn't someone claim
that they'd reduced their electric bill by $2.50 a month by getting rid
of a bunch of these sorts of loads? I doubt if it was true.



25 cents a year is enough for me to rip them all out from my house. I
already got rid of the doorbell because the doorbell transformer costs
close to $10 a year. It dont cost anything to post a sign on the door
that says "KNOCK HARD".

If you want to see your light switches at night. put one of those
solar powered sidewalk lights in a window in every room.


I couldn't find any white Decora style dimmer switches that *weren't*
also lighted in any store near me. That's the main reason that I have
two lighted switches in my house (the design department wanted Decora on
the first floor.)

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
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Default How much power does a 120v 15A lighted switch use anyway?

Roy wrote:

-snip-

==
Yes, quite cheap for a light to indicate the location of switches in
the dark. People are a puzzle sometimes.
==


"Meditatio" by Ezra Pound
When I carefully consider the curious habits of dogs
I am compelled to conclude
That man is the superior animal.

When I consider the curious habits of man
I confess, my friend, I am puzzled.

Jim
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