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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to the right temperature

How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature?

My Honeywell round thermostat has a bulb with mercury in it and a coil of
metal that seems to control when it makes electrical contact.

When I set the Honeywell bulb thermostat to 68°F, the heat only gets to
about 58°F. Likewise, when I set the thermostat to 85°F, the heat shuts off
when it reaches about 75°F.

This works fine except my husband keeps yelling at me for setting the
thermostat to 85°.

I know the simple answer is to change him but why do thermostats have
numbers on them if they're not even close to those numbers?

Is there a way to adjust the temperature? When I pull the round cover off,
I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the plate below but
that pointer is already all the way to the left and moving it to the right
just seems to make the offset error worse.

What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set
point before turning off?
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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to theright temperature

On Feb 22, 5:07*pm, Glenda Copeland gscopel...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Address.invalid wrote:
How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature?

My Honeywell round thermostat has a bulb with mercury in it and a coil of
metal that seems to control when it makes electrical contact.

When I set the Honeywell bulb thermostat to 68°F, the heat only gets to
about 58°F. Likewise, when I set the thermostat to 85°F, the heat shuts off
when it reaches about 75°F.

This works fine except my husband keeps yelling at me for setting the
thermostat to 85°.

I know the simple answer is to change him but why do thermostats have
numbers on them if they're not even close to those numbers?

Is there a way to adjust the temperature? When I pull the round cover off,
I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the plate below but
that pointer is already all the way to the left and moving it to the right
just seems to make the offset error worse.

What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set
point before turning off?


You have to turn the mounting of the coil spring that the mercury bulb
is connected to. I don't have that type of thermostat any more, so I
can't give you detailed instructions. But, I'm sure others here will,
give them a few hours.
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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to the right temperature


"Glenda Copeland" wrote in
message ...
How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature?

My Honeywell round thermostat has a bulb with mercury in it and a coil of
metal that seems to control when it makes electrical contact.

When I set the Honeywell bulb thermostat to 68°F, the heat only gets to
about 58°F. Likewise, when I set the thermostat to 85°F, the heat shuts
off
when it reaches about 75°F.

This works fine except my husband keeps yelling at me for setting the
thermostat to 85°.

I know the simple answer is to change him but why do thermostats have
numbers on them if they're not even close to those numbers?

Is there a way to adjust the temperature? When I pull the round cover off,
I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the plate below
but
that pointer is already all the way to the left and moving it to the right
just seems to make the offset error worse.

What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the
set
point before turning off?



It's probably easier to just replace the mercury thermostat with a digital.
It'll be more accurate and have less temperature fluctuation. The little
pointy thing is supposed to be aiming at whatever current amount the device
it's controlling is drawing. It may be a relay or a zone valve, so you'd
have to know this, then find the thing, then find the label on it where it
give it's current draw. You could just point the thing far to one side, then
see how it affects the temperature, then far to the other side, and make
whatever adjustments you need. Keep in mind also, that Honeywell T-87 yo-yo
thermostats must be level as well. There are marks on it, that you hold a
plumb bob up to ,to properly level it.


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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to the right temperature

Glenda Copeland wrote:
How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set
temperature?

My Honeywell round thermostat has a bulb with mercury in it and a
coil of metal that seems to control when it makes electrical contact.

When I set the Honeywell bulb thermostat to 68°F, the heat only gets
to about 58°F. Likewise, when I set the thermostat to 85°F, the heat
shuts off when it reaches about 75°F.

This works fine except my husband keeps yelling at me for setting the
thermostat to 85°.

I know the simple answer is to change him but why do thermostats have
numbers on them if they're not even close to those numbers?

Is there a way to adjust the temperature? When I pull the round cover
off, I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the
plate below but that pointer is already all the way to the left and
moving it to the right just seems to make the offset error worse.

What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach
the set point before turning off?


I don't have that particular unit, but on mine, it looks like the is a nut
behind the metal thermo spring that could be turned a bit to calibrate it. What
you need is to turn it in the direction that makes the mercury switch less
level - just a little. If such an adjustment is not evident, bending the metal
where the switch attaches to the thermospring could do it.

The copper pointer at the bottom probably adjusts the difference between turn on
and turn off.


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The adjustment you are talkig about s called a heat anticipator. RBM is
correct in that is adjusted to the amperage draw of whatever the
thermostat is controlling. The others are also correct in that digitals
are much more accurate, and now a lot of them actually cost less than
mercury bulb mechanical types. Larry



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On Feb 22, 6:23*pm, (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:
The adjustment you are talkig about s called a heat anticipator. RBM is
correct in that is adjusted to the amperage draw of whatever the
thermostat is controlling. The others are also correct in that digitals
are much more accurate, and now a lot of them actually cost less than
mercury bulb mechanical types. *Larry


The heat anticipator is not whats off with that issue, the anticipator
is correctly set to what it controls and controls how wide a swing you
get before the thermostat comes on and goes off, the issue is its 10f
off which happens with those dial units if someone messed with it not
knowing how to calibrate it to the thermometers "temp" or forced it
over to one side. Honywell used to supply with every round thermostat
a little wrench that slips over the nut so you can turn the dial to
get it set to run as the thermometer temp states, its a real real thin
wrench but maybe Ace or a heating supply house has one. Often they
wernt packed in the box so you had to ask and maybe pay 35c for one.
One of mine is off now and I cant find my wrench, its off 6f, but it
works fine with a 2f swing, so get used to it or get a wrench. Now if
temp swings to much from on to off, then look at the anticipator.
Those units are foolproof in design, and would outlast digital, they
are not made anymore because of the Mercury bulb and disposal
concerns. They still make the round style, but took out the mercury.
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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to the right temperature

Marina wrote:

Tell your husband that just because it's pointed to 85, it doesn't
mean the air temp is 85. Get a room thermometer and set it near the
thermostat. Then show him the thermometer's reading of the air temp.
And tell him to mind his own business.... he he.


Tell him the house has to warm up before you can.


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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) tothe right temperature

Glenda Copeland wrote:
How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature?

My Honeywell round thermostat has a bulb with mercury in it and a coil of
metal that seems to control when it makes electrical contact.

When I set the Honeywell bulb thermostat to 68°F, the heat only gets to
about 58°F. Likewise, when I set the thermostat to 85°F, the heat shuts off
when it reaches about 75°F.

This works fine except my husband keeps yelling at me for setting the
thermostat to 85°.

I know the simple answer is to change him but why do thermostats have
numbers on them if they're not even close to those numbers?

Is there a way to adjust the temperature? When I pull the round cover off,
I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the plate below but
that pointer is already all the way to the left and moving it to the right
just seems to make the offset error worse.

What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set
point before turning off?

Hi,
First thing first.
Did you have this problem all the time or it is acting up lately?
Sounds like good cleaning and calibration is needed.
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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) tothe right temperature

wrote:
On Feb 22, 7:23 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Glenda Copeland wrote:
How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set
temperature?
My Honeywell round thermostat has a bulb with mercury in it and a
coil of metal that seems to control when it makes electrical contact.
When I set the Honeywell bulb thermostat to 68°F, the heat only gets
to about 58°F. Likewise, when I set the thermostat to 85°F, the heat
shuts off when it reaches about 75°F.
This works fine except my husband keeps yelling at me for setting the
thermostat to 85°.
I know the simple answer is to change him but why do thermostats have
numbers on them if they're not even close to those numbers?
Is there a way to adjust the temperature? When I pull the round cover
off, I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the
plate below but that pointer is already all the way to the left and
moving it to the right just seems to make the offset error worse.
What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach
the set point before turning off?

I don't have that particular unit, but on mine, it looks like the is a nut
behind the metal thermo spring that could be turned a bit to calibrate it. What
you need is to turn it in the direction that makes the mercury switch less
level - just a little. If such an adjustment is not evident, bending the metal
where the switch attaches to the thermospring could do it.

The copper pointer at the bottom probably adjusts the difference between turn on
and turn off.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Agree with you and Ransley. First thing is to make sure it's
level. Then if necessary you need a thin wrench that you can hold
the nut with so the mechanism doesn't move while you rotate the dial.


I agree that checking if it is level is a starting point. If it is
level, you could shift it off level in the correct direction as an
alternative to finding the real thin wrench that is used to change the
calibration. To change the leveling you may have to unscrew 2 or 3
recessed screws to remove the thermostat from the baseplate, and loosen
the screws holding the baseplate to the wall. The baseplate has level marks.

--
bud--

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This doesn't sound like the OP's problem, but I just thought I'd throw
this out as a FYI. About 12 years or so ago, I ran into a round
Honeywell T87 that I had installed the year before, and something had
happened to the mercury. Instead of it being a shiny silver, it looked
like molten lead, and acted about the same. Normally,as soon as the bulb
gets the least bit off level either way, the mercury will roll in the
lower direction and turn the unit off or on. On this, it wouldn't move
until the bulb was slanted all the way, and it moved like a glob instead
of a fluid. For all the temperature control it did, it might as well
have been a toggle switch. I replaced it under warranty. But the really
strange thing was, over a relatively short time, I ran into two others,
both also T87's that were exactly the same way, and haven't seen any
more since. They always say things like that come in threes. FWIW, the
first was on a gas wall furnace, one of the others was on a gas central,
though the call was for the a/c, and the other an electric central, and
I don't remember if it was an a/c or heat call. Larry



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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to the right temperature

On Mon, 22 Feb 2010 18:35:11 -0700, Tony Hwang wrote:

Did you have this problem all the time or it is acting up lately?


It's our first winter in this house and it's all the time so far.
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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to the right temperature

First, make sure the thermostat is level. If it's
tilted, it won't work right.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Glenda Copeland"

wrote in message
...
How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat
reaches the set temperature?

My Honeywell round thermostat has a bulb with
mercury in it and a coil of
metal that seems to control when it makes
electrical contact.

When I set the Honeywell bulb thermostat to 68°F,
the heat only gets to
about 58°F. Likewise, when I set the thermostat to
85°F, the heat shuts off
when it reaches about 75°F.

This works fine except my husband keeps yelling at
me for setting the
thermostat to 85°.

I know the simple answer is to change him but why
do thermostats have
numbers on them if they're not even close to those
numbers?

Is there a way to adjust the temperature? When I
pull the round cover off,
I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch
marks on the plate below but
that pointer is already all the way to the left
and moving it to the right
just seems to make the offset error worse.

What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round
thermostat to reach the set
point before turning off?


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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to theright temperature

On Feb 22, 7:23*pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Glenda Copeland wrote:
How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set
temperature?


My Honeywell round thermostat has a bulb with mercury in it and a
coil of metal that seems to control when it makes electrical contact.


When I set the Honeywell bulb thermostat to 68°F, the heat only gets
to about 58°F. Likewise, when I set the thermostat to 85°F, the heat
shuts off when it reaches about 75°F.


This works fine except my husband keeps yelling at me for setting the
thermostat to 85°.


I know the simple answer is to change him but why do thermostats have
numbers on them if they're not even close to those numbers?


Is there a way to adjust the temperature? When I pull the round cover
off, I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the
plate below but that pointer is already all the way to the left and
moving it to the right just seems to make the offset error worse.


What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach
the set point before turning off?


I don't have that particular unit, but on mine, it looks like the is a nut
behind the metal thermo spring that could be turned a bit to calibrate it.. What
you need is to turn it in the direction that makes the mercury switch less
level - just a little. If such an adjustment is not evident, bending the metal
where the switch attaches to the thermospring could do it.

The copper pointer at the bottom probably adjusts the difference between turn on
and turn off.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Agree with you and Ransley. First thing is to make sure it's
level. Then if necessary you need a thin wrench that you can hold
the nut with so the mechanism doesn't move while you rotate the dial.

All in all, considering the conveniences of a programmable digital
one, I'd just replace it. Wouldn't it be nice to set the heat back
at night and have it come back up shortly before you wake up?
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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to the right temperature

Glenda Copeland wrote:
On Mon, 22 Feb 2010 18:35:11 -0700, Tony Hwang wrote:

Did you have this problem all the time or it is acting up lately?


It's our first winter in this house and it's all the time so far.


Worst case (Or maybe simplest), you could just tilt the unit ( Twist it on the
wall) to adjust it.


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On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 08:33:56 -0500, Stormin Mormon wrote:

First, make sure the thermostat is level.


The word "Honeywell" in the center is perfectly level.


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On Feb 23, 7:51*am, wrote:
On Feb 22, 7:23*pm, "Bob F" wrote:





Glenda Copeland wrote:
How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set
temperature?


My Honeywell round thermostat has a bulb with mercury in it and a
coil of metal that seems to control when it makes electrical contact.


When I set the Honeywell bulb thermostat to 68°F, the heat only gets
to about 58°F. Likewise, when I set the thermostat to 85°F, the heat
shuts off when it reaches about 75°F.


This works fine except my husband keeps yelling at me for setting the
thermostat to 85°.


I know the simple answer is to change him but why do thermostats have
numbers on them if they're not even close to those numbers?


Is there a way to adjust the temperature? When I pull the round cover
off, I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the
plate below but that pointer is already all the way to the left and
moving it to the right just seems to make the offset error worse.


What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach
the set point before turning off?


I don't have that particular unit, but on mine, it looks like the is a nut
behind the metal thermo spring that could be turned a bit to calibrate it. What
you need is to turn it in the direction that makes the mercury switch less
level - just a little. If such an adjustment is not evident, bending the metal
where the switch attaches to the thermospring could do it.


The copper pointer at the bottom probably adjusts the difference between turn on
and turn off.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Agree with you and Ransley. * First thing is to make sure it's
level. * Then if necessary you need a thin wrench that you can hold
the nut with so the mechanism doesn't move while you rotate the dial.

All in all, considering the conveniences of a programmable digital
one, I'd just replace it. * Wouldn't it be nice to set the heat back
at night and have it come back up shortly before you wake up?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I have nothing against technology, I have all sorts of stuff, the
round honywell is is even in the museum of modern art. Its a classic,
I can adjust it, calibrate it, set anything with ease, now my digital
if I dont have my manual I cant adjust temp swing or calibrate the
thermometer and I dont know where my manual is anymore. My round
Honywell has setback, I set it back, it has advance, I advance it. It
will outlast new stuff.
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On Feb 22, 11:07*pm, Glenda Copeland gscopel...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Address.invalid wrote:
How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature?

My Honeywell round thermostat has a bulb with mercury in it and a coil of
metal that seems to control when it makes electrical contact.

When I set the Honeywell bulb thermostat to 68°F, the heat only gets to
about 58°F. Likewise, when I set the thermostat to 85°F, the heat shuts off
when it reaches about 75°F.

This works fine except my husband keeps yelling at me for setting the
thermostat to 85°.

I know the simple answer is to change him but why do thermostats have
numbers on them if they're not even close to those numbers?

Is there a way to adjust the temperature? When I pull the round cover off,
I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the plate below but
that pointer is already all the way to the left and moving it to the right
just seems to make the offset error worse.

What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set
point before turning off?


The problem you have is called hysteresis. When the temperature rises
the 'stat switches off & the temp. falls but the stat does not close
at the same temperature as when it was rising. The hysteresis should
only be a couple of degrees but now it's obviously a lot more. This is
due to ancient technology and probably wear and tear and lack of
lubrication. The mercury bulb is indestructable but the rest of the
'stat wears. Get a new themostat. It will pay for itself in a year.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hysteresis
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On Feb 22, 11:07*pm, Glenda Copeland gscopel...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Address.invalid wrote:
How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature?

My Honeywell round thermostat has a bulb with mercury in it and a coil of
metal that seems to control when it makes electrical contact.

When I set the Honeywell bulb thermostat to 68°F, the heat only gets to
about 58°F. Likewise, when I set the thermostat to 85°F, the heat shuts off
when it reaches about 75°F.

This works fine except my husband keeps yelling at me for setting the
thermostat to 85°.

I know the simple answer is to change him but why do thermostats have
numbers on them if they're not even close to those numbers?

Is there a way to adjust the temperature? When I pull the round cover off,
I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the plate below but
that pointer is already all the way to the left and moving it to the right
just seems to make the offset error worse.

What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set
point before turning off?


I don't know if such things are available in America but in Europe you
can get an "intelligent thermostat." There is an additional outside
sensor and the heating is switched on earlier in cold weather and
later in warmer weather. The exact amounts depend on the insulation
of your house (nonexistant I expect in America). The thermostat
determines this for itself after the first run. Dependant on your
lifestyle, between 10 and 20% can be knocked off your heating bill.
Some of these devices also compensate for wind .
A digital thermostat can save 10%. It's important that the thermostat
is correctly sited. In Europe every room is independently controlled
in new buildings.




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On Mon, 22 Feb 2010 23:07:14 +0000 (UTC), Glenda Copeland
wrote:

How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature?

My Honeywell round thermostat has a bulb with mercury in it and a coil of
metal that seems to control when it makes electrical contact.

When I set the Honeywell bulb thermostat to 68°F, the heat only gets to
about 58°F. Likewise, when I set the thermostat to 85°F, the heat shuts off
when it reaches about 75°F.

This works fine except my husband keeps yelling at me for setting the
thermostat to 85°.


I'd yell at you too. Who needs 75? Set at 78 and be happy with 68.
Wear a sweater.

I know the simple answer is to change him but why do thermostats have
numbers on them if they're not even close to those numbers?

Is there a way to adjust the temperature? When I pull the round cover off,


Don't pull that cover off. There are electical forces there that will
make your cold cream run.

I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the plate below but
that pointer is already all the way to the left and moving it to the right
just seems to make the offset error worse.


In that case you could risk bending the spring or some other part that
is holding the mercury capsule, but two major concerns. 1) Being a
Mercury Capsule, it might head for earth orbit. 2) A good chance
you'll bend it in the wrong direction (it's confusing) or bend it in
the right direction but so much that the offset pointer won't be able
to correct it. And you only get to bend it once or twice and soon it
will break off. Plus you probably need TWO needlenosses to bend it.

What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set
point before turning off?


You can try to tip the house while holding the thermostat in place.


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On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 16:24:56 -0500, mm
wrote:


I see a copper pointer on the bottom with etch marks on the plate below but
that pointer is already all the way to the left and moving it to the right
just seems to make the offset error worse.


In that case you could risk bending the spring or some other part that


Bad advice by me. I was actually closer with my last line. See
below.

is holding the mercury capsule, but two major concerns. 1) Being a
Mercury Capsule, it might head for earth orbit. 2) A good chance
you'll bend it in the wrong direction (it's confusing) or bend it in
the right direction but so much that the offset pointer won't be able
to correct it. And you only get to bend it once or twice and soon it
will break off. Plus you probably need TWO needlenosses to bend it.

What's the procedure to adjust a Honewell round thermostat to reach the set
point before turning off?


You can try to tip the house while holding the thermostat in place.


This advice was somewhat sarcastic, but it modified just a little, it
was the best advice in my post. If the adjustment with the copper
pointer is insufficient, you can rotate the entire thermostat. The
amount you want to rotate it is the amount it takes to make the number
for example 75 to show up in the same place that currently the number
85 is in. Plus a little more if you want to recenter the copper
pointer. (You now know better than I do how many degrees it is from
end of the scale to the middle with the copper pointer) That would
matter if you want to finish this job with the copper pointer, instead
of remounting the thermostat a bunch of times. You could use
two-sided tape so remounting would go quickly, or you could use
screwws and finish off with the copper pointer.
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On Mon, 22 Feb 2010 23:07:14 +0000 (UTC), Glenda Copeland
wrote:

How do I adjust a thermostat so that the heat reaches the set temperature?


As to buying a new thermostat, people here are often ready to buy new,
to throw money at a problem.

As to accuracy, what does accuracy matter when people don't know if
they want 74.4 or 74.7, or 75.3? And much moreso is it not important
when they want something around 75 and their husband wants something
around 68. Improved accuracy isn't going to help.

Temperature stabilty is adjustable iirc on the round Honeywell
thermostats. It's called cycle delay or something. But one can't
lower it too much because of the furnace, not because of the
thermostat. It's not good for many furnaces to turn off and then turn
on again when the temp drops 0.1 degrees. This is all the more true
for ACs which need time for pressure to go down where it the
refrigerant is compressed. The thermostat comes set for a reasonable
value and it can be lessened if wanted with most furnaces. If it is
also an AC thermostat, either there are two cycle delay adjustments,
the cycle delay applies to the furnace only, or it can't be lowered
more than is safe for the AC.
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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to the right temperature

On Mon, 22 Feb 2010 21:31:01 -0600, bud-- wrote:

To change the leveling you may have to unscrew 2 or 3
recessed screws to remove the thermostat from the baseplate, and loosen
the screws holding the baseplate to the wall. The baseplate has level marks.


Wonderful information.

You've explained items (recessed screws, level marks, etc.) that I could
see but did not understand the use or function.

Thanks for helping me.
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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to theright temperature

On Feb 23, 2:11*pm, harry wrote:
It's important that the thermostat
is correctly sited. *In Europe every room is independently controlled
in new buildings.- Hide quoted text -


That may be an exaggeration. I recently lived in Europe several
years.

The heating I encountered was all hot water radiator (or hydronic - it
is SO nice to step on a heated tile bathroom floor on a cold
morning).

Every radiator had its own thermostat, mounted on the radiator.
That's really not an ideal location. The furnace did have an outdoor
sensor with reset and a time schedule.

Energy was expensive so houses were very well insulated and very
tight.


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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to theright temperature

On Feb 26, 1:27�pm, TimR wrote:
On Feb 23, 2:11�pm, harry wrote:
It's important that the thermostat

is correctly sited. �In Europe every room is independently controlled
in new buildings.- Hide quoted text -


That may be an exaggeration. �I recently lived in Europe several
years.

The heating I encountered was all hot water radiator (or hydronic - it
is SO nice to step on a heated tile bathroom floor on a cold
morning).

Every radiator had its own thermostat, mounted on the radiator.
That's really not an ideal location. �The furnace did have an outdoor
sensor with reset and a time schedule.

Energy was expensive so houses were very well insulated and very
tight.


Yes nearly all heating over here is by means of hot water circulation,
even in very large buildings.The boiler(furnace in your parlance) can
be far more efficient, exceeding 100% in some cases.. Also water is
far easier to mix and control than air. The hot water pipes can be
much smaller diameter than air ducts & therefor can be better
insulated. Domestic hot water can be produced from the same boiler,
as and when required. (No need to store it hence reduced losses.)
Things are expremely primitive in the USA compared with Europe.




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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to theright temperature

On Feb 26, 2:58*pm, harry wrote:
..The boiler(furnace in your parlance) can
be far more efficient, exceeding 100% in some cases.. *


I call it a boiler, too. But it doesn't actually boil anything, so to
avoid confusion I used the word furnace. Sorry if I confused.


Also water is
far easier to mix and control than air. The hot water pipes can be
much smaller diameter than air ducts & therefor can be better
insulated. *Domestic hot water can be produced from the same boiler,
as and when required. (No need to store it hence reduced losses.)
Things are expremely primitive in the USA compared with Europe.-


Well, I'm talking mostly residential, though the office buildings I
saw all had the same kind of hot water heat. There was no air
conditioning except maybe in a computer server room.

Primitive? That's relative. In Germany I saw no VAV, no DDC, no
control systems to speak of, thermostatic control valves on the
radiator where the heat from the unit masks the room conditions,
thermostatic valves that you have to disassemble monthly because they
scale up and always fail to "no heat" condition. No smoke detectors,
heat detectors, CO alarms.

On the other hand, I saw first class furnace/boiler systems in
residential that were well maintained by law, including semiannual
combustion tests and chimney cleaning. And as I mentioned, well
insulated and well sealed; you can get infiltration down to near zero
if you use plaster over masonry and very very expensive double pane
tiltable-closable windows. I wish I could get those in the US but I
couldn't afford it if I could. Even the doors are built with a lip to
seal against the jamb. I was paying 27 cents a kWhr so you can see
why they work hard to save energy.

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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to theright temperature

On Feb 26, 9:24�pm, TimR wrote:
On Feb 26, 2:58�pm, harry wrote:
.The boiler(furnace in your parlance) can

be far more efficient, exceeding 100% in some cases.. �


I call it a boiler, too. �But it doesn't actually boil anything, so to
avoid confusion I used the word furnace. �Sorry if I confused.

�Also water is

far easier to mix and control than air. The hot water pipes can be
much smaller diameter than air ducts & therefor can be better
insulated. �Domestic hot water can be produced from the same boiler,
as and when required. (No need to store it hence reduced losses.)
Things are expremely primitive in the USA compared with Europe.-


Well, I'm talking mostly residential, though the office buildings I
saw all had the same kind of hot water heat. �There was no air
conditioning except maybe in a computer server room.

Primitive? �That's relative. �In Germany I saw no VAV, no DDC, no
control systems to speak of, thermostatic control valves on the
radiator where the heat from the unit masks the room conditions,
thermostatic valves that you have to disassemble monthly because they
scale up and always fail to "no heat" condition. �No smoke detectors,
heat detectors, CO alarms.

On the other hand, I saw first class furnace/boiler systems in
residential that were well maintained by law, including semiannual
combustion tests and chimney cleaning. �And as I mentioned, well
insulated and well sealed; you can get infiltration down to near zero
if you use plaster over masonry and very very expensive double pane
tiltable-closable windows. �I wish I could get those in the US but I
couldn't afford it if I could. �Even the doors are built with a lip to
seal against the jamb. �I was paying 27 cents a kWhr so you can see
why they work hard to save energy.


I live in the UK. My house hase quadruple glazing and 4" insulated
shutters, There's 2' of insulation in the walls and roof. This means
we need no central heating. I have done all the work myself, I used
to be an energy efficiency engineer working for the government.
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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to the right temperature

On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 11:58:45 -0800 (PST), harry
wrote:

On Feb 26, 1:27?pm, TimR wrote:
On Feb 23, 2:11?pm, harry wrote:
It's important that the thermostat

is correctly sited. ?In Europe every room is independently controlled
in new buildings.- Hide quoted text -


That may be an exaggeration. ?I recently lived in Europe several
years.

The heating I encountered was all hot water radiator (or hydronic - it
is SO nice to step on a heated tile bathroom floor on a cold
morning).

Every radiator had its own thermostat, mounted on the radiator.
That's really not an ideal location. ?The furnace did have an outdoor
sensor with reset and a time schedule.

Energy was expensive so houses were very well insulated and very
tight.


Yes nearly all heating over here is by means of hot water circulation,
even in very large buildings.The boiler(furnace in your parlance) can
be far more efficient, exceeding 100% in some cases.. Also water is
far easier to mix and control than air. The hot water pipes can be
much smaller diameter than air ducts & therefor can be better
insulated. Domestic hot water can be produced from the same boiler,
as and when required. (No need to store it hence reduced losses.)
Things are expremely primitive in the USA compared with Europe.


It has nothing to do with the USA being "primitive". There are plenty
of hydronic heating systems in the US, particularly in the Northeast
(fueled by oil, natural gas, or propane), and they do give a nice heat
(though they do take up wall space for radiators or baseboard
convectors). However, you don't get air conditioning with that
distribution system, so forced air is more common anywhere AC is
desirable, now or in the future. Some houses (like the one I grew up
in) do have both, but that's usually the result of retrofitting AC; a
new home is likely to have only one HVAC system.

Josh
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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) tothe right temperature

harry wrote:
On Feb 26, 1:27�pm, TimR wrote:
On Feb 23, 2:11�pm, harry wrote:
It's important that the thermostat

is correctly sited. �In Europe every room is independently controlled
in new buildings.- Hide quoted text -

That may be an exaggeration. �I recently lived in Europe several
years.

The heating I encountered was all hot water radiator (or hydronic - it
is SO nice to step on a heated tile bathroom floor on a cold
morning).

Every radiator had its own thermostat, mounted on the radiator.
That's really not an ideal location. �The furnace did have an outdoor
sensor with reset and a time schedule.

Energy was expensive so houses were very well insulated and very
tight.


Yes nearly all heating over here is by means of hot water circulation,
even in very large buildings.The boiler(furnace in your parlance) can
be far more efficient, exceeding 100% in some cases.. Also water is
far easier to mix and control than air. The hot water pipes can be
much smaller diameter than air ducts & therefor can be better
insulated. Domestic hot water can be produced from the same boiler,
as and when required. (No need to store it hence reduced losses.)
Things are expremely primitive in the USA compared with Europe.



Well, you know how those darn colonies are. They rebel and go their
own way.

TDD
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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to theright temperature

On Feb 27, 10:27*am, harry wrote:
On Feb 26, 9:24 pm, TimR wrote:





On Feb 26, 2:58 pm, harry wrote:
.The boiler(furnace in your parlance) can


be far more efficient, exceeding 100% in some cases..


I call it a boiler, too. But it doesn't actually boil anything, so to
avoid confusion I used the word furnace. Sorry if I confused.


Also water is


far easier to mix and control than air. The hot water pipes can be
much smaller diameter than air ducts & therefor can be better
insulated. Domestic hot water can be produced from the same boiler,
as and when required. (No need to store it hence reduced losses.)
Things are expremely primitive in the USA compared with Europe.-


Well, I'm talking mostly residential, though the office buildings I
saw all had the same kind of hot water heat. There was no air
conditioning except maybe in a computer server room.


Primitive? That's relative. In Germany I saw no VAV, no DDC, no
control systems to speak of, thermostatic control valves on the
radiator where the heat from the unit masks the room conditions,
thermostatic valves that you have to disassemble monthly because they
scale up and always fail to "no heat" condition. No smoke detectors,
heat detectors, CO alarms.


On the other hand, I saw first class furnace/boiler systems in
residential that were well maintained by law, including semiannual
combustion tests and chimney cleaning. And as I mentioned, well
insulated and well sealed; you can get infiltration down to near zero
if you use plaster over masonry and very very expensive double pane
tiltable-closable windows. I wish I could get those in the US but I
couldn't afford it if I could. Even the doors are built with a lip to
seal against the jamb. I was paying 27 cents a kWhr so you can see
why they work hard to save energy.


I live in the UK. *My house hase quadruple glazing and 4" insulated
shutters, * There's 2' of insulation in the walls and roof. This means
we need no central heating. *I have done all the work myself, I used
to be an energy efficiency engineer working for the government.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


quad glazing, 4" shutters, post a photo, is the quad glazing LowEArgon


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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to theright temperature

On Feb 26, 1:58*pm, harry wrote:
On Feb 26, 1:27 pm, TimR wrote:





On Feb 23, 2:11 pm, harry wrote:
It's important that the thermostat


is correctly sited. In Europe every room is independently controlled
in new buildings.- Hide quoted text -


That may be an exaggeration. I recently lived in Europe several
years.


The heating I encountered was all hot water radiator (or hydronic - it
is SO nice to step on a heated tile bathroom floor on a cold
morning).


Every radiator had its own thermostat, mounted on the radiator.
That's really not an ideal location. The furnace did have an outdoor
sensor with reset and a time schedule.


Energy was expensive so houses were very well insulated and very
tight.


Yes nearly all heating over here is by means of hot water circulation,
even in very large buildings.The boiler(furnace in your parlance) can
be far more efficient, exceeding 100% in some cases.. * Also water is
far easier to mix and control than air. The hot water pipes can be
much smaller diameter than air ducts & therefor can be better
insulated. *Domestic hot water can be produced from the same boiler,
as and when required. (No need to store it hence reduced losses.)
Things are expremely primitive in the USA compared with Europe.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


No gas boiler can exceed 100% efficency, I know of none over 98%.
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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to the right temperature

The Daring Dufas wrote:

Well, you know how those darn colonies are. They rebel and go their
own way.

That's revolting.


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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) tothe right temperature

Bob F wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote:

Well, you know how those darn colonies are. They rebel and go their
own way.

That's revolting.


It's revolutionary.

TDD
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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to t...

replying to Lp1331 1p1331, jeroboambramblejam wrote:
Sounds like the sluggish mercury droplet had oxidized somehow - maybe a
manufacturing defect allowed oxygen to enter the glass bulb... Or possibly
excess electric current was allowed to course through the mercury droplet and
change its physical properties. I think they are rated for ~24 volts AC from a
transformer fed with ~120 VAC... If the transformer input side partially
shorted, excess current could have been fed to the thermostat.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...to-426532-.htm


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Default How to adjust honeywell round thermostat (mercury switch) to theright temperature

On Monday, February 22, 2010 at 5:07:14 PM UTC-6,

She froze to death since 2010.
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