I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. I am
trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the
existing wall.

The party/dividing wall is above grade in the living area of the house and
is made of bricks/masonry covered by what seems like either mortar or the
type of "rough coat" material that goes under plaster. I am not sure
exactly what it is, but it seems softer than mortar. On top of that is a
few coats of latex paint. The existing wall is in excellent shape -- flat,
solid, no cracks, etc.

My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing wall?
Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I need to use some type of
fasteners in addition to glue? Maybe just glue it and only use a few screws
to hold it in place while the glue dries? I haven't tried seeing if
sheetrock screws will go into the wall yet, but I can try that. Or, maybe
some kind of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having
to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall.

Also, what type of glue should I be using? I've seen Liquid Nails,
LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose.

The property is a house that I own that will be rented out. The reason that
I am thinking of adding a layer of sheetrock to the party/dividing wall is
to try to help reduce the sound transmission between the two properties. I
do know that just adding sheetrock won't do too much, but I am hoping it
will at least add a little more density to the wall to cut down the sound
transmission at least a little.

On Jan 7, 10:14*am, "Jay-T" wrote:
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. *I am
trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the
existing wall.

The party/dividing wall is above grade in the living area of the house and
is made of bricks/masonry covered by what seems like either mortar or the
type of "rough coat" material that goes under plaster. *I am not sure
exactly what it is, but it seems softer than mortar. *On top of that is a
few coats of latex paint. *The existing wall is in excellent shape -- flat,
solid, no cracks, etc.

My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing wall?
Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I need to use some type of
fasteners in addition to glue? *Maybe just glue it and only use a few screws
to hold it in place while the glue dries? *I haven't tried seeing if
sheetrock screws will go into the wall yet, but I can try that. *Or, maybe
some kind of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having
to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall.

Also, what type of glue should I be using? *I've seen Liquid Nails,
LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose.

The property is a house that I own that will be rented out. *The reason that
I am thinking of adding a layer of sheetrock to the party/dividing wall is
to try to help reduce the sound transmission between the two properties. *I
do know that just adding sheetrock won't do too much, but I am hoping it
will at least add a little more density to the wall to cut down the sound
transmission at least a little.

Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the
wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would allow
you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the furring
strips.

nate

N8N wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote:
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next
door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the
sheetrock to the existing wall.

Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the
wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would allow
you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the furring
strips.

nate

Thanks.

Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of build-out
or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock will already be
pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen cabinets, etc. that
are along or adjacent to the existing wall.

So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to the
existing wall.

On Jan 7, 10:25*am, "Jay-T" wrote:
N8N wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote:
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next
door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the
sheetrock to the existing wall.
Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the
wall and then to attach the drywall to those. *That also would allow
you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the furring
strips.

nate

Thanks.

Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of build-out
or to add furring strips, etc. *Adding just the sheetrock will already be
pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen cabinets, etc. that
are along or adjacent to the existing wall.

So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to the
existing wall.

If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking?

Sound transmission works via a few different mechanisms, so the first
thing to do is to determine which direction the sound will be going,
and what acoustic frequency you are trying to reduce.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_transmission_class

This site has a number of products which might give you some ideas.
http://www.silentsource.com/index.html
Homasote is a good and inexpensive acoustical treatment that is
readily available and easy to work with. Covering it with fabric or
heavy-bodied wallpaper would take care of the aesthetics.

R

"Jay-T" wrote in message
...
N8N wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote:
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next
door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the
sheetrock to the existing wall.

Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the
wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would allow
you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the furring
strips.

nate

Thanks.

Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of
build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock will
already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen
cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing wall.

So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to
the existing wall.


I wonder if the sheetrock would absorb moisture if it was glued?

We used a plastic laminate in a nursing home kitchen. You can get them
textured and they apply directly to the wall.

RicodJour wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:25 am, "Jay-T" wrote:

Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of
build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock
will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim,
kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing
wall.

So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly
to the existing wall.

If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking?

Here is eaxactly what I am asking (from my original post):

My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing wall?
Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I need to use some type of
fasteners in addition to glue? Maybe just glue it and only use a few screws
to hold it in place while the glue dries? I haven't tried seeing if
sheetrock screws will go into the wall yet, but I can try that. Or, maybe
some kind of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having
to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall.

Also, what type of glue should I be using? I've seen Liquid Nails,
LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose.

On Jan 7, 11:16*am, "Jay-T" wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:25 am, "Jay-T" wrote:

Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of
build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock
will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim,
kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing
wall.

So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly
to the existing wall.
If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking?

Here is eaxactly what I am asking (from my original post):

My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing wall?
Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I need to use some type of
fasteners in addition to glue? *Maybe just glue it and only use a few screws
to hold it in place while the glue dries? *I haven't tried seeing if
sheetrock screws will go into the wall yet, but I can try that. *Or, maybe
some kind of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having
to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall.

Also, what type of glue should I be using? *I've seen Liquid Nails,
LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose.

I don't think the sound reduction will warrant the effort, but, be
that as it may, you can use joint compound to glue up the drywall or
pretty much any adhesive caulk you want (if you use enough of it).
You will need to rig up something to brace the boards against the wall
so you won't get any bulging or have a wavy surface. Check out the
USG web site for specifics on bonding with joint compound. Setting-
type compound will shorten the required bracing time significantly.

R

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Jan 7, 11:16 am, "Jay-T" wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:25 am, "Jay-T" wrote:

Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of
build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock
will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim,
kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing
wall.

So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly
to the existing wall.
If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking?

Here is eaxactly what I am asking (from my original post):

My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing
wall?
Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I need to use some type of
fasteners in addition to glue? Maybe just glue it and only use a few
screws
to hold it in place while the glue dries? I haven't tried seeing if
sheetrock screws will go into the wall yet, but I can try that. Or, maybe
some kind of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having
to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall.

Also, what type of glue should I be using? I've seen Liquid Nails,
LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose.

I don't think the sound reduction will warrant the effort, but, be
that as it may, you can use joint compound to glue up the drywall or
pretty much any adhesive caulk you want (if you use enough of it).
You will need to rig up something to brace the boards against the wall
so you won't get any bulging or have a wavy surface. Check out the
USG web site for specifics on bonding with joint compound. Setting-
type compound will shorten the required bracing time significantly.

R

Ditto to the above...Done it many times..I use USG Durabond 45 Setting Type
Joint Compound to glue it on...Just make SURE you have EVERYTHING ready to
go as the compound will set in 45 minutes..ie. tools bracing , help ,
ect..They do have longer times available (90,220) but 45 minutes is enough
if your ready and you'll have to do it in steps as well so the wait till you
can go again is short....5/8 works better as it is more ridgid and won't
look wavy if you don't brace it good...HTH...Oh , it won't make a lick of
difference on your sound problem...But heh , it's your baby...

In ,
Jay-T typed:
N8N wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote:
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next
door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the
sheetrock to the existing wall.

Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the
wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would allow
you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the
furring strips.

nate

Thanks.

Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of
build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock
will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim,
kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing
wall.
So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly
to the existing wall.

Sheetrock isn't going to help noticeably I don't think. Just work around the
interference things, and if it's a closet on the wall, also put foam inside
those. It's not that much more work.

If you use 2 x instead of 1 x you'll be able to use a much more effective
(thicker)foam for the sound deadening.
Don't forget the ceiling, depending on how things are constructed;
especially if it's a hung ceiling - noise will come that way, too. Be
meticulous about plugging any holes thru the wall.
Doors, windows at each end shouldn't be a problem; just work around them.

Twayne


--
--
Live in the moment;
be open to the possibilities
that life has to offer.

In ,
RicodJour typed:
On Jan 7, 10:25 am, "Jay-T" wrote:
N8N wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote:
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next
door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the
sheetrock to the existing wall.
Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to
the wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would
allow you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between
the furring strips.

nate

Thanks.

Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of
build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock
will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim,
kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing
wall.

So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly
to the existing wall.

If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking?

Sound transmission works via a few different mechanisms, so the first
thing to do is to determine which direction the sound will be going,
and what acoustic frequency you are trying to reduce.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_transmission_class

This site has a number of products which might give you some ideas.
http://www.silentsource.com/index.html
Homasote is a good and inexpensive acoustical treatment that is
readily available and easy to work with. Covering it with fabric or
heavy-bodied wallpaper would take care of the aesthetics.

R

Forgot all about homasote; good catch if you can only use 1 x for the
ferring.

Twayne
--
--
Live in the moment;
be open to the possibilities
that life has to offer.

In ,
Jay-T typed:
RicodJour wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:25 am, "Jay-T" wrote:

Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of
build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock
will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim,
kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing
wall.

So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly
to the existing wall.

If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking?

Here is eaxactly what I am asking (from my original post):

My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing
wall?

Glue is good; but sheetrock won't help sound transmission.

Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I need to use
some type of fasteners in addition to glue?

Recommendations are to use ferring strips. You could even make them 2 x if
you want room for more insulator material.

Maybe just glue it and
only use a few screws to hold it in place while the glue dries?

Braces work better; the glues grab quickly.
I
haven't tried seeing if sheetrock screws will go into the wall yet,
but I can try that. Or, maybe some kind of Tapcon screws would be
needed -- but I'd like to avoid having to do a lot of drilling etc.
for a whole wall.
Also, what type of glue should I be using? I've seen Liquid Nails,
LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose.

Go to store; read labels. Seems like Liquid Nails said it's good for
concrete and I know there are several others. Read & pick.

Twayne

--
--
Often you'll find excellent advice on a newsgroup.
Before you use that advice though, consider the
ramifications of it being wrong or even dangerous;
how important IS that to you? It's best to
ALWAYS verify and confirm ANY advice from a
newsgroup!

In ,
Master Betty typed:
"Jay-T" wrote in message
...
N8N wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote:
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next
door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the
sheetrock to the existing wall.

Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to
the wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would
allow you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between
the furring strips.

nate

Thanks.

Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of
build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock
will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim,
kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing
wall. So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock
directly
to the existing wall.


I wonder if the sheetrock would absorb moisture if it was glued?

We used a plastic laminate in a nursing home kitchen. You can get them
textured and they apply directly to the wall.

It might, along the bottom if not properly prepared; depends. The wall with
open space on each side shouldn't in general be a big problem, but ...
that's why they always recomment using ferring strips. Always possible to
use a vapor barrier too if it's a worry; plastic sheeting is cheap.

Twayne


--
--
Live in the moment;
be open to the possibilities
that life has to offer.

Twayne wrote:
In ,
Jay-T typed:
N8N wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote:
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next
door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the
sheetrock to the existing wall.

Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the
wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would allow
you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the
furring strips.

nate

Thanks.

Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of
build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock
will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim,
kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing
wall.
So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly
to the existing wall.

Sheetrock isn't going to help noticeably I don't think. Just work around
the interference things, and if it's a closet on the wall, also put foam
inside those. It's not that much more work.

If you use 2 x instead of 1 x you'll be able to use a much more
effective (thicker)foam for the sound deadening.
Don't forget the ceiling, depending on how things are constructed;
especially if it's a hung ceiling - noise will come that way, too. Be
meticulous about plugging any holes thru the wall.
Doors, windows at each end shouldn't be a problem; just work around them.

Twayne


My mother once had an apartment that had
concrete blocks between
her unit and the next unit. The
concrete block wall had a thin layer of
plaster as the finished surface. I
guess this would work if the blocks
were straight. This would be the
thinest that you could get away with.

"benick" wrote in message
. ..

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...

I don't think the sound reduction will warrant the effort, but, be
that as it may, you can use joint compound to glue up the drywall or
pretty much any adhesive caulk you want (if you use enough of it).
You will need to rig up something to brace the boards against the wall
so you won't get any bulging or have a wavy surface. Check out the
USG web site for specifics on bonding with joint compound. Setting-
type compound will shorten the required bracing time significantly.

R
----------------

Ditto to the above...Done it many times..I use USG Durabond 45 Setting
Type Joint Compound to glue it on...Just make SURE you have EVERYTHING
ready to go as the compound will set in 45 minutes..ie. tools bracing ,
help , ect..They do have longer times available (90,220) but 45 minutes is
enough if your ready and you'll have to do it in steps as well so the wait
till you can go again is short....5/8 works better as it is more ridgid
and won't look wavy if you don't brace it good...HTH...Oh , it won't make
a lick of difference on your sound problem...But heh , it's your baby...

Interesting. I had never heard of using joint compound for something like
this. I have used the 45-minute setting type, which I like, but not for
that. I'm assuming some kind of notched thin set type of trowel would work
best to create an even coating.

"Twayne" wrote in message
...
In ,
Jay-T typed:

My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing
wall?

Glue is good; but sheetrock won't help sound transmission.

Maybe just glue it and
only use a few screws to hold it in place while the glue dries?

Braces work better; the glues grab quickly.

Go to store; read labels. Seems like Liquid Nails said it's good for
concrete and I know there are several others. Read & pick.

I just found this online:

http://www.greengluecompany.com/ .

It "only" costs about $15 per tube, and they "only" recommend using 1 to 3
tubes per 4x8 sheet of drywall! :-)

"Twayne" wrote in message
...
In ,
...... Just work around the interference things,...., If you use 2 x
instead of 1 x you'll be able to use a much more effective (thicker)foam
for the sound deadening......,
Doors, windows at each end shouldn't be a problem; just work around them.

It's hard to describe in a post like this, but there is no way to "work
around" what's there and build out a wall that is even 1 to 1 1/2 inches
thick. There's a door to the basement that is attached to, and
perpendicular to, the party/dividing wall -- and the hinges to that door are
no only 1 1/2 inches from the existing wall. Adding anything more than just
the 1/2 to 5/8 inches of sheetrock would interfere with that door and the
door can't be moved or made smaller. The front door to the house is similar
but with just a little more room. Same for the built-in kitchen cabinets.
I can't get away with adding more than about 1/2 to 5/8 inches there.

"Art Todesco" wrote in message
...
My mother once had an apartment that had concrete blocks between
her unit and the next unit. The concrete block wall had a thin layer of
plaster as the finished surface. I guess this would work if the blocks
were straight. This would be the thinest that you could get away with.

Thanks. The existing party/dividing wall has bricks inside, but a
completely smooth, flat, and hard surface of about 1/2 to 1 inches of "mud"
(mortar-like material) plus paint. So, it is already surfaced in the same
way that plaster serves as the finished surface on some walls.

"Jay-T" wrote in message
...
"benick" wrote in message
. ..

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...

I don't think the sound reduction will warrant the effort, but, be
that as it may, you can use joint compound to glue up the drywall or
pretty much any adhesive caulk you want (if you use enough of it).
You will need to rig up something to brace the boards against the wall
so you won't get any bulging or have a wavy surface. Check out the
USG web site for specifics on bonding with joint compound. Setting-
type compound will shorten the required bracing time significantly.

R
----------------

Ditto to the above...Done it many times..I use USG Durabond 45 Setting
Type Joint Compound to glue it on...Just make SURE you have EVERYTHING
ready to go as the compound will set in 45 minutes..ie. tools bracing ,
help , ect..They do have longer times available (90,220) but 45 minutes
is enough if your ready and you'll have to do it in steps as well so the
wait till you can go again is short....5/8 works better as it is more
ridgid and won't look wavy if you don't brace it good...HTH...Oh , it
won't make a lick of difference on your sound problem...But heh , it's
your baby...

Interesting. I had never heard of using joint compound for something like
this. I have used the 45-minute setting type, which I like, but not for
that. I'm assuming some kind of notched thin set type of trowel would
work best to create an even coating.

Nah...I mix it to about a medium consistancy and I trowl it on with my 10
inch knife but I can get it pretty good by eye...A knotch trowl would
probably work better for a DIYer though...Check the USG website on uses for
Durabond setting type compound....It can even be used to patch concrete
above grade and as a floor leveler....LOL...HTH...

On Thu, 7 Jan 2010 15:49:29 -0500, "Twayne"
wrote:

In ,
RicodJour typed:
On Jan 7, 10:25 am, "Jay-T" wrote:
N8N wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote:
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next
door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the
sheetrock to the existing wall.
Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to
the wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would
allow you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between
the furring strips.

nate

Thanks.

Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of
build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock
will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim,
kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing
wall.

So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly
to the existing wall.

If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking?

Sound transmission works via a few different mechanisms, so the first
thing to do is to determine which direction the sound will be going,
and what acoustic frequency you are trying to reduce.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_transmission_class

This site has a number of products which might give you some ideas.
http://www.silentsource.com/index.html
Homasote is a good and inexpensive acoustical treatment that is
readily available and easy to work with. Covering it with fabric or
heavy-bodied wallpaper would take care of the aesthetics.

R

Forgot all about homasote; good catch if you can only use 1 x for the
ferring.

Twayne
--
But homasote is less forgiving and more easily damaged than even
drywall.

On Jan 7, 8:26*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 7 Jan 2010 15:49:29 -0500, "Twayne"
wrote:





,
RicodJour typed:
On Jan 7, 10:25 am, "Jay-T" wrote:
N8N wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote:
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next
door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the
sheetrock to the existing wall.
Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to
the wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would
allow you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between
the furring strips.

nate

Thanks.

Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of
build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock
will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim,
kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing
wall.

So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly
to the existing wall.

If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking?

Sound transmission works via a few different mechanisms, so the first
thing to do is to determine which direction the sound will be going,
and what acoustic frequency you are trying to reduce.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_transmission_class

This site has a number of products which might give you some ideas.
http://www.silentsource.com/index.html
Homasote is a good and inexpensive acoustical treatment that is
readily available and easy to work with. *Covering it with fabric or
heavy-bodied wallpaper would take care of the aesthetics.

R

Forgot all about homasote; good catch if you can only use 1 x for the
ferring.

Twayne
--

But homasote is less forgiving and more easily damaged than even
drywall.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Can you do something on the other side of the wall????

"hr(bob) " wrote in message
...
On Jan 7, 8:26 pm, wrote:
On Thu, 7 Jan 2010 15:49:29 -0500, "Twayne"
wrote:





,
RicodJour typed:
On Jan 7, 10:25 am, "Jay-T" wrote:
N8N wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote:
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next
door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the
sheetrock to the existing wall.
Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to
the wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would
allow you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between
the furring strips.

nate

Thanks.

Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of
build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock
will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim,
kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing
wall.

So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly
to the existing wall.

If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking?

Sound transmission works via a few different mechanisms, so the first
thing to do is to determine which direction the sound will be going,
and what acoustic frequency you are trying to reduce.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_transmission_class

This site has a number of products which might give you some ideas.
http://www.silentsource.com/index.html
Homasote is a good and inexpensive acoustical treatment that is
readily available and easy to work with. Covering it with fabric or
heavy-bodied wallpaper would take care of the aesthetics.

R

Forgot all about homasote; good catch if you can only use 1 x for the
ferring.

Twayne
--

But homasote is less forgiving and more easily damaged than even
drywall.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Can you do something on the other side of the wall????

Did you even bother reading the first senrence in the O P ???? I suppose he
could buy the house next door...LOL...

On Jan 7, 7:48*pm, "Jay-T" wrote:
"Twayne" wrote in message

...

,
...... Just work around the interference things,...., If you use 2 x
instead of 1 *x you'll be able to use a much more effective (thicker)foam
for the sound deadening......,
*Doors, windows at each end shouldn't be a problem; just work around them.

It's hard to describe in a post like this, but there is no way to "work
around" what's there and build out a wall that is even 1 to 1 1/2 inches
thick. *There's a door to the basement that is attached to, and
perpendicular to, the party/dividing wall -- and the hinges to that door are
no only 1 1/2 inches from the existing wall. *Adding anything more than just
the 1/2 to 5/8 inches of sheetrock would interfere with that door and the
door can't be moved or made smaller. *The front door to the house is similar
but with just a little more room. *Same for the built-in kitchen cabinets.
I can't get away with adding more than about 1/2 to 5/8 inches there.

I'm still not clear on what you are trying to achieve. Are you trying
to reduce the transmission of sound from your space to the neighbor's,
or from the neighbor's to yours? Those are two very different things
and require two different approaches.

R

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Jan 7, 7:48 pm, "Jay-T" wrote:
"Twayne" wrote in message

...

,
...... Just work around the interference things,...., If you use 2 x
instead of 1 x you'll be able to use a much more effective (thicker)foam
for the sound deadening......,
Doors, windows at each end shouldn't be a problem; just work around
them.

It's hard to describe in a post like this, but there is no way to "work
around" what's there and build out a wall that is even 1 to 1 1/2 inches
thick. There's a door to the basement that is attached to, and
perpendicular to, the party/dividing wall -- and the hinges to that door
are
no only 1 1/2 inches from the existing wall. Adding anything more than
just
the 1/2 to 5/8 inches of sheetrock would interfere with that door and the
door can't be moved or made smaller. The front door to the house is
similar
but with just a little more room. Same for the built-in kitchen cabinets.
I can't get away with adding more than about 1/2 to 5/8 inches there.

I'm still not clear on what you are trying to achieve. Are you trying
to reduce the transmission of sound from your space to the neighbor's,
or from the neighbor's to yours? Those are two very different things
and require two different approaches.

R

-------------------

I understand the issues about sound reduction and the limited amount that
can be achieved without building detached isolated walls or barriers etc. I
bought the property as an investment and will be renting it out. Since I am
in the process of finishing repairs, I thought maybe I could do "a little"
to help make it a little quieter for my next door neighbor by slightly
cutting down on noise coming from my future tenants. Knowing that the best
that I could do is maybe cut down the noise transmission a little, I will
only be doing this if it is an easy project -- such as glue up another layer
of sheetrock over the existing party wall.

Jay-T wrote:

I understand the issues about sound reduction and the limited amount
that can be achieved without building detached isolated walls or
barriers etc. I bought the property as an investment and will be
renting it out. Since I am in the process of finishing repairs, I
thought maybe I could do "a little" to help make it a little quieter
for my next door neighbor by slightly cutting down on noise coming
from my future tenants.

Do the next door neighbors *say* there is a problem? I ask because I lived
for 16 years in a condo. The walls between units were poured concrete and
each side had a layer of 1/2" drywall. I never heard a sound from the
neighbors.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Jan 8, 6:30*am, "Jay-T" wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message

...
On Jan 7, 7:48 pm, "Jay-T" wrote:



"Twayne" wrote in message

...

,
...... Just work around the interference things,...., If you use 2 x
instead of 1 x you'll be able to use a much more effective (thicker)foam
for the sound deadening......,
Doors, windows at each end shouldn't be a problem; just work around
them.

It's hard to describe in a post like this, but there is no way to "work
around" what's there and build out a wall that is even 1 to 1 1/2 inches
thick. There's a door to the basement that is attached to, and
perpendicular to, the party/dividing wall -- and the hinges to that door
are
no only 1 1/2 inches from the existing wall. Adding anything more than
just
the 1/2 to 5/8 inches of sheetrock would interfere with that door and the
door can't be moved or made smaller. The front door to the house is
similar
but with just a little more room. Same for the built-in kitchen cabinets.
I can't get away with adding more than about 1/2 to 5/8 inches there.

I'm still not clear on what you are trying to achieve. *Are you trying
to reduce the transmission of sound from your space to the neighbor's,
or from the neighbor's to yours? *Those are two very different things
and require two different approaches.

R

-------------------

I understand the issues about sound reduction and the limited amount that
can be achieved without building detached isolated walls or barriers etc. *I
bought the property as an investment and will be renting it out. *Since I am
in the process of finishing repairs, I thought maybe I could do "a little"
to help make it a little quieter for my next door neighbor by slightly
cutting down on noise coming from my future tenants. *Knowing that the best
that I could do is maybe cut down the noise transmission a little, I will
only be doing this if it is an easy project -- such as glue up another layer
of sheetrock over the existing party wall.

Now we're finally getting somewhere. If you're looking to make it
quieter for the neighbors, you don't need to add mass - the block wall
already has a lot of mass. You're looking for an acoustical surface,
which is why I mentioned the Homasote panels. There are alternatives,
but that method is the best way to save your neighbors tender ears.

Which leads to another question - do you find that there is a problem
now with you hearing the neighbors activities? If not, and assuming
that the construction on the other side of the partition wall is
similar (a good bet), you probably don't have to do anything. DadiOH
asked if the neighbors have complained, which, even if they haven't
would be a good thing to ask them - do you hear me knocking about
through the wall? Is there a problem with asking them?

R

dadiOH wrote:
Jay-T wrote:

I understand the issues about sound reduction and the limited amount
that can be achieved without building detached isolated walls or
barriers etc. I bought the property as an investment and will be
renting it out. Since I am in the process of finishing repairs, I
thought maybe I could do "a little" to help make it a little quieter
for my next door neighbor by slightly cutting down on noise coming
from my future tenants.

Do the next door neighbors *say* there is a problem?

Yes. The neighbor menioned that while I am doing work on the house, if
there is anything that could be done to cut down the noise transmission
between the two properties, that would be great. He said that it is easy to
hear between the two properties -- that the sounds seem to go right through
the walls. He's right about that -- it does. He wasn't complaining, and he
was completely polite about it. He just said that if while I was doing the
work anything along those lines that might help would be great. I said I
wasn't sure what could be done, if anything, or what might work.

Since it is going to be a rental, I am reluctant to put any soft surface on
the walls -- such as acoutic tiles or whatever -- and my reading and
experience says that soft surfaces may not do much anyway. Soft surfaces
apparently reduce echo/in-room issues but don't do much for transmission
issues, contrary to popular opinion. For transmission issues, apparently
the best approach is using one of the isolated wall techniques, and the
second best option is increasing the density of the walls.

You wrote,

I ask because I
lived for 16 years in a condo. The walls between units were poured
concrete and each side had a layer of 1/2" drywall. I never heard a
sound from the neighbors.

I think that is the density concept at work.

In my case, the party wall is an old-time strange type of setup. They seem
to have created some kind of stud, lathe, and plaster-like combination wall,
and then just filled in the spaces using stacked mostly vertical (and some
horizontal) red bricks in between. It's not really a brick wall as in, lay
the bricks on top of each other with mortar in between, the way that a
typical brick wall is made. Instead, the bricks are just there filling up
the space with a few touches of mortar here and there. I never saw
construction like that before. I think maybe there was some concept that
the bricks served as some kind of fire wall or barrier rather than being a
typical structural brick wall. I really don't know what the story was with
that, but the space is "mostly" filled with bricks piled on top of each
other and also a LOT of gaps between the bricks.

RicodJour wrote:

Now we're finally getting somewhere. If you're looking to make it
quieter for the neighbors, you don't need to add mass - the block wall
already has a lot of mass. You're looking for an acoustical surface,
which is why I mentioned the Homasote panels. There are alternatives,
but that method is the best way to save your neighbors tender ears.

Which leads to another question - do you find that there is a problem
now with you hearing the neighbors activities?

Yes. The person next door lives alone, and I am only there sometimes doing
work when he is there. But, in some rooms, like the upstairs bathroom in
particular, it is almost like he is in the same room that I am in. People
who have been doing work there for me have said the same thing -- that you
can "hear everything" from next door.

The bathroom in particular is something I can fix somewhat, I think. Part
of the problem is the old recessed metal medicine cabinet. I took that out
and opened up the wall. I took out the goofy loose bricks in that area, and
I will be figuring out how to refill that space to cut down on the sound
transmission. In that one case, I have access to a fairly large hollow wall
area -- maybe 4 feet by 4 feet, above the ceramic wall tile -- it's a small
bathroom. I am not sure what will go in that space. Some people have said
to stuff fiber glass insulation in there. Maybe that will work -- I don't
know. I have also thought of using that spray foam stuff to fill most of
the void plus a few other techniques, but I am not sure.

But, my original post was about the rest of the party wall between the two
living rooms, bedrooms, etc.

If not, and assuming
that the construction on the other side of the partition wall is
similar (a good bet), you probably don't have to do anything. DadiOH
asked if the neighbors have complained, which, even if they haven't
would be a good thing to ask them - do you hear me knocking about
through the wall? Is there a problem with asking them?

R

On Jan 8, 12:08*am, "benick" wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote in message
Can you do something on the other side of the wall????

Did you even bother reading the first senrence in the O P ???? I suppose he
could buy the house next door...LOL...

He could own the entire building. He may be the landlord.

It would be very unusual to buy half a house, and rent it out.

Personally, though, he is wasting his time. Unless he adds a thickness
of sound-deadening matieral between the masonry and the drywall, all
he's doing is giving Home Depot more of his hard earned money.

However, if he insists on going forward with this asinine idea, he can
just use liquid nails or equivalent construction adhesive.

On Fri, 8 Jan 2010 14:07:32 -0500, "Jay-T"
wrote:

dadiOH wrote:
Jay-T wrote:

I understand the issues about sound reduction and the limited amount
that can be achieved without building detached isolated walls or
barriers etc. I bought the property as an investment and will be
renting it out. Since I am in the process of finishing repairs, I
thought maybe I could do "a little" to help make it a little quieter
for my next door neighbor by slightly cutting down on noise coming
from my future tenants.

Do the next door neighbors *say* there is a problem?

Yes. The neighbor menioned that while I am doing work on the house, if
there is anything that could be done to cut down the noise transmission
between the two properties, that would be great. He said that it is easy to
hear between the two properties -- that the sounds seem to go right through
the walls. He's right about that -- it does. He wasn't complaining, and he
was completely polite about it. He just said that if while I was doing the
work anything along those lines that might help would be great. I said I
wasn't sure what could be done, if anything, or what might work.

Since it is going to be a rental, I am reluctant to put any soft surface on
the walls -- such as acoutic tiles or whatever -- and my reading and
experience says that soft surfaces may not do much anyway. Soft surfaces
apparently reduce echo/in-room issues but don't do much for transmission
issues, contrary to popular opinion. For transmission issues, apparently
the best approach is using one of the isolated wall techniques, and the
second best option is increasing the density of the walls.

You wrote,

I ask because I
lived for 16 years in a condo. The walls between units were poured
concrete and each side had a layer of 1/2" drywall. I never heard a
sound from the neighbors.

I think that is the density concept at work.

In my case, the party wall is an old-time strange type of setup. They seem
to have created some kind of stud, lathe, and plaster-like combination wall,
and then just filled in the spaces using stacked mostly vertical (and some
horizontal) red bricks in between. It's not really a brick wall as in, lay
the bricks on top of each other with mortar in between, the way that a
typical brick wall is made. Instead, the bricks are just there filling up
the space with a few touches of mortar here and there. I never saw
construction like that before. I think maybe there was some concept that
the bricks served as some kind of fire wall or barrier rather than being a
typical structural brick wall. I really don't know what the story was with
that, but the space is "mostly" filled with bricks piled on top of each
other and also a LOT of gaps between the bricks.

It's like the old post and beam rubble infil houses of the early 18th
century. Grandad's house had basically a barn frame with gravel and
lime over loose stone and rubble infil, covered in stucco on the
outside and plaster on the inside. Colder than a cave in the winter!!!

On Fri, 8 Jan 2010 11:46:29 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Jan 8, 12:08Â*am, "benick" wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote in message
Can you do something on the other side of the wall????

Did you even bother reading the first senrence in the O P ???? I suppose he
could buy the house next door...LOL...

He could own the entire building. He may be the landlord.

It would be very unusual to buy half a house, and rent it out.

Happens all the time. Think semi-detached homes.
Or 1/3, 1/4, 1/6 etc. Think urban row-housing.
Or 1/20 or more - think Condo complex.

Personally, though, he is wasting his time. Unless he adds a thickness
of sound-deadening matieral between the masonry and the drywall, all
he's doing is giving Home Depot more of his hard earned money.

However, if he insists on going forward with this asinine idea, he can
just use liquid nails or equivalent construction adhesive.

And give home depot a lot more money than he would using the "right"
material - the setting compound.

Thanks. That looks interesting. After seeing what you posted, I copied
this from a different page on the same webiste. The questions are all
clickable links.


Sound

1. What Johns Manville products provide the best sound control?

2. What is the difference between a thermal fiber glass batt and an
acoustic fiber glass batt?

3. Can I use the Blown In Blanket System (BIBS) for sound control
applications?

4. Are there advantages to using steel studs vs. wood studs?

5. What are resilient channels and where are they sold?




DanG wrote:
Install a resilient channel to the masonry wall with Topcon type
fasteners. Install drywall to the resilient channel.

http://www.jm.com/insulation/faqs/996.htm


"Jay-T" wrote in message
...
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next
door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the
sheetrock to the existing wall.

The party/dividing wall is above grade in the living area of the
house and is made of bricks/masonry covered by what seems like
either mortar or the type of "rough coat" material that goes
under plaster. I am not sure exactly what it is, but it seems
softer than mortar. On top of that is a few coats of latex
paint. The existing wall is in excellent shape -- flat, solid,
no cracks, etc.

My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the
existing wall? Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I
need to use some type of fasteners in addition to glue? Maybe
just glue it and only use a few screws to hold it in place while
the glue dries? I haven't tried seeing if sheetrock screws will
go into the wall yet, but I can try that. Or, maybe some kind
of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having
to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall.

Also, what type of glue should I be using? I've seen Liquid
Nails, LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose.

The property is a house that I own that will be rented out. The
reason that I am thinking of adding a layer of sheetrock to the
party/dividing wall is to try to help reduce the sound
transmission between the two properties. I do know that just
adding sheetrock won't do too much, but I am hoping it will at
least add a little more density to the wall to cut down the
sound transmission at least a little.

Oops. The links were clickable before I posted them. I guess they got
converted to plain text. They were from the following page under the
sub-heading "Sound":

http://www.jm.com/insulation/faqs/902.htm

Jay-T wrote:
Thanks. That looks interesting. After seeing what you posted, I
copied this from a different page on the same webiste. The questions
are all clickable links.


Sound

1. What Johns Manville products provide the best sound control?

2. What is the difference between a thermal fiber glass batt
and an acoustic fiber glass batt?

3. Can I use the Blown In Blanket System (BIBS) for sound
control applications?

4. Are there advantages to using steel studs vs. wood studs?

5. What are resilient channels and where are they sold?




DanG wrote:
Install a resilient channel to the masonry wall with Topcon type
fasteners. Install drywall to the resilient channel.

http://www.jm.com/insulation/faqs/996.htm


"Jay-T" wrote in message
...
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next
door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the
sheetrock to the existing wall.

The party/dividing wall is above grade in the living area of the
house and is made of bricks/masonry covered by what seems like
either mortar or the type of "rough coat" material that goes
under plaster. I am not sure exactly what it is, but it seems
softer than mortar. On top of that is a few coats of latex
paint. The existing wall is in excellent shape -- flat, solid,
no cracks, etc.

My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the
existing wall? Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I
need to use some type of fasteners in addition to glue? Maybe
just glue it and only use a few screws to hold it in place while
the glue dries? I haven't tried seeing if sheetrock screws will
go into the wall yet, but I can try that. Or, maybe some kind
of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having
to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall.

Also, what type of glue should I be using? I've seen Liquid
Nails, LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose.

The property is a house that I own that will be rented out. The
reason that I am thinking of adding a layer of sheetrock to the
party/dividing wall is to try to help reduce the sound
transmission between the two properties. I do know that just
adding sheetrock won't do too much, but I am hoping it will at
least add a little more density to the wall to cut down the
sound transmission at least a little.

Install a resilient channel to the masonry wall with Topcon type
fasteners. Install drywall to the resilient channel.

http://www.jm.com/insulation/faqs/996.htm

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Jay-T" wrote in message
...
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next
door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the
sheetrock to the existing wall.

The party/dividing wall is above grade in the living area of the
house and is made of bricks/masonry covered by what seems like
either mortar or the type of "rough coat" material that goes
under plaster. I am not sure exactly what it is, but it seems
softer than mortar. On top of that is a few coats of latex
paint. The existing wall is in excellent shape -- flat, solid,
no cracks, etc.

My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the
existing wall? Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I
need to use some type of fasteners in addition to glue? Maybe
just glue it and only use a few screws to hold it in place while
the glue dries? I haven't tried seeing if sheetrock screws will
go into the wall yet, but I can try that. Or, maybe some kind
of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having
to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall.

Also, what type of glue should I be using? I've seen Liquid
Nails, LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose.

The property is a house that I own that will be rented out. The
reason that I am thinking of adding a layer of sheetrock to the
party/dividing wall is to try to help reduce the sound
transmission between the two properties. I do know that just
adding sheetrock won't do too much, but I am hoping it will at
least add a little more density to the wall to cut down the
sound transmission at least a little.