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#1
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Remove toilet in basement
Hello,
There is a toilet in our basement that I think hasn't been used for years (we moved in last year). I'd like to remove it. The flange and pipe are metal. What do I need to do to cap the sewer line. I don't think I will ever want to hook this toilet up again. Thanks |
#2
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Remove toilet in basement
BTW, this is in a corner of the basement so I don't really care if
it's level to the floor. I'm just going to put some shelving in that corner. Thanks |
#3
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Remove toilet in basement
Mash wrote:
Hello, There is a toilet in our basement that I think hasn't been used for years (we moved in last year). I'd like to remove it. The flange and pipe are metal. What do I need to do to cap the sewer line. I don't think I will ever want to hook this toilet up again. Thanks You won't, but the next owner will. Normal toilet, or one of the special up-flush models? If the latter, those are expensive and a pain to find. And is there a sink, or the pipes for one, and a shower as well? If next owner wants a playroom or man-cave in basement, bathroom or working stubs for one can be a big selling point. If your heart is set on ripping it out, cap the pipes cleanly, so they can be reused, and build the shelves around it. Bottom shelf in a basement setting should be a few inches off the floor anyway, in case it floods. If you don't know how to cap pipes, pay the few bucks for a plumber to do it. For just the sewer, plumbing aisle at the borg should have bolt-on gasketed caps that will plug it well. -- aem sends... |
#4
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Remove toilet in basement
On Dec 4, 8:29*am, Van Chocstraw
wrote: Mash wrote: Hello, There is a toilet in our basement that I think hasn't been used for years (we moved in last year). I'd like to remove it. The flange and pipe are metal. What do I need to do to cap the sewer line. I don't think I will ever want to hook this toilet up again. Thanks Why don't you use it? It's there. We have two bathrooms upstairs so I really don't need the 3rd toilet. I'd rather use the space for storage. |
#5
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Remove toilet in basement
On Dec 4, 8:10*am, aemeijers wrote:
Mash wrote: Hello, There is a toilet in our basement that I think hasn't been used for years (we moved in last year). I'd like to remove it. The flange and pipe are metal. What do I need to do to cap the sewer line. I don't think I will ever want to hook this toilet up again. Thanks You won't, but the next owner will. Normal toilet, or one of the special up-flush models? If the latter, those are expensive and a pain to find. And is there a sink, or the pipes for one, and a shower as well? *If next owner wants a playroom or man-cave in basement, bathroom or working stubs for one can be a big selling point. If your heart is set on ripping it out, cap the pipes cleanly, so they can be reused, and build the shelves around it. Bottom shelf in a basement setting should be a few inches off the floor anyway, in case it floods. If you don't know how to cap pipes, pay the few bucks for a plumber to do it. For just the sewer, plumbing aisle at the borg should have bolt-on gasketed caps that will plug it well. -- aem sends... Thanks. It's just the toilet, no sink or shower. I would definitely rather just cap it than rip it out, so I'll look for the bolt-on cap that you mentioned. |
#6
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Remove toilet in basement
On Dec 4, 8:10*am, aemeijers wrote:
Mash wrote: Hello, There is a toilet in our basement that I think hasn't been used for years (we moved in last year). I'd like to remove it. The flange and pipe are metal. What do I need to do to cap the sewer line. I don't think I will ever want to hook this toilet up again. Thanks You won't, but the next owner will. Normal toilet, or one of the special up-flush models? If the latter, those are expensive and a pain to find. And is there a sink, or the pipes for one, and a shower as well? *If next owner wants a playroom or man-cave in basement, bathroom or working stubs for one can be a big selling point. If your heart is set on ripping it out, cap the pipes cleanly, so they can be reused, and build the shelves around it. Bottom shelf in a basement setting should be a few inches off the floor anyway, in case it floods. If you don't know how to cap pipes, pay the few bucks for a plumber to do it. For just the sewer, plumbing aisle at the borg should have bolt-on gasketed caps that will plug it well. -- aem sends... Oh, and the toilet is just a normal one. So yeah, I think the best is to leave everything in place and just cap...I actually plan on finishing a portion of the basement and who knows, I might want a toilet down there someday in the distant future when my kids are teenagers or something. I'll go to home depot and see if they have a cap. Do I need to remove the flange to put the cap on? |
#7
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Remove toilet in basement
If it's not 1.6 galon per flush, the toilet may be valuable
on the used market. Capping the line for the next owner to use later makes a lot of sense. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Mash" wrote in message ... We have two bathrooms upstairs so I really don't need the 3rd toilet. I'd rather use the space for storage. |
#8
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Remove toilet in basement
On Dec 4, 9:04*am, Mash wrote:
On Dec 4, 8:10*am, aemeijers wrote: Mash wrote: Hello, There is a toilet in our basement that I think hasn't been used for years (we moved in last year). I'd like to remove it. The flange and pipe are metal. What do I need to do to cap the sewer line. I don't think I will ever want to hook this toilet up again. Thanks You won't, but the next owner will. Normal toilet, or one of the special up-flush models? If the latter, those are expensive and a pain to find. And is there a sink, or the pipes for one, and a shower as well? *If next owner wants a playroom or man-cave in basement, bathroom or working stubs for one can be a big selling point. If your heart is set on ripping it out, cap the pipes cleanly, so they can be reused, and build the shelves around it. Bottom shelf in a basement setting should be a few inches off the floor anyway, in case it floods. If you don't know how to cap pipes, pay the few bucks for a plumber to do it. For just the sewer, plumbing aisle at the borg should have bolt-on gasketed caps that will plug it well. -- aem sends... Oh, and the toilet is just a normal one. So yeah, *I think the best is to leave everything in place and just cap...I actually plan on finishing a portion of the basement and who knows, I might want a toilet down there someday in the distant future when my kids are teenagers or something. I'll go to home depot and see if they have a cap. Do I need to remove the flange to put the cap on?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - "I might want a toilet down there someday in the distant future when my kids are teenagers or something." I don't know how many teenagers you plan on having, but for a while I had 4. When we moved in we had a full bath on the 2nd floor and a very, very rough toilet & shower in the basement. Slab floor, crooked 2 x 2 open stud walls, etc. The wife wouldn't even use it. I gutted it and put in a new toilet, shower stall and sink. With 6 people, 2 bathrooms were barely enough. I sure wish we had room for a powder room on the 1st floor. |
#9
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Remove toilet in basement
On Dec 4, 6:08*am, Mash wrote:
Hello, There is a toilet in our basement that I think hasn't been used for years (we moved in last year). I'd like to remove it. The flange and pipe are metal. What do I need to do to cap the sewer line. I don't think I will ever want to hook this toilet up again. Thanks You can get rubber plugs in a variety of diameters at HD or Lowes. They have a bolt thru the middle and you tighten it to expand the plug until it is tight. All you need is a fairly smooth inside surface on the location where the plug will be installed as it can expand about 1/2 inch for a 3 or 4 inch diameter when tightened down all the way. You definitely need to leave the capability to reinstall a toilet in the future as it is a big selling point. |
#10
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Remove toilet in basement
On Dec 4, 11:54*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote: On Dec 4, 6:08*am, Mash wrote: Hello, There is a toilet in our basement that I think hasn't been used for years (we moved in last year). I'd like to remove it. The flange and pipe are metal. What do I need to do to cap the sewer line. I don't think I will ever want to hook this toilet up again. Thanks You *can get rubber plugs in a variety of diameters at HD or Lowes. They have a bolt thru the middle and you tighten it to expand the plug until it is tight. *All you need is a fairly smooth inside surface on the location where the plug will be installed as it can expand about 1/2 inch for a 3 or 4 inch diameter when tightened down all the way. You definitely need to leave the capability to reinstall a toilet in the future as it is a big selling point. Can the rubber plugs be left in for years? Or will they corrode after some time? Thanks everyone for the input |
#11
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Remove toilet in basement
On Dec 4, 12:47*pm, Mash wrote:
On Dec 4, 11:54*am, "hr(bob) " wrote: On Dec 4, 6:08*am, Mash wrote: Hello, There is a toilet in our basement that I think hasn't been used for years (we moved in last year). I'd like to remove it. The flange and pipe are metal. What do I need to do to cap the sewer line. I don't think I will ever want to hook this toilet up again. Thanks You *can get rubber plugs in a variety of diameters at HD or Lowes. They have a bolt thru the middle and you tighten it to expand the plug until it is tight. *All you need is a fairly smooth inside surface on the location where the plug will be installed as it can expand about 1/2 inch for a 3 or 4 inch diameter when tightened down all the way. You definitely need to leave the capability to reinstall a toilet in the future as it is a big selling point. Can the rubber plugs be left in for years? Or will they corrode after some time? Thanks everyone for the input There is one plugging the floor drain in our basement laundry room - not sure why the previous owners installed it but no trouble with it for the 15 years we've been in the house. -- H |
#12
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Remove toilet in basement
On Dec 4, 1:47*pm, Mash wrote:
On Dec 4, 11:54*am, "hr(bob) " wrote: On Dec 4, 6:08*am, Mash wrote: Hello, There is a toilet in our basement that I think hasn't been used for years (we moved in last year). I'd like to remove it. The flange and pipe are metal. What do I need to do to cap the sewer line. I don't think I will ever want to hook this toilet up again. Thanks You *can get rubber plugs in a variety of diameters at HD or Lowes. They have a bolt thru the middle and you tighten it to expand the plug until it is tight. *All you need is a fairly smooth inside surface on the location where the plug will be installed as it can expand about 1/2 inch for a 3 or 4 inch diameter when tightened down all the way. You definitely need to leave the capability to reinstall a toilet in the future as it is a big selling point. Can the rubber plugs be left in for years? Or will they corrode after some time? Thanks everyone for the input- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - A decent plug should last for many, many years. Here's a tip to check the plug: After you install the plug, lay some toilet paper on the floor with the ends just covering the seam between the plug and the flange. Then have someone flush one of the upstairs toilets. If the toilet paper doesn't move, then odds are you have no air leakage. |
#14
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Remove toilet in basement
Stormin Mormon wrote:
If it's not 1.6 galon per flush, the toilet may be valuable on the used market. Capping the line for the next owner to use later makes a lot of sense. Low flow toilets work better than the old ones. http://www.americanstandard-us.com/v..._Flushing_Demo |
#15
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Remove toilet in basement
On Dec 4, 9:04*am, Mash wrote:
I'll go to home depot and see if they have a cap. Do I need to remove the flange to put the cap on? No. When you get the cap, installation will be obvious, but I will describe it here anyway: The cap simply bolts on in place of the toilet. Two bolts. |
#16
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Remove toilet in basement
Tony wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote: If it's not 1.6 galon per flush, the toilet may be valuable on the used market. Capping the line for the next owner to use later makes a lot of sense. Low flow toilets work better than the old ones. http://www.americanstandard-us.com/v..._Flushing_Demo Giggle |
#17
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Remove toilet in basement
wrote:
On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 15:16:07 -0500, Tony wrote: wrote: If that is an older toilet with a large tank, I advise you to retain it. If you ever do desire a toilet in the basement, it will perform much better than new low flow units will down there. Most decent mid priced low flow toilets work just fine, higher end ones are even better. In fact the good low flow toilets work better than many old toilets that use much more water. The complete kits for $99.99 are ****. You get what you pay for. I lost track of when I installed an American Standard Champion 4. Probably over 6 months ago. I do know that I have never had to plunge it, or even flush it twice to finish the job. Guaranteed to flush something like 14 golf balls, although I seldom eat golf balls and when I do I chew them. Check this out: http://www.americanstandard-us.com/v..._Flushing_Demo Tony - I know all of that already. This toilet is IN THE BASEMENT, where you don't have much gravity to help your toilet flush. It makes a gigantic difference. I hope you are joking or mixing up "gravity" with some other word. I never noticed feeling lighter when down in the basement! ;-) In case you were serious, toilets actually work by siphon action. The siphon action in the toilet itself, nothing to do with the plumbing. Once it gets to the plumbing there is no siphon action due to the vent. |
#18
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Remove toilet in basement
Not true, I have a Toto toilet that will out perform any thing on the
market. Maybe you never heard of Toto , do a little research on it. wrote in message news On Fri, 4 Dec 2009 06:04:23 -0800 (PST), Mash wrote: On Dec 4, 8:10 am, aemeijers wrote: Mash wrote: Hello, There is a toilet in our basement that I think hasn't been used for years (we moved in last year). I'd like to remove it. The flange and pipe are metal. What do I need to do to cap the sewer line. I don't think I will ever want to hook this toilet up again. Thanks You won't, but the next owner will. Normal toilet, or one of the special up-flush models? If the latter, those are expensive and a pain to find. And is there a sink, or the pipes for one, and a shower as well? If next owner wants a playroom or man-cave in basement, bathroom or working stubs for one can be a big selling point. If your heart is set on ripping it out, cap the pipes cleanly, so they can be reused, and build the shelves around it. Bottom shelf in a basement setting should be a few inches off the floor anyway, in case it floods. If you don't know how to cap pipes, pay the few bucks for a plumber to do it. For just the sewer, plumbing aisle at the borg should have bolt-on gasketed caps that will plug it well. -- aem sends... Oh, and the toilet is just a normal one. So yeah, I think the best is to leave everything in place and just cap...I actually plan on finishing a portion of the basement and who knows, I might want a toilet down there someday in the distant future when my kids are teenagers or something. I'll go to home depot and see if they have a cap. Do I need to remove the flange to put the cap on? If that is an older toilet with a large tank, I advise you to retain it. If you ever do desire a toilet in the basement, it will perform much better than new low flow units will down there. |
#19
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Remove toilet in basement
On Dec 4, 3:55�pm, "pacca" wrote:
Not true, I have a Toto toilet that will out perform any thing on the market. Maybe you never heard of Toto , do a little research on it. \ Isnt Toto the toilet that sounds like a 747 at takeoff? a friend has one, they rarely flush at nite, cause it wakes the entire family |
#20
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Remove toilet in basement
Mash wrote:
On Dec 4, 11:54 am, "hr(bob) " wrote: On Dec 4, 6:08 am, Mash wrote: Hello, There is a toilet in our basement that I think hasn't been used for years (we moved in last year). I'd like to remove it. The flange and pipe are metal. What do I need to do to cap the sewer line. I don't think I will ever want to hook this toilet up again. Thanks You can get rubber plugs in a variety of diameters at HD or Lowes. They have a bolt thru the middle and you tighten it to expand the plug until it is tight. All you need is a fairly smooth inside surface on the location where the plug will be installed as it can expand about 1/2 inch for a 3 or 4 inch diameter when tightened down all the way. You definitely need to leave the capability to reinstall a toilet in the future as it is a big selling point. Can the rubber plugs be left in for years? Or will they corrode after some time? Thanks everyone for the input I'd go with a gasketed bolt-down lid, that is fitted to the flange just like a toilet is. If borg doesn't have them, a real plumbing supply will. Or just fabricate one from thick sheet metal, and install it over a fresh non-wax toilet ring tall enough to make a good seal. Yeah, inflated rubber will rot at some point, and you will get sewer smells (or worse, backups), in the basement. I've even seen it done with a layer of rubber gasket material from auto parts store, and bolted-down disc of plywood. Not like it has to stand a lot of pressure or anything. -- aem sends... |
#21
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Remove toilet in basement
wrote:
On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 15:48:56 -0500, Tony wrote: wrote: On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 15:16:07 -0500, Tony wrote: wrote: If that is an older toilet with a large tank, I advise you to retain it. If you ever do desire a toilet in the basement, it will perform much better than new low flow units will down there. Most decent mid priced low flow toilets work just fine, higher end ones are even better. In fact the good low flow toilets work better than many old toilets that use much more water. The complete kits for $99.99 are ****. You get what you pay for. I lost track of when I installed an American Standard Champion 4. Probably over 6 months ago. I do know that I have never had to plunge it, or even flush it twice to finish the job. Guaranteed to flush something like 14 golf balls, although I seldom eat golf balls and when I do I chew them. Check this out: http://www.americanstandard-us.com/v..._Flushing_Demo Tony - I know all of that already. This toilet is IN THE BASEMENT, where you don't have much gravity to help your toilet flush. It makes a gigantic difference. I hope you are joking or mixing up "gravity" with some other word. I never noticed feeling lighter when down in the basement! ;-) Have you noticed any difference in the effort required to walk uphill compared to walking downhill? In case you were serious, toilets actually work by siphon action. The siphon action in the toilet itself, nothing to do with the plumbing. Once it gets to the plumbing there is no siphon action due to the vent. You have much to learn. OP never said what level his sewer outflow pipe was at. In modern subdivisions, they are usually partway up basement wall, but if this is an older urban house or a sloped lot or something, his sewer outflow could actually be low enough for a conventional toilet to work in the basement. All depends on how level of basement slab relates to sewer main level. My basement slab is actually slightly above street level, but no sewers out here. -- aem sends... |
#22
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Remove toilet in basement
HeyBub wrote:
Tony wrote: Stormin Mormon wrote: If it's not 1.6 galon per flush, the toilet may be valuable on the used market. Capping the line for the next owner to use later makes a lot of sense. Low flow toilets work better than the old ones. http://www.americanstandard-us.com/v..._Flushing_Demo Giggle Mine works just like the video, except with a real load. I think it takes less than 2 seconds to completely flush. |
#23
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Remove toilet in basement
wrote:
On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 15:48:56 -0500, Tony wrote: wrote: On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 15:16:07 -0500, Tony wrote: wrote: If that is an older toilet with a large tank, I advise you to retain it. If you ever do desire a toilet in the basement, it will perform much better than new low flow units will down there. Most decent mid priced low flow toilets work just fine, higher end ones are even better. In fact the good low flow toilets work better than many old toilets that use much more water. The complete kits for $99.99 are ****. You get what you pay for. I lost track of when I installed an American Standard Champion 4. Probably over 6 months ago. I do know that I have never had to plunge it, or even flush it twice to finish the job. Guaranteed to flush something like 14 golf balls, although I seldom eat golf balls and when I do I chew them. Check this out: http://www.americanstandard-us.com/v..._Flushing_Demo Tony - I know all of that already. This toilet is IN THE BASEMENT, where you don't have much gravity to help your toilet flush. It makes a gigantic difference. I hope you are joking or mixing up "gravity" with some other word. I never noticed feeling lighter when down in the basement! ;-) Have you noticed any difference in the effort required to walk uphill compared to walking downhill? OH! You must be talking about the flush up toilets! I missed where the OP said it was one of them. Lots of basement floors are above the septic line. In case you were serious, toilets actually work by siphon action. The siphon action in the toilet itself, nothing to do with the plumbing. Once it gets to the plumbing there is no siphon action due to the vent. You have much to learn. Can you teach me? |
#24
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Remove toilet in basement
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#25
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Remove toilet in basement
Stormin Mormon wrote:
If it's not 1.6 galon per flush, the toilet may be valuable on the used market. Capping the line for the next owner to use later makes a lot of sense. I managed to find a friebie taker for one high flow toilet. He had a cabin with a well and didn't care. Two others I gave up and broke them up with a sledgehammer, and disposed of them in the garbage. Not a high demand item. |
#26
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Remove toilet in basement
On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 16:39:20 -0500, aemeijers
wrote: wrote: On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 15:48:56 -0500, Tony wrote: wrote: On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 15:16:07 -0500, Tony wrote: wrote: If that is an older toilet with a large tank, I advise you to retain it. If you ever do desire a toilet in the basement, it will perform much better than new low flow units will down there. Most decent mid priced low flow toilets work just fine, higher end ones are even better. In fact the good low flow toilets work better than many old toilets that use much more water. The complete kits for $99.99 are ****. You get what you pay for. I lost track of when I installed an American Standard Champion 4. Probably over 6 months ago. I do know that I have never had to plunge it, or even flush it twice to finish the job. Guaranteed to flush something like 14 golf balls, although I seldom eat golf balls and when I do I chew them. Check this out: http://www.americanstandard-us.com/v..._Flushing_Demo Tony - I know all of that already. This toilet is IN THE BASEMENT, where you don't have much gravity to help your toilet flush. It makes a gigantic difference. I hope you are joking or mixing up "gravity" with some other word. I never noticed feeling lighter when down in the basement! ;-) Have you noticed any difference in the effort required to walk uphill compared to walking downhill? In case you were serious, toilets actually work by siphon action. The siphon action in the toilet itself, nothing to do with the plumbing. Once it gets to the plumbing there is no siphon action due to the vent. You have much to learn. OP never said what level his sewer outflow pipe was at. In modern subdivisions, they are usually partway up basement wall, but if this is an older urban house or a sloped lot or something, his sewer outflow could actually be low enough for a conventional toilet to work in the basement. All depends on how level of basement slab relates to sewer main level. My basement slab is actually slightly above street level, but no sewers out here. I know all this stuff. My pipe is in the basement floor and exits the house many feet below grade. Being that flow from the basement toilet is on that essentially horizontal run means that a low flow toilet often doesn't push the waste far enough in the pipe, and it can build up just outside the toilet, causing subsequent flushes to be less effective and prone to backing up. Upstairs, the waste leaves the toilet and has a significant drop which gets it well clear of the toilet, preventing buildup or backups. A low flow toilet model that works very well on my first floor, did not work well in my basement. The only difference being the 8 or 10 foot vertical drop from the first floor toilet down to the horizontal line in the basement floor. In other words, I actually have low flow toilets in my house and they work fine when used in conjuction with gravity (upstairs) to keep the line near the toilet clear. I have actually installed the same model in my basement, where it is mounted directly to the line in the floor, and it didn't work well. I put the original toilet back and the new one is sitting uninstalled elsewhere in the basement. I'm not guessing. I have first hand experience. I'm not against low flow toilets. I have them on 2 floors of my house and they are completely trouble free. They just don't work as well in the basement. I like them enough that I went out and bought one to replace a perfectly good working OLD toilet in my basement. If it had worked, I would have been pleased. It didn't. |
#27
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Remove toilet in basement
On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 17:20:49 -0500, Tony
wrote: wrote: On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 15:48:56 -0500, Tony wrote: wrote: On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 15:16:07 -0500, Tony wrote: wrote: If that is an older toilet with a large tank, I advise you to retain it. If you ever do desire a toilet in the basement, it will perform much better than new low flow units will down there. Most decent mid priced low flow toilets work just fine, higher end ones are even better. In fact the good low flow toilets work better than many old toilets that use much more water. The complete kits for $99.99 are ****. You get what you pay for. I lost track of when I installed an American Standard Champion 4. Probably over 6 months ago. I do know that I have never had to plunge it, or even flush it twice to finish the job. Guaranteed to flush something like 14 golf balls, although I seldom eat golf balls and when I do I chew them. Check this out: http://www.americanstandard-us.com/v..._Flushing_Demo Tony - I know all of that already. This toilet is IN THE BASEMENT, where you don't have much gravity to help your toilet flush. It makes a gigantic difference. I hope you are joking or mixing up "gravity" with some other word. I never noticed feeling lighter when down in the basement! ;-) Have you noticed any difference in the effort required to walk uphill compared to walking downhill? OH! You must be talking about the flush up toilets! I missed where the OP said it was one of them. Lots of basement floors are above the septic line. No, I'm not talking about flushing uphill, Tony. Let's try this again. Do you notice any diffence in energy required to ride a bicycle on a flat road compared to riding a bicycle down a hill? In case you were serious, toilets actually work by siphon action. The siphon action in the toilet itself, nothing to do with the plumbing. Once it gets to the plumbing there is no siphon action due to the vent. You have much to learn. Can you teach me? That's a good question. So far, you seem pretty slow to understand things. |
#28
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Remove toilet in basement
On Fri, 4 Dec 2009 14:28:15 -0800, "Bob F"
wrote: wrote: On Fri, 4 Dec 2009 14:55:15 -0600, "pacca" wrote: Not true, I have a Toto toilet that will out perform any thing on the market. Maybe you never heard of Toto , do a little research on it. I OWN 3 Toto toilets. They work great - on the first and second floor. I tried one in my basement and it didn't perform as well as the old toilet being replaced, so I took it out and put the old one back. So is that where your claim of not working in the basement comes from? One sample? One very clear example where 3 identical toilets sharing one waste line have different performance. The two toilets that work well are almost directly above the one in the basement. There is very little that is different except the one in the basement is mounted directly to the wasteline in the slab, and lacks any vertical drop like the one that the other two toilets take advantage of to work properly. If the basement is plumbed properly, it should make no difference. You are guessing. I am not guessing. The basement is plumbed properly. Proof of that is that the original toilet WHICH I PUT BACK AFTER THE LOW FLOW DIDN"T WORK WELL, works perfectly and has never had a problem or backed up in the 20 years or so I've been here. |
#29
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Remove toilet in basement
wrote:
On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 17:20:49 -0500, Tony wrote: wrote: On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 15:48:56 -0500, Tony wrote: wrote: On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 15:16:07 -0500, Tony wrote: wrote: If that is an older toilet with a large tank, I advise you to retain it. If you ever do desire a toilet in the basement, it will perform much better than new low flow units will down there. Most decent mid priced low flow toilets work just fine, higher end ones are even better. In fact the good low flow toilets work better than many old toilets that use much more water. The complete kits for $99.99 are ****. You get what you pay for. I lost track of when I installed an American Standard Champion 4. Probably over 6 months ago. I do know that I have never had to plunge it, or even flush it twice to finish the job. Guaranteed to flush something like 14 golf balls, although I seldom eat golf balls and when I do I chew them. Check this out: http://www.americanstandard-us.com/v..._Flushing_Demo Tony - I know all of that already. This toilet is IN THE BASEMENT, where you don't have much gravity to help your toilet flush. It makes a gigantic difference. I hope you are joking or mixing up "gravity" with some other word. I never noticed feeling lighter when down in the basement! ;-) Have you noticed any difference in the effort required to walk uphill compared to walking downhill? OH! You must be talking about the flush up toilets! I missed where the OP said it was one of them. Lots of basement floors are above the septic line. No, I'm not talking about flushing uphill, Tony. Let's try this again. Do you notice any diffence in energy required to ride a bicycle on a flat road compared to riding a bicycle down a hill? That depends on what gear I'm in uphill vs. downhill. In case you were serious, toilets actually work by siphon action. The siphon action in the toilet itself, nothing to do with the plumbing. Once it gets to the plumbing there is no siphon action due to the vent. You have much to learn. Can you teach me? That's a good question. So far, you seem pretty slow to understand things. Ok, I got it! Your toto toilet doesn't work well in the basement due to differences in _your_ plumbing, so that means _all_ low flow toilets will not work well in basements. |
#30
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Remove toilet in basement
On Sat, 05 Dec 2009 09:26:09 -0500, Tony
wrote: wrote: On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 17:20:49 -0500, Tony wrote: wrote: On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 15:48:56 -0500, Tony wrote: wrote: On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 15:16:07 -0500, Tony wrote: wrote: If that is an older toilet with a large tank, I advise you to retain it. If you ever do desire a toilet in the basement, it will perform much better than new low flow units will down there. Most decent mid priced low flow toilets work just fine, higher end ones are even better. In fact the good low flow toilets work better than many old toilets that use much more water. The complete kits for $99.99 are ****. You get what you pay for. I lost track of when I installed an American Standard Champion 4. Probably over 6 months ago. I do know that I have never had to plunge it, or even flush it twice to finish the job. Guaranteed to flush something like 14 golf balls, although I seldom eat golf balls and when I do I chew them. Check this out: http://www.americanstandard-us.com/v..._Flushing_Demo Tony - I know all of that already. This toilet is IN THE BASEMENT, where you don't have much gravity to help your toilet flush. It makes a gigantic difference. I hope you are joking or mixing up "gravity" with some other word. I never noticed feeling lighter when down in the basement! ;-) Have you noticed any difference in the effort required to walk uphill compared to walking downhill? OH! You must be talking about the flush up toilets! I missed where the OP said it was one of them. Lots of basement floors are above the septic line. No, I'm not talking about flushing uphill, Tony. Let's try this again. Do you notice any diffence in energy required to ride a bicycle on a flat road compared to riding a bicycle down a hill? That depends on what gear I'm in uphill vs. downhill. You just failed the test badly. In case you were serious, toilets actually work by siphon action. The siphon action in the toilet itself, nothing to do with the plumbing. Once it gets to the plumbing there is no siphon action due to the vent. You have much to learn. Can you teach me? That's a good question. So far, you seem pretty slow to understand things. Ok, I got it! Your toto toilet doesn't work well in the basement due to differences in _your_ plumbing, so that means _all_ low flow toilets will not work well in basements. No, obviously you "don't got it". |
#31
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Remove toilet in basement
No not true, there fast and quit , the city of Seattle did a study on
virtually every 1.6 gal toilets, Toto came in # 1 in all categories, you can find it on the web with a search . wrote in message ... On Dec 4, 3:55�pm, "pacca" wrote: Not true, I have a Toto toilet that will out perform any thing on the market. Maybe you never heard of Toto , do a little research on it. \ Isnt Toto the toilet that sounds like a 747 at takeoff? a friend has one, they rarely flush at nite, cause it wakes the entire family |
#32
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Remove toilet in basement
"pacca" wrote in message ... No not true, there fast and quit , the city of Seattle did a study on virtually every 1.6 gal toilets, Toto came in # 1 in all categories, you can find it on the web with a search . wrote in message ... On Dec 4, 3:55?pm, "pacca" wrote: Not true, I have a Toto toilet that will out perform any thing on the market. Maybe you never heard of Toto , do a little research on it. \ Isnt Toto the toilet that sounds like a 747 at takeoff? a friend has one, they rarely flush at nite, cause it wakes the entire family Some of the older low water toilets used a power flush that could be heard miles away. New ones are the same noise level as the old five gallon models. There are a few good ones available from all the companies now. |
#33
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Remove toilet in basement
On Sat, 5 Dec 2009 09:16:29 -0600, "pacca" wrote:
No not true, there fast and quit , the city of Seattle did a study on virtually every 1.6 gal toilets, Toto came in # 1 in all categories, you can find it on the web with a search . wrote in message ... On Dec 4, 3:55?pm, "pacca" wrote: Not true, I have a Toto toilet that will out perform any thing on the market. Maybe you never heard of Toto , do a little research on it. \ Isnt Toto the toilet that sounds like a 747 at takeoff? a friend has one, they rarely flush at nite, cause it wakes the entire family There are some low flow toilets that have a pressurized tank in them with a bladder or diaphram that stores the water utilizing the 40-50 pounds of pressure in the domestic water supply to give them a boost. Those are pretty noisy when they flush. |
#34
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Remove toilet in basement
On Sat, 5 Dec 2009 11:01:40 -0500, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote: "pacca" wrote in message ... No not true, there fast and quit , the city of Seattle did a study on virtually every 1.6 gal toilets, Toto came in # 1 in all categories, you can find it on the web with a search . wrote in message ... On Dec 4, 3:55?pm, "pacca" wrote: Not true, I have a Toto toilet that will out perform any thing on the market. Maybe you never heard of Toto , do a little research on it. \ Isnt Toto the toilet that sounds like a 747 at takeoff? a friend has one, they rarely flush at nite, cause it wakes the entire family Some of the older low water toilets used a power flush that could be heard miles away. New ones are the same noise level as the old five gallon models. There are a few good ones available from all the companies now. The American Standard Cadets are pretty good. I know several people who have them. They are relatively inexpensive. |
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