[[email protected]]

I'm tired of people telling me that there's nothing wrong with my
furnace. There is something wrong with my furnace.

It's a 10-year-old Amana 45,000 BTU, 80% efficient unit in a 1300
square foot ranch style house. This is my 4th winter in this house,
and I'm sick of being limited to one habitable room all winter.

The air coming out of the vents is cool, around 70 degreees according
to my thermometer. The exhaust to the chimney is smokin' hot. The
plenum does not get perceptibly warm.

I change the filter regularly. The old filter comes out visibly just
as clean as the new filter I put in. There is plenty of airflow
through the unit, as I can feel the cold draft hit my feet from across
the room when the furnace kicks in.

The flames are steady and clean blue.

I have to close off all the bedrooms and heat only the living room and
kitchen during the coldest months, otherwise the furnace would run
24/7 and the temperature would never get above 62.

The pros say there's nothing wrong.

[Lefty[_2_]]

wrote in message
...
I'm tired of people telling me that there's nothing wrong with my
furnace. There is something wrong with my furnace.

It's a 10-year-old Amana 45,000 BTU, 80% efficient unit in a 1300
square foot ranch style house. This is my 4th winter in this house,
and I'm sick of being limited to one habitable room all winter.

The air coming out of the vents is cool, around 70 degreees according
to my thermometer. The exhaust to the chimney is smokin' hot. The
plenum does not get perceptibly warm.

I change the filter regularly. The old filter comes out visibly just
as clean as the new filter I put in. There is plenty of airflow
through the unit, as I can feel the cold draft hit my feet from across
the room when the furnace kicks in.

The flames are steady and clean blue.

I have to close off all the bedrooms and heat only the living room and
kitchen during the coldest months, otherwise the furnace would run
24/7 and the temperature would never get above 62.

The pros say there's nothing wrong.

Something's wrong, but you did'nt say where you are loacted. In my area,
you may need a furnace of 65,000-77,000 input to do the job for that house.
And it sounds like your blower may be going way too fast. All are really
guesses though, given the information it really takes to make a proper size
analysis. You need tro try another pro; especially one who will look at the
whole building, as well as the heating plant.

HTH, Lefty

[ransley]

On Nov 4, 2:20*pm, wrote:
I'm tired of people telling me that there's nothing wrong with my
furnace. There is something wrong with my furnace.

It's a 10-year-old Amana 45,000 BTU, 80% efficient unit in a 1300
square foot ranch style house. This is my 4th winter in this house,
and I'm sick of being limited to one habitable room all winter.

The air coming out of the vents is cool, around 70 degreees according
to my thermometer. The exhaust to the chimney is smokin' hot. The
plenum does not get perceptibly warm.

I change the filter regularly. The old filter comes out visibly just
as clean as the new filter I put in. There is plenty of airflow
through the unit, as I can feel the cold draft hit my feet from across
the room when the furnace kicks in.

The flames are steady and clean blue.

I have to close off all the bedrooms and heat only the living room and
kitchen during the coldest months, otherwise the furnace would run
24/7 and the temperature would never get above 62.

The pros say there's nothing wrong.

You do have AC right, have you actualy looked at the AC coil, my
neighbor got a house where the AC coil passed no air it was so
clogged, but you still need a Pro, not the hacks youve had out for
beer money.

[DT[_2_]]

In article
,
says...
I'm tired of people telling me that there's nothing wrong with my
furnace. There is something wrong with my furnace.

It's a 10-year-old Amana 45,000 BTU, 80% efficient unit in a 1300
square foot ranch style house. This is my 4th winter in this house,
and I'm sick of being limited to one habitable room all winter.

The air coming out of the vents is cool, around 70 degreees according
to my thermometer. The exhaust to the chimney is smokin' hot. The
plenum does not get perceptibly warm.


Boy, it sure doesn't seem right. I have a 10 year old, 80% efficient
60,000 btu Armstrong furnace for my 1500 sf house in northern Ohio. It
puts out 115 degree air at the register closest to the furnace. The
double walled flue is hot, but I can place my hand on it. The plenum is,
of course, quite hot. I insulated it with high temperature fiberglass.

The house is well insulated with ducted returns and easily heats all
rooms over 70 degrees in 15 below zero weather, and only runs about half
the time under those conditions.

For starters, is the rerun air ducted, or is it an open return system?



--
Dennis

[[email protected]]

On Nov 4, 3:40*pm, ransley wrote:
On Nov 4, 2:20*pm, wrote:





I'm tired of people telling me that there's nothing wrong with my
furnace. There is something wrong with my furnace.

It's a 10-year-old Amana 45,000 BTU, 80% efficient unit in a 1300
square foot ranch style house. This is my 4th winter in this house,
and I'm sick of being limited to one habitable room all winter.

The air coming out of the vents is cool, around 70 degreees according
to my thermometer. The exhaust to the chimney is smokin' hot. The
plenum does not get perceptibly warm.

I change the filter regularly. The old filter comes out visibly just
as clean as the new filter I put in. There is plenty of airflow
through the unit, as I can feel the cold draft hit my feet from across
the room when the furnace kicks in.

The flames are steady and clean blue.

I have to close off all the bedrooms and heat only the living room and
kitchen during the coldest months, otherwise the furnace would run
24/7 and the temperature would never get above 62.

The pros say there's nothing wrong.

You do have AC right, have you actualy looked at the AC coil, my
neighbor got a house where the AC coil passed no air it was so
clogged, but you still need a Pro, not the hacks youve had out for
beer money.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm located in Rochester NY for the record, and I do have central
air.

There are two ratings on the furnace, one is 45,000BTU and the other
is 61,500BTU, but the furnace was made in Quebec and everything
written on it is in FRENCH! Online translators were no help in
figuring out what the tag says...

[dpb]

wrote:
....

There are two ratings on the furnace, one is 45,000BTU and the other
is 61,500BTU, but the furnace was made in Quebec and everything
written on it is in FRENCH! Online translators were no help in
figuring out what the tag says...

One would presume those are either input/output ratings or gas/LP,
perhaps as a secondary possibility.

Undoubtedly there's somebody on group that could decipher the amount of
French on an equipment tag...

Failing that, undoubtedly there would be translation in Amana
documentation on their site???

--

[EXT]

wrote:
On Nov 4, 3:40 pm, ransley wrote:
On Nov 4, 2:20 pm, wrote:





I'm tired of people telling me that there's nothing wrong with my
furnace. There is something wrong with my furnace.

It's a 10-year-old Amana 45,000 BTU, 80% efficient unit in a 1300
square foot ranch style house. This is my 4th winter in this
house, and I'm sick of being limited to one habitable room all
winter.

The air coming out of the vents is cool, around 70 degreees
according to my thermometer. The exhaust to the chimney is
smokin' hot. The plenum does not get perceptibly warm.

I change the filter regularly. The old filter comes out visibly
just as clean as the new filter I put in. There is plenty of
airflow through the unit, as I can feel the cold draft hit my
feet from across the room when the furnace kicks in.

The flames are steady and clean blue.

I have to close off all the bedrooms and heat only the living
room and kitchen during the coldest months, otherwise the furnace
would run 24/7 and the temperature would never get above 62.

The pros say there's nothing wrong.

You do have AC right, have you actualy looked at the AC coil, my
neighbor got a house where the AC coil passed no air it was so
clogged, but you still need a Pro, not the hacks youve had out for
beer money.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm located in Rochester NY for the record, and I do have central
air.

There are two ratings on the furnace, one is 45,000BTU and the other
is 61,500BTU, but the furnace was made in Quebec and everything
written on it is in FRENCH! Online translators were no help in
figuring out what the tag says...

The two BTU ratings are input and output. With a 61,500 input, your furnace
in not designed to deliver 80% efficiency. You have less than 75% with a
45,000 output. Whatever the rating, you need someone competent to service
the furnace.

[Jules[_2_]]

On Wed, 04 Nov 2009 12:20:37 -0800, mkirsch1 wrote:
The air coming out of the vents is cool, around 70 degreees according
to my thermometer. The exhaust to the chimney is smokin' hot. The
plenum does not get perceptibly warm.

Can you get a thermometer into the plenum at all and check there (or at
least whatever register's closest to the plenum)? Our system loses an
insane amount of heat in the ductwork and there's about 40 degrees
difference between the register nearest the furnace and the one furthest
away (I did post actual numbers the other week, but can't remember what
thread that was in, and I don't have them written down)

Never tested the exhaust temp on ours. Maybe they always run hot at that
point.

Just wondering if your problem's the furnace or the ductwork...

[dpb]

DT wrote:
....

For starters, is the rerun air ducted, or is it an open return system?

More to the point might be are the hot air runs insulated and/or in
unheated spaces (like attic/crawlspace) or is there a break somewhere
(like a flexible boot at the plenum outlet?) or a closed internal damper
or, or, or, ...???

--

[[email protected]]

On Nov 4, 4:40*pm, Jules
wrote:
On Wed, 04 Nov 2009 12:20:37 -0800, mkirsch1 wrote:
The air coming out of the vents is cool, around 70 degreees according
to my thermometer. The exhaust to the chimney is smokin' hot. The
plenum does not get perceptibly warm.

Can you get a thermometer into the plenum at all and check there (or at
least whatever register's closest to the plenum)? Our system loses an
insane amount of heat in the ductwork and there's about 40 degrees
difference between the register nearest the furnace and the one furthest
away (I did post actual numbers the other week, but can't remember what
thread that was in, and I don't have them written down)

Never tested the exhaust temp on ours. Maybe they always run hot at that
point.

Just wondering if your problem's the furnace or the ductwork...

I used an infrared thermometer on the vent near the middle of a
heating cycle when the air coming out felt the warmest. The
temperature was in the low 70's.

Ductwork is all uninsulated in a full basement.

[[email protected]]

On Nov 4, 4:14*pm, DT wrote:
In article
,
says...

I'm tired of people telling me that there's nothing wrong with my
furnace. There is something wrong with my furnace.

It's a 10-year-old Amana 45,000 BTU, 80% efficient unit in a 1300
square foot ranch style house. This is my 4th winter in this house,
and I'm sick of being limited to one habitable room all winter.

The air coming out of the vents is cool, around 70 degreees according
to my thermometer. The exhaust to the chimney is smokin' hot. The
plenum does not get perceptibly warm.

Boy, it sure doesn't seem right. I have a 10 year old, 80% efficient
60,000 btu Armstrong furnace for my 1500 sf house in northern Ohio. It
puts out 115 degree air at the register closest to the furnace. The
double walled flue is hot, but I can place my hand on it. The plenum is,
of course, quite hot. I insulated it with high temperature fiberglass.

The house is well insulated with ducted returns and easily heats all
rooms over 70 degrees in 15 below zero weather, and only runs about half
the time under those conditions.

For starters, is the rerun air ducted, or is it an open return system?

The return air is ducted.

[dpb]

wrote:
....

Ductwork is all uninsulated in a full basement.

Well, DOH!!! Nice and toasty down there, I'd wager...

--

[Colbyt]

wrote in message
...
I'm tired of people telling me that there's nothing wrong with my
furnace. There is something wrong with my furnace.

It's a 10-year-old Amana 45,000 BTU, 80% efficient unit in a 1300
square foot ranch style house. This is my 4th winter in this house,
and I'm sick of being limited to one habitable room all winter.

The pros say there's nothing wrong.

The furnace may be working 100% correct but is way too small for the job you
are asking it to do.

I live in a much milder climate, Kentucky, have 2 -- 75,000 input rated
units at 80%, one on each level, 1300 square foot per level. All ductwork
is fully insulated. They work fine and can recover from the night time set
back of 10 degrees until the temp gets down in the teens and then I can not
set back more than 5 degrees. 1995 construction, walls R-13, about 8" of
attic insulation, brick construction with a full, unfinished, unheated
basement.

If your AC works fine and you have good air flow at the registers then a
blocked A coil is not you problem. You could have a limit control problem
that a hasty tech did not stick around long enough to discover.



--
Colbyt
Please come visit www.househomerepair.com

[[email protected]]

On Wed, 04 Nov 2009 16:32:18 -0600, dpb wrote:

wrote:
...

Ductwork is all uninsulated in a full basement.

Well, DOH!!! Nice and toasty down there, I'd wager...

Standard procedure in a full basement is to use bare, uninsulated
ducts. I'm 100 miles or more north of Rochester in Ontario -
50,000/75000 BTU (2 stage) 80% efficiency furnace keeps my 1300 =/- sq
ft house warm for under $700 a year.AFAIK it has never kicked up to
high rate.The 600 sq ft basement is also heated.

[Stormin Mormon]

I'm in a suburb of Rochester. Want me to drive over, and
take a look? Yeah, I know. Everyone on the list says I'm a
total hack. I know, I know.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

I'm located in Rochester NY for the record, and I do have
central
air.

There are two ratings on the furnace, one is 45,000BTU and
the other
is 61,500BTU, but the furnace was made in Quebec and
everything
written on it is in FRENCH! Online translators were no help
in
figuring out what the tag says...

[Stormin Mormon]

It sounds like something is totally wrong. Happy to come
over and take a look, if you wish. I'm in the phone book.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...
I'm tired of people telling me that there's nothing wrong
with my
furnace. There is something wrong with my furnace.

It's a 10-year-old Amana 45,000 BTU, 80% efficient unit in a
1300
square foot ranch style house. This is my 4th winter in this
house,
and I'm sick of being limited to one habitable room all
winter.

The air coming out of the vents is cool, around 70 degreees
according
to my thermometer. The exhaust to the chimney is smokin'
hot. The
plenum does not get perceptibly warm.

I change the filter regularly. The old filter comes out
visibly just
as clean as the new filter I put in. There is plenty of
airflow
through the unit, as I can feel the cold draft hit my feet
from across
the room when the furnace kicks in.

The flames are steady and clean blue.

I have to close off all the bedrooms and heat only the
living room and
kitchen during the coldest months, otherwise the furnace
would run
24/7 and the temperature would never get above 62.

The pros say there's nothing wrong.

[Stormin Mormon]

Probably BTU input and output. It's common for furnace to
list input which is total heat produced, and output to the
house. Since there is air flow, that's got me wondering.
Have to come out and see it, to get some ideas.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"dpb" wrote in message
...
wrote:
....

There are two ratings on the furnace, one is 45,000BTU and
the other
is 61,500BTU, but the furnace was made in Quebec and
everything
written on it is in FRENCH! Online translators were no
help in
figuring out what the tag says...

One would presume those are either input/output ratings or
gas/LP,
perhaps as a secondary possibility.

Undoubtedly there's somebody on group that could decipher
the amount of
French on an equipment tag...

Failing that, undoubtedly there would be translation in
Amana
documentation on their site???

--

[Stormin Mormon]

I knew it! Already people are slamming me!

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"EXT" wrote in message
anews.com...
Whatever the rating, you need someone competent to service
the furnace.

[Stormin Mormon]

Would be interesting if the duct is broken some where, and
the suction from the return air is moving all the air. But,
he said the plenum doesn't warm up.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"dpb" wrote in message
...


More to the point might be are the hot air runs insulated
and/or in
unheated spaces (like attic/crawlspace) or is there a break
somewhere
(like a flexible boot at the plenum outlet?) or a closed
internal damper
or, or, or, ...???

--

[Stormin Mormon]

That's not good.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

I used an infrared thermometer on the vent near the middle
of a
heating cycle when the air coming out felt the warmest. The
temperature was in the low 70's.

Ductwork is all uninsulated in a full basement.

[Stormin Mormon]

Of course, that's totally possible. Bad fan limit switch.
I've seen that before.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Van Chocstraw" wrote in
message
...

Your stack controls are out of adjustment. The blower should
cut off at
80. It should cut on at 100.

[dpb]

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Probably BTU input and output. ...

Isn't that what "One would presume those are .. input/output ratings"
says???

I gave an alternate outside chance possibility but clearly stated it as
such...

--

[dpb]

wrote:
On Wed, 04 Nov 2009 16:32:18 -0600, dpb wrote:

wrote:
...

Ductwork is all uninsulated in a full basement.
Well, DOH!!! Nice and toasty down there, I'd wager...

Standard procedure in a full basement is to use bare, uninsulated
ducts. I'm 100 miles or more north of Rochester in Ontario -
50,000/75000 BTU (2 stage) 80% efficiency furnace keeps my 1300 =/- sq
ft house warm for under $700 a year.AFAIK it has never kicked up to
high rate.The 600 sq ft basement is also heated.

Well, certainly isn't here and it gets pretty cold as well...0F and
below pretty common...

--

[cshenk]

wrote
dpb wrote:

Ductwork is all uninsulated in a full basement.
Well, DOH!!! Nice and toasty down there, I'd wager...

Standard procedure in a full basement is to use bare, uninsulated
ducts. I'm 100 miles or more north of Rochester in Ontario -
50,000/75000 BTU (2 stage) 80% efficiency furnace keeps my 1300 =/- sq
ft house warm for under $700 a year.AFAIK it has never kicked up to
high rate.The 600 sq ft basement is also heated.

Yup. Deliberate too. It's to protect the pipes from freezing.

[dpb]

cshenk wrote:
wrote
dpb wrote:

Ductwork is all uninsulated in a full basement.
Well, DOH!!! Nice and toasty down there, I'd wager...

Standard procedure in a full basement is to use bare, uninsulated
ducts. I'm 100 miles or more north of Rochester in Ontario -
50,000/75000 BTU (2 stage) 80% efficiency furnace keeps my 1300 =/- sq
ft house warm for under $700 a year.AFAIK it has never kicked up to
high rate.The 600 sq ft basement is also heated.

Yup. Deliberate too. It's to protect the pipes from freezing.

Well, here it isn't--they'll duct it normally w/ vents in used space.
Seems a terrible waste otherwise to heat w/o any control all that volume.

--

[dpb]

dpb wrote:
....

Well, here it isn't--they'll duct it normally w/ vents in used space.
Seems a terrible waste otherwise to heat w/o any control all that volume.

Anything built in the last 20 years or so anyway, that is. Back in the
60s and earlier one saw lots of things done that make no sense
whatsoever under today's operating costs. That sorta' changed in the
70s and by 80s pretty much gone around here.

--

[Stormin Mormon]

I reply to messages as I scroll through. I do not read all
the replies before commenting.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"dpb" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Probably BTU input and output. ...

Isn't that what "One would presume those are .. input/output
ratings"
says???

I gave an alternate outside chance possibility but clearly
stated it as
such...

--

[Tony Hwang]

wrote:
I'm tired of people telling me that there's nothing wrong with my
furnace. There is something wrong with my furnace.

It's a 10-year-old Amana 45,000 BTU, 80% efficient unit in a 1300
square foot ranch style house. This is my 4th winter in this house,
and I'm sick of being limited to one habitable room all winter.

The air coming out of the vents is cool, around 70 degreees according
to my thermometer. The exhaust to the chimney is smokin' hot. The
plenum does not get perceptibly warm.

I change the filter regularly. The old filter comes out visibly just
as clean as the new filter I put in. There is plenty of airflow
through the unit, as I can feel the cold draft hit my feet from across
the room when the furnace kicks in.

The flames are steady and clean blue.

I have to close off all the bedrooms and heat only the living room and
kitchen during the coldest months, otherwise the furnace would run
24/7 and the temperature would never get above 62.

The pros say there's nothing wrong.
Hi,
To me the furnace is a bit undersized to begin with.
First thing first,
If blower motor has a speed tap, it should run slower than when in
cooling mode.(warm air is light vs. cold air) Does cooling mode work OK
in summer? Had a look at evaporator coil? Is it clean?

[Ed Pawlowski]

wrote in message
...
I'm tired of people telling me that there's nothing wrong with my
furnace. There is something wrong with my furnace.

It's a 10-year-old Amana 45,000 BTU, 80% efficient unit in a 1300
square foot ranch style house. This is my 4th winter in this house,
and I'm sick of being limited to one habitable room all winter.

The air coming out of the vents is cool, around 70 degreees according
to my thermometer. The exhaust to the chimney is smokin' hot. The
plenum does not get perceptibly warm.

The pros say there's nothing wrong.

My first thought is that the unit is a bit on the small size for that house
but I don't know the construction. That said, if it has been there for 10
years it must have done the job at some point. You should be getting more
than 70 degree air While the stack will be hot, it may be much more than
needed. Sounds like there could be a problem with the heat exchanger if
heated air is getting by. I think what you really need as a more competent
service tech. They should be taking the temperature of both the stack and
the plenum.

[[email protected]]

On Wed, 4 Nov 2009 18:11:57 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:


wrote in message
...
I'm tired of people telling me that there's nothing wrong with my
furnace. There is something wrong with my furnace.

It's a 10-year-old Amana 45,000 BTU, 80% efficient unit in a 1300
square foot ranch style house. This is my 4th winter in this house,
and I'm sick of being limited to one habitable room all winter.

The pros say there's nothing wrong.

The furnace may be working 100% correct but is way too small for the job you
are asking it to do.

I live in a much milder climate, Kentucky, have 2 -- 75,000 input rated
units at 80%, one on each level, 1300 square foot per level. All ductwork
is fully insulated. They work fine and can recover from the night time set
back of 10 degrees until the temp gets down in the teens and then I can not
set back more than 5 degrees. 1995 construction, walls R-13, about 8" of
attic insulation, brick construction with a full, unfinished, unheated
basement.

If your AC works fine and you have good air flow at the registers then a
blocked A coil is not you problem. You could have a limit control problem
that a hasty tech did not stick around long enough to discover.


That furnace is NOT undersized if the house is reasonably well
insulated. The only reason the furnace in my house is as big as it is,
is I could not buy one smaller. Perfect size would have the furnace
running full time on the coldest day to maintain temperature. My
furnace has NEVER run over 8 hours in a day. - which means at 50,000
BTU it is TOO BIG. You loose a LOT of efficiency if the unit is too
big.

[Tony Hwang]

Colbyt wrote:
wrote in message
...
I'm tired of people telling me that there's nothing wrong with my
furnace. There is something wrong with my furnace.

It's a 10-year-old Amana 45,000 BTU, 80% efficient unit in a 1300
square foot ranch style house. This is my 4th winter in this house,
and I'm sick of being limited to one habitable room all winter.

The pros say there's nothing wrong.

The furnace may be working 100% correct but is way too small for the job you
are asking it to do.

I live in a much milder climate, Kentucky, have 2 -- 75,000 input rated
units at 80%, one on each level, 1300 square foot per level. All ductwork
is fully insulated. They work fine and can recover from the night time set
back of 10 degrees until the temp gets down in the teens and then I can not
set back more than 5 degrees. 1995 construction, walls R-13, about 8" of
attic insulation, brick construction with a full, unfinished, unheated
basement.

If your AC works fine and you have good air flow at the registers then a
blocked A coil is not you problem. You could have a limit control problem
that a hasty tech did not stick around long enough to discover.



Hi,
If it is limit control problem, flame will be off with blower running.
Easy to see it.

[dpb]

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I reply to messages as I scroll through. I do not read all
the replies before commenting.
you should damn well at least read the message to which you _do_ reply.

--

[[email protected]]

On Nov 4, 6:33*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Of course, that's totally possible. Bad fan limit switch.
I've seen that before.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Van Chocstraw" wrote in
...

Your stack controls are out of adjustment. The blower should
cut off at
80. It should cut on at 100.


What temp the fan cuts on and off at doesn't explain how he has only
70F air coming out of the vents with the furnace fired and running
steady and why most of the house is cold.

[ransley]

On Nov 5, 7:52*am, wrote:
On Nov 4, 6:33*pm, "Stormin Mormon"





wrote:
Of course, that's totally possible. Bad fan limit switch.
I've seen that before.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Van Chocstraw" wrote in
...

Your stack controls are out of adjustment. The blower should
cut off at
80. It should cut on at 100.

What temp the fan cuts on and off at doesn't explain how he has only
70F air coming out of the vents with the furnace fired and running
steady and why most of the house is cold.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It can be explained by a clogged AC coil, I saw that once at a friends
house, we just removed it for the winter and he got heat until he had
time to powerwash it. Has he or anyone even looked at his AC coil yet,
nope I bet not.

[[email protected][_2_]]

ransley wrote:
On Nov 5, 7:52 am, wrote:
On Nov 4, 6:33 pm, "Stormin Mormon"





wrote:
Of course, that's totally possible. Bad fan limit switch.
I've seen that before.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Van Chocstraw" wrote in
...
Your stack controls are out of adjustment. The blower should
cut off at
80. It should cut on at 100.
What temp the fan cuts on and off at doesn't explain how he has only
70F air coming out of the vents with the furnace fired and running
steady and why most of the house is cold.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It can be explained by a clogged AC coil, I saw that once at a friends
house, we just removed it for the winter and he got heat until he had
time to powerwash it. Has he or anyone even looked at his AC coil yet,
nope I bet not.

Just for future reference, how would a clogged AC coil cause the issue?
I barely understand basics of HVAC )

[Stormin Mormon]

Both the heat air and the AC air go through the AC coil. If
the AC coil is clogged, you won't get much air flow through
the furnace.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
m...
It can be explained by a clogged AC coil, I saw that once
at a friends
house, we just removed it for the winter and he got heat
until he had
time to powerwash it. Has he or anyone even looked at his
AC coil yet,
nope I bet not.

Just for future reference, how would a clogged AC coil cause
the issue?
I barely understand basics of HVAC )

[hr(bob) [email protected]]

On Nov 5, 10:37*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Both the heat air and the AC air go through the AC coil. If
the AC coil is clogged, you won't get much air flow through
the furnace.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

wrote in message

m...

It can be explained by a clogged AC coil, I saw that once
at a friends
house, we just removed it for the winter and he got heat
until he had
time to powerwash it. Has he or anyone even looked at his
AC coil yet,
nope I bet not.

Just for future reference, how would a clogged AC coil cause
the issue?
* I barely understand basics of HVAC )

If the air flow is low, the over-temperature sensor may cut off the
heat whether it is gas or oil-fired, causing not enough heat. It
could also be a bad sensor, or a sensor that is set too low that is
the problem.

[[email protected]]

On Nov 4, 5:32*pm, dpb wrote:
Ductwork is all uninsulated in a full basement.

Well, DOH!!! *Nice and toasty down there, I'd wager...

Nope, it's actually COLDER.

[[email protected]]

On Thu, 5 Nov 2009 07:32:02 -0800 (PST), ransley
wrote:

On Nov 5, 7:52Â*am, wrote:
On Nov 4, 6:33Â*pm, "Stormin Mormon"





wrote:
Of course, that's totally possible. Bad fan limit switch.
I've seen that before.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
Â*www.lds.org
.

"Van Chocstraw" wrote in
...

Your stack controls are out of adjustment. The blower should
cut off at
80. It should cut on at 100.

What temp the fan cuts on and off at doesn't explain how he has only
70F air coming out of the vents with the furnace fired and running
steady and why most of the house is cold.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It can be explained by a clogged AC coil, I saw that once at a friends
house, we just removed it for the winter and he got heat until he had
time to powerwash it. Has he or anyone even looked at his AC coil yet,
nope I bet not.


OP said he has good air flow (he feels a strong cool breeze0?

[mm]

On Wed, 4 Nov 2009 13:22:48 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

There are two ratings on the furnace, one is 45,000BTU and the other
is 61,500BTU, but the furnace was made in Quebec and everything
written on it is in FRENCH! Online translators were no help in
figuring out what the tag says...

Then you have to find a person who knows French. Shouldn't be hard.
If he knows a little bit about furnaces, that would be good too, but
probably not essential. Take what he tells you and post it here.