Hi Experts,

I have discovered which oven not to buy but it's a bit late now.
The Model Number is: 72163252301 and, within the warranty, it made a
loud pop, then started a very loud buzzing and finally a smell of
burning plastic. I pulled the cord and brought it back to Sears. A week
later I had it back. That is just about a year ago and it now has repeated.

This oven was very lightly used - not more than 20 mins/day.

If anyone has had this experience I'd appreciate the info. I also note
that the way it is assembled seems to make access more difficult.

Please advise.

Thanks :-)

PS, my last microwave was a GE and it lasted 20 years without repair.
Now you know an idiot when you meet one :-(

RF wrote:
Hi Experts,

I have discovered which oven not to buy but it's a bit late now.
The Model Number is: 72163252301 and, within the warranty, it made a
loud pop, then started a very loud buzzing and finally a smell of
burning plastic. I pulled the cord and brought it back to Sears. A week
later I had it back. That is just about a year ago and it now has repeated.

This oven was very lightly used - not more than 20 mins/day.

If anyone has had this experience I'd appreciate the info. I also note
that the way it is assembled seems to make access more difficult.

Please advise.

Thanks :-)

PS, my last microwave was a GE and it lasted 20 years without repair.
Now you know an idiot when you meet one :-(
Hi,
I always have good luck with Panasonic ones.

RF wrote:
Hi Experts,

I have discovered which oven not to buy but it's a bit late now.
The Model Number is: 72163252301 and, within the warranty, it made a
loud pop, then started a very loud buzzing and finally a smell of
burning plastic. I pulled the cord and brought it back to Sears. A
week later I had it back. That is just about a year ago and it now
has repeated.
This oven was very lightly used - not more than 20 mins/day.

If anyone has had this experience I'd appreciate the info. I also note
that the way it is assembled seems to make access more difficult.

The way it is assembled is specificallly designed to make access difficult.
There is a power supply inside of that unit capable of producing 4000 volts
at a half an amp, which is guaranteed to kill you.

As if that wasn't enough, the capacitor can retain sufficient enough energy
to cause a ventricular fibrillation long after the unit has been turned off
and unplugged.

Microwave ovens are rather simple devices, but unless you have the
specialized know-how in dealing with them, your life isn't worth it.

Jon

"RF" wrote in message
...

I have discovered which oven not to buy but it's a bit late now.
The Model Number is: 72163252301 and, within the warranty, it made a
loud pop, then started a very loud buzzing and finally a smell of
burning plastic. I pulled the cord and brought it back to Sears. A week
later I had it back. That is just about a year ago and it now has
repeated.

Inspect the unit looking for indications its fire safety was
tested by the Underwriters Electrical Laboratory or something
similar. If not, your local fire service may be able to advise
where to send it.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

In article ,
"Jon Danniken" wrote:

The way it is assembled is specificallly designed to make access difficult.
There is a power supply inside of that unit capable of producing 4000 volts
at a half an amp, which is guaranteed to kill you.

As if that wasn't enough, the capacitor can retain sufficient enough energy
to cause a ventricular fibrillation long after the unit has been turned off
and unplugged.

Microwave ovens are rather simple devices, but unless you have the
specialized know-how in dealing with them, your life isn't worth it.

Jon

Fair and acceptable warnings to the complete idiot, but I believe you're
lapsing into hysterical hyperbole. Electricity is *not* "guaranteed to
kill you." It's only theoretically possible that you could die from
opening up a microwave to fix it. If you do accidentally touch the wrong
thing, it'll give you a shock, which will remind you which part not to
touch.

Most of those theoretically dangerous parts are hidden away in secondary
cages anyway. You can easily open up a microwave and fix it without
having a panic attack.

Smitty Two wrote:
"Jon Danniken" wrote:
RF wrote:


I have discovered which oven not to buy but it's a bit late now.
The Model Number is: 72163252301 and, within the warranty, it made a
loud pop, then started a very loud buzzing and finally a smell of
burning plastic. I pulled the cord and brought it back to Sears. A
week later I had it back. That is just about a year ago and it now
has repeated.
This oven was very lightly used - not more than 20 mins/day.

If anyone has had this experience I'd appreciate the info. I also
note that the way it is assembled seems to make access more
difficult.


The way it is assembled is specificallly designed to make access
difficult. There is a power supply inside of that unit capable of
producing 4000 volts at a half an amp, which is guaranteed to kill
you.

As if that wasn't enough, the capacitor can retain sufficient enough
energy to cause a ventricular fibrillation long after the unit has
been turned off and unplugged.

Microwave ovens are rather simple devices, but unless you have the
specialized know-how in dealing with them, your life isn't worth it.



Fair and acceptable warnings to the complete idiot, but I believe
you're lapsing into hysterical hyperbole. Electricity is *not*
"guaranteed to kill you." It's only theoretically possible that you
could die from opening up a microwave to fix it. If you do
accidentally touch the wrong thing, it'll give you a shock, which
will remind you which part not to touch.

Most of those theoretically dangerous parts are hidden away in
secondary cages anyway. You can easily open up a microwave and fix it
without having a panic attack.

Well "Smitty", I don't think your perspective of high voltage/high current
appliances is a very practical one. Beyond that, suggesting that the
innards of a microwave are anything less than lethal is beyond negligent,
and I'd say foolhardy as well.

Jon

In article ,
"Jon Danniken" wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:
"Jon Danniken" wrote:
RF wrote:


I have discovered which oven not to buy but it's a bit late now.
The Model Number is: 72163252301 and, within the warranty, it made a
loud pop, then started a very loud buzzing and finally a smell of
burning plastic. I pulled the cord and brought it back to Sears. A
week later I had it back. That is just about a year ago and it now
has repeated.
This oven was very lightly used - not more than 20 mins/day.

If anyone has had this experience I'd appreciate the info. I also
note that the way it is assembled seems to make access more
difficult.


The way it is assembled is specificallly designed to make access
difficult. There is a power supply inside of that unit capable of
producing 4000 volts at a half an amp, which is guaranteed to kill
you.

As if that wasn't enough, the capacitor can retain sufficient enough
energy to cause a ventricular fibrillation long after the unit has
been turned off and unplugged.

Microwave ovens are rather simple devices, but unless you have the
specialized know-how in dealing with them, your life isn't worth it.



Fair and acceptable warnings to the complete idiot, but I believe
you're lapsing into hysterical hyperbole. Electricity is *not*
"guaranteed to kill you." It's only theoretically possible that you
could die from opening up a microwave to fix it. If you do
accidentally touch the wrong thing, it'll give you a shock, which
will remind you which part not to touch.

Most of those theoretically dangerous parts are hidden away in
secondary cages anyway. You can easily open up a microwave and fix it
without having a panic attack.

Well "Smitty", I don't think your perspective of high voltage/high current
appliances is a very practical one. Beyond that, suggesting that the
innards of a microwave are anything less than lethal is beyond negligent,
and I'd say foolhardy as well.

Jon

Well "Jon," I actually think my perspective is extremely practical. It's
a perspective that allows things to be repaired. This (a.h.r.) is a DIY
group, after all. If we were all terrified to repair things, not much
would get done. All those "Danger, Will Robinson" labels that you see on
things were penned by lawyers.

My GF and I recently repaired her microwave. We found a nice schematic
and troubleshooting flowchart inside, and replaced a $20 thermal switch.
Replacing the unit would have cost several hundred. Peanuts to a lawyer,
but not to me.

Oh, yeah, I also stared death bravely in the face and got her TV working
again last week, too. Another sinister appliance, with voltages just
waiting to leap out and kill people in their sleep.

Don Phillipson wrote:
"RF" wrote in message
...

I have discovered which oven not to buy but it's a bit late now.
The Model Number is: 72163252301 and, within the warranty, it made a
loud pop, then started a very loud buzzing and finally a smell of
burning plastic. I pulled the cord and brought it back to Sears. A week
later I had it back. That is just about a year ago and it now has
repeated.

Inspect the unit looking for indications its fire safety was
tested by the Underwriters Electrical Laboratory or something
similar. If not, your local fire service may be able to advise
where to send it.

Thanks to everyone for the discussion.

The only safety factor mentioned on the oven is that it is UL Listed.

This is a comment from Sears:
"Sears offers a great website where you can ask expert technical
questions, search for answers from other homeowners, find product
manuals and trouble shooting guides. All of this and other great advice
and ideas can be found at www.managemyhome.com!"

Has anyone visited "this great website" and found some useful info?

On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 12:16:33 -0700, Smitty Two
put finger to keyboard and composed:

My GF and I recently repaired her microwave. We found a nice schematic
and troubleshooting flowchart inside, and replaced a $20 thermal switch.

This may help.

Parts & Exploded Views:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...er=72163252301

Be careful of item 5000:
http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_pn...6556-00005.png

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

On Sep 28, 12:46*am, Franc Zabkar wrote:
On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 12:16:33 -0700, Smitty Two
put finger to keyboard and composed:

My GF and I recently repaired her microwave. We found a nice schematic
and troubleshooting flowchart inside, and replaced a $20 thermal switch.

This may help.

Parts & Exploded Views:http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...trieve.pd?mode...

Be careful of item 5000:http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_pn...6556-00005.png

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

uwave ovens arent any more complex than a regular thermal oven. The
magnetron requires a few thousand volts so you have a very simple high
voltage power supply. You have a timer for on/off and you have a bunch
of saftey switches that makes sure the door is closed.

Jimmie

Microwave ovens are designed as throwaways. They are not
designed to be repaired. Considering the cost, it is not at all bad
that they are designed that way. The cost of repair, even a simple
repair is likely to be a a large % of the original cost.

As already noted, they are potentionally dangerous to work on.
So I suggest that the 1950's, when repairing appliances was the norm
are over and you need to get into this century.

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
"Jon Danniken" wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:
"Jon Danniken" wrote:
RF wrote:


I have discovered which oven not to buy but it's a bit late now.
The Model Number is: 72163252301 and, within the warranty, it made a
loud pop, then started a very loud buzzing and finally a smell of
burning plastic. I pulled the cord and brought it back to Sears. A
week later I had it back. That is just about a year ago and it now
has repeated.
This oven was very lightly used - not more than 20 mins/day.

If anyone has had this experience I'd appreciate the info. I also
note that the way it is assembled seems to make access more
difficult.

The way it is assembled is specificallly designed to make access
difficult. There is a power supply inside of that unit capable of
producing 4000 volts at a half an amp, which is guaranteed to kill
you.

As if that wasn't enough, the capacitor can retain sufficient enough
energy to cause a ventricular fibrillation long after the unit has
been turned off and unplugged.

Microwave ovens are rather simple devices, but unless you have the
specialized know-how in dealing with them, your life isn't worth it.


Fair and acceptable warnings to the complete idiot, but I believe
you're lapsing into hysterical hyperbole. Electricity is *not*
"guaranteed to kill you." It's only theoretically possible that you
could die from opening up a microwave to fix it. If you do
accidentally touch the wrong thing, it'll give you a shock, which
will remind you which part not to touch.

Most of those theoretically dangerous parts are hidden away in
secondary cages anyway. You can easily open up a microwave and fix it
without having a panic attack.
Well "Smitty", I don't think your perspective of high voltage/high current
appliances is a very practical one. Beyond that, suggesting that the
innards of a microwave are anything less than lethal is beyond negligent,
and I'd say foolhardy as well.

Jon

Well "Jon," I actually think my perspective is extremely practical. It's
a perspective that allows things to be repaired. This (a.h.r.) is a DIY
group, after all. If we were all terrified to repair things, not much
would get done. All those "Danger, Will Robinson" labels that you see on
things were penned by lawyers.

My GF and I recently repaired her microwave. We found a nice schematic
and troubleshooting flowchart inside, and replaced a $20 thermal switch.
Replacing the unit would have cost several hundred. Peanuts to a lawyer,
but not to me.

Oh, yeah, I also stared death bravely in the face and got her TV working
again last week, too. Another sinister appliance, with voltages just
waiting to leap out and kill people in their sleep.

I've been shocked numerous times by TV's and video monitor High
Voltages, about 35,000 volts. Had it arc about an inch to my finger.
Even worse was touching the case of the horizontal output transistor.
That leaves a small burn and you get the aroma of burning skin. Please
keep that in mind when I post something really stupid! ;-)

Tony wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:

In article ,
"Jon Danniken" wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:

"Jon Danniken" wrote:

RF wrote:


I have discovered which oven not to buy but it's a bit late now.
The Model Number is: 72163252301 and, within the warranty, it made a
loud pop, then started a very loud buzzing and finally a smell of
burning plastic. I pulled the cord and brought it back to Sears. A
week later I had it back. That is just about a year ago and it now
has repeated.
This oven was very lightly used - not more than 20 mins/day.

If anyone has had this experience I'd appreciate the info. I also
note that the way it is assembled seems to make access more
difficult.


The way it is assembled is specificallly designed to make access
difficult. There is a power supply inside of that unit capable of
producing 4000 volts at a half an amp, which is guaranteed to kill
you.

As if that wasn't enough, the capacitor can retain sufficient enough
energy to cause a ventricular fibrillation long after the unit has
been turned off and unplugged.

Microwave ovens are rather simple devices, but unless you have the
specialized know-how in dealing with them, your life isn't worth it.


Fair and acceptable warnings to the complete idiot, but I believe
you're lapsing into hysterical hyperbole. Electricity is *not*
"guaranteed to kill you." It's only theoretically possible that you
could die from opening up a microwave to fix it. If you do
accidentally touch the wrong thing, it'll give you a shock, which
will remind you which part not to touch.

Most of those theoretically dangerous parts are hidden away in
secondary cages anyway. You can easily open up a microwave and fix it
without having a panic attack.

Well "Smitty", I don't think your perspective of high voltage/high
current appliances is a very practical one. Beyond that, suggesting
that the innards of a microwave are anything less than lethal is
beyond negligent, and I'd say foolhardy as well.

Jon


Well "Jon," I actually think my perspective is extremely practical.
It's a perspective that allows things to be repaired. This (a.h.r.) is
a DIY group, after all. If we were all terrified to repair things, not
much would get done. All those "Danger, Will Robinson" labels that you
see on things were penned by lawyers.

My GF and I recently repaired her microwave. We found a nice schematic
and troubleshooting flowchart inside, and replaced a $20 thermal
switch. Replacing the unit would have cost several hundred. Peanuts to
a lawyer, but not to me.

Oh, yeah, I also stared death bravely in the face and got her TV
working again last week, too. Another sinister appliance, with
voltages just waiting to leap out and kill people in their sleep.


I've been shocked numerous times by TV's and video monitor High
Voltages, about 35,000 volts. Had it arc about an inch to my finger.
Even worse was touching the case of the horizontal output transistor.
That leaves a small burn and you get the aroma of burning skin. Please
keep that in mind when I post something really stupid! ;-)

Years ago when I was very young and tubes were used as rectifiers in the
flyback cages. I stood there and watched a man demonstrate how he fixed
TV's found on the dump and various places, with tubes, also found in
TV's. Any ways, as he pulled the tubes while the unit was on (operating)
and replacing them on the fly, it was kind of funny when he reached
inside the cage of the HV compartment to pull the rectifier tube.

I can say that this person is still alive today, and the sheet rock
on that wall had to be repair later on.

Lesson learned. Make sure you have plenty of space between you and the
wall, so not to create more damaging repairs!

RF wrote:
Don Phillipson wrote:
"RF" wrote in message
...

I have discovered which oven not to buy but it's a bit late now.
The Model Number is: 72163252301 and, within the warranty, it made a
loud pop, then started a very loud buzzing and finally a smell of
burning plastic. I pulled the cord and brought it back to Sears. A week
later I had it back. That is just about a year ago and it now has
repeated.

Inspect the unit looking for indications its fire safety was
tested by the Underwriters Electrical Laboratory or something
similar. If not, your local fire service may be able to advise
where to send it.

Thanks to everyone for the discussion.

The only safety factor mentioned on the oven is that it is UL Listed.

This is a comment from Sears:
"Sears offers a great website where you can ask expert technical
questions, search for answers from other homeowners, find product
manuals and trouble shooting guides. All of this and other great advice
and ideas can be found at www.managemyhome.com!"

Has anyone visited "this great website" and found some useful info?

Many thanks again to all. Some good news.

I went through my files and found the report on the last repair. The
problem was:

"107 Found diode shorted and arcing."

The part number is 6851W1A002A and it costs about $8.

Now to pick it up. It also has me wondering how long this one will last.
This will be the third diode in 30 months. Seems to me like this product
is undersized or similar.

RF wrote:
RF wrote:
Don Phillipson wrote:
"RF" wrote in message
...

I have discovered which oven not to buy but it's a bit late now.
The Model Number is: 72163252301 and, within the warranty, it made
a loud pop, then started a very loud buzzing and finally a smell of
burning plastic. I pulled the cord and brought it back to Sears. A
week later I had it back. That is just about a year ago and it now
has repeated.

Inspect the unit looking for indications its fire safety was
tested by the Underwriters Electrical Laboratory or something
similar. If not, your local fire service may be able to advise
where to send it.

Thanks to everyone for the discussion.

The only safety factor mentioned on the oven is that it is UL Listed.

This is a comment from Sears:
"Sears offers a great website where you can ask expert technical
questions, search for answers from other homeowners, find product
manuals and trouble shooting guides. All of this and other great
advice and ideas can be found at www.managemyhome.com!"

Has anyone visited "this great website" and found some useful info?

Many thanks again to all. Some good news.

I went through my files and found the report on the last repair. The
problem was:

"107 Found diode shorted and arcing."

The part number is 6851W1A002A and it costs about $8.

Now to pick it up. It also has me wondering how long this one will
last. This will be the third diode in 30 months. Seems to me like
this product is undersized or similar.

Get a bigger diode.

Jamie t writes:

Tony wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:

In article ,
"Jon Danniken" wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:

"Jon Danniken" wrote:

RF wrote:


I have discovered which oven not to buy but it's a bit late now.
The Model Number is: 72163252301 and, within the warranty, it made a
loud pop, then started a very loud buzzing and finally a smell of
burning plastic. I pulled the cord and brought it back to Sears. A
week later I had it back. That is just about a year ago and it now
has repeated.
This oven was very lightly used - not more than 20 mins/day.

If anyone has had this experience I'd appreciate the info. I also
note that the way it is assembled seems to make access more
difficult.


The way it is assembled is specificallly designed to make access
difficult. There is a power supply inside of that unit capable of
producing 4000 volts at a half an amp, which is guaranteed to kill
you.

As if that wasn't enough, the capacitor can retain sufficient enough
energy to cause a ventricular fibrillation long after the unit has
been turned off and unplugged.

Microwave ovens are rather simple devices, but unless you have the
specialized know-how in dealing with them, your life isn't worth it.


Fair and acceptable warnings to the complete idiot, but I believe
you're lapsing into hysterical hyperbole. Electricity is *not*
"guaranteed to kill you." It's only theoretically possible that you
could die from opening up a microwave to fix it. If you do
accidentally touch the wrong thing, it'll give you a shock, which
will remind you which part not to touch.

Most of those theoretically dangerous parts are hidden away in
secondary cages anyway. You can easily open up a microwave and fix it
without having a panic attack.

Well "Smitty", I don't think your perspective of high voltage/high
current appliances is a very practical one. Beyond that,
suggesting that the innards of a microwave are anything less than
lethal is beyond negligent, and I'd say foolhardy as well.

Jon


Well "Jon," I actually think my perspective is extremely
practical. It's a perspective that allows things to be
repaired. This (a.h.r.) is a DIY group, after all. If we were all
terrified to repair things, not much would get done. All those
"Danger, Will Robinson" labels that you see on things were penned
by lawyers.

My GF and I recently repaired her microwave. We found a nice
schematic and troubleshooting flowchart inside, and replaced a $20
thermal switch. Replacing the unit would have cost several
hundred. Peanuts to a lawyer, but not to me.

Oh, yeah, I also stared death bravely in the face and got her TV
working again last week, too. Another sinister appliance, with
voltages just waiting to leap out and kill people in their sleep.
I've been shocked numerous times by TV's and video monitor High
Voltages, about 35,000 volts. Had it arc about an inch to my
finger. Even worse was touching the case of the horizontal output
transistor. That leaves a small burn and you get the aroma of
burning skin. Please keep that in mind when I post something really
stupid! ;-)

Years ago when I was very young and tubes were used as rectifiers in
the flyback cages. I stood there and watched a man demonstrate how he
fixed TV's found on the dump and various places, with tubes, also
found in TV's. Any ways, as he pulled the tubes while the unit was on
(operating) and replacing them on the fly, it was kind of funny when
he reached inside the cage of the HV compartment to pull the rectifier
tube.

I can say that this person is still alive today, and the sheet rock
on that wall had to be repair later on.

Lesson learned. Make sure you have plenty of space between you and the
wall, so not to create more damaging repairs!

If either of you had touched the HV of a powered microwave, you would
not be posting here today. It may only be 3-5kV, bit it's capable
of a good fraction of an AMP if not more.

Enough said.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

On Sep 27, 4:09*pm, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:
Smitty Two wrote:
"Jon Danniken" wrote:
RF wrote:

I have discovered which oven not to buy but it's a bit late now.
The Model Number is: 72163252301 and, within the warranty, it made a
loud pop, then started a very loud buzzing and finally a smell of
burning plastic. I pulled the cord and brought it back to Sears. A
week later I had it back. That is just about a year ago and it now
has repeated.
This oven was very lightly used - not more than 20 mins/day.

If anyone has had this experience I'd appreciate the info. I also
note that the way it is assembled seems to make access more
difficult.

The way it is assembled is specificallly designed to make access
difficult. There is a power supply inside of that unit capable of
producing 4000 volts at a half an amp, which is guaranteed to kill
you.

As if that wasn't enough, the capacitor can retain sufficient enough
energy to cause a ventricular fibrillation long after the unit has
been turned off and unplugged.

Microwave ovens are rather simple devices, but unless you have the
specialized know-how in dealing with them, your life isn't worth it.

Fair and acceptable warnings to the complete idiot, but I believe
you're lapsing into hysterical hyperbole. Electricity is *not*
"guaranteed to kill you." It's only theoretically possible that you
could die from opening up a microwave to fix it. If you do
accidentally touch the wrong thing, it'll give you a shock, which
will remind you which part not to touch.

Most of those theoretically dangerous parts are hidden away in
secondary cages anyway. You can easily open up a microwave and fix it
without having a panic attack.

Well "Smitty", I don't think your perspective of high voltage/high current
appliances is a very practical one. *Beyond that, suggesting that the
innards of a microwave are anything less than lethal is beyond negligent,
and I'd say foolhardy as well.

Jon- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I agree with Jon. The innards of a microwave CAN be lethal. That
doesn't mean any more than standing under car on a lift WILL be
lethal!
BTW I am a retired electronics and radio transmitter technician and
manager!
But it is very much the sense and capability of the d-i-yer that comes
into play. e.g.
I have one neighbour about whom every one shudders when he even looks
at electrcity, no matter how often you try to teach him. He's the kind
that says "Well can I put a screwdriver between there and chassis. My
brother says that will test the high voltage !!!!!". He is dangerous
with any voltage over 12 volts and he doesn't even understand that
unless he can clearly see a broken off or corroded wire on his truck!
Recently an acquaintance asked us to 'look at' his favourite
microwave. He'd opened it and couldn't find the problem. He felt it
could be the control board!!!!!
My son, also a technician, and I fixed it in about 15 minutes on the
kitchen table; a bad door micro-switch! The control board and the hi-
voltage and magnetron circuit worked fine once we replaced the
defective micro-switch (I have a jar of used ones salvaged from old
m.waves). While working on it we defeated the hi voltage to the
magnetron. For safety.
When the owner had reassembled his m.wave he had not put the cover
back on correctly and there was a potential leak on the right hand
edge very close to the door opener and close to where one would put a
hand to program or switch off! The 'edges' of the cover and the case
were improperly meshed ............... Strewth; do wish people
wouldn't touch stuff they don't understand!
For example I know nothing about automatic transmissions so I would
not 'go at' one. I'm also a very poor plasterer, so hands off.
Everyone having fun? Within their capabilities.

I'm reporting you to SPCEP, or Society for Prevention of
Cruelty to Exclaimation Points.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"stan" wrote in message
...


I agree with Jon. The innards of a microwave CAN be lethal.
That
doesn't mean any more than standing under car on a lift WILL
be
lethal!
BTW I am a retired electronics and radio transmitter
technician and
manager!
But it is very much the sense and capability of the d-i-yer
that comes
into play. e.g.
I have one neighbour about whom every one shudders when he
even looks
at electrcity, no matter how often you try to teach him.
He's the kind
that says "Well can I put a screwdriver between there and
chassis. My
brother says that will test the high voltage !!!!!". He is
dangerous
with any voltage over 12 volts and he doesn't even
understand that
unless he can clearly see a broken off or corroded wire on
his truck!
Recently an acquaintance asked us to 'look at' his favourite
microwave. He'd opened it and couldn't find the problem. He
felt it
could be the control board!!!!!
My son, also a technician, and I fixed it in about 15
minutes on the
kitchen table; a bad door micro-switch! The control board
and the hi-
voltage and magnetron circuit worked fine once we replaced
the
defective micro-switch (I have a jar of used ones salvaged
from old
m.waves). While working on it we defeated the hi voltage to
the
magnetron. For safety.
When the owner had reassembled his m.wave he had not put the
cover
back on correctly and there was a potential leak on the
right hand
edge very close to the door opener and close to where one
would put a
hand to program or switch off! The 'edges' of the cover and
the case
were improperly meshed ............... Strewth; do wish
people
wouldn't touch stuff they don't understand!
For example I know nothing about automatic transmissions so
I would
not 'go at' one. I'm also a very poor plasterer, so hands
off.
Everyone having fun? Within their capabilities.

stan wrote:
Recently an acquaintance asked us to 'look at' his favourite
microwave. He'd opened it and couldn't find the problem. He felt it
could be the control board!!!!!
My son, also a technician, and I fixed it in about 15 minutes on the
kitchen table; a bad door micro-switch!

I've repaired 5 or 6 microwave ovens and the problem was always a bad
micro switch. Most of the bad switches were caused by a slip on wire
connector making poor contact and getting hot, so I often soldered the
wires to the new switch.

In article
,
stan wrote:

do wish people
wouldn't touch stuff they don't understand!

I guess you don't believe in learning, then.

The couple I've done, it's been the high voltage diode that
goes.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Tony" wrote in message
...

I've repaired 5 or 6 microwave ovens and the problem was
always a bad
micro switch. Most of the bad switches were caused by a
slip on wire
connector making poor contact and getting hot, so I often
soldered the
wires to the new switch.

On Sep 29, 8:59*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
The couple I've done, it's been the high voltage diode that
goes.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Tony" wrote in message

...

I've repaired 5 or 6 microwave ovens and the problem was
always a bad
micro switch. *Most of the bad switches were caused by a
slip on wire
connector making poor contact and getting hot, so I often
soldered the
wires to the new switch.

Interesting. Good idea though. We had a total of three or four m.waves
in a school cafeteria we used to operate. With those and requests from
friends and neighbours we had 2 or 3 bad magnetrons, which even used
cost around $30 so unless you had one out of a scrapped unit hardly
worth fixing! Couple of those over-heat switches (either little round
bi-metal or occasioanlly solid state) that went open, Two IIRC bad
micro switches, one bad diode and or capacitor can't recall which.
Then also encrusted dirt, bad fan etc.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
The couple I've done, it's been the high voltage diode that
goes.

Well I sent them to you since I stock micro switches but no HV diodes.

Curious, what are the symptoms of a bad diode? I just thought about it,
I suppose they (almost)never short out, and an open one may act as if
the oven was working but nothing gets hot?

On Sep 30, 1:49*pm, Tony wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
The couple I've done, it's been the high voltage diode that
goes.

Well I sent them to you since I stock micro switches but no HV diodes.

Curious, what are the symptoms of a bad diode? *I just thought about it,
I suppose they (almost)never short out, and an open one may act as if
the oven was working but nothing gets hot?

The diode is in a simple partial voltage doubling circuit. If it dud I
think you'd get AC at reduced voltage on the magnetron? Probably not
high enough to produce microwaves?
In simple terms IIRC the HV capacitor (usually about 0.8 mfd.) charges
up on one half cycle (60 hertz) and then discharges on the opposite
half cycle in series with the already charged capacitor. Thus
providing pulses of HV DC at approximately twice peak voltage of the
transformer HV winding output.
A recent bench test showed that one particular transformer had a 21:1
ratio. So with 115v RMS into the primary, the HV would be 2415 RMS
and somewhere around 3400 volts peak. Double that minus some losses
etc. we are looking at around 5000 volts DC.
And unlike the HV in a colour TV which is a few milliamps or even
microamps to a picture tube CRT, in a high impedance circuit, the
power fed to a magnetron can be a quarter to half an amp or more; at
around 5000 volts DC!!!!!!!! Anything from 750 to 1500 watts etc.
Welcome to your own private electric chair; eh?
Cheers.

No heat, loud hum. And, I sent you the ones with the bad
microswitches, which I don't stock.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Tony" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
The couple I've done, it's been the high voltage diode
that
goes.

Well I sent them to you since I stock micro switches but no
HV diodes.

Curious, what are the symptoms of a bad diode? I just
thought about it,
I suppose they (almost)never short out, and an open one may
act as if
the oven was working but nothing gets hot?

wrote:
Microwave ovens are designed as throwaways. They are not
designed to be repaired. Considering the cost, it is not at all bad
that they are designed that way. The cost of repair, even a simple
repair is likely to be a a large % of the original cost.

As already noted, they are potentionally dangerous to work on.
So I suggest that the 1950's, when repairing appliances was the norm
are over and you need to get into this century.


Thanks to all for your efforts.

I have ordered Diode A ($16 incl shipping)and now I am waiting for the
sparks to fly :-)

Did you isolate one end of the diode, and test it, using a
VOM?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"RF" wrote in message
...
wrote:

Thanks to all for your efforts.

I have ordered Diode A ($16 incl shipping)and now I am
waiting for the
sparks to fly :-)

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Did you isolate one end of the diode, and test it, using a
VOM?


No S.M. I am waiting (hopefully) for the instructions for the diode
installation. Otherwise I'll have to start hammering until I get the
case open :-)

The couple diodes I got from my parts house came in small
plastic bag, with no install instructions. I had to pull
several screws from the back and bottom of the microwave,
and the case came off relatively easily.

Sears (Kenmore) had parts diagrams online, so you can learn
a lot from them.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"RF" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Did you isolate one end of the diode, and test it, using a
VOM?


No S.M. I am waiting (hopefully) for the instructions for
the diode
installation. Otherwise I'll have to start hammering until I
get the
case open :-)

Stormin Mormon wrote:
The couple diodes I got from my parts house came in small
plastic bag, with no install instructions. I had to pull
several screws from the back and bottom of the microwave,
and the case came off relatively easily.

Sears (Kenmore) had parts diagrams online, so you can learn
a lot from them.

Oh Great and Wise ones why did you not tell me about the weirdo
screwdriver needed to remove the panels? :-(

I've been up on the mountain for a long time. The only ones
we've gotten up here have had phillips screws. Sorry about
that.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"RF" wrote in message
...

Oh Great and Wise ones why did you not tell me about the
weirdo
screwdriver needed to remove the panels? :-(