Wire nut w/5 #12
 

Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On Aug 25, 10:50*pm, sid wrote:
Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. *I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? *I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. *I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.

Chocolate block.

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

sid wrote:
Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.




You could also use a small copper split-bolt and (assuming it's not a
grounding wire) wrap it with tape.

If I was using a wire-nut, I'd go one size bigger than red (don't
remember what color that is, blue?)

Bob

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On Aug 25, 9:50*pm, sid wrote:
Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. *I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? *I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. *I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.

split bolt and tape.

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

"sid" wrote in message
...
Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.

Buchanan WT53 B, I love this nut for bunches of wires:
http://www.aikencolon.com/Ideal-Buch...-100_p_41.html

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

sid wrote:
Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.


Just go one size bigger (gray) and get a quality brand. I don't know if
HomeCheepo sells a quality brand so you may need to stop at a real
supply house.

http://www.idealindustries.com/produ.../wingtwist.jsp

WT53 is a good choice.

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

sid wrote:
Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.



Strip off 1" or better, get a real good twist with a GOOD pair of flat
nosed pliers, then solder, then cut back to 1/2" to 3/4" of soldered
wire showing and tape well.

s

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On 8/26/2009 7:49 AM Steve Barker spake thus:

sid wrote:

Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Strip off 1" or better, get a real good twist with a GOOD pair of flat
nosed pliers, then solder, then cut back to 1/2" to 3/4" of soldered
wire showing and tape well.

Surprised to see someone make that suggestion.

Yes, it would definitely be a superior connection, both electrically and
mechanically. But aside from the extra work involved, it has the problem
of not being easily un-doable in case some future electrician needs to
fix or add something.

Kind of like the old Western Union splices ...


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On 2009-08-26, Steve Barker wrote:

Strip off 1" or better, get a real good twist with a GOOD pair of
flat nosed pliers, then solder, then cut back to 1/2" to 3/4" of
soldered wire showing and tape well.

It would appear that cutting back the wires after soldering would
violate NEC 110.14(B): "Soldered splices shall first be spliced or
joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder
and then be soldered."

Also, NEC 250.148(E) prohibits relying on solder for the grounding
conductor (EGC): "Connections depending solely on solder shall not be
used."

Cheers, Wayne

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On Wed, 26 Aug 2009 10:31:09 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 8/26/2009 7:49 AM Steve Barker spake thus:

sid wrote:

Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Strip off 1" or better, get a real good twist with a GOOD pair of flat
nosed pliers, then solder, then cut back to 1/2" to 3/4" of soldered
wire showing and tape well.

Surprised to see someone make that suggestion.

Yes, it would definitely be a superior connection, both electrically and
mechanically. But aside from the extra work involved, it has the problem
of not being easily un-doable in case some future electrician needs to
fix or add something.

Ever try to open a crimped connector and add a wire?

Kind of like the old Western Union splices ...
--
Mr.E

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On Aug 25, 11:02*pm, TimR wrote:
On Aug 25, 10:50*pm, sid wrote:

Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. *I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? *I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. *I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.

Chocolate block.

I know Radio Shack (and others) sell these for low voltage connections
but are they NEC approved for house wiring?

I Googled them and all the sites that carry larger sizes seem to be in
the UK or NZ.

I was first introduced to them while serving in the USCG in Germany
back in the late seventies, but again, only for low voltage apps.

Are they NEC approved to be used in the application the OP described?

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On Aug 26, 9:02*am, George wrote:
sid wrote:
Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. *I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? *I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. *I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.

Just go one size bigger (gray) and get a quality brand. I don't know if
HomeCheepo sells a quality brand so you may need to stop at a real
supply house.

http://www.idealindustries.com/produ...n/twist-on/win...

WT53 is a good choice.

Problem there of course is buying a bag of 100 when I'm guessing the
OP needs - dare I say - 1.

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On Wed, 26 Aug 2009 18:24:58 +0000 (UTC), Wayne Whitney
wrote:

On 2009-08-26, Steve Barker wrote:

Strip off 1" or better, get a real good twist with a GOOD pair of
flat nosed pliers, then solder, then cut back to 1/2" to 3/4" of
soldered wire showing and tape well.

It would appear that cutting back the wires after soldering would
violate NEC 110.14(B): "Soldered splices shall first be spliced or
joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder
and then be soldered."

Twist to sufficient length, trim, then solder and tape.

Bundle, serve with #12 or #14 then solder and tape.

Also, NEC 250.148(E) prohibits relying on solder for the grounding
conductor (EGC): "Connections depending solely on solder shall not be
used."

Key word here is "solely" as making mechanically and electrically
secure followed by solder is not "solely".

This was done to prevent just placing the conductors in contact and
soldering.
--
Mr.E

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On 2009-08-26, lid wrote:

On Wed, 26 Aug 2009 18:24:58 +0000 (UTC), Wayne Whitney wrote:

It would appear that cutting back the wires after soldering would
violate NEC 110.14(B): "Soldered splices shall first be spliced or
joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder
and then be soldered."

Twist to sufficient length, trim, then solder and tape.

Bundle, serve with #12 or #14 then solder and tape.

Sounds fine, as long as the conductors are still mechanically secure
after trimming.

Also, NEC 250.148(E) prohibits relying on solder for the grounding
conductor (EGC): "Connections depending solely on solder shall not be
used."

Key word here is "solely" as making mechanically and electrically
secure followed by solder is not "solely".

This was done to prevent just placing the conductors in contact and
soldering.

I have a couple issues with this interpretation. First, it makes
250.148(E) purely redundant to 110.14(B). Second, under your
interpretation, why add the solder at all? Just twist to be
mechanically and electrically secure. So instead, I take "depending
solely on solder" to mean "consists only of the conductors plus the
solder".

Here's a clearer citation on the prohibition of soldering for the
grounding conductor that is new to the 2008 NEC: 250.8(A) says
"Permitted Methods. Grounding conductors and bonding jumpers shall be
connected by one of the following means:" and then does not include
soldering in the list of acceptable methods.

Cheers, Wayne

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On 8/26/2009 11:39 AM lid spake thus:

On Wed, 26 Aug 2009 10:31:09 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 8/26/2009 7:49 AM Steve Barker spake thus:

sid wrote:

Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Strip off 1" or better, get a real good twist with a GOOD pair of flat
nosed pliers, then solder, then cut back to 1/2" to 3/4" of soldered
wire showing and tape well.

Surprised to see someone make that suggestion.

Yes, it would definitely be a superior connection, both electrically and
mechanically. But aside from the extra work involved, it has the problem
of not being easily un-doable in case some future electrician needs to
fix or add something.

Ever try to open a crimped connector and add a wire?

No, but I've undone wire-nutted connections and added/moved wires.


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

"sid" wrote in message
...
Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.



Ideal makes push in connectors similar to these in I have seen up to six
conductors.

http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/...or-638828.aspx

They really do work well in where space is an issue.

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On Aug 26, 4:41*pm, "gore" wrote:
"sid" wrote in message

...

Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. *I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? *I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. *I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.

Ideal makes push in connectors similar to these in I have seen up to six
conductors.

http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/...rs/push-in-wir...

They really do work well in where space is an issue.

I did see these at HomeDepot, but when you examine them up close, I
don't see how that could not melt when subject to any amperage.
The expert on hand said that some/most the new light fixtures have
these provided as opposed to wire-nuts with the fixture in the box.

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

"sid" wrote in message
...
On Aug 26, 4:41 pm, "gore" wrote:
"sid" wrote in message

...

Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.

Ideal makes push in connectors similar to these in I have seen up to six
conductors.

http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/...rs/push-in-wir...

They really do work well in where space is an issue.

I did see these at HomeDepot, but when you examine them up close, I
don't see how that could not melt when subject to any amperage.
The expert on hand said that some/most the new light fixtures have
these provided as opposed to wire-nuts with the fixture in the box.

They are rated for number 12 wire. I haven't researched all the specs, but
we have used them on several jobs without a problem. They make pigtailing
really quick too.

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

"sid" wrote in message
...
On Aug 26, 4:41 pm, "gore" wrote:
"sid" wrote in message

...

Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.

Ideal makes push in connectors similar to these in I have seen up to six
conductors.

http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/...rs/push-in-wir...

They really do work well in where space is an issue.

I did see these at HomeDepot, but when you examine them up close, I
don't see how that could not melt when subject to any amperage.
The expert on hand said that some/most the new light fixtures have
these provided as opposed to wire-nuts with the fixture in the box.

http://www.idealindustries.com/prodD...-in&l2=in-sure

Was Wire nut w/5 #12 Now: OT Related Items????
 

On Wed, 26 Aug 2009 07:02:33 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"sid" wrote in message
...
Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.

Buchanan WT53 B, I love this nut for bunches of wires:
http://www.aikencolon.com/Ideal-Buch...-100_p_41.html


Sorry for hijacking...

Had to laugh when viewing that page. Main item: wire nuts.
Suggested Related items: Two diamond circular saw blades and a Bosch
drill/driver.

Gotta love software (or more likely, keyword coding) that comes up
with that combination. And I've seen ridiculous suggestions on plenty
of other sites and pages.

Amazon usually has relevant suggestions, but I've seen some crazy ones
there too.

One of the most memorable goofy suggestions was at Cabellas or some
other big sportsman store. I was searching for combination sunscreen
and bug repellant, which it found. The related item it suggested was
a 5 pack of pitons (the things mountain climbers pound into rocks to
secure lines).

Why even bother having such a feature if it can't work better than
that?

Paul F.

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On Wed, 26 Aug 2009 18:24:58 +0000 (UTC), Wayne Whitney
wrote:

On 2009-08-26, Steve Barker wrote:

Strip off 1" or better, get a real good twist with a GOOD pair of
flat nosed pliers, then solder, then cut back to 1/2" to 3/4" of
soldered wire showing and tape well.

It would appear that cutting back the wires after soldering would
violate NEC 110.14(B): "Soldered splices shall first be spliced or
joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder
and then be soldered."

Where does cutting back a well twisted and soldered joint violate
that??

Also, NEC 250.148(E) prohibits relying on solder for the grounding
conductor (EGC): "Connections depending solely on solder shall not be
used."

Or anything recommended violate that???
The ground connector, twisted and soldered with no tape meets the
requirement (assuming solid wires)

Cheers, Wayne

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On Wed, 26 Aug 2009 20:09:59 +0000 (UTC), Wayne Whitney
wrote:

On 2009-08-26, lid wrote:

On Wed, 26 Aug 2009 18:24:58 +0000 (UTC), Wayne Whitney wrote:

It would appear that cutting back the wires after soldering would
violate NEC 110.14(B): "Soldered splices shall first be spliced or
joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder
and then be soldered."

Twist to sufficient length, trim, then solder and tape.

Bundle, serve with #12 or #14 then solder and tape.

Sounds fine, as long as the conductors are still mechanically secure
after trimming.

Also, NEC 250.148(E) prohibits relying on solder for the grounding
conductor (EGC): "Connections depending solely on solder shall not be
used."

Key word here is "solely" as making mechanically and electrically
secure followed by solder is not "solely".

This was done to prevent just placing the conductors in contact and
soldering.

I have a couple issues with this interpretation. First, it makes
250.148(E) purely redundant to 110.14(B). Second, under your
interpretation, why add the solder at all? Just twist to be
mechanically and electrically secure. So instead, I take "depending
solely on solder" to mean "consists only of the conductors plus the
solder".

Here's a clearer citation on the prohibition of soldering for the
grounding conductor that is new to the 2008 NEC: 250.8(A) says
"Permitted Methods. Grounding conductors and bonding jumpers shall be
connected by one of the following means:" and then does not include
soldering in the list of acceptable methods.

Cheers, Wayne
Twisted (mechanical) plus solder meets code. soldered and taped
without twisting does not. Soldered without twisting does not.

Soldering is NOT a mechanical connection under the code.

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On Wed, 26 Aug 2009 17:41:17 -0400, "gore"
wrote:


"sid" wrote in message
...
Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.



Ideal makes push in connectors similar to these in I have seen up to six
conductors.

http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/...or-638828.aspx

They really do work well in where space is an issue.

Just like a "back-stab" connection.

Was Wire nut w/5 #12 Now: OT Related Items????
 

On Aug 26, 9:03*pm, Paul Franklin
wrote:
On Wed, 26 Aug 2009 07:02:33 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"sid" wrote in message
....
Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. *I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? *I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. *I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.

Buchanan WT53 B, I love this nut for bunches of wires:
http://www.aikencolon.com/Ideal-Buch...ay-Wing-Twist-....

Sorry for hijacking...

Had to laugh when viewing that page. *Main item: wire nuts.
Suggested Related items: Two diamond circular saw blades and a Bosch
drill/driver.

Gotta love software (or more likely, keyword coding) that comes up
with that combination. *And I've seen ridiculous suggestions on plenty
of other sites and pages. *

Amazon usually has relevant suggestions, but I've seen some crazy ones
there too.

One of the most memorable goofy suggestions was at Cabellas or some
other big sportsman store. *I was searching for combination sunscreen
and bug repellant, which it found. *The related item it suggested was
a 5 pack of pitons (the things mountain climbers pound into rocks to
secure lines).

Why even bother having such a feature if it can't work better than
that?

Paul F.

Just hijacking along...

The related item it suggested was a 5 pack of pitons (the things
mountain climbers pound into rocks to secure lines).

Makes sense to me. The last thing I want to have happen when hanging
off a cliff a couple of hundred feet above some jagged rocks is for a
mosquito to start gnawing on my neck.

Bug repellent and mountain climbing gear go hand in hand. g

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

From:
Newsgroups: alt.home.repair
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 9:35 PM
Subject: Wire nut w/5 #12


On Wed, 26 Aug 2009 17:41:17 -0400, "gore"
wrote:


"sid" wrote in message
...
Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.



Ideal makes push in connectors similar to these in I have seen up to six
conductors.

http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/...or-638828.aspx

They really do work well in where space is an issue.

Just like a "back-stab" connection.

Not like a back stab connection. With a back stab you have like a millimeter
connection on 2 sides of the wire. With the push in connectors the
connection inside kinda wraps around the wire covering almost the full wire
where it makes contact

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On 2009-08-27, wrote:

Twisted (mechanical) plus solder meets code.

Right, just not for the EGC.

Wayne

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On 2009-08-27, wrote:

On Wed, 26 Aug 2009 18:24:58 +0000 (UTC), Wayne Whitney

It would appear that cutting back the wires after soldering would
violate NEC 110.14(B): "Soldered splices shall first be spliced or
joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder
and then be soldered."

Where does cutting back a well twisted and soldered joint violate
that??

You are supposed to solder last. If you cut it after you solder it,
you no longer guarantee that it is mechanically secure without the
solder.

Also, NEC 250.148(E) prohibits relying on solder for the grounding
conductor (EGC): "Connections depending solely on solder shall not be
used."

Or anything recommended violate that???
The ground connector, twisted and soldered with no tape meets the
requirement (assuming solid wires)

I disagree. I would say that connection "depends solely on solder".
Clearly it depends on the solder to be an acceptable splice, and since
the solder is only added element to make the splice, it depends solely
on the solder.

Anyway, that issue is mute, because the 2008 NEC prohibits soldered
splices for the EGC by omitting them from the list of acceptacle
connection methods in 250.8(A).

So go ahead and solder the grounded and ungrounded conductors, but for
the grounding conductor, you would need to do something else, like
crimping before soldering.

Cheers, Wayne

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 8/26/2009 7:49 AM Steve Barker spake thus:

sid wrote:

Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Strip off 1" or better, get a real good twist with a GOOD pair of flat
nosed pliers, then solder, then cut back to 1/2" to 3/4" of soldered
wire showing and tape well.

Surprised to see someone make that suggestion.

Yes, it would definitely be a superior connection, both electrically and
mechanically. But aside from the extra work involved, it has the problem
of not being easily un-doable in case some future electrician needs to
fix or add something.

Kind of like the old Western Union splices ...


Oh it's undoable. You just cut right below the solder and start over.
If you did it right, there's enough wire there to do that 3 or 4 times.

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2009-08-26, Steve Barker wrote:

Strip off 1" or better, get a real good twist with a GOOD pair of
flat nosed pliers, then solder, then cut back to 1/2" to 3/4" of
soldered wire showing and tape well.

It would appear that cutting back the wires after soldering would
violate NEC 110.14(B): "Soldered splices shall first be spliced or
joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder
and then be soldered."

Also, NEC 250.148(E) prohibits relying on solder for the grounding
conductor (EGC): "Connections depending solely on solder shall not be
used."

Cheers, Wayne

ya and for a number of years the speed limit was 55. What's your point?
No one's opening up the tape and looking.

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Aug 26, 9:02 am, George wrote:
sid wrote:
Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.
Any help is appreciated.
Just go one size bigger (gray) and get a quality brand. I don't know if
HomeCheepo sells a quality brand so you may need to stop at a real
supply house.

http://www.idealindustries.com/produ...n/twist-on/win...

WT53 is a good choice.

Problem there of course is buying a bag of 100 when I'm guessing the
OP needs - dare I say - 1.

But they usually sell small packs of common stuff.

Was Wire nut w/5 #12 Now: OT Related Items????
 

In article ,
Paul Franklin wrote:



Sorry for hijacking...

Had to laugh when viewing that page. Main item: wire nuts.
Suggested Related items: Two diamond circular saw blades and a Bosch
drill/driver.

Gotta love software (or more likely, keyword coding) that comes up
with that combination. And I've seen ridiculous suggestions on plenty
of other sites and pages.

Amazon usually has relevant suggestions, but I've seen some crazy ones
there too.

One of the most memorable goofy suggestions was at Cabellas or some
other big sportsman store. I was searching for combination sunscreen
and bug repellant, which it found. The related item it suggested was
a 5 pack of pitons (the things mountain climbers pound into rocks to
secure lines).

Why even bother having such a feature if it can't work better than
that?

Paul F.

The wife of a coworker and close personal friend died six months ago of
hepatitis and liver cancer. A year or so prior, I was doing some
internet browsing on the topic and was surprised to find this sponsored
link:

"Looking for liver cancer? Find it on eBay."

Was Wire nut w/5 #12 Now: OT Related Items????
 

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Paul Franklin wrote:


Sorry for hijacking...

Had to laugh when viewing that page. Main item: wire nuts.
Suggested Related items: Two diamond circular saw blades and a Bosch
drill/driver.

Gotta love software (or more likely, keyword coding) that comes up
with that combination. And I've seen ridiculous suggestions on plenty
of other sites and pages.

Amazon usually has relevant suggestions, but I've seen some crazy ones
there too.

One of the most memorable goofy suggestions was at Cabellas or some
other big sportsman store. I was searching for combination sunscreen
and bug repellant, which it found. The related item it suggested was
a 5 pack of pitons (the things mountain climbers pound into rocks to
secure lines).

Why even bother having such a feature if it can't work better than
that?

Paul F.

The wife of a coworker and close personal friend died six months ago of
hepatitis and liver cancer. A year or so prior, I was doing some
internet browsing on the topic and was surprised to find this sponsored
link:

"Looking for liver cancer? Find it on eBay."

I get tickled at some of the search results at times. "And" we have
all the "and" in different sizes and colors. Our "and" is superior
to all the other "and" on the market. Go to dingbat.com for all your
"and" needs. note: There actually is a dingbat.com .

TDD

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

I suggested the chocolate block, because we used those in Europe on
all sizes of conductor. House wiring was 220V of course. Wire nuts
were prohibited as inferior, and I have to admit they are, though they
usually work.

I've never checked NEC and don't know if the chocolate block is legal
here. But it's completely secure, and completely checkable - you can
see if you got the connection perfect or not, unlike a wire nut.

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On Aug 27, 9:59*pm, TimR wrote:
I suggested the chocolate block, because we used those in Europe on
all sizes of conductor. *House wiring was 220V of course. *Wire nuts
were prohibited as inferior, and I have to admit they are, though they
usually work.

I've never checked NEC and don't know if the chocolate block is legal
here. *But it's completely secure, and completely checkable - you can
see if you got the connection perfect or not, unlike a wire nut.

Can you provide a link to a "chocolate block", all my searches don't
find any electrical connectors.

Thanks

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On Aug 26, 7:25*pm, sid wrote:
On Aug 26, 4:41*pm, "gore" wrote:





"sid" wrote in message

....

Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. *I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? *I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. *I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.

Ideal makes push in connectors similar to these in I have seen up to six
conductors.

http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/...rs/push-in-wir...

They really do work well in where space is an issue.

I did see these at HomeDepot, but when you examine them up close, I
don't see how that could not melt when subject to any amperage.
The expert on hand said that some/most the new light fixtures have
these provided as opposed to wire-nuts with the fixture in the box.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I saw them also, but on reading the fine wording it stated "for ground
connections". Also, how would the block be any different than back-
stabbed recepticals, which are no longer allowed for #12 wire???

Red

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

"Red" wrote in message
...
On Aug 26, 7:25 pm, sid wrote:
On Aug 26, 4:41 pm, "gore" wrote:





"sid" wrote in message

...

Can someone tell me the best way to wire-nut 5 #12 wires in a 4x4"
box. I know that a red nut will accept 5 #12 solid wires, but is
there a better way ? I have seen posts that talk about con-blocks and
others that talk about compression nuts. I can't find either at
HomeDepot or any other big box.

Any help is appreciated.

Ideal makes push in connectors similar to these in I have seen up to six
conductors.

http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/...rs/push-in-wir...

They really do work well in where space is an issue.

I did see these at HomeDepot, but when you examine them up close, I
don't see how that could not melt when subject to any amperage.
The expert on hand said that some/most the new light fixtures have
these provided as opposed to wire-nuts with the fixture in the box.- Hide
quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I saw them also, but on reading the fine wording it stated "for ground
connections". Also, how would the block be any different than back-
stabbed recepticals, which are no longer allowed for #12 wire???

Red

I read the label on the container of the Ideal In-Sure Push-In connector,
and it does not mention for ground connections anywhere. It says #12 - #20
solid, and also various sizes of stranded copper only. The way these differ
from backstab receptacles is there is more surface area contact. On the
label it says 600V, but stamped on the device is 20A 300V. Also on the label
is a heat rating of 105C (221F).

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

On Aug 28, 2:54*pm, sid wrote:
On Aug 27, 9:59*pm, TimR wrote:

I suggested the chocolate block, because we used those in Europe on
all sizes of conductor. *House wiring was 220V of course. *Wire nuts
were prohibited as inferior, and I have to admit they are, though they
usually work.

I've never checked NEC and don't know if the chocolate block is legal
here. *But it's completely secure, and completely checkable - you can
see if you got the connection perfect or not, unlike a wire nut.

Can you provide a link to a "chocolate block", all my searches don't
find any electrical connectors.

Thanks

Look here http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3319/...255ed1fd42.jpg

or here https://www.europaspares.com/ELECTRI...CTOR_3239.html
to see what I'm talking about.

But I really don't know about NEC in the US. When I worked in Europe
I never saw anything else, they came in multiple sizes. Understand I
supervised electricians but am not one myself. And sometimes the
language barrier got in the way. But you could crank down on those
chocolate blocks as tight as you needed. They were absolutely secure
with no strain relief required. And they are completely inspectable -
after tightening you can see if a wire slipped out or didn't make
contact, unlike a wire nut where it's all hidden.

Wire nut w/5 #12
 

TimR wrote:
On Aug 28, 2:54 pm, sid wrote:
On Aug 27, 9:59 pm, TimR wrote:

I suggested the chocolate block, because we used those in Europe on
all sizes of conductor. House wiring was 220V of course. Wire nuts
were prohibited as inferior, and I have to admit they are, though they
usually work.
I've never checked NEC and don't know if the chocolate block is legal
here. But it's completely secure, and completely checkable - you can
see if you got the connection perfect or not, unlike a wire nut.
Can you provide a link to a "chocolate block", all my searches don't
find any electrical connectors.

Thanks

Look here http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3319/...255ed1fd42.jpg

or here https://www.europaspares.com/ELECTRI...CTOR_3239.html
to see what I'm talking about.

But I really don't know about NEC in the US. When I worked in Europe
I never saw anything else, they came in multiple sizes. Understand I
supervised electricians but am not one myself. And sometimes the
language barrier got in the way.

Musta worked in the UK.

But you could crank down on those
chocolate blocks as tight as you needed. They were absolutely secure
with no strain relief required. And they are completely inspectable -
after tightening you can see if a wire slipped out or didn't make
contact, unlike a wire nut where it's all hidden.

Looks like the screws stay accessible (a hazard). Are there covers?

I have read that you snap off the number of chocolate block terminals
you need (probable source of the name) - broken ends stay insulated?

The nearest product in the US is probably AlumiConn from King innovation:
http://www.kinginnovation.com/products/electrical-products/alumiconn/
it is screw terminal, like the UK chocolate blocks above. Was made for
copper - aluminum connections but good for copper - copper.
3 ports; wire range #10-18
I suspect these are significantly more expensive than the 2 below.

The 2 products in this thread (posted by gore) are both push in:

Ideal
http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=in-sure&div=0&l1=push-in&l2=in-sure
2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ports; generally #12-20, one #10

Gardner Bender PushGard™ Push-in Wire Connectors
http://www.gardnerbender.com/products/wire_connectors.html
2, 3, 4, 8 ports; #12-22; easy to remove (GB says)


Anyone know how the connection is made in Ideal and GB? Specifically
why they are better than backstabs?

--
bud--