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Default drywall which got wet

Due to a leaky shower stall ( since replaced) some of the nearby
drywall now has a 'puffy' look. I guess the paper coating has
expanded or sumthin'. Can I lightly sand it and paint over it? What
would you suggest? Thanks.

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Default drywall which got wet

wrote in message
...
Due to a leaky shower stall ( since replaced) some of the nearby
drywall now has a 'puffy' look. I guess the paper coating has
expanded or sumthin'. Can I lightly sand it and paint over it? What
would you suggest? Thanks.


Depends on if you're married...


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Default drywall which got wet

In article , dpb wrote:
wrote:
Due to a leaky shower stall ( since replaced) some of the nearby
drywall now has a 'puffy' look. I guess the paper coating has
expanded or sumthin'. Can I lightly sand it and paint over it? What
would you suggest? Thanks.


Not much can be done (satisfactorily at least) w/ drywall that has been
wet other than replace it.


Well, depends on how wet for how long.

If the drywall is breaking up, replacement is the only
sensible option.

But if the water damage is minor/cosmetic, a simpler
fix might be very viable. Sand and then seal the area
with an oil based primer (Kilz or similar). Then paint.

It's worked perfectly for me a couple of times. Those
repairs are completely invisible and they were made
several years ago.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
|
http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
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Default drywall which got wet


"Now hear this" wrote in message
...
wrote in message
...
Due to a leaky shower stall ( since replaced) some of the nearby
drywall now has a 'puffy' look. I guess the paper coating has
expanded or sumthin'. Can I lightly sand it and paint over it? What
would you suggest? Thanks.


Depends on if you're married...


If it is spongey to the touch and the paper has seperated from the drywall ,
getting it "wet" again by painting it will make the paper bubble up and the
drywall possibly crumble...Without photos only you know how bad it is...Good
luck...

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Default drywall which got wet

wrote

Due to a leaky shower stall ( since replaced) some of the nearby
drywall now has a 'puffy' look. I guess the paper coating has
expanded or sumthin'. Can I lightly sand it and paint over it? What
would you suggest? Thanks.


How bad is it? If really bad, will have to be replaced but that's not as
hard as it sounds.

If just a bit bubbled (can barely feel it) let it completely dry then
consider possibly putting a 'bathroom type' (vinyl sort of) wall paper over
it after sanding smooth *lightly* through any bubbled paint. It will have
to be very minimal damage or the wallpaper will bubble and not adhere, or
you'll see imperfections through the paper.

Don't use the standard 'paper' but stuff meant for bathrooms. it's a bit
thicker and can handle a reasonable dampness load. Also it's washable.


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Default drywall which got wet

On Mar 10, 6:53*pm, wrote:
Due to a leaky shower stall ( since replaced) some of the nearby
drywall now has a 'puffy' look. *I guess the paper coating has
expanded or sumthin'. *Can I lightly sand it and paint over it? *What
would you suggest? *Thanks.


If there is no tile on it then ripping out a patch of drywall to the
studs and replacing it is just as easy as sanding it IMHO. Cut the
bad drywall out to the nearest stud centers, screw on a patch, mud/
tape it, sand, paint. Mold is a living organism and will only
multiply over time.

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Default drywall which got wet


On Wed, 11 Mar 2009 07:27:59 -0700 (PDT), RickH
wrote:

On Mar 10, 6:53*pm, wrote:
Due to a leaky shower stall ( since replaced) some of the nearby
drywall now has a 'puffy' look. *I guess the paper coating has
expanded or sumthin'. *Can I lightly sand it and paint over it?
*What would you suggest? *Thanks.


If there is no tile on it then ripping out a patch of drywall to the
studs and replacing it is just as easy as sanding it IMHO. Cut the
bad drywall out to the nearest stud centers, screw on a patch, mud/
tape it, sand, paint. Mold is a living organism and will only
multiply over time.


Around a shower you should be using BlueBoard or GreenBoard (I think
they are the same). They are a special drywall made for wet areas and
hold up better. Standard drywall is not a good choice around showers.
I would rip out all the drywall on the walls around the whole shower,
and replace it with the blue/green board. You likely got mold in
there. If you do, wash the studs with bleach water and let them dry.
Hopefully there are no tiles to replace. Patching soaked drywall will
only extend it's life, but is not a permanent solution, and if there's
mold, it's still there. (and there probably is mold). You dont have
to mess with the ceiling, unless it's damaged too.

I have a question to add to my reply. Maybe someone else can answer
this. When using blue/green board, is there a waterproof joint
compound made for it? ANYONE?????
I'd probably use the fiberglass joint tape too, not the paper!


Cement board is what you want in wet areas. The greenboard was used
there for a while, but it doesn't work much better than plain
wallboard. Use the greenboard in the _rest_ of the bathroom to fight
steamy air, and use cement board in the shower and around the tub.

With cement board, you tape the seams with mortar and fiberglass tape.

I recommend you put a waterproof membrane behind the cement board.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA


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Default drywall which got wet

On Wed, 11 Mar 2009 17:34:48 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 3/10/2009 11:49 PM cshenk spake thus:

Don't use the standard 'paper' but stuff meant for bathrooms. it's a
bit thicker and can handle a reasonable dampness load. Also it's
washable.


Don't know where you got "a bit thicker"; it isn't. It ("green" drywall)
is the same thickness, but is moisture resistant. Also not washable,
though it will be after being primed and painted with washable paint.

I think he was talking about wallPAPER.

In which case, you want to use SOLID VINYL wall covering. (or mylar
foil)
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Default drywall which got wet

On 3/10/2009 11:49 PM cshenk spake thus:

Don't use the standard 'paper' but stuff meant for bathrooms. it's a
bit thicker and can handle a reasonable dampness load. Also it's
washable.


Don't know where you got "a bit thicker"; it isn't. It ("green" drywall)
is the same thickness, but is moisture resistant. Also not washable,
though it will be after being primed and painted with washable paint.


--
Made From Pears: Pretty good chance that the product is at least
mostly pears.
Made With Pears: Pretty good chance that pears will be detectable in
the product.
Contains Pears: One pear seed per multiple tons of product.

(with apologies to Dorothy L. Sayers)
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Default drywall which got wet

On 3/11/2009 3:13 PM SteveBell spake thus:

Cement board is what you want in wet areas. The greenboard was used
there for a while, but it doesn't work much better than plain
wallboard. Use the greenboard in the _rest_ of the bathroom to fight
steamy air, and use cement board in the shower and around the tub.

With cement board, you tape the seams with mortar and fiberglass tape.


But how do you finish the cement board for paint (assuming no tile over
it)? Seems as though that would be even more work than just putting the
stuff up.


--
Made From Pears: Pretty good chance that the product is at least
mostly pears.
Made With Pears: Pretty good chance that pears will be detectable in
the product.
Contains Pears: One pear seed per multiple tons of product.

(with apologies to Dorothy L. Sayers)
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Default drywall which got wet

wrote
David Nebenzahl wrote:

cshenk spake thus:

Don't use the standard 'paper' but stuff meant for bathrooms. it's a
bit thicker and can handle a reasonable dampness load. Also it's
washable.


This was specifically a comment on wallpaper.

Don't know where you got "a bit thicker"; it isn't. It ("green" drywall)
is the same thickness, but is moisture resistant. Also not washable,
though it will be after being primed and painted with washable paint.

I think he was talking about wallPAPER.


Yup! But it's 'she' (not that ya can tell by the nickname here!).

In which case, you want to use SOLID VINYL wall covering. (or mylar
foil)


Not familiar with mylar foil but the vinyl yes. Thats what I'm used to
seeing recommended for bathrooms.

I got the impression the 'wall' he was talking about wasnt one that would
normally be in a direct line of spray, and was only gotten wet due to the
plumming accident, hence the suggestion.


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Default drywall which got wet

"Red Green" wrote

If you insist on only sanding and painting over it, prime with oil base
primer. This will keep the paper from getting wet and bubbling further
when
it gets wet again from painting/mudding.


Question, have you had much luck putting latex over oil based primer? I ask
because my Mom taught me that's bad juju. Pretty much put oil over oil. It
was a bear when we had to paint a chair rail and window setup that was oil
based before and we needed to put latex over it. Had to sand the dickens
out of it to make it work.


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Default drywall which got wet

"cshenk" wrote in
:

"Red Green" wrote

If you insist on only sanding and painting over it, prime with oil
base primer. This will keep the paper from getting wet and bubbling
further when
it gets wet again from painting/mudding.


Question, have you had much luck putting latex over oil based primer?
I ask because my Mom taught me that's bad juju. Pretty much put oil
over oil. It was a bear when we had to paint a chair rail and window
setup that was oil based before and we needed to put latex over it.
Had to sand the dickens out of it to make it work.



Absolutely. In one place I got there was a bathroom that was painted over
wallpaper with latex. The paper had bubbled.

Remove loose stuff.
Oil prime areas to be mudded/patched (water in mud will further
bubbling of wallpaper).
Mudd and smooth
Prime everything with oil base.
Paint with latex.

Worked like a charm...whether it's suppose to or not.
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Default drywall which got wet

On 3/12/2009 10:10 AM cshenk spake thus:

"Red Green" wrote

If you insist on only sanding and painting over it, prime with oil base
primer. This will keep the paper from getting wet and bubbling further
when it gets wet again from painting/mudding.


Question, have you had much luck putting latex over oil based primer?


I have. It works fine. (Assuming you use a good paint over a good
primer.) Remember that the primer finish is very flat, which gives a
good "tooth" for subsequent coats to adhere to.

I also know a professional house painter who does that (oil primer/latex
topcoat). And he knows a *hell* of a lot more about paint than me.

I ask because my Mom taught me that's bad juju. Pretty much put oil
over oil. It was a bear when we had to paint a chair rail and window
setup that was oil based before and we needed to put latex over it.
Had to sand the dickens out of it to make it work.


Are you sure the oil-based paint you were painting over wasn't primer
but was glossy or semi-gloss? You're going to have problems painting
over *any* type of non-flat previous coat; that's why you're supposed to
use a deglosser (or scuff the finish) first.


--
Made From Pears: Pretty good chance that the product is at least
mostly pears.
Made With Pears: Pretty good chance that pears will be detectable in
the product.
Contains Pears: One pear seed per multiple tons of product.

(with apologies to Dorothy L. Sayers)


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Default drywall which got wet

"David Nebenzahl" wrote
cshenk spake thus:


I ask because my Mom taught me that's bad juju. Pretty much put oil
over oil. It was a bear when we had to paint a chair rail and window
setup that was oil based before and we needed to put latex over it.
Had to sand the dickens out of it to make it work.


Are you sure the oil-based paint you were painting over wasn't primer but
was glossy or semi-gloss? You're going to have problems painting over
*any* type of non-flat previous coat; that's why you're supposed to use a
deglosser (or scuff the finish) first.


LOL! Pretty sure it was a gloss oil base we were covering. Painful job to
do! I was about 11 at the time and not big enough for the heavier jobs yet
so go that one.

Best I can recall there were 13 windows to deal with alone upstairs and not
sure how many in the back of the basement. Took me about 1.5 hours of
reasonably hard work per window to get it sanded down. (Mom flipped houses
for a living then, not that that term existed then).


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