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Direct Drive vs Belt Drive for New Washer



 
 
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  #1  
Old December 1st 08, 07:50 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 250
Default Direct Drive vs Belt Drive for New Washer

Any opinions on which is better for a new washing machine, belt-drive
or direct-drive? In a recent thread we were discussing my old Kenmore
direct-drive washer and how to fix it. I determined it needs a new
motor. I can get a used motor for $45 but who knows how long that
will last. A new motor is about $135 plus shipping. Plus another $20-
$30 for new "dogs" and a new coupler. A new Kenmore large capacity
washer from Sears is $299. The thing is it is a "steel belt drive"
and has a plastic case for the gearbox. I was under the impresson
that direct-drive had pretty much replaced belt drive washers due to
lower maintenance and easier repairs. There must be some reason why
new washers are belt drive. Any reason why a plastic case on the
gearbox is not as good as steel? On a direct-drive it seems like
there would be little stress on the seals and bearings but I'm not so
sure about a plastic box on a belt drive.
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  #2  
Old December 2nd 08, 12:21 AM posted to alt.home.repair
Art
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Posts: 788
Default Direct Drive vs Belt Drive for New Washer

We had a direct drive Kenmore that only lasted a few years with just 2
adults in the house hold. The underwater seal went in the agitator
destroying the transmission.


"Ulysses" wrote in message
...
Any opinions on which is better for a new washing machine, belt-drive
or direct-drive? In a recent thread we were discussing my old Kenmore
direct-drive washer and how to fix it. I determined it needs a new
motor. I can get a used motor for $45 but who knows how long that
will last. A new motor is about $135 plus shipping. Plus another $20-
$30 for new "dogs" and a new coupler. A new Kenmore large capacity
washer from Sears is $299. The thing is it is a "steel belt drive"
and has a plastic case for the gearbox. I was under the impresson
that direct-drive had pretty much replaced belt drive washers due to
lower maintenance and easier repairs. There must be some reason why
new washers are belt drive. Any reason why a plastic case on the
gearbox is not as good as steel? On a direct-drive it seems like
there would be little stress on the seals and bearings but I'm not so
sure about a plastic box on a belt drive.



  #3  
Old December 2nd 08, 01:37 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 372
Default Direct Drive vs Belt Drive for New Washer

"Art" wrote:

We had a direct drive Kenmore that only lasted a few years with just 2
adults in the house hold. The underwater seal went in the agitator
destroying the transmission.


Which model was it?

Hydrowave model?
  #4  
Old December 2nd 08, 02:55 AM posted to alt.home.repair
Bob
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Posts: 95
Default Direct Drive vs Belt Drive for New Washer

Ulysses wrote:
... I was under the impresson
that direct-drive had pretty much replaced belt drive washers due to
lower maintenance and easier repairs...


More importantly, the direct drive is cheaper to manufacture. Most
consumers place more importance on a low price than maintainability.
  #5  
Old December 2nd 08, 03:51 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 11,579
Default Direct Drive vs Belt Drive for New Washer

Ulysses wrote:
Any opinions on which is better for a new washing machine, belt-drive
or direct-drive? In a recent thread we were discussing my old Kenmore
direct-drive washer and how to fix it. I determined it needs a new
motor. I can get a used motor for $45 but who knows how long that
will last. A new motor is about $135 plus shipping. Plus another
$20- $30 for new "dogs" and a new coupler. A new Kenmore large
capacity washer from Sears is $299. The thing is it is a "steel belt
drive" and has a plastic case for the gearbox. I was under the
impresson that direct-drive had pretty much replaced belt drive
washers due to lower maintenance and easier repairs. There must be
some reason why new washers are belt drive. Any reason why a plastic
case on the gearbox is not as good as steel? On a direct-drive it
seems like there would be little stress on the seals and bearings but
I'm not so sure about a plastic box on a belt drive.


$150.00 for parts to repair the direct drive failure vs $6.00 for a new
belt.

Hmm. Let me think...


  #6  
Old December 2nd 08, 04:11 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 11,316
Default Direct Drive vs Belt Drive for New Washer

On Mon, 1 Dec 2008 18:21:41 -0500, "Art"
wrote:

We had a direct drive Kenmore that only lasted a few years with just 2
adults in the house hold. The underwater seal went in the agitator
destroying the transmission.


"Ulysses" wrote in message
...
Any opinions on which is better for a new washing machine, belt-drive
or direct-drive? In a recent thread we were discussing my old Kenmore
direct-drive washer and how to fix it. I determined it needs a new
motor. I can get a used motor for $45 but who knows how long that
will last. A new motor is about $135 plus shipping. Plus another $20-
$30 for new "dogs" and a new coupler. A new Kenmore large capacity
washer from Sears is $299. The thing is it is a "steel belt drive"
and has a plastic case for the gearbox. I was under the impresson
that direct-drive had pretty much replaced belt drive washers due to
lower maintenance and easier repairs. There must be some reason why
new washers are belt drive. Any reason why a plastic case on the
gearbox is not as good as steel? On a direct-drive it seems like
there would be little stress on the seals and bearings but I'm not so
sure about a plastic box on a belt drive.


Our first direct drive kenmore lastes 23 years through 2 kids with
cloth diapers. When the pump failed I replaced the whole washer. We
replaced the drive coupling under waerranty, and sold it after about 5
years and bought LG front loaders..

And don't even think about "american made". The ONLY Canadian or US
built washer we could have bought was - wait for this - a BOSCH.
  #7  
Old December 2nd 08, 04:12 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 11,316
Default Direct Drive vs Belt Drive for New Washer

On Mon, 01 Dec 2008 17:55:29 -0800, Bob wrote:

Ulysses wrote:
... I was under the impresson
that direct-drive had pretty much replaced belt drive washers due to
lower maintenance and easier repairs...


More importantly, the direct drive is cheaper to manufacture. Most
consumers place more importance on a low price than maintainability.



Any kluts with 10 thumbs can change the direct drive coupler on a
kenmore. As long as he owns a few tools. A flat screwdriver and a
vicegrip don't quite count.
  #8  
Old December 2nd 08, 11:31 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 25
Default Direct Drive vs Belt Drive for New Washer


$150.00 for parts to repair the direct drive failure vs $6.00 for a new
belt.

Hmm. Let me think...


I just replaced the direct drive coupling on my Whirlpool washer for $15
using a flat screwdriver and a phillips to get the cabinet off.

Worth it for me.
  #9  
Old December 2nd 08, 09:23 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 11,316
Default Direct Drive vs Belt Drive for New Washer

On Mon, 1 Dec 2008 20:51:26 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Ulysses wrote:
Any opinions on which is better for a new washing machine, belt-drive
or direct-drive? In a recent thread we were discussing my old Kenmore
direct-drive washer and how to fix it. I determined it needs a new
motor. I can get a used motor for $45 but who knows how long that
will last. A new motor is about $135 plus shipping. Plus another
$20- $30 for new "dogs" and a new coupler. A new Kenmore large
capacity washer from Sears is $299. The thing is it is a "steel belt
drive" and has a plastic case for the gearbox. I was under the
impresson that direct-drive had pretty much replaced belt drive
washers due to lower maintenance and easier repairs. There must be
some reason why new washers are belt drive. Any reason why a plastic
case on the gearbox is not as good as steel? On a direct-drive it
seems like there would be little stress on the seals and bearings but
I'm not so sure about a plastic box on a belt drive.


$150.00 for parts to repair the direct drive failure vs $6.00 for a new
belt.

Hmm. Let me think...

you forgot you still need the motor.

The coupler is about $27 and usually outlasts the belt about 2 or 3 to
1. And the labour involved is not substantially different.
  #10  
Old December 2nd 08, 09:53 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 6,205
Default Direct Drive vs Belt Drive for New Washer

On Dec 2, 3:23�pm, wrote:
On Mon, 1 Dec 2008 20:51:26 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:





Ulysses wrote:
Any opinions on which is better for a new washing machine, belt-drive
or direct-drive? �In a recent thread we were discussing my old Kenmore
direct-drive washer and how to fix it. �I determined it needs a new
motor. �I can get a used motor for $45 but who knows how long that
will last. �A new motor is about $135 plus shipping. �Plus another
$20- $30 for new "dogs" and a new coupler. �A new Kenmore large
capacity washer from Sears is $299. �The thing is it is a "steel belt
drive" and has a plastic case for the gearbox. �I was under the
impresson that direct-drive had pretty much replaced belt drive
washers due to lower maintenance and easier repairs. �There must be
some reason why new washers are belt drive. �Any reason why a plastic
case on the gearbox is not as good as steel? �On a direct-drive it
seems like there would be little stress on the seals and bearings but
I'm not so sure about a plastic box on a belt drive.


$150.00 for parts to repair the direct drive failure vs $6.00 for a new
belt.


Hmm. Let me think...


you forgot you still need the motor.

The coupler is about $27 and usually outlasts the belt about 2 or 3 to
1. And the labour involved is not substantially different.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


sears service is the most costly way to get any appliance repaired.

most likely other parts will fail so belt doesnt matter much
 




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