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lead (drain) pipe, drum trap questions



 
 
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  #1  
Old November 17th 08, 12:36 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 20
Default lead (drain) pipe, drum trap questions

We have a bathtub that has a drum trap - which appears to be lead, as do
the connecting pipes. (The stack is cast iron.) The trap is leaking.

I'm thinking to cut the lead pipe on the stack side of the trap, use a
rubber coupling to join that end to PVC from there to the tub. Is there
reason NOT to do this? The alternative would be to unsolder the lead
pipe from the stack Y, and connect the PVC there. This looks like it
would take big heat, and might never get clean enough for the new joint
to seal well.

TIA,
George
Ads
  #2  
Old November 17th 08, 01:13 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 205
Default lead (drain) pipe, drum trap questions

George wrote:
We have a bathtub that has a drum trap - which appears to be lead, as do
the connecting pipes. (The stack is cast iron.) The trap is leaking.

I'm thinking to cut the lead pipe on the stack side of the trap, use a
rubber coupling to join that end to PVC from there to the tub. Is there
reason NOT to do this? The alternative would be to unsolder the lead
pipe from the stack Y, and connect the PVC there. This looks like it
would take big heat, and might never get clean enough for the new joint
to seal well.

TIA,
George



All lead tub drainage was common from turn of century till 1920's.

I would cut the lead close to the stack entrance and use a
Mission-style coupling:
http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/flexi...tock-couplings
1056 series coupling to adapt to PVC.
If you can get to the stack connection, put the coupling over
the solder thimble where the lead attaches; that will help prevent
distortion of the lead. Sealant applied to the lead before sliding
the coupling on will help avoid leaks.

Use a PVC P-trap, such as #78515:
http://www.dafehr.com/Genova/gentrap...t%20(H%20x%20H)

There is one with a cleanout: #78415,
but the CO may not be accessible.

If there is room, insert a CO TEE: #71315

Jim
  #3  
Old November 17th 08, 01:23 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 6,205
Default lead (drain) pipe, drum trap questions

On Nov 17, 7:36�am, George wrote:
We have a bathtub that has a drum trap - which appears to be lead, as do
the connecting pipes. �(The stack is cast iron.) �The trap is leaking.

I'm thinking to cut the lead pipe on the stack side of the trap, use a
rubber coupling to join that end to PVC from there to the tub. �Is there
reason NOT to do this? �The alternative would be to unsolder the lead
pipe from the stack Y, and connect the PVC there. �This looks like it
would take big heat, and might never get clean enough for the new joint
to seal well.

TIA,
George


replace drum trap with PVC, replace the part that fits on the tub too,
brass is better there.

after repeatred problems over many years i had a plumber replace all
the lines from tub and sink too basement.

the cast iron was clogged and rotting, and had a crack, what remained
of copper was clogged, it was a mess, that damaged kitchen cieling
below. our home was built in 1950

for me the plumber was a good choice i dont want to see that cieling
cavatity again

the plumber managed to increase the slope of the sink drain, it emptys
better
  #4  
Old November 18th 08, 12:44 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 20
Default lead (drain) pipe, drum trap questions

On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 04:56:01 -0800 (PST), buffalobill
wrote:

On Nov 17, 7:36*am, George wrote:
We have a bathtub that has a drum trap - which appears to be lead, as do
the connecting pipes. *(The stack is cast iron.) *The trap is leaking.

I'm thinking to cut the lead pipe on the stack side of the trap, use a
rubber coupling to join that end to PVC from there to the tub. *Is there
reason NOT to do this? *The alternative would be to unsolder the lead
pipe from the stack Y, and connect the PVC there. *This looks like it
would take big heat, and might never get clean enough for the new joint
to seal well.

TIA,
George


buffalo ny: where is the leak?


Near the top. The trap cover screws into a (brass?) threaded ring. I
think this may be a separate piece, joined (soldered?) to the trap body,
and the leak is at that joint. It's not easy to get a good look at it,
and I could be misunderstanding things.

... is this a job for epoxy?


The situation is actually more complicated. The joists under the tub
are kind of ... distressed. I think they need sistering, which would be
easier with the pipes removed. AND, the last thing I want is to have to
take the ceiling down again, should an epoxy-ish fix fail.

... it is
probably not a soft lead pipe. probably a horizontal galvanized drain
pipe leak, feeding an iron or brass trap.


I could be wrong, but I think it's lead. All the metal is that dull
grey color, and none of it is magnetic. The joints have significant
build-up of solder. The pipes are curved, in a kind of 'hand-crafted'
way. And, the trap wall is kind of flattened on one side.

G
  #5  
Old November 18th 08, 03:20 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 20
Default lead (drain) pipe, drum trap questions

On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 08:13:07 -0500, Speedy Jim
wrote:

George wrote:
We have a bathtub that has a drum trap - which appears to be lead, as do
the connecting pipes. (The stack is cast iron.) The trap is leaking.

I'm thinking to cut the lead pipe on the stack side of the trap, use a
rubber coupling to join that end to PVC from there to the tub. Is there
reason NOT to do this? The alternative would be to unsolder the lead
pipe from the stack Y, and connect the PVC there. This looks like it
would take big heat, and might never get clean enough for the new joint
to seal well.

TIA,
George



All lead tub drainage was common from turn of century till 1920's.

I would cut the lead close to the stack entrance and use a
Mission-style coupling:
http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/flexi...tock-couplings
1056 series coupling to adapt to PVC.
If you can get to the stack connection, put the coupling over
the solder thimble where the lead attaches; that will help prevent
distortion of the lead. ...


That all makes sense, except it's so tight there. The (lead) pipes are
bent to fit.

I see that Genova lists a PVC drum trap (75715). At first blush, that
might simplify things. I gather that they're not recommended (and often
not code), but would that be a really BAD idea?

And, re the PVC drum: could it be mounted upside down, so the cleanout
was on the top? The current drum has an opening in the bathroom floor,
which could make the cleanout accessible.

Thanks,
G

  #6  
Old November 18th 08, 04:20 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 205
Default lead (drain) pipe, drum trap questions

George wrote:

On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 08:13:07 -0500, Speedy Jim
wrote:


George wrote:

We have a bathtub that has a drum trap - which appears to be lead, as do
the connecting pipes. (The stack is cast iron.) The trap is leaking.

I'm thinking to cut the lead pipe on the stack side of the trap, use a
rubber coupling to join that end to PVC from there to the tub. Is there
reason NOT to do this? The alternative would be to unsolder the lead
pipe from the stack Y, and connect the PVC there. This looks like it
would take big heat, and might never get clean enough for the new joint
to seal well.

TIA,
George



All lead tub drainage was common from turn of century till 1920's.

I would cut the lead close to the stack entrance and use a
Mission-style coupling:
http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/flexi...tock-couplings
1056 series coupling to adapt to PVC.
If you can get to the stack connection, put the coupling over
the solder thimble where the lead attaches; that will help prevent
distortion of the lead. ...



That all makes sense, except it's so tight there. The (lead) pipes are
bent to fit.

I see that Genova lists a PVC drum trap (75715). At first blush, that
might simplify things. I gather that they're not recommended (and often
not code), but would that be a really BAD idea?

And, re the PVC drum: could it be mounted upside down, so the cleanout
was on the top? The current drum has an opening in the bathroom floor,
which could make the cleanout accessible.

Thanks,
G


Yes, the PVC drum would make sense in your case and put the cleanout
on top.

The guys bending lead to avoid obstructions had a big advantage, eh?

Use great care cutting the old lead so that you don't disturb it,
possibly causing leaks elsewhere.

Jim
  #7  
Old November 18th 08, 04:23 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 6,205
Default lead (drain) pipe, drum trap questions

On Nov 18, 10:20�am, George wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 08:13:07 -0500, Speedy Jim





wrote:
George wrote:
We have a bathtub that has a drum trap - which appears to be lead, as do
the connecting pipes. �(The stack is cast iron.) �The trap is leaking.


I'm thinking to cut the lead pipe on the stack side of the trap, use a
rubber coupling to join that end to PVC from there to the tub. �Is there
reason NOT to do this? �The alternative would be to unsolder the lead
pipe from the stack Y, and connect the PVC there. �This looks like it
would take big heat, and might never get clean enough for the new joint
to seal well.


TIA,
George


All lead tub drainage was common from turn of century till 1920's.


I would cut the lead close to the stack entrance and use a
Mission-style coupling:
http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/flexi...tock-couplings
1056 series coupling to adapt to PVC.
If you can get to the stack connection, put the coupling over
the solder thimble where the lead attaches; that will help prevent
distortion of the lead. �...


That all makes sense, except it's so tight there. �The (lead) pipes are
bent to fit.

I see that Genova lists a PVC drum trap (75715). �At first blush, that
might simplify things. �I gather that they're not recommended (and often
not code), but would that be a really BAD idea?

And, re the PVC drum: could it be mounted upside down, so the cleanout
was on the top? �The current drum has an opening in the bathroom floor,
which could make the cleanout accessible.

Thanks,
G- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


drum traps are essentially obsolete and no longer used.

regular PVC traps can be easily snaked thru the tub control lever
location.

you cant snake a drum trap, the snake just winds itself into a knot
inside the drum.......

besides the top of the drum is just another leak spot.

do yourself a big favor, dont patch replace it ALL, unless you want to
revisit this again,'

piping tends to all fail close in time, design life i guess.

add distrubing things just leads to sooner faliures
  #8  
Old November 19th 08, 01:43 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 20
Default lead (drain) pipe, drum trap questions

On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 07:36:05 -0500, George wrote:

We have a bathtub that has a drum trap - which appears to be lead, as do
the connecting pipes. (The stack is cast iron.) The trap is leaking.

...


After reading these posts, I'm leaning toward replacing all the lead,
right to the wye, rather than risk a future leak. (On further
inspection, some of the soldering is ... 'curious-looking'.) But doing
this has its own problems. So, I have to do some thinking, which
doesn't go that quickly for me. Fortunately, we have a second shower.

Anyway, this has been very helpful, so thanks to all.

G

  #9  
Old November 20th 08, 12:11 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 6,205
Default lead (drain) pipe, drum trap questions

On Nov 19, 8:43�am, George wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 07:36:05 -0500, George wrote:
We have a bathtub that has a drum trap - which appears to be lead, as do
the connecting pipes. �(The stack is cast iron.) �The trap is leaking.


...


After reading these posts, I'm leaning toward replacing all the lead,
right to the wye, rather than risk a future leak. �(On further
inspection, some of the soldering is ... 'curious-looking'.) �But doing
this has its own problems. �So, I have to do some thinking, which
doesn't go that quickly for me. �Fortunately, we have a second shower.

Anyway, this has been very helpful, so thanks to all.

G


repacing all the line is always best. old stuff is well old and more
prone to fail.

a nice all new PVC line will likely outlive you.....
 




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