[Bernie Hunt]

OK, I now have 14 doors made of raw pine that need painting. Any suggestions
on how to paint them? I have the ability to spray or brush. Should I paint
them in place or remove them. I'm thinking remove them and paint them
upright, but I await any suggestions.

Bernie

[SteveB[_8_]]

Bernie Hunt wrote:

OK, I now have 14 doors made of raw pine that need painting. Any
suggestions on how to paint them? I have the ability to spray or brush.
Should I paint them in place or remove them. I'm thinking remove them
and paint them upright, but I await any suggestions.

You'll get the best finish if you spray them. It's most convenient to
paint them in place, but you'll get overspray everywhere. Take them down
and spray them in the garage.

* Label the doors on the top edge so you know where they go back.
* Take off all the hardware so you have no edges to worry about.
* Put some screweyes in the top and hang the doors so you can spray both
sides at the same time.
* Another trick is to put one screw in the top edge and two in the
bottom. Rest the screws on your sawhorses. You can then turn the door over
to paint the other side without touching it.
* If you paint the mortices where the hinges go, the doors will fit a
little tighter when you rehang them. This might be a good thing or a bad
thing.
* I usually line up all the doors around the garage and paint one side. I
paint the other side the next day. Use lots of drop cloths.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

[franz fripplfrappl]

On Tue, 08 Jul 2008 00:02:27 -0400, Bernie Hunt wrote:

OK, I now have 14 doors made of raw pine that need painting. Any
suggestions on how to paint them? I have the ability to spray or brush.
Should I paint them in place or remove them. I'm thinking remove them
and paint them upright, but I await any suggestions.

Bernie

Take them outdoors on a nice day and either paint or spray. Why have the
mess indoors? Removing the doors will make the work go faster and easier.



--

=================================================
Franz Fripplfrappl

[benick[_2_]]

"franz fripplfrappl" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 08 Jul 2008 00:02:27 -0400, Bernie Hunt wrote:

OK, I now have 14 doors made of raw pine that need painting. Any
suggestions on how to paint them? I have the ability to spray or brush.
Should I paint them in place or remove them. I'm thinking remove them
and paint them upright, but I await any suggestions.

Bernie

Take them outdoors on a nice day and either paint or spray. Why have the
mess indoors? Removing the doors will make the work go faster and easier.

Do not do them outdoors...Overspray will drift around and get on things like
your car or house or even worse your neighbors car or house , let alone all
the bugs,dust,ect you will collect on your door size pieces of
flypaper....Do as the previous poster suggested and you will be fine....



--

=================================================
Franz Fripplfrappl

[franz fripplfrappl]

On Tue, 08 Jul 2008 20:24:56 -0400, benick wrote:

"franz fripplfrappl" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 08 Jul 2008 00:02:27 -0400, Bernie Hunt wrote:

OK, I now have 14 doors made of raw pine that need painting. Any
suggestions on how to paint them? I have the ability to spray or
brush. Should I paint them in place or remove them. I'm thinking
remove them and paint them upright, but I await any suggestions.

Bernie

Take them outdoors on a nice day and either paint or spray. Why have
the mess indoors? Removing the doors will make the work go faster and
easier.

Do not do them outdoors...Overspray will drift around and get on things
like your car or house or even worse your neighbors car or house , let
alone all the bugs,dust,ect you will collect on your door size pieces
of flypaper....Do as the previous poster suggested and you will be
fine....



--

================================================= Franz Fripplfrappl

Come now, on a neighbor's house or car? I doubt it. As for bugs and
dust, that's not always an issue. Pick a nice day with no breeze. At
least you cold get the primer coat applied outdoors.



--

=================================================
Franz Fripplfrappl

[Red Green]

"benick" wrote in
:


"franz fripplfrappl" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 08 Jul 2008 00:02:27 -0400, Bernie Hunt wrote:

OK, I now have 14 doors made of raw pine that need painting. Any
suggestions on how to paint them? I have the ability to spray or
brush. Should I paint them in place or remove them. I'm thinking
remove them and paint them upright, but I await any suggestions.

Bernie

Take them outdoors on a nice day and either paint or spray. Why have
the mess indoors? Removing the doors will make the work go faster
and easier.

Do not do them outdoors...Overspray will drift around and get on
things like your car or house or even worse your neighbors car or
house , let alone all the bugs,dust,ect you will collect on your door
size pieces of flypaper....Do as the previous poster suggested and you
will be fine....



--

=================================================
Franz Fripplfrappl


I primed and painted a whole house a couple of months ago spraying.
Houses are pretty close. Just asked neighbor to move his car down the end
of his driveway when I was working nearby for a warm-fuzzy. No issues.
And that was with a 2800 PSI unit. The type with the spray head at the
end of a hose.

I assume door painting will be done with a much smaller hand held
sprayer.

[Art]

Take them down. Put 2 big screws in each end and lay them on a sawhorse.
Can now paint all sides at one time.



"Bernie Hunt" wrote in message
...
OK, I now have 14 doors made of raw pine that need painting. Any
suggestions on how to paint them? I have the ability to spray or brush.
Should I paint them in place or remove them. I'm thinking remove them and
paint them upright, but I await any suggestions.

Bernie

[ransley]

On Jul 7, 11:02*pm, "Bernie Hunt" wrote:
OK, I now have 14 doors made of raw pine that need painting. Any suggestions
on how to paint them? I have the ability to spray or brush. Should I paint
them in place or remove them. I'm thinking remove them and paint them
upright, but I await any suggestions.

Bernie

You are the first to ask instead of thinking to brush on a latex
primer and ruining it with latex paint, you are smarter. but prep is
Key. Benjamin Moore makes a Oil Primer " Enamel Underbody" that is to
be sanded with up to 320g, your Key is to get the perfect smooth
undercoat or Primer . Oil Penetrol is a great thinner for Moore Satin
Impervo. But you can go Laquer routes, But remember you need a sanding
Primer, to be sanded smooth as your finish will only be as good as
your base is prepped.

Worst is Latex, But I can make a brush on finish like spray , with
Impervo and Penetrol, better might be a laquer with a soft, sanded
primer.

[SteveB]

"Art" wrote in message
m...
Take them down. Put 2 big screws in each end and lay them on a sawhorse.
Can now paint all sides at one time.

Yes, that's a handy tip. I suggest you use Floetrol in the paint if it's
latex. It helps it to flow. As to inside/outside, you are the best judge
of where you have a good place. As to outside with no dust, wind, or bugs,
I really don't think there's a place on the planet that fits that
description. I know I have painted a few times I "thought" it was calm,
only to later find bugs and airborne flotsam.

One important thing: DO NOT APPEAR TO BE A NEWBIE OR IMBECILE BY LEAVING
ANY HARDWARE ON. Same goes for jambs. It's easy to remove, gives you a
professional looking job, and if you have any loose screws, you will find
out on remounting hardware. Just stick a matchstick in any loose screw hole
and break and trim off, and the screw will be a lot more secure. Do NOT use
any glue. Tape any glass or anything you don't want paint on.

Steve

[ransley]

On Jul 7, 11:02*pm, "Bernie Hunt" wrote:
OK, I now have 14 doors made of raw pine that need painting. Any suggestions
on how to paint them? I have the ability to spray or brush. Should I paint
them in place or remove them. I'm thinking remove them and paint them
upright, but I await any suggestions.

Bernie

If you spray them laying flat dust may ruin the finish, be sure to
practice first on technique.

[Bernie Hunt]

Darn, I was hoping to use my new box of 200 colors of crayon.

;}

Bernie

"Stephen King" wrote in message
...
Use paint.

[RicodJour]

On Jul 9, 2:58*am, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:

just stick a matchstick in any loose screw hole
and break and trim off, and the screw will be a lot more secure. *Do NOT use
any glue.

Why not use glue?

R

[RicodJour]

On Jul 9, 2:44*pm, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message

...
On Jul 9, 2:58 am, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:



just stick a matchstick in any loose screw hole
and break and trim off, and the screw will be a lot more secure. Do NOT
use
any glue.

Why not use glue?

R

Think ahead to when you want to get the screw OUT ............. *Or want to
tighten it. *Most glues will fracture into tiny pieces, not allowing for
tightening.

Besides that, the object is to get the screw to use inclined plane force of
physics to work. *So, you add more material to reinforce the grip.

Think of it this way ...... *you have a sloppy hole. *What you gonna do?
Fill it full of glue and stick a screw in the glue? *It's going to be loose,
since you can't screw it tight and bring everything together. *You'll end up
with a weak moveable joint from square one.

Or, at least that has been my experience from using glue and finding out it
just doesn't work as well as real wood for some things.

You weren't clear on your earlier post. I thought you were saying not
to use glue when you stick in the sliver of wood, which is something I
usually do. You're right that standard woodworking glue alone won't
be effective over the long term, but there's nothing wrong with using
glue and wood slivers. I just wanted to clarify that.

R

[charlie]

"SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote in message
...

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Jul 9, 2:58 am, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:

just stick a matchstick in any loose screw hole
and break and trim off, and the screw will be a lot more secure. Do NOT
use
any glue.

Why not use glue?

R

Think ahead to when you want to get the screw OUT ............. Or want
to tighten it. Most glues will fracture into tiny pieces, not allowing
for tightening.

Besides that, the object is to get the screw to use inclined plane force
of physics to work. So, you add more material to reinforce the grip.

Think of it this way ...... you have a sloppy hole. What you gonna do?
Fill it full of glue and stick a screw in the glue? It's going to be
loose, since you can't screw it tight and bring everything together.
You'll end up with a weak moveable joint from square one.

Or, at least that has been my experience from using glue and finding out
it just doesn't work as well as real wood for some things.

Steve

the right way is to plug the hole with a glued in dowel, cut off flush with
a chisel or a flush -cut saw, and redrill the hole.

[SteveB]

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Jul 9, 2:58 am, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:

just stick a matchstick in any loose screw hole
and break and trim off, and the screw will be a lot more secure. Do NOT
use
any glue.

Why not use glue?

R

Think ahead to when you want to get the screw OUT ............. Or want to
tighten it. Most glues will fracture into tiny pieces, not allowing for
tightening.

Besides that, the object is to get the screw to use inclined plane force of
physics to work. So, you add more material to reinforce the grip.

Think of it this way ...... you have a sloppy hole. What you gonna do?
Fill it full of glue and stick a screw in the glue? It's going to be loose,
since you can't screw it tight and bring everything together. You'll end up
with a weak moveable joint from square one.

Or, at least that has been my experience from using glue and finding out it
just doesn't work as well as real wood for some things.

Steve

[RicodJour]

On Jul 9, 7:28*pm, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message

You weren't clear on your earlier post. *I thought you were saying not
to use glue when you stick in the sliver of wood, which is something I
usually do. *You're right that standard woodworking glue alone won't
be effective over the long term, but there's nothing wrong with using
glue and wood slivers. *I just wanted to clarify that.


I agree. *I've put a lot of slivers in there, watching them go to wherever
lost socks go. *Only thing I can think of is drying time. *But if you want
to wait, and that's what works for you, results are what we want.

There is no drying time. I like to use toothpicks, the square ones
that transition into smooth tapered cones at either end. I smear a
little glue on one toothpick's end and stick it into the hole, break
it off flush, put glue on the broken end and stick that into the hole,
then just screw on the hinge. Essentially I'm reversing the ends so
not all of the tapers are pointing in the same direction. The glue
will dry on its own schedule while I'm off working on mine.

R

[SteveB]

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Jul 9, 2:44 pm, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message

...
On Jul 9, 2:58 am, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:



just stick a matchstick in any loose screw hole
and break and trim off, and the screw will be a lot more secure. Do NOT
use
any glue.

Why not use glue?

R

Think ahead to when you want to get the screw OUT ............. Or want to
tighten it. Most glues will fracture into tiny pieces, not allowing for
tightening.

Besides that, the object is to get the screw to use inclined plane force
of
physics to work. So, you add more material to reinforce the grip.

Think of it this way ...... you have a sloppy hole. What you gonna do?
Fill it full of glue and stick a screw in the glue? It's going to be
loose,
since you can't screw it tight and bring everything together. You'll end
up
with a weak moveable joint from square one.

Or, at least that has been my experience from using glue and finding out
it
just doesn't work as well as real wood for some things.

You weren't clear on your earlier post. I thought you were saying not
to use glue when you stick in the sliver of wood, which is something I
usually do. You're right that standard woodworking glue alone won't
be effective over the long term, but there's nothing wrong with using
glue and wood slivers. I just wanted to clarify that.

R

I agree. I've put a lot of slivers in there, watching them go to wherever
lost socks go. Only thing I can think of is drying time. But if you want
to wait, and that's what works for you, results are what we want.

Steve

[Red Green]

RicodJour wrote in
:

On Jul 9, 7:28*pm, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message

You weren't clear on your earlier post. *I thought you were saying
not to use glue when you stick in the sliver of wood, which is
something I usually do. *You're right that standard woodworking glue
alone won't be effective over the long term, but there's nothing
wrong with using glue and wood slivers. *I just wanted to clarify
that.


I agree. *I've put a lot of slivers in there, watching them go to
where
ver
lost socks go. *Only thing I can think of is drying time. *But if you
want
to wait, and that's what works for you, results are what we want.

There is no drying time. I like to use toothpicks, the square ones
that transition into smooth tapered cones at either end. I smear a
little glue on one toothpick's end and stick it into the hole, break
it off flush, put glue on the broken end and stick that into the hole,
then just screw on the hinge. Essentially I'm reversing the ends so
not all of the tapers are pointing in the same direction. The glue
will dry on its own schedule while I'm off working on mine.

R


break it off flush,

Variation: I'll often snip them off a little long with pointed wire
cutters then hammer them till their flush to maximize the actual wood in
the hole. When the glue and wood are dry, shave it off flush if
necessary..

[Art]

"SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote in message
...

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Jul 9, 2:58 am, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:

just stick a matchstick in any loose screw hole
and break and trim off, and the screw will be a lot more secure. Do NOT
use
any glue.

Why not use glue?

R

Think ahead to when you want to get the screw OUT ............. Or want
to tighten it. Most glues will fracture into tiny pieces, not allowing
for tightening.

Besides that, the object is to get the screw to use inclined plane force
of physics to work. So, you add more material to reinforce the grip.

Think of it this way ...... you have a sloppy hole. What you gonna do?
Fill it full of glue and stick a screw in the glue? It's going to be
loose, since you can't screw it tight and bring everything together.
You'll end up with a weak moveable joint from square one.

Or, at least that has been my experience from using glue and finding out
it just doesn't work as well as real wood for some things.

Steve

Wood glue with toothpicks works well to fix a hole.

[Ken]

** Put some screweyes in the top and hang the doors so you can spray both
sides at the same time.

Just a little reminder that doors have *six* sides, not two. For a
wood door it's important to finish the top and bottom edges too to
help control the migration of moisture in and out of the wood as the
humidity changes. Helps to reduce the frequency of doors warping, not
closing properly, etc.

Ken

[DerbyDad03]

On Jul 9, 1:21*pm, "charlie"
wrote:
"SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote in message

...







"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Jul 9, 2:58 am, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:

just stick a matchstick in any loose screw hole
and break and trim off, and the screw will be a lot more secure. Do NOT
use
any glue.

Why not use glue?

R

Think ahead to when you want to get the screw OUT ............. *Or want
to tighten it. *Most glues will fracture into tiny pieces, not allowing
for tightening.

Besides that, the object is to get the screw to use inclined plane force
of physics to work. *So, you add more material to reinforce the grip.

Think of it this way ...... *you have a sloppy hole. *What you gonna do?
Fill it full of glue and stick a screw in the glue? *It's going to be
loose, since you can't screw it tight and bring everything together.
You'll end up with a weak moveable joint from square one.

Or, at least that has been my experience from using glue and finding out
it just doesn't work as well as real wood for some things.

Steve

the right way is to plug the hole with a glued in dowel, cut off flush with
a chisel or a flush -cut saw, and redrill the hole.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

the right way is to plug the hole with a glued in dowel

I've looked for really, really skinny dowels to fill screw holes and I
just can't find them *anywhere*.

[RicodJour]

On Jul 10, 3:42*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jul 9, 1:21*pm, "charlie"
wrote:



"SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote in message

...

"RicodJour" wrote in message
....
On Jul 9, 2:58 am, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:

just stick a matchstick in any loose screw hole
and break and trim off, and the screw will be a lot more secure. Do NOT
use
any glue.

Why not use glue?

R

Think ahead to when you want to get the screw OUT ............. *Or want
to tighten it. *Most glues will fracture into tiny pieces, not allowing
for tightening.

Besides that, the object is to get the screw to use inclined plane force
of physics to work. *So, you add more material to reinforce the grip.

Think of it this way ...... *you have a sloppy hole. *What you gonna do?
Fill it full of glue and stick a screw in the glue? *It's going to be
loose, since you can't screw it tight and bring everything together.
You'll end up with a weak moveable joint from square one.

Or, at least that has been my experience from using glue and finding out
it just doesn't work as well as real wood for some things.

Steve

the right way is to plug the hole with a glued in dowel, cut off flush with
a chisel or a flush -cut saw, and redrill the hole.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

the right way is to plug the hole with a glued in dowel

I've looked for really, really skinny dowels to fill screw holes and I
just can't find them *anywhere*.

Golf tees.

R

[charlie]

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Jul 10, 3:42 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jul 9, 1:21 pm, "charlie"
wrote:



"SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote in message

...

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Jul 9, 2:58 am, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote:

just stick a matchstick in any loose screw hole
and break and trim off, and the screw will be a lot more secure. Do
NOT
use
any glue.

Why not use glue?

R

Think ahead to when you want to get the screw OUT ............. Or
want
to tighten it. Most glues will fracture into tiny pieces, not allowing
for tightening.

Besides that, the object is to get the screw to use inclined plane
force
of physics to work. So, you add more material to reinforce the grip.

Think of it this way ...... you have a sloppy hole. What you gonna do?
Fill it full of glue and stick a screw in the glue? It's going to be
loose, since you can't screw it tight and bring everything together.
You'll end up with a weak moveable joint from square one.

Or, at least that has been my experience from using glue and finding
out
it just doesn't work as well as real wood for some things.

Steve

the right way is to plug the hole with a glued in dowel, cut off flush
with
a chisel or a flush -cut saw, and redrill the hole.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

the right way is to plug the hole with a glued in dowel

I've looked for really, really skinny dowels to fill screw holes and I
just can't find them *anywhere*.

Golf tees.

R

--

or make the holes larger by drilling them out to a size that you can find a
dowel for. you can get thin dowels at a hobby store (michaels, hobby lobby),
places that sell parts for r/c plan construction, or even home depot.
failing that, you can carve a larger one down with a pen knife or chuck it
in a drill and sand it down.