[bent]

I bought an Aqua Coastal Champion 56-frame pool pump from Interpools.com
here in Toronto for a 16x32' in ground pool. It is made by
Waterwayplastics.com in Oxnard, CA. It is 1.0 h.p self priming and says it
has 115/230 option although on the boxes sticker "110AC" is written in a
couple places. I write all this because I am a duffus. The wiring I have
going to the pool pump has a black wire, a white wire, and a green (or
ground) wire, coming from an electrrician installed (probly req'd by
Canadadian code) CFCI throw attached to the main fuse box running
underground inside.



This pump has two ways to wire it inside the cover plate which they call
"Low Voltage" or "High Voltage". There are only two internal connectors,
plus a third for ground. For Low it is one way for High it is the reverse.
They are labelled "White" and "Brown". Which way do I wire it? Is this
enough information? The store so far: nada.


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[terry]

On Jun 14, 3:31*pm, "bent" wrote:
I bought an Aqua Coastal Champion 56-frame pool pump from Interpools.com
here in Toronto for a 16x32' in ground pool. *It is made by
Waterwayplastics.com in Oxnard, CA. *It is 1.0 h.p self priming and says it
has 115/230 option although on the boxes sticker "110AC" is written in a
couple places. *I write all this because I am a duffus. *The wiring I have
going to the pool pump has a black wire, a white wire, and a green (or
ground) wire, coming from an electrrician installed (probly req'd by
Canadadian code) CFCI throw attached to the main fuse box running
underground inside.

This pump has two ways to wire it inside the cover plate which they call
"Low Voltage" or "High Voltage". *There are only two internal connectors,
plus a third for ground. *For Low it is one way for High it is the reverse.
They are labelled "White" and "Brown". *Which way do I wire it? *Is this
enough information? *The store so far: nada.

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Crikey: If you have to ask this sort of question and by own admission
is a "duffus" then don't go at it!
Especially for a pool installation where a fault could be a fatal.
Get an electrician who really knows what they are doing and will
ensure proper grounding and GFCI operation.
Also there are aspects of legal and insurance liability.
Stores probably hope they are selling something that is 'plug and
play'; but there can always be technical circumstances not noticed by
the unitiated that make something not safe.
Safest in my opinion would be TO NEVER HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE
POOL PLUGGED IN WHILE POOL IS IN USE!
But someone could always forget!!!!!

[bent]

This is the twentieth year everything has been done safely by us, but its a
new pump, I believe there is probably enough information, if not tell me.
There are only two ways to plug it in, and by duffus, I am stating I don't
know why, but the fact that there is and always has been only a white wire
and a balck witre, plus ground leads me to believe it that this is the key
to the solution. Its unthinkable that the store can't tell me whivh wire
goes where. Nothing needs to be wired. It just needs to be plugged in.
Pls.


"terry" wrote in message
...
On Jun 14, 3:31 pm, "bent" wrote:
I bought an Aqua Coastal Champion 56-frame pool pump from Interpools.com
here in Toronto for a 16x32' in ground pool. It is made by
Waterwayplastics.com in Oxnard, CA. It is 1.0 h.p self priming and says it
has 115/230 option although on the boxes sticker "110AC" is written in a
couple places. I write all this because I am a duffus. The wiring I have
going to the pool pump has a black wire, a white wire, and a green (or
ground) wire, coming from an electrrician installed (probly req'd by
Canadadian code) CFCI throw attached to the main fuse box running
underground inside.

This pump has two ways to wire it inside the cover plate which they call
"Low Voltage" or "High Voltage". There are only two internal connectors,
plus a third for ground. For Low it is one way for High it is the reverse.
They are labelled "White" and "Brown". Which way do I wire it? Is this
enough information? The store so far: nada.

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Crikey: If you have to ask this sort of question and by own admission
is a "duffus" then don't go at it!
Especially for a pool installation where a fault could be a fatal.
Get an electrician who really knows what they are doing and will
ensure proper grounding and GFCI operation.
Also there are aspects of legal and insurance liability.
Stores probably hope they are selling something that is 'plug and
play'; but there can always be technical circumstances not noticed by
the unitiated that make something not safe.
Safest in my opinion would be TO NEVER HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE
POOL PLUGGED IN WHILE POOL IS IN USE!
But someone could always forget!!!!!


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[Ralph Mowery]

"bent" wrote in message
...
I bought an Aqua Coastal Champion 56-frame pool pump from Interpools.com
here in Toronto for a 16x32' in ground pool. It is made by
Waterwayplastics.com in Oxnard, CA. It is 1.0 h.p self priming and says it
has 115/230 option although on the boxes sticker "110AC" is written in a
couple places. I write all this because I am a duffus. The wiring I have
going to the pool pump has a black wire, a white wire, and a green (or
ground) wire, coming from an electrrician installed (probly req'd by
Canadadian code) CFCI throw attached to the main fuse box running
underground inside.



This pump has two ways to wire it inside the cover plate which they call
"Low Voltage" or "High Voltage". There are only two internal connectors,
plus a third for ground. For Low it is one way for High it is the
reverse. They are labelled "White" and "Brown". Which way do I wire it?
Is this enough information? The store so far: nada.


You wire it for whatever voltage you have. If you have 230 volts, use the
high voltage and for 115 use the low voltage connection. You need to find
out what voltage is comming to the pump on the black and white wires.

[Silver Surfer[_2_]]

Have you considered sending the folks at Waterway Plastics an email? Their
address is shown on their Web site.

"bent" wrote in message
...
I bought an Aqua Coastal Champion 56-frame pool pump from Interpools.com
here in Toronto for a 16x32' in ground pool. It is made by
Waterwayplastics.com in Oxnard, CA. It is 1.0 h.p self priming and says it
has 115/230 option although on the boxes sticker "110AC" is written in a
couple places. I write all this because I am a duffus. The wiring I have
going to the pool pump has a black wire, a white wire, and a green (or
ground) wire, coming from an electrrician installed (probly req'd by
Canadadian code) CFCI throw attached to the main fuse box running
underground inside.



This pump has two ways to wire it inside the cover plate which they call
"Low Voltage" or "High Voltage". There are only two internal connectors,
plus a third for ground. For Low it is one way for High it is the
reverse. They are labelled "White" and "Brown". Which way do I wire it?
Is this enough information? The store so far: nada.

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[Dave[_26_]]

It's unthinkable that the wiring for the pool has to be done by a licensed
electrician and now you want to change a permanently wired pump and not need
an electrician! If you don't know how get an expert. Safer and legal.


"bent" wrote in message
...
This is the twentieth year everything has been done safely by us, but its
a new pump, I believe there is probably enough information, if not tell
me. There are only two ways to plug it in, and by duffus, I am stating I
don't know why, but the fact that there is and always has been only a
white wire and a balck witre, plus ground leads me to believe it that this
is the key to the solution. Its unthinkable that the store can't tell me
whivh wire goes where. Nothing needs to be wired. It just needs to be
plugged in. Pls.


"terry" wrote in message
...
On Jun 14, 3:31 pm, "bent" wrote:
I bought an Aqua Coastal Champion 56-frame pool pump from Interpools.com
here in Toronto for a 16x32' in ground pool. It is made by
Waterwayplastics.com in Oxnard, CA. It is 1.0 h.p self priming and says
it
has 115/230 option although on the boxes sticker "110AC" is written in a
couple places. I write all this because I am a duffus. The wiring I have
going to the pool pump has a black wire, a white wire, and a green (or
ground) wire, coming from an electrrician installed (probly req'd by
Canadadian code) CFCI throw attached to the main fuse box running
underground inside.

This pump has two ways to wire it inside the cover plate which they call
"Low Voltage" or "High Voltage". There are only two internal connectors,
plus a third for ground. For Low it is one way for High it is the
reverse.
They are labelled "White" and "Brown". Which way do I wire it? Is this
enough information? The store so far: nada.

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120,000+ Newsgroups
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Crikey: If you have to ask this sort of question and by own admission
is a "duffus" then don't go at it!
Especially for a pool installation where a fault could be a fatal.
Get an electrician who really knows what they are doing and will
ensure proper grounding and GFCI operation.
Also there are aspects of legal and insurance liability.
Stores probably hope they are selling something that is 'plug and
play'; but there can always be technical circumstances not noticed by
the unitiated that make something not safe.
Safest in my opinion would be TO NEVER HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE
POOL PLUGGED IN WHILE POOL IS IN USE!
But someone could always forget!!!!!


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[bent]

I had a $4 tester to tell me it was 110V out from house. i then realised
the label options L1 L2 white brown were factory wired white brown from the
motor (not house power) and was left with L1 and L2, which could only be hot
& neutral from house. Either way works. The way it works now white is to
white and power (black from house) is L2, as opposed to vise versa, which I
said also works. It says not reversible, so that may explain. After I reset
the white brown from the motor entirely (to assumption "Low Voltage". I was
reding it wrong.


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[bent]

whops, power is now L1 (as opposed to vise versa), and it was factory wired
for wht and brw for 230V.


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[Phil again]

The wiring I have going to the pool pump has a black wire, a white
wire, and a green (or ground) wire, coming from an electrician
installed

Bad guy wears the black hat, the good guy wears a white hat.

Black wire (bad) is 120VAC (or 110, or 115 depending on local utility)
white were (good) is neutral
Green is safety, just in case white wire breaks.

Normally, the black wire goes to the circuit breaker, the white and green
wires goes to common wire gang blocks. All on / off switches should open
close the black wire connection.

The color of the insulation is just that, covering of the wire. All
wires are equal under the insulation.

Phil

[RBM[_2_]]

"bent" wrote in message
...
I bought an Aqua Coastal Champion 56-frame pool pump from Interpools.com
here in Toronto for a 16x32' in ground pool. It is made by
Waterwayplastics.com in Oxnard, CA. It is 1.0 h.p self priming and says it
has 115/230 option although on the boxes sticker "110AC" is written in a
couple places. I write all this because I am a duffus. The wiring I have
going to the pool pump has a black wire, a white wire, and a green (or
ground) wire, coming from an electrrician installed (probly req'd by
Canadadian code) CFCI throw attached to the main fuse box running
underground inside.



This pump has two ways to wire it inside the cover plate which they call
"Low Voltage" or "High Voltage". There are only two internal connectors,
plus a third for ground. For Low it is one way for High it is the
reverse. They are labelled "White" and "Brown". Which way do I wire it?
Is this enough information? The store so far: nada.

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Your motor is a dual voltage motor. They stuck stickers on the box to let
you know how the motor was set at the factory. You need to verify the
voltage you have and connect the motor accordingly. Don't guess at anything,
if you're not sure, get some help

[bent]

ok now that its been running 1 hr incorrect and 24 hours presumably correct
let me explain the problem. After 1 hr of being connected incorrectly it
shut itself off so I had to study the label more carefully. I then decided
what was wrong it was factory wired for 230V. I now assume "Low Voltage"
means 110V and "High Voltage" means 220V. Originally I never thought I'd
have to re-wire the wires internally to the pump, whatever else happened. I
assumed the label schematic notations were all for the same wires - my house
wires. I though "Brown" was a type of power, not a wire color. There are 4
posts inside (aligned Vertically top to bottom labelled B L1 L2 A) the
weatherproof cover and 2 wires with clips that slide off those posts to the
motor internally which are White and Brown in colour. Then there is the
ground screw which is clearly marked. I supply the wires to the house
(white black green).

So now I know that after I reconnected the Brown and White wires from the
motor internally to the Low Voltage posts (they were on the High Voltage
posts). Origianlly I though White and Brown and L1 and L2 were all labels
for my house wires, and because the schematic for the Low or the High
setting had White and Brown physically above and one was below /vice versa I
thought my only option was to put my house white and black wires either one
way or the other, on the other available 2 (of 4 total binding posts). But
for the Low setting there is a common post. For thiose who understand
motors I tried both my house white and black as either L1 or L2 and it woked
either way (with high pressure flow). Considering the label
"non-reversible. I have two options for white and black L1 and L2. Because
for the Low setting (only) there is a shared post (a wire from both the
motor and house to the same binding post - the motor one is white in colour
and that leaves either white or black from the house, so which one? How
about the white one (not the alternate black one =- though that works with
equal pump pressure too) - this leaves L1 as black (hot). This is how it is
now and been running for a day.

My only other option is black from house to white from motor, not as logical
is it? I have got it right now don't I!? Before I was supplying 110V to
the middle 2 of the 4 posts, but factory wired for High V with the Brown
motor wire on bottom as schematic (and white house to L2 as per Low in
schematic). Why was it running slow and why did it trip the GFCI? the pump
is "Thermally protected" too.

Originally I never saw the Brwon and White pump wires, nor could I figure
why they labelled all house wiring only as "L1" and "L2".

This is the schematic:

Low V High V

Brown O B White
O L1
White O L2
O A Brown

So now I have pump wiring as on left and my black house as L1, and my white
house as shared white (white house to white pump). Good?
It works the other way too! Why? Same as reversing the white and black
plug on an extention cord? Is either way just as good (in this wiring
hardware question)


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[RBM[_2_]]

"bent" wrote in message
...
ok now that its been running 1 hr incorrect and 24 hours presumably
correct let me explain the problem. After 1 hr of being connected
incorrectly it shut itself off so I had to study the label more carefully.
I then decided what was wrong it was factory wired for 230V. I now assume
"Low Voltage" means 110V and "High Voltage" means 220V. Originally I
never thought I'd have to re-wire the wires internally to the pump,
whatever else happened. I assumed the label schematic notations were all
for the same wires - my house wires. I though "Brown" was a type of
power, not a wire color. There are 4 posts inside (aligned Vertically top
to bottom labelled B L1 L2 A) the weatherproof cover and 2 wires with
clips that slide off those posts to the motor internally which are White
and Brown in colour. Then there is the ground screw which is clearly
marked. I supply the wires to the house (white black green).

So now I know that after I reconnected the Brown and White wires from the
motor internally to the Low Voltage posts (they were on the High Voltage
posts). Origianlly I though White and Brown and L1 and L2 were all labels
for my house wires, and because the schematic for the Low or the High
setting had White and Brown physically above and one was below /vice versa
I thought my only option was to put my house white and black wires either
one way or the other, on the other available 2 (of 4 total binding posts).
But for the Low setting there is a common post. For thiose who understand
motors I tried both my house white and black as either L1 or L2 and it
woked either way (with high pressure flow). Considering the label
"non-reversible. I have two options for white and black L1 and L2.
Because for the Low setting (only) there is a shared post (a wire from
both the motor and house to the same binding post - the motor one is white
in colour and that leaves either white or black from the house, so which
one? How about the white one (not the alternate black one =- though that
works with equal pump pressure too) - this leaves L1 as black (hot). This
is how it is now and been running for a day.

My only other option is black from house to white from motor, not as
logical is it? I have got it right now don't I!? Before I was supplying
110V to the middle 2 of the 4 posts, but factory wired for High V with the
Brown motor wire on bottom as schematic (and white house to L2 as per Low
in schematic). Why was it running slow and why did it trip the GFCI? the
pump is "Thermally protected" too.

Originally I never saw the Brwon and White pump wires, nor could I figure
why they labelled all house wiring only as "L1" and "L2".

This is the schematic:

Low V High V

Brown O B White
O L1
White O L2
O A Brown

So now I have pump wiring as on left and my black house as L1, and my
white house as shared white (white house to white pump). Good?
It works the other way too! Why? Same as reversing the white and black
plug on an extention cord? Is either way just as good (in this wiring
hardware question)

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If the factory had set up the pump for 120 volt and you connected it to 240
volt, you'd be begging for a refund on a burnt out motor. There is obviously
more tolerance connecting a motor wired for 240 volt connected to a 120 volt
circuit. Still you got lucky. Typically L1 of a 120 volt circuit is the hot
and L2, the neutral, but it would work connected in reverse

[bent]

While we are on the topic. I understand that 110V in a fuse box is all
there is available to connect to. Its a rail. If you want 220V you have to
use 2x 110V. Can't remember if there are 2 rails, or how it works.
Probably. Anyways, with a 110V std. wall plug you have the hot (black),
neutral (I have just learned by poster above) the white is "neutral", forgot
what it was, but it kinda explains what it does (or not), ground is into
the earth via rod pounded into earth and plumbing pipes used etc. So a 110V
needs 3 wires. Since 220V has 2 x 110V does not a 220V ned by definition 4
conductors. I know my dryer plug has 4 conductors because its got a 4-prong
plug. If I needed to be sure if my wire out from house was a 110V couldn't
I at the very most check it by counting the number of wires through to and
in the sleeve and boxes the cable was connected to (magnifying glass etc.)
Or might a 220V only have 3 wires as here?

My problem here was obviously I was (could) not read the schematic, until it
died after 1 hr itself, at which point I knew something in my (lack of)
thnking wasn't right.

oh, btw, between the pump and the wires out of the ground from the house
each year we disconnect not the pump but a weatherproof swirch box and bring
it inside, wrapping the wiring from the elements and leaving the pump itself
wired up to the box inside. What if I did ground to ground (screwed onto
steel box), black to black (marette), and white to one side of 2-screw
switch, and the other white to the other screw of that 2-screw switch. I
think someone here said to switch black, not white as I did. I will do
black next year. Is it bad to wait a few months. What could happen e.g
GFCI and all?


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[RBM[_2_]]

"bent" wrote in message
...
While we are on the topic. I understand that 110V in a fuse box is all
there is available to connect to. Its a rail. If you want 220V you have
to use 2x 110V. Can't remember if there are 2 rails, or how it works.
Probably. Anyways, with a 110V std. wall plug you have the hot (black),
neutral (I have just learned by poster above) the white is "neutral",
forgot what it was, but it kinda explains what it does (or not), ground
is into the earth via rod pounded into earth and plumbing pipes used etc.
So a 110V needs 3 wires. Since 220V has 2 x 110V does not a 220V ned by
definition 4 conductors. I know my dryer plug has 4 conductors because
its got a 4-prong plug. If I needed to be sure if my wire out from house
was a 110V couldn't I at the very most check it by counting the number of
wires through to and in the sleeve and boxes the cable was connected to
(magnifying glass etc.) Or might a 220V only have 3 wires as here?

My problem here was obviously I was (could) not read the schematic, until
it died after 1 hr itself, at which point I knew something in my (lack of)
thnking wasn't right.

oh, btw, between the pump and the wires out of the ground from the house
each year we disconnect not the pump but a weatherproof swirch box and
bring it inside, wrapping the wiring from the elements and leaving the
pump itself wired up to the box inside. What if I did ground to ground
(screwed onto steel box), black to black (marette), and white to one side
of 2-screw switch, and the other white to the other screw of that 2-screw
switch. I think someone here said to switch black, not white as I did. I
will do black next year. Is it bad to wait a few months. What could
happen e.g GFCI and all?

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Yes, 120 volt circuits connect to one leg of hot buss in the panel and the
neutral bar, a ground is also required, which connects to the ground bar,
which is in some cases the same as the neutral bar. 240 volt circuits
connect to 2 legs of the hot buss, and also require a ground. Your electric
dryer only has 4 wires because it uses both 120 and 240 volts, which is why
it has a neutral. Straight 240 volt circuits will only have the current
carrying conductors and a ground. If you don't have an electrical tester,
you can determine a 120 volt circuit from a 240, by the single pole or
double pole breaker its attached to