[Limp Arbor]

Darn termites!

I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
story house. Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.

28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. Jack the house 10'
at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
slide in a new PT sill.

The last 12' however will be a PITA.
The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access
(maybe removable)
The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
damaged
The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
on this 12'
Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
installed

Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end
wall)

[Robatoy[_2_]]

On Feb 20, 3:16*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
Darn termites!

I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
story house. *Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.

28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. *Jack the house 10'
at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
slide in a new PT sill.

The last 12' however will be a PITA.
The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access
(maybe removable)
The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
damaged
The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
on this 12'
Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
installed

Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end
wall)

You MUST be talking 10"? Even that seems rather excessive.

[Robert Allison[_2_]]

Limp Arbor wrote:

Darn termites!

I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
story house. Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.

28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. Jack the house 10'
at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
slide in a new PT sill.

The last 12' however will be a PITA.
The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access
(maybe removable)
The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
damaged
The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
on this 12'
Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
installed

Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end
wall)


Sure, but nothing I am going to try to describe over the
internet. Especially without having seen the entire situation up
close and personal. Too many variables in this equation.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

[DerbyDad03]

On Feb 20, 3:21*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Feb 20, 3:16*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:





Darn termites!

I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
story house. *Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.

28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. *Jack the house 10'
at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
slide in a new PT sill.

The last 12' however will be a PITA.
The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access
(maybe removable)
The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
damaged
The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
on this 12'
Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
installed

Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end
wall)

You MUST be talking 10"? Even that seems rather excessive.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I believe he means 10' along the horizontal, not 10' (or even 10") up.

[Limp Arbor]

On Feb 20, 3:21*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Feb 20, 3:16*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:





Darn termites!

I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
story house. *Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.

28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. *Jack the house 10'
at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
slide in a new PT sill.

The last 12' however will be a PITA.
The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access
(maybe removable)
The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
damaged
The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
on this 12'
Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
installed

Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end
wall)

You MUST be talking 10"? Even that seems rather excessive.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I mean to jack 10' of the length at a time not lift it 10". I only
plan on lifting it a CH just so I can get the old wood out and new
wood in.

[ransley]

On Feb 20, 2:16*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
Darn termites!

I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
story house. *Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.

28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. *Jack the house 10'
at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
slide in a new PT sill.

The last 12' however will be a PITA.
The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access
(maybe removable)
The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
damaged
The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
on this 12'
Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
installed

Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end
wall)

Where do you have to put in the bolts, in the foundation wall?

[Limp Arbor]

On Feb 20, 3:29*pm, ransley wrote:
On Feb 20, 2:16*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:





Darn termites!

I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
story house. *Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.

28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. *Jack the house 10'
at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
slide in a new PT sill.

The last 12' however will be a PITA.
The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access
(maybe removable)
The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
damaged
The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
on this 12'
Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
installed

Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end
wall)

Where do you have to put in the bolts, in the foundation wall?- Hide quoted text -


I assume so, this isn't that much of a problem since there are no
bolts there now and the cinder block is not filled. I could drill the
new sill and install the bolts then fill the holes in the block with
mortar put in the sill and shove the bolts down into the wet mortar.
Tighten them up when it dries. Kind of silly but this is required
since a new building needs them so a replacement of that part (sill)
requires them.

[DerbyDad03]

On Feb 20, 3:27*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
On Feb 20, 3:21*pm, Robatoy wrote:





On Feb 20, 3:16*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:

Darn termites!

I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
story house. *Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.

28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. *Jack the house 10'
at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
slide in a new PT sill.

The last 12' however will be a PITA.
The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access
(maybe removable)
The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
damaged
The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
on this 12'
Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
installed

Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end
wall)

You MUST be talking 10"? Even that seems rather excessive.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I mean to jack 10' of the length at a time not lift it 10". *I only
plan on lifting it a CH just so I can get the old wood out and new
wood in.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Would that be an RCH?

[Limp Arbor]

On Feb 20, 3:45*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Feb 20, 3:27*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:

I mean to jack 10' of the length at a time not lift it 10". *I only
plan on lifting it a CH just so I can get the old wood out and new
wood in

Would that be an RCH?

Gentlemen prefer Blondes

[Robatoy[_2_]]

On Feb 20, 3:27*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
On Feb 20, 3:21*pm, Robatoy wrote:



On Feb 20, 3:16*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:

Darn termites!

I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
story house. *Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.

28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. *Jack the house 10'
at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
slide in a new PT sill.

The last 12' however will be a PITA.
The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access
(maybe removable)
The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
damaged
The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
on this 12'
Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
installed

Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end
wall)

You MUST be talking 10"? Even that seems rather excessive.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I mean to jack 10' of the length at a time not lift it 10". *I only
plan on lifting it a CH just so I can get the old wood out and new
wood in.

That makes more sense... sorry, I tend to ask questions when I don't
'get it'.

[Robatoy[_2_]]

On Feb 20, 3:50*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
On Feb 20, 3:45*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Feb 20, 3:27*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:

I mean to jack 10' of the length at a time not lift it 10". *I only
plan on lifting it a CH just so I can get the old wood out and new
wood in

Would that be an RCH?

Gentlemen prefer Blondes

SCH... Swedish... indeed.

r--- who thinks the Limp Arbor name is a good one.

[Oren[_2_]]

On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 12:16:55 -0800 (PST), Limp Arbor
wrote:

And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
installed

Around here they call them "redheads" - a sill anchor. ask the
inspector what he wants and satisfy him.
--
Oren

[Ivan Vegvary]

"Limp Arbor" wrote in message
...
Darn termites!

I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
story house. Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.

28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. Jack the house 10'
at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
slide in a new PT sill.

The last 12' however will be a PITA.
The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access
(maybe removable)
The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
damaged
The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
on this 12'
Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
installed

Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end
wall)


This might not help you, but I replaced the sill and the 'rim joist' from
the outside. (I know you said you have a brick facing). In my case I
removed about 2 feet of siding from the bottom, nailed on a 2"x6" ledger all
along the face of the house and jacked against the underside of the ledger.
My plate was so full of dry rot that I simply used a bench brush and brushed
it out.

Ivan Vegvary

[ransley]

On Feb 20, 2:37*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
On Feb 20, 3:29*pm, ransley wrote:





On Feb 20, 2:16*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:

Darn termites!

I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a two-
story house. *Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.

28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because the
floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. *Jack the house 10'
at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old sill out then
slide in a new PT sill.

The last 12' however will be a PITA.
The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting access
(maybe removable)
The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing) is
damaged
The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all are
on this 12'
Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor bolts
installed

Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a gable end
wall)

Where do you have to put in the bolts, in the foundation wall?- Hide quoted text -

I assume so, this isn't that much of a problem since there are no
bolts there now and the cinder block is not filled. *I could drill the
new sill and install the bolts then fill the holes in the block with
mortar put in the sill and shove the bolts down into the wet mortar.
Tighten them up when it dries. *Kind of silly but this is required
since a new building needs them so a replacement of that part (sill)
requires them.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

To fill the block with mortar it will go to ground level. It sounds
nuts. Talk to the head inspector there has to be an easier way that
will pass. I replaced 2, 25 ft 6x6 sills, You wont jack up the house
with screw jacks and if you have a concrete floor it will be hard to
not ruin it. My beam was so rotted jacking was not necessary but I
used jacks to hold up the house then I cut down a beam to fit in
place. Bracing to the foundation done right should pass. Get bids to
get ideas, maybe the inspector is off.

[J. Clarke]

ransley wrote:
On Feb 20, 2:37 pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
On Feb 20, 3:29 pm, ransley wrote:





On Feb 20, 2:16 pm, Limp Arbor wrote:

Darn termites!

I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a
two-
story house. Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.

28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because
the floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. Jack the
house 10' at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old
sill
out then slide in a new PT sill.

The last 12' however will be a PITA.
The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting
access (maybe removable)
The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing)
is damaged
The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all
are on this 12'
Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor
bolts installed

Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a
gable
end wall)

Where do you have to put in the bolts, in the foundation wall?-
Hide quoted text -

I assume so, this isn't that much of a problem since there are no
bolts there now and the cinder block is not filled. I could drill
the
new sill and install the bolts then fill the holes in the block
with
mortar put in the sill and shove the bolts down into the wet
mortar.
Tighten them up when it dries. Kind of silly but this is required
since a new building needs them so a replacement of that part
(sill)
requires them.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

To fill the block with mortar it will go to ground level. It sounds
nuts. Talk to the head inspector there has to be an easier way that
will pass. I replaced 2, 25 ft 6x6 sills, You wont jack up the house
with screw jacks and if you have a concrete floor it will be hard to
not ruin it. My beam was so rotted jacking was not necessary but I
used jacks to hold up the house then I cut down a beam to fit in
place. Bracing to the foundation done right should pass. Get bids to
get ideas, maybe the inspector is off.

Jacking without ruining floor, something to try is a couple of 2x10s
under the jack, with an Ipe 1x8 on top of it--the 2x10s distribute the
load and the Ipe 1x8 keeps the jack from punching a hole in them,
which it would otherwise do if it has any real load on it.

At least it worked for me.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

[[email protected]]

On Feb 20, 7:53 pm, "J. Clarke" wrote:
ransley wrote:
On Feb 20, 2:37 pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
On Feb 20, 3:29 pm, ransley wrote:

On Feb 20, 2:16 pm, Limp Arbor wrote:

Darn termites!

I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a
two-
story house. Replacing it from the outside is out of the question
because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.

28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward because
the floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. Jack the
house 10' at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old
sill
out then slide in a new PT sill.

The last 12' however will be a PITA.
The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting
access (maybe removable)
The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall framing)
is damaged
The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter all
are on this 12'
Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants anchor
bolts installed

Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a
gable
end wall)

Where do you have to put in the bolts, in the foundation wall?-
Hide quoted text -

I assume so, this isn't that much of a problem since there are no
bolts there now and the cinder block is not filled. I could drill
the
new sill and install the bolts then fill the holes in the block
with
mortar put in the sill and shove the bolts down into the wet
mortar.
Tighten them up when it dries. Kind of silly but this is required
since a new building needs them so a replacement of that part
(sill)
requires them.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

To fill the block with mortar it will go to ground level. It sounds
nuts. Talk to the head inspector there has to be an easier way that
will pass. I replaced 2, 25 ft 6x6 sills, You wont jack up the house
with screw jacks and if you have a concrete floor it will be hard to
not ruin it. My beam was so rotted jacking was not necessary but I
used jacks to hold up the house then I cut down a beam to fit in
place. Bracing to the foundation done right should pass. Get bids to
get ideas, maybe the inspector is off.

Jacking without ruining floor, something to try is a couple of 2x10s
under the jack, with an Ipe 1x8 on top of it--the 2x10s distribute the
load and the Ipe 1x8 keeps the jack from punching a hole in them,
which it would otherwise do if it has any real load on it.

At least it worked for me.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)


A jack is going to punch a hole through two 2x10's? I just removed
the primary steel support column on the bottom floor in the middle of
the house and it did no such thing.

[J. Clarke]

wrote:
On Feb 20, 7:53 pm, "J. Clarke" wrote:
ransley wrote:
On Feb 20, 2:37 pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
On Feb 20, 3:29 pm, ransley wrote:

On Feb 20, 2:16 pm, Limp Arbor wrote:

Darn termites!

I need to replace 40' of sill plate from the 7' basement of a
two-
story house. Replacing it from the outside is out of the
question
because of brick veneer and a solid-pour concrete porch.

28' of the replacement should be fairly straight forward
because
the floor joists are perpindicular to the sill plate. Jack the
house 10' at a time by the floor joists enough to get the old
sill
out then slide in a new PT sill.

The last 12' however will be a PITA.
The floor joists are parallel to the sill plate
There is a floor joist about 4" from the concrete wall limiting
access (maybe removable)
The end joist (above the sill and under the outside wall
framing)
is damaged
The sewer pipe, water line and meter, and gas line and meter
all
are on this 12'
Lots of HVAC ducts here as well to make things fun
And to make it even more fun the building inspector wants
anchor
bolts installed

Any ideas on how to jack/support this 12' span (No its not a
gable
end wall)

Where do you have to put in the bolts, in the foundation wall?-
Hide quoted text -

I assume so, this isn't that much of a problem since there are no
bolts there now and the cinder block is not filled. I could drill
the
new sill and install the bolts then fill the holes in the block
with
mortar put in the sill and shove the bolts down into the wet
mortar.
Tighten them up when it dries. Kind of silly but this is required
since a new building needs them so a replacement of that part
(sill)
requires them.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

To fill the block with mortar it will go to ground level. It
sounds
nuts. Talk to the head inspector there has to be an easier way
that
will pass. I replaced 2, 25 ft 6x6 sills, You wont jack up the
house
with screw jacks and if you have a concrete floor it will be hard
to
not ruin it. My beam was so rotted jacking was not necessary but I
used jacks to hold up the house then I cut down a beam to fit in
place. Bracing to the foundation done right should pass. Get bids
to
get ideas, maybe the inspector is off.

Jacking without ruining floor, something to try is a couple of
2x10s
under the jack, with an Ipe 1x8 on top of it--the 2x10s distribute
the load and the Ipe 1x8 keeps the jack from punching a hole in
them,
which it would otherwise do if it has any real load on it.

At least it worked for me.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)


A jack is going to punch a hole through two 2x10's? I just removed
the primary steel support column on the bottom floor in the middle
of
the house and it did no such thing.

Depends on the 2x10s and the jack I presume. Mine was making good
progress toward going through the first one until I put the piece of
ipe under it.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)