[pgcampbell]

I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my dining
room. My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably contolled
the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50 years ago
and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires inside.
They are not color coded. One wire connected to the top of lightwitch
number one ( controllng my dining room light). The second wire looped
around a copper screw at the bottom of lightswitch number one and then
continued on to lightswitch number 2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my dining
room? I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

[Big_Jake]

On Jan 17, 9:59 am, pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my dining
room. My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably contolled
the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50 years ago
and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires inside.
They are not color coded. One wire connected to the top of lightwitch
number one ( controllng my dining room light). The second wire looped
around a copper screw at the bottom of lightswitch number one and then
continued on to lightswitch number 2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my dining
room? I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

The second wire is hot. It once fed both switches, and should have
been cut shorter and disconnected when the 2nd switch was abandoned.
The wire connected to the top of the switch goes to the light.

JK

[DerbyDad03]

On Jan 17, 10:59*am, pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my dining
room. *My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. *One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably contolled
the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50 years ago
and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires inside.
They are not color coded. *One wire connected to the top of lightwitch
number one ( controllng my dining room light). *The second wire looped
around a copper screw at the bottom of lightswitch number one and then
continued on to lightswitch number 2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my dining
room? *I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? *Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

May I suggest that you do a little research and find some diagrams on
how a switched is wired. This will help you understand what you have.

A switch, when wired correctly, will open/close the hot lead to a
fixture. That means that one wire in your box (probably the bottom
wire) is always hot and the other is hot only when the switch is
closed. Technically, they are both considered hot wires.

Based on your description, it sounds like switch number 2 - assuming
there is only one wire attached to it - can be removed (after shutting
off the breaker of course).

Switch number 1 can be replaced with a dimmer by attaching the two
leads from the dimmer to the 2 existing wires with wire nuts.

Of course, this all assumes that the existing installation is correct
- it's possible that the existing installation is wrong and that the
neutral wire is being switched. That would take a bit of investigation
to determine, and should be corrected before installing the dimmer.

[Twayne]

pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my dining
room. My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably contolled
the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50 years ago
and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires inside.
They are not color coded. One wire connected to the top of lightwitch
number one ( controllng my dining room light). The second wire looped
around a copper screw at the bottom of lightswitch number one and then
continued on to lightswitch number 2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my dining
room? I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

Ouch. If you can't tell which is hot and which is neutral and from your
wording about green, you are definitely not qualified to learn/do this
task safely for you or for your house.

In a house that old there may not be ANY semblence of order to the color
or use of the wiring and even if the colors can be determined, they
aren't necessarily connected right back at the fuse/breaker box.

At LEAST get a basic electricity understanding and a cheap
voltmeter/ohmmeter before tackling this job and definitely have someone
knowledgable check out your plans.

[DerbyDad03]

On Jan 17, 1:24 pm, "Twayne" wrote:
pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my dining
room. My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably contolled
the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50 years ago
and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires inside.
They are not color coded. One wire connected to the top of lightwitch
number one ( controllng my dining room light). The second wire looped
around a copper screw at the bottom of lightswitch number one and then
continued on to lightswitch number 2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my dining
room? I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

Ouch. If you can't tell which is hot and which is neutral and from your
wording about green, you are definitely not qualified to learn/do this
task safely for you or for your house.

In a house that old there may not be ANY semblence of order to the color
or use of the wiring and even if the colors can be determined, they
aren't necessarily connected right back at the fuse/breaker box.

At LEAST get a basic electricity understanding and a cheap
voltmeter/ohmmeter before tackling this job and definitely have someone
knowledgable check out your plans.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

you are definitely not qualified to learn

Wow! You were able to make this assessment of the OP's ability to
learn from just one post.

You have an amazing talent that you should market to corporate head
hunters, educational institutions, major league sport teams and
countless other organizations.
..

[Kbalz]

On Jan 17, 1:35*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jan 17, 1:24 pm, "Twayne" wrote:





pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my dining
room. *My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. *One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably contolled
the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50 years ago
and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires inside.
They are not color coded. *One wire connected to the top of lightwitch
number one ( controllng my dining room light). *The second wire looped
around a copper screw at the bottom of lightswitch number one and then
continued on to lightswitch number 2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my dining
room? *I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? *Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

Ouch. *If you can't tell which is hot and which is neutral and from your
wording about green, you are definitely not qualified to learn/do this
task safely for you or for your house.

In a house that old there may not be ANY semblence of order to the color
or use of the wiring and even if the colors can be determined, they
aren't necessarily connected right back at the fuse/breaker box.

At LEAST get a basic electricity understanding and a cheap
voltmeter/ohmmeter before tackling this job and definitely have someone
knowledgable check out your plans.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

you are definitely not qualified to learn

Wow! *You were able to make this assessment of the OP's ability to
learn from just one post.

You have an amazing talent that you should market to corporate head
hunters, educational institutions, major league sport teams and
countless other organizations.
.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Real men leave the breaker on

[DerbyDad03]

On Jan 17, 1:59*pm, Kbalz wrote:
On Jan 17, 1:35*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On Jan 17, 1:24 pm, "Twayne" wrote:

pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my dining
room. *My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. *One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably contolled
the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50 years ago
and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires inside..
They are not color coded. *One wire connected to the top of lightwitch
number one ( controllng my dining room light). *The second wire looped
around a copper screw at the bottom of lightswitch number one and then
continued on to lightswitch number 2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my dining
room? *I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? *Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

Ouch. *If you can't tell which is hot and which is neutral and from your
wording about green, you are definitely not qualified to learn/do this
task safely for you or for your house.

In a house that old there may not be ANY semblence of order to the color
or use of the wiring and even if the colors can be determined, they
aren't necessarily connected right back at the fuse/breaker box.

At LEAST get a basic electricity understanding and a cheap
voltmeter/ohmmeter before tackling this job and definitely have someone
knowledgable check out your plans.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

you are definitely not qualified to learn

Wow! *You were able to make this assessment of the OP's ability to
learn from just one post.

You have an amazing talent that you should market to corporate head
hunters, educational institutions, major league sport teams and
countless other organizations.
.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Real men leave the breaker on- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Real men leave the breaker on

I was a real man once...and have the scars to show it.

Ran 400 VDC in one hand and out the other, all the while holding a 30
lb power supply at arm's length while I twitched around shouting "Turn
it off! Turn it off!"

A classmate (USCG training class) pulled the plug and saved my life.
Me and my bloody hands came back the next day but 2 other guys quit.

[jJim McLaughlin]

pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my dining
room. My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably contolled
the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50 years ago
and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires inside.
They are not color coded. One wire connected to the top of lightwitch
number one ( controllng my dining room light). The second wire looped
around a copper screw at the bottom of lightswitch number one and then
continued on to lightswitch number 2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my dining
room? I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

With all due respect, get an electrician.

Its obvious by your questions that you have no experince with this type
of work, and
and you should not be attemping to do it based upon typed direcitons
from folksomn this group who hae not actually seen the wiring and tested
it with a meter.

Yes, an electrician can be expensive. An electrician can also be a lot
cheaper than
a fire or an emergency room visit if you make a serious error.

[DerbyDad03]

On Jan 17, 2:58*pm, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:
pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my dining
room. *My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. *One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably contolled
the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50 years ago
and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires inside.
They are not color coded. *One wire connected to the top of lightwitch
number one ( controllng my dining room light). *The second wire looped
around a copper screw at the bottom of lightswitch number one and then
continued on to lightswitch number 2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my dining
room? *I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? *Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

* With all due respect, get an electrician.

Its obvious by your questions that you have no experince with this type
of work, and
and you should *not be attemping to do it based upon typed direcitons
from folksomn this group who hae not actually seen the wiring and tested
it with a meter.

Yes, an electrician can be expensive. *An electrician can also be a lot
cheaper than
a fire or an emergency room visit if you make a serious error.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'd like to poll all the members of this group who currently know how
to wire a switch. Please press 1, 2 or 3 based on the group you fit
into. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

1 - I was born with the requisite skills to open any electrical box
and immediately understand how it is wired. I never had to open a
book, ask a question, take a course or be shown how to work on a
circuit. The first time I took a cover off a switch box I simply used
the skills inherent in my biological makeup and dove right into the
repair.

2 - The first time I wanted to replace a switch I did some research. I
asked some questions, took a book out of the library and/or asked
someone with the required knowledge to teach me how to do. After I was
confident that I understood the situation and the steps required, I
replaced the switch myself.

3 - Whenever I run into a situation where I don't have the knowledge
or skills, I put my tail between my legs and call a professional. I
don't want to learn anything new and will always be afraid to venture
into areas beyond my current scope of knowledge.

[terry]

On Jan 17, 10:58*pm, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:
pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my dining
room. *My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. *One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably contolled
the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50 years ago
and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires inside.
They are not color coded. *One wire connected to the top of lightwitch
number one ( controllng my dining room light). *The second wire looped
around a copper screw at the bottom of lightswitch number one and then
continued on to lightswitch number 2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my dining
room? *I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? *Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

* With all due respect, get an electrician.

Its obvious by your questions that you have no experince with this type
of work, and
and you should *not be attemping to do it based upon typed direcitons
from folksomn this group who hae not actually seen the wiring and tested
it with a meter.

Yes, an electrician can be expensive. *An electrician can also be a lot
cheaper than
a fire or an emergency room visit if you make a serious error.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Amen. Several people killed recently in yet another 'electrical fire'!

While I agree with some of the directions/suggestions in these
answers, must agree that when anybody starts asking questions in the
manner of this original post, using terms such as "I believe the top
wire is hot ..." and whether one of the wires is 'ground', it seems
very apparent they have no idea how or why a light switch works. That
warning that those switching wires may even be in the neutral lead
(who can tell from the info. given) is also pertinent in any old,
possibly often modified and possibly messsed around with 1925 wiring.
Please be careful; and is it really necessary to try and install a
light dimmer into such an old system?????

[terry]

On Jan 18, 12:40*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jan 17, 2:58*pm, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:





pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my dining
room. *My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. *One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably contolled
the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50 years ago
and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires inside.
They are not color coded. *One wire connected to the top of lightwitch
number one ( controllng my dining room light). *The second wire looped
around a copper screw at the bottom of lightswitch number one and then
continued on to lightswitch number 2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my dining
room? *I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? *Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

* With all due respect, get an electrician.

Its obvious by your questions that you have no experince with this type
of work, and
and you should *not be attemping to do it based upon typed direcitons
from folksomn this group who hae not actually seen the wiring and tested
it with a meter.

Yes, an electrician can be expensive. *An electrician can also be a lot
cheaper than
a fire or an emergency room visit if you make a serious error.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'd like to poll all the members of this group who currently know how
to wire a switch. Please press 1, 2 or 3 based on the group you fit
into. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

1 - I was born with the requisite skills to open any electrical box
and immediately understand how it is wired. I never had to open a
book, ask a question, take a course or be shown how to work on a
circuit. The first time I took a cover off a switch box I simply used
the skills inherent in my biological makeup and dove right into the
repair.

2 - The first time I wanted to replace a switch I did some research. I
asked some questions, took a book out of the library and/or asked
someone with the required knowledge to teach me how to do. After I was
confident that I understood the situation and the steps required, I
replaced the switch myself.

3 - Whenever I run into a situation where I don't have the knowledge
or skills, I put my tail between my legs and call a professional. I
don't want to learn anything new and will always be afraid to venture
into areas beyond my current scope of knowledge.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Slanted questions. For example ....

I have one acquaintance, aged 15 who passed a technical exam with 87%
first time, who is more than competent to a) Understand and b) Work on
it.

I have another who, no matter how many times I explain a basic
(domestic AC) electrial circuit, he doesn't 'get it'! Fortunately he
comes and gets me to oversee electrical repairs to his house and also
to repair the 12 volt systems, with multiple batteries, of his
transport truck!

Obviously (2) is the better answer. Good point made though.

[Mark Lloyd]

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 10:59:10 -0800 (PST), Kbalz
wrote:

[snip]


Real men leave the breaker on

And if you're careful what else you touch, touching the hot wire will
have no noticeable effect.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"God was invented by man for a reason, that
reason is no longer applicable."

[SAm E]

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 11:24:59 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

[snip]


Real men leave the breaker on

I was a real man once...and have the scars to show it.

Ran 400 VDC in one hand and out the other, all the while holding a 30
lb power supply at arm's length while I twitched around shouting "Turn
it off! Turn it off!"

A classmate (USCG training class) pulled the plug and saved my life.
Me and my bloody hands came back the next day but 2 other guys quit.


Try doing electrical work with one hand in your pocket.

[DerbyDad03]

On Jan 17, 7:39*pm, Sam E wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 11:24:59 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03

wrote:

[snip]



Real men leave the breaker on

I was a real man once...and have the scars to show it.

Ran 400 VDC in one hand and out the other, all the while holding a 30
lb power supply at arm's length while I twitched around shouting "Turn
it off! Turn it off!"

A classmate (USCG training class) pulled the plug and saved my life.
Me and my bloody hands came back the next day but 2 other guys quit.

Try doing electrical work with one hand in your pocket.

When I do, my lips get shocked.

[Twayne]

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jan 17, 1:59 pm, Kbalz wrote:
On Jan 17, 1:35 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On Jan 17, 1:24 pm, "Twayne" wrote:

pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my
dining room. My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second
lightswitch currently does not contol anything. At one time it
probably contolled the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was
remodeled 50 years ago and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires
inside. They are not color coded. One wire connected to the top
of lightwitch number one ( controllng my dining room light). The
second wire looped around a copper screw at the bottom of
lightswitch number one and then continued on to lightswitch
number 2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my
dining room? I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

Ouch. If you can't tell which is hot and which is neutral and from
your wording about green, you are definitely not qualified to
learn/do this task safely for you or for your house.

In a house that old there may not be ANY semblence of order to the
color or use of the wiring and even if the colors can be
determined, they aren't necessarily connected right back at the
fuse/breaker box.

At LEAST get a basic electricity understanding and a cheap
voltmeter/ohmmeter before tackling this job and definitely have
someone knowledgable check out your plans.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

you are definitely not qualified to learn

Wow! You were able to make this assessment of the OP's ability to
learn from just one post.

You have an amazing talent that you should market to corporate head
hunters, educational institutions, major league sport teams and
countless other organizations.
.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Real men leave the breaker on- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Real men leave the breaker on

I was a real man once...and have the scars to show it.

Ran 400 VDC in one hand and out the other, all the while holding a 30
lb power supply at arm's length while I twitched around shouting "Turn
it off! Turn it off!"

A classmate (USCG training class) pulled the plug and saved my life.
Me and my bloody hands came back the next day but 2 other guys quit.

lol, that's a good sea story! Lucky thing it was DC, eh? Wasn't that
the worst taste you ever had in your mouth? Bet you never did that
again either, did you?

Cheers,

Twayne

[Twayne]

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jan 17, 1:24 pm, "Twayne" wrote:
pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my
dining room. My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably
contolled the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50
years ago and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires
inside. They are not color coded. One wire connected to the top of
lightwitch number one ( controllng my dining room light). The
second wire looped around a copper screw at the bottom of
lightswitch number one and then continued on to lightswitch number
2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my
dining room? I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

....

you are definitely not qualified to learn

Wow! You were able to make this assessment of the OP's ability to
learn from just one post.

You have an amazing talent that you should market to corporate head
hunters, educational institutions, major league sport teams and
countless other organizations.
.

Yup. You see, I have this little knack for ... wait for it ... being
able to READ! And I suspect from your tortured response that you are
another one but where the OP was likely putting himself in danger, you
are also a danger to those around you. You're definitely not the right
tool for the job; you're just a tool, period. How's that for a talent?
Unlike you, I explained why I said what I said, and offered further
assistance in what in my opinion would be his best course of action to
approach that job. The OP may accept or reject my post as he wishes.
No hard feelings, I simply spoke what I believed.
You on the other hand seem to have contributed nothing but an attempt
to **** on a table top. Like the tool you seem to be.

Twayne

[Twayne]

Mark Lloyd wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 10:59:10 -0800 (PST), Kbalz
wrote:

[snip]


Real men leave the breaker on

And if you're careful what else you touch, touching the hot wire will
have no noticeable effect.

Lazy, I mean, experienced, electricians do it all the time. I never had
the guts to though.

[Twayne]

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jan 17, 2:58 pm, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:
pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my
dining room. My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably
contolled the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50
years ago and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires
inside. They are not color coded. One wire connected to the top of
lightwitch number one ( controllng my dining room light). The
second wire looped around a copper screw at the bottom of
lightswitch number one and then continued on to lightswitch number
2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my
dining room? I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

With all due respect, get an electrician.

Its obvious by your questions that you have no experince with this
type
of work, and
and you should not be attemping to do it based upon typed direcitons
from folksomn this group who hae not actually seen the wiring and
tested
it with a meter.

Yes, an electrician can be expensive. An electrician can also be a
lot
cheaper than
a fire or an emergency room visit if you make a serious error.- Hide
quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'd like to poll all the members of this group who currently know how
to wire a switch. Please press 1, 2 or 3 based on the group you fit
into. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

1 - I was born with the requisite skills to open any electrical box
and immediately understand how it is wired. I never had to open a
book, ask a question, take a course or be shown how to work on a
circuit. The first time I took a cover off a switch box I simply used
the skills inherent in my biological makeup and dove right into the
repair.

2 - The first time I wanted to replace a switch I did some research. I
asked some questions, took a book out of the library and/or asked
someone with the required knowledge to teach me how to do. After I was
confident that I understood the situation and the steps required, I
replaced the switch myself.

3 - Whenever I run into a situation where I don't have the knowledge
or skills, I put my tail between my legs and call a professional. I
don't want to learn anything new and will always be afraid to venture
into areas beyond my current scope of knowledge.

With the combination of wrong, misinformed and un-understandable posts
I've seen on this group over that last three months or so, there should
be a #4.

4 - I ask on this group, throw out all the responses from this poster
and the other louts here, take the most reliable information, and then
verify it independently elsewhere before I go any further.

You're quite a troll; I could amost predict this response from you.

Twayne

[Twayne]

terry wrote:
On Jan 17, 10:58 pm, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:
pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my
dining room. My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably
contolled the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50
years ago and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires
inside. They are not color coded. One wire connected to the top of
lightwitch number one ( controllng my dining room light). The
second wire looped around a copper screw at the bottom of
lightswitch number one and then continued on to lightswitch number
2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my
dining room? I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

With all due respect, get an electrician.

Its obvious by your questions that you have no experince with this
type
of work, and
and you should not be attemping to do it based upon typed direcitons
from folksomn this group who hae not actually seen the wiring and
tested
it with a meter.

Yes, an electrician can be expensive. An electrician can also be a
lot
cheaper than
a fire or an emergency room visit if you make a serious error.- Hide
quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Amen. Several people killed recently in yet another 'electrical fire'!

While I agree with some of the directions/suggestions in these
answers, must agree that when anybody starts asking questions in the
manner of this original post, using terms such as "I believe the top
wire is hot ..." and whether one of the wires is 'ground', it seems
very apparent they have no idea how or why a light switch works. That
warning that those switching wires may even be in the neutral lead
(who can tell from the info. given) is also pertinent in any old,
possibly often modified and possibly messsed around with 1925 wiring.
Please be careful; and is it really necessary to try and install a
light dimmer into such an old system?????

Well, in all fairness, yeah, I could see installing a dimmer switch,
assuming the wiring and insulation were in decent shape at the point
where the work needed to be done. It can be a desirable thing
regardless of age/upkeep IFF safety is still afforded in that location.
It worries me more that someone would get hold of the old cloth
insulated wiring which these days seldom has any color left, and try to
outguess the ages as to what fits where under the exact circumstances
you give above. Even with the best of instructions such a situation
isn't for the faint of heart, as you rightfully point out.
Lots of problems come to mind in those circumstances and even the more
experienced guys need to be careful what they're doing or a simple job
can turn into a pretty expensive outing in the end.
So I trust the wish for a dimmer being OK. But I don't trust the
circumstance to be safe for the apparent experience level of the OP. I
suspect the poor guy's been driven off by the idiots and dummies posting
unhelpful crap here to put it succinctlyg.

Regrads,

Twayne

[hobbes]

On Jan 17, 10:59*am, pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my dining
room. *My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. *One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably contolled
the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50 years ago
and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires inside.
They are not color coded. *One wire connected to the top of lightwitch
number one ( controllng my dining room light). *The second wire looped
around a copper screw at the bottom of lightswitch number one and then
continued on to lightswitch number 2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my dining
room? *I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? *Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

Hi Mr. Campbell,

I have been following the post and I think the consensus is it is
difficult to tell which way around the wiring is just from text
descriptions here.

If you feel confident doing it yourself here is what might work.

1) You need to find which wire is the hot wire and which is the
neutral. For this you need to buy some test equipment. A Volt Probe is
what you need. Like this:

http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fl...(FlukeProducts)

Fluke 1AC-II / 1LAC-II VoltAlert

You can also get them from Home Depot, but maybe not this brand. What
this gadget does is it allows you to tell which wire is the Hot one,
the one with power, without having to make an electical connection. It
can test through insulation. Cost is about $US 14-$US 21.

2) Switch off the light.

3) Disconnect the power at you main breaker / or remove the main fuse
to the circuit.

4) Open up the wall switch by removing the face plate.

5) Switch the power back on at the man breaker / put back the main
fuse.

6) Note the circuit is now live so be careful. Place the probe near
each wire in turn. You do NOT have to make
contact with the wire mretal connectors, just place it near the wire.
The HOT / Power wire will make the VoltProbe beep.
Remember that wire. The other wire is then your Neutral wire.

7) Power down the circuit at the mains

8) Remove the light bulb that the circuit switches.

9) Power back up the circuit.

10) Check to see with your probe if your live wire is still live. If
it is, then you are in good shape (case A -- Switch switches the live
wire). If there is no power to that wire, this means the light bulb is
connected to the hot wire directly, and the switch is switiching the
neutral (case B, Switch is swithing the neutral).

11) If the switch is switching the neutral (case B) I would call in a
professional and rewire the circuit. Switiching a neutral is bad for a
number of safety reasons. (Stop here do not go onto step 12)

12) Power down the circuit.

13) Replace the switch with a dimmer of your choice. You need a single-
pole dimmer (as opposed to a 3-pole dimmer). The 3-pole ones will work
too but a more expensive, and you do nto need it in this application.

14) Put back the light bulbs

15) Put back the face plate.

16) Power up the circuit. You are done.

Hope this is useful.

Warmest regards, Mike.

[Marilyn & Bob]

"hobbes" wrote in message
...
On Jan 17, 10:59 am, pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my dining
room. My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably contolled
the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50 years ago
and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires inside.
They are not color coded. One wire connected to the top of lightwitch
number one ( controllng my dining room light). The second wire looped
around a copper screw at the bottom of lightswitch number one and then
continued on to lightswitch number 2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my dining
room? I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

Hi Mr. Campbell,

I have been following the post and I think the consensus is it is
difficult to tell which way around the wiring is just from text
descriptions here.

If you feel confident doing it yourself here is what might work.

1) You need to find which wire is the hot wire and which is the
neutral. For this you need to buy some test equipment. A Volt Probe is
what you need. Like this:

http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fl...(FlukeProducts)

Just to avoid confusion to the OP (and to alert some of the responders),
please note that there is propably NO NEUTRAL wire in the switch box. Given
the OP's description and the fact that box box was wired in 1925, it is
highly likely that only hot wires (line and load) exist in the box.
--
Peace,
BobJ


snip

[Marilyn & Bob]

"Marilyn & Bob" wrote in message
news:E03kj.2$hk4.0@trnddc03...

"hobbes" wrote in message
...
On Jan 17, 10:59 am, pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my dining
room. My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably contolled
the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50 years ago
and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires inside.
They are not color coded. One wire connected to the top of lightwitch
number one ( controllng my dining room light). The second wire looped
around a copper screw at the bottom of lightswitch number one and then
continued on to lightswitch number 2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my dining
room? I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

Hi Mr. Campbell,

I have been following the post and I think the consensus is it is
difficult to tell which way around the wiring is just from text
descriptions here.

If you feel confident doing it yourself here is what might work.

1) You need to find which wire is the hot wire and which is the
neutral. For this you need to buy some test equipment. A Volt Probe is
what you need. Like this:

http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fl...(FlukeProducts)




snip


Sorry for the way the last post was written. I was responding to hobbes
post. His snipped post and mine showed up without the marks. This is
the post as I wanted it to read:

Just to avoid confusion to the OP (and to alert some of the responders),
please note that there is probably NO NEUTRAL wire in the switch box. Given
the OP's description and the fact that the box was wired in 1925, it is
highly likely that only hot wires (line and load) exist in the box.
--
Peace,
BobJ

[DerbyDad03]

On Jan 17, 9:27*pm, "Twayne" wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jan 17, 1:24 pm, "Twayne" wrote:
pgcampbell wrote:
I want to install a dimmer switch to control the lighting in my
dining room. *My house was built in 1925.
There are two light switches connected to one workbox. *One light
switch controlls the light in my dining room. The second lightswitch
currently does not contol anything. At one time it probably
contolled the light in the kitchen but the kitchen was remodeled 50
years ago and the lights in there are gone.

When I removed the faceplate to the workbox I found two wires
inside. They are not color coded. *One wire connected to the top of
lightwitch number one ( controllng my dining room light). *The
second wire looped around a copper screw at the bottom of
lightswitch number one and then continued on to lightswitch number
2 where it terminated.

How would I then install a dimmer to control the lighting in my
dining room? *I believe the top wire is hot.
The bottom wire to lightswitch number two...is that a grounding
wire...treated as a green wire? *Or is that
the second hot wire...treated as a black wire?

...

you are definitely not qualified to learn

Wow! *You were able to make this assessment of the OP's ability to
learn from just one post.

You have an amazing talent that you should market to corporate head
hunters, educational institutions, major league sport teams and
countless other organizations.
.

Yup. *You see, I have this little knack for ... wait for it ... being
able to READ! *And I suspect from your tortured response that you are
another one but where the OP was likely putting himself in danger, you
are also a danger to those around you. *You're definitely not the right
tool for the job; you're just a tool, period. *How's that for a talent?
* *Unlike you, I explained why I said what I said, and offered further
assistance in what in my opinion would be his best course of action to
approach that job. *The OP may accept or reject my post as he wishes.
No hard feelings, I simply spoke what I believed.
* You on the other hand seem to have contributed nothing but an attempt
to **** on a table top. *Like the tool you seem to be.

Twayne- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Gosh...Don't you hate it when you need to make the choice between
responding to such inane babble and just leaving it alone since
responding to it justifies it? I guess I'll give it one quick shot,
then sit back and wait for more babble (or, in a perfect world, a
humble apology) to appear in response.

Let's recap what you posted:

"...you are definitely not qualified to learn/do this task..."

Nothing...absolutely nothing...in the OP's wording could possibly give
anyone reading it a sense of the OP's ability to *learn*. I'll agree
that at this point in time he may not be able to *do* it (safely,
correctly, whatever) but based on one question, no one, not even one
as astute as you, could possibly assess his ability to *learn*.

It also appears that although you claimed to "have this little knack
for ... wait for it ... being able to READ", you either didn't read,
or chose to ignore, my direct response to the OP where I:

1 - Offered a course of action, just like you did.
2 - Provided a brief explanation of how a switch should be wired.
3 - Ended with the caveat that in an older house (or any house for
that matter) proper wiring procedures may not have been followed along
with the suggestion that the OP determines how the current switch is
wired before replacing it with the dimmer.

And finally, I just gotta throw this in. I find it curious that when
I related my experience about getting hung up on a 400VDC power
supply, your response was all buddy-buddy, using things like "lol",
"great sea story" and even ending with a hearty "Cheers". However, in
other posts you've called me a troll and a tool. I'm having trouble
determining your true feelings for me. Please stop playing with my
emotions.

[jJim McLaughlin]

DerbyDad03 wrote:

MUCH BILGE WATER DRAINED

The problem that many of us have seen in your posts over many months is
hat you are an anagonistic, aggressive and arrogant asshole.

No offense, mind you.

And I for one won't allow your crap to appear anyore on my machine.

Bye.

PLONK