[[email protected]]

OK I will confuse this topic with facts.
I hooked up my clamp to a Samsung 50" TV with a sound bar. The audio
amp is disabled and it just feeds optical out to the bar that is
separately powered. There is a USB connected 3.5" drive that powers up
with the TV.
With the TV off it is bouncing between 10ma and 20 ma which I assume
is the CPU polling the network occasionally.
Turned on, it really does not make a whole lot of difference whether
you are watching antenna, local disk drive on the USB or streaming off
the internet. it is mid 600s ma
Off 10-20ma 12-24w
On watching antenna or local drive 610-630ma 73-76w
On watching a stream 650-670ma 78-80w
It bounces around a bit both ways so I assume caching or buffering is
the issue.
All in all these things are pretty efficient.
As a sanity check my 20" Sylvania CRT TV uses about the same with
power off (standby) and 28 watts on for about 1/6th the picture area.

[[email protected]]

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 14:58:36 -0500, wrote:

OK I will confuse this topic with facts.
I hooked up my clamp to a Samsung 50" TV with a sound bar. The audio
amp is disabled and it just feeds optical out to the bar that is
separately powered. There is a USB connected 3.5" drive that powers up
with the TV.
With the TV off it is bouncing between 10ma and 20 ma which I assume
is the CPU polling the network occasionally.
Turned on, it really does not make a whole lot of difference whether
you are watching antenna, local disk drive on the USB or streaming off
the internet. it is mid 600s ma
Off 10-20ma 12-24w

Make that 1.2-2.4w

On watching antenna or local drive 610-630ma 73-76w
On watching a stream 650-670ma 78-80w
It bounces around a bit both ways so I assume caching or buffering is
the issue.
All in all these things are pretty efficient.
As a sanity check my 20" Sylvania CRT TV uses about the same with
power off (standby) and 28 watts on for about 1/6th the picture area.

[Frank[_24_]]

On 12/26/2016 2:58 PM, wrote:
OK I will confuse this topic with facts.
I hooked up my clamp to a Samsung 50" TV with a sound bar. The audio
amp is disabled and it just feeds optical out to the bar that is
separately powered. There is a USB connected 3.5" drive that powers up
with the TV.
With the TV off it is bouncing between 10ma and 20 ma which I assume
is the CPU polling the network occasionally.
Turned on, it really does not make a whole lot of difference whether
you are watching antenna, local disk drive on the USB or streaming off
the internet. it is mid 600s ma
Off 10-20ma 12-24w
On watching antenna or local drive 610-630ma 73-76w
On watching a stream 650-670ma 78-80w
It bounces around a bit both ways so I assume caching or buffering is
the issue.
All in all these things are pretty efficient.
As a sanity check my 20" Sylvania CRT TV uses about the same with
power off (standby) and 28 watts on for about 1/6th the picture area.


It is confusing. I have a smart Samsung TV but think when it is off, it
is off but DTA cable box stays on. New Comcast X1 system on an old dumb
Samsung TV where box also stays on takes no time at all to connect to
the internet where the smart TV takes much longer when first turned on.
At any rate, these vampire devices apparently take a few percent of all
electrical usage.

[[email protected]]

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 16:09:01 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 12/26/2016 2:58 PM, wrote:
OK I will confuse this topic with facts.
I hooked up my clamp to a Samsung 50" TV with a sound bar. The audio
amp is disabled and it just feeds optical out to the bar that is
separately powered. There is a USB connected 3.5" drive that powers up
with the TV.
With the TV off it is bouncing between 10ma and 20 ma which I assume
is the CPU polling the network occasionally.
Turned on, it really does not make a whole lot of difference whether
you are watching antenna, local disk drive on the USB or streaming off
the internet. it is mid 600s ma
Off 10-20ma 12-24w
On watching antenna or local drive 610-630ma 73-76w
On watching a stream 650-670ma 78-80w
It bounces around a bit both ways so I assume caching or buffering is
the issue.
All in all these things are pretty efficient.
As a sanity check my 20" Sylvania CRT TV uses about the same with
power off (standby) and 28 watts on for about 1/6th the picture area.


It is confusing. I have a smart Samsung TV but think when it is off, it
is off but DTA cable box stays on. New Comcast X1 system on an old dumb
Samsung TV where box also stays on takes no time at all to connect to
the internet where the smart TV takes much longer when first turned on.
At any rate, these vampire devices apparently take a few percent of all
electrical usage.

Your smart TV is still on but most of the functions are off. It pings
the internet occasionally looking for updates, the timer is still
running and it is monitoring the IR input, looking for a remote
control power on.
It still manages to do this at about the same power consumption to an
old "dumb" TV.
I would need to use my other clamp to see how much it really is
because the one I used is +/- 10ma and both go between .01 and .02
I have a probe that is +/- .001ma running off a 4 1/2 digit Fluke.

[Frank[_24_]]

On 12/26/2016 5:08 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 16:09:01 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 12/26/2016 2:58 PM, wrote:
OK I will confuse this topic with facts.
I hooked up my clamp to a Samsung 50" TV with a sound bar. The audio
amp is disabled and it just feeds optical out to the bar that is
separately powered. There is a USB connected 3.5" drive that powers up
with the TV.
With the TV off it is bouncing between 10ma and 20 ma which I assume
is the CPU polling the network occasionally.
Turned on, it really does not make a whole lot of difference whether
you are watching antenna, local disk drive on the USB or streaming off
the internet. it is mid 600s ma
Off 10-20ma 12-24w
On watching antenna or local drive 610-630ma 73-76w
On watching a stream 650-670ma 78-80w
It bounces around a bit both ways so I assume caching or buffering is
the issue.
All in all these things are pretty efficient.
As a sanity check my 20" Sylvania CRT TV uses about the same with
power off (standby) and 28 watts on for about 1/6th the picture area.


It is confusing. I have a smart Samsung TV but think when it is off, it
is off but DTA cable box stays on. New Comcast X1 system on an old dumb
Samsung TV where box also stays on takes no time at all to connect to
the internet where the smart TV takes much longer when first turned on.
At any rate, these vampire devices apparently take a few percent of all
electrical usage.

Your smart TV is still on but most of the functions are off. It pings
the internet occasionally looking for updates, the timer is still
running and it is monitoring the IR input, looking for a remote
control power on.
It still manages to do this at about the same power consumption to an
old "dumb" TV.
I would need to use my other clamp to see how much it really is
because the one I used is +/- 10ma and both go between .01 and .02
I have a probe that is +/- .001ma running off a 4 1/2 digit Fluke.

I based my comments on how much longer it takes to access Netflix on the
smart TV versus Netflix on the new X1 box. It's like the X1 unit
contains a Roku type device to contact the internet and since it is
always on I can even start the X1 TV by voice command even before
turning on the TV. I can't do this with the smart TV on the old DTA box
which is always on.

Don't like all this vampire stuff but some devices can take a long time
to reboot.

[trader_4]

On Monday, December 26, 2016 at 2:58:46 PM UTC-5, wrote:
OK I will confuse this topic with facts.
I hooked up my clamp to a Samsung 50" TV with a sound bar. The audio
amp is disabled and it just feeds optical out to the bar that is
separately powered. There is a USB connected 3.5" drive that powers up
with the TV.
With the TV off it is bouncing between 10ma and 20 ma which I assume
is the CPU polling the network occasionally.
Turned on, it really does not make a whole lot of difference whether
you are watching antenna, local disk drive on the USB or streaming off
the internet. it is mid 600s ma
Off 10-20ma 12-24w
On watching antenna or local drive 610-630ma 73-76w
On watching a stream 650-670ma 78-80w
It bounces around a bit both ways so I assume caching or buffering is
the issue.
All in all these things are pretty efficient.
As a sanity check my 20" Sylvania CRT TV uses about the same with
power off (standby) and 28 watts on for about 1/6th the picture area.

So, I think you're saying that I was right? That a smart TV uses about
the same power as a dumb, similar TV?

[[email protected]]

On Tue, 27 Dec 2016 06:40:07 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, December 26, 2016 at 2:58:46 PM UTC-5, wrote:
OK I will confuse this topic with facts.
I hooked up my clamp to a Samsung 50" TV with a sound bar. The audio
amp is disabled and it just feeds optical out to the bar that is
separately powered. There is a USB connected 3.5" drive that powers up
with the TV.
With the TV off it is bouncing between 10ma and 20 ma which I assume
is the CPU polling the network occasionally.
Turned on, it really does not make a whole lot of difference whether
you are watching antenna, local disk drive on the USB or streaming off
the internet. it is mid 600s ma
Off 10-20ma 12-24w
On watching antenna or local drive 610-630ma 73-76w
On watching a stream 650-670ma 78-80w
It bounces around a bit both ways so I assume caching or buffering is
the issue.
All in all these things are pretty efficient.
As a sanity check my 20" Sylvania CRT TV uses about the same with
power off (standby) and 28 watts on for about 1/6th the picture area.

So, I think you're saying that I was right? That a smart TV uses about
the same power as a dumb, similar TV?

I compared it to a 20" CRT
I just compared it to a dumb LED TV.
The one I have is bigger than the 50 and a different brand so it might
not be a fair comparison.
A Seiki 55" dumb LED draws 0-10 ma in standby (about half of the CRT
and the Smart TV) and 1.05a on.
Standby is less, on is quite a bit more.
I am also surprised at how much more it draws on for such a little
increase in size. I guess Samsung knows more about efficiency or maybe
the brightness is just set higher in the 55. I am running the audio
amp on that one and that could be some of the difference too.
It is clear that if we really want better numbers on the low end I
need to use a better clamp. but this is an idea of what we are talking
about.

[[email protected]]

Changing the picture mode from factory
(Dynamic or Vivid) to Cinema or Movie
will drop your flat's energy consumption
even more, and give you more accurate
picture and last longer.

[[email protected]]

On Tue, 27 Dec 2016 10:42:55 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

Changing the picture mode from factory
(Dynamic or Vivid) to Cinema or Movie
will drop your flat's energy consumption
even more, and give you more accurate
picture and last longer.

That may be why the bedroom (smart) TV uses less current. It is set to
movie or something (the lower intensity setting)
The big one in the kids room is still at factory default I suppose.

[Diesel]

trader_4
Tue, 27
Dec 2016 14:40:07 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:

On Monday, December 26, 2016 at 2:58:46 PM UTC-5,
wrote:
OK I will confuse this topic with facts.
I hooked up my clamp to a Samsung 50" TV with a sound bar. The
audio amp is disabled and it just feeds optical out to the bar
that is separately powered. There is a USB connected 3.5" drive
that powers up with the TV.
With the TV off it is bouncing between 10ma and 20 ma which I
assume is the CPU polling the network occasionally.
Turned on, it really does not make a whole lot of difference
whether you are watching antenna, local disk drive on the USB or
streaming off the internet. it is mid 600s ma
Off 10-20ma 12-24w
On watching antenna or local drive 610-630ma 73-76w
On watching a stream 650-670ma 78-80w
It bounces around a bit both ways so I assume caching or
buffering is the issue.
All in all these things are pretty efficient.
As a sanity check my 20" Sylvania CRT TV uses about the same with
power off (standby) and 28 watts on for about 1/6th the picture
area.

So, I think you're saying that I was right? That a smart TV uses
about the same power as a dumb, similar TV?

If that's what you were writing, then I agree with you. I wasn't
disputing that. I thought you were comparing a smart tv with that of
an actual desktop computer in terms of power consumption.


--
Sarcasm, because beating the living **** out of deserving people is
illegal.