Trying to replace a toilet. I bought the new Champion by American
Standard, we had 2 at the last house. When trying to mount it the left
bolt through the flange was at an angle, it's back a little too far.
No I can't adjust it, that's as far as it will slide due to the way
the flange was installed.

So, I put the old toilet seat back on. Seemed Ok, no leaks, until you
use another drain in the house, then sewer gas comes up.

Also, the left side of the flange is cracked where the bolt goes
through.

So, I want to replace the flange, but I can't. I did this on my last
house that was a crawl space, but can't figure out how to do this one
because of 2 things.

1. Concrete slab. Not sure how to get to it, where to cut off the old
section, etc.

2. This is the BIG problem, the current flange is Round of course on
the Outside where the bolts go, however the Inside Hole is Oblong. The
actual drain hole is in the front, Not in the center of the flange.

I believe #2 is why the sewer gas problem. I used a standard wax ring,
when I removed the toilet again tonight, I saw the front of the toilet
the wax ring still looked like new. So, hopefully just a Jumbo would
fix that part of the problem.

Any ideas how to replace the flange or how to get a bolt to line up
with the current on on the left side?

I took pictures if anyone wants to see exactly what I am talking
about. I did stop by Lowe's on the way home tonigh and bought 4
different flanges, none of them will fit.

Thanks in advance!
Sam

Go Bucks! wrote:
Trying to replace a toilet. I bought the new Champion by American
Standard, we had 2 at the last house. When trying to mount it the left
bolt through the flange was at an angle, it's back a little too far.
No I can't adjust it, that's as far as it will slide due to the way
the flange was installed.

So, I put the old toilet seat back on. Seemed Ok, no leaks, until you
use another drain in the house, then sewer gas comes up.

Also, the left side of the flange is cracked where the bolt goes
through.

So, I want to replace the flange, but I can't. I did this on my last
house that was a crawl space, but can't figure out how to do this one
because of 2 things.

1. Concrete slab. Not sure how to get to it, where to cut off the old
section, etc.

2. This is the BIG problem, the current flange is Round of course on
the Outside where the bolts go, however the Inside Hole is Oblong. The
actual drain hole is in the front, Not in the center of the flange.

I believe #2 is why the sewer gas problem. I used a standard wax ring,
when I removed the toilet again tonight, I saw the front of the toilet
the wax ring still looked like new. So, hopefully just a Jumbo would
fix that part of the problem.

Any ideas how to replace the flange or how to get a bolt to line up
with the current on on the left side?

I took pictures if anyone wants to see exactly what I am talking
about. I did stop by Lowe's on the way home tonigh and bought 4
different flanges, none of them will fit.

Thanks in advance!
Sam


You'll need to find out what pipe material
your flange is connected to. Plastic? Lead? Cast Iron?

Browse this array of repalcement flanges:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/toiletflanges.html
If you can't find one to do the job, chop up the slab :-)

Jim

On Dec 3, 8:38 pm, Speedy Jim wrote:
Go Bucks! wrote:
Trying to replace a toilet. I bought the new Champion by American
Standard, we had 2 at the last house. When trying to mount it the left
bolt through the flange was at an angle, it's back a little too far.
No I can't adjust it, that's as far as it will slide due to the way
the flange was installed.

So, I put the old toilet seat back on. Seemed Ok, no leaks, until you
use another drain in the house, then sewer gas comes up.

Also, the left side of the flange is cracked where the bolt goes
through.

So, I want to replace the flange, but I can't. I did this on my last
house that was a crawl space, but can't figure out how to do this one
because of 2 things.

1. Concrete slab. Not sure how to get to it, where to cut off the old
section, etc.

2. This is the BIG problem, the current flange is Round of course on
the Outside where the bolts go, however the Inside Hole is Oblong. The
actual drain hole is in the front, Not in the center of the flange.

I believe #2 is why the sewer gas problem. I used a standard wax ring,
when I removed the toilet again tonight, I saw the front of the toilet
the wax ring still looked like new. So, hopefully just a Jumbo would
fix that part of the problem.

Any ideas how to replace the flange or how to get a bolt to line up
with the current on on the left side?

I took pictures if anyone wants to see exactly what I am talking
about. I did stop by Lowe's on the way home tonigh and bought 4
different flanges, none of them will fit.

Thanks in advance!
Sam

You'll need to find out what pipe material
your flange is connected to. Plastic? Lead? Cast Iron?

Browse this array of repalcement flanges:http://www.plumbingsupply.com/toiletflanges.html
If you can't find one to do the job, chop up the slab :-)

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sorry, should have mentioned that, it is plastic

On Dec 3, 8:51 pm, "Go Bucks!" wrote:
On Dec 3, 8:38 pm, Speedy Jim wrote:





Go Bucks! wrote:
Trying to replace a toilet. I bought the new Champion by American
Standard, we had 2 at the last house. When trying to mount it the left
bolt through the flange was at an angle, it's back a little too far.
No I can't adjust it, that's as far as it will slide due to the way
the flange was installed.

So, I put the old toilet seat back on. Seemed Ok, no leaks, until you
use another drain in the house, then sewer gas comes up.

Also, the left side of the flange is cracked where the bolt goes
through.

So, I want to replace the flange, but I can't. I did this on my last
house that was a crawl space, but can't figure out how to do this one
because of 2 things.

1. Concrete slab. Not sure how to get to it, where to cut off the old
section, etc.

2. This is the BIG problem, the current flange is Round of course on
the Outside where the bolts go, however the Inside Hole is Oblong. The
actual drain hole is in the front, Not in the center of the flange.

I believe #2 is why the sewer gas problem. I used a standard wax ring,
when I removed the toilet again tonight, I saw the front of the toilet
the wax ring still looked like new. So, hopefully just a Jumbo would
fix that part of the problem.

Any ideas how to replace the flange or how to get a bolt to line up
with the current on on the left side?

I took pictures if anyone wants to see exactly what I am talking
about. I did stop by Lowe's on the way home tonigh and bought 4
different flanges, none of them will fit.

Thanks in advance!
Sam

You'll need to find out what pipe material
your flange is connected to. Plastic? Lead? Cast Iron?

Browse this array of repalcement flanges:http://www.plumbingsupply.com/toiletflanges.html
If you can't find one to do the job, chop up the slab :-)

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sorry, should have mentioned that, it is plastic- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I posted pics of the strange flange I have.

http://picasaweb.google.com/sam.woodson/ToiletFlange

I'm looking through the website now.

Thanks,

Go Bucks! wrote:

On Dec 3, 8:51 pm, "Go Bucks!" wrote:

On Dec 3, 8:38 pm, Speedy Jim wrote:






Go Bucks! wrote:

Trying to replace a toilet. I bought the new Champion by American
Standard, we had 2 at the last house. When trying to mount it the left
bolt through the flange was at an angle, it's back a little too far.
No I can't adjust it, that's as far as it will slide due to the way
the flange was installed.

So, I put the old toilet seat back on. Seemed Ok, no leaks, until you
use another drain in the house, then sewer gas comes up.

Also, the left side of the flange is cracked where the bolt goes
through.

So, I want to replace the flange, but I can't. I did this on my last
house that was a crawl space, but can't figure out how to do this one
because of 2 things.

1. Concrete slab. Not sure how to get to it, where to cut off the old
section, etc.

2. This is the BIG problem, the current flange is Round of course on
the Outside where the bolts go, however the Inside Hole is Oblong. The
actual drain hole is in the front, Not in the center of the flange.

I believe #2 is why the sewer gas problem. I used a standard wax ring,
when I removed the toilet again tonight, I saw the front of the toilet
the wax ring still looked like new. So, hopefully just a Jumbo would
fix that part of the problem.

Any ideas how to replace the flange or how to get a bolt to line up
with the current on on the left side?

I took pictures if anyone wants to see exactly what I am talking
about. I did stop by Lowe's on the way home tonigh and bought 4
different flanges, none of them will fit.

Thanks in advance!
Sam

You'll need to find out what pipe material
your flange is connected to. Plastic? Lead? Cast Iron?

Browse this array of repalcement flanges:http://www.plumbingsupply.com/toiletflanges.html
If you can't find one to do the job, chop up the slab :-)

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sorry, should have mentioned that, it is plastic- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I posted pics of the strange flange I have.

http://picasaweb.google.com/sam.woodson/ToiletFlange

I'm looking through the website now.

Thanks,


Looked at your photo. The outlet looks to
be small diameter. Not 2" pipe is it?
Or, 3" with the flange outlet *inside* the pipe?

You may have to replace with the exact same flange
due to the offset. And that means "ungluing" the
joint between flange and pipe. How you do that will
depend on whether the connection is inside or outside
the pipe.

There are "inside" cutters made for plastic pipe
if it comes to that.

Or you might have to chisel away the remnants of the
flange and then dig out the slab around the pipe a bit.

Jim

On Dec 3, 9:32 pm, Speedy Jim wrote:
Go Bucks! wrote:
On Dec 3, 8:51 pm, "Go Bucks!" wrote:

On Dec 3, 8:38 pm, Speedy Jim wrote:

Go Bucks! wrote:

Trying to replace a toilet. I bought the new Champion by American
Standard, we had 2 at the last house. When trying to mount it the left
bolt through the flange was at an angle, it's back a little too far.
No I can't adjust it, that's as far as it will slide due to the way
the flange was installed.

So, I put the old toilet seat back on. Seemed Ok, no leaks, until you
use another drain in the house, then sewer gas comes up.

Also, the left side of the flange is cracked where the bolt goes
through.

So, I want to replace the flange, but I can't. I did this on my last
house that was a crawl space, but can't figure out how to do this one
because of 2 things.

1. Concrete slab. Not sure how to get to it, where to cut off the old
section, etc.

2. This is the BIG problem, the current flange is Round of course on
the Outside where the bolts go, however the Inside Hole is Oblong. The
actual drain hole is in the front, Not in the center of the flange.

I believe #2 is why the sewer gas problem. I used a standard wax ring,
when I removed the toilet again tonight, I saw the front of the toilet
the wax ring still looked like new. So, hopefully just a Jumbo would
fix that part of the problem.

Any ideas how to replace the flange or how to get a bolt to line up
with the current on on the left side?

I took pictures if anyone wants to see exactly what I am talking
about. I did stop by Lowe's on the way home tonigh and bought 4
different flanges, none of them will fit.

Thanks in advance!
Sam

You'll need to find out what pipe material
your flange is connected to. Plastic? Lead? Cast Iron?

Browse this array of repalcement flanges:http://www.plumbingsupply.com/toiletflanges.html
If you can't find one to do the job, chop up the slab :-)

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sorry, should have mentioned that, it is plastic- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I posted pics of the strange flange I have.

http://picasaweb.google.com/sam.woodson/ToiletFlange

I'm looking through the website now.

Thanks,

Looked at your photo. The outlet looks to
be small diameter. Not 2" pipe is it?
Or, 3" with the flange outlet *inside* the pipe?

You may have to replace with the exact same flange
due to the offset. And that means "ungluing" the
joint between flange and pipe. How you do that will
depend on whether the connection is inside or outside
the pipe.

There are "inside" cutters made for plastic pipe
if it comes to that.

Or you might have to chisel away the remnants of the
flange and then dig out the slab around the pipe a bit.

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It seems to be a 3 inch and I can't tell if it's an inside our outside
the pipe connection.

I eMailed the company from the link you sent. If they don't have
something or Lowe's/Home Depot doesn't, I may just get a smaller
toilet. etc that lines up ok.

Thanks,
Sam

Go Bucks! wrote:
On Dec 3, 9:32 pm, Speedy Jim wrote:
Go Bucks! wrote:
On Dec 3, 8:51 pm, "Go Bucks!" wrote:
On Dec 3, 8:38 pm, Speedy Jim wrote:
Go Bucks! wrote:
Trying to replace a toilet. I bought the new Champion by American
Standard, we had 2 at the last house. When trying to mount it the left
bolt through the flange was at an angle, it's back a little too far.
No I can't adjust it, that's as far as it will slide due to the way
the flange was installed.
So, I put the old toilet seat back on. Seemed Ok, no leaks, until you
use another drain in the house, then sewer gas comes up.
Also, the left side of the flange is cracked where the bolt goes
through.
So, I want to replace the flange, but I can't. I did this on my last
house that was a crawl space, but can't figure out how to do this one
because of 2 things.
1. Concrete slab. Not sure how to get to it, where to cut off the old
section, etc.
2. This is the BIG problem, the current flange is Round of course on
the Outside where the bolts go, however the Inside Hole is Oblong. The
actual drain hole is in the front, Not in the center of the flange.
I believe #2 is why the sewer gas problem. I used a standard wax ring,
when I removed the toilet again tonight, I saw the front of the toilet
the wax ring still looked like new. So, hopefully just a Jumbo would
fix that part of the problem.
Any ideas how to replace the flange or how to get a bolt to line up
with the current on on the left side?
I took pictures if anyone wants to see exactly what I am talking
about. I did stop by Lowe's on the way home tonigh and bought 4
different flanges, none of them will fit.
Thanks in advance!
Sam
You'll need to find out what pipe material
your flange is connected to. Plastic? Lead? Cast Iron?
Browse this array of repalcement flanges:http://www.plumbingsupply.com/toiletflanges.html
If you can't find one to do the job, chop up the slab :-)
Jim- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Sorry, should have mentioned that, it is plastic- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
I posted pics of the strange flange I have.
http://picasaweb.google.com/sam.woodson/ToiletFlange
I'm looking through the website now.
Thanks,
Looked at your photo. The outlet looks to
be small diameter. Not 2" pipe is it?
Or, 3" with the flange outlet *inside* the pipe?

You may have to replace with the exact same flange
due to the offset. And that means "ungluing" the
joint between flange and pipe. How you do that will
depend on whether the connection is inside or outside
the pipe.

There are "inside" cutters made for plastic pipe
if it comes to that.

Or you might have to chisel away the remnants of the
flange and then dig out the slab around the pipe a bit.

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It seems to be a 3 inch and I can't tell if it's an inside our outside
the pipe connection.

I eMailed the company from the link you sent. If they don't have
something or Lowe's/Home Depot doesn't, I may just get a smaller
toilet. etc that lines up ok.

Thanks,
Sam
I needed to move a toilet about 2" to
the right during a remodel ... concrete
floor, cast iron flange and cast iron
pipe. I rented an electric jack hammer
and chiseled out around the old flange.
I had to use a kludge cutoff wheel
connect to a slowed down router to cut
the cast pipe about 3" below the top of
the concrete floor. Anyway, this is
similar but somewhat different. I used
a PVC flange like yours with the piece
of PVC going into the cast pipe with a
rubber conversion sleeve. Because you
have PVC pipe, you can use a coupling
and a piece of pipe, all below the
surface, to connect to a new flange. I
then, some concrete to patch up the
hole. It wasn't easy, but it did work
well. It was a lot of work for 2", but
it made a bad, too small powder room
into a really nice room. Your job will
probably be just as difficult.