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Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles. So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has become
kind of a battle of wills.

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Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles. So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.

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Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 5:07:16 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles. So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.


It's stuck from carbon build up, so I don't see how that could be a factor.
Cylinder looks fine, piston had brown/black shellac like stuff on parts of
it, cleaned that off (again) with steel wool. It would seem more likely
that it's coming from not burning clean, but like I said, with the new
carb on it ran great, full power, no smoke, idled fine... It does sit
for months at a time, with gas in it, I wonder if the gas could be less
than ideal and causing it? But the other weird thing, it ran with the
original carb on half choke for ten years before the ring fouled and stuck.
The new ring, with the new carb, if fouled after maybe 8 hours of use.
I think I was starting to have trouble starting it last fall, the last
few times I used it. IDK, very frustrating. I am getting better at
working on these though. I had a combo lawn edger and weed whacker
with switchable attachments that crapped out. fixed that with a rebuild
kit for the carb, that was my first two stroke carb rebuild. And taking
that apart, very hard to tell anything was wrong. Only thing I think that
might have been wrong, the diaphragm that's the pump was stretched a bit.
But then I didn't know how it's supposed to look either. The replacement
one was much tighter, like a drum and I guess that was what was wrong
with it. Haven't run that in a couple months, maybe next that will be
kaput again...... It never ends.
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Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles. So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.

Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine spec or
the oil spec? Are you using ethanol free gas? I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine, right?) to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine says 16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the instructions on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that could be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the piston.
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Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:39:29 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles. So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.

Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine spec or
the oil spec? Are you using ethanol free gas? I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine, right?) to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine says 16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the instructions on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that could be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the piston.





"Weed Eater warns against using automotive or boat engine oil,
since it is not properly formulated and can damage the engine."

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/kind-o...ead-88620.html

John T.



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Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 19:21:48 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:39:29 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400,
wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles. So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.

Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine spec or
the oil spec? Are you using ethanol free gas? I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine, right?) to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine says 16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the instructions on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that could be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the piston.





"Weed Eater warns against using automotive or boat engine oil,
since it is not properly formulated and can damage the engine."

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/kind-o...ead-88620.html

John T.

Like I said - do NOT use outboard motor oil - - - -
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Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 5:39:33 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles. So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.

Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine spec or
the oil spec?


It was to the engine spec, or close to it. 40:1 I have that and a
lawn edger, one might be 40, the other 45, I know if one is different,
I just split the difference. I can check tomorrow and see what the oil
says.




Are you using ethanol free gas?


No, I don't even know where to find it around here. I guess I could
buy the super expensive stuff at HD, but then if it's ethanol related,
why did it work for 10+ years, but now foul the ring, then foul it
again in only 8 hours? Also, in the fall, when I was having trouble,
I did mix up fresh gas and used it within a month or two. So it's not
like it had old gas that then ran through it causing the problems.
It was fresh gas that caused the trouble. I think I recall it getting
harder to start the last couple times in Dec, then would not start at
all just now.

But in general, usually, the gas does sit around. You know how it goes.
I have a one gallon
plastic jug, the little oil things come in a size that makes a gallon.
But after the fall, whatever is left, sits there. I guess I could throw
it out. But funny thing here, I took the carb apart and it was
spotless, no sign of anything fouling.



I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine, right?)


No, it's regular synthetic, not marine.


to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine says 16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the instructions on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that could be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the piston.


Thanks.
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Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On 7/6/19 10:43 am, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 5:39:33 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles. So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.

Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine spec or
the oil spec?


It was to the engine spec, or close to it. 40:1 I have that and a
lawn edger, one might be 40, the other 45, I know if one is different,
I just split the difference. I can check tomorrow and see what the oil
says.




Are you using ethanol free gas?


No, I don't even know where to find it around here. I guess I could
buy the super expensive stuff at HD, but then if it's ethanol related,
why did it work for 10+ years, but now foul the ring, then foul it
again in only 8 hours? Also, in the fall, when I was having trouble,
I did mix up fresh gas and used it within a month or two. So it's not
like it had old gas that then ran through it causing the problems.
It was fresh gas that caused the trouble. I think I recall it getting
harder to start the last couple times in Dec, then would not start at
all just now.

But in general, usually, the gas does sit around. You know how it goes.
I have a one gallon
plastic jug, the little oil things come in a size that makes a gallon.
But after the fall, whatever is left, sits there. I guess I could throw
it out. But funny thing here, I took the carb apart and it was
spotless, no sign of anything fouling.



I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine, right?)


No, it's regular synthetic, not marine.


to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine says 16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the instructions on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that could be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the piston.


Thanks.

In the US, the fuel is, for want of a better word, crap. You cannot
*leave it* in the machine and you need to properly *winterise* any and
all petrol powered equipment. EG.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...-properly.html

The shellac like appearance is from the breakdown of the fuel that is
remaining in the cylinders. It is normal to run the devices out of fuel
but with two stroke engines that's a fraught practice. In that case you
need to use a *fuel stabilizer*.

Two points about ethanol laced fuel; 1, it does not store well and will
rapidly break down with the ethanol separating out and forming a nasty
smelling brown gunk which clogs carburettors and forms varnish like
coatings on everything. Hence the need for a fuel stabilizer additive.
2, the ethanol is *hygroscopic* which means it will absorb atmospheric
moisture and become very corrosive.





--

Xeno


Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)
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Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 12:42:46 AM UTC-4, Xeno wrote:
On 7/6/19 10:43 am, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 5:39:33 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles. So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.
Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine spec or
the oil spec?


It was to the engine spec, or close to it. 40:1 I have that and a
lawn edger, one might be 40, the other 45, I know if one is different,
I just split the difference. I can check tomorrow and see what the oil
says.




Are you using ethanol free gas?


No, I don't even know where to find it around here. I guess I could
buy the super expensive stuff at HD, but then if it's ethanol related,
why did it work for 10+ years, but now foul the ring, then foul it
again in only 8 hours? Also, in the fall, when I was having trouble,
I did mix up fresh gas and used it within a month or two. So it's not
like it had old gas that then ran through it causing the problems.
It was fresh gas that caused the trouble. I think I recall it getting
harder to start the last couple times in Dec, then would not start at
all just now.

But in general, usually, the gas does sit around. You know how it goes.
I have a one gallon
plastic jug, the little oil things come in a size that makes a gallon.
But after the fall, whatever is left, sits there. I guess I could throw
it out. But funny thing here, I took the carb apart and it was
spotless, no sign of anything fouling.



I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine, right?)


No, it's regular synthetic, not marine.


to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine says 16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the instructions on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that could be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the piston.


Thanks.

In the US, the fuel is, for want of a better word, crap. You cannot
*leave it* in the machine and you need to properly *winterise* any and
all petrol powered equipment. EG.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...-properly.html

The shellac like appearance is from the breakdown of the fuel that is
remaining in the cylinders. It is normal to run the devices out of fuel
but with two stroke engines that's a fraught practice. In that case you
need to use a *fuel stabilizer*.


That's an interesting theory, that the shellac like stuff isn't from
combustion of the fuel, but from whatever is left that later dries up
and hardens. But it doesn't really explain how a new ring failed in
so few hours, while the previous one lasted ten years, with no change
in how I've used it. Also, after fixing it last fall, I used it every
couple weeks, for a total of maybe 8 hours and I recall that near the
end, it was getting harder to start, so I suspect the ring was already
fouled. In which case, if it's fuel left in the cylinder, then it must
be happening after it's shut off each time and left for a week or two.





Two points about ethanol laced fuel; 1, it does not store well and will
rapidly break down with the ethanol separating out and forming a nasty
smelling brown gunk which clogs carburettors and forms varnish like
coatings on everything. Hence the need for a fuel stabilizer additive.
2, the ethanol is *hygroscopic* which means it will absorb atmospheric
moisture and become very corrosive.


I have stabilizer and usually add it to the last tank of gas that
I use for the mower, which I also use to make the gas for the two cycles.
Can't say for sure that I did it this winter though. I suppose it's a
good idea to just put some in each time I refill it. On the other
hand, the Sears mower, also ten plus years old, with gas left in it
over winter, never a problem, starts right up. Then I have a Sears
snowblower with a Tecumseh engine, and that has fouled from gas,
I've has that carb off, cleaned it several times. This is so hard
to understand. Some carbs seem very vulnerable, others immune.
And with the blower, it ran for ten years, fine. I suppose something
else could be going on, maybe now that it's old it doesn't burn as
clean. But I was thinking the opposite. Like I said, when I bought it,
I should have returned it. It seemed it would not run as well with
choke off as with half choke. With half choke, it would instantly pick
up speed. So, I ran it that way for ten years. Of course if those
hippie environmentalists didn't make the carb screws so you can't
adjust them with a screwdriver, I would have just made it run right
ten years ago. Meanwhile, I hope they are happy, all the whales I've
killed running it rich all those years.

When that ring fouled
and stuck last fall, I figured it was carbon and likely from it running
too rich all those years. I thought with the new ring, I was good to
go. Shortly after, I had problems with the carb and bought a new one
from China. With that, she fired right up and ran perfectly, no choke,
better than ever. So then I thought for sure I was good to go for a long
time. Yet is seems that it had trouble starting at the end of last fall.
IDK, very frustrating. I suppose I should go buy a new one, but not
sure they don't have trouble too.

Thanks for the tips. I will start adding stabilizer to the fuel,
even during periods when eqpt is being used, because a two gallon
can lasts me many months even then. I wonder if it's a good idea
to pull the plug on the blower and squirt some fogging oil or similar
in at the end of the season? If the ring is getting stuck from leftover
crap in there, that should help, can't hurt.









--

Xeno


Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)


  #10   Report Post  
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Posts: 40,893
Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring



"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 12:42:46 AM UTC-4, Xeno wrote:
On 7/6/19 10:43 am, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 5:39:33 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears
two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the
carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles. So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After
putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has
become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.
Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine spec or
the oil spec?

It was to the engine spec, or close to it. 40:1 I have that and a
lawn edger, one might be 40, the other 45, I know if one is different,
I just split the difference. I can check tomorrow and see what the oil
says.




Are you using ethanol free gas?

No, I don't even know where to find it around here. I guess I could
buy the super expensive stuff at HD, but then if it's ethanol related,
why did it work for 10+ years, but now foul the ring, then foul it
again in only 8 hours? Also, in the fall, when I was having trouble,
I did mix up fresh gas and used it within a month or two. So it's not
like it had old gas that then ran through it causing the problems.
It was fresh gas that caused the trouble. I think I recall it getting
harder to start the last couple times in Dec, then would not start at
all just now.

But in general, usually, the gas does sit around. You know how it
goes.
I have a one gallon
plastic jug, the little oil things come in a size that makes a gallon.
But after the fall, whatever is left, sits there. I guess I could
throw
it out. But funny thing here, I took the carb apart and it was
spotless, no sign of anything fouling.



I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine, right?)

No, it's regular synthetic, not marine.


to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine says 16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the instructions on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that could be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the piston.

Thanks.

In the US, the fuel is, for want of a better word, crap. You cannot
*leave it* in the machine and you need to properly *winterise* any and
all petrol powered equipment. EG.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...-properly.html

The shellac like appearance is from the breakdown of the fuel that is
remaining in the cylinders. It is normal to run the devices out of fuel
but with two stroke engines that's a fraught practice. In that case you
need to use a *fuel stabilizer*.


That's an interesting theory, that the shellac like stuff isn't from
combustion of the fuel, but from whatever is left that later dries
up and hardens. But it doesn't really explain how a new ring
failed in so few hours, while the previous one lasted ten years,
with no change in how I've used it.


Maybe the second one was just a dud ring.

Also, after fixing it last fall, I used it every couple weeks,
for a total of maybe 8 hours and I recall that near the
end, it was getting harder to start, so I suspect the ring
was already fouled. In which case, if it's fuel left in the
cylinder, then it must be happening after it's shut off
each time and left for a week or two.


Two points about ethanol laced fuel; 1, it does not store well and will
rapidly break down with the ethanol separating out and forming a nasty
smelling brown gunk which clogs carburettors and forms varnish like
coatings on everything. Hence the need for a fuel stabilizer additive.
2, the ethanol is *hygroscopic* which means it will absorb atmospheric
moisture and become very corrosive.


I have stabilizer and usually add it to the last tank of gas that
I use for the mower, which I also use to make the gas for the two
cycles. Can't say for sure that I did it this winter though. I suppose
it's a good idea to just put some in each time I refill it. On the
other hand, the Sears mower, also ten plus years old, with gas
left in it over winter, never a problem, starts right up.


Maybe that one has a piston which doesnt see a fouled ring so easily.

Then I have a Sears snowblower with a Tecumseh engine,
and that has fouled from gas, I've has that carb off, cleaned
it several times. This is so hard to understand. Some carbs
seem very vulnerable, others immune.


Likely just a better design, designed to not foul so easily.

And with the blower, it ran for ten years, fine. I suppose something
else could be going on, maybe now that it's old it doesn't burn as
clean. But I was thinking the opposite. Like I said, when I bought
it, I should have returned it. It seemed it would not run as well with
choke off as with half choke. With half choke, it would instantly
pick up speed. So, I ran it that way for ten years. Of course if those
hippie environmentalists didn't make the carb screws so you can't
adjust them with a screwdriver, I would have just made it run right
ten years ago. Meanwhile, I hope they are happy, all the whales I've
killed running it rich all those years.


When that ring fouled and stuck last fall, I figured it was carbon
and likely from it running too rich all those years. I thought with
the new ring, I was good to go. Shortly after, I had problems
with the carb and bought a new one from China. With that,
she fired right up and ran perfectly, no choke, better than ever.
So then I thought for sure I was good to go for a long time.
Yet is seems that it had trouble starting at the end of last fall.
IDK, very frustrating. I suppose I should go buy a new one,
but not sure they don't have trouble too.


Yeah, those small engines are a pain in the arse.

Thanks for the tips. I will start adding stabilizer to the fuel, even
during periods when eqpt is being used, because a two gallon
can lasts me many months even then. I wonder if it's a good
idea to pull the plug on the blower and squirt some fogging
oil or similar in at the end of the season? If the ring is getting
stuck from leftover crap in there, that should help, can't hurt.





  #11   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,153
Default Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert!

On Sat, 8 Jun 2019 04:15:21 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Yeah, those small engines are a pain in the arse.


Well, then they certainly are like you, you senile pest!

--
Richard addressing Rot Speed:
"**** you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll."
MID:
  #12   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 15,279
Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 2:15:33 PM UTC-4, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 12:42:46 AM UTC-4, Xeno wrote:
On 7/6/19 10:43 am, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 5:39:33 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears
two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the
carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles. So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After
putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has
become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.
Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine spec or
the oil spec?

It was to the engine spec, or close to it. 40:1 I have that and a
lawn edger, one might be 40, the other 45, I know if one is different,
I just split the difference. I can check tomorrow and see what the oil
says.




Are you using ethanol free gas?

No, I don't even know where to find it around here. I guess I could
buy the super expensive stuff at HD, but then if it's ethanol related,
why did it work for 10+ years, but now foul the ring, then foul it
again in only 8 hours? Also, in the fall, when I was having trouble,
I did mix up fresh gas and used it within a month or two. So it's not
like it had old gas that then ran through it causing the problems.
It was fresh gas that caused the trouble. I think I recall it getting
harder to start the last couple times in Dec, then would not start at
all just now.

But in general, usually, the gas does sit around. You know how it
goes.
I have a one gallon
plastic jug, the little oil things come in a size that makes a gallon.
But after the fall, whatever is left, sits there. I guess I could
throw
it out. But funny thing here, I took the carb apart and it was
spotless, no sign of anything fouling.



I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine, right?)

No, it's regular synthetic, not marine.


to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine says 16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the instructions on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that could be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the piston.

Thanks.

In the US, the fuel is, for want of a better word, crap. You cannot
*leave it* in the machine and you need to properly *winterise* any and
all petrol powered equipment. EG.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...-properly.html

The shellac like appearance is from the breakdown of the fuel that is
remaining in the cylinders. It is normal to run the devices out of fuel
but with two stroke engines that's a fraught practice. In that case you
need to use a *fuel stabilizer*.


That's an interesting theory, that the shellac like stuff isn't from
combustion of the fuel, but from whatever is left that later dries
up and hardens. But it doesn't really explain how a new ring
failed in so few hours, while the previous one lasted ten years,
with no change in how I've used it.


Maybe the second one was just a dud ring.


What is a dud ring? It's just spring steel. The problem isn't the
ring, it's that carbon and gunk fills up the groove so the ring sticks,
it binds up in the piston groove.


  #13   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 40,893
Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring



"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 2:15:33 PM UTC-4, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 12:42:46 AM UTC-4, Xeno wrote:
On 7/6/19 10:43 am, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 5:39:33 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears
two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out
it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it
out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the
carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles.
So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't
start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I
figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After
putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old
carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic
oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in
just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but
it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has
become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.
Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine spec
or
the oil spec?

It was to the engine spec, or close to it. 40:1 I have that and a
lawn edger, one might be 40, the other 45, I know if one is
different,
I just split the difference. I can check tomorrow and see what the
oil
says.




Are you using ethanol free gas?

No, I don't even know where to find it around here. I guess I could
buy the super expensive stuff at HD, but then if it's ethanol
related,
why did it work for 10+ years, but now foul the ring, then foul it
again in only 8 hours? Also, in the fall, when I was having
trouble,
I did mix up fresh gas and used it within a month or two. So it's
not
like it had old gas that then ran through it causing the problems.
It was fresh gas that caused the trouble. I think I recall it
getting
harder to start the last couple times in Dec, then would not start
at
all just now.

But in general, usually, the gas does sit around. You know how it
goes.
I have a one gallon
plastic jug, the little oil things come in a size that makes a
gallon.
But after the fall, whatever is left, sits there. I guess I could
throw
it out. But funny thing here, I took the carb apart and it was
spotless, no sign of anything fouling.



I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine, right?)

No, it's regular synthetic, not marine.


to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine says
16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the instructions on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that could
be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the
piston.

Thanks.

In the US, the fuel is, for want of a better word, crap. You cannot
*leave it* in the machine and you need to properly *winterise* any and
all petrol powered equipment. EG.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...-properly.html

The shellac like appearance is from the breakdown of the fuel that is
remaining in the cylinders. It is normal to run the devices out of
fuel
but with two stroke engines that's a fraught practice. In that case
you
need to use a *fuel stabilizer*.


That's an interesting theory, that the shellac like stuff isn't from
combustion of the fuel, but from whatever is left that later dries
up and hardens. But it doesn't really explain how a new ring
failed in so few hours, while the previous one lasted ten years,
with no change in how I've used it.


Maybe the second one was just a dud ring.


What is a dud ring?


One that isnt made properly so its too easy
to gunk up and jam in the slot in the piston.

It's just spring steel. The problem isn't the ring,
it's that carbon and gunk fills up the groove so
the ring sticks, it binds up in the piston groove.


Duh, but if the ring isnt finished properly it
can gunk up enough to jam in the groove.

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Default Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert!

On Sat, 8 Jun 2019 05:40:07 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

FLUSH another 157 !!! lines of idiotic troll blather

....and nothing's left!

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Richard addressing Rot Speed:
"**** you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll."
MID:

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Posts: 578
Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On 8/6/19 5:03 am, trader_4 wrote:
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 2:15:33 PM UTC-4, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 12:42:46 AM UTC-4, Xeno wrote:
On 7/6/19 10:43 am, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 5:39:33 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears
two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the
carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles. So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After
putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has
become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.
Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine spec or
the oil spec?

It was to the engine spec, or close to it. 40:1 I have that and a
lawn edger, one might be 40, the other 45, I know if one is different,
I just split the difference. I can check tomorrow and see what the oil
says.




Are you using ethanol free gas?

No, I don't even know where to find it around here. I guess I could
buy the super expensive stuff at HD, but then if it's ethanol related,
why did it work for 10+ years, but now foul the ring, then foul it
again in only 8 hours? Also, in the fall, when I was having trouble,
I did mix up fresh gas and used it within a month or two. So it's not
like it had old gas that then ran through it causing the problems.
It was fresh gas that caused the trouble. I think I recall it getting
harder to start the last couple times in Dec, then would not start at
all just now.

But in general, usually, the gas does sit around. You know how it
goes.
I have a one gallon
plastic jug, the little oil things come in a size that makes a gallon.
But after the fall, whatever is left, sits there. I guess I could
throw
it out. But funny thing here, I took the carb apart and it was
spotless, no sign of anything fouling.



I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine, right?)

No, it's regular synthetic, not marine.


to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine says 16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the instructions on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that could be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the piston.

Thanks.

In the US, the fuel is, for want of a better word, crap. You cannot
*leave it* in the machine and you need to properly *winterise* any and
all petrol powered equipment. EG.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...-properly.html

The shellac like appearance is from the breakdown of the fuel that is
remaining in the cylinders. It is normal to run the devices out of fuel
but with two stroke engines that's a fraught practice. In that case you
need to use a *fuel stabilizer*.


That's an interesting theory, that the shellac like stuff isn't from
combustion of the fuel, but from whatever is left that later dries
up and hardens. But it doesn't really explain how a new ring
failed in so few hours, while the previous one lasted ten years,
with no change in how I've used it.


Maybe the second one was just a dud ring.


What is a dud ring? It's just spring steel. The problem isn't the
ring, it's that carbon and gunk fills up the groove so the ring sticks,
it binds up in the piston groove.


It is more than likely cast iron.


--

Xeno


Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)


  #16   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,564
Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On Fri, 7 Jun 2019 14:42:38 +1000, Xeno
wrote:

On 7/6/19 10:43 am, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 5:39:33 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles. So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.
Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine spec or
the oil spec?


It was to the engine spec, or close to it. 40:1 I have that and a
lawn edger, one might be 40, the other 45, I know if one is different,
I just split the difference. I can check tomorrow and see what the oil
says.




Are you using ethanol free gas?


No, I don't even know where to find it around here. I guess I could
buy the super expensive stuff at HD, but then if it's ethanol related,
why did it work for 10+ years, but now foul the ring, then foul it
again in only 8 hours? Also, in the fall, when I was having trouble,
I did mix up fresh gas and used it within a month or two. So it's not
like it had old gas that then ran through it causing the problems.
It was fresh gas that caused the trouble. I think I recall it getting
harder to start the last couple times in Dec, then would not start at
all just now.

But in general, usually, the gas does sit around. You know how it goes.
I have a one gallon
plastic jug, the little oil things come in a size that makes a gallon.
But after the fall, whatever is left, sits there. I guess I could throw
it out. But funny thing here, I took the carb apart and it was
spotless, no sign of anything fouling.



I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine, right?)


No, it's regular synthetic, not marine.


to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine says 16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the instructions on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that could be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the piston.


Thanks.

In the US, the fuel is, for want of a better word, crap. You cannot
*leave it* in the machine and you need to properly *winterise* any and
all petrol powered equipment. EG.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...-properly.html

The shellac like appearance is from the breakdown of the fuel that is
remaining in the cylinders. It is normal to run the devices out of fuel
but with two stroke engines that's a fraught practice. In that case you
need to use a *fuel stabilizer*.


Which is why I recommended "sea foam". It prevents the varnishing,
removes varnish, and stabilizes the fuel.
Two points about ethanol laced fuel; 1, it does not store well and will
rapidly break down with the ethanol separating out and forming a nasty
smelling brown gunk which clogs carburettors and forms varnish like
coatings on everything. Hence the need for a fuel stabilizer additive.
2, the ethanol is *hygroscopic* which means it will absorb atmospheric
moisture and become very corrosive.

  #17   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 15,279
Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 3:43:06 PM UTC-4, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 2:15:33 PM UTC-4, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 12:42:46 AM UTC-4, Xeno wrote:
On 7/6/19 10:43 am, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 5:39:33 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears
two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out
it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it
out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the
carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles.
So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't
start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I
figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After
putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old
carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic
oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in
just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but
it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has
become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.
Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine spec
or
the oil spec?

It was to the engine spec, or close to it. 40:1 I have that and a
lawn edger, one might be 40, the other 45, I know if one is
different,
I just split the difference. I can check tomorrow and see what the
oil
says.




Are you using ethanol free gas?

No, I don't even know where to find it around here. I guess I could
buy the super expensive stuff at HD, but then if it's ethanol
related,
why did it work for 10+ years, but now foul the ring, then foul it
again in only 8 hours? Also, in the fall, when I was having
trouble,
I did mix up fresh gas and used it within a month or two. So it's
not
like it had old gas that then ran through it causing the problems.
It was fresh gas that caused the trouble. I think I recall it
getting
harder to start the last couple times in Dec, then would not start
at
all just now.

But in general, usually, the gas does sit around. You know how it
goes.
I have a one gallon
plastic jug, the little oil things come in a size that makes a
gallon.
But after the fall, whatever is left, sits there. I guess I could
throw
it out. But funny thing here, I took the carb apart and it was
spotless, no sign of anything fouling.



I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine, right?)

No, it's regular synthetic, not marine.


to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine says
16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the instructions on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that could
be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the
piston.

Thanks.

In the US, the fuel is, for want of a better word, crap. You cannot
*leave it* in the machine and you need to properly *winterise* any and
all petrol powered equipment. EG.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...-properly.html

The shellac like appearance is from the breakdown of the fuel that is
remaining in the cylinders. It is normal to run the devices out of
fuel
but with two stroke engines that's a fraught practice. In that case
you
need to use a *fuel stabilizer*.

That's an interesting theory, that the shellac like stuff isn't from
combustion of the fuel, but from whatever is left that later dries
up and hardens. But it doesn't really explain how a new ring
failed in so few hours, while the previous one lasted ten years,
with no change in how I've used it.

Maybe the second one was just a dud ring.


What is a dud ring?


One that isnt made properly so its too easy
to gunk up and jam in the slot in the piston.


It fit, it floated freely in the groove.



It's just spring steel. The problem isn't the ring,
it's that carbon and gunk fills up the groove so
the ring sticks, it binds up in the piston groove.


Duh, but if the ring isnt finished properly it
can gunk up enough to jam in the groove.


Yeah, sure, whatever.

  #18   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 578
Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On 8/6/19 10:52 am, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 7 Jun 2019 14:42:38 +1000, Xeno
wrote:

On 7/6/19 10:43 am, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 5:39:33 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this Sears two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured out it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get it out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all the carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles. So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years. After putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the old carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again in just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this has become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.
Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine spec or
the oil spec?

It was to the engine spec, or close to it. 40:1 I have that and a
lawn edger, one might be 40, the other 45, I know if one is different,
I just split the difference. I can check tomorrow and see what the oil
says.




Are you using ethanol free gas?

No, I don't even know where to find it around here. I guess I could
buy the super expensive stuff at HD, but then if it's ethanol related,
why did it work for 10+ years, but now foul the ring, then foul it
again in only 8 hours? Also, in the fall, when I was having trouble,
I did mix up fresh gas and used it within a month or two. So it's not
like it had old gas that then ran through it causing the problems.
It was fresh gas that caused the trouble. I think I recall it getting
harder to start the last couple times in Dec, then would not start at
all just now.

But in general, usually, the gas does sit around. You know how it goes.
I have a one gallon
plastic jug, the little oil things come in a size that makes a gallon.
But after the fall, whatever is left, sits there. I guess I could throw
it out. But funny thing here, I took the carb apart and it was
spotless, no sign of anything fouling.



I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine, right?)

No, it's regular synthetic, not marine.


to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine says 16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the instructions on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that could be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the piston.

Thanks.

In the US, the fuel is, for want of a better word, crap. You cannot
*leave it* in the machine and you need to properly *winterise* any and
all petrol powered equipment. EG.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...-properly.html

The shellac like appearance is from the breakdown of the fuel that is
remaining in the cylinders. It is normal to run the devices out of fuel
but with two stroke engines that's a fraught practice. In that case you
need to use a *fuel stabilizer*.


Which is why I recommended "sea foam". It prevents the varnishing,
removes varnish, and stabilizes the fuel.


Sorry, I didn't realise Sea Foam (the company) had a fuel stabiliser
product. I was only aware of the Sea Foam spray that is used to clean
out intake systems on GDI engines.

Two points about ethanol laced fuel; 1, it does not store well and will
rapidly break down with the ethanol separating out and forming a nasty
smelling brown gunk which clogs carburettors and forms varnish like
coatings on everything. Hence the need for a fuel stabilizer additive.
2, the ethanol is *hygroscopic* which means it will absorb atmospheric
moisture and become very corrosive.



--

Xeno


Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)
  #19   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 40,893
Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring



"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 3:43:06 PM UTC-4, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 2:15:33 PM UTC-4, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 12:42:46 AM UTC-4, Xeno wrote:
On 7/6/19 10:43 am, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 5:39:33 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder
wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this
Sears
two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured
out
it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get
it
out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all
the
carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it
back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles.
So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it
was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't
start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and
the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some
black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have
it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should
have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So
most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if
they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but
instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I
figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years.
After
putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the
old
carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it
ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic
oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again
in
just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but
it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this
has
become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.
Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine
spec
or
the oil spec?

It was to the engine spec, or close to it. 40:1 I have that and
a
lawn edger, one might be 40, the other 45, I know if one is
different,
I just split the difference. I can check tomorrow and see what
the
oil
says.




Are you using ethanol free gas?

No, I don't even know where to find it around here. I guess I
could
buy the super expensive stuff at HD, but then if it's ethanol
related,
why did it work for 10+ years, but now foul the ring, then foul
it
again in only 8 hours? Also, in the fall, when I was having
trouble,
I did mix up fresh gas and used it within a month or two. So
it's
not
like it had old gas that then ran through it causing the
problems.
It was fresh gas that caused the trouble. I think I recall it
getting
harder to start the last couple times in Dec, then would not
start
at
all just now.

But in general, usually, the gas does sit around. You know how
it
goes.
I have a one gallon
plastic jug, the little oil things come in a size that makes a
gallon.
But after the fall, whatever is left, sits there. I guess I
could
throw
it out. But funny thing here, I took the carb apart and it was
spotless, no sign of anything fouling.



I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine, right?)

No, it's regular synthetic, not marine.


to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine says
16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the instructions
on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that
could
be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled
marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the
piston.

Thanks.

In the US, the fuel is, for want of a better word, crap. You cannot
*leave it* in the machine and you need to properly *winterise* any
and
all petrol powered equipment. EG.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...-properly.html

The shellac like appearance is from the breakdown of the fuel that
is
remaining in the cylinders. It is normal to run the devices out of
fuel
but with two stroke engines that's a fraught practice. In that case
you
need to use a *fuel stabilizer*.

That's an interesting theory, that the shellac like stuff isn't from
combustion of the fuel, but from whatever is left that later dries
up and hardens. But it doesn't really explain how a new ring
failed in so few hours, while the previous one lasted ten years,
with no change in how I've used it.

Maybe the second one was just a dud ring.


What is a dud ring?


One that isnt made properly so its too easy
to gunk up and jam in the slot in the piston.


It fit, it floated freely in the groove.


But may well have had less free space around it in
the groove or have had a worse finish so it gummed
up much quicker than the original one did. Clearly
there has to be a reason it seized up much quicker
and you claimed that it wasnt what fuel etc was
used or how the engine was used.

It's just spring steel. The problem isn't the ring,
it's that carbon and gunk fills up the groove so
the ring sticks, it binds up in the piston groove.


Duh, but if the ring isnt finished properly it
can gunk up enough to jam in the groove.


Yeah, sure, whatever.


You never could bull**** your way out of a wet paper bag.


  #20   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 3,153
Default Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert!

On Sat, 8 Jun 2019 13:33:57 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

FLUSH 208 !!! lines of the usual idiotic blather

--
dennis@home to retarded senile Rot:
"sod off rod you don't have a clue about anything."
Message-ID:


  #21   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 15,279
Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 11:40:52 PM UTC-4, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 3:43:06 PM UTC-4, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 2:15:33 PM UTC-4, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 12:42:46 AM UTC-4, Xeno wrote:
On 7/6/19 10:43 am, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 5:39:33 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder
wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this
Sears
two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally figured
out
it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to get
it
out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all
the
carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it
back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb troubles.
So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when it
was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it won't
start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again and
the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some
black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but have
it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I should
have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So
most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if
they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but
instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I
figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years.
After
putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the
old
carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and it
ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern synthetic
oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled again
in
just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump, but
it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and this
has
become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.
Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine
spec
or
the oil spec?

It was to the engine spec, or close to it. 40:1 I have that and
a
lawn edger, one might be 40, the other 45, I know if one is
different,
I just split the difference. I can check tomorrow and see what
the
oil
says.




Are you using ethanol free gas?

No, I don't even know where to find it around here. I guess I
could
buy the super expensive stuff at HD, but then if it's ethanol
related,
why did it work for 10+ years, but now foul the ring, then foul
it
again in only 8 hours? Also, in the fall, when I was having
trouble,
I did mix up fresh gas and used it within a month or two. So
it's
not
like it had old gas that then ran through it causing the
problems.
It was fresh gas that caused the trouble. I think I recall it
getting
harder to start the last couple times in Dec, then would not
start
at
all just now.

But in general, usually, the gas does sit around. You know how
it
goes.
I have a one gallon
plastic jug, the little oil things come in a size that makes a
gallon.
But after the fall, whatever is left, sits there. I guess I
could
throw
it out. But funny thing here, I took the carb apart and it was
spotless, no sign of anything fouling.



I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine, right?)

No, it's regular synthetic, not marine.


to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine says
16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the instructions
on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that
could
be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled
marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the
piston.

Thanks.

In the US, the fuel is, for want of a better word, crap. You cannot
*leave it* in the machine and you need to properly *winterise* any
and
all petrol powered equipment. EG.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...-properly.html

The shellac like appearance is from the breakdown of the fuel that
is
remaining in the cylinders. It is normal to run the devices out of
fuel
but with two stroke engines that's a fraught practice. In that case
you
need to use a *fuel stabilizer*.

That's an interesting theory, that the shellac like stuff isn't from
combustion of the fuel, but from whatever is left that later dries
up and hardens. But it doesn't really explain how a new ring
failed in so few hours, while the previous one lasted ten years,
with no change in how I've used it.

Maybe the second one was just a dud ring.

What is a dud ring?

One that isnt made properly so its too easy
to gunk up and jam in the slot in the piston.


It fit, it floated freely in the groove.


But may well have had less free space around it in
the groove or have had a worse finish so it gummed
up much quicker than the original one did. Clearly
there has to be a reason it seized up much quicker
and you claimed that it wasnt what fuel etc was
used or how the engine was used.



I didn't claim that it wasn't the fuel, I only said that the fuel that
went in was relatively new, but it was ethanol and it could have been
around for a couple months. What I did say was that fuel like that or
that had been around longer went into it for ten plus years with
no problems until last year. And it's not just the ring,
the sides of the piston had the shellac type brown stuff on it too.



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Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring



"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 11:40:52 PM UTC-4, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 3:43:06 PM UTC-4, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 2:15:33 PM UTC-4, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 7, 2019 at 12:42:46 AM UTC-4, Xeno wrote:
On 7/6/19 10:43 am, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 5:39:33 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder
wrote:
On Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:08:54 -0400,
wrote:

On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 12:45:27 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


OK, so here we go again. Last Fall I had trouble with this
Sears
two
cycle leaf blower, where it would not start. Finally
figured
out
it
was a stuck piston ring. The ring broke when I tried to
get
it
out,
so I cleaned up the groove with a tiny screwdriver, got all
the
carbon
out, got a new ring, put it in. In floated freely. Put it
back
together and it ran fine for awhile, then I had carb
troubles.
So,
I bought a new carb from China and it ran better than when
it
was
new. I put maybe 8 hours of use on it last Fall. Now it
won't
start
again, won't fire.

After exhausting all possibilities, I took it apart again
and
the
piston ring is stuck again. Sides of the piston have some
black,
shellac like stuff on it too. Broke the ring again, but
have
it
all cleaned up again. The question is why did it foul
again?
Some more history, when this was new ten years ago, I
should
have
taken it back, because it didn't run well with no choke. So
most
of the time on it, I ran it with half choke. Of course if
they
had screws you could adjust, I could have tuned it, but
instead I
just put up with it. So, first time the ring got stuck, I
figured
it was probably from running it too rich all those years.
After
putting
the new ring in, I probably ran it for a few hours with the
old
carb
and half choke. But after that I put the new carb on and
it
ran
beautifully, no choke. I made sure to use a modern
synthetic
oil,
mixed to the correct ratio. So, how did it get fouled
again
in
just
8 hours? I know I should just put it out into the dump,
but
it's
otherwise in fine shape and runs great when it runs and
this
has
become
kind of a battle of wills.


Just a wild-ass guess - maybe the original stuck ring
caused some deformation/wear in the cylinder wall
that caused the new ring to stick ?
John T.
Not likely. Are you mixing the synthetic oil to the engine
spec
or
the oil spec?

It was to the engine spec, or close to it. 40:1 I have that
and
a
lawn edger, one might be 40, the other 45, I know if one is
different,
I just split the difference. I can check tomorrow and see
what
the
oil
says.




Are you using ethanol free gas?

No, I don't even know where to find it around here. I guess I
could
buy the super expensive stuff at HD, but then if it's ethanol
related,
why did it work for 10+ years, but now foul the ring, then
foul
it
again in only 8 hours? Also, in the fall, when I was having
trouble,
I did mix up fresh gas and used it within a month or two. So
it's
not
like it had old gas that then ran through it causing the
problems.
It was fresh gas that caused the trouble. I think I recall it
getting
harder to start the last couple times in Dec, then would not
start
at
all just now.

But in general, usually, the gas does sit around. You know
how
it
goes.
I have a one gallon
plastic jug, the little oil things come in a size that makes a
gallon.
But after the fall, whatever is left, sits there. I guess I
could
throw
it out. But funny thing here, I took the carb apart and it
was
spotless, no sign of anything fouling.



I'd throw in a new ring,
mix ethanol free gas with the synthetic oil (not marine,
right?)

No, it's regular synthetic, not marine.


to
the oil manufacturer's sprc - i.e. 50:1 even if the engine
says
16:1 -
and add some "sea foam" to the mix according to the
instructions
on
the can.
If you are using marine or water-cooled snowmobile oil that
could
be
your problem - weedeaters run a lot hotter than water cooled
marine
engines. The cyl walls won't cause the ring to stick in the
piston.

Thanks.

In the US, the fuel is, for want of a better word, crap. You
cannot
*leave it* in the machine and you need to properly *winterise*
any
and
all petrol powered equipment. EG.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...-properly.html

The shellac like appearance is from the breakdown of the fuel
that
is
remaining in the cylinders. It is normal to run the devices out
of
fuel
but with two stroke engines that's a fraught practice. In that
case
you
need to use a *fuel stabilizer*.

That's an interesting theory, that the shellac like stuff isn't
from
combustion of the fuel, but from whatever is left that later
dries
up and hardens. But it doesn't really explain how a new ring
failed in so few hours, while the previous one lasted ten years,
with no change in how I've used it.

Maybe the second one was just a dud ring.

What is a dud ring?

One that isnt made properly so its too easy
to gunk up and jam in the slot in the piston.

It fit, it floated freely in the groove.


But may well have had less free space around it in
the groove or have had a worse finish so it gummed
up much quicker than the original one did. Clearly
there has to be a reason it seized up much quicker
and you claimed that it wasnt what fuel etc was
used or how the engine was used.


I didn't claim that it wasn't the fuel, I only said that the fuel that
went in was relatively new, but it was ethanol and it could have
been around for a couple months. What I did say was that fuel
like that or that had been around longer went into it for ten
plus years with no problems until last year.


Thats what I said you said.

And it's not just the ring, the sides of the piston
had the shellac type brown stuff on it too.


Sure, but its less clear that that stops it working fine.

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Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On Saturday, June 8, 2019 at 12:13:32 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

Update. Piston ring arrived, it's back together and running A-OK
again. IDK what to do at this point. I suppose I should go buy
some of that expensive non-ethanol gas at HD. But I still have
3/4 gallon of mixed, pour it out on the ground? Decisions, decisions...
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Default Sears two cycle leaf blower piston ring

On 12/6/19 6:45 am, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, June 8, 2019 at 12:13:32 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

Update. Piston ring arrived, it's back together and running A-OK
again. IDK what to do at this point. I suppose I should go buy
some of that expensive non-ethanol gas at HD. But I still have
3/4 gallon of mixed, pour it out on the ground? Decisions, decisions...

Given what the crappy fuel has already cost you, it's an easy decision -
ditch it.

--

Xeno


Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)
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