[Seymore4Head[_2_]]

I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

Well now one of the water valves is leaking so it seems like a good
time to fix both problems. I called a plumber and told him what I
needed and he said because of all the busted pipes that he could come
out and replace the valves (so I can turn the water back on to the
house), but the drain would have to be later.

So can he replace the water valves and then come back and shoe in the
drain? I guess my question is can the trim piece be put in after
doing the plumbing or does the drain, water, and trim piece have to go
in together.

[trader_4]

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 5:35:47 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

Well now one of the water valves is leaking so it seems like a good
time to fix both problems. I called a plumber and told him what I
needed and he said because of all the busted pipes that he could come
out and replace the valves (so I can turn the water back on to the
house), but the drain would have to be later.

So can he replace the water valves and then come back and shoe in the
drain? I guess my question is can the trim piece be put in after
doing the plumbing or does the drain, water, and trim piece have to go
in together.

Why do you have to open a wall for a clogged drain? Typically they
can be snaked. Where is it blocked? If it's further down the line
there should be cleanout plugs along the way, eg in the basement, etc.

Why do you have to open a wall for a leaking water valve? If it's
just dripping or leaking at the stem seal, they should be serviceable
with a screwdriver and wrench.

[Oren[_2_]]

On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 17:33:43 -0500, Seymore4Head
wrote:

I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

Well now one of the water valves is leaking so it seems like a good
time to fix both problems. I called a plumber and told him what I
needed and he said because of all the busted pipes that he could come
out and replace the valves (so I can turn the water back on to the
house), but the drain would have to be later.

So can he replace the water valves and then come back and shoe in the
drain? I guess my question is can the trim piece be put in after
doing the plumbing or does the drain, water, and trim piece have to go
in together.

I'll take a stab. The valves can be changed immediately without
tearing into the wall.

As to the drain problem;, perhaps you can stick a dry/wet vac hose
down the drain and extract what ever is causing the blockage. It may
need a temporary hose modification. Can you run a long piece of
something like bailing wire down the drain, maybe grab what causes the
problem? Or dislodge it...

Do you trust your plumber.

[Seymore4Head[_2_]]

On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 14:45:49 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 5:35:47 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

Well now one of the water valves is leaking so it seems like a good
time to fix both problems. I called a plumber and told him what I
needed and he said because of all the busted pipes that he could come
out and replace the valves (so I can turn the water back on to the
house), but the drain would have to be later.

So can he replace the water valves and then come back and shoe in the
drain? I guess my question is can the trim piece be put in after
doing the plumbing or does the drain, water, and trim piece have to go
in together.

Why do you have to open a wall for a clogged drain? Typically they
can be snaked. Where is it blocked? If it's further down the line
there should be cleanout plugs along the way, eg in the basement, etc.

Why do you have to open a wall for a leaking water valve? If it's
just dripping or leaking at the stem seal, they should be serviceable
with a screwdriver and wrench.

The valves are roughly 45 years old and the bottom of the box is
rusted because of a previous leak.

A few years ago I had a plumber try to snake it out and he said the
drain was blocked.

Is the trim piece something that can go in at any time or does it have
to be done in the rough in?

[Frank[_24_]]

On 1/16/2018 5:33 PM, Seymore4Head wrote:
I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

Well now one of the water valves is leaking so it seems like a good
time to fix both problems. I called a plumber and told him what I
needed and he said because of all the busted pipes that he could come
out and replace the valves (so I can turn the water back on to the
house), but the drain would have to be later.

So can he replace the water valves and then come back and shoe in the
drain? I guess my question is can the trim piece be put in after
doing the plumbing or does the drain, water, and trim piece have to go
in together.


I had to have pipes and drain like these rerouted as they were in an
external wall and pipes burst in an unheated section. Been over 40
years and no trouble since.

[Seymore4Head[_2_]]

On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 15:07:29 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 17:33:43 -0500, Seymore4Head
wrote:

I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

Well now one of the water valves is leaking so it seems like a good
time to fix both problems. I called a plumber and told him what I
needed and he said because of all the busted pipes that he could come
out and replace the valves (so I can turn the water back on to the
house), but the drain would have to be later.

So can he replace the water valves and then come back and shoe in the
drain? I guess my question is can the trim piece be put in after
doing the plumbing or does the drain, water, and trim piece have to go
in together.

I'll take a stab. The valves can be changed immediately without
tearing into the wall.

As to the drain problem;, perhaps you can stick a dry/wet vac hose
down the drain and extract what ever is causing the blockage. It may
need a temporary hose modification. Can you run a long piece of
something like bailing wire down the drain, maybe grab what causes the
problem? Or dislodge it...

Do you trust your plumber.

I don't distrust the plumber, but plumbing is not my strong suit. I
have had 2 plumbers try to unstop the drain in the past and both said
the same thing. The blockage is in the first 90 degree bend about 3
or 4 feet from the opening.

The plumber coming out tomorrow has never been here before, but he
works for company everyone recommends. I explained what I had over
the phone to him tonight.

[Oren[_2_]]

On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 18:53:35 -0500, Seymore4Head
wrote:

The plumber coming out tomorrow has never been here before, but he
works for company everyone recommends. I explained what I had over
the phone to him tonight.

Good you get help soon. I like my plumber, but when he started with
tearing a bathroom apart for a cost of thousands, I put the brake on.
Nope. Go through a adjacent closet wall to fix the a tub drain. He did
but the cost $400 -- just a few hours work. My point is not let a guy
buffalo you for more money. He is still my plumber.

[trader_4]

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 6:34:34 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 14:45:49 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 5:35:47 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

Well now one of the water valves is leaking so it seems like a good
time to fix both problems. I called a plumber and told him what I
needed and he said because of all the busted pipes that he could come
out and replace the valves (so I can turn the water back on to the
house), but the drain would have to be later.

So can he replace the water valves and then come back and shoe in the
drain? I guess my question is can the trim piece be put in after
doing the plumbing or does the drain, water, and trim piece have to go
in together.

Why do you have to open a wall for a clogged drain? Typically they
can be snaked. Where is it blocked? If it's further down the line
there should be cleanout plugs along the way, eg in the basement, etc.

Why do you have to open a wall for a leaking water valve? If it's
just dripping or leaking at the stem seal, they should be serviceable
with a screwdriver and wrench.

The valves are roughly 45 years old and the bottom of the box is
rusted because of a previous leak.

A few years ago I had a plumber try to snake it out and he said the
drain was blocked.

Is the trim piece something that can go in at any time or does it have
to be done in the rough in?

AFAIK, the "trim piece" is an assembly that has the valves and the drain
opening and it goes in as a unit. If you want to see one, check it out
at HD. The plumber should have told you how far along the drain the
blockage is. If it's 6 ft away, tearing the top of the drain apart
isn't going to solve it. You'd need access near the blockage, assuming
there is no other way to access it. Hard to imagine what could get
down that kind of drain, ie only used for a washer discharge hose,
that could be a blockage that can't be snaked out. If that box is really
rusted out and shot, then sure, changing it would make sense. If it;s
just cosmetic rust and the real problem is the valves are leaking,
you could fix the valves and repaint the box. And unless the blockage
is right there at the end, whatever is going on with that is essentially
separate from replacing the box. Where does that pipe go, ie is it
accessible in a basement, crawl space, etc?

[Meanie[_2_]]

On 1/16/2018 5:33 PM, Seymore4Head wrote:
I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

Well now one of the water valves is leaking so it seems like a good
time to fix both problems. I called a plumber and told him what I
needed and he said because of all the busted pipes that he could come
out and replace the valves (so I can turn the water back on to the
house), but the drain would have to be later.

So can he replace the water valves and then come back and shoe in the
drain? I guess my question is can the trim piece be put in after
doing the plumbing or does the drain, water, and trim piece have to go
in together.


You're referring to the "trim" piece as the inner box? If so, then yes.
If the entire box and outer trim is one piece, it needs to be inserted
then the final connections of valves and drain. Some boxes have the
inner section (wall inset) then a trim which will snap on the outside
for cosmetic reasons. Either way, the insert (inner box) has to be
installed with the valves and drain.

[Seymore4Head[_2_]]

On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 17:49:15 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 6:34:34 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 14:45:49 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 5:35:47 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

Well now one of the water valves is leaking so it seems like a good
time to fix both problems. I called a plumber and told him what I
needed and he said because of all the busted pipes that he could come
out and replace the valves (so I can turn the water back on to the
house), but the drain would have to be later.

So can he replace the water valves and then come back and shoe in the
drain? I guess my question is can the trim piece be put in after
doing the plumbing or does the drain, water, and trim piece have to go
in together.

Why do you have to open a wall for a clogged drain? Typically they
can be snaked. Where is it blocked? If it's further down the line
there should be cleanout plugs along the way, eg in the basement, etc.

Why do you have to open a wall for a leaking water valve? If it's
just dripping or leaking at the stem seal, they should be serviceable
with a screwdriver and wrench.

The valves are roughly 45 years old and the bottom of the box is
rusted because of a previous leak.

A few years ago I had a plumber try to snake it out and he said the
drain was blocked.

Is the trim piece something that can go in at any time or does it have
to be done in the rough in?

AFAIK, the "trim piece" is an assembly that has the valves and the drain
opening and it goes in as a unit. If you want to see one, check it out
at HD. The plumber should have told you how far along the drain the
blockage is. If it's 6 ft away, tearing the top of the drain apart
isn't going to solve it. You'd need access near the blockage, assuming
there is no other way to access it. Hard to imagine what could get
down that kind of drain, ie only used for a washer discharge hose,
that could be a blockage that can't be snaked out. If that box is really
rusted out and shot, then sure, changing it would make sense. If it;s
just cosmetic rust and the real problem is the valves are leaking,
you could fix the valves and repaint the box. And unless the blockage
is right there at the end, whatever is going on with that is essentially
separate from replacing the box. Where does that pipe go, ie is it
accessible in a basement, crawl space, etc?

I was thinking the same thing about what could have made it blocked,
but I am sure it is in the elbow at the floor. One side of the elbow
you can see from the crawl space, but the other end is in the sheet
rock wall.

I have one of these, but I can't get it unblocked. It is 4 feet max
to the blockage.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FOQK7TI...a-301953356563

[Seymore4Head[_2_]]

On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 20:50:02 -0500, Meanie wrote:

On 1/16/2018 5:33 PM, Seymore4Head wrote:
I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

Well now one of the water valves is leaking so it seems like a good
time to fix both problems. I called a plumber and told him what I
needed and he said because of all the busted pipes that he could come
out and replace the valves (so I can turn the water back on to the
house), but the drain would have to be later.

So can he replace the water valves and then come back and shoe in the
drain? I guess my question is can the trim piece be put in after
doing the plumbing or does the drain, water, and trim piece have to go
in together.


You're referring to the "trim" piece as the inner box? If so, then yes.
If the entire box and outer trim is one piece, it needs to be inserted
then the final connections of valves and drain. Some boxes have the
inner section (wall inset) then a trim which will snap on the outside
for cosmetic reasons. Either way, the insert (inner box) has to be
installed with the valves and drain.

That is what I was thinking. I think maybe the plumber had plans to
just come out and replace the parts, but he did ask me what type pipes
I had, so maybe he wasn't.

[trader_4]

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 11:43:17 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 17:49:15 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 6:34:34 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 14:45:49 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 5:35:47 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

[Seymore4Head[_2_]]

On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 06:17:10 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 11:43:17 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 17:49:15 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 6:34:34 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 14:45:49 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 5:35:47 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

Well now one of the water valves is leaking so it seems like a good
time to fix both problems. I called a plumber and told him what I
needed and he said because of all the busted pipes that he could come
out and replace the valves (so I can turn the water back on to the
house), but the drain would have to be later.

So can he replace the water valves and then come back and shoe in the
drain? I guess my question is can the trim piece be put in after
doing the plumbing or does the drain, water, and trim piece have to go
in together.

Why do you have to open a wall for a clogged drain? Typically they
can be snaked. Where is it blocked? If it's further down the line
there should be cleanout plugs along the way, eg in the basement, etc.

Why do you have to open a wall for a leaking water valve? If it's
just dripping or leaking at the stem seal, they should be serviceable
with a screwdriver and wrench.

The valves are roughly 45 years old and the bottom of the box is
rusted because of a previous leak.

A few years ago I had a plumber try to snake it out and he said the
drain was blocked.

Is the trim piece something that can go in at any time or does it have
to be done in the rough in?

AFAIK, the "trim piece" is an assembly that has the valves and the drain
opening and it goes in as a unit. If you want to see one, check it out
at HD. The plumber should have told you how far along the drain the
blockage is. If it's 6 ft away, tearing the top of the drain apart
isn't going to solve it. You'd need access near the blockage, assuming
there is no other way to access it. Hard to imagine what could get
down that kind of drain, ie only used for a washer discharge hose,
that could be a blockage that can't be snaked out. If that box is really
rusted out and shot, then sure, changing it would make sense. If it;s
just cosmetic rust and the real problem is the valves are leaking,
you could fix the valves and repaint the box. And unless the blockage
is right there at the end, whatever is going on with that is essentially
separate from replacing the box. Where does that pipe go, ie is it
accessible in a basement, crawl space, etc?

I was thinking the same thing about what could have made it blocked,
but I am sure it is in the elbow at the floor. One side of the elbow
you can see from the crawl space, but the other end is in the sheet
rock wall.

I have one of these, but I can't get it unblocked. It is 4 feet max
to the blockage.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FOQK7TI...a-301953356563

PVC or ABS pipe? Enough room near the elbow to cut it, take out a
section and put in a T with a cleanout? If you have room to do it,
should be pretty easy.

It is not plastic pipe, it's metal.

I will check to see if putting in a T will work. Thanks for the
suggestion.

[trader_4]

On Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 1:40:26 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 06:17:10 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 11:43:17 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 17:49:15 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 6:34:34 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 14:45:49 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 5:35:47 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

Well now one of the water valves is leaking so it seems like a good
time to fix both problems. I called a plumber and told him what I
needed and he said because of all the busted pipes that he could come
out and replace the valves (so I can turn the water back on to the
house), but the drain would have to be later.

So can he replace the water valves and then come back and shoe in the
drain? I guess my question is can the trim piece be put in after
doing the plumbing or does the drain, water, and trim piece have to go
in together.

Why do you have to open a wall for a clogged drain? Typically they
can be snaked. Where is it blocked? If it's further down the line
there should be cleanout plugs along the way, eg in the basement, etc.

Why do you have to open a wall for a leaking water valve? If it's
just dripping or leaking at the stem seal, they should be serviceable
with a screwdriver and wrench.

The valves are roughly 45 years old and the bottom of the box is
rusted because of a previous leak.

A few years ago I had a plumber try to snake it out and he said the
drain was blocked.

Is the trim piece something that can go in at any time or does it have
to be done in the rough in?

AFAIK, the "trim piece" is an assembly that has the valves and the drain
opening and it goes in as a unit. If you want to see one, check it out
at HD. The plumber should have told you how far along the drain the
blockage is. If it's 6 ft away, tearing the top of the drain apart
isn't going to solve it. You'd need access near the blockage, assuming
there is no other way to access it. Hard to imagine what could get
down that kind of drain, ie only used for a washer discharge hose,
that could be a blockage that can't be snaked out. If that box is really
rusted out and shot, then sure, changing it would make sense. If it;s
just cosmetic rust and the real problem is the valves are leaking,
you could fix the valves and repaint the box. And unless the blockage
is right there at the end, whatever is going on with that is essentially
separate from replacing the box. Where does that pipe go, ie is it
accessible in a basement, crawl space, etc?

I was thinking the same thing about what could have made it blocked,
but I am sure it is in the elbow at the floor. One side of the elbow
you can see from the crawl space, but the other end is in the sheet
rock wall.

I have one of these, but I can't get it unblocked. It is 4 feet max
to the blockage.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FOQK7TI...a-301953356563

PVC or ABS pipe? Enough room near the elbow to cut it, take out a
section and put in a T with a cleanout? If you have room to do it,
should be pretty easy.

It is not plastic pipe, it's metal.

I will check to see if putting in a T will work. Thanks for the
suggestion.

For metal you can use a Fernco type coupling, they might even have
a Fernco type product with a cleanout plug as part of it. But I
guess with a Fernco you don't need a cleanout plug. If it happens
again, you can just loosen and slide the coupling for access.

Since it's metal, probably galvanized, next question is how old.
Metal eventually succumbs to corrosion with age, and that may be
part of the problem. Hope not, because then you might have to
replace more and have more problems.

[Don Wiss]

On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 15:07:29 -0800, Oren wrote:

As to the drain problem;, perhaps you can stick a dry/wet vac hose
down the drain and extract what ever is causing the blockage. It may
need a temporary hose modification. Can you run a long piece of
something like bailing wire down the drain, maybe grab what causes the
problem? Or dislodge it...

This is an inexpensive way to look inside:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JERRES6

I bought something similar. As the wire is floppy, I taped it to a
stretched out coat hanger.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

[Seymore4Head[_2_]]

On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 11:07:57 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 1:40:26 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 06:17:10 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 11:43:17 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 17:49:15 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 6:34:34 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 14:45:49 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 5:35:47 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

Well now one of the water valves is leaking so it seems like a good
time to fix both problems. I called a plumber and told him what I
needed and he said because of all the busted pipes that he could come
out and replace the valves (so I can turn the water back on to the
house), but the drain would have to be later.

So can he replace the water valves and then come back and shoe in the
drain? I guess my question is can the trim piece be put in after
doing the plumbing or does the drain, water, and trim piece have to go
in together.

Why do you have to open a wall for a clogged drain? Typically they
can be snaked. Where is it blocked? If it's further down the line
there should be cleanout plugs along the way, eg in the basement, etc.

Why do you have to open a wall for a leaking water valve? If it's
just dripping or leaking at the stem seal, they should be serviceable
with a screwdriver and wrench.

The valves are roughly 45 years old and the bottom of the box is
rusted because of a previous leak.

A few years ago I had a plumber try to snake it out and he said the
drain was blocked.

Is the trim piece something that can go in at any time or does it have
to be done in the rough in?

AFAIK, the "trim piece" is an assembly that has the valves and the drain
opening and it goes in as a unit. If you want to see one, check it out
at HD. The plumber should have told you how far along the drain the
blockage is. If it's 6 ft away, tearing the top of the drain apart
isn't going to solve it. You'd need access near the blockage, assuming
there is no other way to access it. Hard to imagine what could get
down that kind of drain, ie only used for a washer discharge hose,
that could be a blockage that can't be snaked out. If that box is really
rusted out and shot, then sure, changing it would make sense. If it;s
just cosmetic rust and the real problem is the valves are leaking,
you could fix the valves and repaint the box. And unless the blockage
is right there at the end, whatever is going on with that is essentially
separate from replacing the box. Where does that pipe go, ie is it
accessible in a basement, crawl space, etc?

I was thinking the same thing about what could have made it blocked,
but I am sure it is in the elbow at the floor. One side of the elbow
you can see from the crawl space, but the other end is in the sheet
rock wall.

I have one of these, but I can't get it unblocked. It is 4 feet max
to the blockage.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FOQK7TI...a-301953356563

PVC or ABS pipe? Enough room near the elbow to cut it, take out a
section and put in a T with a cleanout? If you have room to do it,
should be pretty easy.

It is not plastic pipe, it's metal.

I will check to see if putting in a T will work. Thanks for the
suggestion.

For metal you can use a Fernco type coupling, they might even have
a Fernco type product with a cleanout plug as part of it. But I
guess with a Fernco you don't need a cleanout plug. If it happens
again, you can just loosen and slide the coupling for access.

Since it's metal, probably galvanized, next question is how old.
Metal eventually succumbs to corrosion with age, and that may be
part of the problem. Hope not, because then you might have to
replace more and have more problems.

I would say roughly 50 years old.

[Seymore4Head[_2_]]

On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 19:56:58 -0500, Don Wiss
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 15:07:29 -0800, Oren wrote:

As to the drain problem;, perhaps you can stick a dry/wet vac hose
down the drain and extract what ever is causing the blockage. It may
need a temporary hose modification. Can you run a long piece of
something like bailing wire down the drain, maybe grab what causes the
problem? Or dislodge it...

This is an inexpensive way to look inside:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JERRES6

I bought something similar. As the wire is floppy, I taped it to a
stretched out coat hanger.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

That looks like a pretty handy gadget, but even if I can tell what is
blocking it, I still have to remove the pipe.

[J.Albert]

On 1/16/18 11:41 PM, Seymore4Head wrote:
I was thinking the same thing about what could have made it blocked,
but I am sure it is in the elbow at the floor. One side of the elbow
you can see from the crawl space, but the other end is in the sheet
rock wall.

Run a video camera down the pipe and see what's there...

[Vic Smith]

On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 20:02:35 -0500, Seymore4Head wrote:

On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 19:56:58 -0500, Don Wiss
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 15:07:29 -0800, Oren wrote:

As to the drain problem;, perhaps you can stick a dry/wet vac hose
down the drain and extract what ever is causing the blockage. It may
need a temporary hose modification. Can you run a long piece of
something like bailing wire down the drain, maybe grab what causes the
problem? Or dislodge it...

This is an inexpensive way to look inside:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JERRES6

I bought something similar. As the wire is floppy, I taped it to a
stretched out coat hanger.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

That looks like a pretty handy gadget, but even if I can tell what is
blocking it, I still have to remove the pipe.

You're not getting past a joint with your snake. Try harder.
Apply some pressure when the snake stops. Sometimes take a while.

[trader_4]

On Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 8:02:12 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 11:07:57 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 1:40:26 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 06:17:10 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 11:43:17 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 17:49:15 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 6:34:34 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 14:45:49 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 5:35:47 PM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:
I have a laundry hookup I assume is similar to this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=laun...8AidC3S1ZZM8M:

The drain is blocked so we have been draining the washer out the
window to keep from opening up the wall to replace the drain section.

Well now one of the water valves is leaking so it seems like a good
time to fix both problems. I called a plumber and told him what I
needed and he said because of all the busted pipes that he could come
out and replace the valves (so I can turn the water back on to the
house), but the drain would have to be later.

So can he replace the water valves and then come back and shoe in the
drain? I guess my question is can the trim piece be put in after
doing the plumbing or does the drain, water, and trim piece have to go
in together.

Why do you have to open a wall for a clogged drain? Typically they
can be snaked. Where is it blocked? If it's further down the line
there should be cleanout plugs along the way, eg in the basement, etc.

Why do you have to open a wall for a leaking water valve? If it's
just dripping or leaking at the stem seal, they should be serviceable
with a screwdriver and wrench.

The valves are roughly 45 years old and the bottom of the box is
rusted because of a previous leak.

A few years ago I had a plumber try to snake it out and he said the
drain was blocked.

Is the trim piece something that can go in at any time or does it have
to be done in the rough in?

AFAIK, the "trim piece" is an assembly that has the valves and the drain
opening and it goes in as a unit. If you want to see one, check it out
at HD. The plumber should have told you how far along the drain the
blockage is. If it's 6 ft away, tearing the top of the drain apart
isn't going to solve it. You'd need access near the blockage, assuming
there is no other way to access it. Hard to imagine what could get
down that kind of drain, ie only used for a washer discharge hose,
that could be a blockage that can't be snaked out. If that box is really
rusted out and shot, then sure, changing it would make sense. If it;s
just cosmetic rust and the real problem is the valves are leaking,
you could fix the valves and repaint the box. And unless the blockage
is right there at the end, whatever is going on with that is essentially
separate from replacing the box. Where does that pipe go, ie is it
accessible in a basement, crawl space, etc?

I was thinking the same thing about what could have made it blocked,
but I am sure it is in the elbow at the floor. One side of the elbow
you can see from the crawl space, but the other end is in the sheet
rock wall.

I have one of these, but I can't get it unblocked. It is 4 feet max
to the blockage.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FOQK7TI...a-301953356563

PVC or ABS pipe? Enough room near the elbow to cut it, take out a
section and put in a T with a cleanout? If you have room to do it,
should be pretty easy.

It is not plastic pipe, it's metal.

I will check to see if putting in a T will work. Thanks for the
suggestion.

For metal you can use a Fernco type coupling, they might even have
a Fernco type product with a cleanout plug as part of it. But I
guess with a Fernco you don't need a cleanout plug. If it happens
again, you can just loosen and slide the coupling for access.

Since it's metal, probably galvanized, next question is how old.
Metal eventually succumbs to corrosion with age, and that may be
part of the problem. Hope not, because then you might have to
replace more and have more problems.

I would say roughly 50 years old.

That's at the age where typically you have problems with steel pipe
failing. It actually corrodes and fails from the inside out, kind
of like artery blockage in people. That could be contributing to
the clog.

[trader_4]

On Thursday, January 18, 2018 at 2:51:19 AM UTC-5, Vic Smith wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 20:02:35 -0500, Seymore4Head wrote:

On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 19:56:58 -0500, Don Wiss
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 15:07:29 -0800, Oren wrote:

As to the drain problem;, perhaps you can stick a dry/wet vac hose
down the drain and extract what ever is causing the blockage. It may
need a temporary hose modification. Can you run a long piece of
something like bailing wire down the drain, maybe grab what causes the
problem? Or dislodge it...

This is an inexpensive way to look inside:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JERRES6

I bought something similar. As the wire is floppy, I taped it to a
stretched out coat hanger.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

That looks like a pretty handy gadget, but even if I can tell what is
blocking it, I still have to remove the pipe.

You're not getting past a joint with your snake. Try harder.
Apply some pressure when the snake stops. Sometimes take a while.

And try to orient the snake when it goes in so that when it gets
to the elbow it's facing in the right direction to be able to bend.

[J.Albert]

On 1/18/18 9:15 AM, trader_4 wrote:
That's at the age where typically you have problems with steel pipe
failing. It actually corrodes and fails from the inside out, kind
of like artery blockage in people. That could be contributing to
the clog.

I had some old "white" (zamac?) metal piping replaced
several years' back. The inside was all "honeycombed" with
builup that was hard as a rock (calcium in the water?)...