[Andy[_35_]]

Found this. What do you think ?

I am wondering how the internal charger would react to seeing a 110 CCA battery
as opposed to the internal 9 Ah battery?


My UPS uses an external battery. It's not of a make that anyone
here would recognize. It's very basic, rather poor in external
finish and internal construction but it does the job and has been
doing it for some 13 years.

I use a small car battery of 35Ah capacity which gives me a good
backup time. I've never tested the backup time to its limit but
it's more than 1 hour when the battery's new. I used the first
battery for about 10 years by which time the backup time had
dropped to about a minute. The replacement cost around $50 and is
still going strong after 3 years.

[philo]

On 1/17/2018 4:32 PM, Andy wrote:
Found this. What do you think ?

I am wondering how the internal charger would react to seeing a 110 CCA battery
as opposed to the internal 9 Ah battery?


My UPS uses an external battery. It's not of a make that anyone
here would recognize. It's very basic, rather poor in external
finish and internal construction but it does the job and has been
doing it for some 13 years.

I use a small car battery of 35Ah capacity which gives me a good
backup time. I've never tested the backup time to its limit but
it's more than 1 hour when the battery's new. I used the first
battery for about 10 years by which time the backup time had
dropped to about a minute. The replacement cost around $50 and is
still going strong after 3 years.


I was an industrial battery service engineer and any battery used inside
your house should be VRLA. Valve regulated lead acid, for safety
reasons. A standard car battery emits hydrogen and could be explosive.

As far as using a battery larger than what the unit was designed for,
you can do that...I do it myself. Just check the voltage periodically as
it should "float" somewhere around 13.5 volts.

If it ever drops to 12.7 or below, you will need to use an external
charger to boost it.

[Andy[_35_]]

On Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 5:48:19 PM UTC-6, philo wrote:
On 1/17/2018 4:32 PM, Andy wrote:
Found this. What do you think ?

I am wondering how the internal charger would react to seeing a 110 CCA battery
as opposed to the internal 9 Ah battery?


My UPS uses an external battery. It's not of a make that anyone
here would recognize. It's very basic, rather poor in external
finish and internal construction but it does the job and has been
doing it for some 13 years.

I use a small car battery of 35Ah capacity which gives me a good
backup time. I've never tested the backup time to its limit but
it's more than 1 hour when the battery's new. I used the first
battery for about 10 years by which time the backup time had
dropped to about a minute. The replacement cost around $50 and is
still going strong after 3 years.


I was an industrial battery service engineer and any battery used inside
your house should be VRLA. Valve regulated lead acid, for safety
reasons. A standard car battery emits hydrogen and could be explosive.

As far as using a battery larger than what the unit was designed for,
you can do that...I do it myself. Just check the voltage periodically as
it should "float" somewhere around 13.5 volts.

If it ever drops to 12.7 or below, you will need to use an external
charger to boost it.

So, the internal charger of the UPS will charger a larger battery with no issues?

I have found that SLA have much shorter lifetime than reg. batteries.

Andy

[[email protected]]

On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 17:48:13 -0600, philo wrote:

On 1/17/2018 4:32 PM, Andy wrote:
Found this. What do you think ?

I am wondering how the internal charger would react to seeing a 110 CCA battery
as opposed to the internal 9 Ah battery?


My UPS uses an external battery. It's not of a make that anyone
here would recognize. It's very basic, rather poor in external
finish and internal construction but it does the job and has been
doing it for some 13 years.

I use a small car battery of 35Ah capacity which gives me a good
backup time. I've never tested the backup time to its limit but
it's more than 1 hour when the battery's new. I used the first
battery for about 10 years by which time the backup time had
dropped to about a minute. The replacement cost around $50 and is
still going strong after 3 years.


I was an industrial battery service engineer and any battery used inside
your house should be VRLA. Valve regulated lead acid, for safety
reasons. A standard car battery emits hydrogen and could be explosive.

As far as using a battery larger than what the unit was designed for,
you can do that...I do it myself. Just check the voltage periodically as
it should "float" somewhere around 13.5 volts.

If it ever drops to 12.7 or below, you will need to use an external
charger to boost it.

Is there any significant difference in the charging of a regular deep
cycle battery and a gel cell like they use in a UPS? I am not sure I
would want to use a regular starting battery since they do not like
being severely discharged.

[philo]

On 01/17/2018 06:22 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 17:48:13 -0600, philo wrote:

On 1/17/2018 4:32 PM, Andy wrote:

I was an industrial battery service engineer and any battery used inside
your house should be VRLA. Valve regulated lead acid, for safety
reasons. A standard car battery emits hydrogen and could be explosive.

As far as using a battery larger than what the unit was designed for,
you can do that...I do it myself. Just check the voltage periodically as
it should "float" somewhere around 13.5 volts.

If it ever drops to 12.7 or below, you will need to use an external
charger to boost it.

Is there any significant difference in the charging of a regular deep
cycle battery and a gel cell like they use in a UPS? I am not sure I
would want to use a regular starting battery since they do not like
being severely discharged.



The automotive maintenance-free batteries, instead of being
lead-antimony are lead-calcium.

The lead-calcium battery uses much less water when being charged, but
the trade off is they cannot be deeply discharged very often.

Ten deep discharges could kill one.


The deep cycle batteries are good for use in golf-carts and trolling
motors for boats. They produce a fail amount of hydrogen and would not
be a good idea to use inside one's house.


A gel cell requires very low current as it approaches full charge ,
quite a bit lower than a deep-cycle battery.

[Uncle Monster[_2_]]

On Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 6:22:28 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 17:48:13 -0600, philo wrote:

On 1/17/2018 4:32 PM, Andy wrote:
Found this. What do you think ?

I am wondering how the internal charger would react to seeing a 110 CCA battery
as opposed to the internal 9 Ah battery?


My UPS uses an external battery. It's not of a make that anyone
here would recognize. It's very basic, rather poor in external
finish and internal construction but it does the job and has been
doing it for some 13 years.

I use a small car battery of 35Ah capacity which gives me a good
backup time. I've never tested the backup time to its limit but
it's more than 1 hour when the battery's new. I used the first
battery for about 10 years by which time the backup time had
dropped to about a minute. The replacement cost around $50 and is
still going strong after 3 years.


I was an industrial battery service engineer and any battery used inside
your house should be VRLA. Valve regulated lead acid, for safety
reasons. A standard car battery emits hydrogen and could be explosive.

As far as using a battery larger than what the unit was designed for,
you can do that...I do it myself. Just check the voltage periodically as
it should "float" somewhere around 13.5 volts.

If it ever drops to 12.7 or below, you will need to use an external
charger to boost it.

Is there any significant difference in the charging of a regular deep
cycle battery and a gel cell like they use in a UPS? I am not sure I
would want to use a regular starting battery since they do not like
being severely discharged.


I've had AGM batteries in my 1kw UPS for 5 years and the batteries have never failed to keep the computers running for a very long time during power outages. I have several 500va UPS units that I installed AGM batteries in and back in 2016 I was home for a month when the power was out for 6 hours one night. I have several 500va units around the house that have LED lamps plugged into them that are on 24/7 and of course stay on when the power fails.. It makes it safer for me to get around the house since it's so difficult for me to reach a light switch because of my wrecked shoulders. I could be sitting at my desk in front of my desktop computer with the TV to one side.The power would go out and the only way I'd know is the relays click and alarms on the UPS units go off. The UPS units are all salvaged and dumpster rescues from when I was still working (able to walk). The batteries would fail and people would toss the UPS units in the trash instead of replacing batteries. I'll never understand why good equipment is thrown away. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Dumpster Monster

[trader_4]

On Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 8:16:49 PM UTC-5, philo wrote:
On 01/17/2018 06:22 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 17:48:13 -0600, philo wrote:

On 1/17/2018 4:32 PM, Andy wrote:

I was an industrial battery service engineer and any battery used inside
your house should be VRLA. Valve regulated lead acid, for safety
reasons. A standard car battery emits hydrogen and could be explosive.

As far as using a battery larger than what the unit was designed for,
you can do that...I do it myself. Just check the voltage periodically as
it should "float" somewhere around 13.5 volts.

If it ever drops to 12.7 or below, you will need to use an external
charger to boost it.

Is there any significant difference in the charging of a regular deep
cycle battery and a gel cell like they use in a UPS? I am not sure I
would want to use a regular starting battery since they do not like
being severely discharged.



The automotive maintenance-free batteries, instead of being
lead-antimony are lead-calcium.

The lead-calcium battery uses much less water when being charged, but
the trade off is they cannot be deeply discharged very often.

Ten deep discharges could kill one.


The deep cycle batteries are good for use in golf-carts and trolling
motors for boats. They produce a fail amount of hydrogen and would not
be a good idea to use inside one's house.


Do you have examples where a single car battery caused an explosion
because it was inside a house, ie where there was enough hydrogen
that built up inside the house? I've heard stories of a car battery
exploding because of the hydrogen confined in it that was set off
by some source, usually someone fiddling with it. But I've never
heard of a room or a house blowing up from hydrogen. I've kept
batteries from my boat, bike, etc in the garage and nothing ever blew up.
And while using a car battery for sump pump or similar isn't a good
idea from the cycling standpoint, I wouldn't be worried about blowing
up the house.





A gel cell requires very low current as it approaches full charge ,
quite a bit lower than a deep-cycle battery.

[Ralph Mowery]

In article ,
says...



I've had AGM batteries in my 1kw UPS for 5 years and the batteries have never failed to keep the computers running for a very long time during power outages. I have several 500va UPS units that I installed AGM batteries in and back in 2016 I was home for a month when the power was out for 6 hours one night. I have several 500va
units around the house that have LED lamps plugged into them that are on 24/7 and of course stay on when the power fails. It makes it safer for me to get around the house since it's so difficult for me to reach a light switch because of my wrecked shoulders. I could be sitting at my desk in front of my desktop computer with the TV
to one side.The power would go out and the only way I'd know is the relays click and alarms on the UPS units go off. The UPS units are all salvaged and dumpster rescues from when I was still working (able to walk). The batteries would fail and people would toss the UPS units in the trash instead of replacing batteries. I'll never
understand why good equipment is thrown away. o_O


The 'good' equipment is often thrown away as replacement batteries are
almost as much if not more expensive than the whole device, especially
during sales times.

Where I worked we had many small motors (under 1 to 2 hp) that had a
gear box on them to reduce te speed. For whatever reason the motor and
gearbox combination was within $ 5 for the combination vers just the
motor. We always bought the whole thing instead of a motor. Labor to
change the motor on the gear box (we did our own labor on this) would
more than eat up that $ 5.

I have a good Nikita battery drill that the batteries went bad. I
bought a new Dewalt one to replace it as it was almost the same price as
new batteries for the old drill.
I forgot what brand it was, but thinking some company had lifetime
battery replacements for their brand of drill. Should have looked into
that.

[philo]

On 01/18/2018 08:00 AM, trader_4 wrote:


The deep cycle batteries are good for use in golf-carts and trolling
motors for boats. They produce a fail amount of hydrogen and would not
be a good idea to use inside one's house.


Do you have examples where a single car battery caused an explosion
because it was inside a house, ie where there was enough hydrogen
that built up inside the house? I've heard stories of a car battery
exploding because of the hydrogen confined in it that was set off
by some source, usually someone fiddling with it. But I've never
heard of a room or a house blowing up from hydrogen. I've kept
batteries from my boat, bike, etc in the garage and nothing ever blew up.
And while using a car battery for sump pump or similar isn't a good
idea from the cycling standpoint, I wouldn't be worried about blowing
up the house.





I have never heard of such happening but I did want to mention the
possibility.

In the 38 years I was on the job, I was usually very careful but one
time I did blow up a battery and it was not a good experience.

[Uncle Monster[_2_]]

On Thursday, January 18, 2018 at 8:49:47 AM UTC-6, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...

I've had AGM batteries in my 1kw UPS for 5 years and the batteries have never failed to keep the computers running for a very long time during power outages. I have several 500va UPS units that I installed AGM batteries in and back in 2016 I was home for a month when the power was out for 6 hours one night. I have several 500va
units around the house that have LED lamps plugged into them that are on 24/7 and of course stay on when the power fails. It makes it safer for me to get around the house since it's so difficult for me to reach a light switch because of my wrecked shoulders. I could be sitting at my desk in front of my desktop computer with the TV
to one side.The power would go out and the only way I'd know is the relays click and alarms on the UPS units go off. The UPS units are all salvaged and dumpster rescues from when I was still working (able to walk). The batteries would fail and people would toss the UPS units in the trash instead of replacing batteries. I'll never
understand why good equipment is thrown away. o_O

The 'good' equipment is often thrown away as replacement batteries are
almost as much if not more expensive than the whole device, especially
during sales times.

Where I worked we had many small motors (under 1 to 2 hp) that had a
gear box on them to reduce te speed. For whatever reason the motor and
gearbox combination was within $ 5 for the combination vers just the
motor. We always bought the whole thing instead of a motor. Labor to
change the motor on the gear box (we did our own labor on this) would
more than eat up that $ 5.

I have a good Nikita battery drill that the batteries went bad. I
bought a new Dewalt one to replace it as it was almost the same price as
new batteries for the old drill.
I forgot what brand it was, but thinking some company had lifetime
battery replacements for their brand of drill. Should have looked into
that.


I think there was a brand sold at Home Depot that had the lifetime batteries but it's been a while since I've been but I seem to recall it was Rigid branded battery powered tools. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Rigid Monster

[[email protected]]

On Thu, 18 Jan 2018 08:57:50 -0600, philo wrote:

On 01/18/2018 08:00 AM, trader_4 wrote:


The deep cycle batteries are good for use in golf-carts and trolling
motors for boats. They produce a fail amount of hydrogen and would not
be a good idea to use inside one's house.


Do you have examples where a single car battery caused an explosion
because it was inside a house, ie where there was enough hydrogen
that built up inside the house? I've heard stories of a car battery
exploding because of the hydrogen confined in it that was set off
by some source, usually someone fiddling with it. But I've never
heard of a room or a house blowing up from hydrogen. I've kept
batteries from my boat, bike, etc in the garage and nothing ever blew up.
And while using a car battery for sump pump or similar isn't a good
idea from the cycling standpoint, I wouldn't be worried about blowing
up the house.





I have never heard of such happening but I did want to mention the
possibility.

In the 38 years I was on the job, I was usually very careful but one
time I did blow up a battery and it was not a good experience.

I blew up a battery on a motorcycle once. The charger clip popped off
while it was charging. They had the same thing happen on a golf cart
at my wife's place when someone dropped a tool on the battery bank
while it was on the charger.
That is why they say you should take the caps off of a battery when
you are manually charging it. The gas will escape fast enough not to
build up.
I really doubt one battery, even a real big one would produce enough
gas to create an explosion hazard in a room. Hydrogen will get up and
out through the smallest cracks in the "tightest" of homes. We did
take care in the UPS rooms around big computer installations but it
was still just fresh air make up on the HVAC in the battery room and a
vent in the ceiling.

[Ralph Mowery]

In article ,
says...


I blew up a battery on a motorcycle once. The charger clip popped off
while it was charging. They had the same thing happen on a golf cart
at my wife's place when someone dropped a tool on the battery bank
while it was on the charger.
That is why they say you should take the caps off of a battery when
you are manually charging it. The gas will escape fast enough not to
build up.
I really doubt one battery, even a real big one would produce enough
gas to create an explosion hazard in a room. Hydrogen will get up and
out through the smallest cracks in the "tightest" of homes. We did
take care in the UPS rooms around big computer installations but it
was still just fresh air make up on the HVAC in the battery room and a
vent in the ceiling.


A friend had a battery explode while driving down the highway. The
alternator/voltage regulator hung up and over charged the battery.
Doubt it was the hydrogen gas that exploded, but a build up and over
pressure of some kind.

[Uncle Monster[_2_]]

On Thursday, January 18, 2018 at 8:49:47 AM UTC-6, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...

I've had AGM batteries in my 1kw UPS for 5 years and the batteries have never failed to keep the computers running for a very long time during power outages. I have several 500va UPS units that I installed AGM batteries in and back in 2016 I was home for a month when the power was out for 6 hours one night. I have several 500va
units around the house that have LED lamps plugged into them that are on 24/7 and of course stay on when the power fails. It makes it safer for me to get around the house since it's so difficult for me to reach a light switch because of my wrecked shoulders. I could be sitting at my desk in front of my desktop computer with the TV
to one side.The power would go out and the only way I'd know is the relays click and alarms on the UPS units go off. The UPS units are all salvaged and dumpster rescues from when I was still working (able to walk). The batteries would fail and people would toss the UPS units in the trash instead of replacing batteries. I'll never
understand why good equipment is thrown away. o_O

The 'good' equipment is often thrown away as replacement batteries are
almost as much if not more expensive than the whole device, especially
during sales times.

Where I worked we had many small motors (under 1 to 2 hp) that had a
gear box on them to reduce te speed. For whatever reason the motor and
gearbox combination was within $ 5 for the combination vers just the
motor. We always bought the whole thing instead of a motor. Labor to
change the motor on the gear box (we did our own labor on this) would
more than eat up that $ 5.

I have a good Nikita battery drill that the batteries went bad. I
bought a new Dewalt one to replace it as it was almost the same price as
new batteries for the old drill.
I forgot what brand it was, but thinking some company had lifetime
battery replacements for their brand of drill. Should have looked into
that.


As I remember, I paid $16.00 ea for the 7-8ah 12volt AGM batteries but I bought a case online. Someplace like APC or Batteries Plus will charge twice as much or more for the same batteries. Since I got the UPS units for free I suppose it was economical for me to upgrade the batteries. I tell folks to pick up the small battery backup units on sale and plug in a table lamp with an LED bulb that can be left on all the time so the house isn't dark during a power outage. I think the 60w equivalent Cree LED bulb I have in one lamp draws 9.5 watts/79ma which will run for a very long time on a small battery backup unit. I have an LED bulb with a candelabra base in a night light plugged into a UPS in my bedroom at home that stays on all the time. The same UPS powers computer equipment in the bedroom including my cable modem. I have all network and computer gear on UPS units so a power hickup doesn't cause any crashes. I've even been awakened in the middle of the night by the alarms on the UPS units all over the house when there's a power outage. It sounds like a bunch of critters in a jungle at dusk. I've thought of opening the units up and disconnecting the piezoelectric sounders. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Noisy Monster

[Clare Snyder]

On Thu, 18 Jan 2018 11:32:07 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...


I blew up a battery on a motorcycle once. The charger clip popped off
while it was charging. They had the same thing happen on a golf cart
at my wife's place when someone dropped a tool on the battery bank
while it was on the charger.
That is why they say you should take the caps off of a battery when
you are manually charging it. The gas will escape fast enough not to
build up.
I really doubt one battery, even a real big one would produce enough
gas to create an explosion hazard in a room. Hydrogen will get up and
out through the smallest cracks in the "tightest" of homes. We did
take care in the UPS rooms around big computer installations but it
was still just fresh air make up on the HVAC in the battery room and a
vent in the ceiling.


A friend had a battery explode while driving down the highway. The
alternator/voltage regulator hung up and over charged the battery.
Doubt it was the hydrogen gas that exploded, but a build up and over
pressure of some kind.


One of my students, right after a class on battery safety,went to
start his '65 Pontiac in the shop and he wore the battery down pretty
bad - went to take it out to put in a different one, positive first-
and hit ground with the wrench. Blew the bottom (fortunately) right
out of the battery.

I was cutting off a clamp on my exhaust with a cutoff wheel
on a handgrinder, about 15 feet from the workbench where my brother
had a motorcycle batery on charge - KaPOWW!!!. Pretty well
disintegrated the battery.

One afternoon I went to start the old Massey Harris 44 on the farm.
First try the starter just buzzed a bit, so I tried again - blew the
one end right out of the battery.
I think it had a bad internal connection that sparked.

I've seen a few others let go too.

[Ralph Mowery]

In article ,
says...



As I remember, I paid $16.00 ea for the 7-8ah 12volt AGM batteries but I bought a case online. Someplace like APC or Batteries Plus will charge twice as much or more for the same batteries. Since I got the UPS units for free I suppose it was economical for me to upgrade the batteries. I tell folks to pick up the small battery
backup units on sale and plug in a table lamp with an LED bulb that can be left on all the time so the house isn't dark during a power outage. I think the 60w equivalent Cree LED bulb I have in one lamp draws 9.5 watts/79ma which will run for a very long time on a small battery backup unit. I have an LED bulb with a candelabra base
in a night light plugged into a UPS in my bedroom at home that stays on all the time. The same UPS powers computer equipment in the bedroom including my cable modem. I have all network and computer gear on UPS units so a power hickup doesn't cause any crashes. I've even been awakened in the middle of the night by the alarms on the
UPS units all over the house when there's a power outage. It sounds like a bunch of critters in a jungle at dusk. I've thought of opening the units up and disconnecting the piezoelectric sounders. ^_^


Good idea on the lamp and a LED bulb.
Too bad there is not an option where the UPS does not output a voltage
unless the power does go off.

I have removed the beepers on my UPS. Too much noise when the power
does go off and if at night, I want to sleep and not be wakened evenif
the powe does go off.
They should make that an option on all the UPS.

[Wade Garrett]

On 1/18/18 3:52 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...



As I remember, I paid $16.00 ea for the 7-8ah 12volt AGM batteries but I bought a case online. Someplace like APC or Batteries Plus will charge twice as much or more for the same batteries. Since I got the UPS units for free I suppose it was economical for me to upgrade the batteries. I tell folks to pick up the small battery
backup units on sale and plug in a table lamp with an LED bulb that can be left on all the time so the house isn't dark during a power outage. I think the 60w equivalent Cree LED bulb I have in one lamp draws 9.5 watts/79ma which will run for a very long time on a small battery backup unit. I have an LED bulb with a candelabra base
in a night light plugged into a UPS in my bedroom at home that stays on all the time. The same UPS powers computer equipment in the bedroom including my cable modem. I have all network and computer gear on UPS units so a power hickup doesn't cause any crashes. I've even been awakened in the middle of the night by the alarms on the
UPS units all over the house when there's a power outage. It sounds like a bunch of critters in a jungle at dusk. I've thought of opening the units up and disconnecting the piezoelectric sounders. ^_^


Good idea on the lamp and a LED bulb.
Too bad there is not an option where the UPS does not output a voltage
unless the power does go off.

I have removed the beepers on my UPS. Too much noise when the power
does go off and if at night, I want to sleep and not be wakened evenif
the powe does go off.
They should make that an option on all the UPS.


I'd love to kill the beepers in all my mostly medium capacity APCs.

How did you do it?

[Ralph Mowery]

In article , says...

I have removed the beepers on my UPS. Too much noise when the power
does go off and if at night, I want to sleep and not be wakened evenif
the powe does go off.
They should make that an option on all the UPS.


I'd love to kill the beepers in all my mostly medium capacity APCs.

How did you do it?

I opened up the case and unsoldered the beeper or beeper speaker from
the board and removed it. Be sure to disconnect the battery first.

If no soldering iron, I would just crush it with some big pliers.

[Bob[_87_]]

On 01/18/2018 04:11 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:
I'd love to kill the beepers in all my mostly medium capacity APCs.

How did you do it?

I put a wad of duct seal over mine.

[[email protected]]

On Thu, 18 Jan 2018 15:52:21 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

I have removed the beepers on my UPS. Too much noise when the power
does go off and if at night, I want to sleep and not be wakened evenif
the powe does go off.
They should make that an option on all the UPS.


It doesn't really help me. My dog hears the inverter start up and
barks at it.

[[email protected]]

On Thu, 18 Jan 2018 16:16:34 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article , says...

I have removed the beepers on my UPS. Too much noise when the power
does go off and if at night, I want to sleep and not be wakened evenif
the powe does go off.
They should make that an option on all the UPS.


I'd love to kill the beepers in all my mostly medium capacity APCs.

How did you do it?

I opened up the case and unsoldered the beeper or beeper speaker from
the board and removed it. Be sure to disconnect the battery first.

If no soldering iron, I would just crush it with some big pliers.


Slip a razor knife under it and pop it off.

[Wade Garrett]

On 1/18/18 4:16 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says...

I have removed the beepers on my UPS. Too much noise when the power
does go off and if at night, I want to sleep and not be wakened evenif
the powe does go off.
They should make that an option on all the UPS.


I'd love to kill the beepers in all my mostly medium capacity APCs.

How did you do it?

I opened up the case and unsoldered the beeper or beeper speaker from
the board and removed it. Be sure to disconnect the battery first.

If no soldering iron, I would just crush it with some big pliers.


I've got an old soldering iron but back when I used it, I was known as
the king of cold connections.

I think your pliers- or Bob's duct seal- are the way to go for me.

--
To know what people really think, pay regard to what they do, rather
than what they say.
- René Descartes

[Mark Lloyd[_12_]]

On 01/18/2018 02:52 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

[snip]

Good idea on the lamp and a LED bulb.
Too bad there is not an option where the UPS does not output a voltage
unless the power does go off.

I have an old UPS that won't put out enough power for a computer, but it
does work for some LED lights.

BTW, I call those "Lilly's lights", after a small cat. She used to sleep
in the hall.

I have removed the beepers on my UPS. Too much noise when the power
does go off and if at night, I want to sleep and not be wakened evenif
the powe does go off.
They should make that an option on all the UPS.

Mine has a way to silence the beeper, but that works only DURING a power
outage, and next outage it's already forgotten to be silent.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"This is not a dress rehearsal. This is the only life you will ever have
and this is the only world you will ever know. Seize the day."

[Clare Snyder]

On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 10:06:53 -0600, Mark Lloyd
wrote:

On 01/18/2018 02:52 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

[snip]

Good idea on the lamp and a LED bulb.
Too bad there is not an option where the UPS does not output a voltage
unless the power does go off.

I have an old UPS that won't put out enough power for a computer, but it
does work for some LED lights.

BTW, I call those "Lilly's lights", after a small cat. She used to sleep
in the hall.

I have removed the beepers on my UPS. Too much noise when the power
does go off and if at night, I want to sleep and not be wakened evenif
the powe does go off.
They should make that an option on all the UPS.

Mine has a way to silence the beeper, but that works only DURING a power
outage, and next outage it's already forgotten to be silent.


Right now I've got more UPS units around than I know what to do with.
A couple 3kva inits, a couple 2 KVA units, and a couple 1kva units.
2 of the 2kva, I belioeve, have external battery packs. 2 of the 3kva
units use 20 amp twist-lock plugs.
Those 3kva units are HEAVY MUTHAS!!!

Then I'm running both PVRs on 500va units, my computer on an old
Powerware Prestige 1000 on-line unit, my wifes on another prestige,
and the internet/voip on an ancient Best Fortress 600 line interactive
unit. It's about 21 years old and I believe on it's 3rd battery.

When the power goes out or we get a brownout we get chirps coming
from everywhwere

I have a third Prestige sittiing in the cabinet behind me on standby
(an EXT without the external pack), along with a powerware 3105 and a
powerware 5105

All the rest - the big ones - are rack mounts except for one APC. They
run from 24 to 96 volt battery packs, depending on the model.

[Uncle Monster[_2_]]

On Thursday, January 18, 2018 at 2:52:33 PM UTC-6, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...

As I remember, I paid $16.00 ea for the 7-8ah 12volt AGM batteries but I bought a case online. Someplace like APC or Batteries Plus will charge twice as much or more for the same batteries. Since I got the UPS units for free I suppose it was economical for me to upgrade the batteries. I tell folks to pick up the small battery
backup units on sale and plug in a table lamp with an LED bulb that can be left on all the time so the house isn't dark during a power outage. I think the 60w equivalent Cree LED bulb I have in one lamp draws 9.5 watts/79ma which will run for a very long time on a small battery backup unit. I have an LED bulb with a candelabra base
in a night light plugged into a UPS in my bedroom at home that stays on all the time. The same UPS powers computer equipment in the bedroom including my cable modem. I have all network and computer gear on UPS units so a power hickup doesn't cause any crashes. I've even been awakened in the middle of the night by the alarms on the
UPS units all over the house when there's a power outage. It sounds like a bunch of critters in a jungle at dusk. I've thought of opening the units up and disconnecting the piezoelectric sounders. ^_^

Good idea on the lamp and a LED bulb.
Too bad there is not an option where the UPS does not output a voltage
unless the power does go off.

I have removed the beepers on my UPS. Too much noise when the power
does go off and if at night, I want to sleep and not be wakened evenif
the powe does go off.
They should make that an option on all the UPS.


I did have some wall mount emergency lights that came out of an office building where I was doing some work. The units used incandescent bulbs but could easily have been converted to LED lamps. I think all the new emergency lights have LED lamps in them now and are quite inexpensive. Heck, I installed some 2x4 fluorescent fixtures for a customer that had a special ballast and battery pack that would keep a pair of tubes lit when the power failed. Now the dang 2x4 fixtures have LED tubes in them and battery packs. I never got a chance to install any of them before I had to retire. I'm astonished at all the LED lighting that's available now. I remember being amazed at the dim little red LED lights that showed up on the market all those years ago and when the surplus electronic suppliers started selling them so I bought a bagful for all my electronic projects. I was so excited when LED's showed up in different colors and remember how manufacturers were having such a problem developing a blue LED. Now a lot of the electronic gear I have uses a blue LED as a power indicator. My darn LED flashlights are so incredibly bright it makes me wonder how I got by with incandescent bulb flashlights. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Lit Monster

[[email protected]]

On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 14:42:42 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:


I did have some wall mount emergency lights that came out of an office building where I was doing some work. The units used incandescent bulbs but could easily have been converted to LED lamps. I think all the new emergency lights have LED lamps in them now and are quite inexpensive. Heck, I installed some 2x4 fluorescent fixtures for a customer that had a special ballast and battery pack that would keep a pair of tubes lit when the power failed. Now the dang 2x4 fixtures have LED tubes in them and battery packs. I never got a chance to install any of them before I had to retire. I'm astonished at all the LED lighting that's available now. I remember being amazed at the dim little red LED lights that showed up on the market all those years ago and when the surplus electronic suppliers started selling them so I bought a bagful for all my electronic projects. I was so excited when LED's showed up in different colors and remember how manufacturers were having such a problem developing
a
blue LED. Now a lot of the electronic gear I have uses a blue LED as a power indicator. My darn LED flashlights are so incredibly bright it makes me wonder how I got by with incandescent bulb flashlights. ^_^

I just threw a couple of those away. I found out in Irma that the
batteries were toast and it was not worth buying new ones. I do think
I will get some LED lights tho. I am just going to plug them into a
UPS somewhere.

[Uncle Monster[_2_]]

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 6:47:52 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 14:42:42 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

I did have some wall mount emergency lights that came out of an office building where I was doing some work. The units used incandescent bulbs but could easily have been converted to LED lamps. I think all the new emergency lights have LED lamps in them now and are quite inexpensive. Heck, I installed some 2x4 fluorescent fixtures for a customer that had a special ballast and battery pack that would keep a pair of tubes lit when the power failed. Now the dang 2x4 fixtures have LED tubes in them and battery packs. I never got a chance to install any of them before I had to retire. I'm astonished at all the LED lighting that's available now. I remember being amazed at the dim little red LED lights that showed up on the market all those years ago and when the surplus electronic suppliers started selling them so I bought a bagful for all my electronic projects. I was so excited when LED's showed up in different colors and remember how manufacturers were having such a problem developing
a
blue LED. Now a lot of the electronic gear I have uses a blue LED as a power indicator. My darn LED flashlights are so incredibly bright it makes me wonder how I got by with incandescent bulb flashlights. ^_^

I just threw a couple of those away. I found out in Irma that the
batteries were toast and it was not worth buying new ones. I do think
I will get some LED lights tho. I am just going to plug them into a
UPS somewhere.


If you're referring to the wall mount emergency lights, I happened to do a search and discovered that the new LED versions are incredibly inexpensive. I was quite surprised. I think the emergency lights must meet a 90-minute requirement by code(correct me if I'm wrong) and it seems to me that it's a lot easier to attain that goal with LED lights due to smaller less expensive batteries. I may have to get some when I return home. I can put a cord on them and plug them into a wall outlet. ^_^

https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-Lig.../dp/B00EKYQ2FY

[8~{} Uncle Lighted Monster

[[email protected]]

On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 17:27:22 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 6:47:52 PM UTC-6, wrote:

I just threw a couple of those away. I found out in Irma that the
batteries were toast and it was not worth buying new ones. I do think
I will get some LED lights tho. I am just going to plug them into a
UPS somewhere.


If you're referring to the wall mount emergency lights, I happened to do a search and discovered that the new LED versions are incredibly inexpensive. I was quite surprised. I think the emergency lights must meet a 90-minute requirement by code(correct me if I'm wrong) and it seems to me that it's a lot easier to attain that goal with LED lights due to smaller less expensive batteries. I may have to get some when I return home. I can put a cord on them and plug them into a wall outlet. ^_^

https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-Lig.../dp/B00EKYQ2FY


I am not sure I really need that much light these days. I had the
emergency lights when the kids were here. We are pretty good in the
dark ;-)
I am more thinking about just putting my motion light in the main room
on a UPS with LED bulbs and calling it a day

[Uncle Monster[_2_]]

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 8:48:08 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 17:27:22 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 6:47:52 PM UTC-6, wrote:

I just threw a couple of those away. I found out in Irma that the
batteries were toast and it was not worth buying new ones. I do think
I will get some LED lights tho. I am just going to plug them into a
UPS somewhere.


If you're referring to the wall mount emergency lights, I happened to do a search and discovered that the new LED versions are incredibly inexpensive. I was quite surprised. I think the emergency lights must meet a 90-minute requirement by code(correct me if I'm wrong) and it seems to me that it's a lot easier to attain that goal with LED lights due to smaller less expensive batteries. I may have to get some when I return home. I can put a cord on them and plug them into a wall outlet. ^_^

https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-Lig.../dp/B00EKYQ2FY

I am not sure I really need that much light these days. I had the
emergency lights when the kids were here. We are pretty good in the
dark ;-)
I am more thinking about just putting my motion light in the main room
on a UPS with LED bulbs and calling it a day


So you're a vampire? It's my understanding that most motion detecting light fixtures won't work with LED bulbs because the switching circuit was designed for incandescent bulbs which act like low-value resistors in the switching circuit. I suppose it wouldn't be too difficult to modify one of the fixtures to use LED bulbs. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Bloodless Monster

[Clare Snyder]

On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 19:12:27 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 8:48:08 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 17:27:22 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 6:47:52 PM UTC-6, wrote:

I just threw a couple of those away. I found out in Irma that the
batteries were toast and it was not worth buying new ones. I do think
I will get some LED lights tho. I am just going to plug them into a
UPS somewhere.


If you're referring to the wall mount emergency lights, I happened to do a search and discovered that the new LED versions are incredibly inexpensive. I was quite surprised. I think the emergency lights must meet a 90-minute requirement by code(correct me if I'm wrong) and it seems to me that it's a lot easier to attain that goal with LED lights due to smaller less expensive batteries. I may have to get some when I return home. I can put a cord on them and plug them into a wall outlet. ^_^

https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-Lig.../dp/B00EKYQ2FY

I am not sure I really need that much light these days. I had the
emergency lights when the kids were here. We are pretty good in the
dark ;-)
I am more thinking about just putting my motion light in the main room
on a UPS with LED bulbs and calling it a day


So you're a vampire? It's my understanding that most motion detecting light fixtures won't work with LED bulbs because the switching circuit was designed for incandescent bulbs which act like low-value resistors in the switching circuit. I suppose it wouldn't be too difficult to modify one of the fixtures to use LED bulbs. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Bloodless Monster


I have 2 that came with LEDs - solar powered. CXheap. And unlike the
120 volt halogen ones I've purchased over the years, they actually
WORK

[[email protected]]

On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 19:12:27 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 8:48:08 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 17:27:22 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 6:47:52 PM UTC-6, wrote:

I just threw a couple of those away. I found out in Irma that the
batteries were toast and it was not worth buying new ones. I do think
I will get some LED lights tho. I am just going to plug them into a
UPS somewhere.


If you're referring to the wall mount emergency lights, I happened to do a search and discovered that the new LED versions are incredibly inexpensive. I was quite surprised. I think the emergency lights must meet a 90-minute requirement by code(correct me if I'm wrong) and it seems to me that it's a lot easier to attain that goal with LED lights due to smaller less expensive batteries. I may have to get some when I return home. I can put a cord on them and plug them into a wall outlet. ^_^

https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-Lig.../dp/B00EKYQ2FY

I am not sure I really need that much light these days. I had the
emergency lights when the kids were here. We are pretty good in the
dark ;-)
I am more thinking about just putting my motion light in the main room
on a UPS with LED bulbs and calling it a day


So you're a vampire? It's my understanding that most motion detecting light fixtures won't work with LED bulbs because the switching circuit was designed for incandescent bulbs which act like low-value resistors in the switching circuit. I suppose it wouldn't be too difficult to modify one of the fixtures to use LED bulbs. ^_^

You just need to be sure they are the relay type. The old Heath Zenith
ones work fine. These are not the kind that fit in a device box and
power through the load, they go in a 1/2" K/O with 3 wires.

[Uncle Monster[_2_]]

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 9:46:07 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 19:12:27 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 8:48:08 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 17:27:22 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 6:47:52 PM UTC-6, wrote:

I just threw a couple of those away. I found out in Irma that the
batteries were toast and it was not worth buying new ones. I do think
I will get some LED lights tho. I am just going to plug them into a
UPS somewhere.


If you're referring to the wall mount emergency lights, I happened to do a search and discovered that the new LED versions are incredibly inexpensive. I was quite surprised. I think the emergency lights must meet a 90-minute requirement by code(correct me if I'm wrong) and it seems to me that it's a lot easier to attain that goal with LED lights due to smaller less expensive batteries. I may have to get some when I return home. I can put a cord on them and plug them into a wall outlet. ^_^

https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-Lig.../dp/B00EKYQ2FY

I am not sure I really need that much light these days. I had the
emergency lights when the kids were here. We are pretty good in the
dark ;-)
I am more thinking about just putting my motion light in the main room
on a UPS with LED bulbs and calling it a day


So you're a vampire? It's my understanding that most motion detecting light fixtures won't work with LED bulbs because the switching circuit was designed for incandescent bulbs which act like low-value resistors in the switching circuit. I suppose it wouldn't be too difficult to modify one of the fixtures to use LED bulbs. ^_^

You just need to be sure they are the relay type. The old Heath Zenith
ones work fine. These are not the kind that fit in a device box and
power through the load, they go in a 1/2" K/O with 3 wires.


The triac switched ones are those that I found to be a problem. I have modified some of them years ago(pre LED bulb days) because I needed more current capacity and was tripping a contactor to set off multiple floodlights and 120vac alarm horns. The guy I set one up for said he often found blood a cloth fragments on the barbed wire fence the next morning when he checked the electric counter I added to the setup. Fraking with miscreants is quite entertaining. Adding video surveillance cameras and a VCR increased the entertainment value. I wish I had some of the old tapes and a player so I could put them on YouTube but heck, I haven't seen a VCR in years. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Security Monster

[mike[_22_]]

On 1/19/2018 5:27 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 6:47:52 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 14:42:42 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

I did have some wall mount emergency lights that came out of an office building where I was doing some work. The units used incandescent bulbs but could easily have been converted to LED lamps. I think all the new emergency lights have LED lamps in them now and are quite inexpensive. Heck, I installed some 2x4 fluorescent fixtures for a customer that had a special ballast and battery pack that would keep a pair of tubes lit when the power failed. Now the dang 2x4 fixtures have LED tubes in them and battery packs. I never got a chance to install any of them before I had to retire. I'm astonished at all the LED lighting that's available now. I remember being amazed at the dim little red LED lights that showed up on the market all those years ago and when the surplus electronic suppliers started selling them so I bought a bagful for all my electronic projects. I was so excited when LED's showed up in different colors and remember how manufacturers were having such a problem develop
ing
a
blue LED. Now a lot of the electronic gear I have uses a blue LED as a power indicator. My darn LED flashlights are so incredibly bright it makes me wonder how I got by with incandescent bulb flashlights. ^_^

I just threw a couple of those away. I found out in Irma that the
batteries were toast and it was not worth buying new ones. I do think
I will get some LED lights tho. I am just going to plug them into a
UPS somewhere.


If you're referring to the wall mount emergency lights, I happened to do a search and discovered that the new LED versions are incredibly inexpensive. I was quite surprised. I think the emergency lights must meet a 90-minute requirement by code(correct me if I'm wrong) and it seems to me that it's a lot easier to attain that goal with LED lights due to smaller less expensive batteries. I may have to get some when I return home. I can put a cord on them and plug them into a wall outlet. ^_^

https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-Lig.../dp/B00EKYQ2FY

[8~{} Uncle Lighted Monster

There are many types of motion sensing lights that run on 3-4 AA cells.
The bright ones don't run very long, but if you pick a single led that's
just bright enough to let you get safely down the hall, they last a long
time.
The one I have draws 18mA when it's on, so it will run a long time
if it only runs when you pass it.
I put a 18650 battery in one, but it's more hassle to charge than
swapping 3 eneloops. I just use it during an outage...almost never.

There are LED lights in MR16 format designed for track lighting on
12VAC. They have internal regulators and run just fine on DC.
One I have runs fine from about 8VDC to 21VDC. I was a little worried
about the high end, but it's been running fine as a replacement
lamp in a Ryobi light with Ryobi one+ 18V 10-cell lithium battery.
The math suggests that it should run about 20 hours and is bright
enough to light up a room. The swivel head lets you point it almost
anywhere. Of course, this only makes sense if
you already have lithium tool batteries sitting around doing nothing.
Might as well store them on a light. NiMH is a bad choice because
it will always be dead when you need it...unless it's LSD and hasn't
been abused by a cordless power tool.

I find that two strategically placed battery powered motion
sensor lights will allow me to get anywhere in the house to pick up
a flashlight to use during a power outage. The places I most want
an emergency light don't have convenient access to AC power.

Older UPS backup systems waste a LOT of energy 24-7 sitting there
doing basically nothing. Last one I measured was 10W. Worth it on a
computer for short power outages,
but a waste on emergency lighting that you rarely use. Better to use
12V lights and switch them manually.

Many of the older motion sensors won't work with LED lights.
If you put a 4W incandescent night light in parallel, many will work
just fine.
It raises the energy consumption 40% when it's on, but overall
consumes a lot less averaged over time. Don't forget that the mere
presence of some automated light switch can waste a watt or more 24-7.

[Uncle Monster[_2_]]

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 10:41:21 PM UTC-6, mike wrote:
On 1/19/2018 5:27 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 6:47:52 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 14:42:42 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

I did have some wall mount emergency lights that came out of an office building where I was doing some work. The units used incandescent bulbs but could easily have been converted to LED lamps. I think all the new emergency lights have LED lamps in them now and are quite inexpensive. Heck, I installed some 2x4 fluorescent fixtures for a customer that had a special ballast and battery pack that would keep a pair of tubes lit when the power failed. Now the dang 2x4 fixtures have LED tubes in them and battery packs. I never got a chance to install any of them before I had to retire. I'm astonished at all the LED lighting that's available now. I remember being amazed at the dim little red LED lights that showed up on the market all those years ago and when the surplus electronic suppliers started selling them so I bought a bagful for all my electronic projects. I was so excited when LED's showed up in different colors and remember how manufacturers were having such a problem develop
ing
a
blue LED. Now a lot of the electronic gear I have uses a blue LED as a power indicator. My darn LED flashlights are so incredibly bright it makes me wonder how I got by with incandescent bulb flashlights. ^_^

I just threw a couple of those away. I found out in Irma that the
batteries were toast and it was not worth buying new ones. I do think
I will get some LED lights tho. I am just going to plug them into a
UPS somewhere.


If you're referring to the wall mount emergency lights, I happened to do a search and discovered that the new LED versions are incredibly inexpensive. I was quite surprised. I think the emergency lights must meet a 90-minute requirement by code(correct me if I'm wrong) and it seems to me that it's a lot easier to attain that goal with LED lights due to smaller less expensive batteries. I may have to get some when I return home. I can put a cord on them and plug them into a wall outlet. ^_^

https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-Lig.../dp/B00EKYQ2FY

[8~{} Uncle Lighted Monster

There are many types of motion sensing lights that run on 3-4 AA cells.
The bright ones don't run very long, but if you pick a single led that's
just bright enough to let you get safely down the hall, they last a long
time.
The one I have draws 18mA when it's on, so it will run a long time
if it only runs when you pass it.
I put a 18650 battery in one, but it's more hassle to charge than
swapping 3 eneloops. I just use it during an outage...almost never.

There are LED lights in MR16 format designed for track lighting on
12VAC. They have internal regulators and run just fine on DC.
One I have runs fine from about 8VDC to 21VDC. I was a little worried
about the high end, but it's been running fine as a replacement
lamp in a Ryobi light with Ryobi one+ 18V 10-cell lithium battery.
The math suggests that it should run about 20 hours and is bright
enough to light up a room. The swivel head lets you point it almost
anywhere. Of course, this only makes sense if
you already have lithium tool batteries sitting around doing nothing.
Might as well store them on a light. NiMH is a bad choice because
it will always be dead when you need it...unless it's LSD and hasn't
been abused by a cordless power tool.

I find that two strategically placed battery powered motion
sensor lights will allow me to get anywhere in the house to pick up
a flashlight to use during a power outage. The places I most want
an emergency light don't have convenient access to AC power.

Older UPS backup systems waste a LOT of energy 24-7 sitting there
doing basically nothing. Last one I measured was 10W. Worth it on a
computer for short power outages,
but a waste on emergency lighting that you rarely use. Better to use
12V lights and switch them manually.

Many of the older motion sensors won't work with LED lights.
If you put a 4W incandescent night light in parallel, many will work
just fine.
It raises the energy consumption 40% when it's on, but overall
consumes a lot less averaged over time. Don't forget that the mere
presence of some automated light switch can waste a watt or more 24-7.


I have the lights at home because I'm wheelchair bound and it's difficult for me to reach anything because of my wrecked shoulders so I have lights in several rooms of the house that stay on regardless. I have some lamps that stay on which have CFL bulbs in them. In the office, an LED desk lamp stays on and it's plugged into the UPS for the computers. There's a 7w candelabra base incandescent bulb in a small table lamp in the living room. A 12w CFL in a lamp on a shelf in the kitchen. I've got a 4' fluorescent fixture over the kitchen sink that I left on but the tube is shot so there's the small lamp on the shelf. I have a candelabra base LED bulb in a night light in the bedroom that's plugged into the UPS for the computers in there. I have enough light so I can get around safely but I do always have a flashlight handy that I use to better see something I'm tinkering with. I like light. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Actinic Monster

[T[_6_]]

On 01/19/2018 09:24 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:

I have the lights at home because I'm wheelchair bound and it's difficult for me to reach anything because of my wrecked shoulders so I have lights in several rooms of the house that stay on regardless. I have some lamps that stay on which have CFL bulbs in them. In the office, an LED desk lamp stays on and it's plugged into the UPS for the computers. There's a 7w candelabra base incandescent bulb in a small table lamp in the living room. A 12w CFL in a lamp on a shelf in the kitchen. I've got a 4' fluorescent fixture over the kitchen sink that I left on but the tube is shot so there's the small lamp on the shelf. I have a candelabra base LED bulb in a night light in the bedroom that's plugged into the UPS for the computers in there. I have enough light so I can get around safely but I do always have a flashlight handy that I use to better see something I'm tinkering with. I like light. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Actinic Monster



https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...=1T7Z71L8NB1ND

[Uncle Monster[_2_]]

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 11:43:01 PM UTC-6, T wrote:
On 01/19/2018 09:24 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:

I have the lights at home because I'm wheelchair bound and it's difficult for me to reach anything because of my wrecked shoulders so I have lights in several rooms of the house that stay on regardless. I have some lamps that stay on which have CFL bulbs in them. In the office, an LED desk lamp stays on and it's plugged into the UPS for the computers. There's a 7w candelabra base incandescent bulb in a small table lamp in the living room. A 12w CFL in a lamp on a shelf in the kitchen. I've got a 4' fluorescent fixture over the kitchen sink that I left on but the tube is shot so there's the small lamp on the shelf. I have a candelabra base LED bulb in a night light in the bedroom that's plugged into the UPS for the computers in there. I have enough light so I can get around safely but I do always have a flashlight handy that I use to better see something I'm tinkering with. I like light. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Actinic Monster


https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...=1T7Z71L8NB1ND


I've extremely arthritic hands so I don't do a lot of clapping. Now if there was a sound activated switch called the "Farter", that sort of device would work far better for me because I can pass gas on command. I can even play the musical scales Ã* la posterior sphincter. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Poot Monster

[T[_6_]]

On 01/19/2018 10:50 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 11:43:01 PM UTC-6, T wrote:
On 01/19/2018 09:24 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:

I have the lights at home because I'm wheelchair bound and it's difficult for me to reach anything because of my wrecked shoulders so I have lights in several rooms of the house that stay on regardless. I have some lamps that stay on which have CFL bulbs in them. In the office, an LED desk lamp stays on and it's plugged into the UPS for the computers. There's a 7w candelabra base incandescent bulb in a small table lamp in the living room. A 12w CFL in a lamp on a shelf in the kitchen. I've got a 4' fluorescent fixture over the kitchen sink that I left on but the tube is shot so there's the small lamp on the shelf. I have a candelabra base LED bulb in a night light in the bedroom that's plugged into the UPS for the computers in there. I have enough light so I can get around safely but I do always have a flashlight handy that I use to better see something I'm tinkering with. I like light. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Actinic Monster


https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...=1T7Z71L8NB1ND


I've extremely arthritic hands so I don't do a lot of clapping. Now if there was a sound activated switch called the "Farter", that sort of device would work far better for me because I can pass gas on command. I can even play the musical scales Ã* la posterior sphincter. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Poot Monster


The lights just came on! No one light a match! RUN
FOR YOUR LIFE! IT'S TOO LATE FOR ME !!!


I looked by the way. I could not find one.

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 17 Jan 2018 19:16:41 -0600, philo
wrote:

On 01/17/2018 06:22 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 17:48:13 -0600, philo wrote:

On 1/17/2018 4:32 PM, Andy wrote:

I was an industrial battery service engineer and any battery used inside
your house should be VRLA. Valve regulated lead acid, for safety
reasons. A standard car battery emits hydrogen and could be explosive.

As far as using a battery larger than what the unit was designed for,
you can do that...I do it myself. Just check the voltage periodically as
it should "float" somewhere around 13.5 volts.

If it ever drops to 12.7 or below, you will need to use an external
charger to boost it.

Is there any significant difference in the charging of a regular deep
cycle battery and a gel cell like they use in a UPS? I am not sure I
would want to use a regular starting battery since they do not like
being severely discharged.

On my first UPS, when the first battery wore out, I broke the thin
plastic ribs out of the case and put in a battery, of the same type, but
twice as big.


The automotive maintenance-free batteries, instead of being
lead-antimony are lead-calcium.

The lead-calcium battery uses much less water when being charged, but
the trade off is they cannot be deeply discharged very often.

Ten deep discharges could kill one.

So if you're a shlub like me, you'd be better off with a
non-maintenance-free battery. Do they still sell those?


The deep cycle batteries are good for use in golf-carts and trolling
motors for boats. They produce a fail amount of hydrogen and would not
be a good idea to use inside one's house.


A gel cell requires very low current as it approaches full charge ,
quite a bit lower than a deep-cycle battery.

[Clare Snyder]

On Sat, 20 Jan 2018 10:44:21 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 17 Jan 2018 19:16:41 -0600, philo
wrote:

On 01/17/2018 06:22 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jan 2018 17:48:13 -0600, philo wrote:

On 1/17/2018 4:32 PM, Andy wrote:

I was an industrial battery service engineer and any battery used inside
your house should be VRLA. Valve regulated lead acid, for safety
reasons. A standard car battery emits hydrogen and could be explosive.

As far as using a battery larger than what the unit was designed for,
you can do that...I do it myself. Just check the voltage periodically as
it should "float" somewhere around 13.5 volts.

If it ever drops to 12.7 or below, you will need to use an external
charger to boost it.

Is there any significant difference in the charging of a regular deep
cycle battery and a gel cell like they use in a UPS? I am not sure I
would want to use a regular starting battery since they do not like
being severely discharged.

On my first UPS, when the first battery wore out, I broke the thin
plastic ribs out of the case and put in a battery, of the same type, but
twice as big.


The same case is used on the APC 350 and 500 units - with a rib cast
in to keep the 3.5Ah battery from rattling around in the case of the
350. Cut out the rib and a 7 or 8 ah battery fits. I've done that a
lot, as the 7-8 ah battery is easier to find and about the same price.

The automotive maintenance-free batteries, instead of being
lead-antimony are lead-calcium.

The lead-calcium battery uses much less water when being charged, but
the trade off is they cannot be deeply discharged very often.

Ten deep discharges could kill one.

So if you're a shlub like me, you'd be better off with a
non-maintenance-free battery. Do they still sell those?


The deep cycle batteries are good for use in golf-carts and trolling
motors for boats. They produce a fail amount of hydrogen and would not
be a good idea to use inside one's house.


A gel cell requires very low current as it approaches full charge ,
quite a bit lower than a deep-cycle battery.


Get an "AGM" battery