All the directions I've seen for installing a storm window on an
existing window have to do with screwing the flange into a wooden
frame. My frames are aluminum and very narrow; any screw going
through the aluminum would probably interfere with the window track.
The exterior wall is brick. How would a storm window be installed in
this situation?

Thanks

On Jun 21, 3:17 pm, Greg Esres wrote:
All the directions I've seen for installing a storm window on an
existing window have to do with screwing the flange into a wooden
frame. My frames are aluminum and very narrow; any screw going
through the aluminum would probably interfere with the window track.
The exterior wall is brick. How would a storm window be installed in
this situation?

Thanks

You should be able to use metal screws. It's hard for me to imagine
that they are so large to interfere with install since the screws
would only need to penetrate the frame slightly. It would leave an
ugly hole in the frame when the storm is removed, a cosmetic isuue.

Better, contact the manufacturer of the window if possible. If your
window are designed for storms they will know and may have them for
sale. If you live down south this it very possible that your windows
were not made with storms in mind. Why do you feel you need storm
windows. What is the weather like in your location? Replacement
windows are not so difficut a project. Don't rule it out.

On Jun 21, 4:17 pm, Greg Esres wrote:
All the directions I've seen for installing a storm window on an
existing window have to do with screwing the flange into a wooden
frame. My frames are aluminum and very narrow; any screw going
through the aluminum would probably interfere with the window track.
The exterior wall is brick. How would a storm window be installed in
this situation?

Thanks

is their any room next to the window with wood on it before it hits
brick or is it brick to window.

if you have brick to window I hope you have newer thermal windows. my
nieghbor just replace his with this type of set up.
try real shutters that close and latch. hence (storm) windows.

I have a similiar set up. and there is a alumium frame extension for
the window you don't see that goes un
der the wood siding then there's the brick. and the stormwindow goes
right out side of the aluminum window frame and is screwed in.

good luck.

Lawrence wrote:

Better, contact the manufacturer of the window if possible. If your
window are designed for storms they will know and may have them for
sale. If you live down south this it very possible that your windows
were not made with storms in mind. Why do you feel you need storm
windows. What is the weather like in your location? Replacement
windows are not so difficut a project. Don't rule it out.


Hi Lawrence, thanks for your reply. I live in Tennessee. I don't
have a tremendous need for storm windows for their intended purpose,
but I'm considering them as part of an overall noise reduction system.

I didn't realize that some windows were made for storms and other were
not. That's not addressed in the literature I've read, but I have
taken your suggestion and emailed the manufacturer. I may need to
send them a photograph before they know what I'm talking about.

Thanks.

I didn't realize that some windows were made for storms and other were
not. That's not addressed in the literature I've read, but I have
taken your suggestion and emailed the manufacturer. I may need to
send them a photograph before they know what I'm talking about.

Most modern windows will not be designed with storms in mind. Some of
these are made for the southern market. Tennessee is pretty far south
but for sure gets some cold weather. In other cases, double or
triple paned windows are already so efficient that no storms are
needed.

In some cases a storm window can be fitted into the location where
your window screens reside. Typically sreens are swapped for storms
seasonally. You local hardware (Ace) may be able to build this type
of window for you with the same thickness frame as your existing
screens.

I live in Minnesota where a lot of older homes have the storm
windows. Storm widows here are only used on the old-fashioned windows
that were designed with them. Folk with modern windows have no need
for storm windows and do not use them. Your best choice for noise
reduction will be new windows.

New quality replacement windows will reduce sound tremendously. We
are a block away from railroad and the new windows when locked block
the majority of noise. I cannot believe what a difference the new
windows make. When we do the rest next year I will be so happy.

On Jun 22, 8:05 am, Lawrence wrote:
I didn't realize that some windows were made for storms and other were
not. That's not addressed in the literature I've read, but I have
taken your suggestion and emailed the manufacturer. I may need to
send them a photograph before they know what I'm talking about.

Most modern windows will not be designed with storms in mind. Some of
these are made for the southern market. Tennessee is pretty far south
but for sure gets some cold weather. In other cases, double or
triple paned windows are already so efficient that no storms are
needed.

In some cases a storm window can be fitted into the location where
your window screens reside. Typically sreens are swapped for storms
seasonally. You local hardware (Ace) may be able to build this type
of window for you with the same thickness frame as your existing
screens.

I live in Minnesota where a lot of older homes have the storm
windows. Storm widows here are only used on the old-fashioned windows
that were designed with them. Folk with modern windows have no need
for storm windows and do not use them. Your best choice for noise
reduction will be new windows.

On Jun 21, 8:38 pm, wrote:

is their any room next to the window with wood on it before it hits
brick or is it brick to window.

Brick to brick. I might be able to screw some wood strips into the
brick to provide a mount for the windows.

Thanks

On Jun 22, 7:05 am, Lawrence wrote:

Your best choice for noise reduction will be new windows.

Lot more money, though. And some of these windows are double-width.
I'm already making some interior solid shutters that *may* provide the
sound insulation I need, but I was hoping for a quicker, easier fix.

Thank you.

On Jun 21, 8:38 pm, wrote:

Brick to brick.

Sorry, make that "brick to window."

On Jun 22, 11:05 am, Greg Esres wrote:
On Jun 22, 7:05 am, Lawrence wrote:

Your best choice for noise reduction will be new windows.

Lot more money, though. And some of these windows are double-width.
I'm already making some interior solid shutters that *may* provide the
sound insulation I need, but I was hoping for a quicker, easier fix.

Thank you.

Yea, money is always a problem. Interior shutters are a very good
idea but make sure you keep track of what yu spend on them since the
issue is money. If you plan to shutter the windows from the inside
and block out the noise as well as the air and the light then you may
as well board them over completely giving you security as well, haha.

Seriously, I do that with my windows each summer on the south side of
the house. I use one inch of foil backed foam board cut to fit inside
the window frame. Don't know about the noise though since the A/C
makes so much noise. Definitely helps keep the kichen dark and cool.
I won't do this with all my window though. It would be too much like
a cave.